I got a free 72 sunfish that still had 3 or 4 inches of water in it. This was just 2 years ago, and it was all original, so I decided to rebuild it all. I found info on the internet on the process. I removed the aluminum trim and used a putty knife and hammer to separate the deck from the hull. From the stern to about 6 inches aft of the footwell, and from the bow to about 6 inches ahead of the mast step. I pulled out the old foam, which would squeeze like a sponge. The biggest piece weighed about 20 pounds. I replaced it all with expanded polystyrene board, the type used for insulating sheds and cellars. I glued it 3 pieces thick to make wide blocks, and cut to the shape of the old pieces. Closed it all up and its better than new, with its lighter weight, stiffer blocks, and 100% waterproof foam. I still leave the inspection port open when storing the boat so that if there is any moisture in there, it will dry out.
Hi Lee, This is a inexpensive way to dry out a boat. Put inspection ports in the front and back on the deck. put the boat in the sun on a hot day and put black plastic bags cut open on the sides to be single layer covering 100% of the boat. it bakes it like an oven. The more sun the better! Your friend 4400
Now that I have been watching you awhile and have found my Old/ new Sunfish, it would be really useful to see how to install some of these upgrades. Really enjoy your videos.
Your channel is helping me get back into sunfish racing. My '78 run-of-the-mill orange stripe sunfish became a min weight real racer back in about 1998'ish or so. The inspection port venting took a while, the boat was left out over winter and the next season was min weight - yahoo. One spring, first race of the season, got the boat ready, went racing, and when I came back in and unscrewed the inspection ports a mouse was looking up at me like "What the %*#$ were you doing to me?" I just asked him why he thought he didn't need to hike. All your other upgrades - yes, they're a must.
@@LeeSideSailing He thought he found Shangri la but was rudely awakened to the fact he had to work for his keep. I don't live too far from you, raced Thistles at regattas at Sayville. Same for Westport CT. Looking at getting back into the sport, find a Sunfish. The old addage, I should never have sold the one I had - I got it all up to snuff for racing. However, If I am not going to use a boat, I would rather have it used and someone do the upkeep. They get old whether you sail them or not, is my thinking. Cheers - great channel.
where did you put the ports looking to offset on the front aft of the mast socket to also access the kleat and halyard fairlead and aft centered to also access the Gudgeon plate back ups
@@SailingAngus That makes complete sense. Put the inspection port where it makes it easier to reach the repair areas, within reason. I prefer to still keep it relatively in the centerline of the boat
Depending on your arm length. Most 6 times inch porzse can access the mast and Mass cleat and fairlead where the inspection poured is behind the splash guard enter in the center
For beginners, I'd recommend a clean, airtight bleach bottle on a loop of string, fastened at the top of the mast, as "training wheels" for the first few times going out. A mast tip float like this costs almost nothing, but could save you the expense of a bent mast if the Sunfish turtles in shallow water. The mast top float means the boat can't flip all the way upside-down, and in shallow water if that happens, the mast could dig into the bottom of the lake or beach and then wind and wave pressure could exert damaging force on the mast. Masts cost like $200. The bleach bottle is free once you've used up the contents. I say bleach or detergent bottle, because they are made of a thicker, stronger plastic than say, plastic milk jugs, and won't degrade quickly in the strong UV rays on the water... I use one every time, makes righting a capsized boat easier, doesn't affect performance that much. You can buy professional mast tip floats of course, for more money.
A bleach bottle might be a bit large. A less conspicuous mast float would be a pool "noodle". Use a 2-3 ft section and tie it to the upper front spar using any method. I've had a SF for 30 yrs. It is very easy to right. Key thing is to make sure you are heading INTO the wind and/or the mainsheet is not tangled or in a cleat. Practicing tip overs is a great idea. Now if I could only get a larger sail! The 75 sq ft sail is slow in light winds.
In 51 yrs, I have never used main sheet hangers, and don't plan to. Never had a gooseneck adjuster either. I agree with # 4 100%. In my mind, the most important thing you can do is the universal joint on the tiller/tiller ext. I have never had a daggerboard come out completely, and float away. I love my homemade daggerboard slot dolly, and I've sent you a pic of it. I used to push my boat 1/2 mile to a launch site. Piece of cake!
I really enjoyed the Video. Started Sailing on My first Sunfish when I was 6 years old. Now at 63+ years Old, have 6 in my Fleet and teach people how to Sail. I live in Beaufort SC and can walk out of my front door , walk 30' to the Seawall and go. Tidal dependent, twice a Day. Well keep up the Great Video's Sir. Arrgh. Love My Jolly Roger , Skull and X-Bones Sail. Everyone around here knows when I "Captain Morgan" Retired, is in the Water. Arrgh. CM
@@LeeSideSailing Good morning Sir. I also build R/C planes and boats. 525 planes, 30 Drones , 30 Boats of which one is a 3' sunfish , with a weighed daggerboard. A lot of Fun.
Lee, great tips, thanks. I agree that the sheet hangers are vital. Wish my 15 ft catboat had one. Anyway, let me suggest the CHEAPEST easiest to install hangers. Zip ties. Try 'em, you'll like 'em.
Lee, that's great advice on the Sunfish. I agree with all your points especially the bungee retainer for the daggerboard and always wearing the PFDs. The Seitech / Dynamic-style dolly is so much better than the one my Dad bought in 1970 that went into the daggerboard trunk. It actually damaged the fiberglass inside the trunk and created a source for leaks. My YC has nine Sunfish and it takes some attention to get them ready and keep them on the water!
All this sounds great. Can you tell I was looking off a diagram naming things? :) So grateful for the encouragement! We found someone who has a lot of experience with boats/repair and will take the boats out next week for him to look at. Baby steps!
Inherited a old rotting boat. The foam inside was soaked boat weighed near 200 pounds. Installed larger ports and two solar powered fans for a summer and it went down to 120.
How I dried out my boat: The interior foam (especially the urethane glue portion holding the flotation foam in place) can soak up and hold water a long time, even when you don't see puddles or a trickle coming out the drain hole. I used clip-on little desk fans from walmart or an office supply or dollar store: they fit the inspection port holes well. I have one blowing in, and the other blowing out to make a stronger draft from front to back. At night, I put a 50-watt incandescent (not LED or fluorescent) light bulb inside a safety cage, and left that on inside the hull all night with the fans on. Kind of like an easy-bake oven. The lower wattage works slower but makes no risk of melting anything. I also have spare inspection port covers, clear ones, that I have drilled vent holes into: lets the moisture out, but critters and debris can't get in. I use those for storage time. Some folks have tried a speed method using an electric leaf blower to push more air thru the boat faster: I do not recommend this.
This is a great list of things to do/add to your new used sunfish. I have a couple more suggestions: 1. Mast cleat to take the load off the deck cleat when securing your halyard. 2. For a pre 71 Sunfish, I recommend updating the rudder to the “new” rudder Mount and mechanism.
Excellent tips, Lee! I've actually used them all, and will try the new AeroSouth mainsheet hanger which I hadn't seen before. Makes a good loaner-boat-borrowing gift too. Thank you.
