One of the most helpful videos on fire blocking I have seen!! I have been a little confused as to what was required in soffit and mechanical chases. You took the time to show examples of all the areas I had questions about. Bravo!!!
How does this video only have 51K views still? Great job. Not only good information, but I also really appreciate how well the video was done, good lighting, good audio and well spoken. Keep it up!
@@PPRBD Once I was told by an inspector that regular expansion foam isn't adequate and have to use specific fire foam. I tried to find the building code for it but no luck.
@@zjomamma1904 IBC 718.2.5 states that Fireblocking of annular spaces around….. shall be with a material specifically tested in the form and manner intended for use to demonstrate its ability to remain in place and resist the free passage of flame and the products of combustion. This means that any spray foam that is to be used must have been tested to be used as fireblocking. Hope this helps. Thanks.
Thank you so much. This is a great video. We are re-framing an old house and knew we needed to fireblock but had only a vague idea of what it would look like. This is very informative.
Very informative and detailed. There are so many different situations out there, but Tim covers the concept well enough, anyone should be able to properly outfit their home.
This is extremely helpful. Between the video and all of the questions you answered in other comments I can now confidently complete what was one of the more confusing parts of finishing my basement. Thank you very much for this, it’s greatly appreciated.
Tim, i was looking up fire blocking code, saw this video and thought ... hey wait, I know him!.... Great video, and thank you for guidance and how you continue to teach us.
THANKS SO VERY MUCH!! We just failed inspection because our hvac closets weren’t fire blocked. We had no earthly idea what the inspector was talking about 🤣🤣 He told us we could have the contractor put drywall in the ceiling of the closets and that would be good. We thought why would we drywall the ceiling of these closets and the rest of the house is down to the studs 🤦🏽♀️ AGAIN, THANKS!!
Great video. this morning our Oklahoma City inspector had put comments on the framing inspection. And i did not know about fireblocking the top plate penetrations at all! So i searched google and i came across this amazing video. Thanks a lot!!
Great video! I noticed that the basement wall draftstopping was done by "stuffing" unfaced fiberglass between the studs and walls at 10' max. intervals horizontally. There are huge gaps in the section that you show on video behind the stud. I typically spec a 3/4" strip of exterior plywood nailed to the stud and tight to the foundation. This seals against horizontal travel of air and fire. Most inspectors in NJ and NY don't allow loose insulation like that even if it were tight. The logic is that if the fire is cranking there will be a lot of suction and air movement which will peel off those loose pieces of insulation. We usually do a horizontal 2x4 blocking at the bottom of the soffit level between studs. Again, much tighter and air sealing in the stud bay than fiberglass. Love how you pint out the draftspopping around ducts and pipes. I rarely see that done and a lot of inspectors overlook it.
Thank you so much for the feedback. We hope the video was helpful. From our perspective, educating the public on how we operate and some of the things our team looks for out in the field is good for everyone. Always better to prevent problems rather than fix them.
We are in the process of doing this right now and this is extremely helpful. I'm using rock wool for the entire ceiling for sound dampening and fire protection. All these extra little areas that I might have missed will now be done before framing inspection. Thank you for such an informative video.
This is the best video! Thank you for effectively explaining fire blocking how-to and draft stopping with clear examples and explanations. #Masterclass
I didn't realize you could add in the draft stop every 10 feet, and instead filled it with an entire new layer of mineral wool. Each piece had to be shaved down about 3/4", but mineral wool peels more of less like a layered pastry; super easy. It was expensive but hey, now I can pat myself on the back for a job well draft stopped. I'd go with your method if I had to do it all over again, and use the saved money to pay for a month of bills 😥 Thanks for the great video!
This is great information, it would be great to have your licensed contractors review this information. It makes it very clear so people understand what needs to be done, lots of different ways to achieve compliance, and yes this is a matter of life safety. I had the unfortunate experience of sending a contractor from our region packing because he was arguing with me and said it wasn't necessary, and he had not done fire blocking as explained by the video for decades.
Great video! How thick is the fire block - fiberglass should be? How do you secure 16-inch tall pieces between the studs? Also, On a different note, I wonder why insulation panels are not installed between the frame and the concrete wall. What is permitted to be installed instead? Thank you!
Hi there. Thanks for the feedback and your comment. The insulation needs to be the full depth of the cavity so there is no set depth in the code. You can secure the firestop material with staples or just pressure fit as long as it will stay in place. I am not sure that I understand the last question but I think you are asking why it is not required to insulate the walls when finishing the basement. Because the house is preexisting and the unfinished basement was already inside of the building thermal envelope, there is no code requirement to add additional insulation when the basement is finished. Hope that helps.
At 1:35 he I believe mistakenly calls a fireblock a draftstop. Draftstops cut off thousands of square feet while fireblocks occur at interconnections of horizontal and vertical spaces and at 10 feet on center in double stud walls. Many people get this confused because the code says "Fireblocking shall be installed to cut off concealed draft openings" which makes it sound like it is a draftstop. IBC Sections 718.2.1.5 and 718.2.2 make it clear that "Fireblocking" is what is installed in double stud walls and concealed spaces of stud framed walls.
Hey Robert, thanks for reaching out. Drop ceiling only have to be draft stopped if they are over 1000 square feet in area and then it has to be divided into 2 equal areas. Fiberglass insulation can be used as draftstop. Hope that helps.
Great video! What if anything would you do on top off that soffit? I imaging you need to somehow block airflow from the inside of the soffit to the above space between the joists?
As long as the soffit is less than 1000 square feet no draft stopping is required in the dropped ceiling. If the dropped ceiling is over 1000 sq. ft. the areas must be draft stopped into equal sized areas. I have provided a link to the code section below. Hope this helps. Thanks. codes.iccsafe.org/content/IRC2021P2/chapter-3-building-planning#IRC2021P2_Pt03_Ch03_SecR302.12
How about the gap on a basement stud wall where the frame has a minimum of 1 1/2 inch expansion gap at the bottom, should this just be filled every 10 feet? As this will be filling the expansion gap, thanks
all this draft stopping behind walls in a basement is just asking for huge mold issues.. you need airflow.. whats worse for your family? mold throughout your walls or a possible fire spreading faster?
