How nice to see an artisan following the tradition in Maine. I am an old retired American ébéniste and learned my trade from 1966-1981 in France where, after I finished my diploma to become an apprentice furniture maker, I finally specialized in 17th & 18th century French furniture restoration. We always used a combination of: warm hide, bone and nerve glue, since we followed a specific tradition. Today we have liquid hide glue as well. I have used gorilla glue on some rare occasions. It is easier to clean the expanding gorilla glue from the clamped joints with a wet cloth (with water) so you don’t have to scrape the dried glue and risk damaging the patina. You just have to be vigilant. Water also benefits the curing of gorilla glue. I also would not recommend using a power tool to remove the old glue because it is easy to compromise the shape of the assemblage. I use a very sharp chisel when it is not hide glue that has hardened. Sometimes old glues can be loosened by solvents, but that depends upon the glue used and the client’s pocketbook. I would have used liquid hide glue on your chair which can easily be cleaned with water after clamping, and you don’t risk cutting into the finish or patina after the glue has set, just use some warm water for the excess. Furthermore, it is possible to loosen hide glue in the future for eventual repairs. It is far more difficult and time consuming to do so when using: polyurethane, epoxy, titebond, white & yellow glues, etc. Remember, nothing lasts forever. One last thing I think I should mention, I find it very important to clamp the chair to the bench if it is to be left standing on its legs during the clamping phase, to be assured that all four legs are touching the flat bench surface, so that the glue sets with all the legs in the correct position. Otherwise, you just may have to fix your new rocking chair. I was delighted to see how well you used the cord to clamp which I have done on so many occasions. Moreover, you taught this old artisan how to make some important knots. Thank you and good luck.
Excellent tutorial! Loved the rope tourniquet! Appreciated the camera closeups, and the label tip is so valuable! I had never thought of that, and I WOULD mix them up. THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
Thank you very much for sharing these tips. I followed your instructions and have saved two Edwardian chairs that would otherwise have ended up in the dump. Thanks again!
I wish I had seen before how to make the loops and the use of cotton rope, I fixed a chair in my house this morning using this method but had great difficulty thigthening with the wrong rope and at the same time trying to hold cardboard to protect the wood, finally I got it thight, I know better now for the next time. Thank you.
I used a variation of the tourniquet trick to hold a wooden box together I made at Christmas while it glued up. Wrapped it around the box and used some squares of corrugated cardboard at the corners to prevent damage.
Excellent video -- informative, well-done, easy to follow . . . THANKS FOR SHARING ! I would like to see a video about a chair arm with posts (spindles) for support that have become unstable . . . any suggestions?
I used Gorila glue and NEVER again ! Tite-bond is what furniture Companys use, Another hint I do with the tennon of each streacher or leg , take and put a small knoch at the end of the tennon so that it allows glue to hold to the side of the tennon,usally 3 knoches around the end of the tennon, and what I have noticed is that when then tennon is pushed in the hole it pushes the glue to the bottom and nothing is around the side to hold the tennon. Since I started using this step I have never had a repair come back to be redone.
here is the stuff is called tie chairs wonder lock, on amazon has over 30# 5 star reviews, it must bind to the old glue because CA doesnt work with wood. i might try it on one. im unsure about epoxy too because if the joint gets loose agian i heard it was impossible to repair again
Thank you for the comment. I've been a professional woodworker for 25 years and avoid polyurethane glue like the plague. I much prefer Titebond 2 for any joint repairs. it's very easy to over apply polyurethane glue and end up with tons of foam over, a little bit goes a long way. I use a spray bottle of water to spritz the joints to activate the polyurethane glue and to speed up cure time. Any expansion of polyurethane glue is useless to fill a void as it is mostly air pockets and provides a very weak bond.Filling of large voids should be done with 2 part epoxy or Bondo. I use a ratchet strap to tighten up the legs onto the stretchers. fast and cheap and very effective giving it a lot of pressure that way.
