Ford A/C Quick Tips #4: Poor A/C Performance Upon Acceleration
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- čas přidán 18. 06. 2016
- In this video we go over a common enough concern you may experience as your vehicle ages.
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Both my 2004 expeditions with manual climate controls were blowing out the defrost no matter what setting the blower was on. They had cracked and dry rotted vacuum lines where they tee off between the battery and the engine. When I inspected them, they actually disintegrated in my hand. $4 worth of vacuum hose and it was fixed.
This happened on both my last 2 E350's. 2004 and 2014 Going up hill dash vents cut off. Crest the hill it comes back on. Same on hard acceleration. Engine load related problem. After much research on the 2004, I discovered that it might be a vacuum canister check valve. It's located under the battery box and you'd have to take most of the AC components out to get to it. Someone post online a very elegant fix. Cut 3 slits in the passenger side inner wheel well above the coil spring to make an access door. When I pried the door open, right behind it was the check valve. It's connected with a short rubber hose to the vacuum canister and the hose had deteriorated and expanded to the point where it disconnected from the check valve. Bought some 3/16 hose and reconnected. Problem fixed. Bent the sheet metal door back close, caulked and covered with some sheet metal. Fixed in about an hour for less than a buck. Fast forward 6 years and same problem with the 2014. I was a few inches off with my first door(bad memory?) and cut a second one. Same hose deterioration but this time disconnected from vacuum canister side. Both vehicles had 80 to 100 k on clock and about 6 to 8 years old. I'm guessing road or engine heat deteriorated the rubber.
Wow I’m having the same symptoms on my 04 e250… thanks for being so specific.
Line going to the heater control valves was unplugged on my 04 expedition. Thank you for you help!
Its starting to do that on my Crown Vic. I would get nice ice cold a/c at idle, park but when accelerating on the freeway, it gets less cold, like around the 60-65 degree Fahrenheit on a 90 degree Fahrenheit below 70% RH.
DUDE TY TY TY!! I had a broke vac line on the door that closes off the heat!! Works perfectly now!!!
Great video. Would enjoy seeing a video on how you started and got into the mobile diagnostics field. Thank always
Thank you so much for ur time sir... good information im an ac tech in Chile 👍👍👍 & ur videos helped me a lot
Man thank you! I kept telling everyone my AC keeps cutting even when you are gently accelerating. “No it’s normal”. Sure enough the hose was eaten by something. This happened to my windshield sprayer hose too, I fixed 2yrs ago..
Hopefully this fixes my AC saga
Very knowledgeable stuff very helpful
Really good info! Never even about the reservoir location and to be honest I most likely wouldn't have thought to check the connections under the hood. Really good video - Thanks Bud.
Hi, great content, please keep it up. You have saved me heaps on going to mechanics for basic repairs. Do you have any video on changing our the aircon vaccum damper, under the driver side. Mine seems to be stuck in the panel position and very hard to push it into the vent position. I did a check on all the vaccum lines and replaced two that were cracked. Thanks.
Excellent information thank you I really appreciate all your Ford videos they’re such a pain in the ass to work on and sometimes the stupid little thing that’s causing major problems can you expand upon this video with a little information about the Econoline specifically I have an E4 50 super duty and I’m having some vacuuming acceleration AC problems if you will get used to have a little vacuum ball container in the engine compartment it’s no longer there didn’t know if that was necessary or not thanks
Another great video.
Great video
Thank you once again for the video ...I am now having this problem now . 04 expedition... I think is time for something newer. 😎
Great information...
Thank you so much!
Went through that on my '03 last year. Accumulator was fine, as were all the hard lines, but just about every soft nipple from the accumulator to the manifold was dry rotted. Replaced them all and got all my vacuum back.
swp466 where do you get the nipples? because I have the same problem
A bloody legend!
Good info in the video. I have my '16 F150 5.0L at the dealer right now. The right side catalytic converter is making a slight chirping sound at idle. Its strange to me, almost sounds like a belt chirp. All heat shields are tight. I have never seen an issue like this, have you? .
