I was really worried ( I had just bought a new pair of rings for my 74 Suzuki ts250 ) because of how loose the rings sat in the piston. I sat there for 20 mins trying to compress the rings with my damn fingers as I attempted to slide the piston in. little did I know there’s an actual tool that helps with this process. Thank god I came across this video before I ended up snapping a ring or damaging the piston/cylinder. Thanks man!
Easy enough job, doing this my first time last year the only issue i ran into and is what you mentioned, make sure the ring compressor is flush on the surface of the block and watch for the rings popping out the side, as thats what happened to me a couple of times. The vid i watched when i done it didnt mention that (lucky no broken rings) thanks for the vid.
I think i will learn more things bcz am still a junior machanic but the information i hv from youtube its teach more about the machanic thanks for posting this vedio plz keep doing this you help us a lot
This is the first time I've seen anyone soak a piston in oil most just squirt the oil on the cylinder wall and a little on the piston. Then use the piston rings compressor tool and tap the piston in the correct direction.
I do believe in pre-lubricating the cylinders and pistons but I have been told from multiple builders that drenching oil to the point it can get inside the rings can possibly cause cylinder glazing. What are your thoughts on that?
I have never heard that. I have a hard time believing that the oil could cause glazing problems. First of all, most of that oil will have dripped out before you ever get the chance to start the engine. All that will be left is a thin film. However, I am always open to learning new things--if you have evidence of this occurring, let me know!
I'm planning to re ring my Acura I have quite a bit of back yard mechanic experience, but my question s are can it be done by just removeing the oil pan and working from the top end and can I run a calendar hone and use the same Pistons with new rings or do I need to by oversized Pistons and rings by just doing a cylinder buff
me, I change the segments of pistons diesel engine 2.0 l ... but now I notice the smoke that comes out of the oil cap with the motor rhythm, after asking the mechanic he confirm me that it will leave with the time, is it normal? ... I drove 250 km with the car, of course having to let it run 8 days in idle for reasons of 8 hours per day, now the draw of the car is a lot better but the story of the smoke, r disturbs me
Please note that this method does NOT work for certain engines! My 3.2L I6 S54B32 (E46 M3) block has different style/type of piston ring that will hydroplane on the bore if the ring gland area is soaked in oil; they are installed DRY using a piston ring compressor/sleeve, they aren't like an old school muscle car engine that has thick rings that put a lot of pressure up against the cylinder wall. These are low tension rings.. so be careful depending on the type of piston/ring you're working with!
I see you haven't been answered. First of all, disassemble your engine and check your ring gaps, if they're out of spec then measure your cylinder bores if there is no visible crosshatch and compare those measurements to your bgb. Depending on that outcome you may only just need a light hone to prepare for new rings and then if need be, file the rings to achieve your appropriate ring gap. Or, you may need to get your cylinders bored and honed and step up a size in piston which then would need (obviously) larger pistols and rings to suit, a head gasket/s to suit the overbore, and while you're at it you may as well do a bottom end rebuild with new bearings etc. If your motor is boosted by any means be sure to get an mls head gasket and get both head and block surfaces decked to as close to true flat as possible to make sure you have as close to a perfect head gasket seal. And also measure your cylinder cc's etc to make sure you don't go too high of a compression ratio.
Need help, I have a piper cherokee 140, it was due for annual inspection and in the process my mechanic found out that cylinder #3 had very low compression 80-20, so he replaced it with a brand new lycoming cylinder, he also tuned both magnetos, now I finally had a chance to fly it and I am experiencing vibration throughout the entire plane, I noticed that when he was placing the piston into the cylinder he was looking at the back of the cylinder for a long time, I noticed there was a little symbol in the back of the cylinder i am assuming that the symbol is a reference to how to place the piston in the cylinder? if the cylinder is placed the wrong way (upside down) could the be the cause of the vibration? or tuning the magnetos the wrong way could that made the engine vibrate? Thank you for your help
If there is a vibration when the engine is running and it is not misfiring, I would suspect a weight balance issue. All of the moving components (crankshaft, pistons, rods, flywheel, harmonic balancer, etc.) must be balanced (to make sure that none of the parts are heavier than the others, or that there isn't a heavy spot on the rotating parts). If they are out of balance, you will have a vibration when the engine is running. The vibration would probably be noticeably worse at a specific engine rpm. Also, does your engine have a balance shaft? The balance shaft has weights that are specifically designed to counter the natural vibrations of the engine. If it doesn't get timed correctly, it will make the vibrations worse rather than better.