poly glue is the worst stuff for chair tenons they have ground the tenons down to remove the old glue the joints are not tight this type of glue foams up when it cures . the joint will work over time and grind this glue to powder. use a good 24 hr epoxy with a silaca filler
have you any experience with Cyanoacrylate type chairx repair. its a very runny form of super glue thats supposed to fix the chair with out taking it apart, it must bind to the old glue or something. im highly skeptical but the reviews and testimonials are all positive. and the idea of fixing without taking apart is appealing as i have about 10 chairs to do
Nice video, and I will give it a shot. My fear though is that where some of the dowles are not a snug fit, you are asking too much of the strength of the glue. I was thinking of ways to expand the circumference of the dowels, from a nail or screw into the center, to thin strips of wood wrapped around the cleaned up dowel to make it wider, or even sticking tooth picks inside after it is together, with the glue still wet, then breaking the ends off, the same way I repair the screw holes on my guitar for the tuners. Just seems I have never had luck once they go, but I admit to not being a pro at this. I'm happy to see I did use the EXACT same way to brace the chair legs, using closeline and, in my case, a screwdriver to put the torque on and let the cross piece hold the screwdriver in place after turning it a few times. I hope people let us know how the chairs hold up...with a bunch of big kids and older people who tend to slide the chairs instead of getting up and moving them, they have to be strong. Thank you!!!!
one last thing....I was also thinking of, as a last step after the clamping, place from 50 to 100 pounds on the seat after placing it in the normal use position, feet on the ground. The reason I wondered if this would help is with the dowels not being as snug as new, the weight would force the dowels against the side of the hole it would be seated against when someone is sitting on the chair.....rather than letting the glue dry and the dowel not be flush hard against where the weight of a person seated would be forcing it toward, placing all the weight on the glue instead of letting the wood take all the pressure, and the glue just holding the pieces in place. Thanks again!!!!
Thank you for a great tutorial! I have a rocking chair I need to fix. Someone has put in a bunch of screws to try to hold it. Will this method still work? Should I replace a screw in each joint? Also should I use the Dremel to clean out the joint holes of old glue?? Thanks!!
No do not use screws, metal and wood are a bad combination and the screw will always win. Use glue and dowels. A correctly glued piece of wood is stronger than the wood itself
My chair legs don't separate from the top. The back legs are one continuous piece from the top of the chair back to the legs. I cant see any place where the seat can be removed. Can't find any way to take this sucker apart
H.D. Rider not sure if you are still wondering about this question but I use a hammer and punch, I drive the nail further into the piece until I see it pop out from the other side then I switch sides and I can back the nail out for removal. This does mean you will have to decided on how you want to cover up the small hole caused from the punch and nail, but it’s a necessary evil. The only time this practice is a problem is if the nail went in crooked, at which point slow rocking of the joint while using the rubber mallet while watching is your only option then. If the item is painted it’s not such a big deal if you do break off a small piece because it’s easier to hid repairs under a painted surface, and ones that have to be stained just take a little more care in matching up the finish so your repair is not visible.
H.D. Rider H.D. Rider good, I’m glad you were able to get through the project. I was taught to never use anything but normal wood glue for repairs, and to keep a clean damp rag around to wipe off any glue seepage until there is none, so there is no problem with staining. I like the blow torch option, I have had some repairs that I have had to sand down or strip to fix so I will definitely put this in my list of possible options. I recently repaired a rocking chair similar in age and state too what you just restored, the new seat I put in was pressed cane. Dido on not being able to attach pics, I would love to see your how your project turned out!
I would only use the torch option if the piece is to be stained very dark. I had to go with a dark stain to help hide the new wood. My next tool to buy is a wood lathe to recreate old broken or missing spindles. Over the years I've restore several pieces of really old furniture. I like the kind that has character but are headed for the dump. That way I can do what I want and not worry about the antique value.
Excellent clamping solution however the use of the gorilla glue is absolutely the worst type of glue to be used in furniture repair. There is not a reputable shop in the country that would use this stuff on a piece of indoor fine furniture. Just sayin. Been in the business for almost 40 years. I hope people that see this don’t think this is a good idea.
