I think running is great! I was a runner before I was a climber, and I think it has definitely assisted me in my progress. That being said, I think any non-climbing sport will help you improve your fitness/goals.
For just specifically climbing (which could be done indoors and at low altitudes) running doesn't have much benefit outside of general fitness. But that general fitness and cardiovascular strength really comes into play when your up in the mountains.
All your videos are so informative and I find it extremely well explained. It has improved me immensely in a few months taking up climbing. Can't wait to see where I can go with following advice and learning from you and other top climbing CZcamsrs 👍 keep up the amazing work mate! (And anyone else involved in making your content)
I just found this channel and I have to say: your analytical approach to climbing & training for climbing in a holistic manner is awesome. I love this, as a huge science nerd and going through some intensive rehab phases after several surgeries to knee and hip Keep'em coming :-)
As a psychologist, I just want to remind everyone that training is great for your health and wellbeing. But remember to look for professional help if you do exercise that but still feel overly stressed, in burnout, some symptoms don't go away or you feel that your life has become overly limited becouse of your mental health. Love your channel ❤️️
Thanks for posting this. This is so important. You can't fix serious mental health problems with exercise only. Also you could run (no pun intended) into a addiction to the exercise and the positive effects will fade pretty fast.
@@theimpaler3338 It's disturbing that we're such a psychotherapist dependent society that we pretty much never see this comment in reverse. Something like "As a physiotherapist, I just want to remind everyone that talking to a psychotherapist can be great for your mental well being. But remember to look for professional help if you are seeing a therapist or psychiatrist but still feel overly stressed, in burnout, or if some symptoms just don't go away or you feel that your life has become overly limited because of your mental health." Of course physiotherapy can't cure all your problems, but study after study shows that it comes closer than psychotherapy. And don't assume that physiotherapists are just robots without empathy that don't also understand psychology. They do. They know what you're thinking when you say "I will never be able to move like that" or "That joint will never be the same". By teaching you not to think in defeated ways, they empower body AND mind. I got more and more depressed with psychotherapy and just recently put a HUGE dent in my depression with physiotherapy. Again, psychotherapy can be great for you. It is for a lot of people. But if just isn't working for you, get PROFESSIONAL help for your mental and physical well being! I recommend Dr. Jason Hooper :):):) And just to add, there is actually no delineation between mental and physical well being. It's just well being. You literally can't have well being if you don't embody it physically. Psychotherapists focus solely on the mind while your body may be neglected. Physiotherapists on the other hand can truly guide you to holistic well being, not just mental well being while your body (and therefore mind) degrades
Thanks for all the content ! I have taken on bouldering and climbing in general in my mid 30s, so its great to have guidance to improve while staying injury free.
When I started climbing I thought "no way can I keep doing this until I'm 60. I'll need to learn to golf!" Haha. Now I'm like 60? Heck, if I'm not climbing until 70+ something bad has happened 😉 Keep following along and staying patient and intelligent with your progress and you can keep it up for ages!
Glad I found this vid. I’ve decide that since I’m not previously a fit person in general, just running 5km in a moderate pace once a week is enough for me to complement my climbing and this vids sums it up nicely.
This video has just made me very pleased with myself, since I enjoy running and do it mostly for the mental benefits. And incidentally today I went bouldering at the gym and later on I went for my mild run, only 25 minutes. So I feel the video justified my whole trainning day (yeap I have time XD). Thanks for the awsome content.
I have come to climbing from running. I have trained for marathons for years and I started climbing to improve my core strength - which is also important for runners. But, after climbing for a couple of years, I have come to love the sport. For me, the biggest challenge as a runner, is that I have very poor hip and leg flexibility. It is less of a problem for runners, but very common. So, if a climber wants to train for marathon, they have to pay special attention that they don't lose flexibility.
I run every day, capped at 5k, including on the days I climbed. I found it perfect for warm up! The only difference is, on the day of no climbing I run as fast as I could (target speed); on the day of climbing, I run at more leisure pace, then stretch, then climb. Performance wise, running + stretch + climb better than stretch + climb, though the former will diminish endurance by 45 mins or so, meaning i can't climb 2 hours straight. But I nail higher level problem. So do your own trade-off
I also do running + stretch + climb plan as well. I initially started to run as a warm up just because my rock climbing gym was 1.5 miles away and I just lacked patience. On days that I run and rock climb I also make my pace slow as possible on purpose. On days where I have no rock climbing I increase my pace up a bit. I find that I have less overall endurance on the wall. However I feel like I need less on the wall warm up when I start with running personally.
@@aki42 I can resonate. I would either shorten my run (*usually on treadmill at the gym) or slow down by 10-15% speed wise. So I can preserve energy and stay on the wall longer :) One trick I found helpful to 'course correct' if I accidentally over did the cardio part - star with slap; take it slow. Then move onto overhang when I feel I am 'at peak'. The other thing I find helpful, not recommend for everyone, is fasting. I have been fasting over 8 yr by total accidence. When I started, I thought I would need more energy for climbing thus need to eat prior. But I did worse if I do eat. What I typically do nowadays is take supplement and black coffee then go strait climbing.
