3D Printed CNC Machine V3
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- This is the third version of my DIY homemade CNC machine. Instead of using threaded rods I'm now using (GT2) belts and it has a larger working area of 50x70 cm or 20x27 inch. By using belts it's also faster. To get a better understanding of the machine, also check the previous version here:
• Homemade CNC with 3D P...
I've designed the machine with Fusion 360 and also used Inkscape for the drilling template. To control the machine I'm using an Arduino UNO with GRBL firmware and an Arduino CNC Shield. There are plenty of tutorials to find on how to connect and use it so I did not show it in the video. Here are some useful links:
* [GRBL](github.com/gne...)
* [Arduino CNC Shield](blog.protoneer...)
If you want to build one yourself you can download all the necessary files on GitHub.
GitHub link:
github.com/leo...
The 3D printer I use is an Anet A8. The parts are printed with PLA, mostly 20% infill and 0.2 or 0.4 setting. Use higher infill for parts that must be stronger, for example the stepper motor mounts.
Dimensions:
The tubes are 20mm x 20mm (0.78") square steel tubes. The length of the Y Axis tubes is 1000mm (40") and the length for the X Axis is approx. 820mm (32"). As an alternative you could also use other dimensions than 20mm x 20mm (maybe even rounded tubes) as long as they are approximately that size. The Z axis tubes are 15mm x 15mm (0.59") aluminium square tubes, approx. 215mm long (8.5"). You should measure this for yourself, check the video build. For the belts I'm using GT2 6mm and pulleys.
The effective working area is 50 x 70 cm (20" x 27").
To power the NEMA 17 stepper motors I've converted an old ATX PC power supply and used the 12V output. The type of stepper motors I use for the Y- and Z axis are: 17HS19-2004S1, the type for the X axis is: 42BYGHW811. For the wiring I've used CAT5 network cable.
Software that I mostly use to generate and send GCode:
* bCNC (github.com/vla...)
* Universal Gcode Sender (github.com/win...)
* Easel by Inventables (easel.inventabl...)
* Fusion 360 with CAM (www.autodesk.c...)
Contact:
Website: www.leonvanden...
GitHub: github.com/leo...
hello friend very good tutorial, can you tell me what 3D program you use to design the plans?
I've used Fusion 360 for this design but for my next project I will probably use FreeCAD which I'm currently learning. The reason I'm switching from Fusion 360 to FreeCAD is the recent license change from AutoDesk. My guess is that Fusion 360 will not stay free software in the future. So if you're new to CAD and 3D design I recommend learning FreeCAD. Another reason to switch is that it's not easy to share designs as open source on for example GitHub. You always have to export to STEP files and later import.
@@LeonvandenBeukel can You record a short tutorial where You creating gcode from simple stl object with fision 360 ?
@@LeonvandenBeukel You can 'export...' your Fusion 360 design in a '*.f3d' file (Autodesk Fusion 360 Archive Files) in order to share it with others.
@@LeonvandenBeukel : Someone with a more informed source than I have might like to confirm the following; it is not from any official source, and I am not part of the "In crowd"...
* There is an expense to Autocad where translators are provided to allow files from other systems to be opened or imported in Fusion 360. ( ie: NX, Catia, SOLIDWORKS, Inventor, PTC Creo, etc.). There is also an expense to them when they provide "one-on-one" support.
* The translators (as far as I know) were not available in the Hobby/Startup licence that is to be replaced by the two new licences. ("Startup" and "Personal") Also, there was no support at a personal level.
* If Autodesk are to "woo" users of other systems, they need to provide them with a way to continue using their existing files, and provide them with meaningful support.
* The new "Startup" licence will (I think) offer this.
* The new "Personal" licence will continue to lack translators, and will rely on forums and tutorials for support.
For me personally, this is fair enough. Being given free access to software of this calibre is a real gift for a retired person who is not in a position to give anything in return, other than my heartfelt thanks. There is, of course, a benefit to Autocad from the "Personal" licence... Dad likes to "dabble" with CAD... Dad shows kids what he's done... the kids become fluent in Fusion 360, aided by a 3D printer... the kids look for jobs, and they can boast their competence in Fusion 360 in their application... they get the job, the new employer has reduced training costs... WIN, WIN!
I love what you are doing, thank you so much for taking the time to share it.
*** Invitation to all you serial "Dislikers"; Have a ball! Blow this to smithereens! *** :o)
@@LeonvandenBeukel That is an awesome build. I'm planning on building a CNC like this for a while now.
Could you perhaps provide the Fusion 360 design of the whole machine? Perhaps I'm too stupid, but I could not find it in the Github files.
