283 Small-block Chevy heads to the machine shop for block and head work
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- čas přidán 2. 05. 2022
- With our small-block Chevrolet V8 engine torn down, Davin heads to Thirlby Machine Shop with the block and heads. The block gets bored to .030" over and the deck gets resurfaced. Then the heads get the guides reamed, new hardened exhaust valves, and a fresh seat cut on both the exhaust and intake valves.
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#RedlineRebuildUpdate #HagertyDriversClub #SBC #SmallBlockChevy #ChevySmallBlock - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Bought a 1969 gmc pickup one time with a worn out 283 in it, had the motor rebuilt to factory spec, put a newer carburetor on it because the original was not able to even be rebuilt, put a power steering pump on it which it did not come with and that engine, threw a 700R4 transmission in, it jerked that truck around like it was a big block! Could not believe how much torque that little motor produced, and it sipped fuel. Ended up using it to pull a 9,000 lb trailer from Southern Arizona to Idaho, cruised along at 70 miles an hour just fine!! Massive respect for the 283
SBC's are excellent engines to learn on (anybody can rebuild one if they have any sense whatsoever)
and this series is a great way to see how it's done.
*Davin's* is the best show on Hagerty - and honestly, he should have his own channel.
Hey - did you all notice the lack of annoyingly loud dub-step background music in the episode?
DAMN, that's so refreshing!
- Ed on the Ridge
It's always great to see the machine shop do quality work to get your engines up and running again! Nice work
This is a great channel for gearheads. I love seeing how quality machine work is done.
We always looked for the silver "Built at Tonawanda" stickers on Chevy mills for performance. The valve covers had a silver sticker stating "Built at Tonawanda".
What is silver Built?
@@ellieprice363 the Tonawanda Plant where the best engines were built, at least 60's and 70s.
@@ellieprice363 Punctuation error.
@@marlobreding7402 Thanks I see that now.
Always enjoy the machine shop section of the Redline Rebuilds. I own an Engine machine shop here in Alabama myself. I heard Davin mention how backed up Thirlby is. I understand we have over 40 engines in line to rebuild. Been trying to hire some help and can't find anyone. At my shop, we are all in our late 50s. If I could find someone interested in learning I would train them and in a few years retire and give them the keys to the place.
I've personally owned 5 283 inch SBChevys 1 was a moderately all out race effort the other two were different levels of street performance the other two were nothing to worry about girly owned motors that were up in the air right .. The first 283 inch were able to really set a high bat .. but for real fact it was the SS/l&K NHRA race cars the Chevy Deuce the 65 SS Chevelle the 62 thru 656 Nova 2 .. The fans absolutely go wild for the screaming 283 even some 289 inch fans out there..., men like Cassel & Robin Brown run low 10s run after run thru a 4 speed and mainly a stock body car ...and to be honest fella's I still get wood everytime I hear another 9800RPM 283 roll thru the gears ...
My dad had a 66 Chevy pickup with the 283/4bbl/4 speed. It would do burnouts for days!
Nothing silly about grinding the flashing Davin. I'm a firm believer in getting oil flow areas smooth and opened up. We would paint the inside of the block after cleanup with DP-40 epoxy (as well as the outside) for smooth oil flow. Man I miss doing that stuff!.... Now I work for the wife :)
Cheers
Still paint inside today valleys and behind the cam.
I grind of all the casting flash. And radius returns. But leave the rest. The oil should not go back too fast as it takes heat out of the iron. Painting is bad news, holds heat in the iron and when it flakes off blocks up pickups.
I grew up riding in a Chevy Malibu powered by a 283. I absolutely love watching this whole sequence. THANKS for making this video!
Got my 351 Windsor fired up for the first time today. Thanks for the motivation and education!
It’s awesome that the Redline Rebuild Cherokee is earning its freshly rebuilt stroker engine!
Love the machine shop trips really educational and always nice to see all the work that goes into getting an engine ready
=.030 give you a 288 ci ! i love small ci v8`s i had an old chrystler 273 v8 300,000 miles until it ran out of rings = subaru now turbo great fun .
Definitely enjoyed it. Thank you all.
Love it when they go to Thirlby's
This is the part that fascinates me - love seeing these very-skilled guys work!
from old and grimy to blasted then on to cut and machined. This process feels good every time. I'd love to find a machine shop that would let me do the process with them on my old 350 :)
I’m loving this engine rebuild. I’ve got a 1966 Chevy C10 283/3 on the tree that I got from my neighbor when I was I think 8? I’m almost done with college now and I’m hoping to start on that trucks soon and this series is really going to help me figure out what I should do with the engine.