@@nomad_manhattan Yeah I would do your advice except my local gym doesn't have slab and it's mostly overhang lol. Happy that the fasting is working out well for you! Personally I need to gain more weight so that is still my goal for now.
@@aki42 I am in the same boat - I need to increase lean muscle. I am already lean for my age/gender; it is very hard for me to gain weight without increasing body fat %. Let me know if you figure out how ha
Great analysis, thanks for a great presentation (and amazing production quality!) I prefer hiking or swimming to running when I'm not climbing, I feel like I'm hitting that sweet spot of cardio but not too much cardio :)
Hiking is definitely hitting the sweet spot especially if there are some hills. And it gets you more efficient with those longer approaches. I also like swimming (surfing). I just make sure I'm still getting adequate rest so I don't surf/swim too often. Thanks for watching!
I recommend just walking as much as you can for your daily commute and when possible - run it too! It's a fantastic way to get around in the city and as you get better you don't even sweat much, so it's not an issue at all with your other activities. You actually save time that way instead of having to allocate additional time. And running doesn't require anything as equipment (in general), it is available all the time for you.
Unfortunately, the only benefit that running has that is SPECIFIC to running is the osteoperosis benefit. All other benefits can be found in other types of aerobic excercise.
I have found that running wind sprints is more effective for leaving one fit for steep approaches; for building leg power; and takes less time than running for a longer period of time and distance.
Potential upsides and downsides of running depend on a lot of individual factors, like training history, genetics, training goals, lifestyle, etc. Injury risk is important to consider, but certainly not the only variable. For some people, running will fit their goals well. For others, the downsides will not outweigh the upsides. Fatigue / recovery capacity is a major consideration if you're concerned with peak performance in a one sport (as opposed to taking a multi-disciplinary approach or one purely focused on general health and well-being). -Emile
Running Guideline #2: Mild to moderate running intensity has the greatest impact. Question: What exactly does this mean in terms of speed/time/distance/frequency for a run? I'm asking as someone who does running mainly for cardio fitness and would absolutely be keen on optimising for time efficiency/health benefit.
Rock climbers can definitely benefit from running. High altitudes can get you to have headaches and nausea, lung strengthening exercise is a must. Even a slower runs can help you to build aerobic capacity. I can also suggest doing high altitude training using straw or mask (not the elevation masks but the cotton masks). I also suggest doing rowing, battle ropes with towel, bear crawling, or doing burpees using single leg for other cardio alternative. I hope you find this helpful, safe climbing!
I was always wondering for running thanks ! It almost answer the question "Should climbers do another sport to improve?". I feel like doing another sport is an alternative to "just training" without climbing, it's more enjoyable to my opinion. I do prefer Yoga instead of stretches and I'm sure some sports are good for antagonist muscles even if it not the most time efficient.
Absolutely. Some of the aspects like the psychological, specificity, and time components can all be applied to your comment/question and even specifically to yoga. If doing yoga helps you mentally, and since it has some movements that can be applied and beneficial to climbing, then it may be a good use of your time and totally worth it.
Climbing definitely is exercise :) and definitely already has studies showing the positive effect it can have on our mental health. So yes! Climbing can also be a boost in our mental health, that doesn't mean it is the "only" boost. That's like saying I get happiness from drinking coffee, and it has caffeine that I desire, so I don't even need to drink Tea, even though it also has caffeine and also makes me happy. Can't you have both?! (maybe on separate days ;)) OK maybe not the greatest example but still, the point being that doing activities in general that make you happy are good for your mental health, and doing different activities can be beneficial! As mentioned in the video, there are even negative effects noted for only doing 1 activity/sport. It can become frustrating. It can be consuming. Also, you may get less pleasure out of the successes you typically experienced because you are only focused on 1 thing. That doesn't mean you have to, although, remember this is just the reasons for and against, you get to make the decision on if it's best for you. Good question!
I've been weight training for ~20 years and climbing on and off for like 15 years, but only running for 1, and I find running to be significantly better for mental health. Granted, nearly all of the climbing is bouldering.
for me running is a great core work out for good posture. If I'm just standing or walking, I can get away with a lazy, relaxed tummy. Sometimes I can even get away with it climbing. But the "bounciness" of running forces me not to slosh around my innards like a lazy bum and tighten up that transverse abdominis. But i don't run to warm up for climbing. I do high knees, which is basically running, but more climbing specific
That's a great reason, then! Movement always makes me feel better / more recovered compared to just sitting so that could be part of it. Also, exercise/jogging can suppress pain/discomfort signals so it's also possible it's just dampening the soreness you feel :)
cardio and running aren't synonyms; if we're talking cardio, I think I'd like HIIT with a focus on core or non climbing muscles, or something lower impact like an elliptical for example (bc I'm lazy and don't want to learn to run better). I originally liked climbing bc I wouldn't think about anything other than the next hold etc (power of now). Running or even hiking is a drag to me bc I think a ton doing those. HOWEVER if we're talking about ambulation/ running... my old partner and I used to jog 15 min as warm up to climb and then do some more at the end to help splay our feet after being in the shoes. Recently, I think my excuse is time :-P
Thanks for this informative and entertaining video! I love the "do what you like - but don't overdo" tip. Anyway, one tip remains unclear to me: "Run on the same day as your other training". Could you please specify on this (before/after, break in between, ...)? Greetings from Frankenjura!