As someone with 3D printer, the main sheet hangers must be sealed after purchase. If you do not, water will mold and rot between the layers. If you live in a cold place it will freeze and spereate the layers. Polyurethane sealant works.
Awesome video thanks for sharing we picked up a Sunfish Sailboat ⛵ mint condition off a older couple for free they don't use it anymore and would like to see someone else enjoy it I'm new to Sailboats I have a fishing boat and a speed boat but I haven't saild my wife has experience sailing her dad owned a sail boat
I bought a nasty banged up sunfish. I fixed it up and realised hey this dam cockpit is too small. I cut the deck out 16'' behind the mast & the same fwd of the transom. I found some soaking wet heavy flotation & removed it + made air tight fore & aft bulkheads. It lightened the little craft and lowered the center of gravity. Bought a new sail with a window and did a little voodoo with the mast & boom. It was fast & fun.
JAWS insert is perfect! Love the sailor at 6:27 tehehehe, but who's got that screeching voice shouting to Vito LOL! Your channel is great. Love the tips you give!
Basically it’s some sort of loop. Attached to the boom by Velcro, tape or clip on like an AeroSouth.net hanger. Above the cock out area. In between the sail clips. The loop can be flexible or hard. Like an inch or two of hose, film canister with the bottom cut out. Or something g similar.
lee, for a recreational sailor, i'd love to hear more about how and when to adjust the gooseneck. and when to change the sail height at the upper boom connection. not racing, but some days are easy peasy and some gusty days its like a fight out there.
Thanks for watching. For most recreational sailors if you can invest in an adjustable gooseneck, that would be the easiest way to adjust the power as the winds change. I would recommend the adjuster before using a Jens rig. Depending on your size, strength and abilities and the winds will determine where to set the gooseneck. For most people, recreational sailors start at 16-18 inches. And when the wind starts to pick up pull the gooseneck further back on the boom, inch by inch. When very windy you may be back as far as 24”. Hope this helps!!
@@LeeSideSailing Why not just let the sheet out and let the sail luff a bit in heavy winds or a squall? Regarding a waterlogged boat? This is a major issue as you said. Cutting two 4 in ports is a great idea. A computer fan is not very strong. I'd suggest using a hairdryer on warm and leave it there for days. As you know, there is styrofoam inside these boats which help support the deck. Some say these foam pieces can become "waterlogged". Taking the entre deck off to replace is a big job. I suggest carefully examining the bottom of the boat for cracks or leaks. There are many marine expoxies that can easily patch holes or cracks. Easy to do. Then look at the slot where the dagger board goes. Any obvious cracks? Epoxy or fiberglass resin. A SF should weight 130 lbs. If it weighs more, there is water inside. Do you have any ideas about where the water can get inside and patching ideas?
Ho Peter…. I have seen air tests with water getting in everywhere in cluding, but not limited to, the hull/dexk seam, the foot well at the bailer, bow handle and bridle attachment points, splash rail, inspection ports and drain hole. As far as patching, depends on area- Quick little dings? Gel coat if no fiberglass damage, marine text, west system, polyester resin with fiberglass- All depends in one’s skill time, availability, effort and desire to work in the boat! :).
@@LeeSideSailing When U say "air tests" do you mean blowing colored air or smoke into the hull and seeing where the air leaks out? The 1970s version I have has a 1 in screw plug on the port side deck. Might be good for blowing some smoke inside.
Hi again Lee. Thanks for your encouraging responses! WOW! We sailed our yard with the Sunfish (78) and Minifish (75). We rigged and "unrigged" a few times and I think we have all the right pieces for both... I noticed on the '78 Sunfish we only have a metal eye-loop (retention line kit?). It worked to rig the sheet through, but is tight. The online videos spoke of a "ratchet block". Is this possible to add onto the retention line kit as an upgrade? Is it vital we do it? Are we fine without it? Also, both screws holding down the tiller bridle on one side pulled out of the hull/eyestraps when my loving husband used the bridle to lift the boat (heavy sigh). Can we use some kind of caulk/puddy to help the screws purchase and stay? Or...? Finally, my 6' gal friend and I (not 6') cannot lift the Sunfish off the double decker trailer as a duo. We don't want to invest in a dolly etc. before we know if the boats will "work" etc. Can we use a used jet ski dolly that is at our disposal, or do we need to enlist muscular people to help us to/from the water for our first couple sails? We want to use our money smartly and slowly. Thanks so much. We don't know any sailers here in Southern Indiana yet, and appreciate your advice! Our learning curve is more like a wall right now. We watched the Right On trailer video and are completely smitten, but again moving slowly...
Congratulations in your land sail!! Smart! Where is this metal eye loop? Is it a brass hook on the front of the cockpit lip? If so. You can use that to “jam” the mainsheet into…. Thats how they originally sailed…. One doesnt “NEED” a ratchet block, but sailing with one is easier, especially when the wind picks up. (Im not sure what you mean by a “retention line kit”.). As far as the screws, if the backing plate is still under the deck, try to screw the loop back in with some silicone (to keep water out, this is NOT an adhesive). Maybe you will get lucky and it will hold…. Bit if not, you may be able to put some resin, epoxy in there and maybe that MAY give it some hold- Ideally you want to have a block of wood underneath. You can use a jet ski dolly if it works…. Good luck!
Great info. FYI - The most recent Sunfish class rules don't say how many or how big the mainsheet hanger is as long as it stays between the two mainsheet blocks on the boom. Which, they, themselves, can be moved anywhere you want, per rules. You can therefore use one long hanger between the blocks.
Just found you on CZcams and love your videos. I have a sunfish that I purchased 5 years ago from a local racing club in great shape and I’m re-learning to sail. This old boat has a wood tiller with the old fashioned extender so will be replacing it with the universal joint and 33” extender. I’m also considering a new dagger board after seeing your other video on that. My boat has an original (I believe) wooden dagger board in beautiful shape but is very heavy and has a vertical leading edge and square “handle” with a clip in the side that keeps it in the slot (whatever that’s called). I’m thinking the board you profiled will be a big upgrade, yes? I am currently using duct tape for main sheet hangers but will be upgrading to the ones from Aerosouth. I also would like some sort of foot straps in the boat but need advice on what ones and how/where to install. I don’t race but feel like they would be helpful. Another problem I need to solve is turtling. This darn boat goes over so fast and turtled both times it heeled, and I can’t get it upright myself. Last Sunday it took help from a few kind guys on pontoon boats to assist. I am a 60 year old woman so maybe it’s just me but the people in your videos (even the 21 minutes of terror) made it look so easy. Thanks again for all of the great advice in your videos! I’ll be replacing my sail soon so will be reviewing the “knots” video.
Thanks Kathy and congratulations on your new boat and getting out there to sail. I agree with what you said with the Daggerboard. It will make a lot of difference. (Plus it’s longer so it helps righting a boat). To address your turtleing, AeroSouth also has developed a “bob” to put on the top of your upper spar and prevents turtling. In a pinch you can use an empty plastic bottle with handle and just tie it up there or try a pool noodle. Keep sailing snd you will get used to how the boat handles. And you can anticipate when you would capsize and prevent it. Thanks for watching!!
