How to install PEI sheet without bubbles
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2024
- You can peel of the top protective layer at the very end of the process.
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Thanks for a very useful video. I hope you don't mind me telling you that the "paper roll" is what we call a "cardboard tube".
I recommend wet application, just like it’s done with window film or car wraps. Just add a few drops of baby shampoo into distilled water to cover the metal sheet. Now disperse the solution on the steel sheet and cover it well. U can then place the PEI sheet with the adhesive side right on the wet surface, push the bubbles out and position it perfectly. Then use a squeegee to push the remaining water out, and let it dry for a day.
It’s dead simple and works every time
Wait really?!?! This would be a god send if it works! The last time I replaced the pei sheet I got massive bubbles
Thank you for this, it’s so helpful!
Worked like a charm! Thanks!
I would highly recommend to coat BOTH sides of the steel sheet with the PEI Sheet, otherwise you can scratch the Printbed with it and open the contacts to the heated bed.
I didnt do that the right way and after the fourth print i (luckily) noticed that sparks occured between the holes, not nice to see Something like that :/
Luckily the opened contacts were near the edges and not that big so I sticked electrical isolating tape on them to fix it, but i think eventually i will get a new heated bed for safety reasons...
Yes! As I show it in this video you have to install both sides. This short circuit caused your error messages also?
@@Dombi3D Unfortunately not, but it seems like the Firmware works properly except the error message that showing up and because of that I am unable to switch languages.
What’s the advantage of putting PEI on both sides?
Really enjoy your video’s on the Fysetc clones. Keep them coming!
You can use both sides. And it protects the heated bed against direct metal connection also. Won't wear out so quickly its surface from the repeated changes.
There are minimum 3 videos planned with the clones (bearings, MMU2s, Mini). I am just dead slow with editing (I am a beginner on that area).
Thank you! 😊
any reason why you remove the protective sheet before squeezing out the remaining air?
The reason is that I thought first that what I see is between the protective layer and the PEI sheet. After I removed it realized that I am not finished yet and I have to give it a final squeeze with the roll. I tried to cut the video so that I left this action at the end but because of the bubbles would be questionable why is it so, so I left it in real time order. I wrote down in the description that you can left that layer on till you finished directly because of this :)
how about showing us how to remove the existing sheet without bending the crap out of the metal plate?
Put the plate in the freezer for a few minutes, it will pull off easily. The only hard part left is removing the adhesive, but not difficult if you put a paper towel on top and soak it with D-limonene for a few minutes, then with a plastic scraper scrape off the softened adhesive. May have to do that twice, then clean the plate with IPA.
If I have to change it I will record it and post here :)
What I would do is to heat up the plate to 210-220 °C in the oven and after that try to peel it off. The data sheet of the M3 glue that is mostly used by these sheets writes max temp. 204 °C so above that should loose its good sticking property.
@@Dombi3D Put in the freezer! Not the oven. When frozen it peels off very easily.
@@BatByke I will give it a try when comes the time :) Thanks for the tipp!