Frankenjura! I have been to Germany a few times but when I was younger and didn't know about climbing. Would love to go back and climb there. But.... to your question ;) Yeah! One way to look at it is climbing, training, or any of your strength training in the AM and then if you want you would run in the PM. It's possible to do it at the end of your training, but I'm not as big of a fan of this. Make sure to eat and drink plenty of fluids with all this training so your body can make those good adaptations!
This may be a personal problem but i am a very skinny dude with huge thighs, like out of proportion huge. I have always felt limited when climbing overhang because the legs are just dragging me down. As much as I want to believe it I really don't think bouldering can be better at losing fats in my thigh area than running. Well I've never been a runner before but I think I'll have to give it a go for climbing sake.
So I watched peter McKinnon grow from when he had 35k followers to millions of subscribers...not sayin, just sayin, y'all got that charisma I felt from him! I hope this channel takes off for yall! 🤩 Amazing videos as always
I think climbers generally think that... Don't know, they are going to win money or some trophy for being a 7a climber, but I think they lose the best of climbing, just the joy. I trail run 2-3 per week like 10-20K each day and I also go 3 days to climb at the gym or outside and... I love both. The best climber is not the one that climbs more, is the one that really enjoy it
Really informative. Really enjoy your videos. Your informative videos with your references to study really gives confidence about what your talking about. Do you have any tips or vids about how to improve strength for people who can't really do more than 1 pull up? Or are there other trainings that can improve dynamic power, again for someone who is about 5'2 and can only do 1 pull up...? And is pull ups essential for strength?
Awesome! I'm glad someone see's the notes and all the research ;) We haven't done a video yet about increasing pull-up reps, but we can work on one! Pull-ups will be very helpful in this sport, but it isn't 100% early on. Work on your footwork and technique and your strength will build over time as well. But we can definitely work on that. Good idea!
I would need to see some papers which very specifically speak to the body's limited capacity to recover. Sure there has got to be some hard limit for anyone on how much recovery can happen per unit time, but like most biological processes I imagine that rate is not fixed and can be improved when demand for such activity increases. My intuition is just intuition, but I cant shake the feeling that a body (and lifestyle) which is well tuned for sustained activity and frequent recovery would have a better rate of recovery all around. I wouldn't mind a more specific video on this topic if you haven't already done one @Hooper's Beta
I am a bit confused about the pro and against arguments related to recovery. It seems to me that you're saying that running helps you recover faster from climbing, but at the same time if you're running the body has to use resources to 'fix your legs' and has less to 'fix your fingers'... So which one is it? And if it's both, does it even out somehow? - 1:50 cardiovascular training help you recover faster between and during climbs - 5:48 the body has only a certain capacity to heal and recover [...] if you're running on a rest day the body has to divide its resources [...] you're stealing time from climbing and giving it to running
I dee a marathon runner walk or job on days off. Wanna get fitter and better at climbing... well climb everyday. Days off ar walk day's do climb the most basic ladder climbs there's your blood flow for recovery. Wanna get fitter...climb those ladder climbs on a train day not rest day and do 20 climbs in a row. Or hike to your climbs or walk 10k's to your local climbing gym. If you don't get fitter and better I'll eat my words. Lol My knees are knackered the last thing I'll ever do is run, i need em to climb hahaha. Running for some is meditation or there release so if that's you keep running.
Hi thanks for the amazing channel with high production quality and a lot of relevant content! Is there a plan to discuss an injury characteristic for 3 finger drag when you curl your pinky in and overload lumbricals?
One of my theoretical arguments against running is the tightening I feel in my legs afterwards, reducing flexibility for climbing. Any thoughts on this argument?
I am a runner and a climber. In my experience the stiffness decreases as you condition yourself. But crucially you need to have a comprehensive stretching routine. This dramatically decreases stiffness and actually increases your range of motion. I no longer feel any stiffness after a runs ( I recover very quickly).
Since this is a similar question to another viewer I'm copying part of the answer here.... "...That's like saying I get happiness from drinking coffee, and it has caffeine that I desire, so I don't even need to drink Tea, even though it also has caffeine and also makes me happy. Can't you have both?! (maybe on separate days ;)) OK maybe not the greatest example but still, the point being that doing activities in general that make you happy are good for your mental health, and doing different activities can be beneficial! As mentioned in the video, there are even negative effects noted for only doing 1 activity/sport. It can become frustrating. It can be consuming. Also, you may get less pleasure out of the successes you typically experienced because you are only focused on 1 thing. That doesn't mean you have to, although, remember this is just the reasons for and against, you get to make the decision on if it's best for you."
I have a topic request! There are constant debates with relation to lifting heavy weights and size to strength ratio. Similar to the running topic, heavy weights provide pros and cons... i.e. mental benefits (pro), strength gains due to time under tension and heavy resistance (pro), becoming too beefy (con). But i've always wished to see a compilation of data and research that points to the amount of strength gained with each lb/kg of muscle gained. Do the strength benefits outweigh (no pun intended :)) the downside of becoming heavier? Of course, certain lifts and resistance movements are specific to climbing, and others may only benefit antagonist balance, but do others become counterproductive? Does squatting or deadlifting simply make your legs too big to be helpful? Or does that strength propel you upward with exponential power?? Always thought it would be cool to see a mathematical analysis of the data. Maybe? Thanks! I love y'all's content!
