I get a crab like scales that attaches to stem and leaves followed by black fast thin ants that are attracked to it. Its driving me crazy dobt know how to treat it.
BIG LOU 44 if you have scale that has already attached and formed a protective barrier, you have to either remove them manually with insecticidal soap and scrape them off, or spray them with a smothering oil like neem or another smothering oil and scrape them off. Then, you need to either form a barrier around your trees so they can’t crawl up the plant or regularly spray to kill the scale in their crawler form before they attach.
I just got a dwarf fig tree about 3 weeks ago. It had a super dry root ball when I repotted, and I had to soak it in water over a lengthy amount of time to rehydrate it. The next morning it was looking lovely. Then we got an intense rain storm that very night. The next morning maybe 1/4 of the leaves had broken out in rust. So this video has really helped to give me an idea of how to handle it, and to not worry thinking my first fig tree is about to die on me! Thanks a bunch, dude!
Starting to get rust here in zone 9b also, glad to know I don’t need to worry right now. First year growing figs for me, your channel is very informative and timely-thanks!
If you're just getting rust now, by the time it gets bad enough to impair photosynthesis, your season should be over anyway. Nothing to worry about, I bet.
@@TheMillennialGardenerDoes photosynthesis explain why fig trees under shade cloth do not experience rust? I have several not directly under shade cloth but had rust really bad, though they are recovering. Lastly, is this seasonal or is tree permanently damaged? Sorry for delayed comment
Excellent, I have come to the same conclusion in general about fig tree health and your having an orchard of pots as well with in ground makes a great example for us potted growers who have issues.
I have 2 new fig trees (roughly 2'). They came infested with rust but because they won't produce this year and I don't want to lose leaves early, the local nursery suggested I treat them with a systemic that you normally wouldn't use if you were expecting to harvest. I've also been pruning to prevent spores from spreading and neem oil to protect the other leaves. I had also read you should remove dropped leaves to prevent the fungus from living in the soil.
That will burn the leaves, unfortunately. When you use sulfur, you can't mix it with anything else. It has to be a standalone spray, and you shouldn't apply any horticultural oils or oil-based sprays within a recent sulfur treatment, either.
After going thru so many videos on rust prevention (I have both the container and ground tree), this is the video that gives the best advice. Clear, detailed explanations and more. Thank you so much for sharing your expertise!
I would like to encourage you to get a green ischia/verte fig. This is one of the best fig cultivars I have tasted and I think you would really like it. I originally purchased mine from Edible landscaping in VA but I think you can find it from many sources. It should do excellent in your climate, mine does very well planted in ground near Winston-Salem and I am located in a colder climate than you are.
As a retired stone fruit grower, the wine grapes, our best solution to fungal, mildew, rusts as well as pests was clean up sprays at leaf drop, mid winter if mild, and at early spring before bud swell and at first sign of bud swell. If we got lazy during leaf drop we paid the price all season, both in spray bills, crop penalties for fungal spots, bunch roots. Pay now or pay dearly later we coached the younger growers.
Hey, that was a lot of real good info. I'm just starting to grow some figs in containers, here in central Florida, and I appreciate the knowledge you just passed on. Thanks!
@@randykrause8592 i've kept veggie gardens for years, but this is a my first season for figs. Coincidentally, also the first year that i've had to deal with birds going after my crops! Thankfully not too bad, and birds are gonna be birds so i'll accept some minor loss, but darned if they don't get after a ripe fig QUICK!
I think you're 100% right. I totally overwatered my container figs this year. The past month I have cut way back on watering. The new leaves are green and healthy, rust is almost nonexistent.
Thanks for this timely vid. I’m seeing what appears to be rust fungus on my red oak leaves but it’s right before the leaves drop. Won’t worry about it until next year.
Thanks for sharing &a very helpful understanding style of narration.I live in Islamabad where June July August &September isg surprisingly very hot ,my figs plants were going well June after with rust ,spiderwebs like webs appeared on leaves,figs stay small &intertwined with leaves,water them morning &evenings.Temperature-is between 45oC at afternoon &28 oC at night.lot of humidity &occasional rain.
Hi, thanks for this amazing video. I know that was October and now it is July 19th in Nashville area. I have one fig I bought a year ago spring. Didn’t havre rust last year but it is starting this week. We have had tons of rain. I sprayed today with the copper fungicide. Should I bring inside to a sunny window until the rain stops. I want to put in the ground but the ground is like mush now and I’m not sure I have a sunny enough spot. Thanks for any advice!
Not sure if you will see this comment since your video is over a year old. I just bought my first fig tree, the label calls it a dwarf. I hadn't decided to pot it or plant it in the ground until I watched this video. I had left it in the store container for several days. Leaves started turning yellow and rusting. I also live in Houston. So I planted it in the ground, removed the heavy rusted leaves, and sprayed with liquid copper. We'll see how it turns out. Thanks for the tips.
Thank you for your fig videos. I am in a new area and am growing my main fig tree in ground. I also have two more in containers. So your videos are so important to me.
@@TheMillennialGardener I planted my grandmother's fig tree (well, it's great grand tree) last fall. It was about 4ft high. It made it through the winter and has grown amazingly. It's about 8 or 9 ft high and at least 6ft wide. I was surprised that it started growing figs. I thought it would be at least another year. But none of the figs were ripening. So last week, I started pinching off new top growths and young shoots at the bottom. Most of the figs are still green. I don't know that they will ripen this year. But today, while watering and doing a little more pruning, of a couple yellow leaves in the center of the tree, I found 1 ripe fig! I was so excited. I split it with my daughter and my granddaughter,2, who never had a fig. She loved it. I hope a few more will ripen before our frost . (South Jersey, 7a) I'm not sure if I can attach a pic here. But it's just a black fig. I don't know the type.
I live in FL zone 10a. I noticed rust on my everbearing Italian fig plant that was purchased and planted a couple months ago. I test spray it with some liquid copper today, and I will spray it completely on Tuesday evening.
Did it go into dormancy for winter? I'm curious if it's an overwintered cutting. Normally, it should be pushing out fresh leaves now, so if it's rusty, that makes me think they're last year's leaves.
I have rust on small rooted fig plant I ordered online. It came to me looking healthy but quickly developed the problem. I just sprayed a little Daconil on it. Crossing my fingers it will continue growing.
Thanks for the info. I have 2 brown turkeys that are about 12 years old. Last year was the first year I had rust…..on both. It was at the end of the year so all I did was thin out branches as the local Ag extension suggested. Well it’s early season, I have a lot of figs but also rust. Frustrating. I see this video was done about 2 years ago so I was wondering if you have any new thoughts on treatment ? Would organic fertilizer or other nutrients stave off this blight? Healthier trees have a better chance of fighting off disease. Thank you
I planted a young Chicago Hardy fig tree earlier this spring. It’s still small but has tons of leaves and about a dozen large green figs on it. This morning I found numerous leaves spotted with this rust. I’m in south Mississippi and we’ve been getting numerous daily rains for over a week now. Not sure if there’s anything I can do or should do at this point. Any thoughts??
I have same type of fig in SELF WATERING POTS and some in regular pots that have drain at the bottom, those in self watering pots do not have rust but those in regular pots started to have rust..... the problem is water moisture and temperature in regular pots are not stable....put more water in until soil get thoroughly wet once then add fertilizer and water regularly will help
Me too! I’m in zone 9b, tiny freckles of rust on some leaves on my very young trees. Still 90 degrees here in California and seeing new growth on my babies. I use copper on my olive trees to combat mites so I will be using the copper spray next spring.♥️
If all you have are tiny speckles, you're probably fine since your season will be coming to an end within the next 45 days or so. Chances are, by the time the rust gets bad enough to cause leaf drop, it'll be too late in the season to ripen figs worth eating, anyway.
Thanks for the video! I have some of the rust spots as well also how old are your figs in the 5 gallon buckets and how long you think you can keep them in there before uppotting to a larger container? also I need to prune my 1 year old trees some of them reached 6ft from last winter cuttings , my Smith went from a little cutting thingy straight up to 6ft and no branches..1-1/4" trunk to 3/4" thick at the top, how much do you prune? every video I find on YT they show the trees already pruned . could you do a real time video of pruning? that will be greatly appreciated!
NJ HW the trees are anywhere from 1-2 years old. Many will have to be root pruned this winter. I don’t have a video on it yet because I haven’t had to do it yet, but I will have to this winter. When it comes time, I will film the process.
Hi. I’m in zone 6a in Canada. I kept my tree outside until the leaves dropped, then brought it in the house, 65F, for November thru March. The tree leafed out, but because it was not getting enough light the leaves were very leggy. Now it has developed leaf rust, is dropping leaves, and I don’t know what to expect. Is it a goner? Should it cut back and wait for new growth?
