Building a DCC-EX Command Station for My Model Railroad
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- čas přidán 11. 05. 2023
- I’m adding DCC to my layout using DCC-EX and JMRI running on a Raspberry Pi. In my last video, I installed a SoundTraxx decoder in my locomotive and now it’s time to get the layout upgraded so I can actually run the locomotive.
You can follow me on Instagram and Facebook @WhiteRiverLine for more photos and announcements
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- Vendors -----------------------------------------------------------------
Arduino - www.arduino.cc/
Raspberry Pi - www.raspberrypi.org/
- Products -----------------------------------------------------------------
Arduino Mega - amzn.to/42NIvXr
Arduino Motor Shield - amzn.to/44WsekP
Raspberry Pi 4B - www.microcenter.com/product/6...
Barrel Connector - amzn.to/3LRxq0K
Motor Shield Power Supply -amzn.to/42vafjT
Arduino Power Supply - amzn.to/44WsRLd
*Note that the Arduino does not need a separate power supply when connected via USB to a computer running JMRI if it only running DCC-EX and does not control other electronics.
- Resources -----------------------------------------------------------------
DCC-EX Install Guide - dcc-ex.com/ex-commandstation/...
JMRI on a Raspberry Pi - www.jmri.org/install/Raspbian...
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Shot on Canon EOS 5D Mark - III www.usa.canon.com/
Edited with Davinci Resolve - www.blackmagicdesign.com/prod... - Jak na to + styl
Hi Drew, thanks to share this video with us. You're a smart guy doing this that easily. Like the way you tracks turned out with all the different shades of colors. Keep on your good work. I can wait to see that wood caboose project ending too.
Thanks Luc. The variation in the shades of the ties are a really nice benefit of hand laying track.
@@WhiteRiverLine I mostly like the way you're doing things. Laying handlaid tracks is something I would like to do one day. It's not because I can't but because I doubt the "resistance et la durabilité" of those tracks. I trust flextracks more because it can move easily, dilate or retract without breaking or desaligned. If I go for it (I already have a 28 x 60 inches module), I will be working with code 55 tracks. And the fact that you're modeling steam era is to my eyes very interesting. That's also why I'm modeling the 70' and 80's. Modern engines and rolling stock is not interesting for me. Too big and lack of details ! Keep on your good work Drew !
Saw your video using servos and one suggestion. I don't use servos with fixed (programmed) positions. I use pots to control the position of the servo for straight and one for divergent. You use the map command: position = analogRead (potS);
position = map(position, 0, 1023, 0, 90);. also I use a small relay to control the frog. Ditch the UNO and check into the ATTINY chips. You can use the 85 chip or if more pins are needed use the 24. $1.50 each.
Great job Drew!
Thanks, Aaron
Been using the original DCC++ ... and the latest DCC-EX ... successfully for many years. Works very well with JMRI and Engine Driver. Using a hand-held R1 Bluetooth game controller with Engine Driver, you can have a simple but useful wireless throttle for less than $10.
I'll probably look into using some sort of dedicated throttle at some point, but the iPhone app seems to work pretty well.
Thanks for the tip, looks like a great controller.
i like your idea of using one of the engine service tracks for a programing track and will be doing that on my layout also.
With DCCEX you don't need a toggle switch for the program track anymore, in the DCC++ command line in JMRI. It will use the mainline power to run into the program track then send a program to the program track and it will send the command like it is a separate program track, then use your throttle and drive away.
Yes, I saw that in the DCC-EX documentation and considered that as method for a dual purpose portion of track. It also states "Any other power command turns it off" which I take to mean that when I turn off track power and then turn it back on the programming track will no longer be joined to the main. So, I would need some method to rejoin programming to main. I suppose this could be scripted or otherwise automated. For me, I think have a physical switch will be the better way to go. However I am certainly open to other ideas.
@@WhiteRiverLine
- Turn power to all tracks on. RETURNS:
- Turn power to all tracks off. RETURNS:
- Turns on power just to the MAIN track. RETURNS:
- Turns off power just to the PROG track. RETURNS:
- Joins both tracks together to be both MAIN (ops) tracks. Any other power command turns it off. RETURNS:
So we just send to use as normal track, and send to use as prog track.
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
As always, thanks, John.
Hello from France superb tutorial what a magnificent achievement you have made with this Arduino for the realization of a DCC central
I thank you for this wonderful transfer of knowledge I wish you a very good day
Thank you very much, Alain. Glad you found it helpful.
Great episode you did well I use JMRI for programming decoders and find it pretty good although difficult function mapping loksound decoders
Thanks, Paul. I'm just getting started with it and haven't really done much customization yet.
great video Drew
Thank you
Very interesting presentation. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Been using the same control system myself. Its great! A little fussy sometimes (i think im overloading the system a little bit but it still works fine so im not too worried yet XD )
Being able to drive from literally anywhere in my apartment is so cool
I've already noticed a little fussiness, but nothing too bad. I suppose that is the nature of DIY systems like this though.
@@WhiteRiverLine and @NathanielKempson can you two describe what “fussiness you’ve encountered with dcc++ex?
