How to Grind a Scythe Blade With a Drill
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- čas přidán 24. 04. 2018
- Using one of our specially formulated cool-cutting grinding points to grind an American scythe blade. WE DO NOT RECOMMEND using a grinding point from the hardware store or a random online seller, as most grinding points are too hard and will generate too much heat for the thin edge.
BYXCO Grinding Points for American Scythes: byxco.com/prod... - Zábava
Great idea! Quick question, have you ever found a video of actual gang mowing (multiple persons mowing hay with american pattern scythes) ? Ive read a few accounts on how they would stagger in a diagonal formation, but Id love to SEE it...
I've found some footage on stock/archival film websites, and there are multiple depictions in art, such as N. C. Wyeth's "The Scythers". The best mower stands at the head of the line, with the next best behind him, and the next behind him, and so on.
Thats great, Ill look up that art, do you have a link for the stock films?
Not off the top of my head, no. Just go on stock film sites and browse for "scythe" "sickle" (because they sometimes mislabel the tool) or "grain cradle" and you can find a few clips. They're not great ones, but it's better than nothing. :)
Here's a modern team in the UK:
www.talkinggrass.co.uk/2013/08/01/traditional-haymaking-hard-work-good-soul/
@@FortyTwoBlades That is a great link that talks about being in "the groove" or "the zone" when doing something physical and repetitive like scything.
I have an old Craftsman blade, about 20 inches long, rusted and abused, that I'd like to make serviceable again. There's a slight bend in the spine, as if someone stepped on the back of the blade. Can I safely just bend it back? I hope I can save this scythe, because using the weed whip is too hard on my arms, and I really want to switch over to the scythe.
If the bend is only gradual it may be there on purpose. There is often a gradual "smile" to the blade along its length, which is known as the "crown" of the blade. If it appears not to be deliberate, however, it can be hammered out against an anvil surface with controlled blows along the spine.
Definitely a frown, not a smile. When I rest the heel end of the blade flat, the toe digs into the ground. It's only slight, and the bend is sharp and local, and it seems like some gentle coaxing with a hammer will get it to come back up, but I feel better to get your blessing on it! I just finished lifting the tang, as per your video on the subject, too. It had been at factory default. Makes me wonder why would someone pay good money for such a specialized piece of equipment, and never set it up and use it.
Can you briefly explain (or link me to a good explaination) of why american scythes get beveled on both sides vs european scythes getting beveled on one? And what the difference/advantage one style has over the other? I just picked up an old but in good shape seymore no. 55 and need to sharpen it but i've been told that eventhough its american, it should be peened and sharpened on one side. But from this channel and other sources, it seems like that isnt the case. I want it to be sharpened to mow my lawn, if that helps. Help please! Thanks
Absolutely do not peen it--whoever gave you that advice clearly doesn't know what they're talking about.
The reason why American blades are ground on both sides stems mostly from the fact that many historic blades were laminated, with high carbon edge steel between layers of soft supporting iron. Peening such a blade would cause your edge to be comprised of the cladding iron instead of the hard steel core. American blades are also harder than Euro blades by a significant margin, and between this and being a little thicker (rigidity increases cubically with thickness) you run a much greater risk of cracking the blade even if your blade is whole steel rather than laminated. There is simply no need for it and it poses a multitude of risks. Whole steel blades should still be treated as if they were laminated simply because there is no disadvantage to doing so, and it sets you up with good habits should you come into possession of a laminated blade.
Having the bevel on both sides makes it easier to control/remove any burr that develops during grinding or honing, and the web of the blade (span between the edge and spine) being flat means that the change in edge presentation as the blade wears from repeated honing is minimized compared to the dished form of Euro blades.
Awesome, thank you so much for the reply! I'll bevel on both sides like you recommend.
@@FortyTwoBlades As always, thank you for taking the time to give a detailed answer.
How sharp did it get?
This stage of sharpening is just beveling, rather than honing. The bevel has been ground appropriately thin at this stage, and then the edge would be deburred by running it through the end grain of a piece of scrap wood and it would be honed. :)
works
Not sure what Apex means what does it mean to have it centered
The apex of the edge is where the bevels meet to create the edge itself. It's important for it to be centered in the blade's thickness, as many antique blades are laminated construction, being made of a layer of high carbon edge steel between layers of soft iron cladding. If your edge is ground lopsided on such a blade it will result in your edge being made of iron instead of steel. It's best to treat all blades as if they are laminated, as there is no drawback to doing so on blades made entirely of steel, and so then if you end up owning a laminated blade you are already well-versed in taking good care of it.
@@FortyTwoBlades thanks for the reply I believe I understand now