Those are some good heavy toe jacks that will be very useful. I like the square tubing idea better than some I've seen that use round tubing. Very nice series on building these. Thank you.
Awesome job and I agree with a Carry handle for the Toe Jacks. What about cutting a slot into the Inner Upright on one side and drill and trap the outer and install a set screw so that it retains the upright assy, to the Toe Jack, Just a thought .
When you unscrew the top of the cylinder of the bottle jack, drill a clearance hole for the threaded top and screw it through the hole into the cylinder again. this way the heel is captured by the top piece and it won't fall apart when you pick it up.
Hi Mr. Lee, I think your method of cutting the space for the toe with the mill is a superior way to do that. Some people don't have a mill and they can nibble away at the cut with the bandsaw and that will work, but it takes a lot of small cuts to get it done. You could put a carrying handle on the outside tube if you drilled a hole through the tube and inner bar and put a clevis pin in there, to lock the tube and bar together, for when the jack is not in use. Just a thought. Thanks for the video! -mike
You asked for suggestions on what I'd do instead of milling the 3rd leg of your cut-out. Oxy fuel or plasma torch, then a file or milling to clean it up. Thanks for what you're doing! Your work is appreciated.
Nice design Lee, simple strong and effective. If i was making a handle, I think i'd drill through the tube top and tap a hole into the upright so a handle with a thread would do the trick. Enjoyed, cheers!
There exists an abrasive flexible round blade to fit in a hacksaw frame. Drill 2 holes and cut between them. The blades are cheap, much better than a blunt or broken end mill cutter. Stavros
For an idea for carrying the jacks. You could drill a hole through the tubing and solid rod and stick a hitch pin in there. Then you can carry it and remove the pin to before use so everything slides better.
This is a good design. I bought one a few years ago, overpaid, and the casting looks really scetchy. It did its job but i keep it low and build up cribbing for just in case.
Nice build. I have an improvement to suggest. A ring under the heel to help the jack from moving off of it. When you showed the example lift I saw the jack slip a bit on the heel. Like the Star Trek theme. Thanks for sharing cheers
You do a great job of simplifying a project, I follow your plans for my 2x73 belt sander with some mods for my situation and available parts. Will be making this even though I have a couple of Railroad Jack's. Hope there isn't a posible binding on a heavy lift?
I noticed that when you started to lift the grinder the main post moved and hence the point where the jack touches under the toe, a solution would be to weld a half inch thick washer with a hole slightly bigger than the round pad on the jack to the underside to keep the jack in place.
Always enjoy your video's! Thanks for taking the time to share you're creative projects. I couldn't help but think if you turned the heel angle iron "upside down" the jack could be shorter and perhaps a little more versatile (versatile - you could lift using the top of the heel for those situations where this might be helpful). Thanks again!
Love the work you do I wonder when I see the newer jack, could you have turned the top piece of angle the opposite way and kept the jack shorter, there seems to be enough room between the bottle and the sleeve
Hey Lee, I enjoyed your latest video on making the toe jacks. Great job and really good use of materials. Fortunately, you had this 3 point hitch connection that made this work so well. Off-the-shelf parts don't fit as closely as those pieces you had. Your videos are clear and well done and I like that you can/do move quickly through repetitive footage to get to more interesting segments. This brings me to my point, what editing software do you use that allows you to clean up your videos and apparently even do voiceovers when needed. Camera info would be nice too but most any camera will allow you to get the point of needing such software.
I use NCH Video Pad. I used their audio product for many years at work so was accustomed to their products. For cameras I use refurbished Canon Vixia units I buy directly from Canon’s refurbished site. Thanks for stopping by
I think, that instead of cutting back the base plate like you did for the one, I'd invest a little bit more time and drill and tap both sets of holes so you could switch the jack to either position as desired...
If you hadn't had the long drill bit, you could have used a standard length bit to drill the outer holes, tapped those, then flipped it over and screwed the jack to the bottom for the two inner holes. A small design change could allow for the jack to be oriented either way. Mount the jack to a square plate, then drill symmetric holes on the square plate. Screw this plate to the bottom, and you could face the jack in line, or to the left or right.
I dunno, Lee, I might just be an old worrywart, but that 2nd piece of bottom plate you cut out for the toe, I would have cut diagonally and welded half centred on each heel, but then the guys always did call me over-kill...
"Let this be your last battlefield" that is a great comparison.. love it
Great video Lee. I learned how to make the 90 degree cuts for my next project. Thank you.
Nice job Lee Those will be pretty handy to have around the shop
Thanks for sharing 👍
Those came out great! Nice design. Thanks for sharing
Great job, they work well. A good project to do. Tony
Thanks a lot, now I wanna build some. Looking forward to the next video and how you come up with a handle.
Those are some good heavy toe jacks that will be very useful. I like the square tubing idea better than some I've seen that use round tubing. Very nice series on building these. Thank you.
I really appreciate the fact that you complete your work including painting. It looks awesome.
Nice design and project Lee ! Thanks for sharing !
