Many thanks for making this video. I used it tonight at the shop and had my valve body apart with no fear of where the check balls and valves go. In the end, cleaning the valve body and shift solenoids (plus new fluid and filter) made a massive difference in the operation of the transmission. Could not have done it without your help. Literally had the video running while the valve body was on the bench and away we went. Thank you very much, it's as if I have a new transmission!
Gary, no need to answer previous comment. Upon further reading I saw your reply stating you used Trans Teck. I can not say how much your video has helped me with the information you provided in the brake down and assembly. Excellent!!!!!!!!!!!! Your on my X-MAS list this year.Thanks a million.
You know the only thing i can think of is, if you call trans tec(the company) and ask tm to send out the sub kit, not sure what they will do but its worth a try.
I am located in Kissimmee FL. I ordered the overhaul kit Monday ere Saturday. . My only problem is finding a shop close to my area that uses the autologic or Star scanner.
love the videos. best thing is you are not one of those who start by listing tools that you need for the job and all that formal tutorial talk. you speak as if you are talking to the owner of the car. excellent. just excellent
I wonder why you dont clean each of the check-valves individually ? Do you think adding a retrofit ATF filter in the cooler return line is good preventive measure???
Hey Gary I was reading about the 722.9 trannies have a 2010 Mercedes E350 and I have the P0748 code. Flushed cleaned the solenoids, used magnet, put it back and get limp mode and P0748 K1 solenoid. Took it apart and cleaned again, tested resistance 5.7 most of them, tested for clicking 12v for the blue solenoids, the black act different when 12v is applied. So at this point I did not open the TB to clean I am sure it is like the one you did. Is this something that can cause the code and limp. Or is the conductor plate the issue. Looked online and P0748 is not listed in the conductor plate codes. Appreciate what you're doing And would like to know your thoughts on this. I did not check the solenoid for pressure. Can the dirty valve body cause the code, or the plate and/ or k1 solenoid.
Here's a fun CHUNK of information: new VGS3s are PN 000 901 8008. VGS4s were briefly a thing in the 212s and 166s before they switched to 9-speeds. 724/725 TCMs are already failing after only five years. If you are here doing research for a MB, do yourself a favor and buy yourself one that's pre-OBDII, or at least one with a 722.6. Mercedes transmissions will last forever with good maintenance. The electronics will fail at least once or twice.
Hello great video!! I recently picked up a 200 6CLS 500 with a known transmission issue. Seller stated he took it to the dealership when the issue started which was only having R D1 & D2 when The transmission would attempt to make the shift from 2 - 3 there was no gear engagement and the RPMs would spike. I was able to pull The following codes 0730 / 2505 / 2502 / P210F6-016 related to the transmission. I have done a decent amount of Research regarding the 722.9. When digging into the codes mentioned above a little further and was able to find a document showing what solenoids were called upon for each gear from what I can gather so far it looks like my issue service is K1 one is to activate. My troubleshooting process so far has been as follows > checked the connection at the transmission it was wet so I cleaned and dried it > cleared fault codes same problem remained and displayed same fault codes was unable to pull freeze frame data > checked transmission fluid level and was short by a little less than 1/2 qt topped it off, cleared codes > same problem remained and displayed same fault codes > Dropped the pan discovered one rectangular slotted magnet when viewing videos of others I’ve seen Additional magnets > rectangular magnet was pretty dirty but no shavings and or chunks (previous owner stated the dealership flushed the transmission so I would assume they cleaned any shavings but was not mentioned to me by the seller) > I now have the valve body on the bench all of the contact points for the solenoids are dirty but the screens are clear of any major debris buildup > all solenoids show a resistance of 5 ohms //// is it safe to put 12 V to the solenoid’s to check their function? I do know and understand that these transmissions especially the early version are problematic and if the conductor plate needs replaced it is best to replace with a newer plate and valve body as well as the virginizing > personalizing > activating process. I wont go to the dealer, so I'm considering Abrites if programming is needed. At this point I am looking for some advice from the experts as to what else I can look at when I separate the valve body to clean it up, additional and or better troubleshooting procedures etc... I am burnt out from all of the 722.9 reading and video watching!
@@GaryFerraro 2505 = hydraulic fault in transmission (engaging shift element does not engage) 2502 = the gear is implausible or the transmission is slipping // Correct no 2-3 shift when it attempt to go from 2-3 there is nothing there just revs as if it were in neutral. I have the valve body on the bench it was pretty dirty. I've read that some guys were using brake kleen to clean the conductor plate is that safe for these? what would you recommend to clean the plate with (from off the shelf)? The pan wasn't bad but as stated above I don't know what came out when the previous owner had it changed
@@GaryFerrarohi man ,have you information about actual oil pressure for this gearbox ?i can pull out pressure data for every solenoid by Das ,we replace speed sensor on conductor plate ,after no movements ,no codes ..
Hi Gary, thanks for the video! I'm about to do my 3rd trans service on my 722.9 and would like to clean the valve body out (again) as the first time I did it I noticed a LOT of debris and it made a huge difference. This time it's getting the updated (deeper) pan and the updated filter. Anyway, I'd like to replace the solenoid O-rings this time. Do you have any idea what size they are? I did find a O-ring kit for them but am up in Canada and it's the better part of $100 to get them here !!
Hi Bob, I do not know the exact size of them, There are transmission suppliers in Canda, i think one of them is King-o-matic have you checked to see if they have?
hi gary,on a 05 clk, will a reprogramed7332 vgs work to replace a 6732 vgs with out replacing valve body ? thanks so much for your vids, best on youtube !!
05 clk are you sure it's a 722.9? can you give me the year make model and engine size, i can look it up for you. If it is a 722.9 it may be version one, for this the valvebody and plate may have to be replaced
Awesome video with great detail and explanation of your thought process Gary! Where does a DIYer like myself purchase an O-ring kit for the solenoids/ speed sensor/ pass through plug for the wiring harness from?
gary it is a 722.9 in a 2005 clk 500 a/209-c/209 convert . i purchased a replacment vgs #7332 that was reprogramed to my car vin# and told it would replace my vgs 6732,do you think thats true ? thanks very much for your help.
Hi Very hard work and informative.it would have been really helpful if you could show us close up of check valves and how to check them. Secondly would appreciate if you could mention exact torque specs specified by manufacturer for conductor plate and valve body bolts. Last but not least did you washed conductor plate? Can we check manually just by inspecting if solenoid is good? Appreciate your reply
I don't really wash the conductor plate, I rinse it with mineral spirits and let it drip, quick rinse. I torque the valve body halves to around 90 inch pounds and the plate to 70 inch pounds, i'm not sure of exact specs but it's very close. haven't really had issues with those torque specs
Hi Gary, Perhaps my torque wrench is in need of calibration or i did not have it locked, but I ended up snapping a valve body bolt. Since these appear to be aluminum, should the whole set be replaced anyway? Best, Joe
i have 724.208 it shows an error called pressure oil pressure switch C sensor fault in conductor plate. P087000 , Intermitantly . car drives fine, and no issues. Engine check comes once in a while and goes away. dealer wants to replace plate, should i replace valve body too.. TIA
Hi Gary I have a problem with my transmission.w221 s350 722.9.It wouldnt shift to 4th gear and above.1st,2nd and 3rd is fine.It has a fault code 0893(Hydraulic fault in transmission-disengaging shift element does not disengage).I have replaced the atf and filter and clear codes but no improvement. Appreciate your advice and feedback.
Did you get your transmission fixed? I have this very same code. Not even the dealer has seen this one before. They are telling me I need a new transmission. I’m going to go pick it up today and try cleaning the solenoids. I’m Really hopeful that you can point me in the right direction
Gary.. What do you charge to have this overhall done on the 722.9 valvebody ? I have an S class.. 2004.. Interested in doing this.. I have no lights showing speed sensor issues or anything. .I just would like to do this for basic maintenance .
You really wouldn't have to do this if all is working ok, i would just service the trans, changing the filter, pan gasket and replace the fluid that comes out
old viscous ATF causing not enough pressure causing clutch to slip and warp rings loose friction material help shave the bearings and gears So either you take it easy with the clutches or you want to change oil super early to flush suspended junk. ... How about adding an extra filter in the cooler lines with secured connections. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Gary, awesome video! I have my valve body apart for cleaning. Before I tackled cleaning I was going to map out the balls and valves. I noticed that I have 6 check valves however. Also the lower valve body has three small check valves as well. The plate reads Continental VSG3-NAG2 for a '13 c63 amg. Would you happen to know where I could find a diagram for this application?
great and very informative..just how about the senolieds? not recommend to replace them by new ?or how can I make sure they are functioning well? thanks again for ur great video.
Supposedly the solenoid flow rate is programmed into the ECU and if you change it you may have problems. Im sure if you have a dead solenoid its worth a shot. They can be bought separately
Bonjour monsieur j'ai fait le même travail que vous mais sauf j'ai un problème je trouve pas le couple de serrage des vis des valves sur les côtés je retirer les plaques à l'intérieur il y a des ressorts et des valves est-ce que vous pouvez m'aider s'il vous plaît merci cordialement
Hi Gary, awesome video. I would really appreciate if you could assist me with a few things. Firstly, could you please indicate what the grease was that you used on the solenoids and if you could please direct me to the seals kids you used, or where they ordered from the dealer?? thx again..