@@KenN.OXN.805 For me it seems VERY sensitive to short circuits, so much that when I run my illuminated pullman set it sometimes trips the system, but not enough to shut it all down.....like a micro short circuit. Its really weird.
And also, im cranking too much power through it and asking it to do too much really! The whole layout and some 20 odd points/turnouts aswell. So it gets a little hot, so i stuck a small heat sink on it and a USB powered fan to keep it happy. Occasionally when powering the layout up, the turnout decoders draw so much power all at once it trips out and I have to turn it off and on again untill its stable and not shouting at me about overloads. then it runs fine.
I will be clear, this is MY FAULT, im sending too much power through it and asking it to crank ALL those point decoders and power them up all at once, thats my bad. Before I ran the point decoders it didnt do any of these things at all.
NO idea whats going on, enjoyed it nonetheless! Beautifully weathered loco btw.
LOL, glad you enjoyed it. And thanks for the complements on my loco.
4:41 Actually, getting the DCC-EX automated installer to run on MacOS isn’t that difficult - it‘s just a bit awkward that they made it an application to run in the Terminal and not one you can simply double-click. To run it after downloading (assuming that „Downloads“ in your home directory is your download folder; if not, you‘ll have to modify the path for the „cd“ command in the following example), just open the „Terminal“ application (or an equivalent; I prefer iTerm) and then at the command line type or copy-paste from here (without the quotes!): „cd Downloads; chmod +x EX-Installer-macOS; ./EX-Installer-macOS“ and the installer window should pop up.
You gotta be the smartest guy in the world.
LOL, I do alright.
👍👍👍
Thanks, Mike.
I'm confused - why are you using both an Arduino AND a Raspberry Pi? Can't everything be run thru one or the other?
Gratz on getting things setup Drew. What is your level of electronics experience?
I don't have much experience with electronics, but I'm pretty technically minded. So, I have some good confidence in my ability to learn what I don't know, mostly.
Great timing for me on this video. I saw an IOTT clip that was using DCCEX to support his Engine speed matching kit. I needed to know if you still needed to clip the power trace on the motor shield. Thanks. I noticed something I wanted to ask about with your crimps on the programing track terminal connections. The lugs I got off AZ only have a barrel to crimp to that is very close to the terminal. If I was to crimp on the back of the barrel like yours it would catch the insulation but not the wire. Just wanted to point that out incase it helps. I ran DCC++ a few years ago to get started and it worked great.
Glad the video was helpful. Regarding the crimps, I suspect I've got the same thing going on, that the crimp is only on the insulation, but it can be hard to tell for sure. I've considered adding a tiny bit of solder to them for some insurance. They are working for now, though, and if it start to be a problem they are easy enough to pull off and repair.
@@WhiteRiverLine Sounds good. I'm enjoying your efforts. Thanks.
I like the concept and want to have a go.
What does the Rasberry Pi unit do?
Cheers
It runs JMRI, which programs the locos and acts as a throttle.
Curious about your screwdriver setup. Who is the manufacturer
What is the version of your raspberry PI
Do I need to install the decoder into my locomotive if I use your dcc-ex train system?
What made you go this route over a conventional dcc set up?
Cost was a big factor. The hardware cost me about $100. I also really like DIY projects. It's more fun to me to build my own stuff than just buy stuff off the shelf.
What gauge wires are you using from the motor shield to the connector for the 12v power supply?
It is 16 which is the largest the terminals on the motor shield will accommodate. Even then it is a tight fit.
@@WhiteRiverLine I used some 14. It was the exact size of the terminals but when I power my motor shield with the 12v power, it disconnects the Arduino from the computer and the Mac states “unplug the device using too much power to reconnect usb device” something of that nature. Without that power I don’t get enough juice to power the DCC signal so the loco just sits with the light on making a humming sound and no controls works. Have you ran into this issue?
@@sevenellis410, I haven't run into that issue. You definitely need the 12v power supply. USB from most computers is 5v at .05 amps. Not enough to power DCC. The Arduino is also 5v, the amperage would depend on the power supply used. This is why the motor shield is necessary, it can supply adequate power to your layout.
I am not a DCC-EX expert, this is the first time using it or DCC of any type, so take my advice for what it is worth. First, I recommend verifying that the Vin Connect trace on the motor shield is cut using a multimeter. Second, you might want to check your tracks for a short. Hope this is helpful. DCC-EX provides some other resources for getting help on their website and you are likely to get help from someone there that knows more about DCC-EX, dcc-ex.com/support/index.html.
Hey Drew
What do you think it costed pre foot to hand lay your track
It's about $1.80 to $2 a foot depending on the spacing of the ties. Which is probably about what you'd pay for Atlas and little bit less than Micro Engineering.
Thanks. Hope to see you at one of our club meetings
@@garycooper9574 yes, I plan on coming as soon as my schedule calms down.
You should have kept the wifi for smartphone throttle capabilities
I went back and forth on the wifi stuff. There isn't wifi onboard the Arduino Mega and I was always planning on adding JMRI which adds the capability. So, buying a wifi board for the Arduino seemed like a waste.
Lose the music, it is distracting and unnecessary. Otherwise a good video