DRESSING FOR A ROYAL AUDIENCE | FORMAL DAY DRESS (MORNING WEAR).
Vložit
- čas přidán 1. 08. 2024
- If you would like to support future content, a donation would be deeply appreciated via the 'buy me a coffee' website - www.buymeacoffee.com/thechaps....
In this video I take you through my decision to wear formal day dress (morning dress) when I was recently invited to an audience with HRH The Prince of Wales at Windsor Castle.
We revisit the origin story of this mighty garment and consider its application in modern daily life.
Don't forget to check out my Instagram feed for daily chap updates: chapsguide
If you have a question to pose The Chap's Guide, please send it to: ash@chapsguide.uk
=============================================================================
Equipment used in this filming of this video (Amazon links):
Camera - Canon Eos 250D: amzn.to/3bFaY7F
Lens - Cannon EFS 24mm f/2.8 STM: amzn.to/3aFT0kd
Tripod - K & F Incept Tripod: amzn.to/3eR5BEy
GorillaPod - Joby: amzn.to/35cJW5d
Shotgun microphone - Rode Video Mic Pro: amzn.to/3aKoSEw
Lavalier microphone: amzn.to/3cOEuYM
Studio lights - Neewer dimmable 2-pack LED studio lights: amzn.to/2Y6BsLB
#chapsguide #ashjones #styleformen - Jak na to + styl
"Who on Earth has a full set of morning dress in their wardrobe ready for just such an occasion?"
Don't be preposterous. I have three sets. One would simply not fit the bill.
I'm not joking on owning three, by the way. One black, one charcoal, and one light grey suit, plus a stroller if you want to include that.
A few notes to really dig deep into morning dress:
- Balmoral or button boots with a black, grey, or white insert are permissable.
- Socks can be clocked or plain, but never crazy. They should be black or grey.
- Trousers can be checked or matching a three piece suit, along with the standard striped. Never plain and mis-matching. Trousers should never have cuffs.
- Braces are a wise idea.
- The shirt is permitted to be a Winchester (contrast collar) shirt in a variety of colors. It can be striped or plain, but it must have white collars and cuffs. Traditionally, the collar is detachable and starched, and either turn down or club-collared (not wing-tipped). The shirt should always come with single or double cuffs and be worn with cufflinks.
- The waistcoat should always have the bottom button buttoned, even if it's single breasted. This goes for black tie and white tie, too! Traditional colors are black, light grey, buff, or robin blue.
- The coat can be light grey (with at least matching trousers, and only in summer), charcoal, or black. It should have peak lapels. It should have one button, and be closable either normally or with a link front (extra button).
- The tie can have varying patterns, but grey checks are the most traditional. Technically, bow ties may be worn. A black tie should be skipped unless worn to a state funeral.
- Pocket squares should be relatively conservative.
- While our host may chose to wear a Rolex and still be stylish, traditional authorities recommend a pocket watch or no watch. A wrist watch is considered too informal for morning dress by many.
- Braces should be button, tie should be self-tie, and pocket square shouldn't be pre-folded.
- The fit should be close and body-hugging without being tight. Remember: even if you think it fits, unless you really know what you're doing, like our host here, see a tailor!
Optional Accessories:
- A black top hat, either in a silk plush or satin collapsible variety, or light grey felt with a matching light grey suit in summer (a top hat is mandatory at Royal Ascot).
- A tightly-wrapped black umbrella, or a walking stick.
- Dress gloves in chamois or grey.
- A dark, conservative paletot (a double breasted, peak lapel overcoat) for cold weather.
- Spats in light grey or white.
- Slips underneath the waistcoat, to give the impression of a "double waistcoat".
- A tie pin or tack.
Variations:
The Stroller(US)/Black Lounge Suit(UK)/Stresseman(Germany)
- Daytime semi-formal, the daytime equivolent of black tie.
- Swap out the morning coat for a black or charcoal suit coat, preferably with peak lapels. The suit may be single or double breasted.
- The trousers should be striped or checked.
- Appropriate hats include the bowler or homburg, or the boater in summer.
- The waistcoat can be skipped with a double breasted coat.
The Ultra-Formal
- Incompatible with the stroller.
- Considered obsolete by some traditional authorities, and banned at Royal Ascot.
- Swap out the turn down collar of your shirt for a detachable wing tip collar.