Just found a broken vacuum line....the air was blowing super hot. Found a diaphragm on the heater hose where the line was broken. As soon as I fixed that the air cooled. I knew the compressor was working and I did add coolant since it was low. Guess the heater line was competing with the ac. Saved me a bunch. I never would have thought such a small vacuum line would cause this. On a side note I just had my tires done at a tire center and the next day this hapoened. I suspect this could have been a ploy to get me back for an expensive repair or maybe a coincidence....never had am issue before this.
The E-vans reservoir is a common problem and they're totally buried at the bottom of the evap case and you can't service it without removing the case. I bypassed mine and plumbed in a replacement under the dash.
i had a 96 crown vic police interceptor that the a/c would cut off at full throttle to give more engine power.. thats how it was designed.
Please put up a video explaining how the vacuum hoses work. Thanks!
Great video!!! I have a 2003 grand Marquis, when the car is parked with the a/c on is fine but when I start driving and press de gas the compressor kick off, Everytime I press de gas pedal kick off at any speed, but if is parking is ok, any idea? Thanks!!
love all your videos I am having a problem with a 2013 F-250 the freon is fine but the clutch wants to cycle a lot anything I should look for cycling switch sensor if so is there any way to test it it has 3 wires going into the low pressure switch that's on the dryer line any help will be greatly appreciated
I have a 05 Escape 3.0L that the AC works fine in while the car is idling and in town, once I get on the freeway it blows hot. This is after replacing the compressor, accumulator, condenser due to the compressor eating itself. We also flushed the lines and evaporator, replace the orifice tube. Pressure on the low side reads around 50 at 95-100 outside temp, the high side never gets above 190. The compressor has oil and had 30oz of 134 put in initially, was bumped another 2oz for a total of 32oz as that is the listed max for it. Never could get the high side pressure any higher. Replaced the vacuum lines under the hood after watching this video, plus they were dry cracked, checked under the dash, couldn't find any leaks. I have been suggested to replace the clutch cycle switch, the pressure cut off switch, and evaporator temp sensor (which I don't down where it would be). Was wondering what you would suggest @FordTechMakuloo
Thanks a ton...my air was switching to defroster on acceleration-found a disconnected vacuum hose to the left and below the throttle body (if looking from front). Plugged that sucker back in and all was well again. 2004 V8 Eddie Bauer.
I liked your video, it was helpful, and kinda general, some of the navigators have metal frame dash that makes it really hard to work around and check for hoses and replace the blend actuator, but I did do it without taking the dash out,,,definitely a real tough project.
1993-1997 Ford Probe have something like this. Even though it's an identical engine to the Mazda 626/MX-6... Ford decided to add vacuum to HVAC where as their Mazda counterparts do not.
Great video! I have a problem with my 2018 Ford Transit 350 XLT with ecoboost. I just bought the van a couple weeks ago with 24k miles on it, and I discovered that the AC gets very weak (significantly less cold air) as the outside temperature reaches 80+ degrees or once the engine gets warm, driving it for a while or switching to MAX AC does not improves the air temperature, I took it to the stealership and they say that the diagnostics did not find any problems with the system, it is charged and the compressor is working normally, but obviously there is problem with the AC, I don't know what to do now, the car is still under factory warranty but they won't fix what they can't find with their diagnostics tool. I have my family sweating in the car when we drive in the middle of the day. Could you please help me with any hint or advise? What should I tell the service advisor to look for when they run the diagnostics?? Thank you so much in advance.
Hi, I was having problems with ac on my 2003 Ford Expedition defaulting to defrost so I changed out the ac actuator following the method in your video because it seemed like it was just getting stuck in defrost mode. Now, the problem is worse. It's blowing hot air on the passenger side, even when the temp is set on 60 and has a very weak flow of cold air on the drivers side. The rear ac vents work just fine. I'm stuck on what to do next.
If one of those vacuum hoses are loose, will it cause the fan to keep turning on and off (dropping and raising pressure on the low AC pressure port)?
Both fans work when the ac is off but when the Ac turns on, one fan will shut on and off about every 30 seconds or so.
The Compressor stays on the whole time and the air is cool to cold but not real cold.