283 is a fantastic little runner. Mods for days. Parts everywere. Good luck. Have fun
@@ronconrad3507 But nothing can replace good ol'350 SBC:)
I had a C/10 w/a 327. 👊
In high school I had a Toyota 4x4 Landcruzer w a old vet 327 conversion. 202 Heads thing was Animal.
Davin, it's such a pleasure to watch this process. Thank you.
In my life, I have built 8 to 10 283 cu in most of them mild performance but 3 of them were screamers. 2 with 327 crankshafts with .060 overbore and 302 chevy piston and trick rods one with angle plug heads and 1 with 202 small chamber heads, and 1 with .030 bore and 194-160 heads, all had GM camshafts. Fun with small cubic inches.
I really like these videos, your patience and talent for instruction are a big plus. I always learn something new, good stuff. Thanks
I really enjoy watching your videos. It’s very informative for a weekend warrior and you do things like they’re supposed to be done; with care and correctly. Thanks for your show!
Don't think we have forgotten about seeing that Jeep on a dyno! We still want to see what numbers that thing is putting on pavement, even if maximum power wasn't the goal of the build.
Working on putting some easy miles on the engine before we full-throttle it on a dyno!
@@Hagerty Well when you put it that way, I guess I'll just have to be patient!
My best channel ever thank you Hagerty and Davin ❤
Awesome job Davin!! Like always great job on explaining everything. I like to learn from every job you do on an engine!
I love the attention to detail on the block, Davin, sanding down the casting flash, etc.! Nice! This is gonna be a sweet engine...✌️❤️🙂🇨🇦
I really enjoy all this machine work with the explanation of Devin really cool !!!
Nothing wrong with grinding off casting flash mate
It keeps everything nice and clean and it gives you a chance to have a really close look at the block and the heads and you tend to pick up hairline cracks as a hidden benefit
Love watching a SBC get new life and run through a machine shop.
Nice and fresh....👍
How many times have you looked all over for your sunglasses until you finally remembered you have them hanging from the BACK of your T-shirt neck like at 12:07 LOL?
Hey what a great video with the walk thru in the machine shop it's always great to see what goes into this before assembly
used to have a bored and stroked 283 with hardened seals. put a big dirty edlebrock on it and advanced the timing till she barely idled. got single digit fuel economy but DESTROYED my uncles 396 chevelle.
Stroked how? With a 327 crank?
Fantastic work! Love the metal work!
Excelentes videos!!! es fenomenal ver cómo ingresan motores muy antiguos y salen como recién hechos para salir a rodar, además de esa calidad de demostrar solvencia y capacidad de cubrir ya no sólo motores que deberían ser reconstruidos con sus piezas originales, sino de ver cómo se puede colocar otras piezas que al final sólo resultarán en una conclusión: hacer funcionar el motor inclusive con mejores resultados... gran capacidad de Davin como maestro en el arte que practica...
I never had a problem getting them out, problem I had keeping the keepers in 😂
Thank's for the class, Mr Davin! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thanks, I enjoy you work and learn from you.
Those oldtime machine shops,if they could tell their stories, great work on the operator end,their experience is always amazin.getting fewer an fewer of them.,as time goes on.
not first and not last 🤣 . I subbed some time ago , enjoying this channel and " I do cars " , you rebuild old engines , he ( Eric ) tears down engines to find out what kind of carnage there is inside .
Great progress. Thanks
Man i wish i could work and learn from him. He should def take highschoolers in his shop and pass knowledge along.
I've had several 283 in the original cars and trucks but never tore one apart now the 350 I had got the treatment and ran like crazy.
Subscribed. Love the videos!
Block machined on 6/6/66... next stop church
Heal your split fingertips with "calc fluor 6x cell salt"
Great channel. Machine shops are like unicorns it seams …
Nice job on the heads, I would have Knureled the guides, but the seals will work just as well. Take care.
Gramps
Knurling them is some old school tech that was used just to get by without inserting new valve guides, only used if they're too loose.
Please Davin, if you are EVER going to wear safety glasses, do it when removing valve spring keepers. Geez my palms were sweating when you looked at one directly @1:23
Nice done 👍
Love me a small block
I might be a bit paranoid here, but I try to avoid magnetizing anything in engine as it will then make all metal shavings stick to it. For keepers it might not be a problem, but fishing out lifters with magnet can magnetize it's working surface. Just my 5 cents, video's awesome as always.
Yep, I just commented this. Good to see others aware of it. It isn't a problem AS LONG as you demagnetize the parts later with a demagnetizing device or you're going to replace them anyway. For flat faced hydraulic bucket lifters, the suction cup ends of a valve grinding stick work great to pluck them out. :) Stick it on, pull it up out, and pop the suction cup back off. Otherwise, long and angled shop tweezers are very helpful.
