Many thanks Roger - another very helpful video. I was contemplating a resin drive but I'll now give it a miss - delivery vehicles, parking and yellowing etc were very good points for me to consider.. Great stuff - look forward to the next video. Best wishes Peter
Ive never seen a good resin drive past a few years. I think a high quality paver would look and last nicer personally, plus its easy to relevel and maintain.
i went away from resin bound having seen a number of bad ones. Opted for gravel grids and loose shingle. Easy to level and minimal shingle spreading, we are on a hill works really well
Trouble is that most pavers are concrete and they lose their colour and the grit shows up in a few years. I've had Accrington Nori clay pavers on my drive since 1992 and had them re laid last year. Looks like new. Clay holds its colour and they're as hard as rock. No man made dye holds its colour IMO. Grant you that you did say a high quality paver but clay these days is so expensive but a good investment if you plan on staying put.
Thank you Roger, yeah found that really interesting. When resin drives first came out I thought that would be the perfect material to use for my own drive, when I get round to doing it but after seeing so many that's failed for one reason or another I think I might go for corbels or some sort of pavers using GFTK for the jointing. Another problem with resin drives is they attract the build up of moss if not regularly cleaned, so I believe. Another subject I think would be compelling and that is different types of decking or even just composite decking as there are many different types now on the market. Anyway hope you're keeping as well as you look in this video 😃 ☮️+❤ always from me and the missus✌️
never forget truning up one monday on a private job when theyd had some 'freelancers' in over the weekend laying a resin drive. They had left their leftover resin in the mixer! it doesnt shatter, doesnt burn, the mixer drum was a write off
My in-law has resin bound laid about 6 years ago, it needed some repairs this year. It still has some minor areas of surface loosening. The second issue is colour, it’s a lot more dull after the years of sunlight exposure, lost it’s sheen and wow factor.
The resin is often Bisphenol A , the chemical that people get their knickers in a twist about thats in plastic bottles and packaging in parts per million. Yet they're happy to spread buckets of the concentrated stuff all over the front of their houses
Seen some look great after years. Others with reflective cracking from poor sub base , and a lot with tyre tracks etc (assume these are the cast ones where the aggregate gets ground off by vehicular movement). Like the look of them, hadn't considered UV aspect.
Also make sure whoever is doing it can do it in 1 go. I’ve seen a few on our estate that either didn’t order enough material or work day finished, the joint where they left off stuck out like a sore thumb! Either the mix wasn’t the same amount or it’s the way they left it on a straight line.
I strongly recommend Graphite powder on ur resin mix with dark grabber, UV resistance n heat transference plus it makes the bound a lot more stronger. (I does increase the electrical resistance of the mix)
Yep, very interesting Rog. Ive not yet seen the perfect material for the perfect drive. The resin bonded dives look good when new as do alot of the other surfacing materials, but......
They're doing the permeable tarmac layer today on ours for the resin to laid Friday. Rated for all our vans and ev's to be on top, isn't too bad they average 3.5 tonne a vehicle. It's supposed to be UV stable but we'll see.
@@SkillBuilder I used the resin bound kits as such a small area, block paved the area in. Ruled of the blocks. Acetone handy to keep tools clean. Man of your skill a walk in the park. Thanks for the videos. Learnt alot. The rising damp, damp etc series saved me a lot of money.👍
One of the local resin firms came round to estimate a few years ago. I have block pavers already but looking a bit tired. He said he would leave the pavers in place and resin over the top. So glad I left it as it is.
The right thing? It is not advised to resin over block pavers mate especially on a driveway or any drove over area. A solid base of porous concrete or base tarmac is a MUST for a drive. If its a path of a patio area then you could get away with it but you would still have to know what your doing to stop the weeds growing through the gaps in the blocks then out of the resin. The reason you cant resin over blocks on a drive is because there is too much movement and the risk of a future remedial is almost guaranteed.
Thanks Roger 👍 We’re on a very limited budget, with tatty weedy granite gravel and old cracked concrete drive. I think we’ll go all gravel, and resin a path up to the front door, bordered by reclaimed brick pavers. We’ve seen the pour on resin, just to stop it sliding around? I wanted to hire a digger but husband wouldn’t let me so we’re halfway through doing it by hand with a pick axe. Gawd give us strength! 😂
Edinburgh might have been the first to do this with glass in the uk back in the early 2000's as I was working at a polymer makers HQ, I was there doing IT support and the head tech was talking to me about some of the polymers they had worked on. Some of the other stuff that I bet is still under nda was very intereating, lets just say you can get polyurethane polymers that can take a seriously big bang and still hold in the contents. But it cost a lot to make things from it. I guess drivea are the same.