FordTechMakuloco
Thanks for posting. I have a 2006 Expedition (Eddie Bauer) AC is not cooling, now the AC is defaulting to the defrost. If I increase the temp setting the airflow will temporarily divert to the AC vents. I was checking the vacuum as suggested and found that vacuum line connected to the heater control valve appears to be broken at the far end. Where should it be connected? Please advise. Thanks.
Good video for finding the basic vacuum leaks. If your truck is a Ford 4WD, check the vacuum activation lines coming from the wheel vacuum coupling coming from the engine compartment, heading into the 4WD locking hubs, this is a very common vacuum leak area in the 4WD Ford trucks with the vacuum actuated hubs. (it ties in right above the front wheels) 9 out of 10 times, I have found that it's the actual vacuum lines that are either cracked in the vacuum lines, the coupling is split or completely broken off/missing. Some hubs will leak at the hub seals as well.
Excellent video! I have a 2013 F-150 raptor 6.2L and I'm getting warm air when I go high rpm, gas level is ok, condenser, compressor and expansion valve seem to be ok. I really don't know if I have those vacuum lines on my system, any thoughts on that? Any help would be really appreciated! Thanks in advance!
So glad to find your channel. I have been having issues with my 04 F150 A.C. It doesn't have a heater control valve. Was wondering if I could just cut the inlet heater hose and install a manual ball valve to stop the flow to the core?
I have a 2007 Expedition is there a self diagnostic for the EATC for these only see info on the older units. Thanks
I have a 1999 Ford Ranger and when turning on the a/c to max it blows the same as a/c on high and then when giving throttle when driving a/c on max the air stops blowing and I here a weird air noise under the hood ?
Palm trees in Illinois! I then see the tag on the battery for west Phoenix, that seems more like it.
where does that vacuum line go to once in goes into the firewall, im looking all over under the passenger seat and cant find it. any tips. thanks
I actually had this exact issue you described in the video and mine was a hole in the check valve it's the only under hood one I could find on my 1997 f150
Nice find!
+FordTechMakuloco got a question what would cause power loss under acceleration with the ac on but full power with it off my old 1992 Ranger killed the ac under wide open throttle but this truck doesn't seem to any ideas?
I got a ford expedition 2002 and my air seems to get really cold when turning I believe right then after its just normal cold/cool. And ideas?
I doubt you will see this but I just bought a 2006 f250 6.0 fx4. And the AC blows cold and it seems to not blow as hard as it needs but that's besides the point. It will run nice and cold then all if a sudden Luke warm or hot. Normally I just turn it off and try again later. BTW it does this like 5-10 mins after starting the truck up. Today I just let it run and it came back in like 5 mins
Let it run while I kept driving. It does it while I'm driving. I wanna say it's when I take off (not flooring it just going normal) but I'm not exactly sure had it 1 day
I have a question for you. I have a 01 f250 with a 5.4L and I seem to loose vacuum when going up hill. It doesn't matter if the heat or A/C is on, when going up hill it goes to defrost but as soon as I level out or going down hill everything works perfectly fine. Any ideas what would cause that. I look to see if there were any TSB's but I couldn't find any. And my auto 4x4 always works fine and I know the vacuum lines are connected to the knuckle and they been replaced before as well. But still no luck 👎🤔
On my 99 F250 7.3 Liter the ac would work at first and then after driving will blow hot until I accelerate hard enough to make the turbo boost and then the A/C will blow cold for a few minutes and then I have to accelerate hard again to make it work. Any Ideas?
Question. What unit were you with in the Marines?
2004 Expo with cold air blowing on level highway speeds however when accelerating or pulling a slight hill, it stops blowing. Don't see any disconnected hoses under hood. You mention vacuum reservoir next to battery in your vid. How do you diagnose it?
My 2014 f350 started doing this after an front end impact. It start fine when I turn the truck on but upon hard excellaration the AC stops cooling and it won't start cooling again until u turn the motor off and on again. Could this be related to the same thing you're talking here?
I'm hoping you won't mind helping me figure out my trucks problem. I have a 2015 f350 6.7 power stroke.
