Anode cup design finished - Project H #21
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- čas přidán 12. 05. 2021
- The new space for the development of our nixie tubes is already serving its purpose, so I am able to continue on the H tube project. The problem with rigidity of the anode cup, the main structural element, is hopefully solved - by the first stamped part I ever ordered.
The mentioned documentary: • MULLARD MADE FOR LIFE...
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Seeing that lathe fall over reminded me of Will Stelters power hammer falling of its pallet, i shouted NO!!!!!!! as it fell, just like i did for him.
love the new rooms!!
me too!! lol
The moment you dropped that lathe, I felt your pain...
me too i could see it happening
Indeed
At least he didn't drop it on his foot :)
Wow - that is a seriously white room! It has been fascinating to watch you revive this classic and unique display technology.
It's wonderful to see your work and your progresses. The amount of effort you put in getting things done and the money it costs, very well played. At #14:08 I feel the pain and you shocked me by simply remain in silence, I was expecting a lot of beeeeps in the audio XD
Thank you! I was actually relieved that it didn't fall on me :-) I somehow got used to be all day long stuck in problems anyway, so one more doesn't matter!
Instead of applying pressure to prevent wiggle... use insulators with larger diameter and sharp edges - more like washers, so small hole, large surface area. I think that would help tremendously! Digits should have the connetions larger as well so the idea is, once they're stacked, it will create rigid construction with no room to play.
Not sure how easy they would be to come by. Aren't they ceramic? I think clamping them down too hard to make it more rigid would just lead to them cracking.
@@amarpersaud2950 thats why I said this is an alternative to clamping them down
@@martincerny3294 sorry, I assumed the video meant sideways pressure while yours implied vertical (screw) pressure
Again.thx for letting us into the World of NixieTube...Horizontal tube lathe👍.
It's really wonderful to see your passion for the past and bringing life back to an old technology. Thanks for sharing your triumphs and battles it is encouraging!
Large digits are great, but there can be a problem. Even if digits will be mounted straight, they may bend and short after some shocks later. Maybe, bigger clearance will help. Otherwise, additional insulated pins or wire ridgepoles may be needed. Other idea is to mount some glass "comb" that will separate the digits.
Nádherná precizní práce... Musí to být skvělý pocit, když se po zhotovení digitron úspěšně rozsvítí. Krásná práce, jen tak dál 👍
Awesome. You are great. This new H tube is amazing, can wait to buy 6 of them.
This is my favorite series to date. Thanks for your hard work, thanks for sharing, and nice cinematic skills!
What a beautiful building to work in. Maybe not the most efficient but full of character.
Klobuk dole pan Farný, vela úspechov v ďalšej práci.
Advice, put a dirty sump pump in that cellar. That much standing water is not good for the masonry's binder nor for the masonry itself. Also, if that water isn't from the installation, to the building's owners, it would be a smart thing to obtain a permit from the local authorities and dig a shaft that goes deeper than the cellar by at least two meters, submerge a perforated pipe in which a pump exists, and fill the rest with gravel (to prevent water from freezing and cracking the pipe.
Source: what i did and what got rid of the inundation of my cellar.
not really recomended for such old buildings, it just strengthens the water spring and your pump can run quite frequently. it is just fighting with windmills, water is leveling with its natural depth in area. Also for durability of bricks in cellar is better to stay wet permanently then cycle dry/wet. Real solution is to make outside the building deep drainage excavations to get water level down, below fundations. But that needs money, permits and good hydrogeological project. I would say its definitely not Dalibor´s problem, cause he is just renting few rooms.
From the look of the castle im guessing, that there was a ditch around the outside that was filled in at one point in time. Probably when it was no longer needed as defense. Because this looks very much like a water castle otherwise.
Hello Dalibor, regarding the tension issue of the digits:
If I look at the cross-section at 6:05 I would think that, if the bottom part of the insulators goes through the Anode cup, then perhaps you can put tension between the two insulators behind the anode cup. This way it would pull the insulators apart on the other side, therefore putting more tension onto the digits. But I don't know if it is technically possible, as a spring or tension mechanism would have to survive the heating. And most of the time materials loose their "springiness" when heated up.