I replaced piston rings with the engine still in the car and de-glazed the cylinders. That was last summer, 6k miles later, engine still running fine. Just gotta make sure everything is clean, and the cylinders are clean after de-glazing, thats the main thing.
If the plastigage is out of spec, then either your crankshaft journal is out of spec, your bearing bore is out of spec, or you have the wrong bearings. This happened just the other day, and we discovered that we had bought the wrong bearings. On many engines, there are several bearing variations available and you need to get the size that matches your engine measurements.
I need that piston ring tool. I've just spent the last 20 minutes trying to stop the dual oil control rings popping out between the piston ring compressor and the block 😤😩
I need help...I've changed rings and valves seals twice now and the car starts burning oil after about a month,blue smoke...the cylinder walls were standard,so we honed it the first time...could it be that the cylinder walls were honed too much and I need new pistons now, or can I just rings which is one size bigger???...or can it be that the valve guides might be worn??...oh,and what about the pcv valve?..can that also be a cause for the blue smoke??...thanks in advance...
Definitely check your PCV system to make sure that it is flowing well. Besides that, are you making sure to measure you cylinders, pistons, valves, and valve guides? New rings are not enough if your cylinder walls are worn beyond specifications. Likewise, if the valve guides are worn, new seals will quickly start leaking again. I have other videos that explain how to measure these parts if you want to watch them.
Hi Justin, i was informed that it was advisable to let the new pistons settle after replacement. I.e not to push the vehicle too hard after piston replacement. How true is this?
Yes and No. It is not about "letting the pistons settle." You should drive your engine gently (although under varying loads) for the first several hundred miles after a rebuild. The reason is to help the new piston rings and cylinder surfaces "break in." It takes a while for the new surfaces to wear to match each other. By the way, this is the same way you should drive your vehicle before the engine is fully warmed up under all conditions - whether the engine is new or old. Almost all of the wear that a new engine will ever experience in its lifetime happens in the first hours of running after a rebuild. Just about all of the remaining wear will occur on cold start-ups over the rest of its life.
@@JustinMillerAutomotive Thanks. The last time I did this job was 1968. That time, we just maintained 10am, 2pm and 6pm as the ring gap locations, minding to never make them all the same location. But a few weeks ago I watched a similar vid and the instructions were much more specific, that each type of ring has its own exact location and im wondering what has changed over the years that demands this.
The "crank pin" or connecting rod journal associated with that cylinder will be at it's lowest point (or farthest away from the cylinder) in the rotation of the crankshaft.
Look for damage. Feel for scratches or dings that you can detect with your fingernail If it otherwise looks good, measure it carefully with a micrometer and compare it to specifications. Don't forget to measure the piston ring side clearance. I have videos showing how to take each of these measurements.
I recently installed the piston in to the cylinder and it is new but it didn't go up and down easy.The engine is one cylinder diesel engine.What I can do to work easier?????plz help!!!!!
That's a tough question to answer. There are several things that could be wrong, or nothing could be wrong at all. First, once you have installed a piston and torqued your connecting rod bearing cap, you should measure the rotating torque of the crankshaft. Use a dial-type torque wrench to rotate the engine from the crankshaft bolt. It should take less than 4 ft.lbs.(48 in-lbs. per cylinder to rotate the engine. In your case with one cylinder, it should just be less than 4 ft-lbs. If it is not, something is likely wrong. Did you measure your piston and cylinder and compare to specifications? Did you get the correct piston rings and measure them before installing? Did any of the rings catch on the cylinder and get bent during installation? Did you plastigage your connecting rod bearings and main bearings to ensure proper clearance? Did you use assembly lube or oil on your bearings and piston skirt? Did you make sure to orient the bearing caps correctly during installation? Check each of these things. If the rotating torque is too high, it is likely one of the issues listed above.
@@JustinMillerAutomotive thanks a lot for the quick and very useful information that you told me.I will check your question and I will write to you back soon.Also sorry for my English is am from Greece and I try to learn it but in the end thanks again!!!!!!!😮😮☺☺😁
You might get away with it, but there are at least two problems with using over size piston rings on a standard piston: 1- you may have a piston ring end gap that is too small, which could cause the ends of the ring to contact each other when they get hot and expand. 2 - larger rings may place more tension on the cylinder walls. Either scenario could cause premature wear on the rings or cylinder walls.
