How to - Replace Trailer Wheel Bearings // Supercheap Auto
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- čas přidán 8. 09. 2024
- Learn more here: AU bit.ly/2z7sRwk NZ bit.ly/2izKduW
This video is a quick guide to replacing the bearings only without the races, to replace the races as well check out this great how-to video featuring the ToolPRO Bearing, Race & Seal toolkit: • How to - Replace Wheel...
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Hey everyone, To replace wheel bearing & wheel bearing races, check out this great how-to video using a ToolPRO Bearing, Race & Seal Driver Kit: czcams.com/video/ugUrSdpLMT0/video.html
Concise and straight to the point, no Hollywood openings or 10 mins of bumping gums, this is how videos should present 10/10
Finally a CZcams video that’s direct and to the point. No wasting time.
Thank you!
Good video, to the point, 3 minutes long, everything that’s important is there. Thank You sir 😌
By far the MOST helpful video on trailer hubs to bearings on spindles I have ever seen. Bravo. job well done.
Timely and informative. My trailer is currently sitting roadside with vaporized bearings on one axle. This will help in getting her rolling again. Thank you!
The only video to show the actual order of placing the bearings. Thank you!
Refreshing to see an informative and very quality video in such a short and straight to the point format! Thank you
Looks like you like having everything prepared before you grab the tools. I appreciate the prep work
Failure to prepare = preparing to fail.
No pointless lead up just straight to the point , I have to do this job now on my boat trailer and found the right video to save my time cheers supercheap
I have replaced thousands and thousands of bearings and admittedly use an arbor press and specially lathe turned pushers and seaters to easily and accurately remove and install bearing components. However, the item to be repaired it is not always close to a arbor press or having any installation and removal tools handy.
There are six areas of caution that are not mentioned in this video, that I would like to add and I will do my best to describe them without the benefit of a video.
1. One must take care when driving out the outer races (cups) from the hubs. When installed, the cups must sit squarely in the bore they are placed in and the back of the cup must fit snugly against the entire surface in the back. What I often see is that people use screwdrivers, punches or other hard tools to drive out the cups from the bore. Doing so, people often put the edge of the tool in the space where the steel of the hub meets the back of the hardened race. When they hit this with a hammer, it distorts and expands the softer metal in the hub. Thus, when the new cup is placed in the bore, the flat backside hits that raised portion when it tries to seat and no-longer sits square in the bore. This causes problems because the inner race cones are sitting square on the shaft but do not set square with the hub cup and causes premature wear. In addition, this puts the inner and outer cups out of square to each other. I would recommend using an aluminum. brass, or copper drift to knock out the outer race. Being careful not to hit the hub steel whenever possible and to be driving vertically. If one accidentally causes the metal to distort where the seat is, take a small abrasive stone and remove the high spot. It’s pretty easy to tell where the highest point is, as it will turn out shiny when the stone is passed over it and another way to do it is to use a black felt marker pen and cover the area and then rub it with the flat of the stone to make sure that all the surfaces are the same shade of black and thus the same height.
2. Continuation on driving out the cups, I often see that there are score marks on the side of the hub bore from the punches, screwdrivers and other hard tools as they are used to continue driving cup out of the bore. This again causes distortions when the new cup is placed inside the bore. When the outer diameter of the new cup hits the scored marks, it pushes it inward a bit and causes the bore to no-longer be round. This again causes shortened bearing life. Again, use a abrasive stone (round one) to check for any high spots that must be removed in the bore in order to have a good bearing life.
3. Replace the cups using a soft metal. Using punches, screwdrivers and other hard tips tools can actually distort the metal in the cup and cause it to have a high spot or spots that will cause problems. Again use a softer metal.
4. When installing seals, I like to use a Block of wood, as it is soft and covers a large area. This helps to eliminate concentrated force like a steel hammer produces. Evenly go around the seal to slowly and evenly seat the seal, in most cases until the face of the seal is even with the hub face. In some circumstances the back side of the seal needs to rest at the bottom of the bore where the seat is.
5. I would add that you also want to check the spindle to make sure that is not worn, I have often seen spindles that have five, ten or more thousandths of an inch worth of wear on them and the inner race fits quite loose and will not produce a good repair. A loose fit between a spindle and the cone bearing bore in often allow the inner race to spin spin on the spindle and accelerate this wear causing problems. If so where is severe. It’s probably best to replace a spindle to be safe.
