HARDWALL FULL TUTORIAL
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- čas přidán 13. 10. 2021
- How to apply thistle hardwall backing plaster in this video you join me as I walk you through the steps starting with wall prep & finishing with the traditional devil float figure of eight key in preparation for skimming.
topics covered in this video
*Suction control
*scratch coat
*top coat (float coat)
*Closing & devil float
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Good video Stuart, as a improver its good to watch a more traditional form of plastering, it seems to me most people only want to do dot & dab. Keep them coming. Thanks for posting.
Great informative video as usual Stuart. 👌
Thanks for the knowledge 🙏🏾👍🏾👌🏾
Another bangin' tutorial 💫
Great Video just ordered a serrated straight edge.
Brilliant video as always. Had the exact issue today at a customer’s house: brickwork across the belly of the wall was sitting a fair bit more proud, so had to thin it out across the middle.
Feels wrong when the product tells you to get 10mm thickness overall 😂
I think they forget you gotta factor in the architrave and the fact you need two coats of skim on top of that to finish!!
Excellent video stu. I also use a pissy coat of PVA. Keep up the good work.
Oh master Stuart you have delivered Another great video. Keep up the great video’s we all really do appreciate all the time and effort you put in to them. 👍
Thanks so much Johnny 👊 Will do!
@@troweltalk2719
Me and my plastering mates love to hardwall but we have different techniques on what to scratch it with and when to skim over it.
I like to sponge it others devil float and one does nothing to it. We even have differ on how far it’s gone before putting on multi.
Great stuff Stu and keep the vids coming please as every day is a school day mate and we all love to learn new things and new ways.
Great vid nice work 👍
Great video 👍
Definitely need to get me sen one of those serrated spats! Good video as always Stu
www.plasterers1stopshop.co.uk/product/serrated-edge-1-2m/
I’ve been plastering 25 years and always pva old brick after wetting lightly and 2 coats scratch and float coat normally put renda mesh in first coat been living in my house 10 years since I done it and not even a hair line in the whole house so stick to your method mate
Appreciate the vid mate
Good job... I like it a little less stiff... have you got a confined space certificate working in that small room. Lol. No room for even a muck board. Thanks mate 👍
on the door wall u were doing I had a pig the frame was out so getting the whole wall straight for the tiler was a mare
got it in the end but couldn't get it dead vertical
Few dodgy floorboards on that one mate? Nothing worse than uneven floors when you working in empty houses. Had a few falls myself. Good video mate as usual.
Does hardwall hold onto thermalite block? My thermalite block has been primed with blue grit but I’m wondering if dot and dab would have been better
Hi Stu, did you say the Putz serated spat is 1200mm in length? Do you find this is the most manageable size for most situations and walls? Also what make and length is the feather edge you use. Got quite a bit of tackle to buy and trying to get choices right and hopefully keep costs down. Thanks for helping. Finding your help and suggestions indispensable. Cheers buddy
nice job👍I'm to lazy I just dot and dab the lot lol..
Good video Stu. Which situations would you use Bonding instead of Hardwall?
Hello mate bonding coat is designed for low suction surfaces so for example a surface that has gloss paint. Its intended to create a 'bond' hence the aggregate which is included in bonding coat but not in hardwall 👍
Gud vid.
I'm a plasterer/mason
Iv worked along side many others and like you say we all have our own ways of doing things .
Are you a fan of universal one coat plaster ? Alot of plasterers hate it where I'm from but I think it's awesome can put it on thick and get a lovely finish with it.
Hi Dan I have never used universal one coat plaster before I have always been a 2 coat man but I will give any product a fair bash & if it's a product that does the job it'll get my vote. My only sceptism on one coat products is the grab & drag issue & also closing the surface in enough to get a good finish in other words with a 2 / 3 coat coat system the first pass grabs & the second pass drags (rules off) then we top with a skim with a one coat product you are expecting one thick coat to do 3 jobs so I can imagine that could lead to a challenge but again I'll give any product a try & would be interested to see how it's done 👍
@@troweltalk2719
I lay it up thick staff it off get a flat, fill any misses, but make sure I get it flat , I then leave it for 45 minutes to hour depends how long it takes to firm up.
I then sponge float it to bring fat up , then trowel it with my refina plaziflex.
I then leave it for 20 mins and repeat process with sponge float and plaziflex. I do this about 3 times in 20 min intervals then on last trowel I use the flexible Marshall Town stainless Steel trowel to polish it up.
I get a finish as good as skim , I have photos if you want me to email them to you.
I don't use one coat on everything just walls like in you video where the tolerance is small , it's also a great plaster for repairing patches as it blends in perfect. As I said I can send pictures .
@@troweltalk2719 I sent you a email pal
@@dangeach180 Thanks Dan I got the email the pics are impressive mate looks good. Your process makes sense now as you are wetting up the surface so essentially creating a skim with back being firm. Not sure if my local merchants stock this product but if I see it I will pick some up & give it a trial
@@troweltalk2719
Always nice using new products .
