I really enjoy your videos. Me, being a new turner, it’s very important to get as much education as possible. I thank you again for always being so very informative.
Mr.Waldt, I haven't touched a lathe since Jr. High school wood shop. Been bucket listing one ever since. I'm 63 now and just purchased a Jet 1221 VS. While waiting for tools, I'm pretty well set up. Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks Lol.I watch your videos FREQUENTLY, and find you informative, talented, and a very good teacher, one of the best if not THE BEST! Because of this, when you say, " This is only my way" I say as a beginner it's the ONLY way, until I advance. You sir, are a GEM. Thanks.
Hello Mike, The thing that you so effectively showed was how control of the tool became more difficult with the cutting depth. So often, 3x, 5x recording speeds smooth out the judder and as a beginner, I was really left wondering, "What's goin' on 'ere then", as I struggled beyond the sensible in real time. Seeing someone else facing the same difficulty must help others understand the general limits of tools and how to use them to best effect. Good show. Regards, Glenn. :-)
Great job Mike got a new turner showing the basic tools and I put him on your Chanel if he doesn't find his way between the pair of us,its not for him😉👍👍
Thanks Mike It is always a help to review the basics. You mentioned using a draw bar on the quill. On my lathe using a draw bar on the quill would prevent the hand wheel from moving the quill in and out. I use a draw bar on the head stock.
I agree with what you say Dan, Ihave seen them with a bearing to allow rotation of the hand wheel while keeping the Jacob's chuck secure. Someone actually drilled through the quill and the taper on the chuck so a locking bar could be slotted in!
Thanks for another great video Mike. I have been away from my lathe for so long I may needs some of these tips when I get back to it I just haven’t had any free time. The next best thing is to watch you. Even that had to be done in 3 segments 😂 Take Care my friend Tim
Hi Mike, Another 10 out of 10 video. I stayed away from hollowing as my first attempt to about 4", although successful, was not a comfortable "turn" due to the vibration. Last weekend I used my Vermarc Hollowing System for the first time and hollowed to 8 1/2" with relative ease. Your advice is, as always, on point. Cheers, Huw
That 19 minutes went by quickly Mike! Loving the introduction and explanation of some of the basic tools, thanks 👍. I watched a few turners and wondered why they didn't use a Jacobs chuck and fostner bit to remove the centre first.
Excellent, as usual, Mike. May I contribute a couple of points? Using the tailstock Jacobs chucks is a rare occasion when I don a glove. Now and then torque can cause the chuck to spin on its Morse taper, and, if one is unlucky, can tear the soft web between thumb and forefinger. Having a threaded drill bit is actually dangerous, and even twist drills can pull forward and ruin the work.(Take extra care when drilling nylon).As Forstner bits are usually for drilling shallow holes, and can become very hot, I lubricate with Vaseline, which is turned away. I find keeping them sharp troublesome, so sometimes, with great care, resort to a spade bit with plain centre point. A lot of torque is seen then, and they remove a lot of wood fast, with plenty of room for the chips. Such bits stay cool and can be advantageous when going to full depth in round bottomed hollows.( Maximum 19mm bit for me). On deep hollowing you mention going on to specialised tooling because of the overhang. This can involve quite an outlay; but there is an economic intermediate stage. A flat platform tool rest can be used inside boxes, and,of course, S shaped rests for bowls. As another alternative, I built a heavy duty carbide tipped tool based on 16mm round bar and 15mm round tip. It is 600mm long , with counterbalancing rear screw fitting for extra handle if necessary. It gives good control, though so far I have not exceeded 120mm depth. I hope you don't mind these observations. Bernard.
I just bought the Hope grip and the first bowl gauge - so Thanks for showing the possibilities / limitations. I guess the dedicated hollowing tools will be next? 😉
Hi Mike, I've just picked up on your CZcams channel and being new to wood turning watching your videos are a brilliant masterclass! So many thanks for what you share. I was wondering what the grind angle is on the bowl gouge you use for this video, I have been given a bowl gouge of the same dimensions which looks completely off at the tip, so I would pleased to be given the advice as to the correct grind angle for a beginner. I understand that there are all sorts of angles with every increasing wing sizes, but I want to grind to a good angle for starters as I don't want to get 'catches' from the onset whilst learning. I have bought myself a grinding jig to go with my new Record power 6inch grinder. Many Thanks, Cheers, Marc
Thanks for a splendid video series mike. I’ve been binge watching and making copious notes. You have a really good way of teaching and I’m grateful for your attention to detail. Are you planning a ukiws this year?