Resin bound tends to also attract the dirt and after a while the stains will never come out. Also low level light like for instance on a wall to light the driveway will show up every undulation and it looks terrible. Resin bond (cast) I’m my opinion a much better option.
Properly installed resin bound through an experienced and reputable maker such as the quality RonaDeck product laid onto open graded asphalt for example, a permeable driveway works well and does not require planning permission unlike an impermeable surface which does. SUDS principle is that your rain water does not run onto the public highway. Strength is all about the proper subsurface material laid correctly by approved installers, then it is unlikely to break under lorries. (Best not to install onto old concrete if there are any cracks there, also ten year warranties can be void if not installed onto an approved depth and structure of subsurface.)
I had resin bound aggregate laid over concrete for my backyard, which is separate from the driveway, so has no vehicular traffic. Before, there was much standing water which now quickly drains through the resin. However, that works both ways as small weeds can still show. The sandy coloured aggregate though, sparkles like a beach when the tide has retreated.
Just een your message in regard to resin pathway and would appreciate your feedback and any advise. I have a structurally sound concrete path with a manhole cover in its length. The path is an eyesaw. The path is slightly wider than a standard square main hole and around fifteen yards long. I intend to build a base for sheds at the bottom of the garden. It's only a small garden. From your experience would you cover this concrete path with a resin finish Or replace with pave stones.
Near me I see two problems with resin drives, firstly lots of weeds self-seed in them and secondly, it doesn't take much parking your car over time before bald patches appear in the parking spot. Personally, I'd put them in the pile with 70s avocado bathrooms & bi-fold doors..
My brother twice used one of those cheap! Cash, mobile number, fly by night individuals to tarmac his drive. He’ll never learn, they’re call travellers.
a way to do it as DIY drive or walk way is to use old car tires, cut out the side walls. dig down the width of the car tire plus say extra 3 inches, then place the tires side by side and nail them together, then fill in with small pebbles /gravel then slightly pack it down, then its just like concrete but water can drain through it.. the tires keeps the pebbles /gravel in place and wont let it spread out , strong enough to where you can even drive an 18 wheeler over it no problem.. will last for years and years...
How do these surfaces do in very cold temps, lets say beast from the east temps of -5C to -10C? Do they get brittle enough to crack, if not by themselves then when driven over? I'd also be concerned about water getting into microcracks during they day and then freezing at night, forcing the surface apart.
Resin driveways struck me as a product fixing a problem that didn't exist judging from the number of flyers coming through my letterbox. Wonder if those using them are the same people complaining about plastic bag use, yet perfectly happen to drop loads of liquid plastic on their drive when gravel or stone would do a better job & allow water to sink into the ground instead of flooding the local area.
Exactly. Stuff outside gets mossy, gets weeds growing in cracks, fades gets dusty, moves about a bit. There’s more peace of mind accepting this than fighting nature with surgical exterior decorations that they probably clean with dettol because of “ germs”.
Resin is completely porous and suds compliant. And so should the base be . If going over existing concrete with a fall then there would be no difference in the amount of water coming from your drive .
What about oil contamination? With tarmac or block paving, a bit of degreaser and a pressure washer will remove a fair bit of oil staining, how do resin bound driveways stand up? (Either to the oil or heavy pressure washing)
Great informative video as usual. I have been also been looking at GEOcell type driveways. It would be useful if you could also cover this and compare with resin bonded drives. It seems you put at least 20mm of stone above the Geocell itself to allow for settlement - which sounds fine - but is it in practice? To me the Geocell might be more 'forgiving' when you have large bushes near the edge of your drive. Appreciate any thoughts you have on the matter.
A word of warning. As a Driveway specialist we will never use Geocell or any form of it used for driveway (car, van etc use). If your driveway is straight and you don't turn on it it should be fine. If you turn on it the load applied to the grating distorts it slightly even if well pegged down and well compacted. Over a few years the stone fill is allowed to get underneath and slowly pushes the plastic grate up. We have seen them sticking up around 6 inches worst case where cars have repeatedly turned on it.
I’ve seen weeds growing through a few driveways at customers houses which I thought was strange.what makes that happen?And yes I know the fly by nights you mean but it’s not only Driveway’s they do.
I laboured for a bloke doing patios driveways etc. All of a sudden everyone was asking for resin 90% of driveway we did somebody wanted resin bound system installed. After a few years he did end up getting call backs for colour problems slight movement. The main problem was people dry steering on the driveway causing movement. I must add all preparations were done properly, he was a craftsman but it still caused headaches. Research and be prepared for what Roger has pointed out.