If that is what I said (and it probably is, because I sometimes say funny things!), then you are right. I guess is is all perspective - perpendicular or parallel to what part of the crankshaft??!! :)
Great but one the… hold the band instead of the pliers… if you squeeze after the top portion of the piston clears the band the band will flare out and this is what causes the rings to pop out!! Otherwise great video
Best tool is a empty coke can cut the top and bottom off and slit it across the middle line it in the bore and push the piston in ONLY USE COCA COLA CAN NEVER ANY OTHER CAN LOL
Made it look way too easy. I was trying to put the piston back into a Briggs and Stratton engine today and ended up breaking the oil ring.. it’s definitely not as easy as it looks in videos. You have good tips though that I now know not to do next time
hey Justin I was wondering what sort of qualifications do u have I have used your video in a source analysis and I need to know if this video is credible
I am sometimes right, and sometimes wrong - like any source :) Never assume that any human being is ever absolutely correct! But maybe this is what you're looking for: I am an ASE certified master technician and a professor of Automotive Engineering Technology. I have undergraduate degrees in Automotive Technology and Business Management. I also have an MBA. I have 25 years of experience in the autpmotive industry as a technician, forensic analyst, instructor, curriculum developer, and professional trainer and consultant. My training has been used by corporations such as GM, Toyota, Volvo, and FCA (now Stellantis).
@@JustinMillerAutomotive thank you Justin for everything. Because I’m from Australia some of what you had said I will have to research. I wish u the best. Kind regard
I was really worried ( I had just bought a new pair of rings for my 74 Suzuki ts250 ) because of how loose the rings sat in the piston. I sat there for 20 mins trying to compress the rings with my damn fingers as I attempted to slide the piston in. little did I know there’s an actual tool that helps with this process. Thank god I came across this video before I ended up snapping a ring or damaging the piston/cylinder. Thanks man!
No flim flam or music. Just straight to the point clear instruction. 👍
Very well instructed. Thanks, I will be more confident in the process now.
So would this be easier to just get a new engine ?
@@great4ever845 iiiiiiiiiiiiiiíiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii
No stop buying stuff and start fixing it!!!
thanks for posting this helpful video
I'm enjoying watching your good video.
I support you in Korea.
Nice username, Car & Man
Easy enough job, doing this my first time last year the only issue i ran into and is what you mentioned, make sure the ring compressor is flush on the surface of the block and watch for the rings popping out the side, as thats what happened to me a couple of times. The vid i watched when i done it didnt mention that (lucky no broken rings) thanks for the vid.
Thanks your helpful video information
Very good, engineering, work,, brilliant, thanks
Thank you for that useful work
I think i will learn more things bcz am still a junior machanic but the information i hv from youtube its teach more about the machanic thanks for posting this vedio plz keep doing this you help us a lot
great video... Thanks
Thanks for showing how to use the ring compressor!
Good videos 👍🏻
very good video..helped me a lot
Adrian Paradala contenuiii
Which pistons n rings make would you recommend for an audi a4 b8.5 tfsi engine?
Good work I love it
Very good information nice way to install piston
This is the first time I've seen anyone soak a piston in oil most just squirt the oil on the cylinder wall and a little on the piston. Then use the piston rings compressor tool and tap the piston in the correct direction.
I do believe in pre-lubricating the cylinders and pistons but I have been told from multiple builders that drenching oil to the point it can get inside the rings can possibly cause cylinder glazing. What are your thoughts on that?
I have never heard that. I have a hard time believing that the oil could cause glazing problems. First of all, most of that oil will have dripped out before you ever get the chance to start the engine. All that will be left is a thin film. However, I am always open to learning new things--if you have evidence of this occurring, let me know!
Never heard nor experienced such a problem.