- Put on a self-tie formal ascot/formal cravat/plastron in silver. Tie it in a wedding/scrunchie knot (essentially a four-in-hand) or barrel knot. If tied in a barrel knot, secure it with a tie stick pin.
This should be comprehensive enough to cover every base!
A superb addition to the advice I gave in the video. Many thanks for the fantastic tips/
And if you break one single of those rules you are dead! Sorry haha being high spirited. Morning dress is top of formality. Don't try if you don't know what you are doing better ask for advice. And you sir know very well your domain.
@@TheChapsGuide Thank you, and you're welcome!
@@viclucyzia I appreciate it. I've spent years obsessively studying these things. It's my passion in life.
I noticed Prince Charles was the only member of the Royal Family wearing a slip with his waistcoat in photographs of the late Prince Philip's funeral. As you say, at first I thought he was wearing some kind of white under-waistcoat.
Congratulations on the award Ash! I love morning wear and wish there were more occasions to wear it in this day and age. Here in North America you almost never see it.
Consider wearing it to matinee operas and ballet. White tie is considered acceptable for the opera, so in turn, morning dress could be worn for it as well. You might also want to consider it for some sort of regal afternoon tea event. If you really want to wear it but have no occasions, just make one. Wear it to lunch at a nice restaurant. The only thing stopping you is you.
Congratulations on your award. You don’t often get a chance to put all your skills to the test. You did excellent.
Congratulations on the award Ashe, it must have been well deserved.
Congratulations on the award, Ash!
Congratulations on the recognition you received for service to the Country.
Congratulations. What a stupendous honor. Having served with many officers of the Commonwealth it has been exciting to learn about these Royal honors to citizens. As a man also of Welsh extraction, I had no idea there was a national dress. That was interesting to learn. Thanks for a great channel and fascinating discussions.
Congratulations Ash! I love the channel. It always puts me in a great frame of mind for the day. Much appreciated.
Came for the morning attire, stayed for the stories surrounding this acquisition of yours. Thanks, Ash!
Hope you enjoyed it!
Congratulations Ash! So classy. Well done! 👏🏼
Congratulations on the well-deserved award Ash! Lovely to see the morning suit in use... As a whole outfit it just exudes propriety and elegance. I'm slowly in the process of building mine now as you say via ebay and vintage stores, where exceptional examples can be found for very little. I was lucky enough to come across a Rubinacci bespoke morning coat in charcoal grey flannel that fits perfectly for 60 Australian dollars (around 35 pounds)! Patience can be a virtue when it comes to assembling a classic wardrobe... Thanks again and keep up the great work!
Congratulations, Ash. Whatever it is you are doing on your channel, it is obvious that you have put a lot of thought & effort into it. And so it is, I imagine, with everything you do in life. A kind & elegant gentleman, (with a tad of non-conformity, of course).
It's a pleasure again to be on the "Chap's Guide with you Ash !
Ash, BZ on your award. I recently discovered your channel and have really taken a liking to your charisma and knowledge. I too am a serviceman, who is currently at the start of their career. I relate with the importance of a smart dressed chap! May you and your family be well over the holidays and all the best with the new year.
Welcome aboard! I am delighted that you have been able to gain some useful tips from my content, I hope that you also had a great festive season.
Thank you for your service - Ash
Congratulations! Excellent video!
Ash. You made me smile when you said EBay as I said it with you. 😁 congratulations on your MBE. I acquired my Coast Guard aux. Mess dress on EBay and have worn it often. For awards ceremonies and also to a few balls. Thank you for the history of the morning suit I hope always liked the style and look of the morning suit. Cheers Ron
What a wonderful video. Firstly congratulations on the recognition for your service. This video is proof positive that being well dressed has nothing to do with spending lots of money, but more so being thoughtful in your purchases.
Thank you so much!
Ash, I would love to see a video about the award. I think you probably want to keep it low key, but I think it is something that deserves to be shared! Congratulations, Steve
I'd appreciate a video on the black lounge suit or stroller suit as a step down but still semi-formal choice for daytime. Cheers!
My regards to his majesty hope he is doing better and best regards to your family and your services to the Royal family military and police force
I can understand why you felt a million dollars Ash, because you certainly looked it. Congrats on your award. A treasured moment in all respects. Have a great Christmas. Cheers! Phil
Very informative - although there really isn't anything that reaches this level of formality here in Canada. Congratulations on your honours - I'm sure they were well deserved. Cheers!
Congratulations Ash very smart indeed
Congratulations on your award and you do look very smart indeed
Thank you!