In my 50+ yrs of Sunfishing, I’ve never heard of a sheet line hanger, or a gooseneck/mast adjuster. My sheet line is tensioned the entire time I’m under way. Seems totally unnecessary. KISS! Keep It Simple Stupid! My tiller extension universal is stainless steel and accepts the wooden extention. I’ll agree with you 100% on this one. We won’t even get into the strengthening of the spar I do with an internal sleeves, or the extra dowels I glue into the rudder & daggerboard to prevent future splitting. Or my gimbal mounted beer holders with keep my beer salt free if I should turn turtle, or the inlay design work I’ve done on my wooden parts. PS. Clove hitch is the only knot you need on a Sunfish. Cheers!
I would love to see the beer holders and inlay designs!! Some sort of Mainsheet hanger is definitely recommended and can be very inexpensive- The sheet is under tension, until one jibes, and can catch a PFD, head or worse- someone’s favorite hat. :). Cheers! Thanks for the comment :).
Al I would be very interested in seeing your modifications‼️ I especially would like to learn more about your Beer swivel holders. I hope you see this, and kindly respond back to me. Thanks again for sharing……….. Dave
Any hints on racing (or even just sailing) a Sunfish as a team? I have a friend who doesn’t know how to sail, and who wants to start out as “crew”. All of the CZcams videos I watch with two people in a Sunfish make it look like a train wreck!
Couole hints: Make sure the boom is a few inches higher…. Before sailing talk to the crew and tell them where to sit…. The more experienced person needs to balamce the boat. During tacks Anticipate the path where your crew will go… inder the boom and make sure they clear the main sheet! Hope this helps.
Love your videos. Enjoyed the tips but you did not explain how to use the truckers knot nor the slip knot. I'm an experienced sailor, 50+ years and a former trucker and I can't figure out what exactly you are doing with your knot. Are you just bypassing the horn cleat and using it as a pad eye and securing with a truckers hitch? That would be a good idea.
The idea of the truckers hitch is to be able to go from lifting the sail, all the way to the top of the mast, then take the halyard to the deck fairlead- back up to the slip/truckers hitch. Then back to the fairlead and then put tension in the halyard. Then cleat it off. The truckers hitch used this was helps the sail stay up in its position- Without one when you sail. The rig starts to slip down towards the deck. Hope this helps! Thanks for the comment. :)
Hola, gracias por los videos son muy instructivos. Tengo un Sunfish que tiene daños en el casco, también los bordes abiertos en la proa. ¿Tienes información de cuál es la mejor manera para reparar? Gracias desde Uruguay
This is translated to Spanish by google translate. Hola, gracias por tu mensaje. No tengo información hasta ahora para solucionar el problema con su barco. Se puede hacer, un buen trabajo de preparación en resinas de fibra de vidrio, epoxi o fibra de vidrio y muchas abrazaderas para barcos. Lo he visto hecho antes y es posible.
I just got a used sunfish, it needed a few hull patches and the sprayed in foam was a little water logged. Right now I have the hull up on saw horses covered with a tarp and I am running a dehumidifier under the tarp. I don't know how long it will take to dry but it seems to be working.
Hey Lee, is there a trailer that is a combo with a dolly? I trailer my boat to different locations but some places you need a hand dolly versus putting in w car and trailer. Hope my question makes sense! Thanks
Here is a popular one that works well. rightontrailer.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwub-HBhCyARIsAPctr7yOMSzn37SddFts3jOzvLLvB4SLC57qb2cg9nL_DCk-ErixtqVNX9saAlmkEALw_wcB
Hey Lee, I have a universal joint on my tiller extension - this is my first time using one on a Sunfish. If I happen to let go, the extension erratically bounces away from me and I'm scrambling to get it back, usually at a very inopportune moment. Ummmm... is that how they all are? Or should I be looking into changing it out? Thanks!
Nope. You are right! They bounce around in the middle of tacking if you let go! And then you and I are scrambling to grab it while the boat is still turning and of course it’s further away from us. Etc etc. don’t fret, don’t change it. Try not to let go of it :). With a little practice it will be come natural :). It happens to everyone :)
If you mean having an additional backing plate on the deck’s bullseye fair lead.. there is no restrictions on backing washers or plates to prevent pulling out of deck hardware.
@@LeeSideSailingHi Lee. Do you have any tips for filling the starboard drain hole? Mine is missing the brass and is just a hole in the fiberglass (3 if you count the two pinholes)
Hi, Lee. Thanks for this channel, I have found many useful tips. On this video, when you held up the tiller, there was a short, white line at the rudder end. What do you use that line for? Thanks.
Hi mike. That white line is there for when the. Tiller extension is being stored or transported it holds it next to the tiller- so it doesn’t flop around. Thanks!
@@LeeSideSailing Thanks. Getting one of those universal tiller extensions is on my list. I am still using the original rudder, tiller (and extension), and daggerboard on the 1970 sunfish I bought a few years ago. After seeing your review of the AeroSouth (sp?) vertical rudder and reading a comment in a sunfish forum, I flipped my rudder around so it is nearly vertical (had to drill four new holes). Haven't sailed with it yet, but I expect greatly reduced weather helm in higher winds based on what you said in your video. Also, I am hoping that my rudder will stop popping out so often in high winds.
That’s exactly why I made a trailer video…. And this is one question I ask when people ask me, “what boat should I get?” I ask them, what do you want to use it for, where will you keep it, and how will you get it from the buying point to its new home. :). Thanks for watching!
There are many different types. The rubber ones can do the most positions. The ones woth hinges, do up and down and side to side. The old stock with a single bolt are the ones that should be replaced for a better sailing experience.
I'm interested in getting a tiller extension but they come in different lengths, any suggestions? They come in 30", 33", 36", 42" and 48" on sunfishdirect. Also, is brand important? Most of the ones there don't mention the brand but there is one Harken one available. It recommends a 42" length for sunfish but that seems a lot longer than the factory wooden extension...
The length depends on a few things. I am 6 foot tall and when hiked out and forward I like a 42”. Most people who have used the extension say it’s too long. Brand is not as important in my opinion. 30 I think is too short. One way to figure it out is to lean out as far as you want to off your boat. And where ever the measurement you are comfortable holding the tiller extension from the end of the tiller. ( when the RUDDER in FULLY DOWN) is the length you should get. In other words I like to be able to hold the teller extension in the middle of my body. The end of the tiller when. Rudder is fully down is about 42”. Hope this helps. :)
Do people drill out their gooseneck when using a quick-release latch? I have the latch, supposedly for a Sunfish, but the threaded shaft won't fit into my brass gooseneck.
No. You don’t have to drill it out. Unless the bolt is stuck in there. I have experienced this once- The hole in the gooseneck may be too small, in possibly an older gooseneck OR the quick release screw is too fat. See if you yoi can get a new quick release with narrower screw or new goose neck (yeah. I know. That’s not an ideal option). Good luck.
Depending on your preference. And height. Long would be 36 inches. And then go down from there. 30 is extremely common. Another way to do it. Is to set up you mr rudder on a dolly and drop the rudder in its normal sailing position. Measure the length from the front of the cock pot to the area where you want to attach the extension to the tiller (usually a couple of inches from the end and on the top of the tiller). You can go a couple inches longer or a few shorter. Depending on your comfort level when hiking. Hope this helps.