6. I always make sure there’s some grease around the inner backside of the seal (inside the seals Metal housing) to ensure that the seal has lubrication. Also, put some lubrication on the shaft and seal when installing to make sure that the seal does not start out dry, possibly causing the rubber to be torn away or quickly eroded, causing future leaks.
I can’t read
What a disclaimer! My first new car had instructions to change the head gasket. Now the instructions tell you, "Don't drink the battery acid".
Typical and no further explanation I’m guessing
I use a piece of 1x4 wood to seat the grease seal
One smack and seats perfectly everytime.
I usually use a timber block to tap in the bearing buddies, much better than a cap. Other options are to replace the entire hub with a new one that has already been packed with grease and ready to be installed.
Don’t use bearing buddies they don’t do anything other than damage
This is a fine illustrative director. two points :- Shimming up with steel washer or grind down the back of the nut a shim in order to get a snug fit without generating heat. Also what happened to the grease nipple . This can be tapped into the hub and threaded so that a snug fit is made. Do not forget to drill a bleed hole 1/8" in the middle of the outer Cap so you can verify the bearings are always not overpacked as heat can blow the rear Carbon/Rubber seal. Check every 150 miles.
great video, thanks, you didn't loose any time talking, you went right to explained the parts. I guest is up to us to decide when to replace parts.
right to the important points in as quick of a vid as possible = its the best way to help people . thanx!
Perfect video, straight to the point. Thanks
thanks!!! i just replaced all new and bearing spit out after 6 months or less? i bought 2 and didnt due other side yet so new parts already here. but i noticed and why i watched i put seal in backwards in a hurry i guess? live and learn i hope! lol
To the point, clear and concise. Thanks SCA. That guy's voice sounds familiar :-)
Excellent video! This is how it's done properly.
How about replacing the outer cups, this method only replaces half of the bearing. It won't last doing this method.
Thats why its call super cheap😂😂😂😂
Only half of the bearing, how so?
I haven't replaced bearings before, but I need to now as the trailer has been sitting for 12 years.
Any advice beyond this video would be greatly appreciated, I want to do a proper job so I only have to do it once.
Also, do you know how I could tell what type of bearings I need, as in, are there different sizes etc?
@@milkshakemuncher Take the bearings and seal to a bearing shop and they should sort for you.
Great video as a review for someone that had done this job before. Thanks ScA
very helpful video. I wonder why some viewers find it entertaining to pick on term you use rather than the content. good work.
Simple and to the point. Many thanks.
Very good video. Great explanation of procedure. Now I feel confident that I can do this myself. Thank you.
Check for overheating each time you stop and carry an extra greased hub just in case. Thanks for sharing.
Great idea
The roller bearings ride on the bearing cups ( Races ). They should be replaced, NOT sanded or filed.
Yes and are a PAIN to remove, just spend hours trying to do them, finally got them replaced and the hub and wheel is back on the trailer! Tomorrow I'll do the left side one.
He is talking about the inner hub surface being filed or sanded to remove burs, not the outer bearing race. Trying to make it easy to remove the old race or insert a new one.
finally short and simple
No mention of replacing the inner race of the bearing?
That's why there are thousands of trailers by the side of the road in Australia with owners yelling "why didn't you tell me about THAT bearing mate?"
Right to the point well done
Thanks for that. Well produced and concise. Great tuition.
Great explanation katribo cheap
Lets hope i get it right tomorrow
Thanks, great video, I needed a refresher. :)
Excellent vid, thank you. I do wear gloves though.
Good video but I'm more picky about adjustment , after seating bearing and backing off I check for end play by lifting hub or put tire on an try to wiggle up and down,a very small amount of play is acceptable but sometimes you have to try a different thickness washer or you can grind / sand a few thousands off of back of nut to let you tighten to next notch but not making it too tight, too tight no good too loose no good
SAID WELL!!!
Super easy thanks man
Exactly what I needed to learn and what's better it precise and to the point, no fluff. Thanks
Was a great help! Thank you!