Really enjoying your basics series revisited. I am an absolute newbie , I went to my local wood turners workshop for the first time yesterday. I am intrigued by the handle on your bowl gauge & spindle gauge. Are they home made or available commercially?
Another exceptionally timely video. It's good to show the limits of traditional tools because it can get quite scary when you hang to far over the rest. For new turners its great for them to see that you can hollow out without a Chip Muncher or a Mega Deep Digger! I'll add to our website www.nlwa.org.uk.
Brilliant as always and thanks for hitting the hollowing process. I am about to start going towards hollowing and purchased a Sorby hollowing tool, the next thing is to figure out how to treat the inside of the hollow form. I have heard various methods from painting to slowly coating the inside with various sealers, any suggestions?
Thank you, it depends on the form you turn in my view. If you can see all the inside, your suggestions are fine, even seal an wax, oil, anything really. However if the opening is small, no need to bother any further than a fingers length plus a bit ... but that's my view. Also consider spraying the inside black, I've found that effective too.
Thanks Mike. This was exactly what I was looking for. I’m a beginner working with a beginner set of 6 Sorby gouges. The 3/8 bowl gouge comes with a grind that is close to what is called a traditional grind. I dont have any grinding jigs. I’d like to do more boxes but struggle with the spindle gouge when going deeper that 1 inch. What would be a better/optimal grind for the 3/8 bowl gouge?
Hi Samu, everyone has their own preferences, personally I prefer a swept back grind on my bowl gouges. I have to add that I use a jig to achieve the grind, and am not able to free hand sharpen, though I have tried in the past, with terrible results! 🙂
Great video as always. Quick question, the depth gauge you utilize to measure interior depth, what is it specifically called or referred to? Is it a machinist's tool? Like the wide side wings & would like to pick one up. Thanks...
Mike, even after securing the blank on to the headstock, while carving it seems to be going off center. Can you please tell me what I might be doing wrong. Appreciate your help.
Every touch you make on the "end", its' force gets multiplied by the length of the blank into a levering motion that will push the end of the blank off-center. The longer blank, the less force you need to apply to the end of it, right? Make sure you can use slight touches and still get a carving (not scraping). If the wood is a bit soft, this lever-motion can deform the wood in the jaws and move the end out of center too.
Great timing. I'm just looking at the blanks on the shelf that are due for turning into vases so some really great tips here. Thank you for that. As a newer turner your videos are always informative and honest. PS: Do you have any spare makers stickers.? If I sent an SAE (I'm in Spain) would I be able to get one to put next to my English Woods one (that being my first). I'm just starting to make a little wall although I do have a way to go to match yours.
@@MikeWaldt Mike, you are a gentleman. Thanks for that. Send to: Plaza Del Rojo 9, Los Canovas, Fuente Alamo, Murcia, 30338 Spain. Once again, thank you very much in advance.
Mike, my wife and I would like to wish you and your family and friends a safe time and virus free life from the COVID-19 crisis. Here's something for you and your CZcams audience... What if you thought of it as the Jews consider the Sabbath- the most sacred of times? Cease from travel. Cease from buying and selling. Give up, just for now, on trying to make the world different than it is. Sing. Pray. Touch only those to whom you commit your life. Center down. And when your body has become still, reach out with your heart. Know that we are connected in ways that are terrifying and beautiful. (You could hardly deny it now.) Know that our lives are in one another’s hands. (Surely, that has come clear.) Do not reach out your hands. Reach out your heart. Reach out your words. Reach out all the tendrils of compassion that move, invisibly, where we cannot touch. Promise this world your love- for better, or for worse, in sickness and in health, so long as we all shall live. "Stay socially distant but spiritually connected"...Andrew Cuomo, Governor of New York in a Press Conference this morning.
@@MikeWaldt Trying to hollow too deep of a bowl, without an understanding of the basics. It is only 4 1/2 inches deep, but apparently I should start with a shallower bowl.
@@MikeWaldt I mean, the gouge cuts against the grain at 3:39. That's why you feel vibrations. But when you cut from the center to outside - it goes smoother.
Excellent demonstration and information. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful Dennis and thanks for watching.
I really enjoy your videos. Me, being a new turner, it’s very important to get as much education as possible. I thank you again for always being so very informative.
Thank you Keith your kind words are very much appreciated.
Great video just what I was searching for. Answered my questions. Thanks
Glad you found the video useful.
