Hello Phil, not sure how the affliate links work (don't trust them), but I went to that seller of the Mirka Goldflex to get myself some 150 grit pads, started using them and thought they seemed a bit coarse - they sent me 120 grit instead! I've notified the seller on Amazon and ordered some 180 grit as well, as I will use the 120's anyway. So far, impressive pads though, seem to hold their grit much longer than the standard foam ones
The Links just send you to the product I'll have mentioned etc The link will be allocated to my 'account' so Amazon knows the sale was through my link.... I think that's how it works in simple terms. I have 150 and 180 on the go. As the 150 and 180 wear down they go for finer nibbing down. I didn't know they did the golf flex in 120.. that's handy to have for general sanding on skirting and doors where you need some flex to the pad. Yes. They don't seem to clogg as much.. unless the paint is still a bit soft.... Water based gloss I've noticed deposits left on the pad.
Phil, I'd love to see what you think of the Prodec Ice Fusion rollers. I've had fantastic results with them so far. Ive repainted my kitchen units, internal doors, windowsills etc with them and they leave such a lovely smooth finish. Dare I say the smoothest I've seen bar spraying? Still, would be nice to have a pro opinion.
Bought some bedec msp after watching another 1 of your vids. Have wooden sill with god knows how many layers of old oil based paint. Its got water based on top from years ago but sill has loads of crater like dips (microns deep i.e prob layer of paint or 2). Any recommendations on filler to use in this situation after light sand or risk just sanding whole sill to get few layers of paint of ? Just worried might have even worse issues doing this
Give it a sand. Put a coat on and see how it looks. A satin won't show so much up. If you need a light fill. Prestonett do an exterior wood filler in a tub that will help skim anything out. Allow to dry then lightly sand it to get it looking better.
I always wonder about the adhesion primer with scuff-x, I always use one just to be safe, does it always need one? Say going over previous oil satin? Gloss I would.
So far I've not found a need for it (yet), witha good sand down it's been fine... I've been using it on and off since earlier this year... on new wood surfaces I would though.
Would advise using a dry cloth first to remove remaining dust as a wet cloth actually leaves fine dust on the surface which is more sanding than necessary.
What I'm unclear about is when you'd choose to spray and when you'd choose to brush it. Surely if spraying gives a superior finish, then why not spray it?
assess the room situation, If it's a clear room and not being uses, spraying woodwork is easier to do... or an empty house! This house was being used all the time and not big rooms, I was going through a room in 2-3 days. Ceilings.. no reason you can't spray them on every job, you still sheet the floor up for rolling it! have a look back at some of my spray vids.. a number are in houses with carpet down and customers still living there.
Hi Phil, I've also been using Scuff X on jobs this year, however the spec sheets say its for walls (basically a durable emulsion), just a slight concern, so should we be using BM Advance on woodwork and rads instead?
In the USA... They use it as Emulsion. Over here... They sell it to us as woodwork paint lol And at the price we pay... You wouldn't use under 4ltrs on walls at £108 a go
Hi Phil Great Vid as always and a new subscriber here. Thanks for the tips as im about to start painting window sills, skirting boards and doors. In the case of these im looking to use Johnstone's Aquagaurd and Johnstone's Aqua waterbased Undercoat due to the non yellowing properties that an oil based saintin gloss would produce, as well as ease of application. My Main questions: 1) Can the 'Aquaguard' use the' Johnstones Johncryl undeecoat Primer' be used under the 'Aqua Guard' with just as good results, just thinking that could be a better multi purpose undercoat / primer? 2) I have doors that are made of MDF / Engineered wood (i think) that have been WHITE in colour that were installed and are lightweight compared to solid wood doors. - They look like 'DORIS The DOOR' in design but with fake wood effect. - It almost seems to be plasticy sort of finish (sheen) on the door facias (Part of a newish build property). - MY MAIN QUESTION: Can the 'Aquaguard' and 'Aqua Waterbased undercoat' be used of this type of door? It mentions NOT TO PAINT on MDF..(but gather this is bare unpainted MDF doors)?