Hi Mark. It would be better to protect the entire length of the mechanical soffit, but current code only requires draft stopping every 10 feet horizontally. Proper fireblocking at the walls should prevent the fire from entering the soffit in the first place. I hope this helps.
Hi Jean C, thanks for reaching out. This fireblocking video is only for residential applications from the IRC. The type of building that you are describing is a commercial building and in that case the fireblocking codes come from section 718 of the IBC. Please contact your design professional for further clarification as to the type of products that can be used and when and where it is required. Hope this helps.
Furdowns are not required to be fire stoped or draft stoped every 10 feet only the interconnection between vertical (walls) and horizontal (furdown) fire block the furdown at the wall see r302.11 2 also see the diagram for fur downs the 10' horizontal and vertical is from the previous code for walls
That is not entirely correct. The Pikes Peak Regional Building Code says the drop would only need to be Draft stopped when over 1000 sqft as long as the sides connected to walls have been done.
What if the plastic faced sheet style insulation is already anchored to the concrete wall and you framed in front of it? Can the blocks be butted against that isulation tight to the wall?
If the framing is in contact with the insulation blanket attached to the concrete walls, that works as fireblocking and draftstopping, as long as no gaps are left. Hope this helps.
One area you didn't cover with the horizontal draft stopping is annular spaces in the studs (for electrical wires, plumbing pipe, etc). Do these holes also need to be sealed every 10'?
Hello, is there anything in writing where it clarifies Drafstopping in the soffit? Been having this problem with Los Angeles and Orange County inspectors consistently. They say I have to firestop non-rated interior walls just because pipes penetrate the soffit area. I told them that's Drafstopping but they don't get it. Thanks
Draftstopping is only required in a drop ceiling if the area of the dropped ceiling is greater than 1000 square feet. Check out section 302.12 of the Pikes Peak Regional Building Code.
Thanks for the informative video! At what distance from the concrete foundation is fire blocking not required in my basement? I have some walls that will be 1 ft and 3ft from the foundation. Is that just considered unfinished area that does not need fire block, or do I need to run 3ft of fire block to the foundation? At some distance, it becomes just unfinished space, but I do not know what that dimension is. Thanks.
Concealed spaces per code are not addressed by a dimension. Here is the code section for you to read over. The easy way to accomplish this is by using unfaced fiberglass insulation to fill in the area. Fireblocking. In combustible construction, fireblocking shall be provided to cut off all concealed draft openings (both vertical and horizontal) and to form an effective fire barrier between stories, and between a top story and the roof space. Fireblocking shall be provided in wood-frame construction in the following locations: 1. In concealed spaces of stud walls and partitions, including furred spaces and parallel rows of studs or staggered studs, as follows: 1.1. Vertically at the ceiling and floor levels.1.2. Horizontally at intervals not exceeding 10 feet(3048 mm). 2. At all interconnections between concealed vertical and horizontal spaces such as occur at soffits, drop ceilings and cove ceilings.
Thanks for the video. My county using IRC 18 currently. I was going to use rigid foamboard insulation on the concreate walls for code, R-10 continuous insulation and then frame over the foam board. They mention that I should not have the framing butt up directly against the insulation to leave an air gap. In order to horizontal fireblock, do I use a 22/32 OSB panel sistered to the stud and touching the foamboard, or just use spray foam insulation every 10ft on the gaps? Thanks!
Hi Nick. For draft stopping horizontally any of the approved materials can be used. This includes OSB, drywall, fiberglass insulation, and even spray foam. Hope this helps.
Hello Tim, Thanks for the video. We are adding a bedroom and bathroom to the basement. The inspector said we need a Vertical draft stop every 10 feet . We have the horizontal block in. We have framed against a concrete wall that has the white insulation wrap. My question is what is the best way to install the block. The wrap is against the studs but don't know what do. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Scott. Vertical draft stopping is required every 10’ horizontally from the floor to the ceiling. This is the space behind the studs to the foundation or to the foundation insulation. Fiberglass insulation is usually the easiest and most cost effective form of draft stopping material. It can be stuffed in between the studs and the foundation and that will act as the draft stop. Hope this helps.
@@PPRBD thank you for responding and I figured as much. But my next question is, does the window need to be completely surrounded by the the insulation ? Thank you so much and it's very much appreciated
Sorry to resurrect an old YT comment, but I'm working on finishing our basement and will also be leaving the blanket wrap insulation in place. What did you end up having to do to pass the inspection? Was it just the top portion at the top plate and the bottom portion at the bottom plate, or did you have to cut into the wrap or otherwise push particle board on edge into the insulation and attach to the studs?
I'm about to finish a basement, so this is excellent info. I do have a question about the "every 10 foot" draft stopping. I was planning to run rigid foam around the concrete walls in my basement, and finish with wood studs in front of that. Does the stopping material have to go from the stud bay all the way back to the concrete, or can it simply make tight contact with the rigid foam (which would be much easier)?
Per the IRC 2015 code, rigid foam is not an approved draft stopping material. You might consider using fiberglass insulation. You should be able to stuff fiberglass unfaced insulation from the back of the stud to the face of the foundation wall every 10 feet. Hope this helps.
@@PPRBD But that would create area for mold and and water to collect. Every basement insulating video said not to have fiberglass touching the concrete wall.
@johnunsicker7440 It's weird that code does not approve rigid foam insulation panel as draftstops, but allows spray foam, because polyiso panels and spray foam are made of the same chemicals. I think it has more to do with what's been tested in labs than with efficacy.
Best video on the planet Earth! Thank you again! I have one more question. If the R-13 faced fiberglass insulation is installed between the studs do I still need to install foam (or other material) every 10 feet to prevent draft? Also, I'm wondering if the insulation can be combined. For example - 16" at the top install Rockwool as fire block and the rest use R-13 fiberglass insulation. Thank you!