Mr.Waldt, I haven't touched a lathe since Jr. High school wood shop. Been bucket listing one ever since. I'm 63 now and just purchased a Jet 1221 VS. While waiting for tools, I'm pretty well set up. Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks Lol.I watch your videos FREQUENTLY, and find you informative, talented, and a very good teacher, one of the best if not THE BEST! Because of this, when you say, " This is only my way" I say as a beginner it's the ONLY way, until I advance. You sir, are a GEM. Thanks.
Hi Mike....great video...informative and concise....like this comment...All the best.....Andy
Thanks Andy always appreciated mate.
Cheers
Mike
Hello Mike, The thing that you so effectively showed was how control of the tool became more difficult with the cutting depth. So often, 3x, 5x recording speeds smooth out the judder and as a beginner, I was really left wondering, "What's goin' on 'ere then", as I struggled beyond the sensible in real time. Seeing someone else facing the same difficulty must help others understand the general limits of tools and how to use them to best effect. Good show. Regards, Glenn. :-)
Thanks Glenn really pleased to hear you found the video of some use.
Another top video Mike and as always, you give away top information!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍😎
Thank you Alan very much appreciated mate.
Great information as always, Mike! You are probably the best woodturning “teacher” on CZcams, my friend. Great video, Mike!!
Safe turning,
.....Gord
Thank you Gord, you my friend are too kind, and I really appreciate you saying that considering the high regard I hold you in.
Cheers
Mike
Thanks for continuing with the instructional videos. I find them immensely helpful.
Glad your enjoying them Chuck, and thanks for watching.
Love the " beginners Guide Revisited " :-) looking forward to the next video, Thanks Mike ..
Thanks again much appreciated.
Hi Mike thank you again your video has been a great help
Regards
Steve UK London
Hi Steve very pleased to hear you find them of some use mate.
Another great tutorial Mike.
Thank you Alf much appreciated.
Thanks mike always very helpful. Cheers from MT.
Thank you MT much appreciated.
Very good solid down to earth and advice Mike. Thanks for sharing your videos as always
Kind Regards
Col
Thank you Col much appreciated.
Nice one Mike. Wish I'd seen this yesterday. Just struggled to hollow a 7 inch coffee mug and failed. Keep up the series, they are great. Cheers
t
Thanks Owen much appreciated. Stay safe mate.
Once again a fantastic session Thanks
Thanks Charles very much appreciated.
Thanks again for the revisited series.
Glad you enjoy them Mark snd thanks for watching.
Great job Mike got a new turner showing the basic tools and I put him on your Chanel if he doesn't find his way between the pair of us,its not for him😉👍👍
Thanks Barry and lmao 😉
These are great vids Mike . Thanks for taking the time to make them take care .
Glad your enjoying them Glen and thanks for watching.
Thanks Mike It is always a help to review the basics. You mentioned using a draw bar on the quill. On my lathe using a draw bar on the quill would prevent the hand wheel from moving the quill in and out. I use a draw bar on the head stock.
I agree with what you say Dan, Ihave seen them with a bearing to allow rotation of the hand wheel while keeping the Jacob's chuck secure. Someone actually drilled through the quill and the taper on the chuck so a locking bar could be slotted in!
Thanks for another great video Mike.
I have been away from my lathe for so long I may needs some of these tips when I get back to it I just haven’t had any free time. The next best thing is to watch you.
Even that had to be done in 3 segments 😂
Take Care my friend
Tim
Glad you find some use in them Timothy and thanks for watching.
Hi Mike, Another 10 out of 10 video. I stayed away from hollowing as my first attempt to about 4", although successful, was not a comfortable "turn" due to the vibration. Last weekend I used my Vermarc Hollowing System for the first time and hollowed to 8 1/2" with relative ease. Your advice is, as always, on point. Cheers, Huw
Thank you once again Huw, I really appreciate your kind and supportive words my friend.
That 19 minutes went by quickly Mike! Loving the introduction and explanation of some of the basic tools, thanks 👍. I watched a few turners and wondered why they didn't use a Jacobs chuck and fostner bit to remove the centre first.
Lol ... thank you Jonathon.
Thank you Mike as always excellent information.
Thank you very much Edward.
Good advice from you Mike, excellent video mate!
Cheers, Bram
Thank you Bram much appreciated mate.