I wouldn't. I do this for a living. Trust me epoxy is the best choice. if a joint that has been epoxied ever loosens use a heat gun to soften the epoxy, Knock the joint apart and re-epoxy. I strongly recommend that you don't use CA glue to glue a chair together. It can be done but it simply will not last. If you choose to use epoxy which i strongly recommend. Remove the old glue from the joints and roughen the surfaces before gluing this will last for ever!
Terrible choice . Best thing to do is take the chairs apart and one at a time mark all parts to there specific locations do not mix parts. Apply a good amount of epoxy and clamp the chair together. Overnight. Using CA or Superglue would be a painful mistake.
Good clamping idea..... but a terrible idea for using that type of glue on a real antique. Save that glue for the big box furniture. You are just making it really difficult for the next guy who wants to fix it the right way. No joint lasts forever, someone down the road will have to fix your bad repair job.
How nice to see an artisan following the tradition in Maine. I am an old retired American ébéniste and learned my trade from 1966-1981 in France where, after I finished my diploma to become an apprentice furniture maker, I finally specialized in 17th & 18th century French furniture restoration.
We always used a combination of: warm hide, bone and nerve glue, since we followed a specific tradition. Today we have liquid hide glue as well.
I have used gorilla glue on some rare occasions. It is easier to clean the expanding gorilla glue from the clamped joints with a wet cloth (with water) so you don’t have to scrape the dried glue and risk damaging the patina. You just have to be vigilant. Water also benefits the curing of gorilla glue.
I also would not recommend using a power tool to remove the old glue because it is easy to compromise the shape of the assemblage. I use a very sharp chisel when it is not hide glue that has hardened. Sometimes old glues can be loosened by solvents, but that depends upon the glue used and the client’s pocketbook.
I would have used liquid hide glue on your chair which can easily be cleaned with water after clamping, and you don’t risk cutting into the finish or patina after the glue has set, just use some warm water for the excess. Furthermore, it is possible to loosen hide glue in the future for eventual repairs. It is far more difficult and time consuming to do so when using: polyurethane, epoxy, titebond, white & yellow glues, etc. Remember, nothing lasts forever.
One last thing I think I should mention, I find it very important to clamp the chair to the bench if it is to be left standing on its legs during the clamping phase, to be assured that all four legs are touching the flat bench surface, so that the glue sets with all the legs in the correct position. Otherwise, you just may have to fix your new rocking chair.
I was delighted to see how well you used the cord to clamp which I have done on so many occasions. Moreover, you taught this old artisan how to make some important knots. Thank you and good luck.
David L , LOVE your Old World techniques. Will attempt to use in my chair repair. You the man!
Excellent tutorial! Loved the rope tourniquet! Appreciated the camera closeups, and the label tip is so valuable! I had never thought of that, and I WOULD mix them up. THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
Thank you very much for sharing these tips. I followed your instructions and have saved two Edwardian chairs that would otherwise have ended up in the dump. Thanks again!
I wish I had seen before how to make the loops and the use of cotton rope, I fixed a chair in my house this morning using this method but had great difficulty thigthening with the wrong rope and at the same time trying to hold cardboard to protect the wood, finally I got it thight, I know better now for the next time. Thank you.
good method for people who dont have a clamp. I can try this in future. I will share this method to others. Thanks for making this video.
I used a variation of the tourniquet trick to hold a wooden box together I made at Christmas while it glued up. Wrapped it around the box and used some squares of corrugated cardboard at the corners to prevent damage.
A fine video on wooden chair repair. I used a few of your tips. Thanks!
So surprised to see you are in Boothbay. I grew up in Waldoboro and Rockland but have lived many years in Florida. Great video!
Great video. Very easy to follow your instructions. Thanks.
Excellent video -- informative, well-done, easy to follow . . . THANKS FOR SHARING ! I would like to see a video about a chair arm with posts (spindles) for support that have become unstable . . . any suggestions?
thats a very clever way of tightening loose joints and its cheap as well. thks for sharing :)
I love the clamp idea-great video!
Actually, she did wear safety glasses. If you go back to when she starts you'll see. We actually mention wearing them, but for time we edited it out.
Thanks for the comprehensive tutorial. The camera did not capture how you tied the very first knot on your cotton rope brace.
