Haha ive been watching your channel the day or so binge watching video after video , good work man awesome to see mini rwd ,i just ordered one last week but im in nz and shipping takes a whole month haha buy then should have plan set also going to convert to 1/24 scale to suit rx-7 model i built
Hey man! Thanks again for this vid, I'm binge watching literally everyday and learning alot from you. Quick question though, do you know if upgrading to metal steering cups/knuckles is better than plastic? Because mine keeps on breaking, it's the 2nd time already in a month, and ordering each time I break the part is kind of frustrating. (I accidentally keep on breaking it when removing the link rods, I don't know a better/efficient way than converting to metal. What do you think?
Yes, the knuckle is a good upgrade to improve the durability. However make sure the ball heads are OK and don't have thick collar otherwise they will get stuck and won't have full movement for the suspension. You might have to grind the underside of the ball heads down in that case.
Personally since it's small I would reduce Ackerman to hold angle longer at higher speeds, I repositioned the hole where the steering rods connect to the wheel hub, try to have positive toe into parallel toe at full lock. Just my opinion
I have an old Tamiya Fox (renamed NovaFox) its a rwd buggy 1:10. It has an awesome oldschool brushed motor(revolution losi) im thinking of coverting it to a drift car. Its really fun with drift tires. So i think if i add gyro and replace servo and all but engine it will glide. BUT it wont be original 1984. Should it do it or leave alone?
That's a tough question. Personally I'd leave it be because it's a vintage Tamiya and I have a soft spot for that. Then it'll get something like 3Racing Sakura D5 for RWD drift.
It's from afrc 5g servo or powerhd 5g. However the angle is not enough and in the end I made my own extension to a straight horn. Check out part 3 and 4 for more info.
My friend,try to have more parallel steering and more linear throttle control.my advice is dont put too much caster as it will upset the balance and your difficulty will increase.my humble opinion
Thanks. This car has been modded to it's maximum setting in my next videos. I don't know if you've seen it yet, here's my final update. czcams.com/video/CUZIcDH5P6g/video.html Thanks for the suggestion about caster by the way. I also find excessive caster makes it harder to drive. I also dialed down the caster on my DRZ.
I've seen people doing it. I guess it's for rolling effect but I don't know how effective it is for controlling the car. I do monoshock on the front so I can have more clearance for steering. The rear doesn't need that.
I had an idea last night for a third bearing system that would hold the stock cut driveshaft in a bearing cup that is screwed into stock motor sper plate
2 bearings would do if the shaft is short enough. You only need the front and the back of the shaft and it got that already. I just cut my screw really long.
Hey, is there any other mods to make more steering angle in the k989? I want to keep it 4wd but wanting more steering angle. I changed the ballhead position from the servo horn. Is there any other ways?
is it possible to increase the steering angle without doing all this, is it that just by cutting the part of the cell and moving the pivot point of the ball joints this could be enough?
Unfortunately, no. Simply moving pivot point isn't enough for RWD drifting. Even this is still not enough and you can see in my 3rd update how to make enough steering angle. However you don't have to move the servo if you don't want, just make the horn long enough and it should be fine.
I love these vids you did on the 1:28. I would love it if you could please please do some on the Wltoys A242 1:24.... I'm brand new to RC but definitely have the bug. Thanks for taking the time and making the videos for us.
It's still far off. This one only slides without spinning. Too violent with the control and there's no way to recover unlike Atomic DRZ where I'm in control most of the time.
GYC300 probably works. You can try but I don't know how fast it responses. As for steering modification, there are 5 steps. Starting from 1. doing up the servo horn with 2 holes at the top. 2. Cut the back off front bulk head. 3. Mod the steering knuckle. 4. making monoshock. and 5. stick the gyro down.
How do how get the front to grip like that? No matter what more weight or less weight and steering input the car just goes straight, ive got a ton of angle and everything just can't get the front to grip
If no matter what you do the front just won't grip then you'll have to check the tyres contact and possibly put M2 screw into the lower arm to adjust the ride height and in turn, tyre contact.