Thank you for the compliment. We appreciate it and we hope the video was helpful. As for your question, If the insulation COMPLETELY fills the cavity from front to back and there is not a gap left, then the foam would not need to be used every 10’ for draft stop. Just keep in mind that the draft stopping is often checked at the frame inspection, before the insulation is put in. You'll want to have that discussion with your inspector if you plan to do it that way. You can also mix the rock wool and fiberglass without any issues. Hope that helps.
PLEASE ADVISE…Is it necessary to fill the holes in studs where wire is run horizontally….or…..will the draft stop every 10 feet be enough? Thank you for the informative video.
Hi there Trainman. Thanks for reaching out. You do not need to fireblock any penetration that runs horizontal through the studs. The only time fireblocking penetration is required is when you penetrate the top plate. Hope that helps.
Hi there, thanks for reaching out. You can use a spray foam, but it must be one of the foams specifically designed for fireblocking. They can be purchased at home improvement stores. Hope that helps.
If you have a wall taller than 10 ft like the one you pointed out @4:39-4:54, can you just fill the whole thing with glass fiber insulation? You're going to insulate that wall anyways since it's an exterior wall, so what's the point of adding 2x members at 10', when you said glass fiber insulation works as a fire block. If you add a fire block with wood at 10', the 2x members will create a thermal bridge, and it's a waste of materials and labor if you're saying glass fiber insulation works as a firestop. You kind of addressed this question at 1:17 where you said fire blocking can be taken care of by insulation, but you said you can't see the fire blocking anymore once the insulation is installed. I can understand how it would be hard to see the framing in the other examples you gave like the gap between the studs and the foundation, but I don't see how that would be an issue in the the case of a wall framed over 10'.
There are gaps behind insulation that you would typically install for a wall. The gaps would allow air to flow horizontally along the walls and that could help spread a fire. That's why horizontal draft stopping is required every 10 ft along the wall and this must be inspected before you put your wall insulation in. Hope that helps.
Thanks for the video. What made your dept decide to do this video? The rough explanation of it has been pretty helpful to understand it. I have a unique situation and trying to fully understand the fire blocking layout. Basement, drop ceilings. If my basement ceiling is going to be stuffed with rock wool / mineral wool -- does that count as a vertical fire block? Do I still need to do the perimeter layout of osb/plywood that I see some ppl doing at the sill plate level before I put up the wall frames? I'm basically curious if the ceiling filled with rock wool will be a proper vertical block for everything without doing any else. Also, I noticed in your video they all the joists have what looks like a 1 inch strip of plywood attached to them before the wood frame/stud is attached. Thanks!
We decided to do this video because our inspectors were noticing a lot of problems, particularly with homeowners. We hope this video helps prevent a lot of the common problems that pop up with basement finishes. As for your situation, while mineral wool in the ceiling will protect the floor above, it does not satisfy the fireblocking requirements. The gap between the framed walls and the concrete walls still needs to be fireblocked, and all annular space at penetrations still needs fireblocking as well. The 1” strip of plywood you see on the ceiling joists is actually the bottom chord of engineers joists, nothing was added to them. Hope this helps.
@@gregoryschultz3063 Hi Gregory. If you have a basement with insulated concrete walls, as long as the framing is in contact with the insulation, including the gap at the top, that functions as your draftstop. Hope this helps.
Hi there. Thanks for watching. Yes. The holes in the top plate need to be fireblocked, but the holes that go horizontally between stud bays do not need to be fireblocked. Hope that helps.
Great video on Fire & Draft Blocking, I learned A Lot!! Does the mineral wool have to extend down a few inches ( 6-12" ) into the stud cavity or just pack it in the space above? Thanks again for the Great Video!
Thanks for the feedback Randy. We're glad the video was helpful. To your question - The code states that the fire blocking must be a minimum of 16”. The code section that discusses this is R302.11.1.2 Unfaced Fiberglass. It states: "Unfaced Fiberglass batt insulation used as fireblocking shall fill the entire cross section of the wall cavity to a height of not less than 16 inches measured vertically. Where piping, conduit, or similar obstructions are encountered, the insulation shall be packed tightly around the obstruction." Hope this helps.
Thanks for the information! How would this apply to balloon-framed construction? I imagine fire-blocking would be required between the first floor and attic/second floor, but how about between the crawlspace and first floor wall cavities? And if fire-blocking is required in this scenario, how does one deal with potential moisture traps that old balloon-framed houses with nonexistent or insufficient sheathing or weather-resistant barriers are prone to?
Hi there. You are correct in that those areas do need to be fireblocked as well. You are not required to use fiberglass insulation in all situations though. There are several code approved materials for fireblocking so I have included the code section for you. In the Regional Building Code it is R302.11.1 Fireblocking Materials. 2” nominal lumber blocking will probably be the best product in the case that you are describing but all of the methods are acceptable. Hope that helps.
@@PPRBD Thank you! I was aware that a variety of materials could be used, but I wasn't sure if even wooden blocking could create moisture traps. It sounds like it would be fine though. Of course, my existing studs are actual dimension lumber with uneven spacing, so I'm not looking forward to fitting each piece individually....
This definitely helps me with my basement refinish, but I've got a question. My basement has builder installed blanket insulation, my walls are going outside of that. What should I use as a fireblock between the walls and the blanket insulation?
If the framing sits against the blanket nothing else is required. If there is a gap left at the top stuff it with fiberglass insulation. Hope this helps.
Thank you for asking this question. This is my situation as well. I’m assuming the same principle applies to vertical draft stopping? Assuming that the builder installed insulation covers the gap? This is a terrific video, btw.
I am trying to frame up some walls in my basement and found 2 by 4 lumber for the wall framing would be too much money, so by code in Colorado can you use 2 by 3 lumber because if it is cheaper. Also do you need to pull a permit to frame and drywall the exterior basement walls. I am not planing on doing electrical or plumbing. I am not going to make it a livable area I just want to be able to paint the walls to make the basement brighter. I’m not going to put flooring, rooms, or bathrooms. Hopefully you can help me out
I found your video looking for fire stuff. How about double top plates. 2 plates are required for load bearing walls and the rating between multiple floors. Gives more time to prevent fire in stud cavity to penetrate floor system above? correct? single top plates are rated 1hr just like solid blocking i believe. so is 2 plates a 2 hr between floors?
