Honda 3.5L V6 Timing Belt & Water Pump Replacement- Pilot, Ridgeline, Odyssey.
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- čas přidán 2. 09. 2020
- In this video we will replace a Honda 3.5L V6 Timing Belt & Water Pump. The vehicle that I'm working on is a 2011 Pilot but the procedure is the same from the Ridgeline and the Odyssey as well. This 3.5L engine has been used for a very long time and is very common between many Honda and Acura models. The timing belt, water pump, tensioner, and idlers are wear parts that must be replaced at the 100k mile service. I also installed a fresh thermostat while I had the coolant drained from the engine. While doing the timing belt and water pump replacement I found the motor mount under the computer needed to be replaced as well. So, it's a good time to do a general inspection of your engine compartment while you have the vehicle apart. Here are some of the tools and parts that I used to complete the timing belt service:
Tools:
Crank Pulley Holding Tool: amzn.to/3gT8a8Z
19mm Crank Bolt Socket: amzn.to/2F5Pu8t
Full Set of Crank Pulley Sockets: amzn.to/3bqVncQ
Impact Gun: amzn.to/3jO3kvz
Parts:
Timing Kit: amzn.to/35fVRS3
Thermostat: amzn.to/2QRiWll
Thermostat Gasket: amzn.to/3lPdnlS
Motor Mount: amzn.to/3jHxNLG
Concentrated Coolant (needs diluted): amzn.to/2QSQboE
Diluted Coolant: amzn.to/351AhAi
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Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user Repair Geek makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. Repair Geek shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by Repair Geek and therefore, Repair Geek does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge Repair Geek or anyone affiliated with Repair Geek, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Here are some of the tools and parts that I used to complete the timing belt service:
Tools:
Crank Pulley Holding Tool: amzn.to/3gT8a8Z
19mm Crank Bolt Socket: amzn.to/2F5Pu8t
Full Set of Crank Pulley Sockets: amzn.to/3bqVncQ
Impact Gun: amzn.to/3jO3kvz
Parts:
Timing Kit (Asin): amzn.to/35fVRS3
Timing Kit (OEM Honda): amzn.to/3sa9oSL
Thermostat: amzn.to/2QRiWll
Thermostat Gasket: amzn.to/3lPdnlS
Motor Mount: amzn.to/3jHxNLG
Concentrated Coolant (needs diluted): amzn.to/2QSQboE
Diluted Coolant: amzn.to/351AhAi
My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek
Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
its not just redline trim on the vue's its all v6 models 2004-2007 most of them were just fwd
Great video! Will the crank and valves cranks turn easily by hand when you’re putting belt on? Or will they only turn with a wrench?
I would have never believed that there's a "magic" Crank Bolt Socket, but you're spot on. With the same extact tools (impact and socket), I got the same results. I tried to use a standard socket and it did nothing but make noise. Thanks for the accurate video!
Thx for this video! I’m thinking the Asin parts are as good as oem Honda? !
Please I have question ,,,,what position should the arm of the gear lever be P or N ?
What a great video and so helpful! Thank You.
By following this I was able to replace the belt and pump on my 2016 Pilot with no problems.
I do have one recommendation. Use the release valve on the back side of the engine to drain your coolant from the block first. I did that and had almost no coolant flow out from the pump during the change.
Thanks again!
In Ohio after about 5-10 years they like to break off in the block when you go to loosen them. In my environment, not worth the risk.
I watched your video months ago when I successfully installed a timing belt on a 2012 Accord V6. Now I’m replacing my son’s timing belt on his 2011 Pilot. So, I’m watching again. Content like this is so helpful. I subscribed. Thanks
Mark the belt at TDC hash marks using a white marker and transfer the marks from old to new, this is the only sure way to keep the engine in time. You will 99% be 1 tooth off on the rear cam if you are a novice doing this.
great tip!
You are saying to mark all 3 sprockets at TDC and belt, then count the teeth between all of them on the new belt correct? Don’t mess with much timing belt stuff anymore. More gears in Diesel engines.
@@lucasamick7940 That's correct
@@securityguy thank you sir. I sure as heck would not have done that.
Lol yep, 1 tooth off on rear cam, just like you said. Too bad I had already taken off the belt before seeing this
I've watched a few videos on how to do the the timing belt on my 2011 Odyssey. Some are wayyy to long, rambling on nonsense, and others are not enough info. I know how to do a timing belt, I just like to watch and see if there's any suggestions or suprises that will pop up.