A lot of plasterers down in cornwall don't like the stuff. I thinks it's really useful .
But like you said in your video everyone has their own ways and it's what's best for the individual that matters .
Keeps up the good work and videos iv subbed and will continue to watch your content.
Had a crack at hardwall this weekend. Probably jumped in at the deep end trying hardwall as my first attempt at plastering. This video helped a lot but it fell apart when it came to the ruling off. Bought a serrated feather edge like the one your using but when I started to flatten it off it started pulling the hardwall off the wall. Any further tips on ruling off?
Hi Shane this likely happened due to the material being to dry. When you rule off the material has to be wet so maybe look at suction control to buy yourself more time on the tools before the gear picks up
@@troweltalk2719 really appreciate the response. I'll have another stab at it and look at trying to seal the background more before laying it on.
@@troweltalk2719 Hi, where you have come to the second cote have you used the serrated feather edge to achieve that or used the usual scratch tool? thanks.
Hi stu where’d you get that hammer you was using at the start of the video to take off some of the old render?.
Hi mate I think we picked it up from homebase but eBay have them
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/500gr-Fibreglass-Handle-Shaft-Mini-Mattock-Pick-Axe-Pick-axe-Garden-Farm-Tool-/264723574756?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
Nice work mate did you video doing the window wall ?
Hi JT thanks for watching the channel 👍 the other walls were boarded mate I will do a video on floating a window wall if it helps pal not sure when but will keep in mind
Hi , plaster has blown under our inset fire I believe it is because finish was only used. Bricks are either breeze blocks or thermlite blocks. Should I use Hardwall or bonding prior to finish, any suggestions welcomed
Hi John email us a photo mate to
Troweltalkgroup@gmail.com
I'll have a look for you
Quite funny how people who have their own channels like to pull other people to bits for giving advice. Think they should stick to their own instead of look for advice on other channels. A lot of plasterers have various methods of doing thing not every one does the same thing. As long as its a top job at the end of the day there is guidance on products but myself like to test boundaries and try different ways to make things easier and see if i can get the job any better i think more experienced plasterers would until you find that way suits them. Its called experience! Keep it up mate.
Thanks mate really appreciate this. I welcome any constructive criticism nobodys perfect but some people want to purposely discredit others to make themselves look good it's the wrong way to gain viewers I didn't write the book on plastering just sharing what has helped me in my working life. Like you said it's the end result, the quality of work that truly matters not how you go about it every plasterer works a little differently to the next!
Great video pal, im a bricky just patching up my old terraced in a couple of spots probs 1m sq each, is it important to put the skim coat on straight after the hardwall coat or can you leave it a few days to do final skim? Thanks 👍
Hi mate better to skim same day where possible. If you do leave it then apply neat SBR over it before skimming 👍
@troweltalk2719 great stuff, thanks mate 👍
Just quick one I used hard wall today and said 15ltrs to one bag bag I find Isit enough for right consistency to float and set how much water would u say
Hi Lewis I don't measure but consistency wise you want some body to it so that you can apply a decent thickness. Think mash potato or humus ! 👍
I find it weird that sometimes if I'm doing multi over h/wall it comes out better than ordinary walls crazy
Hi stu can this be used on damp proof if knocked off 1 metre high rather than sand and cement
No mate never use gypsum backing coats to follow chemical dpc it will draw moisture & cause no end of dramas
I'm struggling to get a wall to float correctly with "Hardwall".
The wall to be plastered is a breeze block inner wall tied to the outer brick external wall.
Unfortunately, the breeze blocks are not vertical on the right side of the wall face, not unlike waves on the sea but vertical if you see what I mean?...
The left side is not too bad but running across the wall (left to right) the bottom left quarter of the wall is "sunk in" by at least 2cm or more WRT to the left side.
I'm embarrassed to say I've had to take off two lots of attempts at getting it to float. I'm just about to try a 3rd time.
What I do not know is how many layers of "Hardwall" can I use to "pad out" the 3ftx3ft indent in the wall section I describe above and do I need to keep adding the padding out layers while the preceding layers are still tacky?
I've plastered large areas before but this one has me by the short and curlies. I apologise if I've asked too many questions.
Thanks for watching Mark 2 options really,
1. Dot + dab the wall & tamp your boards level (plenty of dab mixed up thick with plenty of body think mash potatoe 😉)
Option 2. Fix vertical timber grounds to the wall, get them level by packing them out where needed & build up several hardwall coats use a short piece of shamford skirting or suchlike to run up the grounds.. you can use 1" timber strips ie doorstop etc..
In terms of thickness you can build up the hardwall fairly thick however if going more than say 30mm I would embed fibreglass mesh into the hardwall on the second to last coat to avoid any shrinkage cracking
Hope this helps
Stu
Trowel Talk
@@troweltalk2719 Stu, thank you for your prompt reply, it's very much appreciated.