Great video. I'm working on remodeling an old brick townhouse. Do I need to install fireblockling and/or draft stop on top of the furr out walls (2x4) below the roof?
Hi Carolina. The answer is yes. On a furred out wall, we are looking for the fire blocking to close the gap at, A. Top of the wall, B. Every 10’ horizontally. It’s recommended, but not required, to do it around windows as well. Hope this helps.
The approved list doesn’t say fiberglass. I’m under the impression it’s allowed but only if it’s 16” am I wrong? I see by the sophet they have it but not by the double wall
Unfaced fiberglass insulation is an approved fire stop material, but it must be used in lengths of at least 16” long or longer and it must fill the entire stud cavity and be packed tightly around pipes and other obstructions. Hope this helps.
i have builders dispute the fire blocking at 10 foot high rule.. lets say its a 12 foot high interior wall with no blocking.. where in the 2012 IRC does it say to do that.. i only find 10 foot rule horizontally and not vertical..
There is no requirement for vertical fireblocking inside of a single, stand-alone wall that does not connect 2 floors except at the ceiling and floor levels of the wall. If a wall is 12’ tall and does not connect 2 floors then it only has to be fireblocked at the top and bottom of the wall. Check out code section R302.11 in the 2015 IRC.
Florida -PB- inspector wanted caulking around horizontal- top 1x2 attached to exterior masonry wall for drywall attachment and he kept saying it was draft blocking. I thought he was an idiot-still do.
He says after insulation installation fire proofing can't be verified... well glass fiber insulation installed full height of the wall converts a hallow space to a solid space and so the code doesn't apply since the cavity is no longer hallow!!!
That's not accurate. We would need to see the fireblocking at top plate penetrations before insulation is completed. These penetrations have to be fireblocked in accordance with 302.11 #4 in the 2015 IRC.
The insulation used as fire blocking at the top of the wall and in between studs is this video is not "secured in place". If a fire starts inside the wall, it creates a lot of pressure and will move the insulation. When I'm inspection insulation used for fire blocking my rule of thumb is if I can move it with my hands/fingers, it fails. The same goes for any of the other "approved materials"...they must be secured in place.
Seems like they're using anything.... our code requires fire foam everywhere....it's reddish orange.... fiberglass insulation burns faster than a 2x4... rock wool would be better if it's secure.... most of that draft and blocking looks like you can push it back with no effort
Hi sir, thanks for reaching out. To be clear, the fiberglass insulation and foam isn't so much to stop a fire, its to block air flow and slow a fire down. If you want to go above and beyond the code with 5/8 drywall, you can do that, but its not required. Hope that helps.
One of the most helpful videos on fire blocking I have seen!! I have been a little confused as to what was required in soffit and mechanical chases. You took the time to show examples of all the areas I had questions about. Bravo!!!
Thank you for the great feedback. We're glad the video was helpful.
How does this video only have 51K views still? Great job. Not only good information, but I also really appreciate how well the video was done, good lighting, good audio and well spoken. Keep it up!
Thanks snowman. Glad it was helpful and we appreciate the feedback.
Best fireblocking video on the internet hands down.
Thank you. We're glad the video was helpful.
@@PPRBD Once I was told by an inspector that regular expansion foam isn't adequate and have to use specific fire foam. I tried to find the building code for it but no luck.
@@zjomamma1904 IBC 718.2.5 states that Fireblocking of annular spaces around….. shall be with a material specifically tested in the form and manner intended for use to demonstrate its ability to remain in place and resist the free passage of flame and the products of combustion. This means that any spray foam that is to be used must have been tested to be used as fireblocking.
Hope this helps.
Thanks.
Thank you. Best video yet on fireblocking technique. Keeps it simple, straightforward. Highly recommended.
Thank you. We appreciate the feedback and we're glad it was helpful.
Thank you so much. This is a great video. We are re-framing an old house and knew we needed to fireblock but had only a vague idea of what it would look like. This is very informative.
Excellent. Glad it was helpful.
Very informative and detailed. There are so many different situations out there, but Tim covers the concept well enough, anyone should be able to properly outfit their home.
Thanks for the feedback Marc. We hope the video helps and you are always welcome to share with other people who might need to see it.
This is extremely helpful. Between the video and all of the questions you answered in other comments I can now confidently complete what was one of the more confusing parts of finishing my basement. Thank you very much for this, it’s greatly appreciated.
Excellent. We're glad the video was helpful.
Years ago I worked a job where we installed 1/2inch drywall in the full width of a new attic to fireblock a work area from the front office.
Tim, i was looking up fire blocking code, saw this video and thought ... hey wait, I know him!.... Great video, and thank you for guidance and how you continue to teach us.
one of the best produced videos on the topic of insulation
Thank you. We hope it was helpful.
This is University level quality in both info and production. Great job, great info, thank you!
Thank you so much for the great feedback. We hope the video was helpful.
Well-made video, and seems like a straight up, reasonable guy. When it's inspection time, you'd hope to get a guy like this.
Thanks for the feedback. Hope the video was helpful.
THANKS SO VERY MUCH!! We just failed inspection because our hvac closets weren’t fire blocked. We had no earthly idea what the inspector was talking about 🤣🤣 He told us we could have the contractor put drywall in the ceiling of the closets and that would be good. We thought why would we drywall the ceiling of these closets and the rest of the house is down to the studs 🤦🏽♀️ AGAIN, THANKS!!
No problem. We're glad the video was helpful.
Thank you so much! This video lets me know how to comply with the code, and keep my family safe.
Excellent. We're glad this video was able to help. Have a great day.
Great video. this morning our Oklahoma City inspector had put comments on the framing inspection. And i did not know about fireblocking the top plate penetrations at all! So i searched google and i came across this amazing video. Thanks a lot!!
Glad it was able to help. Have a great day.
This is an excellent video on what is a very confusingly worded section of the code. Thanks for putting this together!