Awesome video. I bought mine a couple of weeks ago and the sagging main sheet was driving me crazy. My daggerboard is all wood and doesn't have a hole in it for a bungee cord. How do people handle these? Thanks
Many people make them out of golf clubs, aluminum poles, or even old ski poles. A quick google search found the average cost of one would be about $50... so if you’re handy you can make one. If you do a Google search “tiller extensions sailboat” there will be all sorts of extensions.
You can buy an universal from intensity sails for around $15, then take that to your local home store and get about 4’ of pvc pipe that the universal will fit into. Probably the cheapest way to build your own.
You can say that, but others may say no…. Keels are usually non-movable, has weight to act as ballast to stabilize the boat snd to act as a wing to help with tracking…. The dagger board acts more as a wing to provide tracking, but less to help stabilize by ways of weight plus it is movable.
Just received my tiller extension. It came with a pre installed unerversual joint. I am a but surprised it is just a rubber flexible joint, and not some kind of ball joint. What seems to be the lifespan on one of these joints?
The most common is about 33 inches. You can go all the way to the front of the cockpit if you want and need it maybe even a couple of inches past the cockpit but many people think that feels too long if you do that.
I personally like quarter inch main sheet about 30 feet no less than 28 feet. This will cover 98% of my sailing.. However if you have a hard time holding lines you might want to go up a little bit thicker.
I just bought my first boat. It has no year markings. I think it’s pre 73. Problem is the tiller bracket is stainless but has unslotted holes. How does the tiller attach. I can’t figure it out!
Can you post a picture on facebook? It may be possible to have the two different generations... does the tiller that attaches to the rudder have a spring?
@@LeeSideSailing Thanks Lee. Great site and videos! Unfortunately I don’t Facebook. I like to be a ghost. Let me lay it out though because I can’t figure this boats timeline. She has the short cockpit with fore and aft white racing stripes on a medium blue deck. No serial number or plate. Just some old adhesive where a plate may have been on the forward cockpit bulkhead. The rudder gudgion is a stainless two piece, with a hinge at the top and to holes where it looks like the rudder should mount. The rudder hardware has a spring and is consistent with new style pictures I’ve seen. Also the deck and hull have not been repaired and are original in good condition. I know this because I work with fiberglass professionally and have looked closely at this boat. She has not been converted from the old style rudder. However interestingly there is a small piece of metal rub rail missing above the rudder mount. One other thing is the fish on the sail is crazy looking, more like a giant ocean sunfish. Welcoming some input. Thanks!
@andrew now that I’m a little more awake. I think the hinge will be on the boat-- Which would make it an “old” style bracket. The part with the spring should be on the rudder head- which is a new style. These two don’t come together. That’s why you would have issues. Watch my “how to buy a used sunfish videos” and it clearly shows the two systems. Maybe the second video part two. Hope this helps. If you want sunfishdirect.com sells hedge on brackets for the spring type rudder head.
with Me? Yes. Is this Video for me? maybe not. Its Not OK!!!. #1 very much so, duck tape. electric tape, zipties... /-/ great advice. leaky boat,,, your boat, wet dry vac. !!!. sponge, dehu, garage kept, or let it rot! All of them leak, and I consider it #2. Goose neck, like button. A MUST HAVE!!!! wait didn't I invent 2 diff versions of those? Yeah, I did...#3 A must have. yes, a must have. if it breaks, the tail of a mainsheet will work. but,,,,, Not ideal. It only pulls up. I have 50 tiller extension joints for sale. :P, #4 Bungy is Much higher than an extension. Bungy is LARGE!!!!! and this IMHO should be ranked #2. As way before we invented gooseneck adjusters, tiller extensions, and balanced leeches and jens rig, and even a water tight boat. We HAD to have the Bungy for the board... IMHO, I consider it #1-2. #5 I agree!!!! and learn a figure 8 and a bowline!!!! #6 dollies are the Bomb.... or it proves you have no clue.! so yes , I agree!. #7 Lee is a great guy! #8 Lee is right! #9 I am better than Lee! :P all in jest buddy.
sunfishdirect.com is giving my viewers a 10% off any order over $100.00, just use coupon code "lee" offer good through June 6, 2021
Is there a new code? I will be dropping some bucks soon with them.
I got a free 72 sunfish that still had 3 or 4 inches of water in it. This was just 2 years ago, and it was all original, so I decided to rebuild it all. I found info on the internet on the process. I removed the aluminum trim and used a putty knife and hammer to separate the deck from the hull. From the stern to about 6 inches aft of the footwell, and from the bow to about 6 inches ahead of the mast step. I pulled out the old foam, which would squeeze like a sponge. The biggest piece weighed about 20 pounds. I replaced it all with expanded polystyrene board, the type used for insulating sheds and cellars. I glued it 3 pieces thick to make wide blocks, and cut to the shape of the old pieces. Closed it all up and its better than new, with its lighter weight, stiffer blocks, and 100% waterproof foam. I still leave the inspection port open when storing the boat so that if there is any moisture in there, it will dry out.
sounds great! thats some heavy foam!
Hi Lee, This is a inexpensive way to dry out a boat. Put inspection ports in the front and back on the deck. put the boat in the sun on a hot day and put black plastic bags cut open on the sides to be single layer covering 100% of the boat. it bakes it like an oven. The more sun the better! Your friend 4400
Yes. Thanks for the comment and you’re right, the black bags plus fans would be the best.
Now that I have been watching you awhile and have found my Old/ new Sunfish, it would be really useful to see how to install some of these upgrades. Really enjoy your videos.
Anything in particular?
Your channel is helping me get back into sunfish racing.
My '78 run-of-the-mill orange stripe sunfish became a min weight real racer back in about 1998'ish or so. The inspection port venting took a while, the boat was left out over winter and the next season was min weight - yahoo. One spring, first race of the season, got the boat ready, went racing, and when I came back in and unscrewed the inspection ports a mouse was looking up at me like "What the %*#$ were you doing to me?" I just asked him why he thought he didn't need to hike.
All your other upgrades - yes, they're a must.
Oh awesome story!!! Hope the mouse hikes more for you. ;)
@@LeeSideSailing He thought he found Shangri la but was rudely awakened to the fact he had to work for his keep. I don't live too far from you, raced Thistles at regattas at Sayville. Same for Westport CT. Looking at getting back into the sport, find a Sunfish. The old addage, I should never have sold the one I had - I got it all up to snuff for racing. However, If I am not going to use a boat, I would rather have it used and someone do the upkeep. They get old whether you sail them or not, is my thinking. Cheers - great channel.
where did you put the ports looking to offset on the front aft of the mast socket to also access the kleat and halyard fairlead and aft centered to also access the Gudgeon plate back ups
@@SailingAngus That makes complete sense. Put the inspection port where it makes it easier to reach the repair areas, within reason. I prefer to still keep it relatively in the centerline of the boat
Depending on your arm length. Most 6 times inch porzse can access the mast and Mass cleat and fairlead where the inspection poured is behind the splash guard enter in the center
For beginners, I'd recommend a clean, airtight bleach bottle on a loop of string, fastened at the top of the mast, as "training wheels" for the first few times going out. A mast tip float like this costs almost nothing, but could save you the expense of a bent mast if the Sunfish turtles in shallow water. The mast top float means the boat can't flip all the way upside-down, and in shallow water if that happens, the mast could dig into the bottom of the lake or beach and then wind and wave pressure could exert damaging force on the mast. Masts cost like $200. The bleach bottle is free once you've used up the contents. I say bleach or detergent bottle, because they are made of a thicker, stronger plastic than say, plastic milk jugs, and won't degrade quickly in the strong UV rays on the water... I use one every time, makes righting a capsized boat easier, doesn't affect performance that much. You can buy professional mast tip floats of course, for more money.