P.S. Also thought it would be cool to potentially highlight the benefits of training the larger muscle groups with weights. Climbing, alone, seems to trigger failure of the smaller muscles/tendons/extremities first (hands, forearms), and thus, you fall off- where as, with resistance training, you get the opportunity to put the larger muscles under tension for longer periods before failure.
This is actually a topic that we are currently developing a video for! It's in the early stages though so it may be a little bit, but definitely stay tuned!
As a kinesiologist, low intensity running, or cardiovascular activity will always be good to help your body recover from climbing, just don't burn yourself from running if you wanna make it the most efficient way. Love, all !
Since satellite cells are located between the sarcolemma and the basement membrane of the muscle fibres, I have doubts about them having to migrate "down into your legs" for tissue recovery. Are there other factors behind the recruitment of these cells?
Meh, I've not noticed a big impact on recovery the last while and I've been doing pretty intense calisthenics/climbing alongside marathon training (~60km per week).
Nice one! I run around 3 times a week on my lunchbreak, but not on climbing days. I climb in the afternoon/evening, around 1h climb + 1h resistance. Is it better for me to run at lunchtime on climb days than the day after? And do even more resistance or climbing the day after on my lunchbreak instead?
With the research about running and strength training I would say yes, it is better to combine them, but it is even slightly more beneficial to do the strength training first (which doesn't seem realistic with your schedule). make sure you are accounting for rest days as well. It sounds like you are climbing, training, and being very active on a lot of days. Also, if you're goal is getting better at climbing, you should be climbing more and doing less resistance training. It should be more like 75-80% climbing, 20-25% training.
There’s one simple truth... more running will burn more calories. Far more calories than the “afterburn effect” of a short weight training. More and harder running will burn even more calories. Additionally, not all climbers want more muscle mass to burn more calories. Even if you want to max out in one sport, you should absolutely do other activities to keep you healthy in the long run. It doesn’t have to be running, but it sure burns more calories than yoga. Even better would be running AND yoga ;-)
Do you have any recommendations for the skin on your fingertips? I've started going to the bouldering gym with 1 or 2 days rest between and specifically my fingertips are not liking it so much. Usually they're purple after the session, and especially if I slipped on a hold for example, have a mild burning pain.
It's important to pay attention to conditions. There are many factors that go into this. Are you naturally going through chalk more because your hands are sweatier? If so, climbing in warmer or more humid conditions will be hard on your skin. Vice versa, are you hands already dry, yet, you use an antidihedral because you don't know better and your skin is way too dry? Are you going to the gym when it's hot? Are you using the wrong type of lotion on your hands thinking it will help recover? Sorry I can't get too specific, because it will depend on each person. But hopefully those questions will help you think about what makes a difference for you.
Agreed that it should be based on what makes someone happy. In regard to the actual benefit towards climbing there’s basically 0. Check out tom Randall’s and Dave Macclouds thoughts on running!
What are your favorite sports/exercises to do BESIDES climbing? I wanna know!
Running, Mountainbiking, swimming (the latter beford Covid...)
skateboarding, rollerskating, mountain biking, surfing, :D
Running and Chess
mountain biking
Jiu jitsu!
I think running is great! I was a runner before I was a climber, and I think it has definitely assisted me in my progress. That being said, I think any non-climbing sport will help you improve your fitness/goals.
For the algorithm
Here here!
😘
For just specifically climbing (which could be done indoors and at low altitudes) running doesn't have much benefit outside of general fitness. But that general fitness and cardiovascular strength really comes into play when your up in the mountains.
True! I have lot's of hills around where I live and I occasionally run them specifically so hiking around Black Mountain isn't so exhausting :)
All your videos are so informative and I find it extremely well explained. It has improved me immensely in a few months taking up climbing. Can't wait to see where I can go with following advice and learning from you and other top climbing CZcamsrs 👍 keep up the amazing work mate! (And anyone else involved in making your content)
Thank you! Glad they’re helpful. :)
This is super informative and answers questions I've had for a long time. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
I just found this channel and I have to say: your analytical approach to climbing & training for climbing in a holistic manner is awesome. I love this, as a huge science nerd and going through some intensive rehab phases after several surgeries to knee and hip
Keep'em coming :-)
Welcome to the channel! Thanks for sharing your support :)
As a psychologist, I just want to remind everyone that training is great for your health and wellbeing. But remember to look for professional help if you do exercise that but still feel overly stressed, in burnout, some symptoms don't go away or you feel that your life has become overly limited becouse of your mental health.
Love your channel ❤️️
Thanks for posting this. This is so important. You can't fix serious mental health problems with exercise only. Also you could run (no pun intended) into a addiction to the exercise and the positive effects will fade pretty fast.
@@theimpaler3338 It's disturbing that we're such a psychotherapist dependent society that we pretty much never see this comment in reverse. Something like "As a physiotherapist, I just want to remind everyone that talking to a psychotherapist can be great for your mental well being. But remember to look for professional help if you are seeing a therapist or psychiatrist but still feel overly stressed, in burnout, or if some symptoms just don't go away or you feel that your life has become overly limited because of your mental health." Of course physiotherapy can't cure all your problems, but study after study shows that it comes closer than psychotherapy.