I have heard that run in oil is best as it doesn't have friction modifiers
thanks a lot its useful video
What the best tool for a piston tool my bore is 81.0 mm
Good vidieo and good work
I'm planning to re ring my Acura I have quite a bit of back yard mechanic experience, but my question s are can it be done by just removeing the oil pan and working from the top end and can I run a calendar hone and use the same Pistons with new rings or do I need to by oversized Pistons and rings by just doing a cylinder buff
All motors are different
me, I change the segments of pistons diesel engine 2.0 l ... but now I notice the smoke that comes out of the oil cap with the motor rhythm, after asking the mechanic he confirm me that it will leave with the time, is it normal? ... I drove 250 km with the car, of course having to let it run 8 days in idle for reasons of 8 hours per day, now the draw of the car is a lot better but the story of the smoke, r disturbs me
PRODIGY JUSTIN MILLER
Thank you
Take care and have a great Evening
PRODIGY JUSTIN MILLER
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Please note that this method does NOT work for certain engines! My 3.2L I6 S54B32 (E46 M3) block has different style/type of piston ring that will hydroplane on the bore if the ring gland area is soaked in oil; they are installed DRY using a piston ring compressor/sleeve, they aren't like an old school muscle car engine that has thick rings that put a lot of pressure up against the cylinder wall. These are low tension rings.. so be careful depending on the type of piston/ring you're working with!
Can I just replace the piston rings if there are low compression due to a compression test for misfire? Or replace whole thing piston and rings?
I see you haven't been answered.
First of all, disassemble your engine and check your ring gaps, if they're out of spec then measure your cylinder bores if there is no visible crosshatch and compare those measurements to your bgb.
Depending on that outcome you may only just need a light hone to prepare for new rings and then if need be, file the rings to achieve your appropriate ring gap. Or, you may need to get your cylinders bored and honed and step up a size in piston which then would need (obviously) larger pistols and rings to suit, a head gasket/s to suit the overbore, and while you're at it you may as well do a bottom end rebuild with new bearings etc. If your motor is boosted by any means be sure to get an mls head gasket and get both head and block surfaces decked to as close to true flat as possible to make sure you have as close to a perfect head gasket seal.
And also measure your cylinder cc's etc to make sure you don't go too high of a compression ratio.
thank you; very good 20/20
Thaink ji batane ka
Thank you very much
nice video
Good content 10/10
If I had 001 main barrings would the rods be the same
Hi Justin, I want to buy this tool, please share name, link... where to buy it. Thank you
Nice feed
Hello from iraq well done
Need help, I have a piper cherokee 140, it was due for annual inspection and in the process my mechanic found out that cylinder #3 had very low compression 80-20, so he replaced it with a brand new lycoming cylinder, he also tuned both magnetos, now I finally had a chance to fly it and I am experiencing vibration throughout the entire plane, I noticed that when he was placing the piston into the cylinder he was looking at the back of the cylinder for a long time, I noticed there was a little symbol in the back of the cylinder i am assuming that the symbol is a reference to how to place the piston in the cylinder? if the cylinder is placed the wrong way (upside down) could the be the cause of the vibration? or tuning the magnetos the wrong way could that made the engine vibrate? Thank you for your help
If there is a vibration when the engine is running and it is not misfiring, I would suspect a weight balance issue. All of the moving components (crankshaft, pistons, rods, flywheel, harmonic balancer, etc.) must be balanced (to make sure that none of the parts are heavier than the others, or that there isn't a heavy spot on the rotating parts). If they are out of balance, you will have a vibration when the engine is running. The vibration would probably be noticeably worse at a specific engine rpm. Also, does your engine have a balance shaft? The balance shaft has weights that are specifically designed to counter the natural vibrations of the engine. If it doesn't get timed correctly, it will make the vibrations worse rather than better.
antonio r don't fly that plane
Justin Miller Thank you very much, how do I know if my plane has a balance shaft? My pane is a 1968 piper Cherokee 140
Which engine??
Is this general knowledge for most engines? Looking to do the same for my 5vzfe
hi I got a suzuki sv650 k3 must I take the engine apart to do the piston
you gotta take the engine out all together from the bike , minimum..possibly even split the cases if there is no access from the oil sump..
thanks sir
Thanks
Now only what i need is place to work in my cars
Hi. Can you tell mi if it is acceptable to replace the pistons rings without cylinder grinding?
I replaced piston rings with the engine still in the car and de-glazed the cylinders. That was last summer, 6k miles later, engine still running fine. Just gotta make sure everything is clean, and the cylinders are clean after de-glazing, thats the main thing.
nice
Very informative I learned a lot ! Thanks man
what do you do if the plastic-gauge results are out of spec?