The problem I had at first was the A/C would not work, I noticed that the compressor would short cycle. I originally thought it was low on refrigerant and attempted to put some in, with the basic can and guage from Walmart. It refused to accept any refrigerant. I took it to an A/C repair shop, in which they said all the components were working fine and the refrigerant level was good. However, there was a plastic air diverter missing from below the condenser coil. I purchased one at the local ford dealership and sure enough the compressor quite short cycling and I started getting cool air.
However, it still doesn't perform as it should. It only starts showing a noticeable cooling after I start driving for a while. If I drive a long distance then eventually it will start blowing cold air, and feel like it should. At first I thought it might have 2 electric fans and 1 wasn't coming on, but this truck has a belt driven clutch fan. So that got ruled out. I also thought maybe there was a cabin air filter clogged, but that's not equipped on this truck. I'm really at a loss, the condenser coil is clean, so it's not clogged. Also it doesn't freeze over. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
ford does wayyyy too much with engine vacuum... They should be way past his by now
The plus side is it's cheap and to fix it the parts themselves are cheap, it's just a pain in the fuckin ass to find leaks
My Ford Flex 2014 turn on and off the compressor, I already put a jumper in the A/C clutch and the compressor remains on but still have the problem. Any suggestion?
I have a 2012 eb and the cooling fan on the radiator is really loud , like it on high all the time when it does kick on. is this normal? sounds like a just is taking of when it comes on.
Hi I have a 2002 Ford Explorer the a/c blows cold from the drivers 2 vents and warm on passenger sides a/c pressure is good on gauge until I turn on the back a/c control and the pressure rises into the yellow on a/c gauge. The gauge is one those you get when you buy a can of 134-A freon any clues what problem is
I have a 2009 Crown victoria. Would this apply? The low side pressure is to high but the clutch does come on but turns off after a few seconds.
I have a 2004 Lincoln town car ultimate. I just replaced my a/c compressor, the accumulator and the orifice tube. The air blows ice cold while parked but it starts to warm up the faster I drive. What could the problem be?
Would this still be the case if I only get cool air as I accelerate? When I sit idle I lose cool air
I have same problem with 2013 Renault fluence, while acceleration the ac stop working and make hising sound from the expansion valve and works fine on idle and something compressor take too much load on startup
Hi
I cant find the vacuum hose for hvac system in my 2004 ford ranger
Can you help?
I've been having this issue with my work vehicle. Its a late 90's early 2000's Ford E-250 cargo van. The A/C doesn't really change temperature when I accelerate. It simply turns to defrost whenever I accelerate too much. It would go back to normal A/C when I would ease off on the gas. I say "would", because now the A/C is currently stuck in that defrost mode regardless of acceleration or what mode I have the A/C turned to. I was hoping to find some easy way to at least get the A/C back to "almost" fixed. I live in Texas and it is getting real real damn hot. I need that A/C running again.
I live in Austin, yes it's miserably hot, & A/C issues is not an option..
I always race home..
hey got a 05 250 5.4 when i step on the gas its switches ac to the defroster vents when i let off the gas it switches back to dash vents any ideas
I have 03 expedition it’s not getting warm and. Have checked all actuators only rear ones bad. Yet I went under good and noticed vac line from heater control valve missing can’t seem to find it. Where does it go and would that effect my truck getting hot
I've been chasing this problem for a few months now on my ranger. Did a smoke test and found no leaks under the hood. Not excited about digging under the dash.
I prefer a vacuum hand pump and gauge to check for leak down before going under the dash.
i have a 2008 ford 150 4.2 an my truck is over heating when it get put on an i changed me fan cluch an it still over heating why
Some great tips and pointers to look for as cars get older. However, I'm curious as to what you found was the culprit on this particular vehicle.
+JRobert111111 that vacuum line I yanked off on the heater control valve was the culprit. That one line being off and a vacuum leak source is all it takes.
Thank you for letting me know; and thank you for all of your hard work and for your generous sharing of your wealth of knowledge here on YT for us all!
