Lower The Armhole to Smooth This Wrinkle
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- čas přidán 21. 07. 2024
- Today during Fit Tip Tuesday I'm answering a subscriber's question about a wrinkle we've discussed before! These pesky wrinkles that poke out from under your arm may be caused by not having enough room in your bust. If you've already tried adjusting your bust dart or the fullness in the pattern and the wrinkles didn't go away, maybe it's your armhole. I'll show you before and after photos of a knit top and how lowering the base of the armhole smoothed the wrinkles.
00:00 Intro
01:48 How to Lower the Front Armhole (without lowering the entire front)
04:36 How to Lower the Back Armhole (and the entire back )
07:03 How to Adjust the Sleeve Cap to Agree with the longer armhole
09:45 Photo of Knit Top using adjusted pattern pieces to smooth wrinkles
10:47 No Fab Fit Friday this week... See the classes I'm teaching
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I see this on so many independent pattern companies garments. So very happy to know how to fix it.
Thanks Kay!!
I've been searching for the understand of this wrinkle. Between this video and the one of yours from 2 years ago I got it. Thank you for the information. I really learn a lot from you.
You are so welcome! I'm happy to hear that this helps you.. Thanks for watching
Thank you so much for this information-so useful
Glad it was helpful!
Loved the tips!
That skirt is amazing!! 😍
Thank you! and thanks for watching!
Thank you - very informative!
You are welcome!
Brilliant clear and straightforward teaching. THANK YOU!
Thanks so much... and thank you for fitting along with me
Thank you, thank you. See this on so many patterns. So good to know how to fix it.
Thanks for your help with this too!
Thank you Jennifer for this fabulous adjustment and comprehensive explanation of how to slash and spread to fix! I definitely needed this video.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for fitting along with me!
Thanks for a clear demonstration of how to lower the arm hole
My Pleasure, Thanks for fitting along with me
Many thanks! This is a wonderful video and easy to understand, but most importantly exactly what I was looking for online.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching :)
I am a difficult learner for alternation concepts. But the method you show here - along with verbal instructions = GREAT for me. Thank you.
I'm so happy this helps you! Thank you for fitting along with me
Thank you! I just now found this video. I get this problem on all my tops and had resigned myself to just living with it!!
Happy you found me & Hope this helps!! Keep me posted on how it works out
So very easy! Thank-you. I just noticed these wrinkles on a knit top I made recently and wondered what caused them.
You are so welcome! Thank you for fitting along with me
Love learning to read the Wrinkles. It gets us Sewists as close to plastic surgeons as we can get!
SMOOTH THAT WRINKLE!
Obscure explanation
@@sanamoubarak9966 Sana, what part of J's lesson didn't you understand?
Obscure; "obscure ( əbˈskjʊə) adj 1. unclear or abstruse 2. indistinct, vague, or indefinite 3. inconspicuous or unimportant 4. hidden, secret, or remote"
:) I love that!
...Can you tell me where I need to clarify?
I love your videos. I’m wondering if there are alterations that can be made to ready to wear or previously sewn garments? I’m full busted. Thanks!
I feel your fitting challenge (I'm full busted too). You can lower the armhole a little bit ... take off the sleeve, scoop the base of the armhole a little bit (about 1/2") This will lengthen the armhole a little bit. To "add length" to the sleeve cap to make it fit.... Trim 1/4" off the armhole edge, then sew the sleeve back on using a 1/4" seam allowance. (Trimming the inside curve of the armhole will shorten it slightly and sewing 1/4" closer to the edge of the sleeve cap will length it slightly) Hope this helps!
I will watch this right away. I have seen this wrinkle on some clothes. Also the tees I buy are a little large. I think the shoulder seem needs to move a little towards my neck. The short sleeve opening is so large it is not modest. I am so grateful for your teaching fitting. I have not sewn garments since I needed to fit the pattern.
:) Happy to help! You can take in your armhole a little bit by taking in the side and underarm seam. Thanks for fitting along with me
Thanks for this Jen always enjoy your video so much! The upward slant of the shoulder that was created with this modification seems like it would negate my forward pitched shoulder in the front. I’m guessing this would take a muslin to see if I would need to drop the shoulder tip back down, or could I just straighten out the line at the top rather than meeting the old neck point with the new shoulder seam point?
If you needed a little more length in the armhole, I think your shoulder will take that up vertically, and the position of the shoulder seam should stay the same... But, the good news is... If you need to bring it back down, you can trim the fabric at the shoulder after you try it on.
You rock girl😍
Thanks Peggie! and Thank you for watching!
Hello - I just discovered your video after an armhole lowering disaster in which I made my slash all the way across the front into the v neck, not thinking about the fact that it added to the neckline circumference, which made trying to attach the (knit) neckband a disaster. So I see how now how to avoid that with your method. But, I also need to do a forward shoulder adjustment, so how do I do that if we need to true up the shoulder after lowering the armhole? Thanks! Love your videos - your really know how to simplify explanations!