Just watched some of your older videos. I have a celeste fig tree potted and brought in and out for 3 years. This year in the spring I planted it outside (central Long Island zone 7a). The tree went into shock but came back strong and produced over 100 figs. The tree is about 5ft tall/wide with about a 2-1/2" single trunk many branches. My question has to do with the winter and the fig production next year. I would rather not get involved with wrapping/protecting. Is that a mistake, can the tree handle the winter, will my fig harvest be significantly less next year? Thank you.
Ever year my plants die back to the ground the fruit production suffers. I'm going to start cutting them back far enough that I can put a garbage bag and bucket or tote over them.
Hi there, thanks for this video! I have a small fig plant in a pot, grown from a cutting. In the spring of this year, it had seven beautiful, healthy leaves, but as the heat and humidity ramped up here in Eastern PA, the leaves started to get rust spots. The leaves are all now dead, and it's only mid-July. Should I consider the plant to be dead, or just dormant? I got it in spring 2020, and it survived the winter up in my attic, with very rare watering, in a dormant state, then leafed out this spring. Should I bring it indoors now and treat it as dormant, in the hope that it will leaf out again next spring? Thanks in advance for your help.
I have two fig trees that I just recently planted about eight months ago, and I thought they had completely died because of fig rust. Fortunately they came back, but the rust is back. I’m not going to worry too much about it now because were in November, but I really think that I’m going to get a really strong fungicide. Your trees should be fine though.
I live in central Florida and the only place I can plant in ground they will only get evening sun, Should I just leave them in pots or you think they will grow well in that area ? I have blueberries also witch ones would do better in evening sun
I just bought and repotted a new little fig tree, it was ok then fig rust is kicking in. I'm in ct zone 6. What can I do? I haven't had a chance to bring it outdoors with my other citrus plants.
Good video, My trees are doing it now as well, So not too concerned. It is hard to see all the figs that are left over with not enough time to ripen, such is life. looking for a better crop next year as the trees gain some age.
In my opinion, it is better to have fig trees so productive that they produce more than our season can handle than the other way around. What pains me is when I have bare trees in August. There was so much more time! It’s a good problem to have, which is why I plant many varieties. Gotta extend that season.
@@TheMillennialGardener Spoken like a true optimist. You are very right Sir. I am considering using my Chicago Hardy tree as a tester to see if I put it in my green house (heated) it may or may not ripen what is left on it. I am not particularly attached to this one, not that it would ruin it. I do have my Golden Goji berries in there now and another very small fig tree. We shall see.
I also. But your potted Big's are more stressed than your ingrown figs which is causing them to be more prone to rest. I went away for a week and my husband forgot to water everything and I came back in my Sig is yellowing on a few leaves and showing signs of rest for the first time. I blame stress from not getting any water in 100-degree temperatures for a week
I have a few fig trees that are planted in the ground on my property. One of them have produced figs twice but they fell off before they become ripe. I have a video of my fig trees on my CZcams. For the most part they look healthy.
Usually, that's absolutely true. This year, my in-ground figs got a terrible case of rust, though. We went about 7 days in a row in August where it didn't rain. I figured - no problem for established in-ground fig trees. Well, my container figs did well because I had to water them every day, but my in-ground figs went through drought stress. They wilted and lost most of their leaves. It was pretty crippling, especially since those trees got hit by a late freeze (whereas the container figs were protected). This was a weird year where my in-ground figs did very poorly, and my container figs did very well. But usually, yes, in-ground is better.
Very informative video. Thank you! 2 questions, please: Once all the rusted leaves drop and new growth occurs next season, is there rust automatically or does rust develop based on the conditions? Does the fig rust spread to other fig trees or other plants? Kind regards.
The sulfur in plant food is a different compound than what's found in wettable sulfur. Sulfur in plants is a "secondary macronutrient," so quantities are very low. The wettable sulfur powder is high concentration. I wouldn't expect a synthetic fertilizer to be very protective against any fungal growth. If you want a spray that does that, use the Monterrey Complete Disease Control I have linked in my Amazon Storefront. That's a natural bacteria that helps prevent disease. In my experience, it's a better preventative spray than a curative spray.
Its February here in central my first year growing I took all the bad leaves off that were bad n it started growing new leaves faster I guess I was lucky
How about when the leaves are turn white. My first tree. Was looking so beautiful and now the leaves has white spots and is getting dry. Any suggestions??
What about Brewing up some time to you or mixing sometime oils in water and spraying that? It's been a great antifungal for me and actually saved a bird when none of the veterinary medicines helped
In-ground really is better for the trees, isn't it? That being said, I don't have ground space for all the figs I collect. 😅 Thank you for the info, I need to get some of that liquid copper concentrate now.
I'm pretty sure my fig trees are a bit screwed, because most of them seem to have rust. One of them is pretty gnarly. I bought them from lowes and tossed them in the ground, and it seems like they're struggling with these humid and slightly rainy days.
Could you tell me which copper you use and what concentrate you mix it at? I haven’t found one that lists figs in the list of plants/directions. Thanks!
Great videos. I live in zone 7a and we have had lots of rain this summer. My in ground fig is showing signs of rust. I purchased the Southern AG liquid copper. The directions do not specify for figs. What concentration do you use? Thank you.
I would just use an average concentration for something in between. I think most of them call for something like 1.5-3Tbsp/gal, but I can't remember for sure. Be more on the conservative side.
It’s November in south Florida. Can you do a video explaining why all 6 of my fig trees (in pots) have a lot of leaves and several have small fig bulbs. All six are under a year old. Should I remove the leaves and Breba? Why aren’t the leaves dying? Some trees have fig rust but also have green leaves. If they are growing figlets now, will they fruit in the fall?
Fig trees are deciduous trees endemic to temperate zones. The reason why your figs are behaving oddly in your climate is you are far out of their native range. In their native range, they would be entering dormancy and likely would have been completely defoliated by a frost and the short days of autumn by now. Your trees don't experience those austere seasonal shifts, so their biological calendars are out of whack. I do not have much experience with your climate. However, you are going to want to prune the trees during your peak "cool season" to try and reset them. That, for you, will probably be mid-January. I believe that's when Florida growers often cut back their trees. It's up to you if you want to leave the breba, but I would definitely prune them back. If you have cold nights coming up in the 40's or 30's, I'd leave them outside to be exposed to the cold as much as possible. So far, my trees have all been hit by 25F, 26F and 28F nights in the past week. I let them take those temps completely unprotected. They are finally defoliating, as they should.
What are your thoughts on using a "self watering container" for the figs? I have some in pots for several years now and I am thinking of trying a self watering pot. Traveling and not being able to keep a consistent watering schedule have been problematic in the past. I think I should be able to get at least a week of water for them in the summer going this route.
I use self watering containers for citrus and love them. I would love to use them for figs, but I can't find them large enough for a decent price. Figs grow very, very vigorously (much faster than citrus), but if you can find a 10+ gallon container that's self-watering for a good price, I'd totally be on board.
Thank you, Another great video. I experienced rust for the first time this season. I treated with copper BUT as you mentioned I was to late! But, now I know. May I ask you what your first name is? Thanks again from Massachusetts! Yo Dale !!!
@@TheMillennialGardener We something in common besides figs and veggies. My dad, I, my son and grandson are all named Anthony and my dogs name is Nino ! Take care !
My father is Anthony, and his father as well. We Italians aren’t very creative when it comes to names 😂 Just look at our figs. They’re such creative names like “Black Fig” and “Green Fig” when you translate them.
Great video and very informative. Can I plant fig trees in the ground in zone 6, or should they stay in containers and be brought inside during the harsh winters?
I would not plant a fig tree in Zone 6 in the fall. Figs are going to have 100% dieback in Zone 6 almost every season, unless they are well-protected. If you plant it now, the roots won’t have time to establish, and there is a high probability the tree will be killed. Plant in the spring after your last frost so the roots have all season to establish, and if the tree is killed to the ground the following year, it’ll grow back from the roots.
I have a dwarf fig tree my mom bought me about 5 yrs ago i keep it in a big planter that i put in garage for winter since I'm in NY,it grew pretty tall and gets lots of leaves,about 6ft,never produced figs,should i trim it down
If you aren't getting any figs, it's probably because either: 1. You aren't fertilizing it enough. Try my fertilizing tutorial playlist here: czcams.com/play/PL1gY7BoYBGIFNbJEUdApbh_E57uNBLG2j.html 2. It isn't getting enough sun. Figs need an absolute minimum of 6 hours of uninterrupted, unfiltered sun every day, but 8-12 hours will be superior. 3. It's root bound and you need to remove it while it's dormant, cut the root back and re-pot it in fresh mix, then "rejuvination prune it," which simply means pruning it back heavily during dormancy.