Cheers
Mike
Excellent, as usual, Mike. May I contribute a couple of points? Using the tailstock Jacobs chucks is a rare occasion when I don a glove. Now and then torque can cause the chuck to spin on its Morse taper, and, if one is unlucky, can tear the soft web between thumb and forefinger. Having a threaded drill bit is actually dangerous, and even twist drills can pull forward and ruin the work.(Take extra care when drilling nylon).As Forstner bits are usually for drilling shallow holes, and can become very hot, I lubricate with Vaseline, which is turned away. I find keeping them sharp troublesome, so sometimes, with great care, resort to a spade bit with plain centre point. A lot of torque is seen then, and they remove a lot of wood fast, with plenty of room for the chips. Such bits stay cool and can be advantageous when going to full depth in round bottomed hollows.( Maximum 19mm bit for me).
On deep hollowing you mention going on to specialised tooling because of the overhang. This can involve quite an outlay; but there is an economic intermediate stage. A flat platform tool rest can be used inside boxes, and,of course, S shaped rests for bowls. As another alternative, I built a heavy duty carbide tipped tool based on 16mm round bar and 15mm round tip. It is 600mm long , with counterbalancing rear screw fitting for extra handle if necessary. It gives good control, though so far I have not exceeded 120mm depth. I hope you don't mind these observations. Bernard.
Thank you Bernard.
Thanks also for the very valid points you make too, much appreciated my friend.
Thanks mike always very helpful
Your very welcome and thank you Dave.
Thanks Mike. Take care
Thank YOU Val always great to hear from you.
Thank you
Glad you found the video of some interest.
Thanks for sharing🙏
Thank YOU for watching.
Mike as usual I learned some things and will try them.
Glad you found the video of some use Lucien.
Just to add it is the 3/8th bowl gouge. Thank you.
Thanks Mike, a good basics video again. Would you consider following up with basic hollowing tutorial with tool selection and rests. Thanks again.
Thank you Raymond. I will certainly think about doing one sometime in the future 🙂
nice video, been playing with this myself quite a bit :D
Thank you.
Well done presentation.
Thank you Stuart.
Very useful video.
Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for watching.
I recommend the easy wood tools easy hollowers. I really like them!
I'm sure they are great Adrian.
Very nice tips
Thank you.
I just bought the Hope grip and the first bowl gauge - so Thanks for showing the possibilities / limitations. I guess the dedicated hollowing tools will be next? 😉
Certainly worth thinking about if deeper hollowing is something you want to do.
@@MikeWaldt oh with 'next' I meant you, doing a demonstration?
Hi Mike, I've just picked up on your CZcams channel and being new to wood turning watching your videos are a brilliant masterclass! So many thanks for what you share. I was wondering what the grind angle is on the bowl gouge you use for this video, I have been given a bowl gouge of the same dimensions which looks completely off at the tip, so I would pleased to be given the advice as to the correct grind angle for a beginner. I understand that there are all sorts of angles with every increasing wing sizes, but I want to grind to a good angle for starters as I don't want to get 'catches' from the onset whilst learning. I have bought myself a grinding jig to go with my new Record power 6inch grinder. Many Thanks, Cheers, Marc
Thanks for a splendid video series mike. I’ve been binge watching and making copious notes. You have a really good way of teaching and I’m grateful for your attention to detail. Are you planning a ukiws this year?
Thank you very much Gordon much appreciated. I don't think t there will be another UKIWS I'm afraid.
Really enjoying your basics series revisited. I am an absolute newbie , I went to my local wood turners workshop for the first time yesterday. I am intrigued by the handle on your bowl gauge & spindle gauge. Are they home made or available commercially?
Thank you Peter, the handles are from Simon Hope of Hopewoodturning.
Another exceptionally timely video. It's good to show the limits of traditional tools because it can get quite scary when you hang to far over the rest. For new turners its great for them to see that you can hollow out without a Chip Muncher or a Mega Deep Digger! I'll add to our website www.nlwa.org.uk.
Thank you very much Graham much appreciated mate, as is your adding it to your website.
Take care
Mike
Brilliant as always and thanks for hitting the hollowing process. I am about to start going towards hollowing and purchased a Sorby hollowing tool, the next thing is to figure out how to treat the inside of the hollow form. I have heard various methods from painting to slowly coating the inside with various sealers, any suggestions?
Thank you, it depends on the form you turn in my view. If you can see all the inside, your suggestions are fine, even seal an wax, oil, anything really. However if the opening is small, no need to bother any further than a fingers length plus a bit ... but that's my view. Also consider spraying the inside black, I've found that effective too.