@@BeaversHobby thanks Ill give it a try! The ride height in the front is pretty low would it help if i rased it, im running a concrete in the garage maybe the front of the chassis is dragging on the uneven surface 🤔
@@haydnholder7090 It's really hard to run this car on a rough surface already so getting RWD drift to work is going to be difficult. Anyway, check the front contact is the main thing. You'll need it to have tyre contact when you turn. The ball cap on the steering could be too tight and it pulls the arm up too so check that as well.
@@BeaversHobby sweet thanks bro! Just installed a losi micro front shock and cut those chassis tabs off way more clearance in the front now an alot smoother up an down movement, what surfaces would you recommend to be the best to run it?
You can get the same one in AFRC bit.ly/38sCLr2 . However you will find out in part 3 of this series that it's not enough for RWD drifting and Ackerman + toe angle weren't good so I had to make my own extension czcams.com/video/KXmDLnptEgU/video.html .
It might get some bad reading and the wheels will shake back and forth when it counter steer. The wheel shake can come from something else too but we'll always check if the gyro is properly mounted first.
Hi beav! I ordered 2 mini q ball diff for the WLTOYS k989. Do i need special cups or the atomic universal shafts to install them? Can you post a link of the items i will need to get the ball diff in? You have been so helpful with these cars:) thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Yes, you'll need long swing shafts. Atomic's are constantly out of stock most of the time so I also give you the link for RC-Aurora www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1029&products_id=13988 ppm-rcracing.com/products/Wide-Crooked-Angle-Universal-Shaft-for-Mini%252dZ-%286061-Black-x-4-Pcs-Long%29.html
I use Surpass 1410 brushless motor and XC-10A ESC in this project. However this setup is obsolete now and I highly recommend Surpass brushless combo. www.aliexpress.com/item/4000900570121.html
Hi beaver😊👍, I am just wondering....... is there a particular reason that not many people seem to do the mono shock mod on the rear of these cars? Thank you
I think because the wheels are not really independent to each other so the handling will be compromised. The main reason to do this is to move the shock away from steering.
@@________GHOST________ It's usually bundled with a servo. Last time I got it with the AFRC D1802MG servo. Still, this is not the best horn to do this modification. You're better off with a custom horn like I did here (it's update 3). czcams.com/video/KXmDLnptEgU/video.html
Tamiya Mini 4WD parts. You can also find them from other make like 3 Racing like this. www.3racing-parts.com/tamiya-mini-4wd-2mm-spacer-set-black-3racing-m4wd01bk-p-90069636.html
@@BeaversHobby dude you are literally a god send. always replying fast too. definitely the best channel on youtube for all things mini drift rc related
@@gtrckt Yes, but it depends on chassis to chassis and driver's preference. Some of them just work with 0 camber. You can also use rounded POM tyres instead as well.
Nice setup. What is the difference between an external gyro like the one you have vs one that’s built into the receiver? Any advantage of an external one? I have a fly sky FS-BS3 on the way and wondering if an external gyro would be better and if so, how.
Separated gyro unit is usually more responsive and accurate than built-in. However I haven't tried the new stuffs yet and these are what I know based on my experience with old stuffs. New ones like FS-BS3 and RC4GS might work just as good already.
@@BeaversHobby I see. Okay, thank you. I did some further research and found that the external gyro allows adjustability within the unit itself whereas the ones built into the receiver are controlled only by the transmitter.
@@bigblockbumpside2296 Unfortunately, no. And this is not it's final form. I ended up using the standard one (straight one) and made my own extension in the next step. czcams.com/video/KXmDLnptEgU/video.html
You'll need a gyro and more angle than in this video. I later made some changes in the part 3 and 4. czcams.com/video/KXmDLnptEgU/video.html czcams.com/video/CUZIcDH5P6g/video.html
It's from standard 5g servo. I think the yellow one is from PowerHD 1600A. I use it because I've already drilled it. Gening D561MG also gives you some horns.
@@BeaversHobby thanks for the reply, you really inspired me to take on this project. just wondering what offset do you have for your front and rear tires?
@@BeaversHobby Thank you for the help, would you recommend this combo for this build www.aliexpress.com/item/32838629176.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.30f43c00tn9OVG&mp=1
@@jademd15 Actually, it's a very old video that I did with the toe bar, apply the same method with the upper control arm and you'll get adjustable camber. By the way, use M2 screw instead of M1.5 for better strength. czcams.com/video/9OlVz1dXJNc/video.html
Yes, toe is too much because the linkages I use can't extend too far. I really have to do something about it. Rear heavy is pretty nice though. I saw a lot of people hanging the battery at the back but didn't think it'd help until I tried. It makes the car a bit lazy to go in to drift and slow to in transition. But it's more stable and won't spin as easily.
