i'm no diablo engineer but here's my guess >thinner blade needs to cut less material to get through the same depth of cut >harder teeth allow for more cutting angle which means more material removal so they used both to max out cutting speed and probably had some weird setup for durability testing to get good numbers there too
the shank could've been the same thickness tho. Yes yes, that requires an additiional machining step during production, increasing costs, yadda yadda yadda. But if I'm paying more, I'd expect better quality... riiiiiight??
Probably that they aren't using high quality steel for the meat of the blade since it's carbide tipped, so the shank doesn't hold up. They made a blade better at cutting costs than cutting materials.
Picked up a pack of the regular blades, only through a commercial supplier. They're visibly thicker than either of the ones you have. I wonder if they're older stock, or made to a different standard for commercial applications. I used mine on an old Porter Cable Tigersaw, and at full beans, that thing can explode blades at the speed of sound.
Very good video once again! 🎉 Surprisingly I found Makita blades to be the quite good. Not even carbide ones, regular metal Makita blades seem to be cheap and cheerful. I did test so many blades found in Europe I have a video on my channel if you are curious. The test is part of the Parkside 1250W sabre saw video.
Push in harder push down less... If you push down hard you apply extra force to the weakest part of the blade. You're removing the same amount of material with 5 lbs of force as you are with 50 lbs of force. Also the 7/8 stroke on the cordless hurts it's performance. Edit: They boned you. No excuse for shaving material on a blade that expensive..
That’s really disappointing. I always said that whatever the R&D guy at Diablo was being paid wasn’t enough. Put one of their blades on my cheap chop saw and it cut through steel better than some blades cut through wood. They will learn when their sales go way down.
Carbide isn't as shock tolerant as the bimetal blades are, so make sure you keep the foot of the saw against what you're cutting, and push the saw forward to keep the foot from getting pushed away on the out stroke. Also, those hacksawzalls just suck. Compact reciprocating saws are niche anyways, you want the longer stroke whenever possible, but the milwaukee ones are the worst I've used. Which is disappointing because their full size sawzall is the best one I've used.
If you have a set of Rockwell hardness testing files it might be interesting to see what the temper is between the old blades and the new ones. I bet the new blades are softer right at the point where they anchor in to the saw. But yes, the thickness of the blade is going to definitely going to have an impact upon how robust that connection point is. Not a really big fan of the quick-twist Sawzall concept. I have a 25 year old Milwaukee corded saw that can go through just about anything.
If that retaining pin is supposed to go through the hole, maybe it's not because the hole diameter is defectively too small. Looks like the pin is not going fully through the hole.
Why the hell didn't Milwaukee just make the freakin' pin go another mm or two through the blade, so the tapered end can't catch and walk the pin out? That is a dumb design. It's like Milwaukee enjoys it when their shit pops out... (lookin' at you, batteries)
My blood pressure went right up the second time it came off and it's not even my tool, I wasn't there and I have nothing invested in the project other than my time watching and you know you can't stop watching.🤬🤬🤬
Back in the day in СССР we would also experiment cutting iron & steal. But every experiment ended the same, trading the samples in for money. Metric system & 230ac the best
Diablo blades have gone to crap, simple as that, I used to swear by them, still buy the ones for thin metal, but not for thick metal anymore. Just not worth it.
Coukd be shrinkflation, maybe they are trying to get more performance by making the blade thinner as well. Maybe they should find a way to make the part of the blade that connects thicker. Like by like folding it over after the blade has been pressed. Small amount of extra material and an extra folding step but it would make their customers a lot happier.
A: lubricate the surface you're cutting, not the blade B: you don't need any more force than the weight of the tool to get through. C: walk the blade, cutting it straight down will just wear one part of the blade more than the rest
If clearance allows it I'd take a portaband over a reciprocating saw any day. I've been able to cut through all kinds of random stuff without blowing up blades or having them pop off. I cut through a 5" OD piece of solid cast iron the other day and the blade was perfectly fine!
agreed, 99% of the time.. in this case however, it would be much slower, and no way even the biggest clearance portaband would get around the flange on that beam.
@@vanguardcycle I agree throat depth is also an issue, I have in of the big Milwaukee portabands I think it's a 4" width with a 6" throat. I'm a machinist so I'm not usually doing work in the field but it's saved my butt a handful of times cutting things I couldn't just throw in my 8x24 horizontal bandsaw
Two questions come to mind: 1. Have new blades from other companies also become thinner? 2. Do thinner blades still pop out with other recip saws (ie full size sawzall vs Hackzall)?