And don't assume that physiotherapists are just robots without empathy that don't also understand psychology. They do. They know what you're thinking when you say "I will never be able to move like that" or "That joint will never be the same". By teaching you not to think in defeated ways, they empower body AND mind. I got more and more depressed with psychotherapy and just recently put a HUGE dent in my depression with physiotherapy. Again, psychotherapy can be great for you. It is for a lot of people. But if just isn't working for you, get PROFESSIONAL help for your mental and physical well being! I recommend Dr. Jason Hooper :):):)
And just to add, there is actually no delineation between mental and physical well being. It's just well being. You literally can't have well being if you don't embody it physically. Psychotherapists focus solely on the mind while your body may be neglected. Physiotherapists on the other hand can truly guide you to holistic well being, not just mental well being while your body (and therefore mind) degrades
Thanks for all the content ! I have taken on bouldering and climbing in general in my mid 30s, so its great to have guidance to improve while staying injury free.
When I started climbing I thought "no way can I keep doing this until I'm 60. I'll need to learn to golf!" Haha. Now I'm like 60? Heck, if I'm not climbing until 70+ something bad has happened 😉
Keep following along and staying patient and intelligent with your progress and you can keep it up for ages!
Glad I found this vid. I’ve decide that since I’m not previously a fit person in general, just running 5km in a moderate pace once a week is enough for me to complement my climbing and this vids sums it up nicely.
This video has just made me very pleased with myself, since I enjoy running and do it mostly for the mental benefits. And incidentally today I went bouldering at the gym and later on I went for my mild run, only 25 minutes. So I feel the video justified my whole trainning day (yeap I have time XD). Thanks for the awsome content.
I have come to climbing from running. I have trained for marathons for years and I started climbing to improve my core strength - which is also important for runners. But, after climbing for a couple of years, I have come to love the sport.
For me, the biggest challenge as a runner, is that I have very poor hip and leg flexibility. It is less of a problem for runners, but very common. So, if a climber wants to train for marathon, they have to pay special attention that they don't lose flexibility.
This is exactly the information I've been looking for. Thank you!
I run every day, capped at 5k, including on the days I climbed. I found it perfect for warm up! The only difference is, on the day of no climbing I run as fast as I could (target speed); on the day of climbing, I run at more leisure pace, then stretch, then climb. Performance wise, running + stretch + climb better than stretch + climb, though the former will diminish endurance by 45 mins or so, meaning i can't climb 2 hours straight. But I nail higher level problem. So do your own trade-off
I also do running + stretch + climb plan as well. I initially started to run as a warm up just because my rock climbing gym was 1.5 miles away and I just lacked patience. On days that I run and rock climb I also make my pace slow as possible on purpose. On days where I have no rock climbing I increase my pace up a bit. I find that I have less overall endurance on the wall. However I feel like I need less on the wall warm up when I start with running personally.
@@aki42 I can resonate. I would either shorten my run (*usually on treadmill at the gym) or slow down by 10-15% speed wise.
So I can preserve energy and stay on the wall longer :)
One trick I found helpful to 'course correct' if I accidentally over did the cardio part - star with slap; take it slow. Then move onto overhang when I feel I am 'at peak'.
The other thing I find helpful, not recommend for everyone, is fasting. I have been fasting over 8 yr by total accidence. When I started, I thought I would need more energy for climbing thus need to eat prior. But I did worse if I do eat. What I typically do nowadays is take supplement and black coffee then go strait climbing.
@@nomad_manhattan Yeah I would do your advice except my local gym doesn't have slab and it's mostly overhang lol. Happy that the fasting is working out well for you! Personally I need to gain more weight so that is still my goal for now.
@@aki42 I am in the same boat - I need to increase lean muscle. I am already lean for my age/gender; it is very hard for me to gain weight without increasing body fat %. Let me know if you figure out how ha
Great analysis, thanks for a great presentation (and amazing production quality!)
I prefer hiking or swimming to running when I'm not climbing, I feel like I'm hitting that sweet spot of cardio but not too much cardio :)
Hiking is definitely hitting the sweet spot especially if there are some hills. And it gets you more efficient with those longer approaches. I also like swimming (surfing). I just make sure I'm still getting adequate rest so I don't surf/swim too often. Thanks for watching!
UNDERRATED CHANNEL YOOO
Very nice production and useful presentation of information. Feels like I’m actually watching something educational.
Love your videos, keep em up!
I recommend just walking as much as you can for your daily commute and when possible - run it too! It's a fantastic way to get around in the city and as you get better you don't even sweat much, so it's not an issue at all with your other activities. You actually save time that way instead of having to allocate additional time. And running doesn't require anything as equipment (in general), it is available all the time for you.
Definitely not a bad idea! Efficient means to get yourself moving a bit more without costing too much extra time :) Thanks for sharing.
Unfortunately, the only benefit that running has that is SPECIFIC to running is the osteoperosis benefit. All other benefits can be found in other types of aerobic excercise.
Cool man! I will maintain my longboard on the same days of climbing :) I'm always coming back to your videos, super informative as always.