The grease i used is Transgel or Assembly goo (same thing) If you need an overhaul kit, i purchase from Transtar and they have an online ordering system called Transend WWW.Transtar1.com is the website They sell the grease too, there part number is M465TB, not sure part number for overhaul kit.
Great video. But I need your help>. Where can I purchase the solenoid orings. Can you please provide the dealer who sells them. That's all I need to put this thing back together.
They may be hard to get unless you buy an overhaul kit, i dont know of anyone that sells them seperatly, no one will break up a kit, I buy all my parts from transtar, there web site is WWW.Transtar1.com There is another company called what ever it takes transmission parts you could try them as well. Gary
Hello, thanks to your video I have cleaned my block + plate + solenoid valves. Thank you. On the other hand, I have a doubt. It was not so easy to put the whole thing back on the car. When I installed the set on the car I paid attention to the large electrical outlet & was able to finish but I did not pay attention to the plastic B3 tube. I inserted this tube correctly & perpendicularly to its place in the block (I did not mount this tube on the gearbox) solenoid valves. So when reassembling the assembly this tube was on the assembly that I was holding in my hands. From what I understand this tube is only used to tighten the clutch in first & seventh gear. I have been driving since Sunday I haven't noticed anything in particular. If I succeeded in assembling the whole, that is to say that the plug came out well & that I was able to correctly tighten the 9 screws of the block, is it possible that this B3 tube was not mounted correctly? If this tube would have been badly mounted can we understand it without disassembly in relation to the reactions of the car?
@@GaryFerraro thank you for the answer. as I told you I have no problem neither in D nor in S on all the speeds. Does this assume that the tube has been placed correctly?
Hi Just a quick question.where manual valve comes out on conductor plate there are plastic clips inside which I believe holds the manual valve. Accidently when removing valve body.one of the plastic facing outside manual valve is broken and inside one is fine. Will there be a problem I put it back on?I can send you pic if you want me to. Please help. Thanks
Gary, quick question. On the 722.9 valve body, on the pressure regulator valves, the end cap has a screw on each one. So it looks like the pressure regulator valves might be adjustable. Can they be adjusted for a firmer shift or am I way off base?
good morning, I have a mercedes class c w204 kompressor year 2010. it has a transmission 722,695. Could you tell me if the 722.696 is compatible with my car? since it is the only one that I get
Hi Gary, i have a 722.9 on a 10' C300; last month came to slip between 3rd and 4th, we chance oil an filter and still slipping . Today appear two codes P0745 and P0749. If we perform a Pressure solenoid (3Y/8y1) change, we'll need reprograming? hablás español? Gracias
@@GaryFerraro doing a bit of work on my 07 c230 722.9 transmission and after much research a result of having 6 not 8 check valves I found this business... www.newco-autoline.de/index.php?show=zahlung > I thought I lost two check valves but it seems some 722.9 might have a configuration of six not eight check valves however I wanted to have all eight as some other 722.9 owners with the same situation stated that they added to two missing check valves and it restored the first gear bypass...Thanks for the informative video~
High I have a 2006 S500.After driving for less than 1 KM,the transmission stops shifting and the RPM goes high.I restart the car and everything works fine.Is it the speed sensor or could it be something else?Must I change the whole conductor plate? Thanks
+Joe Klesney Its called trans gel, this is a special assembly gel for transmissions, when it heats up it melts, unlike the hi temp grease which will not melt. Gary Thanks for watching
Hello Gary , Great Video , i want to thank you very much for sharing this . Im having a problem with same gearbox on w164 that has hard shifting on lovers gear especially on 2-3 and 3-2 gear , Problem is more evident on lower speed , if i accelerate hard shifting starts to dissapear . Can you give me any idea for this? thank you
Gary Ferraro ! Thank you for reply on oil was not changet but as the hardshifting is too much, i decided before changed it , to check olso something else. On star reads only this error : Code : C114 , No CAN message was received from control unit N15/7 , thank you for your help
Yes i have a friend with c4 star . This error code Code : C114 , No CAN message was received from control unit N15/7 , is static can not be deleted , there are no ather codes . only this one. when car is cold hard shifting is lower , but when car warms you when here it with ear , olso can fill on car because it to big . May be i have loosing presure from valve seals ? or only a cleaning of valves olso valve body can resolve my problem . thank you
nice video! can i just ask , are all the green solenoids the same and the black ones the same? i want to change my lockup solenoid because of hard cold shifting ive changed my TCU and the guy said he programmed all the gears properly but 2nd to 3rd to a hard shift
@@GaryFerraro yep ive done it using the kickdown and accelerator method for 10sec. i think it maybe the lockup clutch solenoid as the fault comes up "2783 -friction power of the torque converter lockup clutch is too high "
I found a Mercedes document that says the trans computer is adapted to the particular characteristics of each solenoid valve, and so each valve must go back into the hole it came out of. One, two or three valves can be changed for new valves without a new adaptation, but if 4 or more or changed, the computer must be adapted to the new valves.
@@GaryFerraro No way 💰💰💰. After seeing this video I cleaned both valve body and plate with solvent & compressed air. There was graphite & fine magnetic debris on upper / small section of the valve body. Only graphite on lower.
@@GaryFerraro Sorry my bad, but yeah, I had both P0717 (intermittent) and P0718. Both codes have not appeared since the last valve body & plate cleaning. If you check the gallery link below, you will find two graphs showing Y3/8n1 speed before and after cleaning.
thanks for the excellent video. one of my problems with most of 722.9 transmission with milage above 150,000 km is this: when shift from P/N to D or R, a harsh engagement is felt (like a jolt). when driving the car, shifting among all gears are smooth and fine.replacing engine/transmission mountings and flex disc did not solve the issue. there is no fault code in the TCM. Do you think overhauling the valve body (like what you did) will improve the harsh engagement.
@@farhaddadfarnia806 next week i’ll change my valve body because of 1-2-3 and 3-2-1 not shifting smoothly.. i’m curious if it will be fine.. but from p/n to r/d.. it’s fine... dont know what to say.. some people say it can be also the torque convertor... will see.. mine has 190.000km now
Hello! I have a problem, I changed the TCM of my ML500 w164 3 days ago (they programmed and adapted) but now I feel that my Mercedes does not respond the same. When accelerating, it does not lower the gears, it stays at the same RPM and when it decides to accelerate, no gear raises more than 4 thousand RPM Could it be a bad adaptation or programming?
I'm an idiot. I mixed up my solenoids and I don't know which one goes where anymore. I understand the green ones can only fit in the green port and the black and black. But I noticed there's a lot of different numbers on these solenoids. What the hell should I do?
Gary,I did replace the valve body conduct plate ,but I did clear the code with the cheap diagnostic tool but didn't clear. what am I soppose to do after replacing conduct plate.
Matt to clear the code you need to use Star or autologic Scan tool. Either of the two are will clear the TCM. Have a mechanic you trust do it for you its worth it if its not over100 to 150. That is ifyou want yur car back on the road again.
Its a real shame you did not remove the steel shavings from the solenoid mesh strainers with a magnet. Also brushing blue grease over the mesh ends of the sloenoids cant help. You are one of a few guys brave enough to learn this box, good on you.
Not that hold the valvebody together but that hold the valvebody to the case, if you can get them do it, if not you will be ok, torque is lite, maybe 70 inch pounds(not sure of the exact spec)
Thanks for making the video but please be careful with your torque specifications because I stretched a bolt. Per the manufacturer specs it's 8Nm (70.8 in-lbs) and not 85 in-lbs.
Thanks for the tip. I am having difficulty pulling the valve body off the trans. Seems to hang on the connector, and I am reluctant to push the contacts to free it. Any ideas?
It always gets stuck there, i hold the valvebody and push down from the top of the connector, you dont want to break that or you will have to replace the conductor plate/TCM.
Do you know if the valve body for a 722.6 is the same as this? Or specifically if the seperator plate is just a metal plate or is it a plate that is has a rubberized gasket on it? Im in the middle of rebuilding a 722.6 but cant find if the plate is reusable or one time use. thanks
+Ivan The Great The metal plate in the middle is just the plate, no gasket, there fine to reuse. Gary 722.6 and 722.9 plates are not the same just to give you some info, the ZF6HP26 plate is a one time use, cannot use that one over.
+Gary Ferraro Great!! Thank you, time to rebuild this thing. Have u used any transgo shift kits? I had good luck with them on a acura trans, but not sure if they are compatible with an s55 amg, their kit says that high HP cars use a large valve and they provide a small one in their kit. Thank you for the help! People like you save a lot of money for other people by showing them how to do stuff.
I use transgo kits on fords(4r100 and CD4E) not much on hondas/acuras though i do 1-2 a week. If your overhauling this 722.6 make sure you change the F1 and F2 sprags, they have a high failure rate. Wher are you located?
@@GaryFerraro Tx, how about a decent reman source? I'm up in Canada but will likely have to shop North America. I'm at the point where I'm looking at Sonnax tools just to do my own personal VB....ouch.
