How to filter Waste Vegetable oil Fuel ( WVO)
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- čas přidán 23. 04. 2014
- How to Process WVO Waste vegetable Oil for use as Motor Vehicle Fuel.
This Shows how I filter and dry used vegetable oil for use as motor Fuel in Diesel engines.
The WVO is Processed in the form of being filtered and processed at the same time to create a WVO product which is suitable for use in Diesel engines as Waste vegetable oil Fuel. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Been running my truck (on/off) waste veg oil since '05 and its been a great money saving side venture/adventure for sure. Noticed other folks commenting here on what people think/say when they hear of this concept and it never ceases to amaze me how most turn their noses up at the whole idea, or comment on how "you are being cheap" (because of course they aren't trying it, nor reaping any of the benefit)...yet shockingly for many of them, its perfectly okay to sponge off the government for years and years and years, steal to make ends meet, or even accept wars of human sacrifice and mass-destruction to procure and control foreign oil. It is amazing to me how so many can be so short sighted... even when simple DIY solutions are presented to them in a step-by-step youtube video. Oh well... more waste veg oil for the rest of us I guess ;)
does it damage your engine in the long run? how clean does the WVO burn from your experience ? thx
Couldn't agree more mate. Like Idiots that sook " I wouldn't put that in my car/ truck" and then have vids of them dong burnouts or have done other illegal and suspect mods or generally flogging the crap out of the vehicle they talk about like a living thing despite abusing the hell out of it. The otehrs who have been telling me for 15 years it will kill my car yet I haven't had an oil related engine failure yet. Then there are others that " don't want to take any risks and need gauranteed it won't harm their engine. Fk off. Go buy a new car if you want gaurantees and pay the price for that. I'll take my chances and so far they have paid off better than any lottery I have ever paid to be in.
I agree. I did this for even longer! I saved so much and helped the environment by not using petrol based fuel in my truck. I've saved about 800 gallons of diesel per year since 2008 thanks to wvo and with good processing and proper swithover to and from diesel fuel systems, my truck still runs great. Many wvo users I've met long ago were too lazy to properly process wvo and had issues with quickly clogging their vehicle strainets and filters making their trips problematic. Good on you and the video maker!
He clearly show how to remove gunk and water, but how do i know that the desolved suger and salts gets removed? Does really one micron take care of the problem. Also you need something to make the oil viscous as diesel. For you to run your car in only veg oil.
@@pontuslaurell8178 if you live in a warm climate you won't have to heat the used oil to get it working correctly in the diesel injection system. I live in a hot climate so it doesn't feel up like diesel does in a cold climate. Depending on your climate you might have to put a warmer on the filter before the injection pump.
Hi mate. I have built one of your pumps (scooter motor and modified chev oil pump). Works amazing for collecting oil! I also tried your oil dewatering system using nozzle and recirculation pump. I processed 200L of wet oil today and it worked a treat. Thank you for sharing your knowledge! I used a silicone drum band heater from ebay to heat the oil in the drum while it circulates. I used the water filter to filter it. I used an old oscillating fan to keep airflow over the oil. Think I'll set something up with a ventilation fan to suck air through top of drum when I find a cheap used one. Thanks again mate for sharing.
You are very ingenious. The explanation is clear and very interesting to watch. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it and thank you very much for the kind words. Much appreciated!
btw...GREAT VIDEOS! Keep 'em coming!!
As good a system as any I ‘ve seen . Bit too small scale for my needs( I’m running two 4x4s using about 45 litres a week each). Good job bloke, love your pumps.
I do 1000 litres every 3 months in about 2-3 hours. I do my supply pickups every week in the 20 lt drums. Not sharing my plant as I’m too stupid to work utube. I’m in NQ so don’t need to heat electrically for drying- The power of the sun! I use three stages of settling in 1000 litre tanks, 3 months each time with first a screen then a coarse filter almost the same as yours, then a 5 micron filter and a final filter as I fill my tank. I started with a 200 litre plant not unlike yours except I used old Commodore power steering pumps, which were a bit small when I upsized. Great video thanks.
