How to install laminate flooring around doors and cabinets.
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- čas přidán 4. 06. 2024
- It's easy to click boards together, but how you handle transition areas makes the difference between a professional and amateur looking job. In this video I'll show you how to tackle two common challenge areas; installing laminate around doors, and installing laminate next to cabinets. If you wondering how to install the last row of laminate next to the wall, you guessed it, this technique works there too. This applies to click lock laminate or vinyl flooring.
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Small trimming plane
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Tapping Block
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Robert 13" Floor cutter
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Laminate installation kit
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Disclaimer: I'm not a professional installer but this is a technique that works well for me. Cutting the lip may or may not void the manufacturer warranty so you may want to check on that. However, I've heard nothing but negative reports anytime anyone has tried to warranty a laminate floor, and I've never had one come apart, so I figure what do I have to loose. In fact years ago I installed floors without snap locks and the EVERY panel was glued. In my opinion a glued joint is actually stronger than a snap lock. - Jak na to + styl
Check out this video to see the tools I use when laying a laminate or vinyl plank floor.
czcams.com/video/jK1uGIgaWlM/video.html
I might of missed it but what type of glue did you use?
Now if you can just explain to my wife why these projects aren't like on TV; I can't edit out all of the headaches (warped floors, out of square walls and rotten toilet flange supports, trips tp the hardware store and scores of other challenges you run into on old homes), cut to commerical and return in 5 minutes looking buff, intelligent, happy and relaxed. After forty years you'd think a light would go on but, if it did, she'd just want me to change the light fixture to fit in with the rest of the house that seems to be in perpetual remodel mode. LOL
I like this video though, very straight forward, simple and well presented. Good job.
Dale, that’s the best comment ever! I have a wife too ;)
The other obvious issues is who has all these tools to install a floor? I have opposite problem. I install hubby watches. Always using make shift tools since I do not have a table saw and all the other fancy tools. Nope never goes “ as seen on TV”😂😂
I'm a cabinetmaker and when I do floating floors here in Australia in my home, I do the same thing works well.Some flooring are too hard to snap in place under door jambs.Excellent video
trying to translate to English what I was looking for but came straight to you, freaking on point, exactly what I was having problems with. Thank you!
This is exactly what I needed to see. Was having trouble working around the door jambs. Thank you!
Man what a simple and clever idea, I’ve been dreading this part of my installation. Thanks!
Yes exact same
Thanks for showing what to use to cut the wood to slide boards under. That makes it understandable and knowing what saw to use to do this makes it possible to install my flooring without worries of it being cut badly to fit. Thanks for the video.
I cant believe how much crap people can give someone who is just trying to help, to all of those critics out here, let's see your wood flooring laying techniques.
Good video bro.
I appreciate that. Can’t please everyone!
Very true. I will highly recommend using disclaimer on the videos description so Angry people over the internet don't blame on you. Great video men keep up.
Yup everyone is a sidewalk superintendent 😂😂but really though take the damm baseboards and ditch the quarter round
The ones that really set me off are the pros who say they're "too busy making money" to shoot their own videos, yet somehow find the time to attack others that do.
@Drew Everett And yet not one single video from you to show us methods that are not "retarded". Guess you're another one who's "too busy making money" to try to help others based on your vast experience - but yet have enough time to hunt down videos like this one and leave utterly useless remarks.
This was a big help to me, thank you! I've been laying some click laminate flooring and had wondered about shaving boards to fit around a door opening so I just slide the boards in under the door jam, but lacked the confidence to know if it was the correct thing to do. Your video confirmed my idea and showed me I was on the right track. Thank you so much from the other side of the pond! 😀👍🏻🇬🇧
Thank you I couldn't figure out how to snap pieces together once they were under the frame. Hallelujah!!
This is definitely gonna help. I have so many transitions into different rooms and I want it all to flow through like this
This was a huge help, thank you! In retrospect, cutting off the edge and using glue seems so obvious, but it never occurred to me. I've spent years (literally) trying to figure out how to snap a piece in under a door jamb, lol.
Do not do this method with bamboo floors. It won't work. I know because I tried it and then had to remove the flooring and redo it.
This is great, working around door frames is a pain. What I have done in the past is slide the interlocking parts together on the short side by tapping the piece in, so you would only have to shave one side.