I just cut up a cast iron tub from the 1900s with a new one I bought in the last month amped cast iron. It up into 10 peices or so no issue. I have no doubt they may or may not have issues when I first got them some were made in Switzerland then Italy now usa at times? They must be iso making them in different plants. Like you I took my calipers out old vs new were within .2 mills different in thickness 3 years old vs brand new. That may help? Also I use a flexvolt recip saw with a 12ah battery and Iet the saw do the work no reason to add weight I wonder if the stroke on the hackszall is to little? Just some inside for you. When I first got them I did the railroad track slice test and it passed if I get time I'll do the new blades and do the same for science!
i'll tell you exactly what you did wrong; you bought a milwaukee haha. all jokes aside the lever style locking mechanism on the dewalt sawzall has never popped on me. my 110v milwaukee sawzall does regularly (same twist to release spring loaded pin as the 18v hack). the dewalt lock just seems like a better design. that being said, as much as i vehemently despise them, a cordless angle grinder and a pile of .030" zip discs would make short work of those beams.
@@invetegon4596 Not so sure Sawzall is faster than a metal cutoff wheel in a grinder, but definitely less annoying and way safer. Other big downside to Sawzall is cost of consumables. Cutoff wheels are like $0.50-1 each (or way less in bulk), while fancy carbide blades are 4-5X that (or worse at retail.)
Mistake is Wilfukke doesn't make a saw that will lock to a slow speed. I think its a conspiracy so you'll go through more blades faster. OR they're plying the monkey brain when hear go BRRRRRR... I have an old drill from 30 odd yrs ago. Has a plastic "screw" in the trigger that you adjust for variable locked speed. Why couldn't Wilfukke do that?
I have often thought the exact same thing as your conspiracy theory. They know most people will want to get done fast and “high speed cut fast!” I was process welding stainless pipe for a large beverage company for about a year. 0.060” stainless wall was about the only thing we cut/welded and it was almost all with a sawzall and a hardened steel guide. My “fitters/helpers/boss’ kids” would get maybe 1 1/4 3” pipes cut before the blade was roasted. They’d give it full beans with low pressure. Never would listen to me to slow the speed down and increase pressure. I’d get nearly ten cut before the blade was too shot to cut. Cognitive dissonance is a strange high. Oh, and fuck nepotism lol
Nice video, i've got a dewalt, and craftsman, recip saw, and ive found the Dewalt brand, metal blades are great, and the Craftsman wood blades are a good value. Ive only ever had the Diablo 10 inch blade for a miter saw and it worked fine, really couldn't tell a difference, between that and the dewalt though, so i just buy bulk, Dewalt, miter and recip blades.
Yea I usually stay away from the 3rd party consumables & such. Got an m18 hacksaw too & just searched eBay until I found a decently priced new multipack of Milwaukee blades. Those have treated me very well.
Milwaukee doesn't make the carbide blades, or did not, they kick ass normally. I used one to cut a hardened bicycle lock I lost the key for. Did loose one tooth though.
All I know that would make me nuts. You read my mind I need blades. Very good analysis’ .my default holds the blade with a screw so I don’t have that issue.
A sawzall blade has to do one job above all. Stay in the fucking saw
Shrinkflation hittin hard
Fr tho😭
Just plain old corporate greed!
You are a patient man.
They want a killdozer? Because this is how they get a killdozer.
lol
Shrinkflation of saw blades? New CEO wanting a big bonus?
i'm no diablo engineer but here's my guess
>thinner blade needs to cut less material to get through the same depth of cut
>harder teeth allow for more cutting angle which means more material removal
so they used both to max out cutting speed and probably had some weird setup for durability testing to get good numbers there too
the shank could've been the same thickness tho. Yes yes, that requires an additiional machining step during production, increasing costs, yadda yadda yadda. But if I'm paying more, I'd expect better quality... riiiiiight??
Probably that they aren't using high quality steel for the meat of the blade since it's carbide tipped, so the shank doesn't hold up. They made a blade better at cutting costs than cutting materials.
Picked up a pack of the regular blades, only through a commercial supplier. They're visibly thicker than either of the ones you have. I wonder if they're older stock, or made to a different standard for commercial applications.
I used mine on an old Porter Cable Tigersaw, and at full beans, that thing can explode blades at the speed of sound.
Very good video once again! 🎉
Surprisingly I found Makita blades to be the quite good. Not even carbide ones, regular metal Makita blades seem to be cheap and cheerful. I did test so many blades found in Europe I have a video on my channel if you are curious. The test is part of the Parkside 1250W sabre saw video.