Great setup!!
Cheers for sharing mate 👍
You got a funny accent mate :D I like it plus very good video
Brilliant vid, thanks
an electric hob plate used in some kitchens would be a good idea to accompany that fan to gently heat the oil to dry it also, i heat my oil before it flows to my burner as i seem to notice it ignite better and i get a better burn on a lower needle valve setting, if the oils cold i have to open the needle valve flow up more. jus an idea,
Hi, in case anyone wonders regarding the drying with the fan in reverse:
If you blow air into the barrel, you create a slight overpressure and thereby increases vaporization temperature and it slows down the drying.
If you reverse and suck air out, you create a slight underpressure and lowers vaporization temperature and speeds up the drying.
Best explanation I have heard. Thanks!
Nice vid. I will give it a try.
good idea trailer
i have to for water (off grid place, with small bath rochet ü)
have fun
What diesel car truck do you use for the veggie oil please
hi. Can you tell us more about your burner? It looks pretty much simple but I have not tried making one. Your input would help a lot. Thank you!
i'm a cook, i think the foaming might be corn starch which may or may not be caught by a 5mic filter
Do you have any idea as to how much water is in the oil ? And what is the hot pan test (I have an idea but before I jump to any conclusions...)
That was a good video illustration . Thanks for it. Im new to this or rather doing it the correct way. For a long while in the tractors I've been using filtered waste motor oil and simply add nearly a gallon of gasoline to every 5 gallon of oil. The tractor runs strong on this mix. Last week I bought two 1986 F250`s that have sat 10+ years without running. I now have them running and driving again on regular pump bought diesel. I really wander can I filter the used restaurant oil and add the 20 percent gasoline will that work ok for these old engines?
Hears of one person with a toyota landcruiser 1hz stock motor running 10% gasoline or petrol we call it in Australia and no problem, two filters and a seperate tank and running the wvo once hot.
Enter text here 😂
I feel smarter after watching this
@Oil Burner How did you get rid of the dissolved suger and salts? if i would do this i would want to be absolutly certain that the fuel wont damage the car in any way further on.
There are no sugars or salts in Oil. They will only dissolve in water. If you dry the oil then any sugar or salts will drop out and be caught in the filter. I have been doing this 15 years and never had a problem.
If you are looking for guarantees and are going to be pedantic about engine life etc, this isn't for you. How long should an engine last anyway? They are never the same even on pump fuel so worrying one might shorten the life using oil is a sign that this again is not going to be a suitable thing for you to do. This is ALTERNATE fuel. No gaurantees, no certainties, and no room for worrying. If you want gaurantees and warranties, Go buy a new car and pay for the required services and hope if something does go wrong they will fix it because that's not a certainty either.
I look at it from the POV that I only have to get 3 yrs out of a vehicle and I can replace the engine and still be in front. Never had to do that yet so I could replace the vehicle several times over and still not worry.
I like your concept here mate, what's the go with the circ pump ?
is it a water pump?
also, do the string wound filters last longer or filter better?
great vid, lots of info here.
cheers.
Yep, Just a water pump. The ones with the larger impellers/ Housings tend to work better on oil than the ones with the small impellers usually called Turbo type pumps. The larger impellers seem to get a better bite on the more viscous oil.
String wond filters are my preference but harder to get where I am. I think they last longer but that said I'm consistently getting over 2000L through the foam type filters that cost 8 bux. How you prefilter/ settle your oil makes a big difference to the filter life. 6 Months + is a good settling time I have found.
As for filtering better, you can get them in different Micron ratings. I use 1Um if I can get them and 5 If not.
Hi Oil Burner.
I have been looking at ways to make a burner for a foundry furnace as propane is too expensive and I like your burner ideas. I think I will make up a pressurised fuel tank type burner and bouncy castle fan setup. I shall just experiment with that.
I am wondering if you would bother de-watering oil for foundry burner use and if I should worry about gloopy fat in the fuel?
I have 200 litres of old veg oil and various drums of engine oil / heating oil / dirty diesel etc that has accumulated in my workshop. Can I mix the lot together or does it separate out and do something odd?