Hi just want to say thanks for taking the time to share this. I have built this over the last few months during the lockdowns and its working great. I increased the size of the cut area to 80cmx70cm and its still good enough for the projects I've been using it for. I have been using a cheap Lidl trim router for now but will change to the Makita one for a little more power In the next few weeks. But just wanted to say I really appreciate that you took the time to build this and share with us.
Thank you for this! I made my cnc based on your v2 files and I adapted the dimensions to materials and hardware found in the US. Great design, truly had a lot of fun making it and using it!
Can you give me the link of your work
I haven’t posted it anywhere, but I guess I could put it on thingiverse if Leon does not object. But it is also the previous version, not this one.
@@NoTimeForThatNow interested myself as i also made mine with a more available 3/4 and had to redesign some 3d printed parts to make up for the difference in size. How did you do it
BobbyBoy1962 it took a while, over a week, I had a few misses and had to retry. But I basically tried to use all tubular steel, which worked great. I adjusted the sizes of the holes the tubes went into so that the center would still be the center wherever possible. The motor mounts I was able to use bridging to make them very effective and they work both as mounts and as bed stands. The biggest pain was marking and drilling the plywood for the sides of the xz axes and trying to cut everything out of the limited plywood I had. If Leon leaves a comment here that he’s ok with me posting on thingiverse I will and I’ll drop a link here.
Sure, no problem if you share you're modifications. Great to know you've managed to adjust it to your needs. Besides putting it on thingiverse you could also create a pull request on my github page if you want me to put it there too.
I was on my way to order everything I needed to build a MPCNC, but I like your design much more. Well, back to square one on my research :D
Fantastic! Once I have moved to our new house I will very likely start on this project. Dreaming of one for years now. Have used a professional very large one during my scholarship. But always wanted a smaller one for private use. Wonderful Project !!
Hi Leon
For the X and Y linear axes (20x20mm square tube), you should fill it with Acrylic Resin and 3mm metal bars on each side of the tube to avoid bending by the movement and force of the cutter. Thus obtaining better accuracy.
Wilson ...
For the same cost as resin he could upgrade to polished ground rods. This project is an exercise in frugality.
who the hell (those 15) didn't like this piece of art.!!!!!
Those 15 are son of a beaches
Dear Master. Excellent work. Thank you!
In your hands, everything seems so simple and not complicated.
Really nice job! You are improving your machine a lot with each version, thanks for sharing!
Nicely done. I love the perfectly appropriate usage of commodity hardware with 3D printed parts to fill in the gaps. Also, great job on the video!
Now you just need to add the X axis belt mounts to the X axis rail mounts for new users.
Oh, and the existing X axis mounts would be 3x stronger if printed on their sides. :)
Finished building it and very happy with the results. Thanks so much for sharing your design.
Probably one of the best ASMR video's I've ever seen/heard. Good job
The issue you have with your belt is because of the way you designed the belt path. You need the belt to go straight from one side to the other, with the idlers not deflecting it from that line. This way the length of the belt stays constant no matter where you position the y gantry.
Nice !
A little engineer trick if you do some modifications for the X axis : it would be better to have 4 bearings on the bottom rail and the top one rotated 45° (flat) with 2 bearings. So the guidance is stiff (short distance between the bearings on one rail) and you avoid any problem of distance between the tubes (and if one is not really straight).
The same could be done on the Z but as it is smaller it is less important.
Brilliant work Leon, very inspiring!
Thanks for sharing. I will be building one over the next few months. Thais can be used for a number of functions. Great job.
The project turned out pretty neat! Congrats!
Keep up the good work!
That looks way better than mpcnc. thats crazy good.
keep going, great video.
hi man , your system for me is a great source of inspiration , the production cost is absolutly amazing ! nice job man !
Nice design thanks for sharing. I had always thought of building a similar machine but my idea was to use dual V wheels riding on the top and bottom 90deg corners of the square tubing when mounted at 45deg the same way you have mounted them.
Can't get any cheaper to make than that !!, looks good, i would be confident it works nice, probably a unemployed engineer
Super job bro.
When i finish to build my garage it will be the first thing inside of it.
YOUR CNC.
BEST REGARDS
It’s all blue. That’s a win for me 😀
Very clean and frugal design. My only concern is the metal bearings against the metal guides. This can wear and cause inconsistent cuts. Might want to consider hard rubber roller bearings like the material used in skateboard wheels. Other than that great work.