Does this shock mod make it more able to fit mini z bodies? And you could get it a couple mm lower if you remove the nuts on the bottom on the ball head and cut the shaft of the ball head by 2mm.
No, the monoshock actually makes the front higher at the bulkhead/gearbox area. To make the front lower to fit Mini-Z bodies is lowering the front shock tower like this one. czcams.com/video/-gCJEXXWBEo/video.html
@@goingcrazy00 If the wheels has a bit of offset like 1.5 it'll get enough steering to drift in AWD. Doing monoshock is for extreme steering angle in case you do CS mod at high ratio, eg. more than 2.0 (rear wheels spin 2 times while the front spin 1 time).
@@goingcrazy00 The CS mod is only for AWD. I'm sorry I was confused from talking you you in the previous video with out of the box K969 and all. For RWD, yes, this shock configuration is one of the few ways you get enough steering. Otherwise it won't work. However it's even harder to fit a Mini-Z body. ps. I'm still waiting for Camaro ZL1 to come out though. That one should be great on WLtoys.
In the final version the length is around 16mm-18mm if I remember correctly. It's toe angle. You can set it up however you like as long as it's toe out, the wheels are pointing outwards.
@@BeaversHobby hey i have trouble with servo placement and i have followed the linkage lenght....but the angle is not what i tought it would be......should i buy the mini q rear linkage or servo cuz the origanal servo had no much angle.....i got the linkage from wltoys a959b....i cut the linkage and put it back together and follow the length that you have given.
Any tool you use in particular? It's almost impossible to find tool for 1/28 at reasonable price (only people who have it are hard-core racers). So I just use MIT setup sheet for toe and 1/10 tool for camber. BTW, this is RC drift so you'll see a lot of toe out and camber. Parallel alignment is a rare sight.
This is horn from PowerHD 1600A. It has 2 top holes side by side which I thought it would be perfect. As it turned out, this still hasn't got enough steering.
What is the best drift car i should buy for my house in quarantine i have a basketball court in my base ment so i have space to drift but i dont know if i want the mini z or the wltoys
Time Stamps
Premise of this project: 0:23
Centre shaft mod: 0:36
Electronics installation: 2:04
Steering/servo mod: 3:17
Bulkhead mod: 4:10
Steering knuckle mod: 4:57
Monoshock: 6:31
Servo installation: 8:46
Gyro installation: 9:02
Final result: 9:23
Test drive: 10:17
Conclusion: 10:44
Q QA pa
Pmmm
I love your videos on the Wltoys k989 build thank you for all your work I’ve been having so much fun with my K989 thanks to you.
very very crafty buddy. always coming up with new cheap tweaking methods. A++
YASS! been waiting for this series so much, since im also going to do this conversion
I'm also glad it's finally up and running. This car has been sitting in pieces for months.
Giving me inspirations for mini z rwd. Thanks always 🙏🏽
SUN JAE LEE Hey man, do you have any stl files for making a RWD drift Mini z?
Haha ive been watching your channel the day or so binge watching video after video , good work man awesome to see mini rwd ,i just ordered one last week but im in nz and shipping takes a whole month haha buy then should have plan set also going to convert to 1/24 scale to suit rx-7 model i built
Dude your ideas or knowledge is on point
Hey man! Thanks again for this vid, I'm binge watching literally everyday and learning alot from you.
Quick question though, do you know if upgrading to metal steering cups/knuckles is better than plastic? Because mine keeps on breaking, it's the 2nd time already in a month, and ordering each time I break the part is kind of frustrating. (I accidentally keep on breaking it when removing the link rods, I don't know a better/efficient way than converting to metal. What do you think?
Yes, the knuckle is a good upgrade to improve the durability. However make sure the ball heads are OK and don't have thick collar otherwise they will get stuck and won't have full movement for the suspension. You might have to grind the underside of the ball heads down in that case.
