Nice tutorial, Mike! The way that works best for me to highlight the mortar lines in brickwork is to make a very thin wash of light gray paint, basically to where it's little more than colored water. I brush that onto the brickwork and let it dry, then lightly rub the face of the bricks with a paper towel or soft cloth. It works well for me, and the wash that doesn't come off the bricks just adds that efflorescence that brickwork naturally gets as it ages. As you said, there are a variety of ways to do things and finding a technique that works is what matters. Bright pink with blue spots? Uh.... maybe not.
Am enjoying all your videos. I have been working on a small 4ft x 2ft shunting layout in OO (it used to be n gauge but just prefer OO). I enjoy reading the various magazines but the layouts always look far too professional for my skills. It is great to hear the message ‘do what you want- it’s your layout’. 👍
Thanks for watching and commenting. I reckon the perfect media layouts put off more people than they encourage, you think I cant do that rather than I can give it a go. The hobby should be about being happy with what you do and having fun not counting rivets!
So it seems that Poundland acrylics are the way to go. Our Poundland is still open so I'll nip along and have a look. Many thanks for that pointer, and for the interesting information on dry brushing techniques etc. I like the idea of practising on non visible areas!
Loving this series of 'how to do videos'. Talking of Acrylic paint B&M are doing 3 tubes of 200ml paint for £5 and a complete set of Acrylic paints with a set of 20 little tubes of 12ml for £4.99.I paint loads of stuff now with these now and paint tester pots from Wilkos are great to.Stay safe Mike and Doug.
great video that going to help me out a fare bit. One I`d like to point out is the back of the station building where you used it as a test area , That looks fantastic as a derelict building ! to me that would really look the part on a lay out as an abandoned station. Without knowing you have created a look that I really like
I use acrylic paints from Walmart, 2 fluid ounces (59ml) for 50 cents.. There is a larger size container for $1; don’t remember the volume. I buy that size for the colors that I use the most (black, white, brown, tans, greens ). Since I model N scale I don’t need a lot of paint for any given project.
nice tips especially regarding the types of paint you use. I forgot to mention on the last video but sorry I missed you live stream. It was a slightly inconvenient time which is possibly the only reason I was able to see the one before it as it started earlier in the day but at least I saw it on the re-run, and then went to measure an old toilet seat in my dads shed!
Nice! It just so happens that im painting a scratch built house! If you're interested about how im making it then this is what im doing: (im doing a terrace house and its a little more simple of a design) Cut out the frame of the house on a cereal box, then you put clay over it (a thin layer but with a little bit of thickness) then you make a brick affect. For the brick affect i use a long thin piece of anything like the side of the tape from the tape measure, a thin guitar string, or a craft knife but keep in mind that the craft knife could result in a wonky line! This might not be that clear and it would probably be easier to explain in a video so i might do a tutorial on my train channel
Quite right on the acrylic paints. I use appropriate rattle can undercoats sparingly on stuff and it seems to cut down on the number of coats of acrylic required. I hardly ever use enamels now, even though I do have them.
I remembered I had the booking hall kit and just started building it after watching your video. I had forgotten what a great little kit it is (built one before years ago). Cheers for the inspiration.
i only use acrylic paints , cheap and do the job perfectly... loving this series... i've been modeling for a while but still pick up bits n pieces from you guys... cheers Neil Dunkirk
I have been looking forward to your next video. i am building plastic kits at the moment and use The Works acrylic paints which are cheap but very good. I always give the plastic a god wash with warm soap water to make sure the paint adheres well. I don`t have steady hands like toy so acrylics are ideal if it all goes wrong. Some really good tips today, thank you.
As always Mike you always deliver! Great tutorial, lots of useful tips. I don’t know what your job is but you would make a “Top Teacher”. Thanks again.👍
kids poster paints are another cheap effective paint for things like rock faces and such things as you can pick up large tubs for £1 a tub.buy many different colours mix them and experiment.
Awesome video a always guys! Really good ideas and very simply put so that anyone can follow along! I have found some cheap fabric acrylic paint at the Dollar Tree (everything is $1 sorta like your Pound Land) and they work perfectly. They are not as thick as regular acrylic but they are much more malleable and forgiving. I dipped my toes into building a coach kit from a garage sale I had gotten and it has come out well so far. Thank you for showing the next step and I look forward to the rest of the series videos. Lovely work as always guys!