A different design is employed, thanks you have given me a different insight
Thank you very much friend for sharing your knowledge, I am really launching the project. A hug from Argentina, and although I do not speak English the translator helps a lot XD
👍🙂
As part of a school project for the coming year, our team is set with the challenge of making a CNC PCB isolation router. the accuracy and repeatability has to be phenomenal. Obviously highly accurate ball screws and precision linear rails goes a long way to achieving that (apparently). The milling area is only 160mm by 100mm about 6-1/2" by 4" is that the way to write imperial measurements? so the machine will likely be very small. As the only girl on the project, I am their slave, seriously lol.
it will be me having to beg and plead with companies to give us expensive ball screws and the like. Believe it or believe it not the first item I have to acquire is a 3D printer so we can make the plastic parts that presumably do not affect the overall accuracy of the finished machine. You are wondering where this is going... well, I haven't a clue what a ball screw does or even what one looks like, neither do I know what is a suitable 3D printer, but of course you guys do. Could you please tell me what make and model 3D printer I should be looking to "acquire". keep in mind I have to talk a company out of one of these machines so it needs to be arguably what we need, not let's have the Rolls Royce.
I am not after freebies from you guys just your advice and experience.
Oh, does the 3D printers come (in the box) with everything to say make a gizmo? only I noticed in this video the guy pulled a part-out of the 3D printer as if it had grown there! How did the 3D printer know how to make that particular part. Did it use expensive software that if you didn't have, the 3D printer would be as useful as a PC without windows on?
Thank you in anticipation of any advice you can give me.
Miss Sarah Clark, 15 from the UK.
Any 3d printer will come with software, if bought from a company. Only handbuilt 3d printers do not come with software (somebody just buys the parts and puts the machine together themselves)
Your best bet is to Google a "makerspace" near you and ask your questions in person. You'll learn a lot faster than asking in CZcams comments.
Brilliant design, so I built A V3 with a few changes to suit my workshop. Printed all on Tronxy 802 (anet clone). I don't know why but had to rotate a lot of the stl files to make printing normal. Had a few mishaps along the way like over tightening bolts and breaking parts etc. Now putting limit switches on but your info is a bit sketchy on this so a bit of reading still required. One question is on the stl parts list there is a Z axis spacer that a cant find a home for. Found a nice way of adjusting y axis runners I tightened top 3 bolts but left the bottom enlarged hole bolts slack and then inserted threaded bars that holds top and bottom runners together (also slack) then put on a spare piece of 20/20 rail and used wood clamps until smooth and tight then tightened bottom 3 bolts up and tightened the threaded rods gently. Removed spare rail and put onto actual y rails. Mine went on beautifully with no more over tightened threaded bars to break or twist components. Thanks again ******Leon*****
Zdravstvute. And you could not throw me the halyards in STL for printing CNC machine parts and then I do not know how to translate files from the Free Cad format to STL. my mail fedor-popovnin@yandex.ru I would be very grateful to you.
How much did the whole project cost if you don't mind me asking ( let's assume you have all the machines to build it )
Why not cut the parts on your existing CNC before disassembly?
exactly!
Well, ehm... because I didn't think of that 😊
lmao
@@LeonvandenBeukel happens to us all sometimes.
🙂
Nice design but I see a tolerance problem.
On the lower two tubes: Using bearings twice on both sides of the square tubes eliminates play except for slight tube bending in the middle.
On the upper two tubes: Using bearings only on the top of the upper tube and on the bottom of the lower tube will have all sorts of play by only upper tube bending in the middle while the lower tube stays straight. When the (mill) tool will press on the worktable then the inverse will occur where the Lower tube will be pressed upwards and the upper tube will stay straight.
Solutions: 1) Bearings twice on both sides
2) Use springs to press both bearing gliders to each other
Thanks for the suggestions
Now that I think about it...
Not only will the solutions solve the play tolerance problems but gain also twice the.tube strength because of now full support.
damn nema 17 can drag that much structure ! going to build this asap !
nema 17 toy motors not good torque use cnc, has used only 3D printer or laser, need use nema 23 motors minimum.
wat passen die metrische boutjes weer mooi Leon.
daar kan Thomas Sandaal-leraar wat van leren LOL. dat was me het grapje wel weer sjonge jonge.
Very nice machine you have there! Can this handle aluminum?
I liked more the version 2, i adapted for nema 23, and i going to buy spindle strong for aluminium. Thank for your videos. This helped, are the best.
Hello , I wantto do this project for nema 23. But I have a problem this is 3d printed motor mounts are small for nema 23. How did you scale for nema 23?
Thanks
Hello, that sounds interesting! Any recommendations or feedback on your purchase of "the strong spindle"? I'd love to "dig" into aluminium a bit more as well =D
Here is link for Nema23 motor mounts
www.thingiverse.com/tag:NEMA_23
@@miloadams3183 real air cooled spindle have lot better than router use spindle, noise not lot, use aircool 500 or 800W ER 11 or er16 spindle lot better than router. no noise lot. and cheapen.