I just posted a different idea, to make the insulators larger instead of applying preasure. The larger the diameter, the smaller room for any movement. Imagine it as plastic washers... small hole but large surface area. The digit connection should also look like that so when stacked in the tube, it will make a rigid tower.
@@martincerny3294 true, but looking at the thickness of the digit wire I would think that it is probably more an issue of flex in the digit itself than flexing of the insulators. (And the insulators are made of ceramic, so not very flexible in the first place).
The problem is that the digits are not just straight wire, so applying to much tension might distort them in a different way (leading again to shorting).
@@Ranger_Kevin I'm not talking about flexing at all. Just that without pressure, there's room for the insulators to move around, just enough so that the digits can tilt a bit. Larger insulators => less room to play. Also if flexing is an issue here, easiest way to fix that would be encreasing thickness of the digits just enough. It would be immediately apparent when drawn form a side, but hope the explanation makes sense :)
@@martincerny3294 Ah, I understand. Yes, of course the insulators should fit tight into the holes so that there is no play in the parts. That would be the first thing to check.
Just thinking of the sagging digits, you could put an S curve or loop at one end and move the post at that end away from the digit about 0.5mm so each digit is in tension and individually sprung.
So Chinese friends watch your chanel. Great they did come with helping hand! But now wait for them to produce such tubes on their own, half price. You have all guides already ready for them to start their own factory ;-) Greetings from Poland!
Dalibor, you are such an inspiration. Just listening to you is calming and uplifting. And yay for bees. I'm working on capturing my first feral swarm!
Glad that some Polish made equipment is helping you. ; )
That poor lathe... and poor you. I hope it hasn't deformed too much from the drop. Thank you for the update!
For a second when I saw 5:50 I wondered if you'd made the little pen-tip nixie tube, then I remembered you previously saying you didn't think you'd ever make anything that small because of how hard an engineering challenge it'd be.
love everything your doing..pure art
One day soon, you will rule this entirely castle. Thanks for your video!
my heart sank when the lathe tipped over, live by the pallet jack, die by the pallet jack
I like that your shirt reads _"Bringing Nixie Tubes Back to Life"_ on the back! 👍
But I would also love to see you make some _"hobby-sized"_ cathode-ray tubes perhaps 5 years down the road! 😉
Hello Dalibor! That is a great and for sure very rare lathe! I made a vertical minilathe to make dropseals-almost finished ,will sent pics when it works. The tumbling glass lathe almost happened to me as well but i could just jump on the end in time to prevent it from toppling over. Dayum.... Hope nothing broke. Let me know if you need a sealing in pin-i can make it now almost exactly as in the philips drawings.
greetings jerome.
Somebody has the coolest water turn off valve of all. Literally a dungeon
Keep up the great work. A truly worthy project!
I felt that lathe hitting the floor.
That was painfull to watch for me ... Hope nothing has broken, buckled or otherwise damaged. This is rare equpment ...
The digits can only short where they cross. And at the point where they cross, you can't see that spot on the lower digit anyway. Would it work to paint an insulator material on those crossing points? Maybe some kind of ceramic slurry that will cure when the tube is baked?
It looks like your new lathe needed a good cleaning anyway, so maybe the accident was a blessing. My I suggest making the H tube digits more rigid by adding a small flange to the edges? I'm not sure how you would do this but it would make them a little stiffer. Another possibility would be to add a rib along the backside of the digits, if possible.
How do you manage are flow in those rooms? It looks like there is almost no ventilation. Also since many of the walls are concrete / stone, have you thought about an epoxy based coating instead? They form a very smooth and easy to clean surface. They are very popular in the USA for garage floors
Thanks for the video
Well done!
Sir, how old is the new building you are moving in to? Looks like it will make a great Nix factory!