Another great video and thanks for the mention! Spent most of yesterday working outside in the sunshine laying the track. A couple of days ago I stuck down the ballast mat but as it dried it went blotchy so I've painted over it with some slate grey emulsion. As I have a little bit more space (my baseboard is 6ftx1ft) I have put in a fourth point on the right of the passing loop to give an extra siding and the fiddle yard siding is on the main baseboard rather than being separate. I experimented with adding yet another point to give an extra siding in the fiddle yard but it didn't work in the available space. A sector plate would work I think but I have no idea how to build one - maybe a Buget Model Railways project in the future? My younger grandson has nearly finished the platform and the older one is working on the station building. We are using artist's acrylics as I have loads of them. I particularly like the dry brush effect to bring out the detail particularly in the platform surface and the station roof so we'll be having a go at that. We are all having great fun and looking forward to the next video.
Thin Your Paints. Paint thinner isn't too expensive and isn't strictly needed as you can use water. It makes paint go a whole lot further and look a lot better. This is of course just my opinion, but I would always recommend it.
The thinner it is the more coats you need and the poorer the finish with water based acrylics not sure of the advantages? Thinners was more something you used with older enamel paints
The only problem with using artists acrylics on plastic model kits is that they tend to leave clear brushstrokes making it hard to get a smooth finish, you if you shop around you can pick up Humbrol acrylics and enamels as well as Tamyia acrylics for about a pound a pot and when thinned with water go a long way and leave that much better finish. Just my experiences from using both types.
You did get better ones than I had... mine were too watery to be really useable on plastic, and had not fine enough pigment to be usable as a starter for washes. But it did wonders on the tile adhesive which I used for reinforcing the rock faces of my Christmas village layout
Budget Model Railways it’s just a case of shopping around to be honest and looking in the right places, usually train fairs have people that sell them brand new for around the pound a pot mark as this is where I tend to get mine from.
For an easier method of the brick affect varnish the previous layer and use a very thin paint for the mortar texture which you can remove with thinners
Really enjoyed the tutorial, thank you. Actually, managed to watch all of the videos that have been posted over the past years and they are quite addictive! Ideas, techniques, track plan suggestions, it’s all there. Love your 3D kits too. Ever thought about an app that catalogues all that info in a one click place. Could be a money spinner to help further grow BMR.
Nice tutorial, I have got some of those artist paints as well they work well for scenic stuff. Do you ever find the white model paints seem to go bitty and clog up a lot even when new, I have had many go like this but other colours have been fine to the end. I'm curious to know whether I'm the only one to have the problem.
Might be a good idea to explain the difference between Acrylic and Enamel paints to the complete novice, not a criticism but weathering with enamels without thinners is a challenge .... great video by the way I can see your content attracting more people to the hobby
I've been struggling with the white paint mortar technique lately; the brick red paint underneath has been mixing into the white, even after 24+ hours drying time. I wonder if I've been thinning the white down too much and putting too much thinner on the painted walls.
I've got a layout myself, I work is DC not DCC and only have the 1 controller, how do you guys think I can best utilise the space? The layout is 2ft wide and 10ft long one way and 2ft wide and 8ft long the other in the shape of an L. Im a fan of shunting aswell as running a train end to end. My question is this though. Is there a shunting yard you guys can create and do videos on that only require 1 DC controller?
We recently made a video on just that, how to wire a shunting layout. If you put power in at both ends and use insulating points you will only need one controller. With that much space you could make a really good end to end layout
@@BudgetModelRailways My plan was to have multiple sidings on one side of the mainline and have sidings on the other side of the main line going off to the corner as if the train was going elsewhere and not back the way it came, I'm probably being very ambitious for a DC layout.
easier way to do the mortar, would be to "wash" using a very thinned watery paint mixed with a bit of washing up liquid, helps it find the grooves
Nice tutorial, Mike! The way that works best for me to highlight the mortar lines in brickwork is to make a very thin wash of light gray paint, basically to where it's little more than colored water. I brush that onto the brickwork and let it dry, then lightly rub the face of the bricks with a paper towel or soft cloth. It works well for me, and the wash that doesn't come off the bricks just adds that efflorescence that brickwork naturally gets as it ages. As you said, there are a variety of ways to do things and finding a technique that works is what matters. Bright pink with blue spots? Uh.... maybe not.
Am enjoying all your videos. I have been working on a small 4ft x 2ft shunting layout in OO (it used to be n gauge but just prefer OO). I enjoy reading the various magazines but the layouts always look far too professional for my skills. It is great to hear the message ‘do what you want- it’s your layout’. 👍
Thanks for watching and commenting. I reckon the perfect media layouts put off more people than they encourage, you think I cant do that rather than I can give it a go. The hobby should be about being happy with what you do and having fun not counting rivets!
AKA rule number 1.
So it seems that Poundland acrylics are the way to go. Our Poundland is still open so I'll nip along and have a look. Many thanks for that pointer, and for the interesting information on dry brushing techniques etc. I like the idea of practising on non visible areas!