Personally since it's small I would reduce Ackerman to hold angle longer at higher speeds, I repositioned the hole where the steering rods connect to the wheel hub, try to have positive toe into parallel toe at full lock. Just my opinion
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll look in to that.
Thanks bro very helping, im trying to convert mine. Specially on steering system
Nice bro
So crazy !! But work !!
I understand !! Thank you very much!!
you are crazy man !!!! that is Awesome !!!!
late to the scene...thank you for all the videos! :)
I have an old Tamiya Fox (renamed NovaFox) its a rwd buggy 1:10. It has an awesome oldschool brushed motor(revolution losi) im thinking of coverting it to a drift car. Its really fun with drift tires. So i think if i add gyro and replace servo and all but engine it will glide. BUT it wont be original 1984. Should it do it or leave alone?
That's a tough question. Personally I'd leave it be because it's a vintage Tamiya and I have a soft spot for that. Then it'll get something like 3Racing Sakura D5 for RWD drift.
This is awesome info.
Where can I get the servo horn. I have everything else, please help or point me in the right direction
It's from afrc 5g servo or powerhd 5g. However the angle is not enough and in the end I made my own extension to a straight horn. Check out part 3 and 4 for more info.
Love your vids man.
My friend,try to have more parallel steering and more linear throttle control.my advice is dont put too much caster as it will upset the balance and your difficulty will increase.my humble opinion
Thanks. This car has been modded to it's maximum setting in my next videos. I don't know if you've seen it yet, here's my final update. czcams.com/video/CUZIcDH5P6g/video.html
Thanks for the suggestion about caster by the way. I also find excessive caster makes it harder to drive. I also dialed down the caster on my DRZ.
sweet i like I may buy another wltoys 1/28 car. my x power micro mit should be coming in any day and I will make a video of it
Looking forward to that.
Hey beaver würde es was bringen auf der Hinterachse auch ein monoshock System zu installieren?
I've seen people doing it. I guess it's for rolling effect but I don't know how effective it is for controlling the car. I do monoshock on the front so I can have more clearance for steering. The rear doesn't need that.
Nice build
I had an idea last night for a third bearing system that would hold the stock cut driveshaft in a bearing cup that is screwed into stock motor sper plate
2 bearings would do if the shaft is short enough. You only need the front and the back of the shaft and it got that already. I just cut my screw really long.
Hey, is there any other mods to make more steering angle in the k989? I want to keep it 4wd but wanting more steering angle. I changed the ballhead position from the servo horn. Is there any other ways?
Make monoshoock for more clearance. You can also move the steering ball on the knuckle forward.
is it possible to increase the steering angle without doing all this, is it that just by cutting the part of the cell and moving the pivot point of the ball joints this could be enough?
Unfortunately, no. Simply moving pivot point isn't enough for RWD drifting. Even this is still not enough and you can see in my 3rd update how to make enough steering angle. However you don't have to move the servo if you don't want, just make the horn long enough and it should be fine.
amazing job man!
Nice project!
Lmfao I’m waiting forward to Xmas,also can you make like a cinematic montage vid
Thanks fir the suggestion. I gotta lay down a course first.
I love these vids you did on the 1:28.
I would love it if you could please please do some on the Wltoys A242 1:24....
I'm brand new to RC but definitely have the bug. Thanks for taking the time and making the videos for us.
Sorry, I have no plan for 1/24 at the moment. I might change my mind later though once I run out things to do on 1/28.
@@BeaversHobby
I hear you, good point. Keep on having fun. Thanks again for sharing.
hey dude, what is the option for beginner drift, awd or rwd?
AWD. It's much easier and it's not expensive.
@@BeaversHobby thanks dude, wait for your new video 😉
@@valentinorossidin4803 My pleasure.
How does it drive compared to the atomic rwd
It's still far off. This one only slides without spinning. Too violent with the control and there's no way to recover unlike Atomic DRZ where I'm in control most of the time.
I love it
Mod the steering still make me confuse😂 can i use gyc 300 gyro??
GYC300 probably works. You can try but I don't know how fast it responses.
As for steering modification, there are 5 steps. Starting from 1. doing up the servo horn with 2 holes at the top. 2. Cut the back off front bulk head. 3. Mod the steering knuckle. 4. making monoshock. and 5. stick the gyro down.