That's crap. No freaking way.
Good video
thanks for not setting the speed up on the video.👍👍
Great video
I always do some polishing of the ports and take a bit out . Might as well try and get the advertised HP out of it .
I swear I only went 20 seconds into the video and I'm guessing those heads are Power Pack heads. Small chambers and small valves, but high compression and good for some great power when larger valves are installed and some minor porting. I know, I had a set and when they were worked over, with my 0.40 4 bolt block, cam, stall, and gears, I could yank the wheels up in my 1967 C10 at the track. Now, I'll finish the video.
4 bolt what kind of block?
You sound exactly like Walter Sorrells, a knife making CZcamsr…it’s great!
God bless the SBC.
If you dont like casting flash you would hate to see the factory 350 in my 72 C10, when I first got it I couldnt believe how much there was .
Nice...👊🏻
When working with springs under tension, you should wear eye protection.
Might I suggest 2 things? First, if you're putting a super heavy block and heads in a non-pickup vehicle, *secure them* with a HEAVY strap! If you get in a crash, that XXXlb block will fly directly into the back of your seat and crush you into a pulp. :( Extremely dangerous. The bed wall of a pickup makes this less of an issue but it still is a good idea to strap the heavy parts in place. Second, if you use a magnet to pull the valve keepers or valve gapping shims or hydraulic buckets during teardown, make sure to run them through a demagnetizing coil to remove the slight magnetic field you created when pulling them out with the magnet. Otherwise, they will always remain slightly magnetic after assembly and then collect ferrous wear particles out of the circulating oil and from themselves and hold them around the contact face of the valve tip and rocker pad/socket. The rocker will use that stuck metal particulate to grind away those surfaces at an abnormally higher rate compared to factory. You can probably make your own demagnetizer coil for very cheap. 💪😎
Don't waste your time. If I was that worried about magnetism, I'd replace the keepers. I usually use new ones anyway, they're cheap.
Gavin is such a showman. It would be hard to have to be aware of the camera and your hands and where you place the stuff your taking apart for cinematic viewing.
Not a lot of machine shops left!
Thumbs up, bell on, subbed. Awesome video
Can't go wrong with a SBC!
Hey , I really would like to see the straight 8 Buick engine you rebuilt , it the car and running, the sound. The improvements that were made had to change the exhaust note.
Now don't be sad
A 283 ain't bad
点赞
Hey, I was born in june 6th, nice coincident. 😍
So, you were therefore conceived during your mom's August-October menstruation cycle, right? 🤔 Easy to understand. The seasons start changing, it gets a lil chilly outside. Babe wants to cuddle up and get warm. Spooning leads to forking! 😸😸😸
Hay David, in regards to the compression. Doing the relief for the intake valves, witch willing reduce compression. You decked the heads witch rises it. Will it even out compression or do you hav2 play with the head gaskits ?
As always, great video. Take care and see you on the next one.
Yup! They cancel each other out!
CCing the combustion chambers is a nice additional step but usually not done except on racing engines.
I would love to Know of a good machine shop around here. The one in town has some negative comments from many people. I have used him when he was working at another shop and wasn't satisfied.
Will the heads (and intake) be milled to recover compression lost to the clearance cut next to the intake valve?
They resurfaced both the block and the heads. Resurfacing the block effectively makes the piston crown come up higher toward the combustion chamber pocket of the head and raises compression. When they resurfaced the heads, that removed metal and lowered the combustion chamber down toward the piston crown even further, raising compression a teeny tiny bit more again. I will posit that both resurfacing cuts cancel out one another as some volume was removed and then some volume was added back again. The pistons they choose to use will affect the compression that they end up with much more than these cuts though. If they use the stock shape and dimensions, that's one compression. If they use a domed or taller crown style, that's more. If they use a dish, that's lower. I'm guessing they will either keep the compression near OE or possibly raise it a tiny bit for a little more performance. This sounds like it's going to be a very mild street driver on 87 pump gas, so probably nothing over 10:1.
I'm surprised I don't see the oversize valve stem solution used more often. If an engine needs new valves and guides at the same time, why not?
I see the 4.0 Litre HO emblem on the back of your Jeep. Maybe it would be fun to make a replacement emblem to say you have a 4.6 stroker?
We’re designing one to print on our 3D printer!
@@Hagerty Thanks, that will be exciting to see.
I noticed you referring to the engine number suffix. I'm dealing with one that isn't on any of the SBC lists that I can find (EDY). Any ideas? My engine was built for OMC.
What happened to the race car? You haven't touch that thing for 8 months.
Wish my machine shop would drop everything and get my rotating assembly done. It's only been 4 months..