What a huge help. Was baffled by this issue until your video cleared it up. Many thanks
Thanks for sharing! Great job! Those doorways can be a P.I.A. when running a flow through floor. I totally agree, using the oscillating tool is the best method for cutting out those jambs and trim. I start my flooring on the doorway wall when using T-Molding and running the flooring parallel with it. Just cut > pre-assemble > slip in place and continue on. That way, I'm not all jambed up at the doorway...... LOL. Thanks again and Happy Holidays! 👍😊
Sensational! I've seen others talk about cutting the door jam off, which after just finishing a job I tried, but then I struggled with the "how do you interlock them" question because of not being able to come in at an angle. Maybe next time my job won't look so amateurish
Thanks from England :) - been trying to get my head around how to do but now much clearer - thanks
Hey Janssen
I have finally reached your video after searching for what feels like hours for a good explanation to the exact issue you are describing. It appears I had to do the search in English as all the danish videos didn't solve it properly or explained it in a confusing way.
So despite English not being my native language, I found your video the absolute best and helpfull in this matter.
Thank you and all the best wishes from Denmark.
Best video I have ever seen on solving these problems, thank you!
Thank you for this video! Ive been messing around my door jambs and,around cupboards so i am gona do it all again with your help.
This has always stumped me. Very helpful. Thanks for sharing!
I’ll be using this technique on the next one. Thank you!
I wish I would have seen this sooner. Thank you for sharing tips from the trade!!
Thanks so much for this - really helpful!
Thanks so much! I’ve had problems doing the door jamb thing.
Some products require a transition in all doorjambs I guess for expansion. I've generally started doing that by default as it makes the install a bit easier. You do really nice work here though. Shaving that female joint and glueing is a life saver.
Great job and very professional demonstration.
I wished I have watched it BEFORE I finished my laminate, but well... like for a fantastic idea :D
There’s lots of ways to do this. I do it differently. But your way works well and would work well for homeowners that want to tackle it themselves.
At first I was like that's dumb to shave it down like that. Just measure all your cuts correctly an knock it in place. But yeah I can see how this would be helpful for a homeowner.
Super helpful video. Thanks!
I ran into this today in a pantry closet. I was able to tap them in with a block and maintain factory joint. But thats a good tip.
Huge help, thanks. You drop tools a lot.
Thanks for the info. I was wondering what to do in this area.
The later portion of the video regarding cabinets or opposing walls. You can start the flooring at a 45° angle like he did and use the curved end of a flat bar and pry slightly against the flooring and wall by twisting the flat bar while pressing down on the flooring and it will snap right in no need to shave off the top tab. If you lay it enough you will find all kinds of tips and tricks
Could you post a video showing that
DAMNIT MAN!!! YOU JUST SAVED OUR ASS ON THIS BIG JOB WE ARE ON !!!!!!THANK YOU!!! we were hired by a bigger flooring company to put down L.V.P.so we loaded all the equipment to do l.v.p. and not tile or wood laminate. Drove three and a half hours to the shop and forklift driver drops a load of damn wood laminate. Now I know it's kinda the same with shape how it snaps together and how it's installed..but this part is extremely frustrating without the correct tools and made the job way harder.and cutting in under the door jamb and getting it locked in place has been the most frustrating experience I have ever dealt with just about.i cannot wait till tomorrow to get to work and show this to my boss he is going to be so happy. It is such a struggle that he has himself convinced we are putting them in backwards and that is what is making it so hard.i don't know how someone with 50 years experience with flooring has frustrated himself so bad the it made him think that and know matter how I show him it is impossible to convince him..this is going to change all of that.if it had been lvp it would have been ok because that is a lot more playable and easier to molest it in there but with the wood it is not and it's very easy to chip it or mess up the joint to where it doesn't cnap together and then have to go re cut the piece and try again.i don't think I've been so excited to go back to a job that has frustrated me to the point of almost wanting to quit because between me being annoyed and my boss pissed off because he convinced himself I have him installing them backwards I have had it.he has never installed this flooring before I have but I had my boss doing the door jambs so I never learned the proper technique and he has always just done tile so he took on the job because we were told it was lvp and I have put down acres of that stuff and told him take it we can knock it out quick and it being wood has made it such a struggle and our install time is almost up..but the time this is going to save us tomorrow will most likely make it so we can finish a day early instead of being a day late or someone staying behind and working all night t hit the deadline..thank you so much for this video dude
That’s a real predicament. I hope it works out better now. There are comments on here saying you can force laminate and get it to snap into place without having to cut the lip, but I know some styles are easier than others to work with and the one I was using when I made this video was about impossible to force. Good luck!
Thanks for posting this I was racking my brain trying to figure this out.