We converted 90% of our front garden into parking. Looked at resin but it was too much of a stretch for our budget and I was put off by the horror stories. Had a local driveway contractor put tarmac down and they did a very thorough job excavating, putting MOT sub base down and compacting before the tarmac went anywhere near it. Almost six years later, apart from UV fading common to all tarmac, it still performs as well as the day it was new and we've had no issues with it so far. The only maintenance it requires is the occasional moss clean.
Bought a house with a resin bound drive about 3 years ago. Had been down about 10 years. Looked fantastic when we bought the house - indeed it was one of the selling points (it's a fair-size driveway). Anyway, the whole thing has disintegrated in the last couple of years and all the stones have come loose, especially round the path of the cars. I guess the resin has just deteriorated over the years. It's a pain as all the little stones get trod into the house (wooden floors!). Not sure I could recommend resin bound drives based on ours. It might be a bad job, done by a bad contractor - who knows. We have to get the whole thing replaced now. It cost about £13k to put down and that was 12-13 years ago, so yearly cost (adjusting for inflation) is well over a grand per year, which doesn't seem great. I'm now thinking about block paving, but worried about weeds in the gaps.
@@MC-nb6jx Aye it's all about the hardcore (ooer missus!) & compacting correctly, prep is everything with these jobs, I used to lay concrete founds, slabs & driveways, they are all still fine since the early 80-'s i'm sure......
Neighbour got a new one a couple of months ago. Already the corner of his drive has got a big crack across it. He's probably drove in diagonally and the corner took the load. Looks ruined.
You are better using pavers as they can be uplifted for a my maintenance and service works that might need excavating for repair or updating and re installed at low cost
Been doing resin for years and there are lots of problems if you don’t know what you are doing ,mixing times are important ,rain is a no no ,glass is just cosmetic ,quartz is a binder in resin instead of sand ,the base is the most important part porous concrete is great but very few people know how to lay it in the uk you only have a short window when laying and must be covered up to stop the moisture evaporating during setting,open grade tarmac is good,have now moved over to lay on grids great permeability no mess easy to level and can be done with less labour.
I had resin drive laid on grids. Unfortunately the drive started to disintegrate after 3 years mainly where the car tyres sat. The rest of the drive is now starting to disintegrate with the small chippings getting trailed into the house and car. Is it possible to patch bad areas and put a layer of resin over the remaining drive to prolong its life? Also what is the recommended thickness of the resin to be laid?
We use the grids too for the same reason. We think it is risky to put over any large areas of concrete. Resin works well on a steep driveway, it solved a problem where tarmac just scrubbed off the driveway with the cards wheels and block pavers just moved and concrete didnt look good. We have not had any problem with deterioration in the resin, but we use high quality UV resin from top brands, so many of the SB concerns raised are down to lack of experience and cheaper products (there are many version of resin).
It’s all about the base. Be careful covering different materials - where they join. Eg concrete and tarmac. Cracks will appear between the join over time unless special preparation is done.
Resin bound is a permeable surface , resin bonded (scatter coat) is non permeable, UV stable resin is called an aliphatic resin and has more flexural strength than a non uv resin which is called an aromatic resin. Non UV stable resin for resin bound is not used as much as a UV stable resin binder any longer. Generally resin bonded (scatter coat) systems use a non UV resin. For any resin bound surfaces that are going to have vehicles using them the substrate MUST be a tarmac or concrete base. Aggregates must be a decorative aggregate which means that they are of a certain size, kiln dried and dust free.
I wouldn't worry about the UV resistance of quartz (either synthetic.... or more likely, the natural crushed mineral.) It would likely take hundred of millions of years for the Sun, as it currently emits, for quartz to be even slightly degraded by the UV from sunlight. Mechanically, quartz is harder than glass (scratches glass easily) and is much less brittle. The quartz in your resin driveway will be around, long after the driveway is gone, and long after all of mankind too.
@@SkillBuilder Yes, exactly... but there was discussion about suitable aggregates... that is whether glass or quartz are suitable aggregate... glass no... but quartz, why not?
Can anyone recommend how else to tidy up a concrete drive that’s extremely sound but rough to look at, it’s very large and thick so too expensive to remove.
It’s not dirty it’s rough, as in nearly impossible to walk on in bare foot and areas where stones from the ballast mix is starting to come out, there is not cracking however. Pressure washing won’t change this and paint will literally just change the colour. Can slabs be used on top if an even spread of mortar is used to bond to the the existing concrete?