10 points to Hufflepuff for the Trek reference! Always enjoy your vids.
very good job
Awesome job and I agree with a Carry handle for the Toe Jacks. What about cutting a slot into the Inner Upright on one side and drill and trap the outer and install a set screw so that it retains the upright assy, to the Toe Jack, Just a thought .
When you unscrew the top of the cylinder of the bottle jack, drill a clearance hole for the threaded top and screw it through the hole into the cylinder again. this way the heel is captured by the top piece and it won't fall apart when you pick it up.
Hi Mr. Lee,
I think your method of cutting the space for the toe with the mill is a superior way to do that. Some people don't have a mill and they can nibble away at the cut with the bandsaw and that will work, but it takes a lot of small cuts to get it done. You could put a carrying handle on the outside tube if you drilled a hole through the tube and inner bar and put a clevis pin in there, to lock the tube and bar together, for when the jack is not in use. Just a thought. Thanks for the video!
-mike
You asked for suggestions on what I'd do instead of milling the 3rd leg of your cut-out. Oxy fuel or plasma torch, then a file or milling to clean it up.
Thanks for what you're doing! Your work is appreciated.
Nice design Lee, simple strong and effective. If i was making a handle, I think i'd drill through the tube top and tap a hole into the upright so a handle with a thread would do the trick. Enjoyed, cheers!
There exists an abrasive flexible round blade to fit in a hacksaw frame. Drill 2 holes and cut between them. The blades are cheap, much better than a blunt or broken end mill cutter.
Stavros
For an idea for carrying the jacks. You could drill a hole through the tubing and solid rod and stick a hitch pin in there. Then you can carry it and remove the pin to before use so everything slides better.
Psst, don’t tell anyone, but I’ve already done that and a couple of other “improvements”. Stay tuned for next week’s follow up video. 😀
If you add a set of return springs from the toe part down to the base it will keep it together and help the jack come down when the valve is opened.
This is a good design. I bought one a few years ago, overpaid, and the casting looks really scetchy. It did its job but i keep it low and build up cribbing for just in case.
I’ve always wanted a low profile Jack. Thank you for sharing this. I will definitely be making one!
Nice build. I have an improvement to suggest. A ring under the heel to help the jack from moving off of it. When you showed the example lift I saw the jack slip a bit on the heel. Like the Star Trek theme. Thanks for sharing cheers
Or just mill a slight circular indentation...
You do a great job of simplifying a project, I follow your plans for my 2x73 belt sander with some mods for my situation and available parts. Will be making this even though I have a couple of Railroad Jack's.
Hope there isn't a posible binding on a heavy lift?
I noticed that when you started to lift the grinder the main post moved and hence the point where the jack touches under the toe, a solution would be to weld a half inch thick washer with a hole slightly bigger than the round pad on the jack to the underside to keep the jack in place.
Always enjoy your video's! Thanks for taking the time to share you're creative projects.
I couldn't help but think if you turned the heel angle iron "upside down" the jack could be shorter and perhaps a little more versatile (versatile - you could lift using the top of the heel for those situations where this might be helpful).
Thanks again!
Your handle could also double as your limit stop. 2 cents worth. Great build
Love the work you do
I wonder when I see the newer jack, could you have turned the top piece of angle the opposite way and kept the jack shorter, there seems to be enough room between the bottle and the sleeve
Instead of drilling quarter inch holes, drill 1/2 inch ones( the size of your bandsaw blade ). That way you will be able to complete your cut.
Hey Lee, I enjoyed your latest video on making the toe jacks. Great job and really good use of materials. Fortunately, you had this 3 point hitch connection that made this work so well. Off-the-shelf parts don't fit as closely as those pieces you had.
Your videos are clear and well done and I like that you can/do move quickly through repetitive footage to get to more interesting segments. This brings me to my point, what editing software do you use that allows you to clean up your videos and apparently even do voiceovers when needed. Camera info would be nice too but most any camera will allow you to get the point of needing such software.
I use NCH Video Pad. I used their audio product for many years at work so was accustomed to their products. For cameras I use refurbished Canon Vixia units I buy directly from Canon’s refurbished site. Thanks for stopping by
Then plunch milling a some before smothing the cut.
Watching your lift you can see the the jack lean into the weight, you may want to add a thickness of the toe to the top of the slide to keep it even
Mantap
I think, that instead of cutting back the base plate like you did for the one, I'd invest a little bit more time and drill and tap both sets of holes so you could switch the jack to either position as desired...
If you hadn't had the long drill bit, you could have used a standard length bit to drill the outer holes, tapped those, then flipped it over and screwed the jack to the bottom for the two inner holes.
A small design change could allow for the jack to be oriented either way. Mount the jack to a square plate, then drill symmetric holes on the square plate. Screw this plate to the bottom, and you could face the jack in line, or to the left or right.
I dunno, Lee, I might just be an old worrywart, but that 2nd piece of bottom plate you cut out for the toe, I would have cut diagonally and welded half centred on each heel, but then the guys always did call me over-kill...
Plasma cutter, then mill to size
Are you going to add a spring to bring the jack back down?
Hmmm, good idea - may consider that. Thanks
@@MrPragmaticLee Then you could just grab it by the top and the spring tension would hold it together... Great video Lee!
You could have drilled holes in a line giving less milling work.