No problem. We're glad the video was helpful.
Great video! I noticed that the basement wall draftstopping was done by "stuffing" unfaced fiberglass between the studs and walls at 10' max. intervals horizontally. There are huge gaps in the section that you show on video behind the stud. I typically spec a 3/4" strip of exterior plywood nailed to the stud and tight to the foundation. This seals against horizontal travel of air and fire. Most inspectors in NJ and NY don't allow loose insulation like that even if it were tight. The logic is that if the fire is cranking there will be a lot of suction and air movement which will peel off those loose pieces of insulation. We usually do a horizontal 2x4 blocking at the bottom of the soffit level between studs. Again, much tighter and air sealing in the stud bay than fiberglass. Love how you pint out the draftspopping around ducts and pipes. I rarely see that done and a lot of inspectors overlook it.
Thanks for the feedback. We hope the video was helpful.
The first really helpful fire block video I have ever found. THANKS!!
Thank you for the feedback. We hope it was helpful.
Excellent video. Good material and presentation plus you speak clearly and show examples.
very informative- thank you
No problem. We hope it was helpful.
Very informative! Citizens of your municipality are fortunate to have access to government entities who are interested in educating homeowners.
Thank you so much for the feedback. We hope the video was helpful. From our perspective, educating the public on how we operate and some of the things our team looks for out in the field is good for everyone. Always better to prevent problems rather than fix them.
Thank you sir, very thorough!
What a great video!!!
I’m going to use rock wool for my draft stop in my ADU!! Thank you for this video!! Great job!
Thanks Nolan. Glad it was helpful.
If I understand correctly, mineral wool is mong the best fire stop materials. The draft stopping ideas are very useful. Thank you.
Great video Tim. This is confusing for most of us. Thanks.
Glad you liked it Don. We have received a ton of great feedback on this video so we think its helping. At least we hope. :)
great video - this is a really good verbal and visual 'translation' of what is written in the code.
Thanks Joel. We hope it was helpful.
We are in the process of doing this right now and this is extremely helpful. I'm using rock wool for the entire ceiling for sound dampening and fire protection. All these extra little areas that I might have missed will now be done before framing inspection. Thank you for such an informative video.
Thanks for watching Joe. We're glad the video was helpful.
I learn a lot. Thank you!
We're glad it helped. Have a great day.
Very helpfull video for DIY
Very informational, and very handsome!
Thanks for the feedback. We hope the video was helpful
Good stuff. This will help me explain poly seal and fire blocking to my customer next time he second guesses the materials and methods.
Thanks David. We're glad it was helpful.
This is the best video! Thank you for effectively explaining fire blocking how-to and draft stopping with clear examples and explanations. #Masterclass
Thank you
Assalamo alaikom ( peace be upon you) from North Africa
You are welcome. We hope it helped.
@@PPRBD
Absolutely
Thank you
Thank you for this!
No problem. we hope it was helpful
I didn't realize you could add in the draft stop every 10 feet, and instead filled it with an entire new layer of mineral wool.
Each piece had to be shaved down about 3/4", but mineral wool peels more of less like a layered pastry; super easy.
It was expensive but hey, now I can pat myself on the back for a job well draft stopped.
I'd go with your method if I had to do it all over again, and use the saved money to pay for a month of bills 😥
Thanks for the great video!
This is great information, it would be great to have your licensed contractors review this information. It makes it very clear so people understand what needs to be done, lots of different ways to achieve compliance, and yes this is a matter of life safety. I had the unfortunate experience of sending a contractor from our region packing because he was arguing with me and said it wasn't necessary, and he had not done fire blocking as explained by the video for decades.
Great video! How thick is the fire block - fiberglass should be? How do you secure 16-inch tall pieces between the studs? Also, On a different note, I wonder why insulation panels are not installed between the frame and the concrete wall. What is permitted to be installed instead? Thank you!
Hi there. Thanks for the feedback and your comment. The insulation needs to be the full depth of the cavity so there is no set depth in the code. You can secure the firestop material with staples or just pressure fit as long as it will stay in place. I am not sure that I understand the last question but I think you are asking why it is not required to insulate the walls when finishing the basement. Because the house is preexisting and the unfinished basement was already inside of the building thermal envelope, there is no code requirement to add additional insulation when the basement is finished. Hope that helps.
Great video and very informative thank you for those clarifications!
Thank you. Hope it helps.
I just stumbled on this video on youtube and it was so informative! Thank you!
Thanks for the feedback Harold. We hope it was helpful.
Thank you for this video. Clears up a lot.
No problem. Hope it was helpful.
good job
Thanks. We hope the video was helpful
WELL DONE AND VERY CLEAR EXPLANATIONS
Thanks 🙏 for sharing your experience with us appreciate it ❤
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Very Informative video. Thanks for making it 🙂
No problem. We hope it was helpful.
At 1:35 he I believe mistakenly calls a fireblock a draftstop. Draftstops cut off thousands of square feet while fireblocks occur at interconnections of horizontal and vertical spaces and at 10 feet on center in double stud walls. Many people get this confused because the code says "Fireblocking shall be installed to cut off concealed draft openings" which makes it sound like it is a draftstop. IBC Sections 718.2.1.5 and 718.2.2 make it clear that "Fireblocking" is what is installed in double stud walls and concealed spaces of stud framed walls.
Very well explained!! Thank you
Thank you for the feedback Romano. Hope the video was helpful.
Great video. Thank you!
Thanks for the feedback. We hope it was helpful.
Excellent information. Thank you
Thanks for the feedback. We hope it helps.
I always get called on electrical conduit with horizontal raceways longer than 10’ on first and second floor walls that are 2x4 or 2x6.
good video plenty of information
Thanks for the feedback. We hope the video was helpful
awesome! thanks for the useful content!
No problem. We hope it was helpful.
Great video.
Thank you. We hope it was helpful
What about framed soffits under joists concealing ducts & pvc? Does the whole cavity need to be filled as I've read? What material is best there?
