If I could just get the distributor freed from the block.. next would be this very task. Itching to get the F4-134 back to oem setup, your tutorial is great and believe its applicable for the F (Hurricane) and L (Go Devil) 134 engines. Thanks again for uploading!!
do you prime these oil pumps by dropping them in clean oil and turning the shaft? i have a flathead 6 cylinder for an old M37 army truck i have to do that to get it primed. not sure if this would be the same.
Yes, I like to prime the pump. It is real easy. Just fill it and turn it and refill. Wipe the gadget surface clean and mount. Then when I start a fresh build, I crank the motor a bit to prime the whole system.
Lew, just installed a newly rebuilt engine today and discovered that the oil pump was installed off by two splines. I need to move it 2 splines counter-clockwise. A few questions: 1) Any need to remove the cover on the pump, or just the 3 bolts that hold it on? 2) When I take it out, will oil pour out? 3) Would this adjustment be easier with the diz in or out? 4) Should the pump gasket have any sealer on it? Thanks a lot, great video!
Tom, just remove the mounting bolts. Best done with the distributor out so you can check the position down the hole. I like a thin film of sealer on the gasket. Not too much, you dont want to squeeze sealer into the oil system.
You said this block was for a CJ2A and the pump should pointing to 11 o'clock. Would that be the opposite for an MB or a GPW since the teeth go in the opposite direction. Should a Willys or a GPW be pointing toward 1 o'clock ?
Lew is the set up the same with the chain drive engine, since the angle of the oil pump goes in the opposite direction and cam runs in the opposite direction?
Lew, Great video! But I have a dilemma......After following the directions, and getting my distributor in, my rotor is pointing at the 3rd piston....what am I doing and how to correct?
#1 and #4 piston at TDC. Adjusted the oil pump so that fat side is on top and at 9.30 when going in. Once in the fat side is at approx 11. Distibutor once lined up with oil pump has the rotor pointing at the 3rd piston..... Revelation......the distributor that I was doing this with is brand new, but probably Chinese made. The old distributor lines up exactly how you said it should. So, use the old distributor w/new components or use new one pointed wrong?
Lew,,,have a F-134 pump slot is at 11,,,engine was rebuilt by a professional,,,but when I line up the dis. shaft,,,,it ends up at 3 O'clock or before.. tried to change the pump by one gear,, and when the dis.is in at the position the vacuum advance plate hits the engine block,,,when you try to get the points to just open..any ideas? guess as long as the points open on #1 it won't know where the rotor is anywhy. Have the same issue that Don Lowe has,,but my is original, think if I take the pump off one more time I'll lose it.
@@hummernutsfl I've reset the pump about 8 times,,,when the big knotch is correct the dis. is off,,,tired to set it at 9 O'clock and also 1 but can't get the boy to line up,,,thx much,,any more ideas
Well, yes and no. If it runs properly you can get.away with it. Nut the oiler on the dizzy will not function right. It's not hard to get it correct if you want.
The oilier should be towards the rear of the engine and number 1 should be closer to the 6 o'clock position if you want it like factory. That being said, my #1 is in the 12 o'clock
Sorry but I disagree. Every TM and factory photo show #1 at 5:00. This puts the oiler slightly up to the front. This allows gravity to feed oil to the dizzy bushings. It also puts the wire to the coil closer to the coil. If your dizzy does not jive that way, you may have the oil pump installed wrong.
I agree with Lew, every manual, forum, and resident Willys experts (mechanics and parts distributors) say just what this video demonstrates. Believe this is applicable for the 134 F and L engines.
Great video on indexing the oil pump!
Nice job explaining all the steps. Excellent
Man, I can't thank you enough for making this video! I'm rebuilding an F- 134 but I feel like a lot of this will translate!
Cool. Best of luck. Shout if you need help.
If I could just get the distributor freed from the block.. next would be this very task. Itching to get the F4-134 back to oem setup, your tutorial is great and believe its applicable for the F (Hurricane) and L (Go Devil) 134 engines. Thanks again for uploading!!
A copper water pipe going up from where the oil pump mounts. A few taps.
Thanks, Lew.
Hope it helps you.
Great
Ignore where I say "on the rock" . Should be both valves closed at the top of the power stroke.
do you prime these oil pumps by dropping them in clean oil and turning the shaft? i have a flathead 6 cylinder for an old M37 army truck i have to do that to get it primed. not sure if this would be the same.
Yes, I like to prime the pump. It is real easy. Just fill it and turn it and refill. Wipe the gadget surface clean and mount. Then when I start a fresh build, I crank the motor a bit to prime the whole system.
Lew Ladwig thank you that’s what I was planning on doing also.