Awesome :) Thanks for the support and feedback!
I feel smarter... and more Indiana Maveric Jones please :)
I’ve been binge watching your videos and it’s been awesome and informative. Thank you for taking so much time to make these videos!
Absolutely! Thank you for watching and commenting! Welcome to the HB Fam :)
Training for a marathon right now and found this while looking for climbing exercises on your channel
I have found that running wind sprints is more effective for leaving one fit for steep approaches; for building leg power; and takes less time than running for a longer period of time and distance.
I run, usually. I take a break and focus more on strength during the winter. Who wants to run in rainy weather anyways?
I really appreciate the effort that must go into this.
There's no real downside to running outside of injury risk. First benefits that come to mind is increased cardio capacity and reduced leg mass.
Potential upsides and downsides of running depend on a lot of individual factors, like training history, genetics, training goals, lifestyle, etc. Injury risk is important to consider, but certainly not the only variable. For some people, running will fit their goals well. For others, the downsides will not outweigh the upsides. Fatigue / recovery capacity is a major consideration if you're concerned with peak performance in a one sport (as opposed to taking a multi-disciplinary approach or one purely focused on general health and well-being).
-Emile
0:30 bruuuh i can’t with this humor looool 😂
Running Guideline #2: Mild to moderate running intensity has the greatest impact.
Question: What exactly does this mean in terms of speed/time/distance/frequency for a run?
I'm asking as someone who does running mainly for cardio fitness and would absolutely be keen on optimising for time efficiency/health benefit.
Rock climbers can definitely benefit from running. High altitudes can get you to have headaches and nausea, lung strengthening exercise is a must. Even a slower runs can help you to build aerobic capacity. I can also suggest doing high altitude training using straw or mask (not the elevation masks but the cotton masks). I also suggest doing rowing, battle ropes with towel, bear crawling, or doing burpees using single leg for other cardio alternative. I hope you find this helpful, safe climbing!
I was always wondering for running thanks ! It almost answer the question "Should climbers do another sport to improve?". I feel like doing another sport is an alternative to "just training" without climbing, it's more enjoyable to my opinion. I do prefer Yoga instead of stretches and I'm sure some sports are good for antagonist muscles even if it not the most time efficient.
Absolutely. Some of the aspects like the psychological, specificity, and time components can all be applied to your comment/question and even specifically to yoga. If doing yoga helps you mentally, and since it has some movements that can be applied and beneficial to climbing, then it may be a good use of your time and totally worth it.
Liking your videos. Hope you keep making them.
Injured my TFCC so I’m definitely gonna take up running to bide my time until I reciver
Enjoy your runs!
Loving the videos Hooper
Yeah the final takeaway is the answer I expected. Except I run long distances because I like it
On the points about mental health, is climbing not already exercise? So shouldn’t those benefits already be gained by climbing often?
Climbing definitely is exercise :) and definitely already has studies showing the positive effect it can have on our mental health. So yes! Climbing can also be a boost in our mental health, that doesn't mean it is the "only" boost. That's like saying I get happiness from drinking coffee, and it has caffeine that I desire, so I don't even need to drink Tea, even though it also has caffeine and also makes me happy. Can't you have both?! (maybe on separate days ;)) OK maybe not the greatest example but still, the point being that doing activities in general that make you happy are good for your mental health, and doing different activities can be beneficial! As mentioned in the video, there are even negative effects noted for only doing 1 activity/sport. It can become frustrating. It can be consuming. Also, you may get less pleasure out of the successes you typically experienced because you are only focused on 1 thing. That doesn't mean you have to, although, remember this is just the reasons for and against, you get to make the decision on if it's best for you. Good question!
I've been weight training for ~20 years and climbing on and off for like 15 years, but only running for 1, and I find running to be significantly better for mental health. Granted, nearly all of the climbing is bouldering.
for me running is a great core work out for good posture. If I'm just standing or walking, I can get away with a lazy, relaxed tummy. Sometimes I can even get away with it climbing. But the "bounciness" of running forces me not to slosh around my innards like a lazy bum and tighten up that transverse abdominis. But i don't run to warm up for climbing. I do high knees, which is basically running, but more climbing specific
I run to be fit for the loooong ascents when climbing in the mountains
Awesome video 🤘🏽
Running definitely increases my hamstring and Achilles stiffness.
I think VO2 max is probably very underrated amongst casual climbers.
I don't know I have the feeling it helps me recovering 💟🌌☮️
That's a great reason, then! Movement always makes me feel better / more recovered compared to just sitting so that could be part of it. Also, exercise/jogging can suppress pain/discomfort signals so it's also possible it's just dampening the soreness you feel :)
My favorite option instead of running is hiking to the crag, and if not that a bit of mountain biking is great.
Haha yes! The main hiking I enjoy is hiking to the crag :)
Thank you!
cardio and running aren't synonyms; if we're talking cardio, I think I'd like HIIT with a focus on core or non climbing muscles, or something lower impact like an elliptical for example (bc I'm lazy and don't want to learn to run better). I originally liked climbing bc I wouldn't think about anything other than the next hold etc (power of now). Running or even hiking is a drag to me bc I think a ton doing those. HOWEVER if we're talking about ambulation/ running... my old partner and I used to jog 15 min as warm up to climb and then do some more at the end to help splay our feet after being in the shoes. Recently, I think my excuse is time :-P
Thanks for this informative and entertaining video! I love the "do what you like - but don't overdo" tip.