Hello, I have a 2007 slk55 AMG with the 722.9, I have a pretty bad flare from 2-3 when cold (almost like its going from 2 to neutral to 3 if that makes sense), as it warms up it gets much better but doesn't go away. Do you think this would help cleaning the valve body? I have no codes present.
I do not think that will help, sounds like a pressure loss or problem with the K1 clutch drum. What are you using to scan the car? just to confirm, your scanning the trans and not the engine correct?
@@GaryFerraro all I have is a icarsoft i980 scanner, it will read some(?) live data from transmission (such as requested gear, current gear, etc) I believe (I’ll have to double check) and it will let me check transmission specific codes, but there are no stored or pending codes. Would it be helpful if I could get a video in the morning of the first few 2-3 shifts of the day?
@@GaryFerraro Doing some research I would agree that it does seem to be related to k1 clutch engagement. If it’s better when warm, and in between 2-3 (does not slip when in gear, just has flare), would that lean towards an internal clutch disc being worn/bad or more towards a solenoid being clogged? Am I going to do more damage if I keep driving this for another month or so until I get the time to do this? I have not dropped the valve body yet to take a look at the solenoids.
@@GaryFerraro I checked the fluid level today after work, fluid is discolored, almost like the color of new motor oil. It doesn’t smell burnt, however I’m going to order a new filter/fluids and do a change before I go any further. Should I change/check anything since I’ll have the pan off and the filter off already anyways? I’ve replaced solenoids on the valve body before on a previous 722.9 so I’m fairly familiar with it. Thank you in advance, I can’t tell you how much I appreciate your reply.
Hello there...my problems started after the trans service...3rd gear takes a little longer to engage and if i accerate hard the car shuts down momentarally...if i go a little gentle with the pedal it seems ok...do you have an idea of what it can be? Oem fluid and filter and no error codes or events with mb star.Thank you in advance.Before the service it was fine just ordered the service because i bought it used and to be safe made a general service.its a cls. 320 cdi with the 722.9
@@GaryFerraro already did it...improved a bit but if i press hard when 3rd stars engaging the impression i have is that it doesn't completly engages and has a little slip that causes the momentaraly shutdown to prevent major damage.
@@MrAranhaman So just to confirm, the engine shuts down where you have to restart it or you get no response from the gas pedal? are there any engine codes?
@@GaryFerraroNo engine codes.Only gave one right after the service when i sadly realize i had a problem.It was code 0894(Roughly translated gear not plausible or gearbox sliping).It was erased and never showed up. It shuts down briefly a few tenths of a second only on full gas from low revs but keeps on going,it's like a "warning" of hard accelaration...its strange and it is driving me crazy.And it only hapens on 3rd.For example from a stand stop i start moving and let the gears change at 1700 or 2000rpm but if i decide to give full gas on third as soon as it engages the problem hapens...also on sequencial mode.If i let the revs go up since 1st with no kickdown and let them engage at higher rpm 3500 or so it doesn't hapen as long as it is not on full gas...passed 3rd securelly engaged i can again give it full throtle.
I have to replace my transmission. My transmission has the VGS3 conductor place. I found a used one that is the same ID as the one in my car. My question is...is it possible to swap out my original conductor place from my current transmission to the used transmission? And is there anything special I should know about?
May not be able to do that, once programmed they are married to that car, plate may have to be wiped out or a new one purchased, they aren't that bad price wise
hello, excellent video, disarm my valve box and I only found 6 check valves, is it normal? My car is ML320 diesel 2008, thank you very much for your response.
@@leonardodiazcoronado9593 Hi There are valvebodies that have 6 plastic spring loaded check valves. Make sure you put them right.please see link. Hope this helps www.google.com/search?q=722.9%20transmission%20diagram&tbm=isch&client=ms-android-samsung&hl=en-US&sa=X&ved=0CBcQtI8BKAFqFwoTCNjVkpSP1e0CFQAAAAAdAAAAABAS&biw=360&bih=560#imgrc=Agc_Uo2NnwMu2M&imgdii=okYWNFO1iMJuBM
Sorry, I have a problem with the 7 G tronic Mercedes transmission. From the results of the clean diagnosis, there is no indication, but the vehicle doesn't want to run (the transmission has no response) is the speed sensor not working properly? or is there something else. Thank you
The first indication is extreme gear shift and sometimes the car won't run. then start again ok normal, then I replace the new vgs, still no change( Sorry English translate by Google)
Sorry I meant inch pounds. They are stretch bolts and they are not tightening. Just snapped the heads. Took out the others and can see they are real stretched! Just ordered new bolts for $140.
Hello! I have a Ml 350 CDI Disel Model w164.122 gearbox 722.902 the valve body is different from the other models?the positions of the 14 metal and 2 plastic cylinders 8 check valves I'm trying to recover it I'm from Brazil Can you help me?
Those can only come from the dealer which you need a special permit to purchase it as well as documents from the owner. A better option may be having yours rebuilt by a company that rebuilds and tests valvebodys, you should be able to find on the internet
@@GaryFerraro thank you for the answer do you think it's worth removing them? is it fragile and because of the springs easy to reassemble? or cleaning them from the outside will be enough?
@@GaryFerraro i have not probleme i was just planning to do this preventive cleaning at the next oil change to trt to Keep my vehicule as long as possible
@@GaryFerraro thanks for the reply. It was ok before. Manual valve is well fitted. I took pictures before reassemble and all is ok ( balls, spring, etc etc)
@@GaryFerraro yes ! I already checked it ;) I switch the manual valve from an vgs 1 may be they are a difference with the new vgs2 valve body. I will check. Thanks for your support ;)
@@smithjo4152 Not sure of who sells just for valvebody, you may have to buy an overhaul kit. The 722.9 conductor plate is the TCM, they are very hard to get because they are part of the Anti-theft system, if there is a problem yours may have to be repaired. Do you have speed sensor codes?
@@GaryFerraro hope you can make some video about how to design such AT gear box,and which way can get the perfect each ratio in each gear shaft. thank you
I just did the same thing yesterday, and I discovered major differences to your config, specifically, the control valves, the little spring loaded things you tried to hook out of the sockets, well, my plate had 16 steel balls and only 5 orange valves and of course, the bigger orange valve. I always had this nagging feeling that my transmission wasn't working properly, fuel economy aside, I tried to belt it once just to see if it cycles through the gears, so I reached 80mph, it plateaued out in 5th gear, never shifted up anymore, the faster the car went, the more rpm, but no upshift, EVER! I got my car used, I always treated it with respect, but I have no idea if anyone had taken the transmission apart before, so I don't know the car's history. my 7gtronic is identical to yours, same conductor plate, same plug, same specs! why only 5+1 orange little valves? why only steel balls? 2008 R-Class 320CDI (251 022), the only thing I did differently was my liquid of choice for the shower, I used some engine cleaner spray, it's oily, and quickly after I bathed the components in original mercedes ATF, the same one I'll be loading later tomorrow, after I've hopefully clarified this problem, I know there should be more of these little orange valves, so I'll ask my guy at the dealership, because something is definitely bizarre about this configuration, my crippled transmission, man, it always felt a little off, always, I had this feeling it was stifled somehow! do you know what exactly a missing control valve would engender, functionality-wise? I'd like a tech explanation, it would be interesting to explore! I think someone did mess with these things, and I'm bracing for the worst tomorrow, I know from experience Mercedes are major anuses when it comes to doling out any wisdom not meant for the masses, they are cagey as hell, and nasty about it too! I tried forums, other vids, I can clearly see in other overhauls, there are definitely more control valves in there! there's got to be a chart, a clear listing of the components, the WIS should have something on it, but I don't have access to it! what a doozy! please, if you can, just drop me a line, this thread is ancient already, but you get notified if there's anything, and I think this issue is potentially very interesting, it touches on function and problem solving, when one, or even 2 of these valves are missing. I don't even know if I can buy these separately from the dealership's parts sales point..
@@GaryFerraro thank you for the reply, I didn't think you'd get back to me, rather that other viewers may share some info on the subject. So, I went to Mercedes, twice, here in Germany, you need a Maister, a master mechanic, with a lot of schooling and equal amounts of arrogance and condescension, and nobody was available, apparently, and finally, when a couple of these muppets came around, they said I shouldn't have done any work on it (exactly as expected!!! I am laughing right now, the collective attitude of these people is so predictable, and infuriating!) and the truth is, they NEVER do this, the only action related to transmissions they ever get to see is complete module replacement, no additional work, they can't even diagnose things decently! they read errors and replace! what a fiasco, and how I expected that, man, I can't tell you! so thank you, you're really a bright light in this darkness, but I still don't know why I have 5 of those check valves and all others I viewed on this platform, have 7??? you included!! you haven't addressed this question at all! this question is not solely directed at you, Gary, of course not, but really, doesn't anybody know, or want to share, cmon, people, I really need to know this, I'm about to buy a used electro hydraulic control unit, EHS in German, off eBay here, just to compare! what exactly is the role of these check valves, can they be left out, what dysfunction would they cause exactly? why? how can the same 7speed forward and 2 reverse automatic transmission/gearbox work similarly with 5 and 7 check valves installed? what is going on here?!? I would understand, just someone explain it to me! I traced the channels, it's rather basic, these valves would channel atf in one direction, hydraulic pressure is exerted somewhere, obviously, and if valves are missing, there should be a malfunction of some sort, somewhere, right? nobody knows these things with any reliable degree of certainty? shit, I don't know where to write, Mercedes is eternally useless, till a few years ago, they didn't even allow the parts catalogue to be published, actual laws hat do be put in place for them to loosen their grip on at least some of the information! and when you go to repair or service something, they quote you ludicrous prices, really! that's how I got started, years ago, and I'm still struggling to find information, with the internet being what it is, 2021, for G's sake! this is ridiculous! you know, with certain systems it's really NOT good to learn as you go, the 'shit happens' principle, or 'I'll wing it, see what happens' is not a sensible model here. I dread this trial and error situation here!