hello and welcome. I've loads of videos you will like to watch... mainly this one is your 1st you should see czcams.com/video/l2ik2CkF02E/video.html It's good you are using the correct Uv with the AG. The MDF.... yes, you're fine, crack on. let me know what you think to AG ;)
In regards to what 😂 if the walls where going a dark colour, if you painted the underneath of sill in the dark colour it would look terrible. You’re only getting away with smashing it in emulsion as it’s a pastel light shade. Personally I do it the correct way and paint the underside in the wood paint always. If it makes it easier do the underside first then cut a nice neat line to it. 5:32
@@ProfessionalPainterDecoratorI would, always do ...suppose it's just about professionalism ..bet you don't paint the top edge of architraves either 😂
@@davewright9312 professionalism lol they're all the things DIYers 'gloss' paint thinking, that's what they need to be painting, like tops and bottoms of doors when you remove them to paint a room. lol The only tops of door frames that get painted with a finish coat are the ones you see when you come down stairs, ie: the ones you can see. As long as it's had a coat of something (emulsion) it's got protection.
no primer needed, Primers are for bare surfaces. This is a painted surface, with ScuffX, you can give a sand daown and two coats of teh scuffX, if you have problem surfaces or building up from new wood/bare surfaces, BM do two primer/Uc paints you can use with ScuffX, called... Fresh Start and STIX
Thank you for an extremely clear, specific and thorough lesson. One question I have: if the cill has lots of brush marks from when it was last painted, and I do a lot of sanding to try to remove them, should I use a primer before the Scuff-X? There will still be lots of the previous paint left on the cill after I sand.
No need, unless you want a build up. You've given it a good sand and that's the key for paint to help grip to it. If it was bare you can use teh BM primers and then go with ScuffX. Get a electric sander on them if they are really bad. Like the one I show in my other videos.. the batter DeWalt. amzn.to/3vUrT5q
It's goes a goes a long way. I did a whole house and only use one 4ltr can. Somper job... If you use a litre.... £25ish. Hardly a deal loser on a job, labour far outweigh material costs for us.
I wanted to keep using Aqua Guard but was getting tired of the ninja drops and sagging especially on skirting board. Isomat Isolac is nice but also saggs if you turn your back to it. Benjamin Moore all the way. Just wish water based wood paints would improve on opacity
@@ProfessionalPainterDecoratorwould you ever use Arroworthy classic to lay off? Just wondering as that’s the only brush I have so will buy one of these 2fb if needed
Well if you can’t be bothered painting a little strip under a sill what other corners are you cutting? You’re on the floor cutting the skirtings in come on Phillip two dips and the under edge of sill done whilst down there. Don’t know how you sleep at night 😅😅😅
Obviously a controversial point when it triggers someone to comment five times on one video 😂 that said, I must admit I was annoyed to notice recently that a room we had professionally painted a few years ago didn’t have the underside of the board painted. Yes it took a few years to notice but once I did it briefly made me think this guy doesn’t have an eye for detail. Had I painted it myself I would have done it as I’m the kind of person who also hates the crap left under baths and kitchen kick boards. You’re the best in my eyes Phil, maybe it’s worth the extra minute or two to do this as it’s the details that matter 👍🏻
@@danielwoolcock7267 yeah I hand painted kitchen cupboards recently & the finish was amazing ,I used aqua guard with that mixed felt just like oil , always gonna carry some with me
I would painted that with oil base about ten minutes ago good attention to detail 1 side of kettle not many painters do it,cover the handle in paint.
I was literally just about to paint a window sill when this popped up😂
Great vid. Looking at getting into decorating so your advice is a big help.
Awesome! Thank you!
Hello Phil, not sure how the affliate links work (don't trust them), but I went to that seller of the Mirka Goldflex to get myself some 150 grit pads, started using them and thought they seemed a bit coarse - they sent me 120 grit instead! I've notified the seller on Amazon and ordered some 180 grit as well, as I will use the 120's anyway. So far, impressive pads though, seem to hold their grit much longer than the standard foam ones
The Links just send you to the product I'll have mentioned etc
The link will be allocated to my 'account' so Amazon knows the sale was through my link.... I think that's how it works in simple terms.
I have 150 and 180 on the go.
As the 150 and 180 wear down they go for finer nibbing down.
I didn't know they did the golf flex in 120.. that's handy to have for general sanding on skirting and doors where you need some flex to the pad.
Yes. They don't seem to clogg as much.. unless the paint is still a bit soft.... Water based gloss I've noticed deposits left on the pad.
Rub two 120 pads together... It'll make them less course.
Phil, I'd love to see what you think of the Prodec Ice Fusion rollers.
I've had fantastic results with them so far. Ive repainted my kitchen units, internal doors, windowsills etc with them and they leave such a lovely smooth finish. Dare I say the smoothest I've seen bar spraying?
Still, would be nice to have a pro opinion.