Hi my fig tree was so green and beautiful, but now all the leaves have rust and falling off . I live in south FL. What would you recommend? Should I cut all the leaves ? I got the tree this past summer . I see you mention in the Fall , but it started now in January and February .
Fig trees are deciduous, so they will lose their leaves every season. Since you're in South Florida, it probably doesn't get cold and dark enough to defoliate the tree until the dead of winter since you're so far south of the tree's native latitude. Therefore, my GUESS is it's just behind schedule and it's going to defoliate and push out new growth in the "real Spring." I honestly wouldn't worry about it. My trees become overtaken by rust in November and are bare by Christmas. My guess is you're just behind schedule since you don't get a real winter.
Just bought fig tree it’s in a relatively small pot. But it’s starting to rust. I have it in a non direct sun area. How can I avoid this it’s May. It’s a baby still.
Fungus diseases like powdery mildow and rust are invading my fig trees . Would it help if I mix some fungicide powder into the soil surrounding the roots
No. The fungal disease is in the leaves. Where are you located? Figs are deciduous trees, so they must lose their leaves in the winter. If you live in a more tropical climate, your tree will still lose its leaves periodically. Rust generally isn't a problem when it comes in the fall. Figs must be defoliated and produce new green leaves for new growth, so rust actually helps the tree shed its leaves and "refresh" itself. The only time rust is a problem is when it comes very early in spring and early summer because if the trees lose their leaves before they can ripen the fruits, the fruits won't ripen because the tree won't absorb any energy from the sunlight. If your tree isn't ripening fruits right now, it doesn't need the leaves and will make new ones come spring.
Question, if a tree gets leaf rust one season, does that mean it will always get leaf rust every season? Or, maybe I should ask, is that tree infected for life?
There is a lot of Spanish moss that grows in the woods here, but not around me. It grows along the rivers all over the oaks and cypress. It's beautiful, but I'm happy to say my area is free of it.
Is fig rust contagious and can it spread to other at risk tree species? My fig always looks lovely for the first few months in the spring but starts rusting when the humidity rises at the beginning of monsoon season. I'm in a high desert region and would like to avoid planting potentially susceptible species if it can spread from plant to plant easily.
The fungus that causes rust is in the air, so there is little you can do to stop your plants from getting it. You can delay it by applying a liquid copper fungicide in May before the problem begins every 14 days preemptively. However, if you aren’t getting signs of rust until late August/September, it is no big deal. Your fig quality will drop dramatically after mid-September, and rust is part of the natural defoliation process in fall. Figs are deciduous trees, so it isn’t a problem late in the season. June rust is not good, but late August rust beginning…I don’t mind that late. If it doesn’t manifest til late August, it won’t really cause damage til October, and it is too late for good figs by then.
Does the copper concentrate you have in your Amazon store actually list figs and how to treat them? I bought another one on Amazon and it doesn’t list figs :(
I have not used that in the past. I leave my figs outside all winter. I haven't had to bring them in yet, but we'll see how this winter goes. Last winter, we had no nights in the teens. That could change this winter.
If you store them, that's probably a good idea because you may overwinter pests in a predatorless storage environment. Since mine are exposed 365 days a year, I don't worry because the predators should, in theory, get to any pests. However, it probably wouldn't hurt.
Figs are deciduous trees from temperate zones that must lose their leaves each winter and go through a period of dormancy. Since you don't get frost to defoliate your trees, you need to rely on rust and the short days of winter to weaken the trees so they shed their leaves. This is a natural process. You shouldn't do anything. Let them defoliate naturally. They should be close to, if not totally bare by now.
The copper can negatively impact the enviro. I removed the leaves with rust and sprayed neem oil in the evenings when the bees stop foraging. I also heard good things about bacillus subtilis and just got Serenade from Amz. I'm new to gardening and I've relied mostly on neem oil and castille soap that's fixed most things (slowed down/prevent blight, powdery mildew, rust) but I wonder if you've heard of or tried bacillus subtilis. Either way, thank you for the video. I'm in 9a so even if things take a turn for the worst, there's always next season!
I don't buy that the copper will negatively impact the environment. You would have to pour a concentrated amount directly into a water source, or to a gutter that leads to a stream. Liquid copper concentrations for pesticide treatment equate to about 2 Tablespoons per gallon once every 7-10 days during the rust season. That's an inconsequential amount of copper, especially when you weigh it against the benefits. The more food you can grow at home, the less you will have to buy, so extending your growing season means you're actually positively impacting the environment by growing less food. It's not a zero sum game. You using natural anti-fungals to grow more food actually is a net benefit when you subtract all the much less sustainably grown foods from grocery stores you now won't be consuming. I've used Serenade in the past. I've found it to be less effective, particularly on tomatoes. Especially once a disease grabs hold. I have not tried it on my figs. If you live in a climate with less disease pressure, you may have luck with Serenade, but pressure is extremely high here and I don't find it potent enough. Also, since it is a living bacteria, it's prone to spoilage, so you need to store it indoors during the summer. It's also 2-3 times more expensive than copper. I've just found copper to be more effective, easier to store during the summer and more cost effective.
I'm in 9a, Texas. The pressure is real. I suppose if you don't consider how the copper is harvested, sure, maybe not an issue but I personally am concerned with how the mining undustry negatively affects the balance of our ecosystems that we rely on. To each their own. I understand it's not an immediate concern because it's not in your backyard and as long as we're just worried about concentrations on individual scale (and not worrying about how other gardeners - esp new ones) then sure nothing to worry about. Like I said, thanks for the vid, I'll see how Serenade does in my humid, hot, Texas fall. Things look ok so far but I'll def be ready to PREVENT the rust next year. I bought my fig from a nursery and it had it already so that's that. Cheers.
Sue I understand, I really do. I’m not being dismissive. I’m just weighing my opinions. Yes, the copper is a natural resource that is mined an can be destructive, but the alternative is get in my car made out of dozens of mined metals, manufactured plastics, and countless poisonous fluids, fill the tank with gasoline and drive to the grocery store and buy commercially farmed produce. I truly believe that gardening is one of the healthiest things we can do - for our mind, body and the planet. We still may have to use the occasional chemical to maximize our harvest or deal with pests and diseases, but it is so much better than the grocery store alternative, I won’t let “perfect” be the enemy of “good,” as they say.
I live in Barbados and I noticed my Fig Tree has rust - is this something I should be concerned about since we only have summer all year round with wet and dry periods? It is currently wet as we are coming out of the hurricane season but prior to the rains coming we were experiencing a fairly severe drought. My tree is in ground and is currently in a growth stage but the older leaves have the rust spots.
Even though you are growing a fig in the tropics, it will still have to go through a period where it loses its leaves, pauses for a moment to recollect its energy and restart its life cycle again with new, green growth. I would anticipate the tree to begin losing its leaves. If the tree doesn't drop its leaves soon enough, you may want to consider manually removing all the leaves to force all new growth. That should act as a sort of "reset" switch. I wouldn't worry about it all because fig leaves are only designed to survive a few months and be replaced.
I live in Dominica where we get more rain than Barbados. Last year I got a good crop of figs, but this year practically none. The figs loose their leaves during the dry season, approx 3 months, and now in the wet season because of fig rust. I will try and remove the dead leaves as another video suggested. I would rather not treat with fungicide but may have no other option.
By the way - do you know of any growers who ship cuttings to Barbados? We have very limited variety here on the island and I would really love to try some others.
@@foreignapes have you tried manually removing the leaves and figs in the middle of your wet season to see if you can trick the fig into going into dormancy then and coming out of dormancy during the dry season? It may be worth a try since day length and temperatures don't change much during the year on Dominica, but rainfall patterns are bad for figs April to September but excellent during the drier season.
It is going to depend on the product you buy. Concentrations will vary by brand, so you must carefully read the instructions. The concentrations vary based on what fruit tree you use, and they usually have dozens of different concentrations listed depending on the fruit tree. If it does not specifically list fig trees, choose something conservative on the lower-to-mid end of the recommendations.
@@TheMillennialGardener yeah fig tree wasn't mentioned and I did exactly what you said which go conservative and did my first foliar spray application. Thank you for the reply Anthony, it is very much appreciated.