Wow thanks. Didn’t think of knocking off one of the inserts
Extremely helpful. Thanks.
That's wonderful machine. I envy you. Also i want to take your machines. Haha. Just joke. Good machine. My country of tile's machine developments speed is not good. And most of old tilers are fraid of development. Because when they learnded and studied from the tile skill of the older than tile's master, they were hit from the master. So they are fraid of change, challenge, and own position shaking. You are a good tile master. I also tile engineer. I have worked for 8 years. I appreciate to you. I am archtecture in Republic of Korea the first grade that pubilish my country. By the way i was wood maker for 2 years. Last i learned from tile master skill of the best of best in Pohang city ( now i live in city). Finally glad to see your youtuve channel. Good study to me. I own my youtube channel that homemaker. Thanks. God Bless you.
Thanks so much. That was very helpful when I got to this point laying my floors.
Haven't done a floor lately (homeowner and been a few years) but the ones I put down you can hammer into snap. As in lay two of them down flat next to each other and hammer hard enough through the plastic block and they'll snap into place. No taking it back apart without damaging one or both of the pieces though. Look at the instructions that come with your planks, should say it if its ok to. Good vid. Always remember to include the basics. So many people skip over the basics.
Thanks for the advice! 😉😉
I've broken the edges of quite a few pieces by flat hammering... which is VERY frustrating when you have just spent ages carefully making a template and cutting the pieces...
Many thanks please keep on doing what you do best
Thanks, I am just finishing up my first floor installation. It went well.I give it an 85 % grade but I struggled with this and was sweating trying to figure out what to do I ended up get them to lock but after so much fighting with it I was exhausted and I still have a little gap around the door jam even though I used the multi tool to cut a space for the plank to go under. On the next floor I hope to get I will use your method.
Now I need to find a way to install around spindles. 😪
Thanks for your video.
Excellent, thank you!!
You helped me, thank you!
Great video. Thanks
lots of great tricks thanks for sharing
Great video . Us regular brained folks just don’t always think outs the box like that 😄
You saved my life!! Thanks!!
Very very helpful. Thank you
i use a cut off piece ( ~6") as a tapping block ...works well too
Another approach is to still lock the longer board in on the other side of the doorway then slide it into place under the jam. The same could be done against that cabinet. That way you're only having to remove the locking and doing glue only on the much shorter side. Nonetheless, GREAT video! GREAT advice!
Can you point to a video where it is done the way you describe?
This assumes that the flooring opposite the transition is of the same height or greater, that currently no flooring is there, and that the jamb is undercut along its whole width. but it is just as he stated. Just slide it in,@@msp9810
@@msp9810you simply connect it together and tap it into place, which will slide the flooring while it’s hugging along the locking piece
This cannot be done. You state to lock longer board in on the other side of the doorway, which would be the side already down. This will not slide through the doorway, since it is longer than the doorway opening. Or are you referring to the reverse which will not work either, since the two pieces go around the door opening and are too long. Your second explanation does clarify anything. Does anyone understand what he is trying to say, or could you try a different approach to explain? Thanks
I think what he suggested is to snap the long piece together but just shy from the door jamb on the short side, they you use a scrap piece on the opposite short end and tap the board under the jamb, that way the long piece at least will be locked with just having to cut the short piece locking tab
Great tip. Thanks!
It’s hard now to imagine a life without an oscillating tool. I have a Milwaukee brushless 18v model and I’d never approach a job without it.
Great video, you sure know how to drop things, LOL.
Thanks for this, it explained perfectly how to do this part where the manufacturer and others were silent on it.
You will see plenty of comments saying never cut off the lip, etc, etc. It works for me and provides good results so I’ll keep doing it!
Literally dont do this. The glue will fail ESECIALLY on thresholds, where the floor tends to be just a bit uneven. Then it will dog-ear, and good luck getting it replaced after you literally cut their locking mechanism off lol. It voids the warrenty.
What he doesnt tell you is how it stops working for him a year later
@@chkchkpap45 Seems to me that a full length seal of glue is mechanically stronger than the click lock mechanism.
@@erichsh58 I think you got that correct however one detail you don't provide in your reasoning is this: Can wood glue withstand the small expansion/contraction that happens overtime with this type of flooring? Does wood glue allow for movement or flexibility or would it crack and fail over time from walking on it? It may be stronger in tension but it may be weak in compression. Something to think about.
Very interesting and very informative 👍 👌 👏
Thanks so much. I was facing this exact situation and didn't think about trimming the lip and then using glue. Good job!