A little bribe would get you going. 🤷🏻♂️ "Hey there shop crew! Look what I brought! Coffee and doughnuts! Have as much as you want, breakfast is on me! Hey shop owner, here's $50 if you accidently forget the customer order and do my job next. Easy mistake to make, you know? All these cranks and pistons, it's easy to mistake a date on a tag or invoice. None of the other customers gotta know about the slip up. I just got this Grant from the bank. Still crisp."
@@mannys9130
Won't do any good wirh these guys. They're slow, but do great work. The only thing that I can do is have patience...
305 HO heads or new valve seats 🤷 for my 283!?
Who makes that valve spring compressor that he uses in the beginning?
Do you have double hump heads ? Usually have double springs & pinned studs.
Usually? If a racer took the time to do it.
Your supposed to use the seat belt... you never know who's watching you on here bro lmao 😂😃😃
How did it get so clean after "baking" it? What happend there?
I thought lead was used to boost octane not for lubrication. Can you explain how lead lubricates?
You are correct that it was mostly octane that necessitated the use of the lead. Lead metal is soft and so is the material produced when the leaded gasoline was burned in the combustion chamber. The combustion products coat every surface just as carbon can be seen to do. That lubricates everything that is coated in it. :)
Do you use serpentine belts for engine hoisting?
I have seen those used as well as timing belts and seat belts. :) I think timing belts are stronger than serpentine belts, and seat belts are super duper strong. Timing belts have a lot of load during use, and seat belts have to stop effectively a 9,000lb person and not stretch or rip at all.
never had anyone sandblast a vlock kinda seems a bad idea really with lifter bores in mind
What's happening with the old race car??
Unfortunately Snowball died last October but there's been no word from anybody yet on if the car will be finished or not.
Why haven't you did a 3 angel job on the valves?
Are the valve seals only on the intake side?
Since intake ports are under vacuum, the intake valves will suck oil and crankcase air down through the tolerance gap of the guides and into the combustion chamber during use where it carbons up the valve backside and is burned in the combustion chamber. Exhaust ports are under pressure because the exhaust gasses are being ejected whenever the valve is open. That will have a tendency to blow gas up through the guide and prevent oil from dripping down it. If you're going to seal one valve positively, it should be the intake. An umbrella shield can be used for the exhaust and it'll work alright.
I don’t know what kind of budget you’re working with, but I definitely can’t afford to send a dressed head to a machine shop.
Everytime i take a set of heads into a machine shop for a rebuild they chop the umbrella seals up in a couple hundred miles.
The larger plugs went thru even 327, 305 and many 350s
The heads you see are low comp. Heads if 283
I had a set of power pack heads that had very small combustion chambers
The early 283 blocks would bore to 4 inches to make the screaming 302 that would sure tear up the sinc ros in the trans back then.
Great memories
Please tell me you threw the original intake manifold in the trash where it belongs?
Put this in the green truck behind you???
Not double hump heads. What's the difference?
Where is the truck pick up for send the blocks
Это нормально - такая конская ширина фаски у седел?
comment for the algorithm
Don't them purdy?
Why is there so many dislikes?
I really don't like reaming out the entire seat & pressing in "hardened seats" for the unleaded gas "issue". That engine has survived just fine from unleaded gas implemented decades ago now. If the original seats are worn to the point of critical valve recession, using slightly oversized valves & cutting new seats is a better route. The first time one has to deal with an insert letting go inside a running engine with the resulting carnage...you'll change your mind about seats in short order.
I have a question??? I was always told that the easiest way to identify a 283 was that it had a 13/16 plug as opposed to the 5/8 plug in all other Chevys… is this true or false??
Not true. The 13/16 plug was used in all SBC till the 5/8 plug showed up in 1970.
@@johnherdener6801 so all small blocks had a 13/16 plugs til 1970!! Or just the 283??
@@nobodyspecial6436 All mal Block used 13/16 till 1970. In fact most GM engines used 13/16 plugs till 1970.
@@johnherdener6801 well i had a 327 date coded 1966 which had a 5/8 plug…just googled it a little deeper and maybe my engine had different heads installed at some point… they were 2.02s i know that
@@nobodyspecial6436 Yes, they may have been switched to later heads. Also all 5/8 heads had the accessory bolt holes on the end which 13/16 heads did not have. The other possibility is someone put the wrong plugs in. Both 5/8 and 13/16 plug have the same threads. While 5/8 plugs will thread in and seat in a head machined for 13/16 plugs and work OK for the most part you can't get a 13/16 plug to seat and seal in a 5/8 head as the body of the plug hit the head casting preventing it from seating. Also there were 2.02 heads in the 13/16 plug style as early as, if i remember correctly, '64 or '65.