It depends on the zone. If you're in Zone 7 or colder, figs usually need protection. Zone 7a or below, in-ground fig trees usually need to be wrapped, or they'll face significant or total dieback. No figs should be left unprotected outside all year in Zone 7 or below, because the roots could freeze through. If the roots freeze through into the teens, the entire tree could die. If you're in Zone 8 or above, in-ground trees usually don't require protection, and container trees can be fine pushed up against a warm wall of a house or in some other sheltered location. I've never really protected my potted trees, and my in-ground trees receive no protection here in Zone 8a.
It's a tough thing to do. It seems "safer" to water than to not during this hot part of the year, but too much is certainly not good. Overwatered trees lead to yellow leaves, and they get rust easily.
I generally don't remove leaves on my fig trees. They will naturally drop on their own because they're deciduous. Pulling them off too early just makes them bleed sap, so I try and avoid that.
@@TheMillennialGardener Sorry, - should have provided more info. I’m in Australia - we have had weeks of rain, now it’s hot with high humidity. The figs are about half grown and still hard. Then the skin starts to darken ), this spreads and the fig becomes black and shrivelled. Now the leaves are becoming mottled and dropping. The tree is in a pot and I know I have left too many branches so must harden my resolve and give it a prune. Last year I did get a small number of very nice figs from it. I think the possums and bower birds took a few. I followed your instructions for striking cuttings and had an 8 out of 10 success rate. They have now been potted on to mid size pots. I did get distracted in November and December as I’m a dog photographer and was photographing Christmas sessions non stop. My fertilising regime got neglected. Thank you so much for replying. I am a dedicated fan.
I have a follow-up on it here: czcams.com/video/ANovRTR_lS4/video.html I assume you're in the Southern Hemisphere? Possibly Australia? I get rust in September, and your "March" is my "September," so it looks to be right on schedule. They always get rust this time of year, so there is probably nothing to worry about. Rust helps the trees defoliate, and they're deciduous trees, so it's just part of the life cycle. Rust is only bad if it happens in late spring because it'll be too early and cause leaf drop, but fall rust is no problem and natural.
Almost all fig trees have FMV. Generally, it's very easily managed and if your tree is healthy and well-fed, you shouldn't even notice it. The way you beat FMV is by planting the fig tree in fertile soil with at least 8+ hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight a day, giving it plenty of fertilizer and if the tree is in-ground, heavily amend the tree with good compost and a layer of mulch. Providing the fig tree with an abundance of nutrients will allow the tree to suppress the virus to the point where it isn't detectable in most cases. Give my fig fertilizing playlist a watch if you need more info: czcams.com/play/PL1gY7BoYBGIFNbJEUdApbh_E57uNBLG2j.html
I don’t really care for them. Funny thing is a Fig Newton doesn’t taste like a fig. Dried caprified figs have a totally different flavor, nothing like fresh.
Yahshua - you know Him as Jesus - was born to a virgin, turned water to wine, taught, healed the sick, raised the dead, casted out demons, walked on water, calmed the storm, and fed a crowd of thousands with a few fish and a few loaves of bread, among many other things. He was killed on the cross as payment for the sins of all mankind, three days later He rose from the dead. Forty days later He ascended into heaven where He sits at the right hand of the Father. He is returning very soon, but before He does, Satan, the devil, is coming to pretend to be Jesus/God. Satan is an angel, and he will have certain supernatural powers with which to try to fool everyone. He will, for example, be able to make fire come down from heaven in the sight of men. He will only be on earth a short time before the real King of Kings, Jesus Christ, God in the flesh, returns. When the real Jesus comes we will all be transformed into our spiritual bodies at the same moment. Jesus came in the flesh to offer forgiveness of sins and eternal life to anyone who believes and calls on His precious name! if thou shalt confess with thy mouth the Lord Jesus, and shalt believe in thine heart that God hath raised him from the dead, thou shalt be saved. - Romans 10:9 Now when Jesus was in Bethany, in the house of Simon the leper, There came unto him a woman having an alabaster box of very precious ointment, and poured it on his head, as he sat at meat. But when his disciples saw it, they had indignation, saying, To what purpose is this waste? For this ointment might have been sold for much, and given to the poor. When Jesus understood it, he said unto them, Why trouble ye the woman? for she hath wrought a good work upon me. For ye have the poor always with you; but me ye have not always. For in that she hath poured this ointment on my body, she did it for my burial. Verily I say unto you, Wheresoever this gospel shall be preached in the whole world, there shall also this, that this woman hath done, be told for a memorial of her. -- Matthew 26:6-13 Seek ye the LORD while he may be found, call ye upon him while he is near: Let the wicked forsake his way, and the unrighteous man his thoughts: and let him return unto the LORD, and he will have mercy upon him; and to our God, for he will abundantly pardon. To anoint your self, the sick, or a building for spiritual protection: Get a small bottle of olive oil and pour off a small amount into a smaller vessel like a vial or baby food jar. Use the rest of the bottle for cooking. Ask the Lord to bless your vial of oil in Jesus name. Anoint yourself with the oil by placing a dab of oil on tip of finger and touch it to your forehead, and ask the Lord to bless you/heal you. Place a dab of oil on your finger and anoint the door posts and order all negativity and evil out of the house, and order that nothing negative or evil can enter into your home including piggybacking on a person entering, order it to be so in the name of Jesus. Anoint all potential entrances to your home. To anoint the sick, place oil on tip of finger and touch it to the head of the sick and say a prayer of healing over them in Jesus name. See James Chapter 5:14-15.
Fig trees come from the Mediterranean where it does not rain all summer. This is opposite of my climate. I mention in most of my videos how important it is to trial your figs before you plant them, because if you plant them without testing them, you may plant a tree where all your fruits will rot. I have about 20 trees that will not work in my climate or that I don’t care for. It would’ve been a disaster to plant them without testing them first. Always test before planting, unless you’re sure you really want that variety.
The man took his time and expertise to share for free to whomever is interested. He's not asking for a communication class critique. Proper manners would suggest simply moving on to the next video, no need to offer your "wisdom."
*Be sure to watch until the end for some furry, four-legged fun🐕!*
... Yeah, with fun 😊.
I get a crab like scales that attaches to stem and leaves followed by black fast thin ants that are attracked to it. Its driving me crazy dobt know how to treat it.
@@biglou4452 are they aphids? Or scale? If so, that's something that can be treated with pesticides. You'd have to identify the pest.
Scales color dark brown they latch on stem i usually pop them they don't move .
BIG LOU 44 if you have scale that has already attached and formed a protective barrier, you have to either remove them manually with insecticidal soap and scrape them off, or spray them with a smothering oil like neem or another smothering oil and scrape them off. Then, you need to either form a barrier around your trees so they can’t crawl up the plant or regularly spray to kill the scale in their crawler form before they attach.
I'm in Florida and my potted fig gets completely defoliated by rust every year in late summer. Unbearably wet and hot. I think your theory is solid.
I just got a dwarf fig tree about 3 weeks ago. It had a super dry root ball when I repotted, and I had to soak it in water over a lengthy amount of time to rehydrate it. The next morning it was looking lovely. Then we got an intense rain storm that very night. The next morning maybe 1/4 of the leaves had broken out in rust. So this video has really helped to give me an idea of how to handle it, and to not worry thinking my first fig tree is about to die on me! Thanks a bunch, dude!
Starting to get rust here in zone 9b also, glad to know I don’t need to worry right now. First year growing figs for me, your channel is very informative and timely-thanks!
If you're just getting rust now, by the time it gets bad enough to impair photosynthesis, your season should be over anyway. Nothing to worry about, I bet.
@@TheMillennialGardenerDoes photosynthesis explain why fig trees under shade cloth do not experience rust? I have several not directly under shade cloth but had rust really bad, though they are recovering. Lastly, is this seasonal or is tree permanently damaged? Sorry for delayed comment
Excellent, I have come to the same conclusion in general about fig tree health and your having an orchard of pots as well with in ground makes a great example for us potted growers who have issues.
I'm glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching.
You are so well informed, so knowledgeable, such an excellent presenter. I always learn from you. Thank you so very much.
Thank you! I really appreciate that. Thank you for watching.
Excellent video!
I have 2 new fig trees (roughly 2'). They came infested with rust but because they won't produce this year and I don't want to lose leaves early, the local nursery suggested I treat them with a systemic that you normally wouldn't use if you were expecting to harvest. I've also been pruning to prevent spores from spreading and neem oil to protect the other leaves. I had also read you should remove dropped leaves to prevent the fungus from living in the soil.
Thanks for the tip about mixing sulfur and oil! I did that and thought the trees acquired a new disease. Now I know 👍
That will burn the leaves, unfortunately. When you use sulfur, you can't mix it with anything else. It has to be a standalone spray, and you shouldn't apply any horticultural oils or oil-based sprays within a recent sulfur treatment, either.