@@GaryFerraro early 2008, here is exactly what is engraved onto the half with the balls and valves in it: 2202702106 29.03.07 GH-H6-GGGGG I've already made a first and second best offer (first one was flat out rejected automatically, from the seller's eBay settings, second one is pending, €140 plus 5 shipping, not bad if it stays here) on this part: 2302708000 11.06.15 AA-AA-AAAAB At this point, I don't care about the age difference, I am just so desperately curious if they match up, and I have the 150 Euros to spare, that wouldn't break me, is what I'm saying, and really, I gotta feed the monster, I am indescribably curious now, I want to open this bitch up and see inside a newer assembly, much newer than mine actually. if the dies are the same, and all the channels match up, and we're dealing with the same unit, then something is wrong on my side, really! I remember a lifetime ago, I used to work as a student for a third party manufacturer for the auto industry, die-cast aluminum parts, just like this one, I'm not being nostalgic, I just remember the process first hand, from the electric furnace to the finished product, die preparation and manufacturing, batch quality control with x-ray and all that shit, retouching, scrapping, the works! those were the days. I'm aware that aluminum is neurotoxic, but I protect myself as best I can, always have, as an adult at least. by the way, the unit I'm hoping to buy doesn't include the control board, that one would be useless to me anyway, until I can acquire the skills and gear to program the thing myself, it would be useless to most of us. Mercedes quoted me about 640 plus the German 19%VAT for the unit itself, but they don't sell it, they install and program it in house, so there will be service fees on top of the price of the board, it's security relevant, theft prevention, etc., and requires Mercedes Xentry log-in credentials. I know for a fact that you can program and manipulate this and any other unit offline with other software packages, but I'm still learning how, as of now I'm pretty much tabula rasa, I don't know shit, to tell you the truth, I've been reading about it but the info is vague, some youtube demos, I don't know.. I'll keep looking.. I can't thank you enough, for myself and the community you're helping! your channel is superb! I hate the low quality of this video though, pitty, the content is very useful! I'm fixated on my R-Class, I think it's the perfect family car, we have 3 boys, and fond memories with this car. we drove all over Europe, very reliable, till it sprung a leak (common problem) in the oil cooler inside the V, which I fixed myself (after Mercedes quoted me upwards of €3600). Cleanup was a nightmare though.. Before I forget again, what would wear first in a transmission, what would I need to preemptively buy now, to swap later? I thought Mercedes had a wear kit for these transmissions, but they don't. I learned online that they do bundle these parts into a wear kit, but my dealership won't. I'd like to fix my transmission without any hands-on help, all alone, no intervention, no service, no specialist, no surprise expenses.. there's still the issue of it not up-shifting past 5th..
Many thanks for making this video. I used it tonight at the shop and had my valve body apart with no fear of where the check balls and valves go. In the end, cleaning the valve body and shift solenoids (plus new fluid and filter) made a massive difference in the operation of the transmission. Could not have done it without your help. Literally had the video running while the valve body was on the bench and away we went. Thank you very much, it's as if I have a new transmission!
Wow, that's great, thanks for posting.
You made me fearless to open the valve body now thanks very much for the video 🤜🤛
Excellent. Even if you're not opening up the unit it's good to see parts and functions.
Thanks for watching
Gary, no need to answer previous comment. Upon further reading I saw your reply stating you used Trans Teck. I can not say how much your video has helped me with the information you provided in the brake down and assembly. Excellent!!!!!!!!!!!! Your on my X-MAS list this year.Thanks a million.
Glad i could help, where are you located? Thanks Gary
You know the only thing i can think of is, if you call trans tec(the company) and ask tm to send out the sub kit, not sure what they will do but its worth a try.
I am located in Kissimmee FL. I ordered the overhaul kit Monday ere Saturday. . My only problem is finding a shop close to my area that uses the autologic or Star scanner.
Are you looking for the scanner to reset the adapts when your finished? did you change the computer? Gary
Gary Thank you very much for that video coincidentally I was needing it because I am repairing the transmission of my ML 350 Mercedes.
A very important video for you, many thanks and respect
love the videos. best thing is you are not one of those who start by listing tools that you need for the job and all that formal tutorial talk. you speak as if you are talking to the owner of the car. excellent. just excellent
+karroome Thank you for the kind words and thank you for watching. Gary
Awesome as always Gary.
Gary, you are a brain surgeon! Love you vids..
Thank you, please subscribe
I wonder why you dont clean each of the check-valves individually ?
Do you think adding a retrofit ATF filter in the cooler return line is good preventive measure???
Hey Gary I was reading about the 722.9 trannies have a 2010 Mercedes E350 and I have the P0748 code. Flushed cleaned the solenoids, used magnet, put it back and get limp mode and P0748 K1 solenoid.
Took it apart and cleaned again, tested resistance 5.7 most of them, tested for clicking 12v for the blue solenoids, the black act different when 12v is applied. So at this point I did not open the TB to clean I am sure it is like the one you did. Is this something that can cause the code and limp. Or is the conductor plate the issue. Looked online and P0748 is not listed in the conductor plate codes. Appreciate what you're doing
And would like to know your thoughts on this. I did not check the solenoid for pressure. Can the dirty valve body cause the code, or the plate and/ or k1 solenoid.
thank u so much it is very valuable what u did
Great video man
Here's a fun CHUNK of information: new VGS3s are PN 000 901 8008.
VGS4s were briefly a thing in the 212s and 166s before they switched to 9-speeds.
724/725 TCMs are already failing after only five years.
If you are here doing research for a MB, do yourself a favor and buy yourself one that's pre-OBDII, or at least one with a 722.6.
Mercedes transmissions will last forever with good maintenance. The electronics will fail at least once or twice.
No receive speed sensors errors just violently shifting going up and down in gears.
Hello great video!! I recently picked up a 200 6CLS 500 with a known transmission issue. Seller stated he took it to the dealership when the issue started which was only having R D1 & D2 when The transmission would attempt to make the shift from 2 - 3 there was no gear engagement and the RPMs would spike.
I was able to pull The following codes 0730 / 2505 / 2502 / P210F6-016 related to the transmission. I have done a decent amount of Research regarding the 722.9. When digging into the codes mentioned above a little further and was able to find a document showing what solenoids were called upon for each gear from what I can gather so far it looks like my issue service is K1 one is to activate.
My troubleshooting process so far has been as follows > checked the connection at the transmission it was wet so I cleaned and dried it > cleared fault codes same problem remained and displayed same fault codes was unable to pull freeze frame data > checked transmission fluid level and was short by a little less than 1/2 qt topped it off, cleared codes > same problem remained and displayed same fault codes > Dropped the pan discovered one rectangular slotted magnet when viewing videos of others I’ve seen Additional magnets > rectangular magnet was pretty dirty but no shavings and or chunks (previous owner stated the dealership flushed the transmission so I would assume they cleaned any shavings but was not mentioned to me by the seller) > I now have the valve body on the bench all of the contact points for the solenoids are dirty but the screens are clear of any major debris buildup > all solenoids show a resistance of 5 ohms //// is it safe to put 12 V to the solenoid’s to check their function?
I do know and understand that these transmissions especially the early version are problematic and if the conductor plate needs replaced it is best to replace with a newer plate and valve body as well as the virginizing > personalizing > activating process. I wont go to the dealer, so I'm considering Abrites if programming is needed.
At this point I am looking for some advice from the experts as to what else I can look at when I separate the valve body to clean it up, additional and or better troubleshooting procedures etc... I am burnt out from all of the 722.9 reading and video watching!
Hi Mark, The P0730 code is gear ratio error, what is the definitions of the other codes? So at this point, you have no 2-3 shift, it just runsaway?
@@GaryFerraro 2505 = hydraulic fault in transmission (engaging shift element does not engage) 2502 = the gear is implausible or the transmission is slipping // Correct no 2-3 shift when it attempt to go from 2-3 there is nothing there just revs as if it were in neutral. I have the valve body on the bench it was pretty dirty. I've read that some guys were using brake kleen to clean the conductor plate is that safe for these? what would you recommend to clean the plate with (from off the shelf)? The pan wasn't bad but as stated above I don't know what came out when the previous owner had it changed
@@GaryFerrarohi man ,have you information about actual oil pressure for this gearbox ?i can pull out pressure data for every solenoid by Das ,we replace speed sensor on conductor plate ,after no movements ,no codes ..
@@MrMexanik066 If you have no movement, may have a pump problem
@@GaryFerraro have you correct pressure data for that transmisson ?