@Mr_Ashley if it's flat and solid you could pave resin or tarmac over it as long as finished ground level is OK most installers won't give much if any guarantee if they've not done the groundwork though
We had ours done this time last year, still looks great. Time will tell of course but happy with ours so far looks like new. I did oil changes on both cars the other week and the inevitable little drips came off easily (although I cleaned them the same day) Would note we had ours fully re-done from scratch basically, no re-laying over the old (was cracked crazy paving before) I think every type has it's downsides, my parents block driveway they now find after 5-6 years weeds have managed to penetrate and minor gaps appear (nothing major but certainly not perfect)
@@SkillBuilder ours was laid in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions but only lasted 3 years before the surface started to degrade and look awful. After 6 years we replaced it with block pavers - much more durable and look better. Lesson learned 😂
It doesn’t last and costs a fortune. Use a cellular paving system if you want gravel less expensive and longer lasting - it’s a honeycomb of plastic incorporating weed membrane that contain the gravel making it very firm to walk, drive, push wheelbarrows, etc. The best systems are invisible and the entire job can be done, including excavation if needed and a new base, for less than resin bound systems
@@SkillBuilder yes, 10mm or smaller can be problematic, but the cellular paving helps. It’s really a solution for those on a tight budget. Larger grades aren’t an issue though. For practicality hard standing are better, cheap block paving would cost about the same a resin bound, although not as attractive. I advise clients that resin bound should be viewed as a temporary solution, a very expensive option at that.
I’m in the resin epoxy business and I would never do a coating if something was better. Just pave or install pavers. You know this is not going to last and delaminate. Plus dirt and crap gets all interlocked in there and it looks like shit. Don’t coat something when you can put something down more permanent
Nothing neither you can teach me here I'm a contractor.. and always representing the clients most recent contractors go out of business within tfive years i don't recommend in driveway s
@@SkillBuilder no wonder they fall apart under any use, I thought the resin bonding was like the plastic setting kits that you put your teeth in years ago.
Don't think about it getting this. Looks very pretty but can't handle vehicles. If you are just walking on it, then fine, but never get it for drive. It will crack within 2 years, and I'm a builder and have seen the work by so many driveway companies.
Hi Roger,always very eloquent. Very informative video.
Many thanks Roger - another very helpful video. I was contemplating a resin drive but I'll now give it a miss - delivery vehicles, parking and yellowing etc were very good points for me to consider..
Great stuff - look forward to the next video.
Best wishes
Peter
Ive never seen a good resin drive past a few years. I think a high quality paver would look and last nicer personally, plus its easy to relevel and maintain.
I always try and steer towards a nice sett or paver not always easy as some customers really like the idea of overlaying worn out tarmac drives
i went away from resin bound having seen a number of bad ones. Opted for gravel grids and loose shingle. Easy to level and minimal shingle spreading, we are on a hill works really well
Trouble is that most pavers are concrete and they lose their colour and the grit shows up in a few years. I've had Accrington Nori clay pavers on my drive since 1992 and had them re laid last year. Looks like new. Clay holds its colour and they're as hard as rock. No man made dye holds its colour IMO. Grant you that you did say a high quality paver but clay these days is so expensive but a good investment if you plan on staying put.
Easy to level? Easy to maintain?
Are you literally insane?
Mine has been up since 2021. No issues at all so far, seems well made.
Thank you Roger, yeah found that really interesting.
When resin drives first came out I thought that would be the perfect material to use for my own drive, when I get round to doing it but after seeing so many that's failed for one reason or another I think I might go for corbels or some sort of pavers using GFTK for the jointing.
Another problem with resin drives is they attract the build up of moss if not regularly cleaned, so I believe.
Another subject I think would be compelling and that is different types of decking or even just composite decking as there are many different types now on the market.
Anyway hope you're keeping as well as you look in this video 😃
☮️+❤ always from me and the missus✌️
never forget truning up one monday on a private job when theyd had some 'freelancers' in over the weekend laying a resin drive. They had left their leftover resin in the mixer! it doesnt shatter, doesnt burn, the mixer drum was a write off
Always wondered what happened to drago after rocky iv..... love the channel, great info...
Nice video Roger👍👍
Thank you for the information
My in-law has resin bound laid about 6 years ago, it needed some repairs this year. It still has some minor areas of surface loosening. The second issue is colour, it’s a lot more dull after the years of sunlight exposure, lost it’s sheen and wow factor.
Great video very helpful!
The resin is often Bisphenol A , the chemical that people get their knickers in a twist about thats in plastic bottles and packaging in parts per million. Yet they're happy to spread buckets of the concentrated stuff all over the front of their houses
Damn BPA thx 4 info
Is there a barrier that can be used like for a example for epoxy floors I use at times a vapor barrier. Is there such thing
Seen some look great after years. Others with reflective cracking from poor sub base , and a lot with tyre tracks etc (assume these are the cast ones where the aggregate gets ground off by vehicular movement). Like the look of them, hadn't considered UV aspect.