Hi Carl, Yeh I guess I was a bit cranky when I wrote that. In engineering everything has a specific name, or it should. Otherwise how would describe anything. A cotter pin is a solid steel cylinder with a flat taper on one side (there is no 'side' until the taper is machined). There is usually a thread on the taper end to which a washer and a nut are attached. These pins were common on bicycle cranks until the late 1980's, they were also used to attach pulleys and sprockets etc to shafts.
the last sentence scared me, you said you are here to help.....ARE you from the government?
great video, like a party dress, short, sweet and to the point.
Appreciate it❤️
Thanks Bud!!👍
Very good; thanks
In the UK (and, I assume, Australia) a cotter pin is a specific fastener. Here in the US, "cotter pin" can refer to a split pin, an r-clip, a circle cotter, or one other that I can't remember. So it would seem that since he is referring to a split pin as a cotter pin, I would venture to say that he is either catering to Americans, and/or is indeed one himself.
Simple and clear, well done and thank you.
Does Supercheap sell gloves and ring-openender spanners?
If I purchased extra sets and need to store them should I grease em up and bag em? Or just leave them the way they come oiled? It may be 5 years before I need them.
The point which is overlooked is that once you have done all the points illustrated there is something that could be done which is not shown. All Bramber Trailers and Light Field Gun Carriages and Camping Trailers have a Grease Nipple on each road wheel . This has to be tapped then screwed into the bearing hub before it is loaded with the bearings,and sometimes a shim or washer.made in steel there is also a , Carbon Rubber Seal ; Drill 1/8th hole in Hub Cap fill until it bleeds a spot of grease
Beautiful
Great vid!
Great help
Doesn't show the removal or even mention the INNER bearing! Was it just too difficult to get out mate?
Which video were you watching then??
I have a trailer with pressure washer and now when I put the inside bearing the sealer goes in the flat or the open faces the axle
So don't these have OUTER bearing cases that need to be hammered out? He only removed and replaced the INNER bearing ???
Can someone help me out? I'm about to attempt new bearings on a 6x4 trailer with a 4 stud hub.
I haven't done mechanical work in a long time - but had done many wheel bearings way back and always used to punch out the outer case from the stub axle.
When replacing your leaf springs how do you know exactly where to bolt the axle to the leaf spring with the u-bolts? I mean couldn’t it be off by even a slight amount and then the wheel will also not roll exactly straight??? For example if you don’t bolt the axle down perfectly with the leaf springs say it’s half an inch forward or half an inch backward than the wheel will not spin perfectly straight? Anyone know how to know the exact spot to bolt the axle onto the leaf springs with the u-blots????
Haven't seen a video yet where they replace the cups(race) only doing half the job
Hiw do I know what way the bearings and seals fo in i feel dumb im pretty good on doing all the work on my vehicles ive just never done a bearing on a utility trailer before
Use your phone and take pictures,,thanks
Good, shorter video, but for those who do not know, it would’ve been helpful to explain how to choose a new set of bearings and what grease to use.
You take your old ones to the bearing shop, and you use bearing grease. EP Lithium but it usually says on tin its for wheel bearings.
The wheel came off my trailer loosing the castle nut. I can get new bearings to match but I'm finding it impossible to get a castle nut. What are my options?
got different kind of axle I took 4 screws out and I don't have cotter pin it is just one piece and don't look like bearings come oUT at all I really lost on this hub
Is this same for an old Ute
Did I miss the part where you replace worn races in the hub?
Any idea why a dust cover will not stay on the hub .
F'in hell that's alot of grease! Great video
same thing applies for semi trailers
good
Man, I love grease.
Can you do a video on how to replace the Flux capacitor and blinker fluid next please?
What if my doesn’t have a washer?
Gloves?
did ed harris just change wheel bearings?
why would you not replace the race, you have it apart
As a trailer mechanic for a living, you never stick new bearings in the old races
Hi, may I ask what you mean about new bearings onto old races?
I have to do my boat trailer bearings as it's been sitting around for 12 years unused.
The only knowledge I have is this video, so I don't know what races are and where they took short cuts in this video.
Any help would be greatly appreciated
@@milkshakemuncher the races are what the bearing rides on inside the Hub, if you remove old rusty wheel bearings and put new bearings into the old rusty races you're just going to ruin the new bearings you have to pound out the old races
@@TheOriginalAndysGarage thank you, I will look for these when doing the bearings, may I ask, are there only one size and type of wheel bearings to buy?