I have a 2010 F-150 that I think needs a compressor clutch (not engaging) do you have a video of how to get in there? It looks like tight work area under there
polarjee
p04
I have a 2006 lariat and I have the same issue but I cant find and defrost valve or vacuum resevoir, i think in 2006 ford change a little bit if you have a chance can you reply where to check in my 2006 lariat
I have a Ford f-150 2001 ac want work but the clutch is working also when I hook up a hose from a refrigerate can with the engine running and ac control on high the guage runs in the danger zone
I have a 2008 Dodge 2500 Diesel 4x4. My a/c is ice cold while idling but it gets warmer at highway speed. What do you think is my problem?
Could this also be cause by any vacuum leak or just the ones you mentioned?
I have a issue where the compressor turn on when I first start the car buy it goes out after a minute or 2. I got a code for a faulty ac compressor circuit but I cannot find. Changed fuses, relays and inspected the wires and cleaned them but nothing.
Would this issue absolutely every time make your vents switch to defrost or could this still cause warm air coming from vents without switching to defrost. Having same symptoms on my 4.6 work truck. Ice cold at idle, high rpms the vents just blow warm.
Any help on what that reservoir box is connected to?i noticed mine is not plugged to anything it just has a small piece of tube that’s already cracked connected to it but it goes nowhere,any help is appreciated 🙏🏽it’s on a 2006 expedition
Sorry for the misplacement, but i have a quick question,
I had a rear clicking noise in the rear side of my 11" XLT Expedition, I figured that it is coming from the upper actuator,
part no. 1L2H-19E616-bb , What is the equivalent Motorcraft part No. ? I cant find it in fordparts.com
I’ve got the opposite. AC is working fine, until I stop at bottom of exit ramp. Then gets hot and I need to do the AC reset. Any thoughts would be great. Oh, was just told compressor is working fine.
what would cause a 4.6 Explorer to overheat while running the AC on high but the minute I turn off the AC the temperature gauge returns to normal.
Restriction in the high side of the a/c system.
I have a 2010 escape and this happens to me sometimes when I'm driving and idling. It happens on extremely hot days the most. As I jolt the car either by stopping or driving from a stop it will come back on for a few. Maybe my relay on the dryer is shrinking just enough on 100° days to be faulty? Pls help!!
Did you ever find an answer?
Would this also apply to the 2005 ford focus?
would this apply to powerstroke 6.0 trucks? or does the vacuum come from another source on diesel-powered trucks
This also applies to the superduty trucks of that era yes but the vacuum leak usually comes from the 4x4 solenoid on the fender causing the system to default to defrost.
Hi had a question I have a 2005 ford expedition and I been noticing that in some occasion when I'm driving the car kind of loses power, I try to pump slowly the gas put is still doesn't budge and then all of a sedan it goes fast. I have drove the car with out AC thinking it could be that but still no luck and before I take it to a shop I would like to get your opinion on what it could possibly be thank you.
I get that as well on my '03. Haven't figured it out yet either, so I'll be watching for a response. I've changed my fan clutch because it sounded like it was engaged when it maybe shouldn't have been, but that wasn't it either.
thanks for replying we changed the gas filter, air filter, an it still does the same thing going to change spark plugs may be that will help keep in touch if you happen to find what it may be thanks again.
swp466 thanks for replying we changed the gas filter, air filter, an it still does the same thing going to change spark plugs may be that will help keep in touch if you happen to find what it may be thanks again
Ilda Munoz mine was doing this exact same thing seemed to lose power and it turned out compression was coming thru cylinder 2 I could hear a faint ticking turned out it shot the spark plug out and I had to get it retaped and now its perfect no loss of power.
I have an 04 Eddie Bauer and mine would do that also. Change spark plugs and coil pack boots or coil packs also if needed. If there is fluid on your spark plug boots when/if you replace them, then you have a bad valve cover gasket.
I have a 2006 F150. My a/c only works if I accelerate or at high rpms. if im at a stop for to long it stops working. what could that be?
I have a 06 Ford f150 king ranch 5.4 litre my a/c feels warm at idle even with the inside recirculate on. gets a little cooler while steadily driving around 40mph but gets real cold at high speeds on interstate around 75mph what can I do to get cold air while idling. please?
I have the same problem
This has to do with compressor speed and adequate airflow through the front condenser ( radiator area )
Full of bugs and dirty
Electric fans not running
My 2008 expedition on idle blows hot air and as soon i apply acceleration it stars blowing cold are. When im driving down the road work fine and when i stop it start again with the hot air. Ill ready took it to three different auto shops and they can figure it out, just being waiting money.