@@BeaversHobby okay thanks.. i wanna try....
How do how get the front to grip like that? No matter what more weight or less weight and steering input the car just goes straight, ive got a ton of angle and everything just can't get the front to grip
If no matter what you do the front just won't grip then you'll have to check the tyres contact and possibly put M2 screw into the lower arm to adjust the ride height and in turn, tyre contact.
@@BeaversHobby thanks Ill give it a try! The ride height in the front is pretty low would it help if i rased it, im running a concrete in the garage maybe the front of the chassis is dragging on the uneven surface 🤔
@@haydnholder7090 It's really hard to run this car on a rough surface already so getting RWD drift to work is going to be difficult. Anyway, check the front contact is the main thing. You'll need it to have tyre contact when you turn. The ball cap on the steering could be too tight and it pulls the arm up too so check that as well.
@@BeaversHobby sweet thanks bro! Just installed a losi micro front shock and cut those chassis tabs off way more clearance in the front now an alot smoother up an down movement, what surfaces would you recommend to be the best to run it?
@@haydnholder7090 Anything smooth will do. Wooden floor or table or marble/polished concrete are also good.
Sir, the servo horn where did u buy it?
You can get the same one in AFRC bit.ly/38sCLr2 .
However you will find out in part 3 of this series that it's not enough for RWD drifting and Ackerman + toe angle weren't good so I had to make my own extension czcams.com/video/KXmDLnptEgU/video.html .
Hi do I have to make or cut the center shaft to make it rwd ? Or I can just take it out and put nothing in it ?
You can do that or just do what I did, find another 2mm shaft and file the end off to make a flat spot so you don't destroy the original part.
@@BeaversHobby thanks I will do a rwd conservative after I fix some problems on the wltoys first
Bro what if the gyro vibrates?
It might get some bad reading and the wheels will shake back and forth when it counter steer. The wheel shake can come from something else too but we'll always check if the gyro is properly mounted first.
Hi beav! I ordered 2 mini q ball diff for the WLTOYS k989. Do i need special cups or the atomic universal shafts to install them? Can you post a link of the items i will need to get the ball diff in? You have been so helpful with these cars:) thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Yes, you'll need long swing shafts. Atomic's are constantly out of stock most of the time so I also give you the link for RC-Aurora
www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1029&products_id=13988
ppm-rcracing.com/products/Wide-Crooked-Angle-Universal-Shaft-for-Mini%252dZ-%286061-Black-x-4-Pcs-Long%29.html
Do I need to install gyro for rwd to work properly? My car just spin out without one.
Yes, a gyro is necessary for RWD drift.
Sameeeeeee
What brushless motor did u use in this project ? And Esc tnx !
I use Surpass 1410 brushless motor and XC-10A ESC in this project. However this setup is obsolete now and I highly recommend Surpass brushless combo. www.aliexpress.com/item/4000900570121.html
Hello, What do you use for the ground?
My floor is some sort of plastic-rubber tile. It's just regular room floor.
Hi beaver😊👍, I am just wondering....... is there a particular reason that not many people seem to do the mono shock mod on the rear of these cars? Thank you
I think because the wheels are not really independent to each other so the handling will be compromised. The main reason to do this is to move the shock away from steering.
Ok thank you 😊👍
Hello where do I find that servo horn you have in this vid thanks
Hhhh
@@________GHOST________ It's usually bundled with a servo. Last time I got it with the AFRC D1802MG servo. Still, this is not the best horn to do this modification. You're better off with a custom horn like I did here (it's update 3). czcams.com/video/KXmDLnptEgU/video.html
where did you get the spacers?
Tamiya Mini 4WD parts. You can also find them from other make like 3 Racing like this. www.3racing-parts.com/tamiya-mini-4wd-2mm-spacer-set-black-3racing-m4wd01bk-p-90069636.html
@@BeaversHobby dude you are literally a god send. always replying fast too. definitely the best channel on youtube for all things mini drift rc related
Hi Beaver, at 7:00 I saw your upper swing arm was modified. Do you think it's important to include the mod to increase caber for front wheel?
Not really. Standard camber will do fine. This is carried over from my previous project.
@@BeaversHobby I’m relieved that I don’t have to do this mod. But isn’t a lot of RWD cars (eg atomic DRZ) shows quite a bit of front wheel camber?