I face several problems with the job overall...
1: I've decided to D&D this section. It was my original choice but I thought Hardwall would offer me flexibility.
You see I'm resplastering after our house has been rewired. However, the whole kitchen had to come out because the old plaster (looks like some terrible powdery grey-type stuff) had "blown". Trouble is, the kitchen has to go back in afterwards. Therefore, the tolerances I'm working to are a little err um, "choosey".
2: The wall perpendicular to the above section (again, kitchen) runs along until it meets an internal door frame. Unfortunately, this wall also has a belly to it but not as bad as No1! However, the door frame protrudes 25mm from the breeze block wall, so D&D maybe a problem here as the thickness of the plasterboard + D&D would exceed the thickness of the door frame section.
I'm reluctant to use HW again, as the "bellies" to these walls are proving problematic to float evenly.
I see the only solution to Wall No 2 is to put in a deeper door frame, so that it protrudes out further, enough to take the thickness of the plasterboard + D&D. Whoever put the original door frame in (kitchen to garage) didn't use an off the shelf product - it looks homemade.
Once I find a solution to wall No 2, then the rest of the kitchen is rinse & repeat.
I feel confident with plasterboard and skimming, but with HW, that would require you, the professional plasterer to do as clearly that is beyond my ability to keep 100% floated without some imperfections creeping in, in & around the belly sections.
Again Stu, I am very grateful for your advice. I will take it and think more about how I can apply it to the wall that is a problem. All the very best. M.
If the first cote has dried do you need to pva again before add another as iv always been told to but read your not supposed to so now I’m questioning wether I was taught right 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️iv never had any problems but now my mind is confused
Despite what you hear PVA is fine to use if for example you apply a scratch coat then leave it for days there's no problem in applying a pva mix over the scratch before topping.
Usually we will aim to scratch, top + skim the same day however this doesn't always work out so yes use PVA where needed 👍
Where did you get the serated feather edge from Stuart ?
Hi Jason I think it might have been plasterers one stop shop but can't be sure it was few years ago . I have found an identical one here if this helps
oneillsupplies.com/product/taliaplast-serrated-feather-edge-with-ergonomic-profile/?attribute_pa_length=1200mm48inch&Google%20Shopping&Google%20Shopping%20Feed&gclid=CjwKCAjwzaSLBhBJEiwAJSRoko70l23F0AtfvF8b58I1JkwN5EKbM_bkF9idAjnTW88UMY8UGuvQ6hoCghIQAvD_BwE
@@troweltalk2719 Thanks Stuart I'll take a look. 👍
@@jasonrichardson7762 Hi Jason I've put up a link on the Facebook group too it's here at p1
www.plasterers1stopshop.co.uk/product/serrated-edge-1-2m/
why do you do the top first Stuart ?
It's good practice to plaster from the top of the wall down not only to avoid dropping snots onto your work but moisture in the gear will drain down in theory the body of the wall remains workable etc.. having said that I do know of some spreads who start at the bottom of the wall & they are good spreads
Nice one
I use hundreds of pounds of hardwall a week
on horrible bathrooms lols bazz
Hi, if i have to achieve up to say 23 mm thick on old Victorian brick without using plaster board can i get away with applying 3 coats of hard wall and if so do i let the 2nd coat fully dry before the 3rd? thanks
@@gtibruce yes mate u can use as many coats as u like
I let the first go off hard pva then the next and so on
Just done a bathroom 3 inches thick
Plus I use a steel speed skim to get the flatness
Any bumps just let it go off hard
Then use a rasp to get it real flat
If your tiling over just leave as is
Gives it more key for the tiles to grip
Don't use multi finish waste of time and money
15 bathrooms this month and more to go
Seven days a week lols bazz
What happened to the sound?
Do you.pva wall befor applying hardwall ?
Hi Andrew it depends on the background if it's dense concrete block (new work) then no. If it's old dusty brick we will put a watered down pva mix over the bricks before applying the scratch coat
@@troweltalk2719 what if the brick is painted ? Sbr? Grit?
Video's are looking pukka now days Stu! That's great viewing figures for 1 week mate 👍👍👍
I tested hardwall for British gypsum when it first came out. It was shite at first and stunk
It still stinks! ☺️ But is good gear, set times are workable , trowels on & rules up fine
Also it’ll crack on wood around door lining
I haven't plastered on any wood I've plastered upto the door liner which is standard practice & the architrave covers this area.. or have I missed something?
1 inch polystyrene board then dab over , reduces damp and insulates and straightens
Left to right skim. Right to left rough........
Your right mate I've tried it this way & always revert back force of habit I guess. I tend to overlay the gear to build up the thickness needed
You didn’t rule it both ways will be like a banana
Always ruled both ways pal 👍