Cheers.
Rob
De watering really depends on the amount of water. If there is free water in the bottom of a drum I would say dry it. Free water translates to maximum dissolved water and while it will work, it's noticeably poorer burning and far harder to start than dry oil.
The sludge at the bottom is HEAVILY water laden and you will see just how much water is in it when you dry it and see how much less oil you end up with because the water is now Driven off.
As to the blending the engine oil, diesel and WMO, really depends on ratios. It may or may not separate but if it does, all you need to is mix it before use and it will take some time to settle out.
You could blend it, mix it and decant into smaller drums and then mix before use with a paint mixer on a drill or something.
@@glumpy10 That is great. Thank you.
I shall dry the oil then.
I have had that barrel of veg oil years. I had to loosen the lid on the 40 gallon drum as it was getting very pressurised and swelling the ends of the drum. I think some goo is fermenting in there, so I think it might not be the best but still need to use it up. The local chip shop might have some better oil too. The guy who runs the chip shop runs the cleanest chip shop ever and I suspect the oil would be very clean too.
I have been melting aluminium on a friends propane furnace but want to go up a step into melting copper and casting bronze in my own furnace, hence trying to work out what best to do.
Also very impressed with your heath and safety attitude.... much like mine.
Cheers.
Rob
gooday mate, dont know if youll ever read this but anyhoo, many of the vids ive watched use cartridge type filters to seperate any water as does my rodeo, do you know if thats enough. I once got some blobs in my wvo that went through my filter bags (1micron) through the injectors and into the sump then clogged the oil lines and seized the motor dont know what it was but i thought it was water I found the gel like blobs in the fuel injector pump when i pulled it down. Also see blokes using centrifuge now as well. so you mentioned selling soap have you gone to biodeisel now, also i mix 25% deisel with my wvo now..... reasons are its gravity feed filter system flows and filters much better, cold start no worries, my engine retains more power at this mix , injecters dont seem to clog, much better klm per litre .. yes it costs a bit more but not much really compared to 100%deisel cheers mate
Unlike Diesel, water WILL dissolve into WVO. Therefore a separator won't do any good. I would Highly doubt it was water that Siezed your engine. I use and highly recommend water injection and if the water went through your injectors into the Cylinder It would have burned off the same way. Would take a Biblical amount that the engine would probably not run to get past the rings into the bearings etc and bearings won't rust anyway as they are non ferrous. I am very big on Drying oil as I have come across VERY little that didn't have some moisture in it despite what people claim.
Evaporation is the best way to dry oil, boiling takes forever and soes not work as well. also can be dangerous with steam explosions for really wet oil as I have found out. Having the oil dry means no risk of growths in the fuel tank, damage to injector pumps and give noticeable better performance.
Blending WVO with Diesel or Petrol is a good Practice. I use 5-10% petrol, maybe 15% when it's really cold to the oil and it also brings the timing back closer to that of Diesel. Oil lights off about 10% Slower than diesel and petrol having much lower compression resistance, lights off around 13:1 so brings the timing back closer to where it normally is set for diesel.
The petrol component ignite first setting off the oil and making for a cleaner, more complete burn. The ease of starting and the power increase is noticeable.
I would not recommend going over 15% though, that goes the other way and becomes detrimental.
Try Pulling the diesel content down and add 5% Unleaded and see how you go. Petrol is also thinner than diesel which means You can get thin oil not thick Diesel.
do you add anythinh\g to the oil after filtering or just using it straight with no additives ??
Just straight. With my veg oil I use the crappy stuff that I won't put in the vehicle and get rid of my used engine oil in the burners too. Much to a lot of the Environmental Nazis upset. :0) If you had stale petrol, Diesel, old turps or anything else flameable you could throw it in to get rid of it.