@@gtrckt Yes, but it depends on chassis to chassis and driver's preference. Some of them just work with 0 camber. You can also use rounded POM tyres instead as well.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you. You are an invaluable resource to RC community.
Nice setup. What is the difference between an external gyro like the one you have vs one that’s built into the receiver? Any advantage of an external one? I have a fly sky FS-BS3 on the way and wondering if an external gyro would be better and if so, how.
Separated gyro unit is usually more responsive and accurate than built-in.
However I haven't tried the new stuffs yet and these are what I know based on my experience with old stuffs. New ones like FS-BS3 and RC4GS might work just as good already.
@@BeaversHobby I see. Okay, thank you. I did some further research and found that the external gyro allows adjustability within the unit itself whereas the ones built into the receiver are controlled only by the transmitter.
@@Funcentric Some expensive gyro can adjust endpoint independent to the transmitter too.
สุดยอดครับ
Where do you find the servo horn??
It comes with the servo. If you buy something like this AFRC bit.ly/38sCLr2 it'll have horns including the one in this video.
@@BeaversHobby thank you!
@@BeaversHobby i actually already have a servo very similar to that. Is there a place to get just the servo horn?
@@bigblockbumpside2296 Unfortunately, no. And this is not it's final form. I ended up using the standard one (straight one) and made my own extension in the next step. czcams.com/video/KXmDLnptEgU/video.html
I make the same upgrade and i cant control the drifting is imposible someone can Help me i sent video samething is wrong i think
You'll need a gyro and more angle than in this video. I later made some changes in the part 3 and 4. czcams.com/video/KXmDLnptEgU/video.html
czcams.com/video/CUZIcDH5P6g/video.html
hi, do you know what servo horn you used. Thanks!
It's from standard 5g servo. I think the yellow one is from PowerHD 1600A. I use it because I've already drilled it. Gening D561MG also gives you some horns.
@@BeaversHobby thanks for the reply, you really inspired me to take on this project. just wondering what offset do you have for your front and rear tires?
@@Artski4000 In this video I use 0mm offset narrow wheels on all corners and Mini-Z drift tyres narrow MDT001.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you for the help, would you recommend this combo for this build
www.aliexpress.com/item/32838629176.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.30f43c00tn9OVG&mp=1
Have you modded the upper control arms at all for the steering mod?
Yes, I modded my upper arms to be to adjust the length for camber.
@@BeaversHobby is that in this video? (have I completely missed it 😂)
@@jademd15 Actually, it's a very old video that I did with the toe bar, apply the same method with the upper control arm and you'll get adjustable camber. By the way, use M2 screw instead of M1.5 for better strength. czcams.com/video/9OlVz1dXJNc/video.html
@@BeaversHobby awesome thank you!
@@jademd15 My pleasure. Good luck with the project.
Isnt that too much toe out? Also looks like too rear-heavy though
Yes, toe is too much because the linkages I use can't extend too far. I really have to do something about it.
Rear heavy is pretty nice though. I saw a lot of people hanging the battery at the back but didn't think it'd help until I tried. It makes the car a bit lazy to go in to drift and slow to in transition. But it's more stable and won't spin as easily.
Beaver's Hobby you can probably make a custom steering arm using extended servo horns.
@@nameless2346 That's what I'm going to do. But it'll need a bit of experimenting with length and width first.
Beaver's Hobby cool. Can’t wait
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Does this shock mod make it more able to fit mini z bodies? And you could get it a couple mm lower if you remove the nuts on the bottom on the ball head and cut the shaft of the ball head by 2mm.
No, the monoshock actually makes the front higher at the bulkhead/gearbox area.
To make the front lower to fit Mini-Z bodies is lowering the front shock tower like this one. czcams.com/video/-gCJEXXWBEo/video.html
@@BeaversHobby but then you can't get the steering angle because the shock is in the way right?
@@goingcrazy00 If the wheels has a bit of offset like 1.5 it'll get enough steering to drift in AWD. Doing monoshock is for extreme steering angle in case you do CS mod at high ratio, eg. more than 2.0 (rear wheels spin 2 times while the front spin 1 time).
