Nice video, some additional suggestions: The wall casting have a release angle that doesn't let the walls make good gluing contact, and, if not addressed, leaves a void in the side. You addressed this by adding putty to fill and smooth that surface. I have found that I prefer to sand that release angle so the side walls have a flat edge. As you say, the plastic sands easily, so this doesn't take long. Just be sure to keep everything square. When weathering, try to make all your weathering strokes vertical to the walls, not across. It is a small thing, but yields big results. I never paint a building wall with only one color. Instead, I use two or three varied colors and do multiple coats while everything is still wet. The larger the building, the more this adds to the affect. The idea is to blend the colors in a way that the overall building color is faded and not uniform. The same affect really stands out on the roof. Blend some colors, flat black followed by a dark gray mist works well for me. Be sure to do the over spray immediately after spraying the black so they blend together. These are great buildings and really lend themselves to kitbashing, or using multiple kits to build larger factories.
Thanks, Jimmy. As noted by another, along with the angles edges of the walls, there is brick detail on the sides of the walls. It will indicate which walls go inside the other walls: e.g., I notice that you put the side walls behind the front wall and the back wall inside the side walls. If you look closely, you will see that the building is not exactly square. However, in N scale, that may not be as noticeable as in HO scale on O scale.
Hi Jimmy, I love these DPM kits. I have built them and they are reasonably easy to get a great result. Like anything else, just take your time. In the end it’s the additional details you add that give them life. Thanks for a easy, breezy tutorial. See ya next time.
Thanks for the tips. I have a lot of kits to build for the small layout that I'm "building". I agree that the flat brush works very well on painting these small buildings. I was glad to see that you used regular modeling glue. It seemed to work well.
Additional hints: Wash the plastic parts in mild soap and allow them to dry fully before preceding. Often on these buildings the front would be painted while the other 3 sides would be a natural brick color. Giving the models the lightest dusting of flat black spray paint is a cheap and easy way of adding additional weathering. Cheap ribbon found at the craft store makes for great window shades. I also use Testor's canopy glue to attach window glazing. Thanks for shooting and sharing.
I picked up one of these on ebay for about $2. It was missing the part where you mount the door and it also came with one other structure that may have been missing something too, but for the pieces of scrap at least, it was a great value. Some of these can be really inexpensive on ebay.
Another option over cheap kits new is look online for unboxed second hand kits. I bought two for $5 and $15 Canadian and buying more off the same guy soon. Cheap and not a biggie to use to learn to paint or paint better
Jimmy,enjoy these content,i like the help full tips.I myself am working on my n scale model power kits.I am not as good as you.But enjoy building them.On keeping the walls together while they dry,i use rubber bands and let it dry overnight.Please keep these type of content on how to building kits.Now i want to see how you apply your decals.Also is there anyone else showing how to build kits? Great Video,and Happy Railroading.🌏✌
Hi Jimmy, heck when I was 12 I used to produce models a heck of a lot better than I do now at 57. I was really into micro detail. If it was a car I even painted the speedometer with the numbers readable. Wish I had that still. O well life
Ok I’m a newbie, planning a 1910-1930 mining lay out T&T/ Bullfrog RR in western Nevada, eastern California Looking for buildings associated with industries and towns from this era
As a left hander, You gotta move your camera so it shoots from over your right shoulder. We are looking at the back of your hand for about 40% of this video.
Yes in Europa they are very expensive but i love the whole town. Bought the big box for 220 canadian dollars and took it back home to Amsterdam. Love it
I like the amount of instruction that you provided on the building of this kit. Great job!
Nice video, some additional suggestions:
The wall casting have a release angle that doesn't let the walls make good gluing contact, and, if not addressed, leaves a void in the side. You addressed this by adding putty to fill and smooth that surface. I have found that I prefer to sand that release angle so the side walls have a flat edge. As you say, the plastic sands easily, so this doesn't take long. Just be sure to keep everything square.
When weathering, try to make all your weathering strokes vertical to the walls, not across. It is a small thing, but yields big results.
I never paint a building wall with only one color. Instead, I use two or three varied colors and do multiple coats while everything is still wet. The larger the building, the more this adds to the affect. The idea is to blend the colors in a way that the overall building color is faded and not uniform.