Anyway, one tip remains unclear to me: "Run on the same day as your other training". Could you please specify on this (before/after, break in between, ...)?
Greetings from Frankenjura!
Frankenjura! I have been to Germany a few times but when I was younger and didn't know about climbing. Would love to go back and climb there.
But.... to your question ;)
Yeah! One way to look at it is climbing, training, or any of your strength training in the AM and then if you want you would run in the PM. It's possible to do it at the end of your training, but I'm not as big of a fan of this. Make sure to eat and drink plenty of fluids with all this training so your body can make those good adaptations!
Great work thank you
I'm forced to give it a thumb up. G*d d*** good content 😱
This may be a personal problem but i am a very skinny dude with huge thighs, like out of proportion huge. I have always felt limited when climbing overhang because the legs are just dragging me down. As much as I want to believe it I really don't think bouldering can be better at losing fats in my thigh area than running. Well I've never been a runner before but I think I'll have to give it a go for climbing sake.
So I watched peter McKinnon grow from when he had 35k followers to millions of subscribers...not sayin, just sayin, y'all got that charisma I felt from him! I hope this channel takes off for yall! 🤩 Amazing videos as always
Hah thank you! We appreciate the support 👍👍
I think climbers generally think that... Don't know, they are going to win money or some trophy for being a 7a climber, but I think they lose the best of climbing, just the joy.
I trail run 2-3 per week like 10-20K each day and I also go 3 days to climb at the gym or outside and... I love both.
The best climber is not the one that climbs more, is the one that really enjoy it
Really informative. Really enjoy your videos. Your informative videos with your references to study really gives confidence about what your talking about. Do you have any tips or vids about how to improve strength for people who can't really do more than 1 pull up? Or are there other trainings that can improve dynamic power, again for someone who is about 5'2 and can only do 1 pull up...? And is pull ups essential for strength?
Awesome! I'm glad someone see's the notes and all the research ;)
We haven't done a video yet about increasing pull-up reps, but we can work on one! Pull-ups will be very helpful in this sport, but it isn't 100% early on. Work on your footwork and technique and your strength will build over time as well. But we can definitely work on that. Good idea!
Super sweet vid.
I would need to see some papers which very specifically speak to the body's limited capacity to recover. Sure there has got to be some hard limit for anyone on how much recovery can happen per unit time, but like most biological processes I imagine that rate is not fixed and can be improved when demand for such activity increases. My intuition is just intuition, but I cant shake the feeling that a body (and lifestyle) which is well tuned for sustained activity and frequent recovery would have a better rate of recovery all around. I wouldn't mind a more specific video on this topic if you haven't already done one @Hooper's Beta
I am a bit confused about the pro and against arguments related to recovery. It seems to me that you're saying that running helps you recover faster from climbing, but at the same time if you're running the body has to use resources to 'fix your legs' and has less to 'fix your fingers'... So which one is it? And if it's both, does it even out somehow?
- 1:50 cardiovascular training help you recover faster between and during climbs
- 5:48 the body has only a certain capacity to heal and recover [...] if you're running on a rest day the body has to divide its resources [...] you're stealing time from climbing and giving it to running
I dee a marathon runner walk or job on days off.
Wanna get fitter and better at climbing... well climb everyday.
Days off ar walk day's do climb the most basic ladder climbs there's your blood flow for recovery.
Wanna get fitter...climb those ladder climbs on a train day not rest day and do 20 climbs in a row.
Or hike to your climbs or walk 10k's to your local climbing gym.
If you don't get fitter and better I'll eat my words. Lol
My knees are knackered the last thing I'll ever do is run, i need em to climb hahaha.
Running for some is meditation or there release so if that's you keep running.
Why run "later in the (same) day"?
Why not run before climbing instead? It's a great way to warm up..
Hi thanks for the amazing channel with high production quality and a lot of relevant content! Is there a plan to discuss an injury characteristic for 3 finger drag when you curl your pinky in and overload lumbricals?
Great stuff
you sayd about running moderately after climbing/training. in the morning before training is it good too?
One of my theoretical arguments against running is the tightening I feel in my legs afterwards, reducing flexibility for climbing. Any thoughts on this argument?
I am a runner and a climber. In my experience the stiffness decreases as you condition yourself. But crucially you need to have a comprehensive stretching routine. This dramatically decreases stiffness and actually increases your range of motion. I no longer feel any stiffness after a runs ( I recover very quickly).
Great video
But what if you're into alpine climbing and need added leg and cardio endurance strength for scaling those mountains?
We’re mostly focused on bouldering on this channel. Alpine climbing is a very different sport :)
Most of the mentioned pro arguments apply to exercise in general. So shouldn't they also come into effect just by climbing?
Since this is a similar question to another viewer I'm copying part of the answer here....