Hi Gary, thanks for the video! I'm about to do my 3rd trans service on my 722.9 and would like to clean the valve body out (again) as the first time I did it I noticed a LOT of debris and it made a huge difference. This time it's getting the updated (deeper) pan and the updated filter. Anyway, I'd like to replace the solenoid O-rings this time. Do you have any idea what size they are? I did find a O-ring kit for them but am up in Canada and it's the better part of $100 to get them here !!
Hi Bob, I do not know the exact size of them, There are transmission suppliers in Canda, i think one of them is King-o-matic have you checked to see if they have?
Very good video.
Brilliant video Thank you
Thanks for watching, please subscribe
hi gary,on a 05 clk, will a reprogramed7332 vgs work to replace a 6732 vgs with out replacing valve body ? thanks so much for your vids, best on youtube !!
05 clk are you sure it's a 722.9? can you give me the year make model and engine size, i can look it up for you. If it is a 722.9 it may be version one, for this the valvebody and plate may have to be replaced
Awesome video with great detail and explanation of your thought process Gary! Where does a DIYer like myself purchase an O-ring kit for the solenoids/ speed sensor/ pass through plug for the wiring harness from?
That stuff is not sold separately, may have to buy an overhaul kit
gary it is a 722.9 in a 2005 clk 500 a/209-c/209 convert . i purchased a replacment vgs #7332 that was reprogramed to my car vin# and told it would replace my vgs 6732,do you think thats true ? thanks very much for your help.
Hi
Very hard work and informative.it would have been really helpful if you could show us close up of check valves and how to check them.
Secondly would appreciate if you could mention exact torque specs specified by manufacturer for conductor plate and valve body bolts.
Last but not least did you washed conductor plate?
Can we check manually just by inspecting if solenoid is good?
Appreciate your reply
I don't really wash the conductor plate, I rinse it with mineral spirits and let it drip, quick rinse. I torque the valve body halves to around 90 inch pounds and the plate to 70 inch pounds, i'm not sure of exact specs but it's very close. haven't really had issues with those torque specs
Thank you too much Gary great video thank you
+احمد محمد Thank you sir. Gary
Hi Gary, Perhaps my torque wrench is in need of calibration or i did not have it locked, but I ended up snapping a valve body bolt. Since these appear to be aluminum, should the whole set be replaced anyway? Best, Joe
wow, snapped a valve body bolt. Those are steel bolts. ouch
i have 724.208 it shows an error called pressure oil pressure switch C sensor fault in conductor plate. P087000 , Intermitantly . car drives fine, and no issues. Engine check comes once in a while and goes away. dealer wants to replace plate, should i replace valve body too.. TIA
I LOVE THE VID. REAL HELPFUL. CURIOUS TO KNOW WHAT GRITYOUR USING TO SAND OR IS THAT SOMETHING SPECIAL USED JUST FORVALVE BODIES.THANKS
+MICHAEL BARTON I flat sand it with a stone, i use the fine side of the stone. Thanks for watching. Gary
Super Video.
Thanks Gary realy great!!
+José Luis Ormeño González Thanks for watching
Hi Gary
I have a problem with my transmission.w221 s350 722.9.It wouldnt shift to 4th gear and above.1st,2nd and 3rd is fine.It has a fault code 0893(Hydraulic fault in transmission-disengaging shift element does not disengage).I have replaced the atf and filter and clear codes but no improvement.
Appreciate your advice and feedback.
Did you get your transmission fixed? I have this very same code. Not even the dealer has seen this one before. They are telling me I need a new transmission. I’m going to go pick it up today and try cleaning the solenoids. I’m Really hopeful that you can point me in the right direction
Hi Gary,
What solvent did you use to clean out a valve body at the washer tank?
Mineral spirits
Gary Ferraro Thanks
good information
Brilliant video but can’t seem find the o rings for sale anywhere in uk help if you can afraid to start repair without them 😮😮
I liked it alot. Thx
Gary.. What do you charge to have this overhall done on the 722.9 valvebody ? I have an S class.. 2004.. Interested in doing this.. I have no lights showing speed sensor issues or anything. .I just would like to do this for basic maintenance .
You really wouldn't have to do this if all is working ok, i would just service the trans, changing the filter, pan gasket and replace the fluid that comes out
@@GaryFerraro Thank you for the info!
I had the same issue with ZF Gearbox for BMW 745 2003 and X5 2008. But in general, what's the cause that leads to valve body breakdown??
old viscous ATF causing
not enough pressure causing
clutch to slip and warp rings
loose friction material help shave the bearings and gears
So either you take it easy with the clutches or you want to change oil super early to flush suspended junk.
... How about adding an extra filter in the cooler lines with secured connections. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Appreciate your prompt reply.
Is it ok to clean valve body with carb cleaner or MAF cleaner?
sure, just do the valve body, not conductor plate
Gary, awesome video! I have my valve body apart for cleaning. Before I tackled cleaning I was going to map out the balls and valves. I noticed that I have 6 check valves however. Also the lower valve body has three small check valves as well. The plate reads Continental VSG3-NAG2 for a '13 c63 amg. Would you happen to know where I could find a diagram for this application?
Hey.
would deal with a problem?
I also have fewer valves.
what have you done?
rostrapowertrain.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Rostra-Transmission-Import-Product-Guide-Poster.pdf
great and very informative..just how about the senolieds? not recommend to replace them by new ?or how can I make sure they are functioning well?
thanks again for ur great video.
Not sure if they are sold seperatly, but generally they are. on later 722.9 where you can just swap a condutor plate, you could put the solenoids back
Thanks
Supposedly the solenoid flow rate is programmed into the ECU and if you change it you may have problems. Im sure if you have a dead solenoid its worth a shot. They can be bought separately
Can the range sensor be replaced with out replacing the conductor plate? For the 722.9 transmission giving P705 code
Its part of the conductor plate, If you clear the code it comes back?
Bonjour monsieur j'ai fait le même travail que vous mais sauf j'ai un problème je trouve pas le couple de serrage des vis des valves sur les côtés je retirer les plaques à l'intérieur il y a des ressorts et des valves est-ce que vous pouvez m'aider s'il vous plaît merci cordialement
thank you very much u r the best.
u r washed with water valve bode?
+ابن سراح No i washed with solvent, like mineral spirits solvent.
Hi Gary, awesome video. I would really appreciate if you could assist me with a few things. Firstly, could you please indicate what the grease was that you used on the solenoids and if you could please direct me to the seals kids you used, or where they ordered from the dealer?? thx again..
The grease i used is Transgel or Assembly goo (same thing) If you need an overhaul kit, i purchase from Transtar and they have an online ordering system called Transend
WWW.Transtar1.com is the website
They sell the grease too, there part number is M465TB, not sure part number for overhaul kit.
Great video. But I need your help>. Where can I purchase the solenoid orings. Can you please provide the dealer who sells them. That's all I need to put this thing back together.
They may be hard to get unless you buy an overhaul kit, i dont know of anyone that sells them seperatly, no one will break up a kit, I buy all my parts from transtar, there web site is WWW.Transtar1.com There is another company called what ever it takes transmission parts you could try them as well. Gary
Love the video 👍🏼
However, 28:00 giving me major dentist visit anxieties!
LOL, good thing i didn't use the dremel
For certain!
@@mshef140 Thanks for watching
Hello, thanks to your video I have cleaned my block + plate + solenoid valves.
Thank you.
On the other hand, I have a doubt.
It was not so easy to put the whole thing back on the car.
When I installed the set on the car I paid attention to the large electrical outlet & was able to finish but I did not pay attention to the plastic B3 tube.
I inserted this tube correctly & perpendicularly to its place in the block (I did not mount this tube on the gearbox) solenoid valves.
So when reassembling the assembly this tube was on the assembly that I was holding in my hands.
From what I understand this tube is only used to tighten the clutch in first & seventh gear.
I have been driving since Sunday I haven't noticed anything in particular.
If I succeeded in assembling the whole, that is to say that the plug came out well & that I was able to correctly tighten the 9 screws of the block, is it possible that this B3 tube was not mounted correctly?
If this tube would have been badly mounted can we understand it without disassembly in relation to the reactions of the car?
If the tube was left out, i believe the car will not move in sport mode, will not move forward
@@GaryFerraro thank you for the answer.
as I told you I have no problem neither in D nor in S on all the speeds.
Does this assume that the tube has been placed correctly?
Sonnax says that sometimes the valves wear out the bore an you need to ream it out and install larger valves.
Yes, that is true. I honestly haven't had many issues with the valvebody, the conductor plates go bad all the time
Hi
Just a quick question.where manual valve comes out on conductor plate there are plastic clips inside which I believe holds the manual valve.
Accidently when removing valve body.one of the plastic facing outside manual valve is broken and inside one is fine.
Will there be a problem I put it back on?I can send you pic if you want me to.
Please help.
Thanks
Gsferraro@yahoo.com Send picture please
What was the purpose of marking the check valves, etc. with the punch tool if you marked them all the same?
Location, some transmissions will have a cavity where it looks like a ball may go but does not
Gary, quick question. On the 722.9 valve body, on the pressure regulator valves, the end cap has a screw on each one. So it looks like the pressure regulator valves might be adjustable. Can they be adjusted for a firmer shift or am I way off base?