Thanks for sharing. Just printed the v2
Beyond humbling
Привет. Просто супер. отличная доработка.
Excellent explanation ♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️
Awesome! Thanks for the outstanding video!
Good job Kiddo!
The v2 has been running for about a month now. V3 parts are all printed and electronics ready to order. this is a very well thought out machine and cuts amazing. Thank you sir for all your hard work. Question, now that you have been running the v3 for a bit how do you find the switch to belt drive, any updates or tweaks that you have found? Again, great build and thanks, Bob
Really nice design
Your scewing speed amaze me! :D
That's what she said.
That is absolutely excellent, wish I had the time to build one,
bearings made of harder metal and very quickly roll the track in softer metal. guides will have to be changed every 2 weeks to maintain acceptable machine accuracy.
nice idea, i will cover my bearings with nylon when i make it
@@machiningroom then come weak lot not accurate, normal bearing used and steel rod.
@leon: Currently I'm printing the parts and have some remarks to the left side of Y-Axis. The Y-Mounts need to turned with the long holes to the inner side. The Motor also should be mounted upside down like the right Motor because the way it's shown in your Video you cannot mount the GT2 Belts square to the Holders and Wheel at the Motor. The Direction of the Motor can be changed by turning the Plug at the Channel of the Y-Axis on the Arduino shield.
When finishing my Build, I will post a Video and Pictures as well as a Bulid-Log on my Homempage.
Great job sir as always
Very nice looking last part
Holy shit...
I hit the 'like' button at least 16 times...
Subscribed.
Nice build. Just FYI 4:30 that is a masonry bit for brick
I know, it prevents the PLA to melt
Very good !!! Congratulation, Will be my next project!!
did you use M6 bolt and nut for the bearings? your part lists are not complete.
great video nice work
Why not put the gantry supports upside down? , with motors and bearing housings facing outwards! in order to keep them clean during processing, and also to increase the spindle stroke.
can you please make a lift of hardware need for this, like length of threaded rod needed, and nuts and bolts and stuff like that, please:)
Very nice!!! I'm guessing I could make the actual work area as big as I want by adding length to everything. I need to get it up to 4'X8'. Thanks for posting!!!
Dude You are COOL!
admirable work
congratulations, very good! I intend to use your model to make my cnc.
excellent work .
I have two questions for you:
1st how is the machine stronger, with straps or spindles? Do you think it would be improved by mounting solid square profile (instead of square tube) or do you think that it is not necessary?
2nd with the straps the machine is faster
retains accuracy.
Thank you very much for sharing your talent and congratulations.
Very good 👍
Your art is awesome!
Nice project!, I don't think belts are enough, 6mm ones are way too thin for this, linear gear rails are stronger for a cnc application, if v4 will be designed like this I think I may build one
Also maybe with a hood for sucking the dust around the mill, If you want I could attempt to redesign the holder for the motor to include the channels for airflow to eliminate dust
Great suggestions, thanks. I'm working on a dust collection system
That was awesome. Great job.
Zeer mooie video ik ben van plan deze te maken erg bedankt voor het delen hiervan. In de video gebruik je een A4-tje met gaten die je kan printen, kan je deze ook delen?
I Subd!!!! Awesome job my friend!!! I'm ordering my 3d printer this friday. I'm going to make a cnc machine as well. Do you have any suggestions or things you'd do different? Thanks! Also, what PLA did you use? I love that color!
I bought 4 square tubes for x and y. For cleaning and a bit polishing I put them each against the others and I can see that one of them was bent of +- 2 mm on 1 meter. That could have created a problem hard to find for the accuracy. Check it out! 🤨
20x20 tube have weak lot not strong, normal used 50x50 stainless steel tube. or black metal tube.
good design. but the y belt is not parallele to the side ! (5mm offset). adjust it .
Hello budy, how are you ? Thank you very much for your video and for providing all the information. I intend to assemble a CNC and I will use your project as a reference. My question is, can I cut aluminum flames, pvc, acrylic, ACM, polycarbonate etc with this CNC? Do you think the peojet supports it?
Very nice! I wonder, would you consider sharing the fusion 260 files? I was hoping to do some mods to your design to fit the materials I have and it would be really to have the fusion files. I totally understand if you dont though. Nice work either way!
Awesome CNC! :)
Good job man...I really liked it
Congratulations for the project & build, looks very sturdy and functional!
Which wall thickness did you use for the 20x20 steel tubes? And do you recommend stainless steel or regular?