Also make sure whoever is doing it can do it in 1 go. I’ve seen a few on our estate that either didn’t order enough material or work day finished, the joint where they left off stuck out like a sore thumb! Either the mix wasn’t the same amount or it’s the way they left it on a straight line.
I strongly recommend Graphite powder on ur resin mix with dark grabber, UV resistance n heat transference plus it makes the bound a lot more stronger. (I does increase the electrical resistance of the mix)
Yep, very interesting Rog.
Ive not yet seen the perfect material for the perfect drive. The resin bonded dives look good when new as do alot of the other surfacing materials, but......
They're doing the permeable tarmac layer today on ours for the resin to laid Friday. Rated for all our vans and ev's to be on top, isn't too bad they average 3.5 tonne a vehicle. It's supposed to be UV stable but we'll see.
you could add a fibreglass mesh under stuck with the primer add a bit strength
I did my path myself, lovely easy product to work with and great finish . But not convinced driveways will stand the test of time.
did you do the resin bonded cast or the resin bound? I want to have a go at it
@@SkillBuilder I used the resin bound kits as such a small area, block paved the area in. Ruled of the blocks.
Acetone handy to keep tools clean.
Man of your skill a walk in the park.
Thanks for the videos. Learnt alot.
The rising damp, damp etc series saved me a lot of money.👍
One of the local resin firms came round to estimate a few years ago. I have block pavers already but looking a bit tired. He said he would leave the pavers in place and resin over the top. So glad I left it as it is.
Yes you did the right thing, it was never going to work.
The right thing? It is not advised to resin over block pavers mate especially on a driveway or any drove over area. A solid base of porous concrete or base tarmac is a MUST for a drive. If its a path of a patio area then you could get away with it but you would still have to know what your doing to stop the weeds growing through the gaps in the blocks then out of the resin. The reason you cant resin over blocks on a drive is because there is too much movement and the risk of a future remedial is almost guaranteed.
Thanks Roger 👍 We’re on a very limited budget, with tatty weedy granite gravel and old cracked concrete drive. I think we’ll go all gravel, and resin a path up to the front door, bordered by reclaimed brick pavers. We’ve seen the pour on resin, just to stop it sliding around? I wanted to hire a digger but husband wouldn’t let me so we’re halfway through doing it by hand with a pick axe. Gawd give us strength! 😂
Thanks
Never stop learning
Thank you very much sir.
I like Rogers holiday mansion 4:50, very upmarket. 😄
That’s just the servants quarters
Edinburgh might have been the first to do this with glass in the uk back in the early 2000's as I was working at a polymer makers HQ, I was there doing IT support and the head tech was talking to me about some of the polymers they had worked on.
Some of the other stuff that I bet is still under nda was very intereating, lets just say you can get polyurethane polymers that can take a seriously big bang and still hold in the contents.
But it cost a lot to make things from it.
I guess drivea are the same.
Resin bound tends to also attract the dirt and after a while the stains will never come out. Also low level light like for instance on a wall to light the driveway will show up every undulation and it looks terrible.
Resin bond (cast) I’m my opinion a much better option.
Properly installed resin bound through an experienced and reputable maker such as the quality RonaDeck product laid onto open graded asphalt for example, a permeable driveway works well and does not require planning permission unlike an impermeable surface which does. SUDS principle is that your rain water does not run onto the public highway. Strength is all about the proper subsurface material laid correctly by approved installers, then it is unlikely to break under lorries. (Best not to install onto old concrete if there are any cracks there, also ten year warranties can be void if not installed onto an approved depth and structure of subsurface.)
I had resin bound aggregate laid over concrete for my backyard, which is separate from the driveway, so has no vehicular traffic. Before, there was much standing water which now quickly drains through the resin. However, that works both ways as small weeds can still show. The sandy coloured aggregate though, sparkles like a beach when the tide has retreated.
Just spot treat the weeds with glyphosate 😉😉
Just een your message in regard to resin pathway and would appreciate your feedback and any advise.
I have a structurally sound concrete path with a manhole cover in its length.
The path is an eyesaw.
The path is slightly wider than a standard square main hole and around fifteen yards long.
I intend to build a base for sheds at the bottom of the garden.
It's only a small garden.
From your experience would you cover this concrete path with a resin finish
Or replace with pave stones.
Near me I see two problems with resin drives, firstly lots of weeds self-seed in them and secondly, it doesn't take much parking your car over time before bald patches appear in the parking spot. Personally, I'd put them in the pile with 70s avocado bathrooms & bi-fold doors..