A bleach bottle might be a bit large. A less conspicuous mast float would be a pool "noodle". Use a 2-3 ft section and tie it to the upper front spar using any method. I've had a SF for 30 yrs. It is very easy to right. Key thing is to make sure you are heading INTO the wind and/or the mainsheet is not tangled or in a cleat. Practicing tip overs is a great idea. Now if I could only get a larger sail! The 75 sq ft sail is slow in light winds.
In 51 yrs, I have never used main sheet hangers, and don't plan to. Never had a gooseneck adjuster either. I agree with # 4 100%. In my mind, the most important thing you can do is the universal joint on the tiller/tiller ext. I have never had a daggerboard come out completely, and float away. I love my homemade daggerboard slot dolly, and I've sent you a pic of it. I used to push my boat 1/2 mile to a launch site. Piece of cake!
I see so many peolle get caught up without mainsheet hangers, so the small investment in time to put them on is worth one capsize :)
I really enjoyed the Video. Started Sailing on My first Sunfish when I was 6 years old. Now at 63+ years Old, have 6 in my Fleet and teach people how to Sail. I live in Beaufort SC and can walk out of my front door , walk 30' to the Seawall and go. Tidal dependent, twice a Day.
Well keep up the Great Video's Sir. Arrgh. Love My Jolly Roger , Skull and X-Bones Sail.
Everyone around here knows when I "Captain Morgan" Retired, is in the Water. Arrgh. CM
Thank you!! So excellent to hear you’re sailing in such a nice location! 63 years young, I sailed against Dick Heinl this summer and he’s 94!
@@LeeSideSailing Good morning Sir. I also build R/C planes and boats. 525 planes, 30 Drones , 30 Boats of which one is a 3' sunfish , with a weighed daggerboard. A lot of Fun.
Wow!!!
2:14 LOL that's the best part of sailing! :) but that happened because his sail was rigged too low ( raise the gooseneck a little higher)
Lee, great tips, thanks. I agree that the sheet hangers are vital. Wish my 15 ft catboat had one. Anyway, let me suggest the CHEAPEST easiest to install hangers. Zip ties.
Try 'em, you'll like 'em.
Thanks Bill!
Hey Lee! Great information and content here. I just picked up a 1990 sunfish in outstanding condition kept in a garage it’s whole life!
That is sweet!
Lee, that's great advice on the Sunfish. I agree with all your points especially the bungee retainer for the daggerboard and always wearing the PFDs. The Seitech / Dynamic-style dolly is so much better than the one my Dad bought in 1970 that went into the daggerboard trunk. It actually damaged the fiberglass inside the trunk and created a source for leaks. My YC has nine Sunfish and it takes some attention to get them ready and keep them on the water!
Thank you. I appreciate your comets. And never liked those centerboard dollies!
All this sounds great. Can you tell I was looking off a diagram naming things? :) So grateful for the encouragement! We found someone who has a lot of experience with boats/repair and will take the boats out next week for him to look at. Baby steps!
Excellent!
Inherited a old rotting boat. The foam inside was soaked boat weighed near 200 pounds. Installed larger ports and two solar powered fans for a summer and it went down to 120.
Wow. Great job!!
How I dried out my boat: The interior foam (especially the urethane glue portion holding the flotation foam in place) can soak up and hold water a long time, even when you don't see puddles or a trickle coming out the drain hole. I used clip-on little desk fans from walmart or an office supply or dollar store: they fit the inspection port holes well. I have one blowing in, and the other blowing out to make a stronger draft from front to back. At night, I put a 50-watt incandescent (not LED or fluorescent) light bulb inside a safety cage, and left that on inside the hull all night with the fans on. Kind of like an easy-bake oven. The lower wattage works slower but makes no risk of melting anything. I also have spare inspection port covers, clear ones, that I have drilled vent holes into: lets the moisture out, but critters and debris can't get in. I use those for storage time. Some folks have tried a speed method using an electric leaf blower to push more air thru the boat faster: I do not recommend this.
Leaf blower is way too much power!!! Warmth and decent circulation does extremely well.
Thanks Lee, great tips!
Thank you for making videos. I just bought a 78 Sunfish and you have been very helpful. Great job!
Thank you!!! Comments oike this want me to make more and try to keep getting better :)
This is a great list of things to do/add to your new used sunfish. I have a couple more suggestions:
1. Mast cleat to take the load off the deck cleat when securing your halyard.
2. For a pre 71 Sunfish, I recommend updating the rudder to the “new” rudder Mount and mechanism.
Nice! Thanks for the comment.
Is the mast cleat simply a matter of drilling a couple holes and filling them with pop rivets?
@@adamcrawford5724 yes or screws
C-Vane. They are epic. Help to see wind direction.. love mine!
Thx!
Excellent tips, Lee! I've actually used them all, and will try the new AeroSouth mainsheet hanger which I hadn't seen before. Makes a good loaner-boat-borrowing gift too. Thank you.
Thanks Vicki. Most advanced sailors, like yourself, would have these upgrades:).
Where can you buy the AeroSouth mainsheet hangers?
AeroSouth.net
As someone with 3D printer, the main sheet hangers must be sealed after purchase. If you do not, water will mold and rot between the layers. If you live in a cold place it will freeze and spereate the layers. Polyurethane sealant works.
Thanks for the advice. I’m going to forward this to Aero south and see what they say. :).
Thanks!
Just bought a new “used” Sunfish for the kids and I to enjoy, I look forward to learning all I can from your videos!
Scott
Congratulations! Will put out more videos aimed at families like yours :)
I’d add to the adjustable gooseneck: with a quick release you can move it in order to rinse off thoroughly and help avoid galvanic corrosion.
Great video, good info, thanks. Haha, ordered my dynamic dolly 5 days before I saw this video, glad you endorsed it.
Worth every penny!!! Saves the back:)
Thanks for the tips and bonuses!
Awesome video thanks for sharing we picked up a Sunfish Sailboat ⛵ mint condition off a older couple for free they don't use it anymore and would like to see someone else enjoy it I'm new to Sailboats I have a fishing boat and a speed boat but I haven't saild my wife has experience sailing her dad owned a sail boat
Congratulations! Enjoy the journey of learning to sail!
Dude this is fantastic!! Totally subscribed. Sunfish-O-Meter LOL…
Thanks!!
I bought a nasty banged up sunfish. I fixed it up and realised hey this dam cockpit is too small. I cut the deck out 16'' behind the mast & the same fwd of the transom. I found some soaking wet heavy flotation & removed it + made air tight fore & aft bulkheads. It lightened the little craft and lowered the center of gravity. Bought a new sail with a window and did a little voodoo with the mast & boom. It was fast & fun.