I've done a video on the ProDec advance microfiber mini rollers. Have you seen that?
2Fussy Blokes for the win ;)
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator no I missed it. I'll try to find it!
@@AntEloftheHouseofEl also look at the two Fussy Blokes videos
Bought some bedec msp after watching another 1 of your vids. Have wooden sill with god knows how many layers of old oil based paint. Its got water based on top from years ago but sill has loads of crater like dips (microns deep i.e prob layer of paint or 2). Any recommendations on filler to use in this situation after light sand or risk just sanding whole sill to get few layers of paint of ? Just worried might have even worse issues doing this
Give it a sand. Put a coat on and see how it looks. A satin won't show so much up.
If you need a light fill. Prestonett do an exterior wood filler in a tub that will help skim anything out. Allow to dry then lightly sand it to get it looking better.
Excuse the ignorance but wouldnt small roller be ok to use and get better finish on main ledge for diyer or is brush simply the best option ?
yes you can, anyone can use a roller... brush work takes a bit more skill ;)
I always wonder about the adhesion primer with scuff-x, I always use one just to be safe, does it always need one? Say going over previous oil satin? Gloss I would.
So far I've not found a need for it (yet), witha good sand down it's been fine... I've been using it on and off since earlier this year...
on new wood surfaces I would though.
I use to use a easy to apply paint then went to gloss harder to apply but it lasts I five it didnt yellow.
you mean oil gloss?
Great video, any thoughts on 'Axus' brand?, currently using one of their angled cutting in brushes and seems decent enough.
I've not used them for a while... I moved on from those tbh
Would advise using a dry cloth first to remove remaining dust as a wet cloth actually leaves fine dust on the surface which is more sanding than necessary.
A damp cloth holds the dust better though. Try it. It's like a cheap tac cloth lol
I'd go with a dry microfibre cloth over both tac or damp cloths. I've tested this on walls, furniture and kitchen cabinets using all 3 methods.
What I'm unclear about is when you'd choose to spray and when you'd choose to brush it. Surely if spraying gives a superior finish, then why not spray it?
assess the room situation, If it's a clear room and not being uses, spraying woodwork is easier to do... or an empty house!
This house was being used all the time and not big rooms, I was going through a room in 2-3 days.
Ceilings.. no reason you can't spray them on every job, you still sheet the floor up for rolling it!
have a look back at some of my spray vids.. a number are in houses with carpet down and customers still living there.
Thanks. Great info. Love your videos@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator
Hi Phil, I've also been using Scuff X on jobs this year, however the spec sheets say its for walls (basically a durable emulsion), just a slight concern, so should we be using BM Advance on woodwork and rads instead?
In the USA... They use it as Emulsion. Over here... They sell it to us as woodwork paint lol
And at the price we pay... You wouldn't use under 4ltrs on walls at £108 a go
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator mind you, Dulux diamond matt and durable flat matt isn't too far off that nowadays!
Hi Phil
Great Vid as always and a new subscriber here. Thanks for the tips as im about to start painting window sills, skirting boards and doors.
In the case of these im looking to use Johnstone's Aquagaurd and Johnstone's Aqua waterbased Undercoat due to the non yellowing properties that an oil based saintin gloss would produce,
as well as ease of application.
My Main questions:
1) Can the 'Aquaguard' use the' Johnstones Johncryl undeecoat Primer' be used under the 'Aqua Guard' with just as good results, just thinking that could be a better multi purpose undercoat / primer?
2) I have doors that are made of MDF / Engineered wood (i think) that have been WHITE in colour that were installed and are lightweight compared to solid wood doors.
- They look like 'DORIS The DOOR' in design but with fake wood effect.
- It almost seems to be plasticy sort of finish (sheen) on the door facias (Part of a newish build property).
- MY MAIN QUESTION: Can the 'Aquaguard' and 'Aqua Waterbased undercoat' be used of this type of door? It mentions NOT TO PAINT on MDF..(but gather this is bare unpainted MDF doors)?
hello and welcome.
I've loads of videos you will like to watch... mainly this one is your 1st you should see czcams.com/video/l2ik2CkF02E/video.html
It's good you are using the correct Uv with the AG.
The MDF.... yes, you're fine, crack on.
let me know what you think to AG ;)
Thanks for the reply 😃
In regards to what 😂 if the walls where going a dark colour, if you painted the underneath of sill in the dark colour it would look terrible. You’re only getting away with smashing it in emulsion as it’s a pastel light shade. Personally I do it the correct way and paint the underside in the wood paint always. If it makes it easier do the underside first then cut a nice neat line to it.