I think there is another video on this channel with a full shop tour where he explains the history of the castle. He has been there for sometime if I recall, and has now expanded somewhat
7:40 Dumb question, but what if you were to have the digits cut with the thinnest possible pig tails in the critical areas, and then tie those pig tails to neutral posts at key points in the circumference where you find that multiple digits can gain from being supported from? This is a laser cut piece, so i expect that the width can be quite small, AND, because it's a so thin, you don't have to cut it in a straight line, thus making it difficult to cut from one sheet, rather you can have it cut in a spiral that's close and compact to he digit's body.
Assuming you have the right coating for that wire, you could block it out without much damage to the visual aspect.
Just a thought, likely not the right idea.
oh wow I was wondering why concrete kept falling out of the lathe until the end when I realized it was glass.
Yeah good call on that respirator haha.
14:05 Это фиаско, братан!
Love! love scien!
Is it possible to put a small dab of Glyptol on the backside of the element that is in front of the next element to keep them from touching? Or would the Glyptol be to heavy? Possibly even build a glued bridge between elements with the Glyptol? Possibly add a common tab on all elements, out of view and all bridged with Glyptol? That would eliminate the contact, but not sure how much added weight or how well the Glyptol adheres to the elements, or how durable that would be.
Thanks for the video ! I know it's time consuming to make them, but it is a real pleasure to see your progress !
As you have a thicker back cup, having thicker and more rigid digits would make the total too heavy or improper to neon plasma ?
Cheers!
Hi! I am also worried about having the stack too heavy - too much inertia/momentum to handle the shocks during transportation.. But we will see. More metal means more potential gas to come out of it during pumping/operation - we will see!
@@daliborfarny Ah yes, that perfectly make sense ! Thanks !
Your gigantic lab looks like some modern lab from a sci-fi movie.
Zdravím Dalibore, o5 paráda. Ale 14:14 trochu Pat a Mat ;-) jste hroznej kliďas, stát se to mě tak je tam moc moc dlouhé píííííííííííííííííííííííííííííííííííp :-D
Nebo autocenzura? :-) Držím palce a těším se na další videa.
Hi, is there a way to support numbers with insulated thin rods behind them, near the center, at different heights where they don't cross each others ?
Then you should be able to stick them with a thin and small amount of appropriate compound on the back.
With small holes at the right place on the back plate, you should be able to adjust the correct height while gluing the rod to the number then cutting it and fixing it to the rear of the back plate through the hole... Only an idea while watching your videos ^^
Regards...
Edit: Maybe no need to glue the rod on the numbers as your font has double lines, so a finishing rod head with a double T bar of the thickness of the number should do the trick... You can insert it in the length then rotate it to lock it between the 2 lines of your numbers... Maybe to try in your cad design...
Cheers.
could you make the kathodes pins spacing slightly smaller than the holes so it has some tension on them?
I'm getting a headache, when I see you struggle to get everything right, but it's a pioneers job you're doing here and that's often a bumpy road. The H-tube will give you a special place in Nixie tube history. When people want to learn about Nixies, they will end up with your endeavour and you will most likely inspire other people to invent other never-seen- before Nixie creations.
If your wife will ever complain about not spending enough time with her or the kids, then point this out to her and tell her she will be the wife of Dalibor Farny the Nixie Tube Creator. Everyone knows who Michelle Obama is after all 😁.
Keep the Nixies alive.
Thats the daily topic at home, I will try your argument next time, but I am not sure if it is going to work :-D The problem is not time with the family, but being focused on them when I am with them. Sad.. :-) But I am working on it!
So is this video about making nixe tubes or exploring exotic buildings?
...instead of making insulators thicker make digits thicker and insulator thinner. Just a slight change in metal thickness will potentially make them less flexible (or maybe change to harder matal alloy)...:/
I told you it’s not over
14:05 oh no....... nooo.... NOOOOOOOOO!!!
it looks a bit unstable, I hope it wouldn't tilt too much... oh
😩 Don't you have any colleagues around any more, to help you bringing the Lathe inside?
14:05 charlie chaplin enters the chat
Ouch
You need more more and better ventilation.
I cringed when the lath fell over!
14:30 faack