I'm sure they can be adjusted, i personally never touched the adjustments. Is the trans slipping?
good morning, I have a mercedes class c w204 kompressor year 2010. it has a transmission 722,695. Could you tell me if the 722.696 is compatible with my car?
since it is the only one that I get
Do you know what year the other transmission is?
Hi Gary, i have a 722.9 on a 10' C300; last month came to slip between 3rd and 4th, we chance oil an filter and still slipping . Today appear two codes P0745 and P0749. If we perform a Pressure solenoid (3Y/8y1) change, we'll need reprograming? hablás español? Gracias
Just seeing the post now, if you just swap out the solenoid no programming needed, sorry about that, My e-mail is gsferraro@yahoo.com
Gary an excellent video. Where is your shop located?
Thank you
Joseph
I'm in New York on Long Island. Are you in the New York area?
Very helpful thanks
thank you
Gary, you mentioned the overhaul kit that included the o-rings and the gasket for the speed sensor... Where can I get the kit?
+Daniel Huang You should be able to get this overhaul kit from an online retailer, the kit i think i used was a trans tec kit
@@GaryFerraro doing a bit of work on my 07 c230 722.9 transmission and after much research a result of having 6 not 8 check valves I found this business... www.newco-autoline.de/index.php?show=zahlung > I thought I lost two check valves but it seems some 722.9 might have a configuration of six not eight check valves however I wanted to have all eight as some other 722.9 owners with the same situation stated that they added to two missing check valves and it restored the first gear bypass...Thanks for the informative video~
@@MichaelCallender
Some valvebodies are designed for 6 check valves.Does it really make difference if you add 2 more?
Thanks
High
I have a 2006 S500.After driving for less than 1 KM,the transmission stops shifting and the RPM goes high.I restart the car and everything works fine.Is it the speed sensor or could it be something else?Must I change the whole conductor plate?
Thanks
First thing to do is have it scanned for codes, this may give some direction
What is the blue material you are brushing onto the solenoids prior to reinstallation?
+Joe Klesney Its called trans gel, this is a special assembly gel for transmissions, when it heats up it melts, unlike the hi temp grease which will not melt. Gary Thanks for watching
Assembly lube. Comes in a variety of colors so you can distinguish it from a leak and see where you've applied it.
Than you for you sharing
Quick question .do you the specific torque of the screws of the back of the valve body.?
Do you mean the bolts the hold the 2 halfs together?
Hello Gary , Great Video , i want to thank you very much for sharing this . Im having a problem with same gearbox on w164 that has hard shifting on lovers gear especially on 2-3 and 3-2 gear , Problem is more evident on lower speed , if i accelerate hard shifting starts to dissapear . Can you give me any idea for this? thank you
Have you checked the fluid level? have you scanned for codes?
Gary Ferraro ! Thank you for reply on oil was not changet but as the hardshifting is too much, i decided before changed it , to check olso something else. On star reads only this error : Code : C114 , No CAN message was received from control unit N15/7 , thank you for your help
Do you have access to a scanner like snap-on scanner? would like to see if any other codes are in the trans and clear them and see how the car drives
Yes i have a friend with c4 star . This error code Code : C114 , No CAN message was received from control unit N15/7 , is static can not be deleted , there are no ather codes . only this one. when car is cold hard shifting is lower , but when car warms you when here it with ear , olso can fill on car because it to big . May be i have loosing presure from valve seals ? or only a cleaning of valves olso valve body can resolve my problem . thank you
Do you know which control unit is N15/7 ? Is there a noise coming from the trans?
nice video! can i just ask , are all the green solenoids the same and the black ones the same? i want to change my lockup solenoid because of hard cold shifting
ive changed my TCU and the guy said he programmed all the gears properly but 2nd to 3rd to a hard shift
Yes, same color are the same, have you tried shift adapt reset?
@@GaryFerraro yep ive done it using the kickdown and accelerator method for 10sec. i think it maybe the lockup clutch solenoid as the fault comes up "2783 -friction power of the torque converter lockup clutch is too high "
@@Suhail.Khan-24 converters have issues too on this trans
@@GaryFerraro how can you test the TC on these? would you recommend i change this solenoid for TC lockup first>?
I found a Mercedes document that says the trans computer is adapted to the particular characteristics of each solenoid valve, and so each valve must go back into the hole it came out of. One, two or three valves can be changed for new valves without a new adaptation, but if 4 or more or changed, the computer must be adapted to the new valves.
Thank you. It's been 3 months and no more intermittent P0718.
Did you install a new plate?
@@GaryFerraro No way 💰💰💰. After seeing this video I cleaned both valve body and plate with solvent & compressed air. There was graphite & fine magnetic debris on upper / small section of the valve body. Only graphite on lower.
@@GaryFerraro photos.app.goo.gl/JEi9DFJkGMAC74Mt7
@@Caswell404 Do you remember the definition of the P0718 code?
@@GaryFerraro Sorry my bad, but yeah, I had both P0717 (intermittent) and P0718. Both codes have not appeared since the last valve body & plate cleaning. If you check the gallery link below, you will find two graphs showing Y3/8n1 speed before and after cleaning.
thanks for the excellent video. one of my problems with most of 722.9 transmission with milage above 150,000 km is this: when shift from P/N to D or R, a harsh engagement is felt (like a jolt).
when driving the car, shifting among all gears are smooth and fine.replacing engine/transmission mountings and flex disc did not solve the issue. there is no fault code in the TCM. Do you think overhauling the valve body (like what you did) will improve the harsh engagement.
Have you tried resetting shift adapts?
Aint that the torque convertor? Have u fix it?
Definitely it is not from torque converter. I think its valve body.
@@farhaddadfarnia806 next week i’ll change my valve body because of 1-2-3 and 3-2-1 not shifting smoothly.. i’m curious if it will be fine.. but from p/n to r/d.. it’s fine... dont know what to say.. some people say it can be also the torque convertor... will see.. mine has 190.000km now
Florin Vlasa before replacing valve body try adapt shift valve according to rpm and torque with Xentry.
Hello! I have a problem, I changed the TCM of my ML500 w164 3 days ago (they programmed and adapted) but now I feel that my Mercedes does not respond the same. When accelerating, it does not lower the gears, it stays at the same RPM and when it decides to accelerate, no gear raises more than 4 thousand RPM
Could it be a bad adaptation or programming?
why did you change out the vgs? where did you get the replacement vgs?
@@GaryFerraro It started with a few tugs of TCM and when putting D it did not advance nor in R, it did not do anything and it launched code of y3/8n4
Can you install a 7G(3)conductor plate and valve body complete in a 7G (1) Transmission
You would have to go by the vin number, I think the VGS one is no longer available so the VGS 3 is what i believe you would get
I'm an idiot. I mixed up my solenoids and I don't know which one goes where anymore. I understand the green ones can only fit in the green port and the black and black. But I noticed there's a lot of different numbers on these solenoids. What the hell should I do?
My e-mail is gsferraro@yahoo.com i will see what info i have to send you
i have the same exact issue.... smh
Gary,I did replace the valve body conduct plate ,but I did clear the code with the cheap diagnostic tool but didn't clear. what am I soppose to do after replacing conduct plate.
I was watching another video on this, and they said you have to have a high end scanner tool to clear that code.
+Mathew Rutto sorry mat, i missed that one.
Matt to clear the code you need to use Star or autologic Scan tool. Either of the two are will clear the TCM. Have a mechanic you trust do it for you its worth it if its not over100 to 150. That is ifyou want yur car back on the road again.
What codes do you have
did the cleaning make any difference to the shift quality or did it resolve any problems?
Hi do you know where I can but a mb star scanner thankful for your help
I do not , sorry. Maybe able to find one on line
Its a real shame you did not remove the steel shavings from the solenoid mesh strainers with a magnet.
Also brushing blue grease over the mesh ends of the sloenoids cant help. You are one of a few guys brave enough to learn this box, good on you.
Don't remember what this trans was doing but i don't think it was to bad, i like to grease the o-rings putting the solenoids back in
Hi, is it necessary to replace the bolts that hold together the valvebody? How much torque must be applied to them?
Not that hold the valvebody together but that hold the valvebody to the case, if you can get them do it, if not you will be ok, torque is lite, maybe 70 inch pounds(not sure of the exact spec)
@@GaryFerraro Thanks a lot.
@@jeans.460 Welcome
Thanks for making the video but please be careful with your torque specifications because I stretched a bolt. Per the manufacturer specs it's 8Nm (70.8 in-lbs) and not 85 in-lbs.
What solvent did you use for flushing that is compatible with plastic balls?
mineral spirits should be fine
Thanks for the tip. I am having difficulty pulling the valve body off the trans. Seems to hang on the connector, and I am reluctant to push the contacts to free it. Any ideas?
It always gets stuck there, i hold the valvebody and push down from the top of the connector, you dont want to break that or you will have to replace the conductor plate/TCM.