Is there a hvac on the 2014 Ford explorer
+FordTechMaculoco first of all, thank you for the videos. 2nd, what is your take on oil catch cans? Good idea or waste of time? Have you seen any instances of voided warranties because of an aftermarket catch can? It would be cool too see a video coming from an actual Ford tech's point of view. Sorry if you've already talked about it.
This video is about a/c...lol
2008 Ford f150 air conditioner turns on when car is turned off, and lights flickering on dashboard
Hi 👋🏻 brother
I got 2013 f150 5.0
I got problem with ac blowing air , it is suddenly stopped and in few minutes start blowing up again
And if i pot it on the high blowing it doesn’t work, it just works on level 1,2 and 3 and when i accelerate it stopped and get back working again .
Can please tell me what is wrong with it
my a/c blows cool and when im doing 60mph and slow down it blows out hot air and also if i stop in traffic hot air. When i turn it off for 3 to 5 minutes and back on its cool again.
Same , did you figure it out ?
That's a bad fan. You have two fans out front. One of them is for your HVAC system. One of them is for your engine cooling. The one for your HVAC system is likely bad or possibly both of them
That line you took off. Mine is missing. Can you make a video of where that line leads to. Like where you pulled it off to down where it goes. What is that part you unplugged it from?
If it’s the vacuum line he was talking about at the end, it goes into the firewall to the left bottom corner of the computer when you are looking at the engine from the front view
Question: 2006 F150 5.4L, A/C works while driving. When stopped, does not keep cool. Refrigerant charge is okay. Please advise. Thanks
What about diesels? Same problem on f550
I have a 05 FIVEHUNDRED and it does the opposite it gets cold when I accelerate and blows hot at idle
My ford edge too
This is happening in my 89 Lincoln Town Car.
I've changed the check valve, vacuum reservoir, temp servo, check the vacuum hoses behind the dash, put in a new heater control valve, A/C still stops upon acceleration.
When I stop accelerating, it comes on again, & it's just cool, not cold.
Did I overlook a repair?
Thanks in advance
is this an issue on focus 2007
My 2004 4.6 f150 (new model) is having a.c. issues. When I start it up, everything is fine. 15-20 minutes later, it stops blowing cold air. I fix this very temporarily by "flooring" it and accelerating for a few seconds with thr pedal all the way down. The a.c. starts working again for a brief moment. Any ideas?
Any luck with fixing this. My 05 f150 ac seems to stop blow cold when I'm not moving, like in a drive through line. Or just idling.
First - Have not seen you posting much of late
+jake legg I have been very busy with the work load in the shop but I have posted about 4 videos in the last week or so not bad.
FordTechMakuloco first off your videos are very informative. I have a 07 explorer and I have an issue that I'm getting the high fan revs when the engine gets to normal temp. It does this pretty much every type I drive it. I read that it was the fam clutch sticking. I had the radiator and thermostat replaced and also the fan clutch. Have you heard of this issue if so can you give me some insight on what the issue may be? Thanks
FordTechMakuloco 2004 Ford Explorer one vent in the middle of dash blows really cold. The vent next to it blows warm air. Any ideas what the problem might be? Thank you
Mine is backwards. Cold while driving. Warm at idle
Hey I have a question which is not about ac but about brake. I'm a truck driver recently n I like the air brake. Now is that something I can convert into my 03 expedition?
Short answer: absolutely not.
My 2005 6.0 AC working Great Ice cold : But the engine fan will run a lot when i have AC on > outside temperature in Florida around 95
coolant EOT and FWT are normal ?? please Help !
I have fixed a hundred things in my 2003 Ford mustang gt. I am honestly ready to run it in a river. Your videos are great but the problem I am having with my ac is that all the settings work. It blows out cool but not blowing hard enough. Could anyone tell me what the problem is.
Blower motor
anytime I put on my a/c of my ford 2002 the engine slows down and d engine starts vibrating.Dont have a choice but to switch it off and d car moves faster
Your compressor is probably freezing up