The BEST WAY to Install IKEA Suspension Rail (PRO Tips)
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- čas přidán 19. 06. 2024
- 🔩 Master the Art of IKEA Suspension Rail Installation with PRO Tips! 🔩
Elevate your cabinet installation game with my expert guidance on installing the IKEA Suspension Rail.
In this video, I'll reveal pro-level techniques, including a clever method to "stretch" an 84-inch-long suspension rail, even if it's 1 to 14 inches too short to cover the full stretch.
Say goodbye to installation hassles and ensure your cabinets are securely and stylishly hung.
🔧 Key Points:
- 00:00 Introduction
- 00:42 We don't do this
- 01:16 Do this instead
- 01:41 Two Simple Rules
- 02:03 An example
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🔗 Elevate your cabinet installation skills with our PRO tips for IKEA Suspension Rail installation! - Jak na to + styl
I planned on buying your exact stud finder anyway, but made sure to do it through your Amazon link so you get the commission. Thank you for your videos!
Thanks, Aaron. Highly appreciated ❤
Makes good sense.
Thanks.
Doing our IKEA kitchen install at the moment. So far we've been lucky that the rail ends have gone into mortar. Being in the UK, our kitchen walls are dot and dab plasterboard, so no studwork like you're explaining here. We're using Corefix plasterboard fixings, which have a metal collar insert to support the gap between the screw, plug, platerboard and masonry. Issues so far...
- Mortar being right on the line we're fixing the rail, deflecting the drill bit. Solution: Try a different hole (we have 3 in a row untill one securely took, and add another fixing if the spacing is over 300mm)
- Corefix 120 holes are just deep enough to punch through the back of a brick in the centre of our Victorian party wall. Although it's not a cavity wall, there's no mortar between the two layers. Solution: Use Corefix 100, which will only need ~75mm hole. Better to have a solid purchase in a shallower hole!
Thank you for your comment, which others definitely can benefit from.
I rarely come across anything but stud walls and the occasional concrete, so I don't have much to offer in regards to walls like yours, which is why I don't make a video on those things. Trying to pass on my own experience.
Good luck with the install. I bet it's a lot of fun 😊
@@kitchensbyrannes Thanks Rannes! Thankfully our friend is helping and she's installed 2-3 IKEA kitchens before. Your videos and her experience will make this a doddle, I'm sure!
Thank you!
You're welcome.
Thanks for another brilliant video. Question: What type of screws do you use to attach the rails to the wall? I have standard 2x4 wood studs and 1/2-inch sheetrock. I think I bought too big screws. I thought the mounting screws were included in the package,... silly me!
I use these.
WoodPro Fasteners ST14X212B 1/4-Inch by 2-1/2-Inch Length Round Washer Head Exterior Wood Screws, 250-Pack a.co/d/4d9S4aq #ad
When adding a dishwasher at the end of a row of cabinets do you need a support rail clear to the end or just to the last cabinet? What do you do to support the side panel and the countertop?
Thank you for reminding me I must do a video on this topic soon 🙂
You don't need to let the suspension rail go all the way. I sometimes do, but sometimes I don't, depending on the situation. If it saves me a cut, I let it run to wherever it ends within the dishwasher opening. The panel I use is 26x36", but I am not sure it is available everywhere. I cut it to fit at the back and top (never at the floor), and then I secure it to the wall with some 90° brackets. I don't secure it to the floor often, as a bracket there will make getting the dishwasher in and out more difficult. To ensure that the countertop people get their measurements right, I cut a 24" strip from scrap and use some masking tape to hold it in place from the adjacent cabinet to the panel.
If your floor isn't horizontal and falling into the room, you must add some "made to fit" shims under it at the front. I know this is the exact argument some use to justify scribing the panel at the floor, but I don't like the idea of a cut at the floor as moisture eventually penetrates even the best caulking.
@@kitchensbyrannes
If the end panel does not reach the floor, then how is the countertop supported? Do you put a shim under the end panel or a block of wood?? By the way I have already installed luxury vinyl plank flooring in the whole kitchen.
The panel will for sure reach the floor somewhere so you'll just have to squeeze in a shim where the gap is. Naturally it must be a solid shim so it can hold the counters and it must be "cut to fit" so it doesn't stick out.
Totally logical but would probably not have thought of doing it this way
Thanks. Sometimes the easiest solution is the best as well.
I understand the points you are making here. In my instance where the wall cabinets "have to be" - because my "boss" says so 🙂 - there is no stud on one side. I was wondering how would you approach this situation?
It depends on if the wall cabinet in question is a single or tied in to one or more other cabinets.
Single, not so good, but if it's connected to an adjacent cabinet, it might be okay.
@@kitchensbyrannes Thank you for your fast response. Indeed it is connected to one other wall cabinet.
I'm sure it'll be fine then, but no guarantees 👍
@@kitchensbyrannes Thank you !
You're welcome 👍
What bolts did you use?
For hanging the rails?
I use these.
WoodPro Fasteners ST14X212B 1/4-Inch by 2-1/2-Inch Length Round Washer Head Exterior Wood Screws, 250-Pack a.co/d/4d9S4aq #ad
Thank you for the reply rannes.
I'm installing this rail over the weekend and will be drilling into brick.
What bolts would you recommend?
@@t-rexwithalollipop1226 Ah.... different story.
kitchensbyrannes.com/screws-for-ikea-suspension-rails/