Awesome. Lots of people love to tinker with the boat! Love how you made it your own:).
Great video,I did hit that like button and Sunfish O Meter scale is awsome. I definitely will get the boom hangers set up. Thanks.
Thanks for the comments!!
JAWS insert is perfect! Love the sailor at 6:27 tehehehe, but who's got that screeching voice shouting to Vito LOL! Your channel is great. Love the tips you give!
Thanks Sue! That was a fun day!
Wow this is so helpful, as I am starting my search for a used Sunfish!
Good luck...
:).
Would love more info on the main sheet hanger, how to use and install.
Basically it’s some sort of loop. Attached to the boom by Velcro, tape or clip on like an AeroSouth.net hanger. Above the cock out area. In between the sail clips. The loop can be flexible or hard. Like an inch or two of hose, film canister with the bottom cut out. Or something g similar.
lee, for a recreational sailor, i'd love to hear more about how and when to adjust the gooseneck. and when to change the sail height at the upper boom connection. not racing, but some days are easy peasy and some gusty days its like a fight out there.
Thanks for watching. For most recreational sailors if you can invest in an adjustable gooseneck, that would be the easiest way to adjust the power as the winds change. I would recommend the adjuster before using a Jens rig. Depending on your size, strength and abilities and the winds will determine where to set the gooseneck. For most people, recreational sailors start at 16-18 inches. And when the wind starts to pick up pull the gooseneck further back on the boom, inch by inch. When very windy you may be back as far as 24”. Hope this helps!!
@@LeeSideSailing Why not just let the sheet out and let the sail luff a bit in heavy winds or a squall? Regarding a waterlogged boat? This is a major issue as you said. Cutting two 4 in ports is a great idea. A computer fan is not very strong. I'd suggest using a hairdryer on warm and leave it there for days. As you know, there is styrofoam inside these boats which help support the deck. Some say these foam pieces can become "waterlogged". Taking the entre deck off to replace is a big job. I suggest carefully examining the bottom of the boat for cracks or leaks. There are many marine expoxies that can easily patch holes or cracks. Easy to do. Then look at the slot where the dagger board goes. Any obvious cracks? Epoxy or fiberglass resin. A SF should weight 130 lbs. If it weighs more, there is water inside. Do you have any ideas about where the water can get inside and patching ideas?
Ho Peter…. I have seen air tests with water getting in everywhere in cluding, but not limited to, the hull/dexk seam, the foot well at the bailer, bow handle and bridle attachment points, splash rail, inspection ports and drain hole. As far as patching, depends on area- Quick little dings? Gel coat if no fiberglass damage, marine text, west system, polyester resin with fiberglass- All depends in one’s skill time, availability, effort and desire to work in the boat! :).
@@LeeSideSailing When U say "air tests" do you mean blowing colored air or smoke into the hull and seeing where the air leaks out? The 1970s version I have has a 1 in screw plug on the port side deck. Might be good for blowing some smoke inside.
Not really. I mean soapy water and see where the air bubble inflate.
Hi again Lee. Thanks for your encouraging responses! WOW! We sailed our yard with the Sunfish (78) and Minifish (75). We rigged and "unrigged" a few times and I think we have all the right pieces for both... I noticed on the '78 Sunfish we only have a metal eye-loop (retention line kit?). It worked to rig the sheet through, but is tight. The online videos spoke of a "ratchet block". Is this possible to add onto the retention line kit as an upgrade? Is it vital we do it? Are we fine without it?
Also, both screws holding down the tiller bridle on one side pulled out of the hull/eyestraps when my loving husband used the bridle to lift the boat (heavy sigh). Can we use some kind of caulk/puddy to help the screws purchase and stay? Or...?
Finally, my 6' gal friend and I (not 6') cannot lift the Sunfish off the double decker trailer as a duo. We don't want to invest in a dolly etc. before we know if the boats will "work" etc. Can we use a used jet ski dolly that is at our disposal, or do we need to enlist muscular people to help us to/from the water for our first couple sails? We want to use our money smartly and slowly. Thanks so much. We don't know any sailers here in Southern Indiana yet, and appreciate your advice! Our learning curve is more like a wall right now. We watched the Right On trailer video and are completely smitten, but again moving slowly...
Congratulations in your land sail!! Smart! Where is this metal eye loop? Is it a brass hook on the front of the cockpit lip? If so. You can use that to “jam” the mainsheet into…. Thats how they originally sailed…. One doesnt “NEED” a ratchet block, but sailing with one is easier, especially when the wind picks up. (Im not sure what you mean by a “retention line kit”.).
As far as the screws, if the backing plate is still under the deck, try to screw the loop back in with some silicone (to keep water out, this is NOT an adhesive). Maybe you will get lucky and it will hold…. Bit if not, you may be able to put some resin, epoxy in there and maybe that MAY give it some hold- Ideally you want to have a block of wood underneath.
You can use a jet ski dolly if it works….
Good luck!
Great info.
FYI - The most recent Sunfish class rules don't say how many or how big the mainsheet hanger is as long as it stays between the two mainsheet blocks on the boom. Which, they, themselves, can be moved anywhere you want, per rules. You can therefore use one long hanger between the blocks.
true
Great info Lee! Just subscribed 😊
Thanks Ken!
I just finished watching your Jens rig video. Thank you so much. Just wondering, are there reasons to adjust the gooseneck with the Jens rig?
Happy new year!! The goose neck position is all aboit balancing the boat. Experiment betweek 14-18”. See what feels good to you!
Thanks for the info!
Have fun!
Good tips! Thanks.
Thanks for watching. And coming out with a new video very soon.
Great stuff! I have a Mini.
Awesome. /). Thank you!
If you are on the beach like at Lewes YC $400 beach wheels are worth it
Absolutely!!
Just found you on CZcams and love your videos. I have a sunfish that I purchased 5 years ago from a local racing club in great shape and I’m re-learning to sail. This old boat has a wood tiller with the old fashioned extender so will be replacing it with the universal joint and 33” extender. I’m also considering a new dagger board after seeing your other video on that. My boat has an original (I believe) wooden dagger board in beautiful shape but is very heavy and has a vertical leading edge and square “handle” with a clip in the side that keeps it in the slot (whatever that’s called). I’m thinking the board you profiled will be a big upgrade, yes? I am currently using duct tape for main sheet hangers but will be upgrading to the ones from Aerosouth. I also would like some sort of foot straps in the boat but need advice on what ones and how/where to install. I don’t race but feel like they would be helpful. Another problem I need to solve is turtling. This darn boat goes over so fast and turtled both times it heeled, and I can’t get it upright myself. Last Sunday it took help from a few kind guys on pontoon boats to assist. I am a 60 year old woman so maybe it’s just me but the people in your videos (even the 21 minutes of terror) made it look so easy. Thanks again for all of the great advice in your videos! I’ll be replacing my sail soon so will be reviewing the “knots” video.