And how much Z-axis travel do you have with this design? I'm thinking of building my first CNC, but I need at least 60mm Z-axis travel.
I have all the parts printed and are in the process of assembly, but have not completed the z axis yet. I do think you can get 60mm z travel if you mount the router lower, but that could affect cut quality.
I say if it's your first cnc go ahead and build it then modify it later to suit your final needs.
great design
You’re a genius
Sir, have you ever asked when the CNC was working and then suddenly stopped in the middle of the road, how to solve it, thank you.
Hoi Leon, wij denken er aan deze machine te bouwen voor educatieve doeleinden in ons museum. Is het eventueel ook mogelijk deze door u te laten bouwen?
Hoi Merijn, het lijkt me leuk om voor jullie de machine te bouwen alleen heb ik daar helaas geen tijd voor. Daarnaast is het goed dat je iemand hebt die de machine kan bedienen. Voor vragen en/of tips en trucs kan je me wel bereiken via de "about" pagina van dit kanaal.
Eres un gran maestro, le felicito por su trabajo. Es posible cortar aluminio? Un saludo 👍
Could you make a video of the electronic part? thanks
Beautiful design Thanks for sharing
@Leon van den Beukel ,thanks a lot for sharing your creative ideas. How much is the approximate accuracy of this machine? Do you recommend to build a copy of this machine for curving wavy surfaces or ornaments?
Nice! How does the design handle aluminum or do you even use it for aluminum?
This is a very nice build. Why did you go with belt instead of lead screws? What is to get more speed? I'm definitely tackeling this project but I'll have to figure out if this type of tubing is available here. Thanks for sharing this awesome project!
Thanks. I just wanted to try using belts.
@@LeonvandenBeukel Good enough reason! Can't wait to see if there is Version 4!
hey i really want to make one of these but what size rods do i need.. and also any more info on what parts i need like washers and nuts and bolts! hope to hear from you!!
This is a great design and has probably topped my list on design choices now. do you have any comments as to its rigidity? Would it be capable of cutting aluminium? great video, thankyou
Finally!!! Been looking for this kind of video forever. Will try to build one but maybe i will use profile extrusion instead of hollow bar. Thanks a lot for your effort. But would appreciate if you could share where you buy the drill machine. So far i have only the battery drill or normal electric drill. Don't even know the actual name..
Nice neat design.
I was thinking that it can be a fold/slide away unit to fit in my workshop, but I couldn't have a enclosure or fixed base.
Only concern is the wear due to the seams in the box steels. This is only one side, so nothing major.
Hope you left the plan and 3d prints in the discription. Or you have a site to sell the parts...
Good job, but why didn't you use the old one to cut the wooden structure for the new one? Too big or too weak?
I didn't think of that.. 😊
yes, why not, normal first build weak shit wooden cnc and then try made aluminium parts then can do lot better all.
@@LeonvandenBeukel tips, aluminium have lot strongest but can cut and drill same tools than wood. better use alumin.
Hallo ....da ich deinen Kanal sehr gut finde ,habe ich eine Frage zur Y Achse.
Im ersten Video sind die Antriebseinheiten außerhalb des Fräs-bereiches. Was ist der Grund für die innere Anordnung?
Grüsse aus Franken
Super Idee und Maschine einfach toll
Leon, won't you lose a bit of accuracy using belts as there will be a certain amount of stretch as your moving in the X and Y axis.
I made a little mini desktop one and found that as soon as the bit started biting into the wood the belt would stretch a mm or two and then spring back tight as soon as the bit was lifted off the wood, maybe I am using to hard a type of wood?
Excellent project congratulations, I wanted a larger area, but on profile 20 it won't look good, would you have the STL files modified for profile 50?
it is a good update of the previous one. How much does this costed for you?
What a damn good idea with the stone drill 😍
Nice that you are still working at your cnc versions... Personally I love my cnc v2 with tr12x6 at all axis.. Belts are not my favorites for milling machines 😊
@Thu Nell Ⓥ i also dont understand hwy the stonedrill
Hi, very nice.
If I use this project, can I use longer pipes to increase the work surface? there are no problems
Nice Work!
Спасибо. Это очень хороший проект!
Плюсую, хочу повторить его для себя
Очень крутой станок, мне нравится, вам большой лайк))
Согласен, хочу его заделать но не понял где и что так как все на английском 😅
@@3d_i_industries_ua_868 Там все просто. Если есть 3Д принтер)))
Excellent...very nice job.....i love this cnc....
Thank you for your sharing.
Good job.
Are there any issues running your machine using Nema 17's? are they underpowered? Thank you for making this!