Hey Oil Burner! How the devil are ya? Great videos thank you very much and very entertaining. I am going to try and set up a processor the same way you did but I have one question.What is the exact pump you are using if you don't mind me asking? If you don't know or reckon I couldn't get the same one do you think a 12v DC marine pump would work? Does it make much difference in pumps? I have heard many kinds of pumps wont work with WVO. Im getting it off ebay so id rather not experiment with the pump. Thanks again and please keep making these videos! Very inspiring ways to make the neighbors nervous. :)
+Distilled Media
I don't know what the pump is, I bought it used off fleabay like several others I have bought. It's a 1" in/outlet and 600W from memory. For this sort of thing, There aren't many pumps that WON"T work. Just try and get one with a similar pump shape to this one. The pumps with the larger impellers sem to have more "bite" on the oil where as the ones with the small pump sections often called turbo pumps don't work as good. Many people use them but I found the one with more bulbous impellers work better.
Most of them are Chinese knockoffs now, even the brand name ones, so they are all very much the same. The one thing that seems to help for oil is if you get a pump with a relatively high head rating. That is the specified height it will pump the water up to. The other rating is lift but that's irrelevant in this case as the liquid will be above the pump anyway.
Don't get pedantic about what pump you get, for THIS application, I really can't think of any that wouldn't work other than the pulse type 12V pumps which have very low pumping rates for what is needed here. Just stick to mains powered pumps with a bigger pump section and you should be fine.
+Oil Burner Thank you for that really in depth explanation. Totally makes sense. Ill go with one of the ole fleabay that looks a bit like yours 600w mains powered.
Any centrifugal or gear pump of 1/3 to 1/2 HP (250-500W) will work, just be sure to use a pre-strainer to catch the big chunks and nuts when you collect the oil.. A/C powered pumps are more convenient if you have grid or A/C generator power. I used a steel tank and used an air conditioning vacuum pump to evacuate the air from the tank before going to collect raw oil, so no pre-strainer was needed to collet, but used to strain the oil as it was poured by the restaurant staff.
You clearly show how to remove gunk and water, but how do i know that the desolved suger and salts gets removed? Does really one micron take care of the problem. Also you need something to make the oil viscous as diesel. For you to run your car on only veg oil. What could i use for this?
Sugar and salt Cannot dissolve in oil, only water.
You do not need to match the viscosity of Diesel if you have a mechanical Injector pump. They have more than enough tolerance to Pump clean, dry Veg oil despite what the alarmist's say.
If you have an electronic injector pump you shouldn't use more than about 10% oil as they are weak pumps and wont take it generally long term.
Dear Oil Burner. I intend to acquire a 1990s diesel car for under £2000 (based in the UK). What car/engine would you recommend to most reliably run used filtered and dewatered WVO?....... Also would it be safe or advisable to "thin" the WVO with either 1-3% white spirit or 5-10% unleaded petrol?
I don't know what is available in the UK but look for anything with a MECHANICAL Injection pump. In lines are best, mechanical Rotary's next best. Yes, I HIGHLY recommend the use of 5-10% ULP in with the oil up to 15% if it's really cold ( snowing). White spirit is also fine although ULP may be cheaper. Kero and turps is good too.
Oil Burner I am thinking of an 1997 Audi A4 1.9tdi 110HP Quattro (4wd). I'm not sure of the engine design, but it is known to be very reliable with some having done 1 million plus km.
cool setups.
How can you tell when the oil is 'dry'?
I do what is called a hot pan test which is dropping a small amount of oil in a smoking hot pan or pot and making sure there are no bubbles coming off it. You can look up HPT or Hot Pan Test for details
When the oil is REALLY dry, you can actually add a drop or 3 of water to a small sample and it still shows dry in the HPT.
In practicality I have a very good idea how long it takes now so I just let it run and give it a bit extra and pump it out.
Oil Burner
Very cool, many thanks. I had no idea.
Every setup I've seen online seems to have a very messy
area surrounding the oil storage and pumping station. Is there
a way to keep this clean? or are the barrels and IBCs leading
no matter what?
i imagine the pipe that goes into the containers behind the restuarants
will allways come out soaked in oil right? That calls for a dedicated vehicle
to do the collection rounds.
Are you getting the oil for free from your locations?