Hey Robert, thanks for reaching out. Drop ceiling only have to be draft stopped if they are over 1000 square feet in area and then it has to be divided into 2 equal areas. Fiberglass insulation can be used as draftstop. Hope that helps.
👌👍🫡 Sir, very informative and useful information, Thank you so much
Thanks for the feedback. We're glad it was helpful.
Great job!
Thank you. We hope it was helpful.
Great video! What if anything would you do on top off that soffit? I imaging you need to somehow block airflow from the inside of the soffit to the above space between the joists?
As long as the soffit is less than 1000 square feet no draft stopping is required in the dropped ceiling. If the dropped ceiling is over 1000 sq. ft. the areas must be draft stopped into equal sized areas. I have provided a link to the code section below. Hope this helps. Thanks.
codes.iccsafe.org/content/IRC2021P2/chapter-3-building-planning#IRC2021P2_Pt03_Ch03_SecR302.12
@@PPRBD thank you!!
How about the gap on a basement stud wall where the frame has a minimum of 1 1/2 inch expansion gap at the bottom, should this just be filled every 10 feet? As this will be filling the expansion gap, thanks
That is correct. If you fire block it every 10’ it will be sufficient. Hope that helps.
@@PPRBD Perfect, thanks!
all this draft stopping behind walls in a basement is just asking for huge mold issues.. you need airflow.. whats worse for your family? mold throughout your walls or a possible fire spreading faster?
At the dropped soffit holding the duct run, why is there no barrier at the underside of the joists?
Hi Mark. It would be better to protect the entire length of the mechanical soffit, but current code only requires draft stopping every 10 feet horizontally. Proper fireblocking at the walls should prevent the fire from entering the soffit in the first place. I hope this helps.
5/8 Sheetrock can be used as fireblock between floors it’s cheaper
Yes, 5/8” drywall is acceptable but ½” drywall is all that is required.
Can this be used in a type 3b multi-family build 4 story?
Hi Jean C, thanks for reaching out. This fireblocking video is only for residential applications from the IRC. The type of building that you are describing is a commercial building and in that case the fireblocking codes come from section 718 of the IBC. Please contact your design professional for further clarification as to the type of products that can be used and when and where it is required. Hope this helps.
So just insulating your basement is sufficient? Along with capturing those crevices?
Furdowns are not required to be fire stoped or draft stoped every 10 feet only the interconnection between vertical (walls) and horizontal (furdown) fire block the furdown at the wall see r302.11 2 also see the diagram for fur downs the 10' horizontal and vertical is from the previous code for walls
That is not entirely correct. The Pikes Peak Regional Building Code says the drop would only need to be Draft stopped when over 1000 sqft as long as the sides connected to walls have been done.
What if the plastic faced sheet style insulation is already anchored to the concrete wall and you framed in front of it? Can the blocks be butted against that isulation tight to the wall?
If the framing is in contact with the insulation blanket attached to the concrete walls, that works as fireblocking and draftstopping, as long as no gaps are left. Hope this helps.
One area you didn't cover with the horizontal draft stopping is annular spaces in the studs (for electrical wires, plumbing pipe, etc). Do these holes also need to be sealed every 10'?
I think yes, since you’re stopping the draft next to stud, stop it going through as well.
When the foam burns it will be generated toxic smoke is that true?
Hello, is there anything in writing where it clarifies Drafstopping in the soffit? Been having this problem with Los Angeles and Orange County inspectors consistently. They say I have to firestop non-rated interior walls just because pipes penetrate the soffit area. I told them that's Drafstopping but they don't get it.
Thanks
What I didn't see is a fireblock every 10 ft across the ceiling joist spans. Is that not required?
Draftstopping is only required in a drop ceiling if the area of the dropped ceiling is greater than 1000 square feet. Check out section 302.12 of the Pikes Peak Regional Building Code.
I don't understand how the fiberglass at 0:45 passes inspection. It was my understanding you needed to provide 16" of insulation. Am I mistaken?
Thanks for the informative video! At what distance from the concrete foundation is fire blocking not required in my basement? I have some walls that will be 1 ft and 3ft from the foundation. Is that just considered unfinished area that does not need fire block, or do I need to run 3ft of fire block to the foundation? At some distance, it becomes just unfinished space, but I do not know what that dimension is. Thanks.
Concealed spaces per code are not addressed by a dimension.
Here is the code section for you to read over. The easy way to accomplish this is by using unfaced fiberglass insulation to fill in the area.
Fireblocking.
In combustible construction,
fireblocking shall be provided to cut off all concealed draft openings (both vertical and horizontal) and to form an effective fire barrier between stories, and between a top story and the roof space.
Fireblocking shall be provided in wood-frame construction
in the following locations:
1. In concealed spaces of stud walls and partitions, including furred spaces and parallel rows of studs or staggered studs, as follows: 1.1. Vertically at the ceiling and floor levels.1.2. Horizontally at intervals not exceeding 10 feet(3048 mm).
2. At all interconnections between concealed vertical and horizontal spaces such as occur at soffits, drop ceilings and cove ceilings.
Thanks for the video. My county using IRC 18 currently. I was going to use rigid foamboard insulation on the concreate walls for code, R-10 continuous insulation and then frame over the foam board. They mention that I should not have the framing butt up directly against the insulation to leave an air gap. In order to horizontal fireblock, do I use a 22/32 OSB panel sistered to the stud and touching the foamboard, or just use spray foam insulation every 10ft on the gaps? Thanks!
Hi Nick. For draft stopping horizontally any of the approved materials can be used. This includes OSB, drywall, fiberglass insulation, and even spray foam. Hope this helps.
Hello Tim,
Thanks for the video. We are adding a bedroom and bathroom to the basement. The inspector said we need a Vertical draft stop every 10 feet . We have the horizontal block in. We have framed against a concrete wall that has the white insulation wrap.
My question is what is the best way to install the block. The wrap is against the studs but don't know what do. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Scott. Vertical draft stopping is required every 10’ horizontally from the floor to the ceiling. This is the space behind the studs to the foundation or to the foundation insulation. Fiberglass insulation is usually the easiest and most cost effective form of draft stopping material. It can be stuffed in between the studs and the foundation and that will act as the draft stop. Hope this helps.