5:32
Crack on. LoL
The cleaner will see it when she's dusting along the skirting board under the radiator lol
Have to agree Andy, for the thirty seconds or so it takes to paint the underside of a window sill...why wouldn't you do it ?
@@davewright9312 or, why would you.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecoratorI would, always do ...suppose it's just about professionalism ..bet you don't paint the top edge of architraves either 😂
@@davewright9312 professionalism lol
they're all the things DIYers 'gloss' paint thinking, that's what they need to be painting, like tops and bottoms of doors when you remove them to paint a room. lol
The only tops of door frames that get painted with a finish coat are the ones you see when you come down stairs, ie: the ones you can see.
As long as it's had a coat of something (emulsion) it's got protection.
Can't beat oil gloss on cills with a bit of Owatrol in it though. At least they stay white in the window as plenty of light as well.
Whats the primer your using there?
no primer needed, Primers are for bare surfaces.
This is a painted surface, with ScuffX, you can give a sand daown and two coats of teh scuffX, if you have problem surfaces or building up from new wood/bare surfaces, BM do two primer/Uc paints you can use with ScuffX, called... Fresh Start and STIX
👍
Thank you for an extremely clear, specific and thorough lesson. One question I have: if the cill has lots of brush marks from when it was last painted, and I do a lot of sanding to try to remove them, should I use a primer before the Scuff-X? There will still be lots of the previous paint left on the cill after I sand.
No need, unless you want a build up. You've given it a good sand and that's the key for paint to help grip to it.
If it was bare you can use teh BM primers and then go with ScuffX.
Get a electric sander on them if they are really bad. Like the one I show in my other videos.. the batter DeWalt.
amzn.to/3vUrT5q
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator thanks!!
That paint is over £100 a tin Phill is there a cheaper good quality alternative ?
It's goes a goes a long way. I did a whole house and only use one 4ltr can.
Somper job... If you use a litre.... £25ish. Hardly a deal loser on a job, labour far outweigh material costs for us.
I find Aqua Guard very good just need to watch for the odd drop on vertical surfaces.
I wanted to keep using Aqua Guard but was getting tired of the ninja drops and sagging especially on skirting board. Isomat Isolac is nice but also saggs if you turn your back to it. Benjamin Moore all the way. Just wish water based wood paints would improve on opacity
Surely it’s fine if it’s a light colour underneath, but a dark nah I’d do white always.
In regards to what?
Those tfb brushes look terrible , not for me far to floppy , love the rollers though
It's good for laying off window sills lol
@@ProfessionalPainterDecoratorwould you ever use Arroworthy classic to lay off? Just wondering as that’s the only brush I have so will buy one of these 2fb if needed
RAF 😂😂😂
RAF😂😂😂
Based on?
Well if you can’t be bothered painting a little strip under a sill what other corners are you cutting? You’re on the floor cutting the skirtings in come on Phillip two dips and the under edge of sill done whilst down there. Don’t know how you sleep at night 😅😅😅
@@andyttfn lol
Like using PVA and not lining walls for wallpapering lol
Obviously a controversial point when it triggers someone to comment five times on one video 😂 that said, I must admit I was annoyed to notice recently that a room we had professionally painted a few years ago didn’t have the underside of the board painted. Yes it took a few years to notice but once I did it briefly made me think this guy doesn’t have an eye for detail. Had I painted it myself I would have done it as I’m the kind of person who also hates the crap left under baths and kitchen kick boards. You’re the best in my eyes Phil, maybe it’s worth the extra minute or two to do this as it’s the details that matter 👍🏻
@@Liverpool1ne I love ppl to comment.. ;)
Phil you ain’t a decorator are you,how can you possibly talk about toshing in the underside of a cill?
Jesus latex paint is junk wouldnt dream of using it on woodwork anywhere
Which have you tried?
Have you tried using Floetrol Phil
Starting using recently does actually work
I used it not long ago for sills coincidentally. They dried with a spray finish. I was quite surprised.
@@danielwoolcock7267 yeah I hand painted kitchen cupboards recently & the finish was amazing ,I used aqua guard with that mixed felt just like oil , always gonna carry some with me
@@deanmarkwell5997 I'm the same now. I've started using it on flat finished internal doors. The ones that come pre primed. Excellent finish.
@liverpool1ne 😂😂😂