I used Gorila glue and NEVER again ! Tite-bond is what furniture Companys
use, Another hint I do with the tennon of each streacher or leg , take and put a small knoch at the end of the tennon so that it allows glue to hold to the side
of the tennon,usally 3 knoches around the end of the tennon, and what I have noticed is that when then tennon is pushed in the hole it pushes the glue to the bottom and nothing is around the side to hold the tennon. Since I started using this step I have never had a repair come back to be redone.
here is the stuff is called tie chairs wonder lock, on amazon has over 30# 5 star reviews, it must bind to the old glue because CA doesnt work with wood.
i might try it on one. im unsure about epoxy too because if the joint gets loose agian i heard it was impossible to repair again
Don’t you have to spray a water mist on thecontact surfaces to activate Gorrila glue? It activates the expansion.
JoeB
Best to apply wax around the joint before glueing The glue does not then stick
Thank you for the comment. I've been a professional woodworker for 25 years and avoid polyurethane glue like the plague. I much prefer Titebond 2 for any joint repairs. it's very easy to over apply polyurethane glue and end up with tons of foam over, a little bit goes a long way. I use a spray bottle of water to spritz the joints to activate the polyurethane glue and to speed up cure time. Any expansion of polyurethane glue is useless to fill a void as it is mostly air pockets and provides a very weak bond.Filling of large voids should be done with 2 part epoxy or Bondo. I use a ratchet strap to tighten up the legs onto the stretchers. fast and cheap and very effective giving it a lot of pressure that way.
Great video! I will give it a try.
Thank you! Very helpful video!
Nice demo! Thanks!
ok . .you sold me, thnx for the tips
You are right! Epoxy glues are better. I use them all the time. I was concerned using them might be too advanced for the average homeowner.
poly glue is the worst stuff for chair tenons
they have ground the tenons down to remove the old glue the joints are not tight this type of glue foams up when it cures . the joint will work over time and grind this glue to powder. use a good 24 hr epoxy with a silaca filler
have you any experience with Cyanoacrylate type chairx repair.
its a very runny form of super glue thats supposed to fix the chair with out taking it apart, it must bind to the old glue or something. im highly skeptical but the reviews and testimonials are all positive. and the idea of fixing without taking apart is appealing as i have about 10 chairs to do
Nice video, and I will give it a shot. My fear though is that where some of the dowles are not a snug fit, you are asking too much of the strength of the glue. I was thinking of ways to expand the circumference of the dowels, from a nail or screw into the center, to thin strips of wood wrapped around the cleaned up dowel to make it wider, or even sticking tooth picks inside after it is together, with the glue still wet, then breaking the ends off, the same way I repair the screw holes on my guitar for the tuners. Just seems I have never had luck once they go, but I admit to not being a pro at this. I'm happy to see I did use the EXACT same way to brace the chair legs, using closeline and, in my case, a screwdriver to put the torque on and let the cross piece hold the screwdriver in place after turning it a few times. I hope people let us know how the chairs hold up...with a bunch of big kids and older people who tend to slide the chairs instead of getting up and moving them, they have to be strong. Thank you!!!!
one last thing....I was also thinking of, as a last step after the clamping, place from 50 to 100 pounds on the seat after placing it in the normal use position, feet on the ground.
The reason I wondered if this would help is with the dowels not being as snug as new, the weight would force the dowels against the side of the hole it would be seated against when someone is sitting on the chair.....rather than letting the glue dry and the dowel not be flush hard against where the weight of a person seated would be forcing it toward, placing all the weight on the glue instead of letting the wood take all the pressure, and the glue just holding the pieces in place. Thanks again!!!!
good video. thanks
thank you for sharing
Thank you for a great tutorial! I have a rocking chair I need to fix. Someone has put in a bunch of screws to try to hold it. Will this method still work? Should I replace a screw in each joint? Also should I use the Dremel to clean out the joint holes of old glue?? Thanks!!
No do not use screws, metal and wood are a bad combination and the screw will always win. Use glue and dowels. A correctly glued piece of wood is stronger than the wood itself
will the epoxy bind to the old glue?
can you recommend a brand of epoxy?
i hope so lol use a good amount of epoxy to fill the joints
Thanks!