@@PPRBD thank you for responding and I figured as much. But my next question is, does the window need to be completely surrounded by the the insulation ?
Thank you so much and it's very much appreciated
Sorry to resurrect an old YT comment, but I'm working on finishing our basement and will also be leaving the blanket wrap insulation in place. What did you end up having to do to pass the inspection? Was it just the top portion at the top plate and the bottom portion at the bottom plate, or did you have to cut into the wrap or otherwise push particle board on edge into the insulation and attach to the studs?
I'm about to finish a basement, so this is excellent info. I do have a question about the "every 10 foot" draft stopping. I was planning to run rigid foam around the concrete walls in my basement, and finish with wood studs in front of that. Does the stopping material have to go from the stud bay all the way back to the concrete, or can it simply make tight contact with the rigid foam (which would be much easier)?
Per the IRC 2015 code, rigid foam is not an approved draft stopping material. You might consider using fiberglass insulation. You should be able to stuff fiberglass unfaced insulation from the back of the stud to the face of the foundation wall every 10 feet. Hope this helps.
@@PPRBD But that would create area for mold and and water to collect. Every basement insulating video said not to have fiberglass touching the concrete wall.
@johnunsicker7440 It's weird that code does not approve rigid foam insulation panel as draftstops, but allows spray foam, because polyiso panels and spray foam are made of the same chemicals. I think it has more to do with what's been tested in labs than with efficacy.
Best video on the planet Earth! Thank you again! I have one more question. If the R-13 faced fiberglass insulation is installed between the studs do I still need to install foam (or other material) every 10 feet to prevent draft? Also, I'm wondering if the insulation can be combined. For example - 16" at the top install Rockwool as fire block and the rest use R-13 fiberglass insulation. Thank you!
Thank you for the compliment. We appreciate it and we hope the video was helpful. As for your question, If the insulation COMPLETELY fills the cavity from front to back and there is not a gap left, then the foam would not need to be used every 10’ for draft stop. Just keep in mind that the draft stopping is often checked at the frame inspection, before the insulation is put in. You'll want to have that discussion with your inspector if you plan to do it that way. You can also mix the rock wool and fiberglass without any issues. Hope that helps.
PLEASE ADVISE…Is it necessary to fill the holes in studs where wire is run horizontally….or…..will the draft stop every 10 feet be enough? Thank you for the informative video.
Hi there Trainman. Thanks for reaching out. You do not need to fireblock any penetration that runs horizontal through the studs. The only time fireblocking penetration is required is when you penetrate the top plate. Hope that helps.
@@PPRBD Thank you sir.
Can you use a window gap spray foam?
Hi there, thanks for reaching out. You can use a spray foam, but it must be one of the foams specifically designed for fireblocking. They can be purchased at home improvement stores. Hope that helps.
If you have a wall taller than 10 ft like the one you pointed out @4:39-4:54, can you just fill the whole thing with glass fiber insulation? You're going to insulate that wall anyways since it's an exterior wall, so what's the point of adding 2x members at 10', when you said glass fiber insulation works as a fire block. If you add a fire block with wood at 10', the 2x members will create a thermal bridge, and it's a waste of materials and labor if you're saying glass fiber insulation works as a firestop. You kind of addressed this question at 1:17 where you said fire blocking can be taken care of by insulation, but you said you can't see the fire blocking anymore once the insulation is installed. I can understand how it would be hard to see the framing in the other examples you gave like the gap between the studs and the foundation, but I don't see how that would be an issue in the the case of a wall framed over 10'.
There are gaps behind insulation that you would typically install for a wall. The gaps would allow air to flow horizontally along the walls and that could help spread a fire. That's why horizontal draft stopping is required every 10 ft along the wall and this must be inspected before you put your wall insulation in. Hope that helps.
@PPRBD I appreciate the response, but I was referring to vertical applications.
Thanks for the video. What made your dept decide to do this video? The rough explanation of it has been pretty helpful to understand it.
I have a unique situation and trying to fully understand the fire blocking layout. Basement, drop ceilings. If my basement ceiling is going to be stuffed with rock wool / mineral wool -- does that count as a vertical fire block? Do I still need to do the perimeter layout of osb/plywood that I see some ppl doing at the sill plate level before I put up the wall frames? I'm basically curious if the ceiling filled with rock wool will be a proper vertical block for everything without doing any else.
Also, I noticed in your video they all the joists have what looks like a 1 inch strip of plywood attached to them before the wood frame/stud is attached.
Thanks!
We decided to do this video because our inspectors were noticing a lot of problems, particularly with homeowners. We hope this video helps prevent a lot of the common problems that pop up with basement finishes.
As for your situation, while mineral wool in the ceiling will protect the floor above, it does not satisfy the fireblocking requirements. The gap between the framed walls and the concrete walls still needs to be fireblocked, and all annular space at penetrations still needs fireblocking as well. The 1” strip of plywood you see on the ceiling joists is actually the bottom chord of engineers joists, nothing was added to them.
Hope this helps.
Hi Tim, do I need draft stopping for my basement that has wrapped insulation on the walls?
The framers have built out the walls and have done the fireblocking, but I don’t see draft blocking every 10ft.
@@gregoryschultz3063 Hi Gregory. If you have a basement with insulated concrete walls, as long as the framing is in contact with the insulation, including the gap at the top, that functions as your draftstop. Hope this helps.
Is fire-resistant foam also applied to the holes for the wires?
Hi there. Thanks for watching. Yes. The holes in the top plate need to be fireblocked, but the holes that go horizontally between stud bays do not need to be fireblocked. Hope that helps.
Great video on Fire & Draft Blocking, I learned A Lot!! Does the mineral wool have to extend down a few inches ( 6-12" ) into the stud cavity or just pack it in the space above? Thanks again for the Great Video!