Just found your channel, and I'm really enjoying it. Thank you for taking the time to make your videos. Keep 'em coming! Best wishes from Scotland
Push in harder push down less... If you push down hard you apply extra force to the weakest part of the blade. You're removing the same amount of material with 5 lbs of force as you are with 50 lbs of force. Also the 7/8 stroke on the cordless hurts it's performance.
Edit: They boned you. No excuse for shaving material on a blade that expensive..
Never second guess ProjectFarm
That’s really disappointing. I always said that whatever the R&D guy at Diablo was being paid wasn’t enough. Put one of their blades on my cheap chop saw and it cut through steel better than some blades cut through wood. They will learn when their sales go way down.
Gas axe don't have a blade to pop out and doesn't need recharging- as much. Also: fire.
Carbide isn't as shock tolerant as the bimetal blades are, so make sure you keep the foot of the saw against what you're cutting, and push the saw forward to keep the foot from getting pushed away on the out stroke. Also, those hacksawzalls just suck. Compact reciprocating saws are niche anyways, you want the longer stroke whenever possible, but the milwaukee ones are the worst I've used. Which is disappointing because their full size sawzall is the best one I've used.
If you have a set of Rockwell hardness testing files it might be interesting to see what the temper is between the old blades and the new ones. I bet the new blades are softer right at the point where they anchor in to the saw.
But yes, the thickness of the blade is going to definitely going to have an impact upon how robust that connection point is.
Not a really big fan of the quick-twist Sawzall concept. I have a 25 year old Milwaukee corded saw that can go through just about anything.
If that retaining pin is supposed to go through the hole, maybe it's not because the hole diameter is defectively too small. Looks like the pin is not going fully through the hole.
Why the hell didn't Milwaukee just make the freakin' pin go another mm or two through the blade, so the tapered end can't catch and walk the pin out? That is a dumb design. It's like Milwaukee enjoys it when their shit pops out... (lookin' at you, batteries)
Thats what I was feeling, the retaining pin wasn't staying engaged. Vibrated out maybe? Or the blade isn't hardened where that pin is.
My blood pressure went right up the second time it came off and it's not even my tool, I wasn't there and I have nothing invested in the project other than my time watching and you know you can't stop watching.🤬🤬🤬
What is wrong is that you are not using the FUEL version of the tool....
Back in the day in СССР we would also experiment cutting iron & steal. But every experiment ended the same, trading the samples in for money. Metric system & 230ac the best
Diablo blades have gone to crap, simple as that, I used to swear by them, still buy the ones for thin metal, but not for thick metal anymore. Just not worth it.
Gotta hit those profit numbers to get your massive ceo bonus
Coukd be shrinkflation, maybe they are trying to get more performance by making the blade thinner as well. Maybe they should find a way to make the part of the blade that connects thicker. Like by like folding it over after the blade has been pressed. Small amount of extra material and an extra folding step but it would make their customers a lot happier.
You need one of those contraptions project farm has!
A: lubricate the surface you're cutting, not the blade B: you don't need any more force than the weight of the tool to get through. C: walk the blade, cutting it straight down will just wear one part of the blade more than the rest
I think those carbide blades are staying cool because that one keeps falling out, making you stop.
6:35 THAT'S IT, I WANT MY MONEY BACK!
New fan here. Love the channel, keep up the great work!
If clearance allows it I'd take a portaband over a reciprocating saw any day. I've been able to cut through all kinds of random stuff without blowing up blades or having them pop off. I cut through a 5" OD piece of solid cast iron the other day and the blade was perfectly fine!
agreed, 99% of the time.. in this case however, it would be much slower, and no way even the biggest clearance portaband would get around the flange on that beam.
@@vanguardcycle I agree throat depth is also an issue, I have in of the big Milwaukee portabands I think it's a 4" width with a 6" throat. I'm a machinist so I'm not usually doing work in the field but it's saved my butt a handful of times cutting things I couldn't just throw in my 8x24 horizontal bandsaw
@@rowandunn2403 i'm right there with you! also a machinist and if it doesnt fit on the big horizontal (11 x 17 turn-pro) i dont take the job 😂
Two questions come to mind:
1. Have new blades from other companies also become thinner?
2. Do thinner blades still pop out with other recip saws (ie full size sawzall vs Hackzall)?
If you insert the blade perpendicular to the slot, it could never pop out because it will never go in
huhuhuhuhuhuhuh
I would return that tool ASAP.
Wouldn't the trades just put these onto the clients bill as "sundries" Theres a reason Dewalt does expencive drills and blades.