Well done Ash. Great to hear that you've been given another award, and nice to see your splendid outfit. I wish I had more opportunities to wear such clothes. On second thoughts, I'll try to create my own occasions 😆
I have always subscribed to the mindset of "you make your own luck". I suspect this will have been my last such opportunity, but it was a great experience.
You should do a White Tie guide!
My favorite episode so far. Ash you are weirdo. Congratulations all the way from California where Morning Dress would be almost impossible to pull off.
Thank you so much!!
You might be interested in the following: A Ceremonial Service for the Order of the British Empire is planned to take place on the morning of Wednesday 16th November 2022 at St Paul’s Cathedral.
Further information regarding the Service, including how to apply for tickets, will be announced on the Central Chancery website in the Summer. Please be aware we will not be in a position to accept early applications.
I am impressed as whatever you start you achieve it with success. Whether your Organisation in helping the elderly, your career in the military and police, your CZcams chanel and now with you getting honors. Congratulations Sir!
Shall we call you soon Sir Ashley Jones?
I think that is a step beyond my abilities, I was flabbergasted to receive anything at all!
I’m a weirdo 😂…..yeh but we love you for it!
Would love to see a video for White Tie :D
Informative and Entertaining, Infortaining even? Another great addition to your channel. I congratulate you, again, on your MBE (a quick internet search brought up the reasons you had been awarded it) and your previously awarded LoM. I concur, EBay does turn up some gems. I acquired a Harris Tweed overcoat for a shade over 20 Pounds Sterling. I doubt I will ever have the need for Morning Dress, but I now have designs on owning a set.
The wonders of Ebay, keeping us frugal chaps looking great (and warm) for pennies!
Congratulations
Congratulations, Sir.
Thank you!
Looking the part of a genuine chap! Brilliant. Have you ever attended Royal Ascot?
Not yet.
Nicely done, but I think a gray vest would be more appropriate to the occasion?
Congratulations on the award Ash, looking the business as always, would like to know what cologne or fragrance you chose or would recommend as a footnote, and etiquette regarding eating and drinking, how does one sit down in morning wear? Otherwise excellent content as always.
I did give my fragrance some thought prior to the event and went for a classic, Floris 89.
Morning wear is actually very easy to wear and ideal for all one's daily activities, easy to move and not too restrictive at all. Should wear it more often, although I would stick out like a sore thumb anywhere other than London!
Congratulations Ash! I finally got around to this one. Love your clan tartan. It that a Glen check suit that you showed?
What's your view on tuxedo's?
Regards,
Starlight
I wish I could wear one every day, although may look strange with my family wearing sweatshirts and pajamas at the dinner table.
Now how can the waistcoat be in. Style and color to pair with
As a Scotsman, I would have been kilted right up, but it does raise the question, what exactly is English national dress?
Better to own and not need to use it than to not own and need to use it.
Congrats Ash!
Question would a stroller jacket be acceptable?
Full mourning dress was suggested by Buckingham Palace as the dress option of choice (only a recommendation and many gents did defer to business suits). A stroller would have fitted the bill, but I think a full-on effort is required when meeting The King.
An assembly of fellow weirdos return your salute!
First of all, thank you for presenting one of the most underrated dresscodes for gentlemen today.
With your permission, I‘d like to point some minor inaccuracies in this outfit. For instance, the waistcoat is not really the correct choice, as a black waistcoat is part of the funeral version of morning dress, not the standard version appropriate for an investiture. Even if the colour were fitting, however, the cut would not be as the waistcoat for the morning coat goes down further than a 1990s lounge suit waistcoat; this fact can be seen in the picture of all Royals wearing morning dress.
Also, since a pocket watch is positively required with white tie (if a watch is worn at all) and at least strongly advisable with morning dress, the choice of watch might be subject to criticism, especially given its metal chain and large size.
If I am correct in characterizing the tie as having no pattern and being made from silk satin, this is also quite a modern, albeit not exactly wrong option.
Lastly, the cuffs of the shirt are a tad short when you stand with arms hanging down; then again, this is a traditional British style feature.
In summary: a fairly good start on the morning coat. Maybe swap out waistcoat and watch, then it shall look even more sophisticated.
Truly amazing video! It is a great honor to be at the royal reception.
By the way, do you speak Welsh?