My first mistake is not calling a professional to do my floor! Lol great job!
Even those fuck it up.
Don't woory have seen so called tradesman .it your child is at nusry thaed do a better job than some
All professional means is they’re getting paid to do it.
Thank you for great troubleshooting for us noobs. I think I screwed up the first piece installed LVP female towards the wall! Directions said tongue towards to the wall so male goes on top. However, our small 40 sqft bathroom V-Evo-Max Durato looks amazing! I didn't need to glue down the last piece for transition only trim it down.
I also cut under the frame. Looks so much better.
Recommendation: You must cut the Base Molding minimum, one inch. Otherwise you won't have to struggle much with that cut 1:35
Hello, you have a really good channel, this video has had 1.4 views in 2 years, which amazing, really simple wat to explain how to do it, thansk
When your doing two rooms in laminate flooring is it best to get rid of the floor threshold. Great video
This house we are doing has an insane amount of door jambs almost like it was deliberate just to make our install so much harder hahaha...thanks again man you saved us from making a bad impression by taking too long with this job,our sanity , materials from us chipping pieces trying to get them in and probably a bunch more stuff I can't even think of because I'm so exhausted and over today ..
Never struggled with it, 2 years Cabinet making mightve been an asset but my first laminate job I cut and put in 4 doorjambs, guy who hired me was lile holy shit you cut better than me.
Went to make a cup of tea halfway through, came back and he was still going on!
Why would you search a video on how to do something then leave halfway through?
Great video
Good Job - Thanks
Awesome video great tips
Thank you I appreciate that
Get some ProKnee knee pads my man! No more shifting your knee pads and a ton of support for your entire legs, back, hips etc.. great tips! Thanks for sharing!
You just saved me about three days of work, a lot of money, and a huge headache! Thanks!!!
you could have installed the first one and slid it over keeping the factory locking mechanism then slide the next one in raise up slightly and tap with tapping block
Yeah this is what I did, I managed to get a corner started and the tapping block worked wonders getting that joint closed.
Yup, no need for glue!
Yea that will be coming up or separating in about 2 years
Wrong installation, I’m sorry.
Tried n true glue..thats what they used before locking boards 💪🏻 the joint will b stronger
Great help thank you!!!
Great tip. Thank you.
Is there any chance you have a video you can send me of a before and after look when you planed off the edge
thank you!
Nice job
Good job!
thanks for the video!
Thanks.you saved my mind..
Lifesaver!
Wow I never thought about cutting the lips off that will make thinks much smoother thanks
Thank you👍
Thank you
Great video👍👍👍..
Great Ideas, 👍👍👍👍 thanks
#Respect. i Respect any Flooring tradesman.... epoxy, wood, tile, concrete etc.... the struggles of being on our knees! =/
Well if you ever lose your job the red light district will make you feel like you're at home.
Awesome vid
Very helpful. Dropping things adds a nice humorous touch lol
very helpful. Can you do a close up of where you are planning?
Amazing vid, thank you so much!! I hope this isn't too dumb a question, but why aren't you using spacers?
Glue is ok, but not removing edge is better. Don’t use a tapping block; instead, use a short piece of laminate-lock it in place, and whack the next row into the previous one. By using a discarded piece of laminate, you can hammer the new row harder, without damaging it. Also, use a flat crowbar to lift the new laminate up slightly, while you whack it, so that it snaps easier into place. The crowbar method works when installing under door jambs.
We actually cut a little bit of the bass like about 1in and an end in a diagonal it all gets covered so it doesn't matter and there are also ways of doing it without cutting the locks out I never cut my locks out anymore
Sieht fantastisch aus 🥰🤗
Thanks. It's exactly what I've been looking for 😁👍🏻
Any tips for installation around a wall that that sticks out 8 feet into a room, dividing the kitchen from the living room? I'm running the floor parallel to the main wall, so 90 degrees to the wall that sticks out, and I'm starting at the side where the main wall meets the 'outcrop' wall. I want to maintain consistent floor through both areas. I'm laying vinyl plank. Thanks, your videos have been very helpful!
Hi, you could have connected the first piece (to your right) without cutting the lip. Just join it normally in the middle of the door opening and then, tapping the block you could shift it to the final position along the lock. For the second piece (to your left) indeed cutting a lip, using glue is the only solution. Thanks for the video!
i know it would take more time, but what kept you from taking off the trim, especially in more of a high traffic area?(assuming high traffic with it being a bathroom)