The same affect really stands out on the roof. Blend some colors, flat black followed by a dark gray mist works well for me. Be sure to do the over spray immediately after spraying the black so they blend together.
These are great buildings and really lend themselves to kitbashing, or using multiple kits to build larger factories.
DPM is a staple in the model railroading community. They’re everywhere
Thanks, Jimmy. As noted by another, along with the angles edges of the walls, there is brick detail on the sides of the walls. It will indicate which walls go inside the other walls: e.g., I notice that you put the side walls behind the front wall and the back wall inside the side walls. If you look closely, you will see that the building is not exactly square. However, in N scale, that may not be as noticeable as in HO scale on O scale.
Blue painters tape on the sides, will help with avoiding paint where the glue goes. You definitely have skills.
Hi Jimmy, I love these DPM kits. I have built them and they are reasonably easy to get a great result. Like anything else, just take your time. In the end it’s the additional details you add that give them life. Thanks for a easy, breezy tutorial. See ya next time.
Great idea with the flat brush, thanks
Thanks for the tips. I have a lot of kits to build for the small layout that I'm "building". I agree that the flat brush works very well on painting these small buildings. I was glad to see that you used regular modeling glue. It seemed to work well.
Try washing parts first to remove release agent
Lots of great tips
Additional hints: Wash the plastic parts in mild soap and allow them to dry fully before preceding. Often on these buildings the front would be painted while the other 3 sides would be a natural brick color. Giving the models the lightest dusting of flat black spray paint is a cheap and easy way of adding additional weathering. Cheap ribbon found at the craft store makes for great window shades. I also use Testor's canopy glue to attach window glazing. Thanks for shooting and sharing.
my kit for scenic ridge dpm comes tomorrow so hyped
I picked up one of these on ebay for about $2. It was missing the part where you mount the door and it also came with one other structure that may have been missing something too, but for the pieces of scrap at least, it was a great value. Some of these can be really inexpensive on ebay.
Video is JIT. I’ve got some DPM kits I’ve yet to build. This video helps a lot. Thanks. Anthony
Another option over cheap kits new is look online for unboxed second hand kits. I bought two for $5 and $15 Canadian and buying more off the same guy soon. Cheap and not a biggie to use to learn to paint or paint better
Jimmy,enjoy these content,i like the help full tips.I myself am working on my n scale model power kits.I am not as good as you.But enjoy building them.On keeping the walls together while they dry,i use rubber bands and let it dry overnight.Please keep these type of content on how to building kits.Now i want to see how you apply your decals.Also is there anyone else showing how to build kits? Great Video,and Happy Railroading.🌏✌
Great video on painting and assembly. Some great techniques that I will definitely try. Thanks for sharing.
Nice video of the dpm kits Jimmy I like how u painted that building it looks good sir tc Happy Railroading
Hi Jimmy, heck when I was 12 I used to produce models a heck of a lot better than I do now at 57. I was really into micro detail. If it was a car I even painted the speedometer with the numbers readable. Wish I had that still. O well life
Thanks with regard to giving these very good subject material.
hi Jimmy.. nice build...looks very nice.. thx for sharing... vinny
It would be great if they also sell the white casting detail items like they include in the Night Life (DPM Gold series kits) kit.
Ok I’m a newbie, planning a 1910-1930 mining lay out T&T/ Bullfrog RR in western Nevada, eastern California
Looking for buildings associated with industries and towns from this era
You can also put a arduino nano inside with some leds. So you can see someone going to the toilet after hanging at the bar down there. ;)
As a left hander, You gotta move your camera so it shoots from over your right shoulder.
We are looking at the back of your hand for about 40% of this video.
AND they're half the price of other kits ! This one was about $15.99 locally.
Great channel love the models, but a rip off in UK for same or similar models...
Yes in Europa they are very expensive but i love the whole town. Bought the big box for 220 canadian dollars and took it back home to Amsterdam. Love it
Jimmy now that i have a 3d printer i can print buildings if your interested let me know
I have one too! I'm thinking of doing a series on how to design and print from scratch.
@@DIYDigitalRailroad please do theres alot that can be found on thingaverse.com but there is not much for 1960s or earlier