Not a great deal, it is not very widely spoken in the part of Wales that I originate from (the South)
Also the lighter coloured double breasted waistcoats is by no means “new” gentleman have been wearing them for a while now I have pictures of gentleman in there clubs in the early 20th century with there pipes and cigars with there elegant morning suits displaying there suit and light coloured db waistcoats
For me the kilt is only wheeled our on the most important of occasions. I always find myself thinking about the next opportunity to wear it...still waiting for my call from Windsor though...perhaps you can put a good word in for me Ash....
Good word offered!!
Congratulations, indeed.
I assume you, thinking of the dress code, know that there is an old couplet over here (US) ,at least. Only two counties do not have national dress, on formal occasions everybody dresses as a Briton, the rest of the time they dress as an American.
Congratulations and thank you for the informative video. I have been interested in acquiring a morning suit for a while, though where I would wear it here in the States I have no idea. Quick aside, would National Dress include Tribal Dress?
I believe it would. The monarch is the sovereign of many nations that would have tribal dress as their national dress and I think this would be entirely appropriate for such an occasion.
Congratulations, Ash. I've been a bit put off formal day dress as I think it looks great, but I'm a shorter man, with a longer body and shorter legs. I was worried the long coat and the trousers wouldn't be flattering. Would you have any thoughts on that?
The striped trousers certainly enhanced my height (I'm 5'9'). A good tailor would also be able to add proportion to the length of the coat. Worth thinking about if you need an excuse to go down the morning dress route.
Congratulations on the award! Was it an MBE? Also I'm always dying to do morning dress, it's what I plan to get married in
It was an MBE, a worthy excuse to pull out the Morning Dress
Shame you missed the real most formal thing, the frock coat.
I still wear it with bowler or a top hat.
Love morning wear. Curious; what cologne did you pick for the event?
Good question. I recall that I did not want to overwhelm HRH when standing just 24-inches away, so I opted for Floris 89. Classical and undoubtedly well known to the Prince.
@@TheChapsGuide Good it wasn't Quorum you opted for. HRH wouldn't like the strong statement and might have misinterpretated it.
hi 2 week ago i picked up a morning suit for £30
yes ascot is coming and they need to get rid of out stock my mate lee was in the suit hire game in the past
and he know what size it was
i wear a morning suit alot just for fun as it did not cost alot you know there are places you can wear and dress up
there's place's that hold gig's you have to wear tails and hats ascot comes soon
mate said hire cost of a morning suit is about £150 uk for 8 days hire
in some hire place's the shop worker wear morning suits all day
🎩 thanks now I know I personally believe you should be in gentle man club and a smart suit would be Appropriate but good luck to sir 🥾🧐
A Cartier Tank or a JLC Reverso would match perfectly with the attire, don't you agree?
The Reverso would indeed be the perfect choice I believe.
Congratulations on your MBE (yes I googled). Wearing a waistcoat would also be a good opportunity to get out your pocket-watch and chain.
Unfortunatly rolex doesn't make pocket watches...
either you are missing a button or you have buttoned it wrong
Pianists wear it
Your missing a button Ash,
I feel like the reason people have the double breasted waistcoat in a lighter colour is so you honestly don’t look like a butler most people already associate it with being funeral wear and depressing because you tend to see it worn by funeral directors so wearing the lighter colour waistcoat in a sense is showing people you’re not going to a funeral and you’re honestly just dressing well in my opinion the lighter coloured waistcoat is necessary for those reasons
yes you are very right about ebay i will say alot are now look for next years morning suits
for ascot danger 100% wool in the winter i wear one as day wear to keep me hot
i got the money back very fast i can tell you with the cost of living
i worked with a man in my day job he was in the hire suit game and had you wear a morning suit
all day as a ad for ascot week wee got to order the suits for ascot week
there is big money in the hire suit game
i don't like a have suits just sitting around doing zero it dead money
there's ad there used to be on tv the fast food on the day after the party
if i wear a morning suit i say it's a work uniform go a head wear a morning suit as day wear
they get used to you over time
not in the summer time 16c and over just get to hot to wear one your body get's used
to the fill of a suit over time i started wearing one a bit at a time
till i was used to it
note wearing white tie like the go conpair man takes alot of bull to do this i can say
after 4pm morning suit in the morning white in the evening there is on
man i hove you never out dress ever i have seen this man he's all ways getting stopped
for pic's
ha ha you know you could say i am one or say this is work wear as up the road there's i as alot of black cars
in going all the time when wearing morning suit they think i work there or am i going to the races just up ascot