Thanks for the feedback Randy. We're glad the video was helpful. To your question - The code states that the fire blocking must be a minimum of 16”. The code section that discusses this is R302.11.1.2 Unfaced Fiberglass. It states: "Unfaced Fiberglass batt insulation used as fireblocking shall fill the entire cross section of the wall cavity to a height of not less than 16 inches measured vertically. Where piping, conduit, or similar obstructions are encountered, the insulation shall be packed tightly around the obstruction." Hope this helps.
Thanks for the information! How would this apply to balloon-framed construction? I imagine fire-blocking would be required between the first floor and attic/second floor, but how about between the crawlspace and first floor wall cavities? And if fire-blocking is required in this scenario, how does one deal with potential moisture traps that old balloon-framed houses with nonexistent or insufficient sheathing or weather-resistant barriers are prone to?
Hi there. You are correct in that those areas do need to be fireblocked as well. You are not required to use fiberglass insulation in all situations though. There are several code approved materials for fireblocking so I have included the code section for you. In the Regional Building Code it is R302.11.1 Fireblocking Materials. 2” nominal lumber blocking will probably be the best product in the case that you are describing but all of the methods are acceptable. Hope that helps.
@@PPRBD Thank you! I was aware that a variety of materials could be used, but I wasn't sure if even wooden blocking could create moisture traps. It sounds like it would be fine though. Of course, my existing studs are actual dimension lumber with uneven spacing, so I'm not looking forward to fitting each piece individually....
How come a single top plate?
This definitely helps me with my basement refinish, but I've got a question. My basement has builder installed blanket insulation, my walls are going outside of that. What should I use as a fireblock between the walls and the blanket insulation?
If the framing sits against the blanket nothing else is required. If there is a gap left at the top stuff it with fiberglass insulation. Hope this helps.
Thank you for asking this question. This is my situation as well.
I’m assuming the same principle applies to vertical draft stopping? Assuming that the builder installed insulation covers the gap?
This is a terrific video, btw.
I am trying to frame up some walls in my basement and found 2 by 4 lumber for the wall framing would be too much money, so by code in Colorado can you use 2 by 3 lumber because if it is cheaper. Also do you need to pull a permit to frame and drywall the exterior basement walls. I am not planing on doing electrical or plumbing. I am not going to make it a livable area I just want to be able to paint the walls to make the basement brighter. I’m not going to put flooring, rooms, or bathrooms. Hopefully you can help me out
You can use 2x3 but nothing smaller. You will need a permit for the framing. Any alteration to the structure as far as framing, needs a permit.
I found your video looking for fire stuff. How about double top plates. 2 plates are required for load bearing walls and the rating between multiple floors. Gives more time to prevent fire in stud cavity to penetrate floor system above? correct? single top plates are rated 1hr just like solid blocking i believe. so is 2 plates a 2 hr between floors?
No. Per the American Wood Council a double top plate will give an hour.
Great video. I'm working on remodeling an old brick townhouse. Do I need to install fireblockling and/or draft stop on top of the furr out walls (2x4) below the roof?
Hi Carolina. The answer is yes. On a furred out wall, we are looking for the fire blocking to close the gap at, A. Top of the wall, B. Every 10’ horizontally. It’s recommended, but not required, to do it around windows as well. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the informative video. Can batted insulation be used on the walls behind the frame for the fire block?
Yes, when tightly packed into the space, fiberglass batt insulation is acceptable.
The approved list doesn’t say fiberglass. I’m under the impression it’s allowed but only if it’s 16” am I wrong? I see by the sophet they have it but not by the double wall
Unfaced fiberglass insulation is an approved fire stop material, but it must be used in lengths of at least 16” long or longer and it must fill the entire stud cavity and be packed tightly around pipes and other obstructions. Hope this helps.
Pikes Peak Regional Building Department thank you
i have builders dispute the fire blocking at 10 foot high rule.. lets say its a 12 foot high interior wall with no blocking.. where in the 2012 IRC does it say to do that.. i only find 10 foot rule horizontally and not vertical..
There is no requirement for vertical fireblocking inside of a single, stand-alone wall that does not connect 2 floors except at the ceiling and floor levels of the wall. If a wall is 12’ tall and does not connect 2 floors then it only has to be fireblocked at the top and bottom of the wall. Check out code section R302.11 in the 2015 IRC.
But holes after electrical not foamed between studs
Fiberglass insulation is a mineral wool insulation
Florida -PB- inspector wanted caulking around horizontal- top 1x2 attached to exterior masonry wall for drywall attachment and he kept saying it was draft blocking. I thought he was an idiot-still do.
Great video...gave a thumbs up.
He says after insulation installation fire proofing can't be verified... well glass fiber insulation installed full height of the wall converts a hallow space to a solid space and so the code doesn't apply since the cavity is no longer hallow!!!
That's not accurate. We would need to see the fireblocking at top plate penetrations before insulation is completed. These penetrations have to be fireblocked in accordance with 302.11 #4 in the 2015 IRC.
@@PPRBD yup it doesn't matter if it makes sense, it only matters how the code says! Or else no permit! 😅
Fire Protection :) passion for life
Good thing you got a hard hat on
The insulation used as fire blocking at the top of the wall and in between studs is this video is not "secured in place". If a fire starts inside the wall, it creates a lot of pressure and will move the insulation. When I'm inspection insulation used for fire blocking my rule of thumb is if I can move it with my hands/fingers, it fails. The same goes for any of the other "approved materials"...they must be secured in place.
All the code says is that the insulation is to be securely retained. It doesn’t say fastened or give any reference as to how that is to be achieved.
Seems like they're using anything.... our code requires fire foam everywhere....it's reddish orange.... fiberglass insulation burns faster than a 2x4... rock wool would be better if it's secure.... most of that draft and blocking looks like you can push it back with no effort
But you can use firebatt not olny instructions
Fiberglass insulation and foam ia just crap as fire preventive materials, but that what they want, any wood house should use 5/8 X drywall.
Hi sir, thanks for reaching out. To be clear, the fiberglass insulation and foam isn't so much to stop a fire, its to block air flow and slow a fire down. If you want to go above and beyond the code with 5/8 drywall, you can do that, but its not required. Hope that helps.
@@PPRBD Thanks for reply.