Or are there a multitude of sizes etc, just wondering how I know to order the correct bearings for a boat trailer (14ft 6 inch Aluminium boat), we call them tinnies here in Australia
@@milkshakemuncher you can buy a rebuild kit it comes with everything
👍👍‼️
No waisted talk
This is only a bush mechanic half job. . What about the outer rings of the bearings? They are just as important. . Only do this method if you are broken down on the side of the road. . If you are in the workshop like this bloke you can easily knock them outer rings out with a brass punch and replace them also. . That will make your bearings last twice as long. .
By outer rings, you mean the race
No glove no love
You showed installing the seal on the OUTSIDE bearing (same side as the studs), then magically it was not there. Ooops.
Just go buy the hub assembly, in the long run cheaper
Pity you don't know the difference between a split pin and a cotter pin. The bearings seizing is less of a problem than the bearing disintegrating and the wheel coming off.
This seems incomplete. And that dude apparently has never heard of disposable gloves…
I was gonna pay a mechanic a stupid price to do this, but not now.
You are greasing it wrong. The "roolers" pardon my language, have to be where you grease it op in you palm. When its okay you can see it on the inside....
You could use a grease gun to put grease in more better and less messy plus pack the bearings too top just saying
1:58 ...Kinky
ya allah plz forgive me stop watching this.
WTF!! I followed your instructions to a T and used the Timken bearings available at supercheap, and you made NO mention to replace the bearing collar, or even their existance! Why make an online tutorial that does not suit your products sold!
Jason P yep that's why you just thumb down his video and go to the next one
Put some damn gloves on.
Pl😮
Wear some gloves, dude!
Missed the point where you put the outer part in the bearing. Because of this I fucked my bearings and had to punch it back out. Watch another video this one’s shithouse.
if you want God to forgive you dont commet here just go to the church and pray.
Slick video, but poor teaching tool. Why not SHOW what you describe? For example we never see the punch you use. It’s primarily why I came here … clearly show the seal from both sides and highlight , not just tell to instal in correct way.
Backing off nut for bearing preload is bogus and a caveman level method. There should be only a slight preload and that should be done by tightening the nut, NOT loosening it. You cannot get an accurate feel of preload that way. I usually drill an extra hole in the axle for the cotter key so that there are twelve positions that the castle nut can be locked at. That way it is possible to get the correct preload without having to leave the bearing floppy loose but still have a slight preload. I do this type of work for 51 years and still have to see this bullshit method as on this video.
Yep he backed off the bearing and and didnt check for slack
@Bill Gabriel. I don't understand why people dan't know to tighten an axle nut to the obvious point why you have no end play. You cannot find that point by backing off a nut. This is a professional way of adjusting axle nuts by tightening for no play. Contrary to a number of youtubers tapered wheel bearings should have a very slight preload which insures that each roller in the bearing is supporting its share of the weight. Any looseness causes fewer rollers to support the weight which causes more undo stress on them and shortens the life of the bearing. I have packed the wheel bearings many times in the last 52 years and none have gone bad with my procedure which was taught me by older mechanics and bearing companies. Now everyone things the exspasion rate of an axle and expansion rate of the hub are too different so you have leave end play. B.S. I have trailers (not semi trailers) that I packed over twenty years ago and have no bad bearings. That is because I don't short change the bearings and hubs of grease and there is no looseness like almost every factory that builds axles leaves for the customer to deal with. 😀
The guys accent is kinda cool but who replaces bearings without replacing races??!! The title of this should be "How To Repack Bearings" because that's about all it tells you.
Yang pilih allah like.
Maybe it didn't have a race Doug. Not all trailer axle are the same and if this video doesn't help you or is the same axle you are working on then just move on without saying anything stupid. Picton both bearings were replaced and yet you still add a stupid comment.
Jill Markley how can a bearing not have a race?
Not enough specifics for me, as in glosses over detail that I need. Names parts without showing what they are. Outer races? Cups? You mention these but don't show what they are. Too general. If a viewer knows what these parts are they probably don't need to watch this. On the other hand this video is aimed at noobs like me but it doesn't have enough information.
Watch some more youtube videos about it then
Gloves are cheap.