Couple of new builds up the road fro me have resin drives and they aren't wearing very well after 6 months.
It's basically a plastic surface. Would fit nicely with that plastic grass that some people like.
yes I hate the fake lawns.
@SkillBuilder what bonds the plastic? Epoxy?
My brother twice used one of those cheap! Cash, mobile number, fly by night individuals to tarmac his drive. He’ll never learn, they’re call travellers.
Nice old fashioned gravel please. These (and pavers) just look so Barratt homes.
a way to do it as DIY drive or walk way is to use old car tires, cut out the side walls. dig down the width of the car tire plus say extra 3 inches, then place the tires side by side and nail them together, then fill in with small pebbles /gravel then slightly pack it down, then its just like concrete but water can drain through it.. the tires keeps the pebbles /gravel in place and wont let it spread out , strong enough to where you can even drive an 18 wheeler over it no problem.. will last for years and years...
How do these surfaces do in very cold temps, lets say beast from the east temps of -5C to -10C? Do they get brittle enough to crack, if not by themselves then when driven over? I'd also be concerned about water getting into microcracks during they day and then freezing at night, forcing the surface apart.
Resin driveways struck me as a product fixing a problem that didn't exist judging from the number of flyers coming through my letterbox. Wonder if those using them are the same people complaining about plastic bag use, yet perfectly happen to drop loads of liquid plastic on their drive when gravel or stone would do a better job & allow water to sink into the ground instead of flooding the local area.
Exactly. Stuff outside gets mossy, gets weeds growing in cracks, fades gets dusty, moves about a bit. There’s more peace of mind accepting this than fighting nature with surgical exterior decorations that they probably clean with dettol because of “ germs”.
Resin is completely porous and suds compliant. And so should the base be .
If going over existing concrete with a fall then there would be no difference in the amount of water coming from your drive .
Yea I love graver or stone kicked up everywhere looks tidy
What about oil contamination? With tarmac or block paving, a bit of degreaser and a pressure washer will remove a fair bit of oil staining, how do resin bound driveways stand up? (Either to the oil or heavy pressure washing)
👍👍👍.Thank you
Thank you too
Great informative video as usual.
I have been also been looking at GEOcell type driveways. It would be useful if you could also cover this and compare with resin bonded drives.
It seems you put at least 20mm of stone above the Geocell itself to allow for settlement - which sounds fine - but is it in practice?
To me the Geocell might be more 'forgiving' when you have large bushes near the edge of your drive.
Appreciate any thoughts you have on the matter.
A word of warning. As a Driveway specialist we will never use Geocell or any form of it used for driveway (car, van etc use). If your driveway is straight and you don't turn on it it should be fine. If you turn on it the load applied to the grating distorts it slightly even if well pegged down and well compacted. Over a few years the stone fill is allowed to get underneath and slowly pushes the plastic grate up. We have seen them sticking up around 6 inches worst case where cars have repeatedly turned on it.
Wondering if you can do for heated floor slab on grade instead of concrete
I’ve seen weeds growing through a few driveways at customers houses which I thought was strange.what makes that happen?And yes I know the fly by nights you mean but it’s not only Driveway’s they do.
I like resin bonded as it’s grippy
I laboured for a bloke doing patios driveways etc. All of a sudden everyone was asking for resin 90% of driveway we did somebody wanted resin bound system installed. After a few years he did end up getting call backs for colour problems slight movement. The main problem was people dry steering on the driveway causing movement. I must add all preparations were done properly, he was a craftsman but it still caused headaches.
Research and be prepared for what Roger has pointed out.
Dry steering with an electric car is going to churn up most things. They are a lot heavier
What type of temperatures allow for these kinds of driveways/sidewalks will it withstand negative temperatures and handle a northern winter just fine?
We converted 90% of our front garden into parking. Looked at resin but it was too much of a stretch for our budget and I was put off by the horror stories. Had a local driveway contractor put tarmac down and they did a very thorough job excavating, putting MOT sub base down and compacting before the tarmac went anywhere near it. Almost six years later, apart from UV fading common to all tarmac, it still performs as well as the day it was new and we've had no issues with it so far. The only maintenance it requires is the occasional moss clean.
Bought a house with a resin bound drive about 3 years ago. Had been down about 10 years. Looked fantastic when we bought the house - indeed it was one of the selling points (it's a fair-size driveway).
Anyway, the whole thing has disintegrated in the last couple of years and all the stones have come loose, especially round the path of the cars. I guess the resin has just deteriorated over the years. It's a pain as all the little stones get trod into the house (wooden floors!). Not sure I could recommend resin bound drives based on ours. It might be a bad job, done by a bad contractor - who knows. We have to get the whole thing replaced now. It cost about £13k to put down and that was 12-13 years ago, so yearly cost (adjusting for inflation) is well over a grand per year, which doesn't seem great.