After going thru so many videos on rust prevention (I have both the container and ground tree), this is the video that gives the best advice. Clear, detailed explanations and more. Thank you so much for sharing your expertise!
Thank you for watching! I'm glad you found it helpful.
I Love Fig Nerds!!
@@TheMillennialGardener is it ok to spray liquid copper or sulfur when in flowering with figs?
I would like to encourage you to get a green ischia/verte fig. This is one of the best fig cultivars I have tasted and I think you would really like it. I originally purchased mine from Edible landscaping in VA but I think you can find it from many sources. It should do excellent in your climate, mine does very well planted in ground near Winston-Salem and I am located in a colder climate than you are.
As a retired stone fruit grower, the wine grapes, our best solution to fungal, mildew, rusts as well as pests was clean up sprays at leaf drop, mid winter if mild, and at early spring before bud swell and at first sign of bud swell.
If we got lazy during leaf drop we paid the price all season, both in spray bills, crop penalties for fungal spots, bunch roots.
Pay now or pay dearly later we coached the younger growers.
Figs like dry hot weather. Growing figs in a humid environment is pretty hard. God luck my friend.
Yes, it is very difficult, but I can get a decent harvest during dry spells. We do what we can for fresh figs.
It's your experience that gives you knowledge which to me makes a great teacher.
Thank you so much! I really appreciate that.
Excellent information and presentation! Thank you so much! :)
Hey, that was a lot of real good info. I'm just starting to grow some figs in containers, here in central Florida, and I appreciate the knowledge you just passed on. Thanks!
I live in St cloud n it's my first year
@@randykrause8592 i've kept veggie gardens for years, but this is a my first season for figs.
Coincidentally, also the first year that i've had to deal with birds going after my crops! Thankfully not too bad, and birds are gonna be birds
so i'll accept some minor loss, but darned if they don't get after a ripe fig QUICK!
I think you're 100% right. I totally overwatered my container figs this year. The past month I have cut way back on watering. The new leaves are green and healthy, rust is almost nonexistent.
It is tough to find that balance in containers. The line between overwatering and underwatering is very fine.
Thanks mate very informative and help a lot. Sincerely thanks Antonio.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
Great content. thanks for sharing. much appreciated
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this timely vid. I’m seeing what appears to be rust fungus on my red oak leaves but it’s right before the leaves drop. Won’t worry about it until next year.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing &a very helpful understanding style of narration.I live in Islamabad where June July August &September isg surprisingly very hot ,my figs plants were going well June after with rust ,spiderwebs like webs appeared on leaves,figs stay small &intertwined with leaves,water them morning &evenings.Temperature-is between 45oC at afternoon &28 oC at night.lot of humidity &occasional rain.
Thank you, very helpful information.
You’re welcome!
Hi, thanks for this amazing video. I know that was October and now it is July 19th in Nashville area. I have one fig I bought a year ago spring. Didn’t havre rust last year but it is starting this week. We have had tons of rain. I sprayed today with the copper fungicide. Should I bring inside to a sunny window until the rain stops. I want to put in the ground but the ground is like mush now and I’m not sure I have a sunny enough spot. Thanks for any advice!
Not sure if you will see this comment since your video is over a year old. I just bought my first fig tree, the label calls it a dwarf. I hadn't decided to pot it or plant it in the ground until I watched this video. I had left it in the store container for several days. Leaves started turning yellow and rusting. I also live in Houston. So I planted it in the ground, removed the heavy rusted leaves, and sprayed with liquid copper. We'll see how it turns out. Thanks for the tips.
Did it work?
Thank you for your fig videos. I am in a new area and am growing my main fig tree in ground. I also have two more in containers. So your videos are so important to me.
I'm glad you're finding them helpful! Thanks so much for watching!
@@TheMillennialGardener I planted my grandmother's fig tree (well, it's great grand tree) last fall. It was about 4ft high. It made it through the winter and has grown amazingly. It's about 8 or 9 ft high and at least 6ft wide. I was surprised that it started growing figs. I thought it would be at least another year. But none of the figs were ripening. So last week, I started pinching off new top growths and young shoots at the bottom.
Most of the figs are still green. I don't know that they will ripen this year.
But today, while watering and doing a little more pruning, of a couple yellow leaves in the center of the tree, I found 1 ripe fig! I was so excited. I split it with my daughter and my granddaughter,2, who never had a fig. She loved it. I hope a few more will ripen before our frost .
(South Jersey, 7a)
I'm not sure if I can attach a pic here. But it's just a black fig. I don't know the type.
I live in FL zone 10a. I noticed rust on my everbearing Italian fig plant that was purchased and planted a couple months ago. I test spray it with some liquid copper today, and I will spray it completely on Tuesday evening.
Did it go into dormancy for winter? I'm curious if it's an overwintered cutting. Normally, it should be pushing out fresh leaves now, so if it's rusty, that makes me think they're last year's leaves.
@@TheMillennialGardener I purchased it a couple months ago, and it had no leaves. The leaves came out a couple weeks after planting it.
I have rust on small rooted fig plant I ordered online. It came to me looking healthy but quickly developed the problem. I just sprayed a little Daconil on it. Crossing my fingers it will continue growing.
Thanks for the info. I have 2 brown turkeys that are about 12 years old. Last year was the first year I had rust…..on both. It was at the end of the year so all I did was thin out branches as the local Ag extension suggested. Well it’s early season, I have a lot of figs but also rust. Frustrating. I see this video was done about 2 years ago so I was wondering if you have any new thoughts on treatment ? Would organic fertilizer or other nutrients stave off this blight? Healthier trees have a better chance of fighting off disease. Thank you
Amazing content!
Subbed!!
Thanks for subbing! I really appreciate you watching.
That’s hella funny I just coincidentally popped by to watch this on October 18th! Haha
Excellent info. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
I have a 3 year old celeste. It just put on a whole new round of fruit. I was surprised considering what I have learned so far.
I planted a young Chicago Hardy fig tree earlier this spring. It’s still small but has tons of leaves and about a dozen large green figs on it. This morning I found numerous leaves spotted with this rust. I’m in south Mississippi and we’ve been getting numerous daily rains for over a week now. Not sure if there’s anything I can do or should do at this point. Any thoughts??
yeah i coulda used this bit of info a while ago .
well , good to know it now i suppose .
I have same type of fig in SELF WATERING POTS and some in regular pots that have drain at the bottom, those in self watering pots do not have rust but those in regular pots started to have rust..... the problem is water moisture and temperature in regular pots are not stable....put more water in until soil get thoroughly wet once then add fertilizer and water regularly will help
I just had some leaf Rust on my young Blueberry bushes.
Zone 5b here starting to grow Chicago Fig in a pot. It’s October and my fig tree has fig rust and I guess that is ok
Another very good video
Thanks for watching! I appreciate it.
Me too! I’m in zone 9b, tiny freckles of rust on some leaves on my very young trees. Still 90 degrees here in California and seeing new growth on my babies. I use copper on my olive trees to combat mites so I will be using the copper spray next spring.♥️
If all you have are tiny speckles, you're probably fine since your season will be coming to an end within the next 45 days or so. Chances are, by the time the rust gets bad enough to cause leaf drop, it'll be too late in the season to ripen figs worth eating, anyway.
Where are you located Theresa?
@@kcwilcox1 SF Bay Area. You?
Thanks for the video! I have some of the rust spots as well also how old are your figs in the 5 gallon buckets and how long you think you can keep them in there before uppotting to a larger container? also I need to prune my 1 year old trees some of them reached 6ft from last winter cuttings , my Smith went from a little cutting thingy straight up to 6ft and no branches..1-1/4" trunk to 3/4" thick at the top, how much do you prune? every video I find on YT they show the trees already pruned . could you do a real time video of pruning? that will be greatly appreciated!
NJ HW the trees are anywhere from 1-2 years old. Many will have to be root pruned this winter. I don’t have a video on it yet because I haven’t had to do it yet, but I will have to this winter. When it comes time, I will film the process.
Hi. I’m in zone 6a in Canada. I kept my tree outside until the leaves dropped, then brought it in the house, 65F, for November thru March. The tree leafed out, but because it was not getting enough light the leaves were very leggy. Now it has developed leaf rust, is dropping leaves, and I don’t know what to expect. Is it a goner? Should it cut back and wait for new growth?
Just watched some of your older videos. I have a celeste fig tree potted and brought in and out for 3 years. This year in the spring I planted it outside (central Long Island zone 7a). The tree went into shock but came back strong and produced over 100 figs. The tree is about 5ft tall/wide with about a 2-1/2" single trunk many branches. My question has to do with the winter and the fig production next year. I would rather not get involved with wrapping/protecting. Is that a mistake, can the tree handle the winter, will my fig harvest be significantly less next year? Thank you.