If the plastigage is out of spec, then either your crankshaft journal is out of spec, your bearing bore is out of spec, or you have the wrong bearings. This happened just the other day, and we discovered that we had bought the wrong bearings. On many engines, there are several bearing variations available and you need to get the size that matches your engine measurements.
Justin Miller right, so if its out of spec meaning the gauge spreads to much or to little you can counter it buy getting bearings to suit ??
Jay Horthorn Get mad .
You can check the crank journal and rod bearing bore in the rod assy before assy. If all is ok then the plastigage is only double check.
I need that piston ring tool. I've just spent the last 20 minutes trying to stop the dual oil control rings popping out between the piston ring compressor and the block 😤😩
Yes - it is very hard to do this without the tool!
This looks way easier than having to slide the whole cylinder onto the piston on lycoming aircraft engines
I need help...I've changed rings and valves seals twice now and the car starts burning oil after about a month,blue smoke...the cylinder walls were standard,so we honed it the first time...could it be that the cylinder walls were honed too much and I need new pistons now, or can I just rings which is one size bigger???...or can it be that the valve guides might be worn??...oh,and what about the pcv valve?..can that also be a cause for the blue smoke??...thanks in advance...
Definitely check your PCV system to make sure that it is flowing well. Besides that, are you making sure to measure you cylinders, pistons, valves, and valve guides? New rings are not enough if your cylinder walls are worn beyond specifications. Likewise, if the valve guides are worn, new seals will quickly start leaking again. I have other videos that explain how to measure these parts if you want to watch them.
Stan Marr take it to machine shop
very good
So cool😎
Very good👍👍
Is it right to put straight away lube on the rod side before checking clearence?
If you are using Plastigage to check clearance, don't put lube on the bearing until after checking the clearance.
How much would this cost to get done? I’d love to do it myself one day but just out curiosity I’d like to know what option would be cheaper
I can't answer that question. It depends on what engine you have, the condition of the engine, and the labor rate of the shop that is doing the work.
Hi Justin, i was informed that it was advisable to let the new pistons settle after replacement. I.e not to push the vehicle too hard after piston replacement. How true is this?
Yes and No. It is not about "letting the pistons settle." You should drive your engine gently (although under varying loads) for the first several hundred miles after a rebuild. The reason is to help the new piston rings and cylinder surfaces "break in." It takes a while for the new surfaces to wear to match each other.
By the way, this is the same way you should drive your vehicle before the engine is fully warmed up under all conditions - whether the engine is new or old.
Almost all of the wear that a new engine will ever experience in its lifetime happens in the first hours of running after a rebuild. Just about all of the remaining wear will occur on cold start-ups over the rest of its life.
thenx
Аккуратно и понятно 👍
Ring placement is different for every engine. I have a service manual for mine but it doesnt specify. How to know?
When you buy new piston rings, the package that they come in will usually have instructions.
@@JustinMillerAutomotive Thanks. The last time I did this job was 1968. That time, we just maintained 10am, 2pm and 6pm as the ring gap locations, minding to never make them all the same location. But a few weeks ago I watched a similar vid and the instructions were much more specific, that each type of ring has its own exact location and im wondering what has changed over the years that demands this.
How do you know when the crankshaft is at bottom dead centre?
The "crank pin" or connecting rod journal associated with that cylinder will be at it's lowest point (or farthest away from the cylinder) in the rotation of the crankshaft.
@@JustinMillerAutomotive Thank you.
i still dont get how these things can be worked to move so much weight
That's Engineering, my dude!
the first piston I ever installed into an engine was a dead lawnmower engine
What are ways to determine the psiton needs to be replaced?
Look for damage. Feel for scratches or dings that you can detect with your fingernail
If it otherwise looks good, measure it carefully with a micrometer and compare it to specifications. Don't forget to measure the piston ring side clearance. I have videos showing how to take each of these measurements.
So NYC Sir
How can buy the ring puller
It is called a piston ring compressor, and you can buy it online.
I also need this piston ring compressor. Can you please send me the web link.
@@JustinMillerAutomotive pls I need the ring compressor
WEAR DID YOU GET YOUR INSTALLING TOOL FROM LET ME KNOW THANKS
pedro rodriguez eBay
thanks bro
I want to but this tool too - where can I get it? searched this name on Ebay and found nothing - can you share the link, please?