"...That's like saying I get happiness from drinking coffee, and it has caffeine that I desire, so I don't even need to drink Tea, even though it also has caffeine and also makes me happy. Can't you have both?! (maybe on separate days ;)) OK maybe not the greatest example but still, the point being that doing activities in general that make you happy are good for your mental health, and doing different activities can be beneficial! As mentioned in the video, there are even negative effects noted for only doing 1 activity/sport. It can become frustrating. It can be consuming. Also, you may get less pleasure out of the successes you typically experienced because you are only focused on 1 thing. That doesn't mean you have to, although, remember this is just the reasons for and against, you get to make the decision on if it's best for you."
I have a topic request! There are constant debates with relation to lifting heavy weights and size to strength ratio. Similar to the running topic, heavy weights provide pros and cons... i.e. mental benefits (pro), strength gains due to time under tension and heavy resistance (pro), becoming too beefy (con). But i've always wished to see a compilation of data and research that points to the amount of strength gained with each lb/kg of muscle gained. Do the strength benefits outweigh (no pun intended :)) the downside of becoming heavier? Of course, certain lifts and resistance movements are specific to climbing, and others may only benefit antagonist balance, but do others become counterproductive? Does squatting or deadlifting simply make your legs too big to be helpful? Or does that strength propel you upward with exponential power?? Always thought it would be cool to see a mathematical analysis of the data. Maybe? Thanks! I love y'all's content!
P.S. Also thought it would be cool to potentially highlight the benefits of training the larger muscle groups with weights. Climbing, alone, seems to trigger failure of the smaller muscles/tendons/extremities first (hands, forearms), and thus, you fall off- where as, with resistance training, you get the opportunity to put the larger muscles under tension for longer periods before failure.
This is actually a topic that we are currently developing a video for! It's in the early stages though so it may be a little bit, but definitely stay tuned!
@@HoopersBeta Hell yea, I'm psyched!!!
As a kinesiologist, low intensity running, or cardiovascular activity will always be good to help your body recover from climbing, just don't burn yourself from running if you wanna make it the most efficient way. Love, all !
Ok but what cardio such as cycling?
Since satellite cells are located between the sarcolemma and the basement membrane of the muscle fibres, I have doubts about them having to migrate "down into your legs" for tissue recovery. Are there other factors behind the recruitment of these cells?
What is a better way to do cardio? Is on the wall HIIT an option ??
Meh, I've not noticed a big impact on recovery the last while and I've been doing pretty intense calisthenics/climbing alongside marathon training (~60km per week).
Question - why do you suggest running after climbing or resistance training and not before? Also, why only 75% of your MHR?
Nice one! I run around 3 times a week on my lunchbreak, but not on climbing days. I climb in the afternoon/evening, around 1h climb + 1h resistance. Is it better for me to run at lunchtime on climb days than the day after? And do even more resistance or climbing the day after on my lunchbreak instead?
With the research about running and strength training I would say yes, it is better to combine them, but it is even slightly more beneficial to do the strength training first (which doesn't seem realistic with your schedule). make sure you are accounting for rest days as well. It sounds like you are climbing, training, and being very active on a lot of days. Also, if you're goal is getting better at climbing, you should be climbing more and doing less resistance training. It should be more like 75-80% climbing, 20-25% training.
What about swimming?
climb, run (not much) repeat
Hah :) I like your recipe!
8:36 = tru answer
Split-boarding / backpacking, peak-bagging.
There’s one simple truth... more running will burn more calories. Far more calories than the “afterburn effect” of a short weight training. More and harder running will burn even more calories. Additionally, not all climbers want more muscle mass to burn more calories. Even if you want to max out in one sport, you should absolutely do other activities to keep you healthy in the long run. It doesn’t have to be running, but it sure burns more calories than yoga. Even better would be running AND yoga ;-)
Do you have any recommendations for the skin on your fingertips? I've started going to the bouldering gym with 1 or 2 days rest between and specifically my fingertips are not liking it so much. Usually they're purple after the session, and especially if I slipped on a hold for example, have a mild burning pain.
It's important to pay attention to conditions. There are many factors that go into this. Are you naturally going through chalk more because your hands are sweatier? If so, climbing in warmer or more humid conditions will be hard on your skin. Vice versa, are you hands already dry, yet, you use an antidihedral because you don't know better and your skin is way too dry? Are you going to the gym when it's hot? Are you using the wrong type of lotion on your hands thinking it will help recover? Sorry I can't get too specific, because it will depend on each person. But hopefully those questions will help you think about what makes a difference for you.
How fast does your hair grow?! This as been posted a year ago?
Must be all the Huel 😆
"running... it's like walking, but worse"
Facts
Running on your off climbing days is better than climbing. You can't just climb 7 days a week.
Agreed that it should be based on what makes someone happy. In regard to the actual benefit towards climbing there’s basically 0. Check out tom Randall’s and Dave Macclouds thoughts on running!
"friends" *shows alex honnold* LOL wtf
😆
Are you a runner, Dr.Hooper?
I use to run more! But it's at the bottom of my training pyramid now so only if I have excess time (which is hardly ever).
life's too short for one sport
🔥
I think humans should run🤷♂️
Algoritimico
I guess cardio IS killing our gains
Jeff Cavaliere strikes again xD
For the algorythm
🏃🏻🏋🏽♀️
LMAO @ Santee boulders 🤮🤮
Hahahaha