Ever year my plants die back to the ground the fruit production suffers. I'm going to start cutting them back far enough that I can put a garbage bag and bucket or tote over them.
Question 🙋♀️ it’s spring here is Delaware I moved my container figs outside now they have rust what should/can I do!!!
Hi there, thanks for this video! I have a small fig plant in a pot, grown from a cutting. In the spring of this year, it had seven beautiful, healthy leaves, but as the heat and humidity ramped up here in Eastern PA, the leaves started to get rust spots. The leaves are all now dead, and it's only mid-July. Should I consider the plant to be dead, or just dormant? I got it in spring 2020, and it survived the winter up in my attic, with very rare watering, in a dormant state, then leafed out this spring. Should I bring it indoors now and treat it as dormant, in the hope that it will leaf out again next spring? Thanks in advance for your help.
I have two fig trees that I just recently planted about eight months ago, and I thought they had completely died because of fig rust. Fortunately they came back, but the rust is back. I’m not going to worry too much about it now because were in November, but I really think that I’m going to get a really strong fungicide. Your trees should be fine though.
I live in central Florida and the only place I can plant in ground they will only get evening sun, Should I just leave them in pots or you think they will grow well in that area ? I have blueberries also witch ones would do better in evening sun
I just bought and repotted a new little fig tree, it was ok then fig rust is kicking in. I'm in ct zone 6. What can I do? I haven't had a chance to bring it outdoors with my other citrus plants.
If i send a couple pics can you help identify problem with leaves. I have a celeste fig in a pot in florida.
Good video, My trees are doing it now as well, So not too concerned. It is hard to see all the figs that are left over with not enough time to ripen, such is life. looking for a better crop next year as the trees gain some age.
In my opinion, it is better to have fig trees so productive that they produce more than our season can handle than the other way around. What pains me is when I have bare trees in August. There was so much more time! It’s a good problem to have, which is why I plant many varieties. Gotta extend that season.
@@TheMillennialGardener Spoken like a true optimist. You are very right Sir. I am considering using my Chicago Hardy tree as a tester to see if I put it in my green house (heated) it may or may not ripen what is left on it. I am not particularly attached to this one, not that it would ruin it. I do have my Golden Goji berries in there now and another very small fig tree. We shall see.
I also. But your potted Big's are more stressed than your ingrown figs which is causing them to be more prone to rest. I went away for a week and my husband forgot to water everything and I came back in my Sig is yellowing on a few leaves and showing signs of rest for the first time. I blame stress from not getting any water in 100-degree temperatures for a week
I have a few fig trees that are planted in the ground on my property. One of them have produced figs twice but they fell off before they become ripe. I have a video of my fig trees on my CZcams. For the most part they look healthy.
You need mulch.
Have a question I am in Fl, my new fig is browning in August, is this ok or to early for my area to lose leaves???
You're right. Both stable moisture AND soil temperature affects plant health. Most plants do 100% better in-ground.
Usually, that's absolutely true. This year, my in-ground figs got a terrible case of rust, though. We went about 7 days in a row in August where it didn't rain. I figured - no problem for established in-ground fig trees. Well, my container figs did well because I had to water them every day, but my in-ground figs went through drought stress. They wilted and lost most of their leaves. It was pretty crippling, especially since those trees got hit by a late freeze (whereas the container figs were protected). This was a weird year where my in-ground figs did very poorly, and my container figs did very well. But usually, yes, in-ground is better.
Very informative video. Thank you! 2 questions, please: Once all the rusted leaves drop and new growth occurs next season, is there rust automatically or does rust develop based on the conditions? Does the fig rust spread to other fig trees or other plants? Kind regards.
I recommend you to go to his latest video and tell him that in a comment because he won't respond because this video is 1 year old
Since there's sulfur in plant food would foliar feeding be a good preventative? That'd be a neat little side by side experiment.
The sulfur in plant food is a different compound than what's found in wettable sulfur. Sulfur in plants is a "secondary macronutrient," so quantities are very low. The wettable sulfur powder is high concentration. I wouldn't expect a synthetic fertilizer to be very protective against any fungal growth. If you want a spray that does that, use the Monterrey Complete Disease Control I have linked in my Amazon Storefront. That's a natural bacteria that helps prevent disease. In my experience, it's a better preventative spray than a curative spray.
Its February here in central my first year growing I took all the bad leaves off that were bad n it started growing new leaves faster I guess I was lucky
Super information bro from india
How about when the leaves are turn white.
My first tree. Was looking so beautiful and now the leaves has white spots and is getting dry. Any suggestions??
What about Brewing up some time to you or mixing sometime oils in water and spraying that? It's been a great antifungal for me and actually saved a bird when none of the veterinary medicines helped
In-ground really is better for the trees, isn't it? That being said, I don't have ground space for all the figs I collect. 😅
Thank you for the info, I need to get some of that liquid copper concentrate now.
I'm pretty sure my fig trees are a bit screwed, because most of them seem to have rust. One of them is pretty gnarly. I bought them from lowes and tossed them in the ground, and it seems like they're struggling with these humid and slightly rainy days.
Could you tell me which copper you use and what concentrate you mix it at? I haven’t found one that lists figs in the list of plants/directions. Thanks!
Nordox, Cuprofix,or anything labeled Bordeaux solution. I use Nordox and it withstands heavy rains.
Great videos. I live in zone 7a and we have had lots of rain this summer. My in ground fig is showing signs of rust. I purchased the Southern AG liquid copper. The directions do not specify for figs. What concentration do you use? Thank you.
I would just use an average concentration for something in between. I think most of them call for something like 1.5-3Tbsp/gal, but I can't remember for sure. Be more on the conservative side.
Thank you for your help. I actually spoke with a representative from Southern AG and he recommended 4 tsp/gal.
I see fig rust in the new cuttings that have put on first leaves..its only June 1st....going to find some copper
What about using a baking soda soap mixture, could be better than copper sulphate as copper can change soil chemistry.
It’s November in south Florida. Can you do a video explaining why all 6 of my fig trees (in pots) have a lot of leaves and several have small fig bulbs. All six are under a year old. Should I remove the leaves and Breba? Why aren’t the leaves dying? Some trees have fig rust but also have green leaves. If they are growing figlets now, will they fruit in the fall?
Fig trees are deciduous trees endemic to temperate zones. The reason why your figs are behaving oddly in your climate is you are far out of their native range. In their native range, they would be entering dormancy and likely would have been completely defoliated by a frost and the short days of autumn by now. Your trees don't experience those austere seasonal shifts, so their biological calendars are out of whack. I do not have much experience with your climate. However, you are going to want to prune the trees during your peak "cool season" to try and reset them. That, for you, will probably be mid-January. I believe that's when Florida growers often cut back their trees. It's up to you if you want to leave the breba, but I would definitely prune them back. If you have cold nights coming up in the 40's or 30's, I'd leave them outside to be exposed to the cold as much as possible. So far, my trees have all been hit by 25F, 26F and 28F nights in the past week. I let them take those temps completely unprotected. They are finally defoliating, as they should.
What are your thoughts on using a "self watering container" for the figs? I have some in pots for several years now and I am thinking of trying a self watering pot. Traveling and not being able to keep a consistent watering schedule have been problematic in the past. I think I should be able to get at least a week of water for them in the summer going this route.
I use self watering containers for citrus and love them. I would love to use them for figs, but I can't find them large enough for a decent price. Figs grow very, very vigorously (much faster than citrus), but if you can find a 10+ gallon container that's self-watering for a good price, I'd totally be on board.
Why not build one? Now I have opened a can of worms 😆
Thanks....🌞👨🌾
Thanks for watching!
Thank you, Another great video. I experienced rust for the first time this season. I treated with copper BUT as you mentioned I was to late! But, now I know. May I ask you what your first name is? Thanks again from Massachusetts! Yo Dale !!!
Thanks for watching. It's Anthony. Dale says hi.
@@TheMillennialGardener We something in common besides figs and veggies. My dad, I, my son and grandson are all named Anthony and my dogs name is Nino ! Take care !
My father is Anthony, and his father as well. We Italians aren’t very creative when it comes to names 😂 Just look at our figs. They’re such creative names like “Black Fig” and “Green Fig” when you translate them.
Great video and very informative. Can I plant fig trees in the ground in zone 6, or should they stay in containers and be brought inside during the harsh winters?