So happy you discovered me... Welcome to my Channel! You can lower the armhole and adjust the sleeve cap first. This lengthens the front/back armhole and cap. Then after you true up the pieces do the forward shoulder adjustment... which shortens the front and lengthens the back... Here's the tutorial for forward shoulder czcams.com/video/hxqKxGHPCUM/video.html and the follow up tutorial showing how to adjust the sleeve cap czcams.com/users/liveZYC27WEVEOk Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
Thank you!
Great video - thanks as always. What do you think about a wrinkle above the bottom of the armhole, a third of the way up to the shoulder. Is that an FBA issue?
Yes!! If the wrinkles are not coming from the base of the armhole and side seam and it looks like you want to pinch a dart from the armhole, this is a classic indicator that you need a FBA :)
Thank you for the clear demo of the bust adjustment but will a fitted bodice be longer and need adjustment?
If you needed the bust adjustment, your body will need the extra vertical length to get over your curves.. so the hem will not be affected. If you notice that the hem dips down after, you can trim off the excess vertical length at the hem.. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thanks so much for this helpful video.
I have a question. If I have a T-shirt fitting good everywhere but under the arm like this.
Could I remove a half inch from the side seam under the arm?
Only because I’ve already made a drop shoulder adjustment.
Thanks again
That's a great question! Check out this week's Fit Tip Tuesday Video for a Tutorial showing how to adjust the armhole without changing the shoulder.
Thank you so much for this. Your videos are always so clear! Now how would I do this on a raglan? 🤔
Thanks so much... and that's an excellent topic (I haven't done a tutorial for that yet) Stay tuned, It's on my list of upcoming tutorials... Thanks for watching
@@JSternDesigns Thanks…I tried this method on a raglan yesterday without adjusting the (nonexistent) shoulder. I just made the arm space larger and lowered the bust point on the bodice. It worked pretty well! I look forward to more of your videos.
Thank you for your tutorials. Do you have any other video on how to do this adjustment but in a raglan top?
That's interesting, can you send me a photo of what your raglan looks like so I can see the wrinkles? jsterndesigns37@gmail.com Then I can make suggestions to fix it... Thanks for watching
@@JSternDesigns Thank you. I will do that.
Thank you Jen. Does this apply to knits and woven fabrics?
Yes, you can use this technique to remove wrinkles on woven fabric tops too
Thank you for the lovely video. A quick question. What would have happened if we had lowered the armhole at the base of it instead? Basically shortening the side seams. I am curious as if it would also fix the problem or perhaps create a new one
That's a great question... You can lower the base of the armhole instead! ... I love it that there are so many ways to achieve the same result. Draw a rectangle around the base of the armhole that encompasses the armhole notch and a little bit of the side seam. Cut the rectangle out and slide the base of the armhole down the amount you need. (Repeat for the other armhole) and than make a like adjustment to the sleeve cap! Thanks for fitting along with me
@@JSternDesigns thank you so much you do such amazing work teaching people what is often quite complex and not as obvious as someone might think
Hi,do you have any self bodice block drafting videos?
:) I have a series showing how to drape the pieces for a sloper... But I haven't done a bodice draft yet. I'm puttin git on my short list of upcoming tutorials! Stay Tuned!
How do you fix that issue on a garment that's already made?thank you for the information, have a great day.
If you're working with a constructed top, you can try taking up the shoulder seam at the armhole... and trimming the base of the armhole a like amount to lower the armhole without changing the length of it. It's a little tricky because the sleeve needs to sew back into the armhole, so you're a little limited to the amount you can adjust. Hope this helps!
@@JSternDesigns It certainly helped, thank you very much, have a great evening.
Just wondering - how can you tell if the wrinkle is because of the armhole or not enough room for the bust. If you have already explained all that previously I apologise.
If you need more bust room, it's likely that you'll see stress wrinkles spanning across your bust from apex to apex in addition to these wrinkles under the arm. You can also measure across your pattern at the full bust level. Then compare the pattern measurements to your full bust measurement. Find the difference between these measurements and then check how much stretch your fabric has. Stretch a 10" section of your knit fabric. See how far you can stretch it past 10". This will tell you how much your fabric will stretch around your bust. So for example, if your pattern measures 40" at full bust & your full bust is 44"... there is 4" of negative ease (The pattern is 4" smaller than you). If your fabric stretches 2" for every 10" you have 8" of stretch ease around the full bust. This should be enough room for your bust. If your fabric doesn't stretch as much or if there is more negative ease, you may need more room. Keep in mind that you also need to check to make sure the fullness in the pattern is positioned where your fullness is. Lowering the armhole by slashing through the armhole and CF edge will also lower the fullness which can help if your apex is lower than the fullness in the pattern. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Seems like that could change the shoulder slope quite a bit.