Is the connector a little wiggly when it is free?
it may be yes
Do you know if the valve body for a 722.6 is the same as this? Or specifically if the seperator plate is just a metal plate or is it a plate that is has a rubberized gasket on it? Im in the middle of rebuilding a 722.6 but cant find if the plate is reusable or one time use. thanks
+Ivan The Great The metal plate in the middle is just the plate, no gasket, there fine to reuse. Gary 722.6 and 722.9 plates are not the same just to give you some info, the ZF6HP26 plate is a one time use, cannot use that one over.
+Gary Ferraro Great!! Thank you, time to rebuild this thing. Have u used any transgo shift kits? I had good luck with them on a acura trans, but not sure if they are compatible with an s55 amg, their kit says that high HP cars use a large valve and they provide a small one in their kit. Thank you for the help! People like you save a lot of money for other people by showing them how to do stuff.
I use transgo kits on fords(4r100 and CD4E) not much on hondas/acuras though i do 1-2 a week. If your overhauling this 722.6 make sure you change the F1 and F2 sprags, they have a high failure rate. Wher are you located?
+Gary Ferraro buffalo, ny
Im also in new york, long island, my grandparents use to live in fredonia
Gary, do you know of any good company that can pressure/vacuum test the 722.9 VB, ream out the holes and install oversize valves where necessary?
Not at the moment, my valvebody guy does not do them
@@GaryFerraro Tx, how about a decent reman source? I'm up in Canada but will likely have to shop North America. I'm at the point where I'm looking at Sonnax tools just to do my own personal VB....ouch.
@@bobjones3725 These valvebodies are trouble, don't know anyone doing them at the moment
Hello, I have a 2007 slk55 AMG with the 722.9, I have a pretty bad flare from 2-3 when cold (almost like its going from 2 to neutral to 3 if that makes sense), as it warms up it gets much better but doesn't go away. Do you think this would help cleaning the valve body? I have no codes present.
I do not think that will help, sounds like a pressure loss or problem with the K1 clutch drum. What are you using to scan the car? just to confirm, your scanning the trans and not the engine correct?
@@GaryFerraro all I have is a icarsoft i980 scanner, it will read some(?) live data from transmission (such as requested gear, current gear, etc) I believe (I’ll have to double check) and it will let me check transmission specific codes, but there are no stored or pending codes. Would it be helpful if I could get a video in the morning of the first few 2-3 shifts of the day?
@@GaryFerraro Doing some research I would agree that it does seem to be related to k1 clutch engagement. If it’s better when warm, and in between 2-3 (does not slip when in gear, just has flare), would that lean towards an internal clutch disc being worn/bad or more towards a solenoid being clogged? Am I going to do more damage if I keep driving this for another month or so until I get the time to do this? I have not dropped the valve body yet to take a look at the solenoids.
@@dcoonrod827 Sure if you like, my e-mail
gsferraro@yahoo.com
@@GaryFerraro I checked the fluid level today after work, fluid is discolored, almost like the color of new motor oil. It doesn’t smell burnt, however I’m going to order a new filter/fluids and do a change before I go any further. Should I change/check anything since I’ll have the pan off and the filter off already anyways? I’ve replaced solenoids on the valve body before on a previous 722.9 so I’m fairly familiar with it.
Thank you in advance, I can’t tell you how much I appreciate your reply.
Thanks!
if i remove/unplug the conector the valvebody and the conductor plate when i put in back it will need reprogramming? thanks for the video!!
No, If you change the conductor plate then yes
@@GaryFerraro Thanks! for you answer. and thanks for help others with this educative videos!!!
@@alexcontt Welcome, thank you for watching
Hello there...my problems started after the trans service...3rd gear takes a little longer to engage and if i accerate hard the car shuts down momentarally...if i go a little gentle with the pedal it seems ok...do you have an idea of what it can be? Oem fluid and filter and no error codes or events with mb star.Thank you in advance.Before the service it was fine just ordered the service because i bought it used and to be safe made a general service.its a cls. 320 cdi with the 722.9
Try resetting shift adapts, see if anything changes
@@GaryFerraro already did it...improved a bit but if i press hard when 3rd stars engaging the impression i have is that it doesn't completly engages and has a little slip that causes the momentaraly shutdown to prevent major damage.
And no fault codes.Thank for your aswer
@@MrAranhaman So just to confirm, the engine shuts down where you have to restart it or you get no response from the gas pedal? are there any engine codes?
@@GaryFerraroNo engine codes.Only gave one right after the service when i sadly realize i had a problem.It was code 0894(Roughly translated gear not plausible or gearbox sliping).It was erased and never showed up. It shuts down briefly a few tenths of a second only on full gas from low revs but keeps on going,it's like a "warning" of hard accelaration...its strange and it is driving me crazy.And it only hapens on 3rd.For example from a stand stop i start moving and let the gears change at 1700 or 2000rpm but if i decide to give full gas on third as soon as it engages the problem hapens...also on sequencial mode.If i let the revs go up since 1st with no kickdown and let them engage at higher rpm 3500 or so it doesn't hapen as long as it is not on full gas...passed 3rd securelly engaged i can again give it full throtle.
I have to replace my transmission. My transmission has the VGS3 conductor place. I found a used one that is the same ID as the one in my car. My question is...is it possible to swap out my original conductor place from my current transmission to the used transmission? And is there anything special I should know about?
May not be able to do that, once programmed they are married to that car, plate may have to be wiped out or a new one purchased, they aren't that bad price wise
thanks...I was thinking of replacing both the valve body and place to the other transmission. So that would not work?
@@ezryder4245 There are different valvebodies, is the year make and model the same?
this is the transmission info 2012 221 Type, Automatic Transmission; S550, AWD, ID 2212704504....I was told that's the same as mine as per the VIN
this is the transmission info 2012 221 Type, Automatic Transmission; S550, AWD, ID 2212704504....I was told that's the same as mine as per the VIN
hello, excellent video, disarm my valve box and I only found 6 check valves, is it normal? My car is ML320 diesel 2008, thank you very much for your response.
Leonardo diaz coronado if this is a 722.9 there is about 12 2 plastic and the rest steel
Gary Ferraro Forgive me, I mean the yellow plastic with black, no balls, yellow with black I have 6 installed is normal or should be more? regards
@@leonardodiazcoronado9593 Hi
There are valvebodies that have 6 plastic spring loaded check valves.
Make sure you put them right.please see link.
Hope this helps
www.google.com/search?q=722.9%20transmission%20diagram&tbm=isch&client=ms-android-samsung&hl=en-US&sa=X&ved=0CBcQtI8BKAFqFwoTCNjVkpSP1e0CFQAAAAAdAAAAABAS&biw=360&bih=560#imgrc=Agc_Uo2NnwMu2M&imgdii=okYWNFO1iMJuBM
i wanna do that to my 2014 c250
Hi! Dear Gary Ferarro!i have a w203 with 7g tranni,it slipping on shifting 3
Tomorrow Will remove the transmission,and look inside,i think my problem in k1 cluth?
@@vvvuuy What did you find out? We may have the same issue
Sorry, I have a problem with the 7 G tronic Mercedes transmission. From the results of the clean diagnosis, there is no indication, but the vehicle doesn't want to run (the transmission has no response) is the speed sensor not working properly? or is there something else. Thank you
Car does not start?
@@GaryFerraro No, the machine is running normally
The first indication is extreme gear shift and sometimes the car won't run. then start again ok normal, then I replace the new vgs, still no change( Sorry English translate by Google)
@@encuhsofyan8671 Are there any codes present for the Transmission?
@@GaryFerraro Just like the one you're opening
Sorry I meant inch pounds. They are stretch bolts and they are not tightening. Just snapped the heads. Took out the others and can see they are real stretched! Just ordered new bolts for $140.
Hello! I have a Ml 350 CDI Disel Model w164.122 gearbox 722.902 the valve body is different from the other models?the positions of the 14 metal and 2 plastic cylinders 8 check valves I'm trying to recover it I'm from Brazil Can you help me?
Those can only come from the dealer which you need a special permit to purchase it as well as documents from the owner. A better option may be having yours rebuilt by a company that rebuilds and tests valvebodys, you should be able to find on the internet
Puedes marcar dónde van las bolitas
Thank alots 🎉
Hello thanks for the video can you tell me why you didn't disassemble and clean the rods in the 2 blocks 4 in one and 16 in the other I think
All valves were moving freely in the bores so i did not see a need to take them out
@@GaryFerraro thank you for the answer do you think it's worth removing them? is it fragile and because of the springs easy to reassemble? or cleaning them from the outside will be enough?
@@ferhatb6252 What kind of shape is the rest of the transmission in? Any hard part damage or a lot of metal?
@@GaryFerraro i have not probleme
i was just planning to do this preventive cleaning at the next oil change to trt to Keep my vehicule as long as possible
@@ferhatb6252 Ok, are you familar with opening one of these valvebodies?
Tnx ,, from this video
If i buy a nag1 722.6 remanufactured or used trans do i have to tak it to the dealer to flash anything or reset anything or just swap it out and drive
722.6 does not have the TCM inside the trans, so no programming needed
@@GaryFerraro ok thanks
@@newwavepressure6478 Welcome
You still need to have a reader that clears trans code.
@@smokegreentree dose a code come up when u change yhe trans i dont have a code i wish i did so i would know def what the prob was
Can you provide part numbers for the overhaul kit, trans gel, etc? Thx
where are you located? are you looking for parts?