I would not plant a fig tree in Zone 6 in the fall. Figs are going to have 100% dieback in Zone 6 almost every season, unless they are well-protected. If you plant it now, the roots won’t have time to establish, and there is a high probability the tree will be killed. Plant in the spring after your last frost so the roots have all season to establish, and if the tree is killed to the ground the following year, it’ll grow back from the roots.
@@TheMillennialGardener Ok that makes perfect sense. Thank you so much for your response!
I have a dwarf fig tree my mom bought me about 5 yrs ago i keep it in a big planter that i put in garage for winter since I'm in NY,it grew pretty tall and gets lots of leaves,about 6ft,never produced figs,should i trim it down
If you aren't getting any figs, it's probably because either:
1. You aren't fertilizing it enough. Try my fertilizing tutorial playlist here: czcams.com/play/PL1gY7BoYBGIFNbJEUdApbh_E57uNBLG2j.html
2. It isn't getting enough sun. Figs need an absolute minimum of 6 hours of uninterrupted, unfiltered sun every day, but 8-12 hours will be superior.
3. It's root bound and you need to remove it while it's dormant, cut the root back and re-pot it in fresh mix, then "rejuvination prune it," which simply means pruning it back heavily during dormancy.
Hi my fig tree was so green and beautiful, but now all the leaves have rust and falling off . I live in south FL. What would you recommend? Should I cut all the leaves ? I got the tree this past summer . I see you mention in the Fall , but it started now in January and February .
Fig trees are deciduous, so they will lose their leaves every season. Since you're in South Florida, it probably doesn't get cold and dark enough to defoliate the tree until the dead of winter since you're so far south of the tree's native latitude. Therefore, my GUESS is it's just behind schedule and it's going to defoliate and push out new growth in the "real Spring." I honestly wouldn't worry about it. My trees become overtaken by rust in November and are bare by Christmas. My guess is you're just behind schedule since you don't get a real winter.
Just bought fig tree it’s in a relatively small pot. But it’s starting to rust. I have it in a non direct sun area. How can I avoid this it’s May. It’s a baby still.
Fungus diseases like powdery mildow and rust are invading my fig trees . Would it help if I mix some fungicide powder into the soil surrounding the roots
No. The fungal disease is in the leaves. Where are you located? Figs are deciduous trees, so they must lose their leaves in the winter. If you live in a more tropical climate, your tree will still lose its leaves periodically. Rust generally isn't a problem when it comes in the fall. Figs must be defoliated and produce new green leaves for new growth, so rust actually helps the tree shed its leaves and "refresh" itself. The only time rust is a problem is when it comes very early in spring and early summer because if the trees lose their leaves before they can ripen the fruits, the fruits won't ripen because the tree won't absorb any energy from the sunlight. If your tree isn't ripening fruits right now, it doesn't need the leaves and will make new ones come spring.
Ditto my trees in ground did much better with fig rust as well Im in Kentucky we get a lot of rain and humid.
Bluegrass Diggers good to hear. Thanks for watching!
Question, if a tree gets leaf rust one season, does that mean it will always get leaf rust every season? Or, maybe I should ask, is that tree infected for life?
ive read also that sulfur kills the Spanish Moss if it gets on it from drift etc
There is a lot of Spanish moss that grows in the woods here, but not around me. It grows along the rivers all over the oaks and cypress. It's beautiful, but I'm happy to say my area is free of it.
Is fig rust contagious and can it spread to other at risk tree species? My fig always looks lovely for the first few months in the spring but starts rusting when the humidity rises at the beginning of monsoon season. I'm in a high desert region and would like to avoid planting potentially susceptible species if it can spread from plant to plant easily.
The fungus that causes rust is in the air, so there is little you can do to stop your plants from getting it. You can delay it by applying a liquid copper fungicide in May before the problem begins every 14 days preemptively. However, if you aren’t getting signs of rust until late August/September, it is no big deal. Your fig quality will drop dramatically after mid-September, and rust is part of the natural defoliation process in fall. Figs are deciduous trees, so it isn’t a problem late in the season. June rust is not good, but late August rust beginning…I don’t mind that late. If it doesn’t manifest til late August, it won’t really cause damage til October, and it is too late for good figs by then.
👍👍👍
Does the copper concentrate you have in your Amazon store actually list figs and how to treat them? I bought another one on Amazon and it doesn’t list figs :(
I don’t think that is of consequence so long as you dilute it properly, perhaps look at another spray copper that lists figs, compare and match.
Do you use horticultural dormant oil in the late winter/early spring on your figs?
I have not used that in the past. I leave my figs outside all winter. I haven't had to bring them in yet, but we'll see how this winter goes. Last winter, we had no nights in the teens. That could change this winter.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thanks! I spray all my other trees with it in January/March so I sprayed my figs this year. I figured there’s no harm.
If you store them, that's probably a good idea because you may overwinter pests in a predatorless storage environment. Since mine are exposed 365 days a year, I don't worry because the predators should, in theory, get to any pests. However, it probably wouldn't hurt.
I live in San Diego it doesn’t get that cold here and I have rust what do I do?
Figs are deciduous trees from temperate zones that must lose their leaves each winter and go through a period of dormancy. Since you don't get frost to defoliate your trees, you need to rely on rust and the short days of winter to weaken the trees so they shed their leaves. This is a natural process. You shouldn't do anything. Let them defoliate naturally. They should be close to, if not totally bare by now.
The copper can negatively impact the enviro. I removed the leaves with rust and sprayed neem oil in the evenings when the bees stop foraging. I also heard good things about bacillus subtilis and just got Serenade from Amz. I'm new to gardening and I've relied mostly on neem oil and castille soap that's fixed most things (slowed down/prevent blight, powdery mildew, rust) but I wonder if you've heard of or tried bacillus subtilis. Either way, thank you for the video. I'm in 9a so even if things take a turn for the worst, there's always next season!
I don't buy that the copper will negatively impact the environment. You would have to pour a concentrated amount directly into a water source, or to a gutter that leads to a stream. Liquid copper concentrations for pesticide treatment equate to about 2 Tablespoons per gallon once every 7-10 days during the rust season. That's an inconsequential amount of copper, especially when you weigh it against the benefits. The more food you can grow at home, the less you will have to buy, so extending your growing season means you're actually positively impacting the environment by growing less food. It's not a zero sum game. You using natural anti-fungals to grow more food actually is a net benefit when you subtract all the much less sustainably grown foods from grocery stores you now won't be consuming.
I've used Serenade in the past. I've found it to be less effective, particularly on tomatoes. Especially once a disease grabs hold. I have not tried it on my figs. If you live in a climate with less disease pressure, you may have luck with Serenade, but pressure is extremely high here and I don't find it potent enough. Also, since it is a living bacteria, it's prone to spoilage, so you need to store it indoors during the summer. It's also 2-3 times more expensive than copper. I've just found copper to be more effective, easier to store during the summer and more cost effective.
I'm in 9a, Texas. The pressure is real. I suppose if you don't consider how the copper is harvested, sure, maybe not an issue but I personally am concerned with how the mining undustry negatively affects the balance of our ecosystems that we rely on. To each their own. I understand it's not an immediate concern because it's not in your backyard and as long as we're just worried about concentrations on individual scale (and not worrying about how other gardeners - esp new ones) then sure nothing to worry about. Like I said, thanks for the vid, I'll see how Serenade does in my humid, hot, Texas fall. Things look ok so far but I'll def be ready to PREVENT the rust next year. I bought my fig from a nursery and it had it already so that's that. Cheers.
Sue I understand, I really do. I’m not being dismissive. I’m just weighing my opinions. Yes, the copper is a natural resource that is mined an can be destructive, but the alternative is get in my car made out of dozens of mined metals, manufactured plastics, and countless poisonous fluids, fill the tank with gasoline and drive to the grocery store and buy commercially farmed produce. I truly believe that gardening is one of the healthiest things we can do - for our mind, body and the planet. We still may have to use the occasional chemical to maximize our harvest or deal with pests and diseases, but it is so much better than the grocery store alternative, I won’t let “perfect” be the enemy of “good,” as they say.
I live in Barbados and I noticed my Fig Tree has rust - is this something I should be concerned about since we only have summer all year round with wet and dry periods? It is currently wet as we are coming out of the hurricane season but prior to the rains coming we were experiencing a fairly severe drought. My tree is in ground and is currently in a growth stage but the older leaves have the rust spots.
Even though you are growing a fig in the tropics, it will still have to go through a period where it loses its leaves, pauses for a moment to recollect its energy and restart its life cycle again with new, green growth. I would anticipate the tree to begin losing its leaves. If the tree doesn't drop its leaves soon enough, you may want to consider manually removing all the leaves to force all new growth. That should act as a sort of "reset" switch. I wouldn't worry about it all because fig leaves are only designed to survive a few months and be replaced.