Loving this series of 'how to do videos'. Talking of Acrylic paint B&M are doing 3 tubes of 200ml paint for £5 and a complete set of Acrylic paints with a set of 20 little tubes of 12ml for £4.99.I paint loads of stuff now with these now and paint tester pots from Wilkos are great to.Stay safe Mike and Doug.
great video that going to help me out a fare bit. One I`d like to point out is the back of the station building where you used it as a test area , That looks fantastic as a derelict building ! to me that would really look the part on a lay out as an abandoned station. Without knowing you have created a look that I really like
I use acrylic paints from Walmart, 2 fluid ounces (59ml) for 50 cents.. There is a larger size container for $1; don’t remember the volume. I buy that size for the colors that I use the most (black, white, brown, tans, greens ). Since I model N scale I don’t need a lot of paint for any given project.
When you are scrubbung off the excess paint with a tissue, a drop of thinners on the tissue helps.
Thanks
nice tips especially regarding the types of paint you use. I forgot to mention on the last video but sorry I missed you live stream. It was a slightly inconvenient time which is possibly the only reason I was able to see the one before it as it started earlier in the day but at least I saw it on the re-run, and then went to measure an old toilet seat in my dads shed!
Nice! It just so happens that im painting a scratch built house! If you're interested about how im making it then this is what im doing:
(im doing a terrace house and its a little more simple of a design)
Cut out the frame of the house on a cereal box, then you put clay over it (a thin layer but with a little bit of thickness) then you make a brick affect. For the brick affect i use a long thin piece of anything like the side of the tape from the tape measure, a thin guitar string, or a craft knife but keep in mind that the craft knife could result in a wonky line! This might not be that clear and it would probably be easier to explain in a video so i might do a tutorial on my train channel
Quite right on the acrylic paints. I use appropriate rattle can undercoats sparingly on stuff and it seems to cut down on the number of coats of acrylic required. I hardly ever use enamels now, even though I do have them.
I remembered I had the booking hall kit and just started building it after watching your video. I had forgotten what a great little kit it is (built one before years ago). Cheers for the inspiration.
i only use acrylic paints , cheap and do the job perfectly... loving this series... i've been modeling for a while but still pick up bits n pieces from you guys... cheers Neil Dunkirk
Thanks for the tips!!🚂🚃🚃
I have been looking forward to your next video. i am building plastic kits at the moment and use The Works acrylic paints which are cheap but very good. I always give the plastic a god wash with warm soap water to make sure the paint adheres well. I don`t have steady hands like toy so acrylics are ideal if it all goes wrong. Some really good tips today, thank you.
Thanks, looking forward to trying cheap artists acrylics as they will be much cheaper
I was amazed at the good quality.
Thanks, its like a lot of things, not as difficult as it looks when you give it a go
As always Mike you always deliver! Great tutorial, lots of useful tips. I don’t know what your job is but you would make a “Top Teacher”. Thanks again.👍
Thanks, I was a salesman for many years and have been an instructor in the ACF for 20 years
Great video, very helpful.
kids poster paints are another cheap effective paint for things like rock faces and such things as you can pick up large tubs for £1 a tub.buy many different colours mix them and experiment.
Good call, we use them lots
I love your vids and Intercity82 got me into trains, but you got me into model layouts
Great work !🌈😷🇬🇧
Another cracking video full of help for all. Thanks for the hard work.
Thanks for watching and supporting
Awesome video a always guys! Really good ideas and very simply put so that anyone can follow along! I have found some cheap fabric acrylic paint at the Dollar Tree (everything is $1 sorta like your Pound Land) and they work perfectly. They are not as thick as regular acrylic but they are much more malleable and forgiving. I dipped my toes into building a coach kit from a garage sale I had gotten and it has come out well so far. Thank you for showing the next step and I look forward to the rest of the series videos. Lovely work as always guys!
Thanks as always for watching and commenting
Nice one Mike, thanks! Rgds, Joachim
Thanks for watching
Another great video and thanks for the mention! Spent most of yesterday working outside in the sunshine laying the track. A couple of days ago I stuck down the ballast mat but as it dried it went blotchy so I've painted over it with some slate grey emulsion.
As I have a little bit more space (my baseboard is 6ftx1ft) I have put in a fourth point on the right of the passing loop to give an extra siding and the fiddle yard siding is on the main baseboard rather than being separate. I experimented with adding yet another point to give an extra siding in the fiddle yard but it didn't work in the available space. A sector plate would work I think but I have no idea how to build one - maybe a Buget Model Railways project in the future?
My younger grandson has nearly finished the platform and the older one is working on the station building. We are using artist's acrylics as I have loads of them. I particularly like the dry brush effect to bring out the detail particularly in the platform surface and the station roof so we'll be having a go at that.
We are all having great fun and looking forward to the next video.