Gary Ferraro in Maryland. You referred to a kit when replacing the cover on the speed sensors.
Yes, that cover comes in the overhaul kit.
Gary Ferraro Great! Is there a part number for the overhaul kit? Where can I get an overhaul kit?
I buy parts from transtar, i can get you there part number or i may be able to hook you up with my rep
I heard every steel ball is different in size and weight? Is that correct?
No, Has steel check balls all the same and plastic which are the same,
need additional info. how can I get intouch with u
My e-mail is gsferraro@yahoo.com
I didn`t see you taking plates from sides. Why not?
If all valves are free, no need to take that apart
Hello Gary,
I just realized the valve body cleaning I have checked everything 3 times but now the car won't move at all.
Do you have an idea ?
It moved before you opened the valvebody? Did you hook up the manual valve?
@@GaryFerraro thanks for the reply. It was ok before. Manual valve is well fitted. I took pictures before reassemble and all is ok ( balls, spring, etc etc)
@@Acme749 Did you install the B3 tube?
@@GaryFerraro yes ! I already checked it ;) I switch the manual valve from an vgs 1 may be they are a difference with the new vgs2 valve body. I will check. Thanks for your support ;)
Checked. Is the same... I have no more idea !
How much do charge for a job like that?
Doesn’t Sonnax have diagrams for these transmission?
Just on the valves they sell, not detailed diagram
Does this require resetting or reprogramming of the conductor plate?
After overhaul, i reset shift adapts, not reprogram, in order to reprogram the tcm would have to be wiped clean
@@GaryFerraro thank you Gary!
@@smithjo4152 Your welcome. Thanks for watching, please subscribe. Any questions just let me know. Gary
@@GaryFerraro Do you know of a place that sells the rebuild kits for the value body and where to buy a 722.9 7G conductor plate?
@@smithjo4152 Not sure of who sells just for valvebody, you may have to buy an overhaul kit. The 722.9 conductor plate is the TCM, they are very hard to get because they are part of the Anti-theft system, if there is a problem yours may have to be repaired. Do you have speed sensor codes?
nice video,but why don't have 1080P clear size ? best wishes !
Old Video, i updated my PC since
@@GaryFerraro hope you can make some video about how to design such AT gear box,and which way can get the perfect each ratio in each gear shaft. thank you
I just did the same thing yesterday, and I discovered major differences to your config, specifically, the control valves, the little spring loaded things you tried to hook out of the sockets, well, my plate had 16 steel balls and only 5 orange valves and of course, the bigger orange valve. I always had this nagging feeling that my transmission wasn't working properly, fuel economy aside, I tried to belt it once just to see if it cycles through the gears, so I reached 80mph, it plateaued out in 5th gear, never shifted up anymore, the faster the car went, the more rpm, but no upshift, EVER! I got my car used, I always treated it with respect, but I have no idea if anyone had taken the transmission apart before, so I don't know the car's history. my 7gtronic is identical to yours, same conductor plate, same plug, same specs! why only 5+1 orange little valves? why only steel balls? 2008 R-Class 320CDI (251 022), the only thing I did differently was my liquid of choice for the shower, I used some engine cleaner spray, it's oily, and quickly after I bathed the components in original mercedes ATF, the same one I'll be loading later tomorrow, after I've hopefully clarified this problem, I know there should be more of these little orange valves, so I'll ask my guy at the dealership, because something is definitely bizarre about this configuration, my crippled transmission, man, it always felt a little off, always, I had this feeling it was stifled somehow! do you know what exactly a missing control valve would engender, functionality-wise? I'd like a tech explanation, it would be interesting to explore! I think someone did mess with these things, and I'm bracing for the worst tomorrow, I know from experience Mercedes are major anuses when it comes to doling out any wisdom not meant for the masses, they are cagey as hell, and nasty about it too! I tried forums, other vids, I can clearly see in other overhauls, there are definitely more control valves in there! there's got to be a chart, a clear listing of the components, the WIS should have something on it, but I don't have access to it! what a doozy! please, if you can, just drop me a line, this thread is ancient already, but you get notified if there's anything, and I think this issue is potentially very interesting, it touches on function and problem solving, when one, or even 2 of these valves are missing. I don't even know if I can buy these separately from the dealership's parts sales point..
There are different valvebodies, they all have 16 check balls but the other components may vary
@@GaryFerraro thank you for the reply, I didn't think you'd get back to me, rather that other viewers may share some info on the subject. So, I went to Mercedes, twice, here in Germany, you need a Maister, a master mechanic, with a lot of schooling and equal amounts of arrogance and condescension, and nobody was available, apparently, and finally, when a couple of these muppets came around, they said I shouldn't have done any work on it (exactly as expected!!! I am laughing right now, the collective attitude of these people is so predictable, and infuriating!) and the truth is, they NEVER do this, the only action related to transmissions they ever get to see is complete module replacement, no additional work, they can't even diagnose things decently! they read errors and replace! what a fiasco, and how I expected that, man, I can't tell you! so thank you, you're really a bright light in this darkness, but I still don't know why I have 5 of those check valves and all others I viewed on this platform, have 7??? you included!! you haven't addressed this question at all! this question is not solely directed at you, Gary, of course not, but really, doesn't anybody know, or want to share, cmon, people, I really need to know this, I'm about to buy a used electro hydraulic control unit, EHS in German, off eBay here, just to compare! what exactly is the role of these check valves, can they be left out, what dysfunction would they cause exactly? why? how can the same 7speed forward and 2 reverse automatic transmission/gearbox work similarly with 5 and 7 check valves installed? what is going on here?!? I would understand, just someone explain it to me! I traced the channels, it's rather basic, these valves would channel atf in one direction, hydraulic pressure is exerted somewhere, obviously, and if valves are missing, there should be a malfunction of some sort, somewhere, right? nobody knows these things with any reliable degree of certainty? shit, I don't know where to write, Mercedes is eternally useless, till a few years ago, they didn't even allow the parts catalogue to be published, actual laws hat do be put in place for them to loosen their grip on at least some of the information! and when you go to repair or service something, they quote you ludicrous prices, really! that's how I got started, years ago, and I'm still struggling to find information, with the internet being what it is, 2021, for G's sake! this is ridiculous! you know, with certain systems it's really NOT good to learn as you go, the 'shit happens' principle, or 'I'll wing it, see what happens' is not a sensible model here. I dread this trial and error situation here!
What year is your car
@@GaryFerraro early 2008, here is exactly what is engraved onto the half with the balls and valves in it:
2202702106
29.03.07
GH-H6-GGGGG
I've already made a first and second best offer (first one was flat out rejected automatically, from the seller's eBay settings, second one is pending, €140 plus 5 shipping, not bad if it stays here) on this part:
2302708000
11.06.15
AA-AA-AAAAB
At this point, I don't care about the age difference, I am just so desperately curious if they match up, and I have the 150 Euros to spare, that wouldn't break me, is what I'm saying, and really, I gotta feed the monster, I am indescribably curious now, I want to open this bitch up and see inside a newer assembly, much newer than mine actually. if the dies are the same, and all the channels match up, and we're dealing with the same unit, then something is wrong on my side, really! I remember a lifetime ago, I used to work as a student for a third party manufacturer for the auto industry, die-cast aluminum parts, just like this one, I'm not being nostalgic, I just remember the process first hand, from the electric furnace to the finished product, die preparation and manufacturing, batch quality control with x-ray and all that shit, retouching, scrapping, the works! those were the days. I'm aware that aluminum is neurotoxic, but I protect myself as best I can, always have, as an adult at least. by the way, the unit I'm hoping to buy doesn't include the control board, that one would be useless to me anyway, until I can acquire the skills and gear to program the thing myself, it would be useless to most of us. Mercedes quoted me about 640 plus the German 19%VAT for the unit itself, but they don't sell it, they install and program it in house, so there will be service fees on top of the price of the board, it's security relevant, theft prevention, etc., and requires Mercedes Xentry log-in credentials. I know for a fact that you can program and manipulate this and any other unit offline with other software packages, but I'm still learning how, as of now I'm pretty much tabula rasa, I don't know shit, to tell you the truth, I've been reading about it but the info is vague, some youtube demos, I don't know.. I'll keep looking..
I can't thank you enough, for myself and the community you're helping! your channel is superb! I hate the low quality of this video though, pitty, the content is very useful! I'm fixated on my R-Class, I think it's the perfect family car, we have 3 boys, and fond memories with this car. we drove all over Europe, very reliable, till it sprung a leak (common problem) in the oil cooler inside the V, which I fixed myself (after Mercedes quoted me upwards of €3600). Cleanup was a nightmare though..
Before I forget again, what would wear first in a transmission, what would I need to preemptively buy now, to swap later? I thought Mercedes had a wear kit for these transmissions, but they don't. I learned online that they do bundle these parts into a wear kit, but my dealership won't. I'd like to fix my transmission without any hands-on help, all alone, no intervention, no service, no specialist, no surprise expenses.. there's still the issue of it not up-shifting past 5th..
I got the part, EUR 145,99! Nice! I'll let you know when it gets here. side by side, with high res photos if you want!