Lew, just installed a newly rebuilt engine today and discovered that the oil pump was installed off by two splines. I need to move it 2 splines counter-clockwise. A few questions: 1) Any need to remove the cover on the pump, or just the 3 bolts that hold it on? 2) When I take it out, will oil pour out? 3) Would this adjustment be easier with the diz in or out? 4) Should the pump gasket have any sealer on it? Thanks a lot, great video!
Tom, just remove the mounting bolts. Best done with the distributor out so you can check the position down the hole. I like a thin film of sealer on the gasket. Not too much, you dont want to squeeze sealer into the oil system.
You will lose a small amount of oil. Keep the pump up as it will be full too.
@@hummernutsfl Excellent, thanks a lot! Tomorrow we ride!
@@aboyandhisdog cool. Post a video on the International Flat Fender Club fb page. Love a rebuild start up!
@@hummernutsfl Wish I could, Lew, but no smart phone or vid camera. I know, I know...
You said this block was for a CJ2A and the pump should pointing to 11 o'clock. Would that be the opposite for an MB or a GPW since the teeth go in the opposite direction. Should a Willys or a GPW be pointing toward 1 o'clock ?
The orientation is the same. The gears of a chain drive are opposite but so is the cam. So all else.is the same.
Lew is the set up the same with the chain drive engine, since the angle of the oil pump goes in the opposite direction and cam runs in the opposite direction?
The gears are cut opposite as the cam rotates opposite but the layout is the same. He is a great guide:
jeepdraw.com/John_Barton_Engine_Rebuild4.html
Thanks Lew!
Lew, Great video! But I have a dilemma......After following the directions, and getting my distributor in, my rotor is pointing at the 3rd piston....what am I doing and how to correct?
Did you set your oil pump so the slot is in the correct position when at TDC?
#1 and #4 piston at TDC. Adjusted the oil pump so that fat side is on top and at 9.30 when going in. Once in the fat side is at approx 11.
Distibutor once lined up with oil pump has the rotor pointing at the 3rd piston.....
Revelation......the distributor that I was doing this with is brand new, but probably Chinese made.
The old distributor lines up exactly how you said it should.
So, use the old distributor w/new components or use new one pointed wrong?
@@donlowe6645 I like the old units. You can buy new bushings and springs for them. That way your jeep will be by the book.
@@hummernutsfl Thanks Lew!
Lew, being the teeth are cut different , is it possible to get the wrong pump into the engine or will it NOT fit ?
Should not fit as teeth will not mesh.
@@hummernutsfl Thanks Lew
Lew,,,have a F-134 pump slot is at 11,,,engine was rebuilt by a professional,,,but when I line up the dis. shaft,,,,it ends up at 3 O'clock or before.. tried to change the pump by one gear,, and when the dis.is in at the position the vacuum advance plate hits the engine block,,,when you try to get the points to just open..any ideas? guess as long as the points open on #1 it won't know where the rotor is anywhy. Have the same issue that Don Lowe has,,but my is original, think if I take the pump off one more time I'll lose it.
Sounds like you may be off by one tooth on the pump. Reset the pump.
@@hummernutsfl I've reset the pump about 8 times,,,when the big knotch is correct the dis. is off,,,tired to set it at 9 O'clock and also 1 but can't get the boy to line up,,,thx much,,any more ideas
If my rotor button is pointing in the 9 o'clock position "tdc" does it mean my engine is out of timing?
Well, yes and no. If it runs properly you can get.away with it. Nut the oiler on the dizzy will not function right. It's not hard to get it correct if you want.
So I have a question for all of you. If you are off by one tooth when you insert the oil pump how many degrees of timing would that be?
No idea. Best solution is pop the pump off and reinsert correctly. 10min job.
Will this be the case for a 161 hurricane?
I have not done a build on those but I would wager it is similar.
@@hummernutsfl thanks, appreciate your time.
The oilier should be towards the rear of the engine and number 1 should be closer to the 6 o'clock position if you want it like factory. That being said, my #1 is in the 12 o'clock
Sorry but I disagree. Every TM and factory photo show #1 at 5:00. This puts the oiler slightly up to the front. This allows gravity to feed oil to the dizzy bushings. It also puts the wire to the coil closer to the coil. If your dizzy does not jive that way, you may have the oil pump installed wrong.
I agree with Lew, every manual, forum, and resident Willys experts (mechanics and parts distributors) say just what this video demonstrates. Believe this is applicable for the 134 F and L engines.
@@hummernutsfl Agreed
Fat side what the F it's an offset key
Ya, so the shaft from the pump has a matching offset slot. Make the side that is wider up and to the right. This makes the slot on the lower left.