Sounds great, I used to have multi road fiddle yards but don't bother now , I find I only ever used one! Have fun and keep us up to date. Stay safe
Very helpful 👍
Thin
Your
Paints.
Paint thinner isn't too expensive and isn't strictly needed as you can use water. It makes paint go a whole lot further and look a lot better. This is of course just my opinion, but I would always recommend it.
The thinner it is the more coats you need and the poorer the finish with water based acrylics not sure of the advantages? Thinners was more something you used with older enamel paints
The back of you station building, where you experimented looks spot on as a disused abandoned building.
Lol
Great Video! I’ve followed you from when I got back into the hobby and always look forward to your next video 😊
Thanks glad we could help
Very useful tips.
Thanks
The only problem with using artists acrylics on plastic model kits is that they tend to leave clear brushstrokes making it hard to get a smooth finish, you if you shop around you can pick up Humbrol acrylics and enamels as well as Tamyia acrylics for about a pound a pot and when thinned with water go a long way and leave that much better finish. Just my experiences from using both types.
Would be good to which retailers have humbrol paints at £1!?
You did get better ones than I had... mine were too watery to be really useable on plastic, and had not fine enough pigment to be usable as a starter for washes. But it did wonders on the tile adhesive which I used for reinforcing the rock faces of my Christmas village layout
Budget Model Railways it’s just a case of shopping around to be honest and looking in the right places, usually train fairs have people that sell them brand new for around the pound a pot mark as this is where I tend to get mine from.
For an easier method of the brick affect varnish the previous layer and use a very thin paint for the mortar texture which you can remove with thinners
Really enjoyed the tutorial, thank you. Actually, managed to watch all of the videos that have been posted over the past years and they are quite addictive! Ideas, techniques, track plan suggestions, it’s all there. Love your 3D kits too. Ever thought about an app that catalogues all that info in a one click place. Could be a money spinner to help further grow BMR.
Thanks for watching, especially if you worked through our back catalogue, thats a lot of viewing!
Budget Model Railways...value added viewing, especially with time on my hands. Massively looking forward to the next episode.
Many thanks
Nice tutorial, I have got some of those artist paints as well they work well for scenic stuff. Do you ever find the white model paints seem to go bitty and clog up a lot even when new, I have had many go like this but other colours have been fine to the end. I'm curious to know whether I'm the only one to have the problem.
Might be a good idea to explain the difference between Acrylic and Enamel paints to the complete novice, not a criticism but weathering with enamels without thinners is a challenge .... great video by the way I can see your content attracting more people to the hobby
We make it quite clear we are using acrylics, so that should avoid any confusion
Really enjoying this series. Great effort. One question, what software do you use to make voiceover on some of the videos? Thanks
Another cracking tutorial...and despite what your target audience is, you can teach some old dogs new tricks as well!
Thanks
Combine this with the 'Altes Stellwerk' video by Sebb1zu87, and you have the ultimate guide to weathering your buildings for a friendly price
I've been struggling with the white paint mortar technique lately; the brick red paint underneath has been mixing into the white, even after 24+ hours drying time. I wonder if I've been thinning the white down too much and putting too much thinner on the painted walls.
I don't use thinners, just acrylic or poster paint, even then its a bit trial and error
@@BudgetModelRailways yeah I've been thinking of trying it again with acrylics; think you've confirmed it's worth a couple bucks to try it
Do you know an inexpensive way to do a back scene. I'm not Bob Ross and always end up with what looks like a kids painting.
Probably the cheapest is to use the Peco ones, they are only a couple of pound each. You are braver than me, even attempting to paint your own!
I've got a layout myself, I work is DC not DCC and only have the 1 controller, how do you guys think I can best utilise the space? The layout is 2ft wide and 10ft long one way and 2ft wide and 8ft long the other in the shape of an L. Im a fan of shunting aswell as running a train end to end.
My question is this though. Is there a shunting yard you guys can create and do videos on that only require 1 DC controller?
We recently made a video on just that, how to wire a shunting layout. If you put power in at both ends and use insulating points you will only need one controller. With that much space you could make a really good end to end layout
@@BudgetModelRailways My plan was to have multiple sidings on one side of the mainline and have sidings on the other side of the main line going off to the corner as if the train was going elsewhere and not back the way it came, I'm probably being very ambitious for a DC layout.
Not at all. Like I say if you power each end and use isolating points it doesn't matter how many sidings you have
First
Dang well done
Thebrightestbrick88 nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo I'm not
Did you know that in Eastbourne, There’s a Model Shop. It’s in Langney Shopping Centre and looks really good
I will have a look when ive finished staying at home, thanks
humbrol are £1.79 and they are 14ml
At the moment with no shops open you have to add postage to that as well!
and most of the time you get 30% extra for free