@@MikeWaldt Thanks for the advice and please keep making the videos, so very helpful.
This is end grain hollowing, which is a bit specialised.
Just a different technique needed.
Thanks Mike. This was exactly what I was looking for. I’m a beginner working with a beginner set of 6 Sorby gouges. The 3/8 bowl gouge comes with a grind that is close to what is called a traditional grind. I dont have any grinding jigs. I’d like to do more boxes but struggle with the spindle gouge when going deeper that 1 inch. What would be a better/optimal grind for the 3/8 bowl gouge?
Hi Samu, everyone has their own preferences, personally I prefer a swept back grind on my bowl gouges. I have to add that I use a jig to achieve the grind, and am not able to free hand sharpen, though I have tried in the past, with terrible results! 🙂
Mike, the ability to reach these depths requires specific grinds. Will you share or show the gouge tips so the grind is visible?
I will try and remember in a future video Carson.
Great video as always. Quick question, the depth gauge you utilize to measure interior depth, what is it specifically called or referred to? Is it a machinist's tool? Like the wide side wings & would like to pick one up. Thanks...
Thank you.
The depth gauge I'd called just that, and this one was kindly given to me by a subscriber a while back 🙂
Thanks, I will ferret about to try & find one from a current vendor. Happy Turning & Keep your vids coming. They are invaluable learning aids.
Mike, even after securing the blank on to the headstock, while carving it seems to be going off center. Can you please tell me what I might be doing wrong. Appreciate your help.
Every touch you make on the "end", its' force gets multiplied by the length of the blank into a levering motion that will push the end of the blank off-center. The longer blank, the less force you need to apply to the end of it, right? Make sure you can use slight touches and still get a carving (not scraping).
If the wood is a bit soft, this lever-motion can deform the wood in the jaws and move the end out of center too.
I think what Peter says is spot on 🙂
Great timing. I'm just looking at the blanks on the shelf that are due for turning into vases so some really great tips here. Thank you for that. As a newer turner your videos are always informative and honest.
PS: Do you have any spare makers stickers.? If I sent an SAE (I'm in Spain) would I be able to get one to put next to my English Woods one (that being my first). I'm just starting to make a little wall although I do have a way to go to match yours.
Hi John and thanks for your kind words and support. Just send me your address and I'll get a couple out to you.
@@MikeWaldt Mike, you are a gentleman. Thanks for that. Send to: Plaza Del Rojo 9, Los Canovas, Fuente Alamo, Murcia, 30338 Spain. Once again, thank you very much in advance.
Mike, my wife and I would like to wish you and your family and friends a safe time and virus free life from the COVID-19 crisis. Here's something for you and your CZcams audience...
What if you thought of it
as the Jews consider the Sabbath-
the most sacred of times?
Cease from travel.
Cease from buying and selling.
Give up, just for now,
on trying to make the world
different than it is.
Sing. Pray. Touch only those
to whom you commit your life.
Center down.
And when your body has become still,
reach out with your heart.
Know that we are connected
in ways that are terrifying and beautiful.
(You could hardly deny it now.)
Know that our lives
are in one another’s hands.
(Surely, that has come clear.)
Do not reach out your hands.
Reach out your heart.
Reach out your words.
Reach out all the tendrils
of compassion that move, invisibly,
where we cannot touch.
Promise this world your love-
for better, or for worse,
in sickness and in health,
so long as we all shall live.
"Stay socially distant but spiritually connected"...Andrew Cuomo, Governor of New York in a Press Conference this morning.
Thanks for that ... stay safe my friend.
Mike, I have been looking for a Jacobs church on an MT2 arbor with a thread for a drawbar but cannot find one. Do you know where I can get one?
I can only think of Google Mike. They do seem more readily available over the pond (US)
The spindel gouge is it same thing the finger nails . Scuse my english.
The spindle gouge is the tool name, and the fingernail is the type of grind. Thanks for watching.
I'm expecting too much out of my lathe.
What are you trying to do Dennis?
@@MikeWaldt Trying to hollow too deep of a bowl, without an understanding of the basics. It is only 4 1/2 inches deep, but apparently I should start with a shallower bowl.
It's not the tool for the job! then why use it?
Just showing what tools are capable of ... the tool that you use is down to personal preference. Thanks for watching.
3:39 - it goes against the grain, right?
I don't follow your meaning Alexander.
@@MikeWaldt I mean, the gouge cuts against the grain at 3:39. That's why you feel vibrations. But when you cut from the center to outside - it goes smoother.