Thanks Kathy and congratulations on your new boat and getting out there to sail. I agree with what you said with the Daggerboard. It will make a lot of difference. (Plus it’s longer so it helps righting a boat). To address your turtleing, AeroSouth also has developed a “bob” to put on the top of your upper spar and prevents turtling. In a pinch you can use an empty plastic bottle with handle and just tie it up there or try a pool noodle. Keep sailing snd you will get used to how the boat handles. And you can anticipate when you would capsize and prevent it. Thanks for watching!!
In my 50+ yrs of Sunfishing, I’ve never heard of a sheet line hanger, or a gooseneck/mast adjuster. My sheet line is tensioned the entire time I’m under way. Seems totally unnecessary. KISS! Keep It Simple Stupid! My tiller extension universal is stainless steel and accepts the wooden extention. I’ll agree with you 100% on this one. We won’t even get into the strengthening of the spar I do with an internal sleeves, or the extra dowels I glue into the rudder & daggerboard to prevent future splitting. Or my gimbal mounted beer holders with keep my beer salt free if I should turn turtle, or the inlay design work I’ve done on my wooden parts. PS. Clove hitch is the only knot you need on a Sunfish. Cheers!
I would love to see the beer holders and inlay designs!! Some sort of Mainsheet hanger is definitely recommended and can be very inexpensive- The sheet is under tension, until one jibes, and can catch a PFD, head or worse- someone’s favorite hat. :). Cheers! Thanks for the comment :).
Al I would be very interested in seeing your modifications‼️ I especially would like to learn more about your Beer swivel holders. I hope you see this, and kindly respond back to me. Thanks again for sharing……….. Dave
Any hints on racing (or even just sailing) a Sunfish as a team? I have a friend who doesn’t know how to sail, and who wants to start out as “crew”. All of the CZcams videos I watch with two people in a Sunfish make it look like a train wreck!
Couole hints: Make sure the boom is a few inches higher…. Before sailing talk to the crew and tell them where to sit…. The more experienced person needs to balamce the boat. During tacks Anticipate the path where your crew will go… inder the boom and make sure they clear the main sheet! Hope this helps.
@@LeeSideSailing thanks! It gives me a good place to start!
Love your videos. Enjoyed the tips but you did not explain how to use the truckers knot nor the slip knot. I'm an experienced sailor, 50+ years and a former trucker and I can't figure out what exactly you are doing with your knot. Are you just bypassing the horn cleat and using it as a pad eye and securing with a truckers hitch? That would be a good idea.
The idea of the truckers hitch is to be able to go from lifting the sail, all the way to the top of the mast, then take the halyard to the deck fairlead- back up to the slip/truckers hitch. Then back to the fairlead and then put tension in the halyard. Then cleat it off. The truckers hitch used this was helps the sail stay up in its position- Without one when you sail. The rig starts to slip down towards the deck. Hope this helps! Thanks for the comment. :)
Hola, gracias por los videos son muy instructivos. Tengo un Sunfish que tiene daños en el casco, también los bordes abiertos en la proa. ¿Tienes información de cuál es la mejor manera para reparar? Gracias desde Uruguay
This is translated to Spanish by google translate. Hola, gracias por tu mensaje. No tengo información hasta ahora para solucionar el problema con su barco. Se puede hacer, un buen trabajo de preparación en resinas de fibra de vidrio, epoxi o fibra de vidrio y muchas abrazaderas para barcos. Lo he visto hecho antes y es posible.
@@LeeSideSailing Gracias por tu respuesta. Si efectivamente, ya estoy trabajando en el asunto. Muchas gracias
I just got a used sunfish, it needed a few hull patches and the sprayed in foam was a little water logged. Right now I have the hull up on saw horses covered with a tarp and I am running a dehumidifier under the tarp. I don't know how long it will take to dry but it seems to be working.
Some people let it also sit in the sun too! But it will definitely get lighter. :)
Hey Lee, is there a trailer that is a combo with a dolly? I trailer my boat to different locations but some places you need a hand dolly versus putting in w car and trailer. Hope my question makes sense! Thanks
Here is a popular one that works well. rightontrailer.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwub-HBhCyARIsAPctr7yOMSzn37SddFts3jOzvLLvB4SLC57qb2cg9nL_DCk-ErixtqVNX9saAlmkEALw_wcB
Thanks Lee! So helpful 😊
Where can I purchase a spring that goes under the Mainshheet block
Many sailboat shops, intensity sails, dinghy shop and sunfish direct are popular options
Hey Lee, I have a universal joint on my tiller extension - this is my first time using one on a Sunfish. If I happen to let go, the extension erratically bounces away from me and I'm scrambling to get it back, usually at a very inopportune moment. Ummmm... is that how they all are? Or should I be looking into changing it out? Thanks!
Nope. You are right! They bounce around in the middle of tacking if you let go! And then you and I are scrambling to grab it while the boat is still turning and of course it’s further away from us. Etc etc. don’t fret, don’t change it. Try not to let go of it :). With a little practice it will be come natural :). It happens to everyone :)
@@LeeSideSailing Lol! Thanks for the honest but kind insight!! I’ll try not to let go anymore 🤣
When tacking you’ll have to do a behind the back exchange. It takes time but then becomes second nature. !! Keep at it. :)
Question? Are we allowed to reinforce the eye strap used as a vang with additional washers or plates to keep it from pulling out?
If you mean having an additional backing plate on the deck’s bullseye fair lead.. there is no restrictions on backing washers or plates to prevent pulling out of deck hardware.
@@LeeSideSailingHi Lee. Do you have any tips for filling the starboard drain hole? Mine is missing the brass and is just a hole in the fiberglass (3 if you count the two pinholes)
Hi, Lee. Thanks for this channel, I have found many useful tips. On this video, when you held up the tiller, there was a short, white line at the rudder end. What do you use that line for? Thanks.
Hi mike. That white line is there for when the. Tiller extension is being stored or transported it holds it next to the tiller- so it doesn’t flop around. Thanks!
@@LeeSideSailing Thanks. Getting one of those universal tiller extensions is on my list. I am still using the original rudder, tiller (and extension), and daggerboard on the 1970 sunfish I bought a few years ago. After seeing your review of the AeroSouth (sp?) vertical rudder and reading a comment in a sunfish forum, I flipped my rudder around so it is nearly vertical (had to drill four new holes). Haven't sailed with it yet, but I expect greatly reduced weather helm in higher winds based on what you said in your video. Also, I am hoping that my rudder will stop popping out so often in high winds.
Something I've observed around my area people buy them and don't have anything to move them.
That’s exactly why I made a trailer video…. And this is one question I ask when people ask me, “what boat should I get?” I ask them, what do you want to use it for, where will you keep it, and how will you get it from the buying point to its new home. :). Thanks for watching!
Is there a joint/swivel replacement for a wooden tiller extension that goes up and down as well as side to side?
There are many different types. The rubber ones can do the most positions. The ones woth hinges, do up and down and side to side. The old stock with a single bolt are the ones that should be replaced for a better sailing experience.
I'm interested in getting a tiller extension but they come in different lengths, any suggestions? They come in 30", 33", 36", 42" and 48" on sunfishdirect. Also, is brand important? Most of the ones there don't mention the brand but there is one Harken one available. It recommends a 42" length for sunfish but that seems a lot longer than the factory wooden extension...