Thanks sir
I recently installed the piston in to the cylinder and it is new but it didn't go up and down easy.The engine is one cylinder diesel engine.What I can do to work easier?????plz help!!!!!
That's a tough question to answer. There are several things that could be wrong, or nothing could be wrong at all. First, once you have installed a piston and torqued your connecting rod bearing cap, you should measure the rotating torque of the crankshaft. Use a dial-type torque wrench to rotate the engine from the crankshaft bolt. It should take less than 4 ft.lbs.(48 in-lbs. per cylinder to rotate the engine. In your case with one cylinder, it should just be less than 4 ft-lbs. If it is not, something is likely wrong. Did you measure your piston and cylinder and compare to specifications? Did you get the correct piston rings and measure them before installing? Did any of the rings catch on the cylinder and get bent during installation? Did you plastigage your connecting rod bearings and main bearings to ensure proper clearance? Did you use assembly lube or oil on your bearings and piston skirt? Did you make sure to orient the bearing caps correctly during installation?
Check each of these things. If the rotating torque is too high, it is likely one of the issues listed above.
@@JustinMillerAutomotive thanks a lot for the quick and very useful information that you told me.I will check your question and I will write to you back soon.Also sorry for my English is am from Greece and I try to learn it but in the end thanks again!!!!!!!😮😮☺☺😁
I am running into an issue where the ring keeps popping out.
💪
Good
Cool❤
Can i use over size piston rings on standard pistons? thanks because that is what my cousin did.
You might get away with it, but there are at least two problems with using over size piston rings on a standard piston: 1- you may have a piston ring end gap that is too small, which could cause the ends of the ring to contact each other when they get hot and expand. 2 - larger rings may place more tension on the cylinder walls. Either scenario could cause premature wear on the rings or cylinder walls.
I don't know why when I try to put in my pistons are hard to push, still don't know why???
Have you used a cylinder ridge reamer?
NicE
help I dont have installation tool what do next?
The best answer to that question is to go get the tool. If you can't afford the tool, then I guess you will have to get really creative!
is that copper spray on the block ?
No. The block has been baked in a cleaning oven, which often makes it look like it has a copper glaze on it.
Very well
Werry good
Im injoy to watching, i supporting to Channel stay connected c,,, u... Friend.
You said the arrow on top of the piston was to be perpendicular to the crank, don't you mean parallel? Or is it just perception;-)
If that is what I said (and it probably is, because I sometimes say funny things!), then you are right. I guess is is all perspective - perpendicular or parallel to what part of the crankshaft??!! :)
👏👏👍👍🌹
Wow
👍💓
👍👍
Great but one the… hold the band instead of the pliers… if you squeeze after the top portion of the piston clears the band the band will flare out and this is what causes the rings to pop out!!
Otherwise great video
Great tip! Thank you!
Cummins NH 220
Thanks I rean something continue
Understood 😂😂
Best tool is a empty coke can cut the top and bottom off and slit it across the middle line it in the bore and push the piston in ONLY USE COCA COLA CAN NEVER ANY OTHER CAN LOL
Great suggestion. I never thought of that, but I can see how that might work!
If shiilinder he'd mek asoud which is the coss
Made it look way too easy. I was trying to put the piston back into a Briggs and Stratton engine today and ended up breaking the oil ring.. it’s definitely not as easy as it looks in videos. You have good tips though that I now know not to do next time
Thanks tearcher
hey Justin I was wondering what sort of qualifications do u have
I have used your video in a source analysis and I need to know if this video is credible
I am sometimes right, and sometimes wrong - like any source :) Never assume that any human being is ever absolutely correct!
But maybe this is what you're looking for: I am an ASE certified master technician and a professor of Automotive Engineering Technology. I have undergraduate degrees in Automotive Technology and Business Management. I also have an MBA. I have 25 years of experience in the autpmotive industry as a technician, forensic analyst, instructor, curriculum developer, and professional trainer and consultant. My training has been used by corporations such as GM, Toyota, Volvo, and FCA (now Stellantis).
@@JustinMillerAutomotive thank you Justin for everything. Because I’m from Australia some of what you had said I will have to research. I wish u the best. Kind regard
film
gv
J
Мая твоя непонимает