Yves Baggi The containers don't leak but splashes and drips don't dry like water and soon add up. You can keep everything clean and everyone means to at the start but soon works out how much work that is and doesn't bother before long. Caustic Soda is very effective at cleaning oil spills though. I just wipe the pickup I put in the barrels with a rag and that stays clean. I have a rubber mat in the back of my vehicle and am careful so Very rarely have any spills or mess in that and it is just my everyday car. I get all my oil for free as to the restaurants it is just a waste product they need to dispose of and are happy for me to take away.
Hello. What would you consider better, the way you're drying in the video or a centrifugal dryer? But considering,
.Time taken
.energy used ( burnt oil included)
.quality of the finished product
.reliability and efficiency
.plus simplicity and ease of use
Cheers
I have used and set up centrifuges for other people and prefer this method I still use and just set up for a friend. Centrifuges take a LOT of energy, don't really dry the oil unless you use heat or some other separate way and can have problems. The spinner type use jets of oil and it has to be pretty clean to start or the jets block. I would go for the bowl type but they are not cheap and can be a bit of mucking round.
The output quality is second to none but that's a bit like Giving me a $1000 bottle of wine as against a $50, The 50 is well good enough and the extra "quality" will go to waste on me with the 1000 because I cant tell.
I centrifuged my output from this process a couple of times and what came out was irrelevant. Had to wipe your finger on the bowl to see what came out of 200L and it was all the micro fines which would pass through filters and the system anyway.
I choose to stay with this very same system today.
One thing though, If you are just using oil for a burner, NO need to go to this trouble. This is only for engine use. For burners I just filter though things like Disposable shopping bags or a big roll of felt I bought years ago very cheap and that's all you need. Just enough to get the bits out, no need to go overboard.
You can dry by throwing a fish tank bubbler in for a few days and that will take out the main moisture and good to go.
@@glumpy10 I'm going to use it for my 4x4 and when I get one a diesel generator. I'm just looking into ways to clean waste engine oil as I just got another 1000 litres today... I probably only burn 300 litres a year for heating so I have a constant supply and want help out my guy by removing his waste oil but I don't want to just store it or more accurately horde it.
@@smithbuilt If there is no water put into engine oil you should not have to dry it. Veg oil absorbs water, engine oil does not. If you let it stand any water should separate and take the top oil for the vehicle and the last 5th or so for the burner.
As you probably saw I use 10"water filters in either 1 or 5 UM ( micron) .
The foaming is from soap in the oil AKA glycerin
I can assure you that there is no soap or Glycerine in waste vegetable oil. We have a business making soap and both soap and Glycerine is formed with a chemical process using caustic soda (NaOH) and vegetable oil. Until this reaction occurs there is no soap or Glycerine.
Does activated charcoal works as filter for waste vegetable oii?
There is nothing that it would filter out that ordinary filters wouldn't get. You are only trying to get particles down to less than 10 Micron. If you can get them to 1 or 5 UM might be better but as far as I am aware activated charcoal is more a sub micron/ Chemical filter.
3-6 months, nah how can I filter the chunky stuff out in hours/few days
I use some felt or a reusable type woven shopping bag over an open drum.
You still alive?
I got a diesel capella a few months ago and got that running on WVO now
yes, still around, The China Virus has not got me yet but who knows for how long that will be.
Hunkered down at home, WVO readt to go to power generators and home heating If I need them.
@@glumpy10 oh aye, should make some videos on it, keep us entertained ahaha, what's your Facebook, I'll add you and send you a few photos of my vege oil set up, see what you think
Diesel foams like that too
[Sample Text]
Pump. Pumps. Pumped. Pumping.
Mate whatever works is best the least work you have to do is always best and gravity is the easiest please check out my vidieo "The cooking oil cruiser" and if your in a climate that is very dry its even easier and its wonderful re purposing things meant to filter water work just as well for oil and you've done really well adapting to your wants and needs bloody awesome love to see your vehicle and winging it is always best adapting to your circumstances.
gggg
and all that money saved on fuel is then spent on cleaning up the house and yard how stupid is that logic LOL!!!
I'm not sure but I doubt it's as stupid as your incomprehensible sentence!