My chair legs don't separate from the top. The back legs are one continuous piece from the top of the chair back to the legs. I cant see any place where the seat can be removed. Can't find any way to take this sucker apart
Great video. Thanks for the info!
removing old glue is best... Any 20 min epoxy will work but west system is best.
But how do you get the nails out if it has any without damaging the wood?
H.D. Rider not sure if you are still wondering about this question but I use a hammer and punch, I drive the nail further into the piece until I see it pop out from the other side then I switch sides and I can back the nail out for removal. This does mean you will have to decided on how you want to cover up the small hole caused from the punch and nail, but it’s a necessary evil. The only time this practice is a problem is if the nail went in crooked, at which point slow rocking of the joint while using the rubber mallet while watching is your only option then. If the item is painted it’s not such a big deal if you do break off a small piece because it’s easier to hid repairs under a painted surface, and ones that have to be stained just take a little more care in matching up the finish so your repair is not visible.
H.D. Rider H.D. Rider good, I’m glad you were able to get through the project. I was taught to never use anything but normal wood glue for repairs, and to keep a clean damp rag around to wipe off any glue seepage until there is none, so there is no problem with staining. I like the blow torch option, I have had some repairs that I have had to sand down or strip to fix so I will definitely put this in my list of possible options. I recently repaired a rocking chair similar in age and state too what you just restored, the new seat I put in was pressed cane. Dido on not being able to attach pics, I would love to see your how your project turned out!
I would only use the torch option if the piece is to be stained very dark. I had to go with a dark stain to help hide the new wood. My next tool to buy is a wood lathe to recreate old broken or missing spindles. Over the years I've restore several pieces of really old furniture. I like the kind that has character but are headed for the dump. That way I can do what I want and not worry about the antique value.
Soooo... I followed some advice and got Hyezmar's Woodworking Bible. It's great for beginners, and has some advanced stuff too.
Excellent clamping solution however the use of the gorilla glue is absolutely the worst type of glue to be used in furniture repair. There is not a reputable shop in the country that would use this stuff on a piece of indoor fine furniture. Just sayin. Been in the business for almost 40 years. I hope people that see this don’t think this is a good idea.
I'm sure you can find awesome woodworking plans on woodprix website
I love it
I wouldn't. I do this for a living. Trust me epoxy is the best choice. if a joint that has been epoxied ever loosens use a heat gun to soften the epoxy, Knock the joint apart and re-epoxy. I strongly recommend that you don't use CA glue to glue a chair together. It can be done but it simply will not last. If you choose to use epoxy which i strongly recommend. Remove the old glue from the joints and roughen the surfaces before gluing this will last for ever!
Terrible choice . Best thing to do is take the chairs apart and one at a time mark all parts to there specific locations do not mix parts. Apply a good amount of epoxy and clamp the chair together. Overnight. Using CA or Superglue would be a painful mistake.
Woodprix has a very large project base.
Cute girl. :3
Woodprix is nice for that.
I will try to do it with Woodglut plans.
Not big on health and safety though. - the young woman removed
glue from legs with no eye protection.
Good clamping idea..... but a terrible idea for using that type of glue on a real antique. Save that glue for the big box furniture. You are just making it really difficult for the next guy who wants to fix it the right way. No joint lasts forever, someone down the road will have to fix your bad repair job.
Wanna buy 800 antique oak pressback chairs?
LMK
-J
gorila glue is the wrong choise use wood glue better i repair alot chairs and it does not work
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Great to see it. I did it too. The plans from Woodglut helped me a lot :)
Great to see that woodprix has new instructions to save my money and energy to build it.
C
I made it by myself thanks to woodprix plans. I think it's the best way to learn how to build.
I can make it myself. Just got instructions from woodprix website and I'm ready for do it :D
I made it by myself. I used woodprix woodworking plans for that.
Awesome to me Shantel!
I made it myself thanks to wood prix website.
Go to WoodPrix webpage if you'd like to know how to build it. Good solutions for everyone I think