@@BeaversHobby you still do the C's mod on RWD? Don't you remove the dif in front and remove the center shaft for RWD?
@@goingcrazy00 The CS mod is only for AWD. I'm sorry I was confused from talking you you in the previous video with out of the box K969 and all.
For RWD, yes, this shock configuration is one of the few ways you get enough steering. Otherwise it won't work. However it's even harder to fit a Mini-Z body.
ps. I'm still waiting for Camaro ZL1 to come out though. That one should be great on WLtoys.
How long is that two linkage from the servo and the hub
In the final version the length is around 16mm-18mm if I remember correctly. It's toe angle. You can set it up however you like as long as it's toe out, the wheels are pointing outwards.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you very much
@@airellhafidz3266 My pleasure. Good luck with the project!
@@BeaversHobby hey i have trouble with servo placement and i have followed the linkage lenght....but the angle is not what i tought it would be......should i buy the mini q rear linkage or servo cuz the origanal servo had no much angle.....i got the linkage from wltoys a959b....i cut the linkage and put it back together and follow the length that you have given.
@@airellhafidz3266 You can try and change the servo to another one. Also what radio are you using? Some radios don't output much servo movement.
Your frount stering alignment is out use lazer pointer used to align real car wheels ...they must be in paraell
Any tool you use in particular? It's almost impossible to find tool for 1/28 at reasonable price (only people who have it are hard-core racers). So I just use MIT setup sheet for toe and 1/10 tool for camber.
BTW, this is RC drift so you'll see a lot of toe out and camber. Parallel alignment is a rare sight.
Can you give your email? I need some help. I made cs and it worked well. Then i made rwd and it can't drift :( i dont understand why :(
Here's my email beavershobby@gmail.com
And if you want more rapid response then facebook is probably better facebook.com/beavershobby/
5:49 lol
That servo horn looks very wierd
This is horn from PowerHD 1600A. It has 2 top holes side by side which I thought it would be perfect. As it turned out, this still hasn't got enough steering.
Hey thanks now i know and one question
What is the best drift car i should buy for my house in quarantine i have a basketball court in my base ment so i have space to drift but i dont know if i want the mini z or the wltoys
Witch one do you prefer
Just for a video idea there is a HBX 1/18 drift car it might be good or bad that’s why i watch your vids for upgrades builds,etc
Damn covid got everything taking long time or out of stock
You can search for alternatives. The main parts are 3.5mm ball heads and ball caps, M2 screws and spacers.
@@BeaversHobby ok thanks
@@esmokebaby My pleasure.
@@BeaversHobby been trying to find a 3d print stl but no one nice enough to give me one lol
@@esmokebaby I think in this group would have someone doing the 3D printed chassis. Check it out. facebook.com/groups/296354234301053
ผมเข้านิ้วไปแล้ว 555พาด จนได้
มีดคมจังอยากได้มาไว้เเล้วก็พวกหัวสว่านอ่ะครับถ้าจะซื้อต้องซื้อที่ไหนครับเเล้วชื่อเรียกว่าอะไรว่าอะไรครับ
เเล้ไจโรมันช่วยให้อะไรดีขึ้นเเล้วดีขึ้นมากกว่าเก่าไหมครับ
มีด Art knife ของ Olfa ซื้อจาก B2S ร้านขายเครื่องเขียนอื่นก็น่าจะมีครับ
ส่วนสว่านมือ กับดอกสว่าน ได้มาจากอมรครับ ดอกสว่านซื้อมาหลาย ๆ เบอร์หน่อย พวกเล็ก ๆ แบบ 1, 1,5, 2 มิล
ไจโรช่วยให้รถไม่หมุนครับ ถ้าขับ 4 ไม่จำเป็น แต่ดริฟท์ขับหลังต้องใส่ ไม่งั้นหมุนตลอด
ล้อของอะไรครับสวยดีขอเว๊ปซื้อหน่อยครับ
ล้อของ Mini-Z ตัวธรรมดาเลยครับ ออฟเซ็ต 0 สีเทา
แนะนำติดต่อร้าน RC บ้านนอกครับว่ามีไหม facebook.com/RCBHobby/
ของผมสั่งมาจากนอก ตอนนี้หมดแล้ว banzaihobby.com/Kyosho-MDH100G-N0
Why you have an indian accent