The length depends on a few things. I am 6 foot tall and when hiked out and forward I like a 42”. Most people who have used the extension say it’s too long. Brand is not as important in my opinion. 30 I think is too short. One way to figure it out is to lean out as far as you want to off your boat. And where ever the measurement you are comfortable holding the tiller extension from the end of the tiller. ( when the RUDDER in FULLY DOWN) is the length you should get. In other words I like to be able to hold the teller extension in the middle of my body. The end of the tiller when. Rudder is fully down is about 42”. Hope this helps. :)
Do people drill out their gooseneck when using a quick-release latch? I have the latch, supposedly for a Sunfish, but the threaded shaft won't fit into my brass gooseneck.
No. You don’t have to drill it out. Unless the bolt is stuck in there. I have experienced this once- The hole in the gooseneck may be too small, in possibly an older gooseneck OR the quick release screw is too fat. See if you yoi can get a new quick release with narrower screw or new goose neck (yeah. I know. That’s not an ideal option). Good luck.
How do I determine the length of the Ronstan tiller extension to buy? They come in different lengths.
Depending on your preference. And height. Long would be 36 inches. And then go down from there. 30 is extremely common. Another way to do it. Is to set up you mr rudder on a dolly and drop the rudder in its normal sailing position. Measure the length from the front of the cock pot to the area where you want to attach the extension to the tiller (usually a couple of inches from the end and on the top of the tiller). You can go a couple inches longer or a few shorter. Depending on your comfort level when hiking. Hope this helps.
Awesome video. I bought mine a couple of weeks ago and the sagging main sheet was driving me crazy. My daggerboard is all wood and doesn't have a hole in it for a bungee cord. How do people handle these? Thanks
Many people attach a metal pull handle to the top! Usually woth some wood screws. If you can get something that will resist rusting thats the best.
Congrats on the purchase!! Many happy hours of enjoyment and luck!
Great idea. Thanks so much. p.s I just ordered some mainsail hangers so I don't strangle myself again
Can you share a link of where to get a good, inexpensive tiller extension? I have a 72 sunfish and I've been looking for one for a while
Many people make them out of golf clubs, aluminum poles, or even old ski poles. A quick google search found the average cost of one would be about $50... so if you’re handy you can make one. If you do a Google search “tiller extensions sailboat” there will be all sorts of extensions.
You can buy an universal from intensity sails for around $15, then take that to your local home store and get about 4’ of pvc pipe that the universal will fit into.
Probably the cheapest way to build your own.
Is the daggerboard a keel of sorts?
You can say that, but others may say no…. Keels are usually non-movable, has weight to act as ballast to stabilize the boat snd to act as a wing to help with tracking…. The dagger board acts more as a wing to provide tracking, but less to help stabilize by ways of weight plus it is movable.
@@LeeSideSailing ahhh cool thanks
Just received my tiller extension. It came with a pre installed unerversual joint. I am a but surprised it is just a rubber flexible joint, and not some kind of ball joint. What seems to be the lifespan on one of these joints?
They last for years.
@@LeeSideSailing Good to know, because I am going to be giving it the beans when I go out haha.
Everytime you go out- look at the joint- If its split more than 1/3…. Then replace it…. At 50% it will go at any time.
@@LeeSideSailing good to know, I have one on back up just incase. I really appreciate the time and advice you give.
Thank you! I appreciate the comments.
what size tiller extension do you recommend?
The most common is about 33 inches. You can go all the way to the front of the cockpit if you want and need it maybe even a couple of inches past the cockpit but many people think that feels too long if you do that.
@@LeeSideSailing my daughter is 5’1” so I’m thinking 33” good for her?
that’s a pretty standard size
What diameter line do you use for the main sheet?
I personally like quarter inch main sheet about 30 feet no less than 28 feet. This will cover 98% of my sailing.. However if you have a hard time holding lines you might want to go up a little bit thicker.
I just bought my first boat. It has no year markings. I think it’s pre 73. Problem is the tiller bracket is stainless but has unslotted holes. How does the tiller attach. I can’t figure it out!
Can you post a picture on facebook? It may be possible to have the two different generations... does the tiller that attaches to the rudder have a spring?
@@LeeSideSailing Thanks Lee. Great site and videos! Unfortunately I don’t Facebook. I like to be a ghost. Let me lay it out though because I can’t figure this boats timeline. She has the short cockpit with fore and aft white racing stripes on a medium blue deck. No serial number or plate. Just some old adhesive where a plate may have been on the forward cockpit bulkhead. The rudder gudgion is a stainless two piece, with a hinge at the top and to holes where it looks like the rudder should mount. The rudder hardware has a spring and is consistent with new style pictures I’ve seen. Also the deck and hull have not been repaired and are original in good condition. I know this because I work with fiberglass professionally and have looked closely at this boat. She has not been converted from the old style rudder. However interestingly there is a small piece of metal rub rail missing above the rudder mount. One other thing is the fish on the sail is crazy looking, more like a giant ocean sunfish. Welcoming some input. Thanks!
@@andrewdritsas7154 i am asking around... im a litte too tired to think right now :)
@andrew now that I’m a little more awake. I think the hinge will be on the boat-- Which would make it an “old” style bracket. The part with the spring should be on the rudder head- which is a new style. These two don’t come together. That’s why you would have issues. Watch my “how to buy a used sunfish videos” and it clearly shows the two systems. Maybe the second video part two. Hope this helps. If you want sunfishdirect.com sells hedge on brackets for the spring type rudder head.
It’s so confusing because it’s stainless and transom only mounted. It’s not the old style or the new.
35mm film canister???
Hehehe. Yup. You can find them in antique shops and cut the bottom out of them. Then tape them to the boom. :).
a new sail
almost nothing worse than trying to sail with a old baggy main
New sails are nice:)
with Me? Yes. Is this Video for me? maybe not. Its Not OK!!!.
#1 very much so, duck tape. electric tape, zipties... /-/ great advice. leaky boat,,, your boat, wet dry vac. !!!. sponge, dehu, garage kept, or let it rot! All of them leak, and I consider it #2. Goose neck, like button. A MUST HAVE!!!! wait didn't I invent 2 diff versions of those? Yeah, I did...#3 A must have. yes, a must have. if it breaks, the tail of a mainsheet will work. but,,,,, Not ideal. It only pulls up. I have 50 tiller extension joints for sale. :P, #4 Bungy is Much higher than an extension. Bungy is LARGE!!!!! and this IMHO should be ranked #2. As way before we invented gooseneck adjusters, tiller extensions, and balanced leeches and jens rig, and even a water tight boat. We HAD to have the Bungy for the board... IMHO, I consider it #1-2. #5 I agree!!!! and learn a figure 8 and a bowline!!!! #6 dollies are the Bomb.... or it proves you have no clue.! so yes , I agree!. #7 Lee is a great guy! #8 Lee is right! #9 I am better than Lee! :P all in jest buddy.
Good points Zane! The order I listed is not their rank- the importance is In the “Sunfish-O-Meter Scale of Importance”. :)
we all know: the best sunfish upgrade is laser :)
hehehe :) many sailors say you would be wrong... RS aero for a single handed racer ;)
yes, RS aero is the best Laser upgrade
Nope, an RS Aero is.