I'm now thinking about block paving, but worried about weeds in the gaps.
Does'nt look as posh, but our concreted drive has been down for 30 years & still fine.......lol.
Well sadly it wasn’t installed properly in the first place..
@@MC-nb6jx Aye it's all about the hardcore (ooer missus!) & compacting correctly, prep is everything with these jobs, I used to lay concrete founds, slabs & driveways, they are all still fine since the early 80-'s i'm sure......
Nice on patios
Can you lay it on top of block paving
Neighbour got a new one a couple of months ago.
Already the corner of his drive has got a big crack across it.
He's probably drove in diagonally and the corner took the load. Looks ruined.
Possibly one of the most expensive type of drive way you could do...if it’s done correctly underneath
You are better using pavers as they can be uplifted for a my maintenance and service works that might need excavating for repair or updating and re installed at low cost
Been doing resin for years and there are lots of problems if you don’t know what you are doing ,mixing times are important ,rain is a no no ,glass is just cosmetic ,quartz is a binder in resin instead of sand ,the base is the most important part porous concrete is great but very few people know how to lay it in the uk you only have a short window when laying and must be covered up to stop the moisture evaporating during setting,open grade tarmac is good,have now moved over to lay on grids great permeability no mess easy to level and can be done with less labour.
Can we come and film you?
I had resin drive laid on grids. Unfortunately the drive started to disintegrate after 3 years mainly where the car tyres sat. The rest of the drive is now starting to disintegrate with the small chippings getting trailed into the house and car.
Is it possible to patch bad areas and put a layer of resin over the remaining drive to prolong its life?
Also what is the recommended thickness of the resin to be laid?
We use the grids too for the same reason. We think it is risky to put over any large areas of concrete. Resin works well on a steep driveway, it solved a problem where tarmac just scrubbed off the driveway with the cards wheels and block pavers just moved and concrete didnt look good. We have not had any problem with deterioration in the resin, but we use high quality UV resin from top brands, so many of the SB concerns raised are down to lack of experience and cheaper products (there are many version of resin).
what can you use to colour restore without sealing it making water stand on top
Lot of people who live in caravans .......supply and lay this stuff, and gives the reputable companies a bad name
U didnt mention exspansion joints
Wgen it qant ro move
Block pavers any day. Long lasting durable and decorative.
lol yeah right my neigbours have had one replace after 3 months the job was so bad it was sinking without even any cars being on it once.
It’s all about the base. Be careful covering different materials - where they join. Eg concrete and tarmac. Cracks will appear between the join over time unless special preparation is done.
You can't beat a gravel drive. it's good for security aswell
These look good but I’m dubious in the UKs wet climate that it won’t break up.
done properly it is long-lasting
They collect rubber like Santa pod raceway
Resin bound is a permeable surface , resin bonded (scatter coat) is non permeable, UV stable resin is called an aliphatic resin and has more flexural strength than a non uv resin which is called an aromatic resin. Non UV stable resin for resin bound is not used as much as a UV stable resin binder any longer. Generally resin bonded (scatter coat) systems use a non UV resin. For any resin bound surfaces that are going to have vehicles using them the substrate MUST be a tarmac or concrete base. Aggregates must be a decorative aggregate which means that they are of a certain size, kiln dried and dust free.
From my experience they do not last more than a few years, if you're lucky! Block paving is much better or even tarmac!
My friend had her drive way and it didn't turn out good
At over £200 a square metre, we skipped it and went for gravel 😉
I wish Roger was my next door neighbour.
I wouldn't worry about the UV resistance of quartz (either synthetic.... or more likely, the natural crushed mineral.) It would likely take hundred of millions of years for the Sun, as it currently emits, for quartz to be even slightly degraded by the UV from sunlight. Mechanically, quartz is harder than glass (scratches glass easily) and is much less brittle. The quartz in your resin driveway will be around, long after the driveway is gone, and long after all of mankind too.
It is the resin binder that degrades not the stone
@@SkillBuilder Yes, exactly... but there was discussion about suitable aggregates... that is whether glass or quartz are suitable aggregate... glass no... but quartz, why not?
A porous driveway in Britain 🤣🤣No, to be fair I do remember seeing one of those once back in 1983.
Can anyone recommend how else to tidy up a concrete drive that’s extremely sound but rough to look at, it’s very large and thick so too expensive to remove.
Paint it. Loads of good products out.