Hi from Perth, Western Australia. I just love your videos! And you are hilarious. Thank you.
A new upload? Today is a good day!
Faulty blade get ur money back
I just cut up a cast iron tub from the 1900s with a new one I bought in the last month amped cast iron. It up into 10 peices or so no issue. I have no doubt they may or may not have issues when I first got them some were made in Switzerland then Italy now usa at times? They must be iso making them in different plants. Like you I took my calipers out old vs new were within .2 mills different in thickness 3 years old vs brand new. That may help? Also I use a flexvolt recip saw with a 12ah battery and Iet the saw do the work no reason to add weight I wonder if the stroke on the hackszall is to little? Just some inside for you. When I first got them I did the railroad track slice test and it passed if I get time I'll do the new blades and do the same for science!
Shoulda used KY Jelly on that pole, yo!
So basically it all comes down to the age old saying "size matters"
4:05 Me too man, me too
8:04 it normal to pop out a couple times before finishing the job, right?.....right!?
Great editing
i'll tell you exactly what you did wrong; you bought a milwaukee haha. all jokes aside the lever style locking mechanism on the dewalt sawzall has never popped on me. my 110v milwaukee sawzall does regularly (same twist to release spring loaded pin as the 18v hack). the dewalt lock just seems like a better design. that being said, as much as i vehemently despise them, a cordless angle grinder and a pile of .030" zip discs would make short work of those beams.
I have a question… why don’t you use an angle grinder?
For demo like this, in my previous experience, a Sawzall Is faster and less anoying. No sparks, no dust. Only downside is the rougher cut.
@@invetegon4596 Not so sure Sawzall is faster than a metal cutoff wheel in a grinder, but definitely less annoying and way safer. Other big downside to Sawzall is cost of consumables. Cutoff wheels are like $0.50-1 each (or way less in bulk), while fancy carbide blades are 4-5X that (or worse at retail.)
Mistake is Wilfukke doesn't make a saw that will lock to a slow speed. I think its a conspiracy so you'll go through more blades faster. OR they're plying the monkey brain when hear go BRRRRRR...
I have an old drill from 30 odd yrs ago. Has a plastic "screw" in the trigger that you adjust for variable locked speed. Why couldn't Wilfukke do that?
I have often thought the exact same thing as your conspiracy theory. They know most people will want to get done fast and “high speed cut fast!”
I was process welding stainless pipe for a large beverage company for about a year. 0.060” stainless wall was about the only thing we cut/welded and it was almost all with a sawzall and a hardened steel guide. My “fitters/helpers/boss’ kids” would get maybe 1 1/4 3” pipes cut before the blade was roasted. They’d give it full beans with low pressure. Never would listen to me to slow the speed down and increase pressure. I’d get nearly ten cut before the blade was too shot to cut. Cognitive dissonance is a strange high.
Oh, and fuck nepotism lol
Nice video, i've got a dewalt, and craftsman, recip saw, and ive found the Dewalt brand, metal blades are great, and the Craftsman wood blades are a good value. Ive only ever had the Diablo 10 inch blade for a miter saw and it worked fine, really couldn't tell a difference, between that and the dewalt though, so i just buy bulk, Dewalt, miter and recip blades.
Counter the pressure with a block under the cut or a wedge. Not too hard.
Yea I usually stay away from the 3rd party consumables & such.
Got an m18 hacksaw too & just searched eBay until I found a decently priced new multipack of Milwaukee blades. Those have treated me very well.
Milwaukee doesn't make the carbide blades, or did not, they kick ass normally. I used one to cut a hardened bicycle lock I lost the key for. Did loose one tooth though.
Hands down milwaukee torch
Invest in some small pliers to lock the blade lock
Maybe a bad batch idk? I've always been a Diablo guy but that doesn't mean that they are perfect lol
All I know that would make me nuts. You read my mind I need blades. Very good analysis’ .my default holds the blade with a screw so I don’t have that issue.
Are you wearing a Ray Mysterio mask in the opening?
Shouldn't you be using a proper sawzall for a test?
Newer blades are hecho in china
My theory is to buy the cheapest ones, you can go through a ton of them, and save money. AND FU YT for deleting my comment!
so true about that YT thing hehe
Yup, it's ran by a bunch of easily offended and easily triggered snowflakes.
@@onestopfabshop3224you seem pretty triggered by how a private company chooses to run itself lol
@@Blaurot Nope not even a little bit
Stick to Diablo blades
Add a little of that oil to blade reciever collar and your sawzall should be good as new.
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