Yes, this method does change the slope of the shoulder some. I'm going to make some samples to see the actual impact of the slope by making this adjustment and I'll share it in an upcoming tutorial... The edges of the shoulder are adjusted when you adjust for a slope of shoulder issue... but it also depends on the shape of the fabric that wraps around the back of the neck when the shoulder seam is sewn. Check this out... czcams.com/video/-v0g7_WXPFQ/video.html In this specific example, this adjustment worked to fix the issue, stay tuned for more!! Thanks for checking in
I am long in the torso. From shoulder to underarm to bust apex, then from waist to full hip. Will this adjustment help to relieve "armpit wedgie" and tight upper arm just below the shoulder where everything else seems to be fitting?
Yes, I think I would slash all the way across the pattern from the armhole through the CF to lower the armhole and the fullness of the pattern (instead of just lowering the armhole and truing up the shoulder edge).
By enlarging the armhole, you're adding length to the shoulder seam, right? Is there a way to do this (like pivoting something somewhere) so as to retain the shoulder seam length and angle?
In this tutorial I slashed and spread the armhole to length it (within the armhole)... The shoulder seam length was not affected. Thanks for fitting along with me
Can you tell me if I should do this adjustment on a bodice that looks like that fold when the skeeve is sewn in, but before the sleeve is in it looks like extra fabric higher up on the armhole. Like I should be sewing a dart out of my armscye. Then I sew the sleeve in and it presents as a fold coming from the lower armhole.
There can be a little extra ease at the armhole before the sleeve is sewn in... but if it creates a pleat... Check to see how the fabric is fitting over the bust. If it looks snug, the "excess" fabric in the armhole can be there because you need a full bust adjustment. Here's a tutorial for that czcams.com/video/Tu8fwT5LUsI/video.html It could also be the slope of the shoulder, Try picking up the front shoulder seam to see if it picks up the excess. If you have to adjust the shoulder seam, be sure to make a like adjustment to remove the extra ease in the sleeve cap. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
Hi, how could you do this an alteration to a Tshirt rather than pattern please?
That's a good topic... Stay tuned! ...and thanks for fitting along with me
What about the shoulder slant? You came across but now there is no slant. Any additional adjustment needed at the shoulder?
The shoulder seam is a “style line”. If your body shape needs that extra length at the top of the shoulder, it will take it up. If you don’t need it, the tip of the shoulder will stick up (indicating that you don’t need to add that length).
If I needed more armhole length, but not length in the entire bodice, would I take out the amount I added to the armhole from lower in the bodice?
Yes, that's a good point, if you just need a deeper armhole, you can scoop the base of the armhole... Walk the cap along the armhole to see if you need to adjust the cap too. (I will be showing how to do that during Fit Tip Tuesday this week!). Thanks for fitting along with me
I have issues altering my blouse armholes…cud I somehow get in contact with u so I can show u a picture please…thank you.
Ok maybe I’ll try to explain a bit. I have wrinkles between armhole and shoulder…I’m not sure if I should remove fabric or add or rather just adjust the slope of the armhole…If that makes sense.. how do u clean up access fabric and/or wrinkles above the bust on the arm hole line? Thank you.
You can send me photos at jsterndesigns37@gmail.com so I can see what's going on. Also, I did a new series that helps you fit your bodice from the top at the shouders, back neckline and chest down to the hem. Here's a link to Part 1: czcams.com/video/gNsFm8t_F8o/video.html Thanks for fitting along with me
I made this mistake on the original fabric and I don't know how to fix it?
Did you make your armhole too low on your garment? If so, you can try picking it up at the shoulder seam... Hope this helps
@@JSternDesigns thank you, I will definitely try this, if it's works I will tell you the results
Haven’t you increased the armhole measurement by 3/4”, not just 3/8”?
Yes. She said that at 6:45.
@@jimkoss3318 so I guess the same amount is added to the sleeve, it is just accomplished with a single 3/8” “addition”. I’m terrible at visualizing these things….
I had to think my way around this too. Essentially by lengthening the cap all the way across by 3/8” she is adding 3/8” to the front and 3/8” to the back (sleeve cap) . Added together makes up the 3/4”. (6/8”)
Yes :) When you slash across the sleeve cap and spread it 3/8" you're adding 3/8" x 2 (along the front and back curves) = 3/4" (sorry for the confusion!)
@@JSternDesigns it was MY confusion, you clearly said 3/4” but I was only paying attention to the 3/8” visual part….The good news is that this alteration worked perfectly for me! Thank you so much!
That's a good idea for removing that annoying wrinkle
Thanks!! and Thank you for fitting along with me, Happy New Year
How to make a big armhole small
Sorry for the delayed response... I will add this topic on my upcoming tutorial list. Thanks for fitting along with me
How to adjust a big armhole that can see the bra
If the armhole is hanging too low on a sleeveless top, you can pick it up a little bit by sewing the shoulder seam a little deeper. Pinch up the fabric at the tip of the shoulder and then blend back to the original seam at the neckline edge. Hope this helps!