Acid stain
Try pressure washer if you haven’t already
It’s not dirty it’s rough, as in nearly impossible to walk on in bare foot and areas where stones from the ballast mix is starting to come out, there is not cracking however. Pressure washing won’t change this and paint will literally just change the colour. Can slabs be used on top if an even spread of mortar is used to bond to the the existing concrete?
@Mr_Ashley if it's flat and solid you could pave resin or tarmac over it as long as finished ground level is OK most installers won't give much if any guarantee if they've not done the groundwork though
Another great vid from Roger. Resin driveways look awful ☹
That is interesting, I quite like them.
We had ours done this time last year, still looks great. Time will tell of course but happy with ours so far looks like new. I did oil changes on both cars the other week and the inevitable little drips came off easily (although I cleaned them the same day)
Would note we had ours fully re-done from scratch basically, no re-laying over the old (was cracked crazy paving before)
I think every type has it's downsides, my parents block driveway they now find after 5-6 years weeds have managed to penetrate and minor gaps appear (nothing major but certainly not perfect)
@@SkillBuilder ours was laid in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions but only lasted 3 years before the surface started to degrade and look awful. After 6 years we replaced it with block pavers - much more durable and look better. Lesson learned 😂
Is this not real slippy?
I keep seeing rusty marks on them..
Those drives look like a future nightmare waiting to happen
Don't understand how resin can allow water to drain away.
because it binds irregular shaped gravel, the resin leaves lots of tiny pathways. Watch this
czcams.com/video/T4vrKcxGEZk/video.html
theres a youtube channel D&G projects they do resin drives but i dont think they do a proper job please watch how they do it
D&j
Lol at all these comments about clay paviours, uk production ceased years ago, impossible to spec on domestic drive.
I have seen several clay paviours put down in the last two years. I don't know whrere they come from but I will see if I can find out.
Resin driveways look horrendous
It doesn’t last and costs a fortune. Use a cellular paving system if you want gravel less expensive and longer lasting - it’s a honeycomb of plastic incorporating weed membrane that contain the gravel making it very firm to walk, drive, push wheelbarrows, etc. The best systems are invisible and the entire job can be done, including excavation if needed and a new base, for less than resin bound systems
Gravel is a nightmare, it ends up in your house, always.
@@SkillBuilder yes, 10mm or smaller can be problematic, but the cellular paving helps. It’s really a solution for those on a tight budget. Larger grades aren’t an issue though.
For practicality hard standing are better, cheap block paving would cost about the same a resin bound, although not as attractive.
I advise clients that resin bound should be viewed as a temporary solution, a very expensive option at that.
I’m in the resin epoxy business and I would never do a coating if something was better. Just pave or install pavers. You know this is not going to last and delaminate. Plus dirt and crap gets all interlocked in there and it looks like shit. Don’t coat something when you can put something down more permanent
Nothing neither you can teach me here I'm a contractor.. and always representing the clients most recent contractors go out of business within tfive years i don't recommend in driveway s
Will very soon go out of fashion (thankfully).
Newer Electric cars weigh on average 30% more than a 'normal' vehicle, food for thought
Can you tell me how to do a repair if it ever gets damaged?...
Can you..?..
Can anyone?
And if your water main goes like my brother's did you'll be PISSED
I would always lay a new watermain before doing a drive. It is very cheap to run a bit of pipe in.
Just lay granite setts. Much better and Will last forever.
It’s never sold as a maintenance free product because it’s not
Zero drainage
It is permeable
Car’s especially EVs are heavy
Zero rain absorption, so massive run off. Old bricks with mossy gaps much nicer.
Did you not watch the video? This surface is very absorbent.
@@SkillBuilder no wonder they fall apart under any use, I thought the resin bonding was like the plastic setting kits that you put your teeth in years ago.
They soon become covered in moss
I love a bit of moss.
6:48 EV cars weigh a lot more, all the batteries
Why don't they just call it Epoxy, Resin ???
Sounds very toxic
Plastic driveways. Does nobody see an issue with this from an environmental point of view? I assume they end up going to landfill after a few years.
Such a bad idea in terms of maintenance. The rocks break out then you step on them and curse how much you spent on thos bad idea
Don't think about it getting this. Looks very pretty but can't handle vehicles. If you are just walking on it, then fine, but never get it for drive. It will crack within 2 years, and I'm a builder and have seen the work by so many driveway companies.
My neighbour has 4 cars and a pickup truck. His resin drive is 12 years old and looks fine.
Surely, they just need thicker layers, that allow for the additional weight? Substrate etc
@@SkillBuilder all depends on what’s under it
I was expecting a Reggie Perrin mother-in-law reference somewhere in there regarding load bearing capacity 🦛 😉