I live in Dominica where we get more rain than Barbados. Last year I got a good crop of figs, but this year practically none. The figs loose their leaves during the dry season, approx 3 months, and now in the wet season because of fig rust. I will try and remove the dead leaves as another video suggested. I would rather not treat with fungicide but may have no other option.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thank you! I was beginning to worry that I was doing something wrong.
By the way - do you know of any growers who ship cuttings to Barbados? We have very limited variety here on the island and I would really love to try some others.
@@foreignapes have you tried manually removing the leaves and figs in the middle of your wet season to see if you can trick the fig into going into dormancy then and coming out of dormancy during the dry season? It may be worth a try since day length and temperatures don't change much during the year on Dominica, but rainfall patterns are bad for figs April to September but excellent during the drier season.
If there's no chance of the rest of your Smith are going to ripen why leave them on the tree? Wouldn't they just be pulling energy and unecessarily
When using wettable sulfur can you please advise on dosage per gallon of water?
It is going to depend on the product you buy. Concentrations will vary by brand, so you must carefully read the instructions. The concentrations vary based on what fruit tree you use, and they usually have dozens of different concentrations listed depending on the fruit tree. If it does not specifically list fig trees, choose something conservative on the lower-to-mid end of the recommendations.
@@TheMillennialGardener yeah fig tree wasn't mentioned and I did exactly what you said which go conservative and did my first foliar spray application.
Thank you for the reply Anthony, it is very much appreciated.
Do you recommend to cover my fig under a shed during the winter? Or it doesn't matter?
It depends on the zone. If you're in Zone 7 or colder, figs usually need protection. Zone 7a or below, in-ground fig trees usually need to be wrapped, or they'll face significant or total dieback. No figs should be left unprotected outside all year in Zone 7 or below, because the roots could freeze through. If the roots freeze through into the teens, the entire tree could die. If you're in Zone 8 or above, in-ground trees usually don't require protection, and container trees can be fine pushed up against a warm wall of a house or in some other sheltered location. I've never really protected my potted trees, and my in-ground trees receive no protection here in Zone 8a.
@@TheMillennialGardener I really appreciate it man, thanks 🙏🏼
Oke
Over watering seems to be my problem with my other plants and vegetables. Have to stop over watering.
It's a tough thing to do. It seems "safer" to water than to not during this hot part of the year, but too much is certainly not good. Overwatered trees lead to yellow leaves, and they get rust easily.
If it’s minimal early in the year why not remove the affected leaves. I get to have leaves for fig production, but a few shouldn’t hurt.
I generally don't remove leaves on my fig trees. They will naturally drop on their own because they're deciduous. Pulling them off too early just makes them bleed sap, so I try and avoid that.
My figs in pots(2) are growing nicely but the fruit is turning black and wrinkled - help please!
I’m not sure what you mean. Where are you located?
@@TheMillennialGardener Sorry, - should have provided more info. I’m in Australia - we have had weeks of rain, now it’s hot with high humidity. The figs are about half grown and still hard. Then the skin starts to darken ), this spreads and the fig becomes black and shrivelled. Now the leaves are becoming mottled and dropping.
The tree is in a pot and I know I have left too many branches so must harden my resolve and give it a prune.
Last year I did get a small number of very nice figs from it. I think the possums and bower birds took a few.
I followed your instructions for striking cuttings and had an 8 out of 10 success rate. They have now been potted on to mid size pots.
I did get distracted in November and December as I’m a dog photographer and was photographing Christmas sessions non stop. My fertilising regime got
neglected.
Thank you so much for replying. I am a dedicated fan.
I get some rust on my new fig tree what should I do it has figs on it
I have a follow-up on it here: czcams.com/video/ANovRTR_lS4/video.html
I assume you're in the Southern Hemisphere? Possibly Australia? I get rust in September, and your "March" is my "September," so it looks to be right on schedule. They always get rust this time of year, so there is probably nothing to worry about. Rust helps the trees defoliate, and they're deciduous trees, so it's just part of the life cycle. Rust is only bad if it happens in late spring because it'll be too early and cause leaf drop, but fall rust is no problem and natural.
@@TheMillennialGardener I'm in Florida
I found that all my fig trees have Fig Mosaic virus. Any solution?
Almost all fig trees have FMV. Generally, it's very easily managed and if your tree is healthy and well-fed, you shouldn't even notice it. The way you beat FMV is by planting the fig tree in fertile soil with at least 8+ hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight a day, giving it plenty of fertilizer and if the tree is in-ground, heavily amend the tree with good compost and a layer of mulch. Providing the fig tree with an abundance of nutrients will allow the tree to suppress the virus to the point where it isn't detectable in most cases. Give my fig fertilizing playlist a watch if you need more info: czcams.com/play/PL1gY7BoYBGIFNbJEUdApbh_E57uNBLG2j.html
@@TheMillennialGardener thank you 😊
@@ghadamohd3185 you’re welcome.
Do you make fig newtons ? Are you the fig newton guy ? It’s ok if your are.
I don’t really care for them. Funny thing is a Fig Newton doesn’t taste like a fig. Dried caprified figs have a totally different flavor, nothing like fresh.
Yahshua - you know Him as Jesus - was born to a virgin, turned water to wine, taught, healed the sick, raised the dead, casted out demons, walked on water, calmed the storm, and fed a crowd of thousands with a few fish and a few loaves of bread, among many other things. He was killed on the cross as payment for the sins of all mankind, three days later He rose from the dead. Forty days later He ascended into heaven where He sits at the right hand of the Father. He is returning very soon, but before He does, Satan, the devil, is coming to pretend to be Jesus/God. Satan is an angel, and he will have certain supernatural powers with which to try to fool everyone. He will, for example, be able to make fire come down from heaven in the sight of men. He will only be on earth a short time before the real King of Kings, Jesus Christ, God in the flesh, returns. When the real Jesus comes we will all be transformed into our spiritual bodies at the same moment. Jesus came in the flesh to offer forgiveness of sins and eternal life to anyone who believes and calls on His precious name!
if thou shalt confess with thy mouth the Lord Jesus, and shalt believe in thine heart that God hath raised him from the dead, thou shalt be saved. - Romans 10:9
Now when Jesus was in Bethany, in the house of Simon the leper, There came unto him a woman having an alabaster box of very precious ointment, and poured it on his head, as he sat at meat. But when his disciples saw it, they had indignation, saying, To what purpose is this waste? For this ointment might have been sold for much, and given to the poor. When Jesus understood it, he said unto them, Why trouble ye the woman? for she hath wrought a good work upon me. For ye have the poor always with you; but me ye have not always. For in that she hath poured this ointment on my body, she did it for my burial. Verily I say unto you, Wheresoever this gospel shall be preached in the whole world, there shall also this, that this woman hath done, be told for a memorial of her. -- Matthew 26:6-13
Seek ye the LORD while he may be found, call ye upon him while he is near: Let the wicked forsake his way, and the unrighteous man his thoughts: and let him return unto the LORD, and he will have mercy upon him; and to our God, for he will abundantly pardon.
To anoint your self, the sick, or a building for spiritual protection:
Get a small bottle of olive oil and pour off a small amount into a smaller vessel like a vial or baby food jar. Use the rest of the bottle for cooking. Ask the Lord to bless your vial of oil in Jesus name. Anoint yourself with the oil by placing a dab of oil on tip of finger and touch it to your forehead, and ask the Lord to bless you/heal you. Place a dab of oil on your finger and anoint the door posts and order all negativity and evil out of the house, and order that nothing negative or evil can enter into your home including piggybacking on a person entering, order it to be so in the name of Jesus. Anoint all potential entrances to your home. To anoint the sick, place oil on tip of finger and touch it to the head of the sick and say a prayer of healing over them in Jesus name. See James Chapter 5:14-15.
Why don’t you just plant your trees ?
Fig trees come from the Mediterranean where it does not rain all summer. This is opposite of my climate. I mention in most of my videos how important it is to trial your figs before you plant them, because if you plant them without testing them, you may plant a tree where all your fruits will rot. I have about 20 trees that will not work in my climate or that I don’t care for. It would’ve been a disaster to plant them without testing them first. Always test before planting, unless you’re sure you really want that variety.
The information was good but there was an extreme overabundance of unnecessary talking. At least 75% of the talking was repetitive or superfulous.
The man took his time and expertise to share for free to whomever is interested. He's not asking for a communication class critique. Proper manners would suggest simply moving on to the next video, no need to offer your "wisdom."