This hands down is the most informative video I've seen so far. Very clear and to the point. Very well done.
Totally agree
Great video and thank you for making it. I just finished replacing my timing belt using the Aisin kit, and the most important thing (echoing many comments here) is to mark the OLD belt at all 3 cog locations (with white marking pen), and then mark it exactly on the NEW belt. Once you have the old belt off, just lay the new belt on top of the old belt, line up the teeth by sliding your fingers along the belts to keep it taut and in-sync, and mark it correspondingly. This will give you hard evidence and the confidence that you have installed your new belt correctly, which is very much needed in this install.
The main obstacle from my own install was getting the new belt taut. It really needs to be taut (like a guitar string). At first, I installed the belt same way as the video, starting from the crankshaft, up around the front idler bearing, and through the front camshaft. And no matter how hard I tried I would be a tooth off (by verifying the markings) and there would be slack between the front idler bearing and front camshaft. I spent half an hour cursing trying to get it lined up with no success.
My solution was to LOOSEN the front idler bearing (unscrew the installed idler bearing about 1/4 of the way out). It will give about 1/3 inch of play/slack to get your belt and white marks lined up. Rear tensioner bearing not installed. So this time around I started installing the belt at the front camshaft, aligning the white marks lined up, and then under the water pump and then the rear camshaft. Then I guided the belt around the front idler bearing (still loosened) and then down to the crankshaft. All of your white marks should be lined up. If so, get your ratchet and as you start tightening the front idler bearing back up to torque specs... you will see the belt getting guitar string taut all around, except in the rear. At that point install the rear idler, and triple check one last time before pulling the grenade pin on the tensioner. Hope this helps.
Easier way to do it is to put socket on front cam gear bolt and turn it a bit so the lines line up. What everyone fails to say is the cams are under tension from the valve springs. So when you take the old belt off, the cams will move a bit just to mess up the alignment. It is so slight you may not be aware of it. Also the stiffness and folds in the new belt make it difficult to install. Just move the cam a bit. The key is just to make the 3 lines align.
@@lloydballard7051I was wondering if I could do that this way. I've done Toyota belts this way. It's very slight like 1/16th of a turn but allows the belt to get into the teeth.
Use a wrench not an socket driver. Allows more control either direction so you don't break anything.
Just returning back to say thank you! After 2 days of minimal tool availability and a lot of learning, mission accomplished. I appreciate your teaching style and attention to detail.
How much time did you spend? Never done this but have two cars of this engine
My son and I did the timing belt and water pump on his Ridgeline this past weekend using your video the whole time. We were able to perform this job with confidence. Thank you for posting this!
Not sure if someone else pointed this out but the engine block has a coolant drain fitting on the rear side of the engine (13-17 v6 models). I appreciate this video, great work.
Yeah, but it still doesn't drain the water pump itself. Its going to make a mess no matter what, maybe just not as big. Ask me how I know.😄
2007 Odyessy: used drain at back of block, just above & inboard of oil filter. Attached 1/4" clr plastic tube b4 openning - didn't spill a single drop! I had drained radiator with same method. When h2o pump came off, only about 3 drops of coolant came out. Absolutely ZERO mess.
Thank you. Saves a mess.
I drained the block but there was still coolant trapped behind the water pump that spilled out. Probably not as much though.
Best video I’ve seen for any timing belt job I’ve been a Macanic for 45 years this kid did a excellent job 👍
Great video. This showed me that I am better served just taking the car to the shop and have a professional mechanic complete this job. The work is worth paying for considering the steps involved. Great review of the job and requirements. Thanks for the insight.
I agree. Something I'd like to try but with the time involved and the repercussions if I messed it up, I'll take it to the shop.
@@patm95 agreed. I’ll just pay $500 labor 😂😂😂
There are pros and cons to any decision. When I was still in HS changed out a VW trans axle, in the Winter with no lift. This was an excellent introduction which leaves very little to figure out for yourself.
Awesome job! Where are you and could you do mine? I’m in NH
Great video. About the slack when installing the new belt: Volvo B21 engines had their timing belts marked with white lines that matched up to the gear / engine case marks. Volvo basically pre-counted the right number of teeth and marked the belt for you as a failsafe. They put a double line for the crank to get it oriented correctly from the start. You could mark the old belt before taking it off, then mark the new belt accordingly before installing it... Not by length of course, but by counting the belt teeth. It would take a few extra minutes but it would save time on the belt install because you would know for sure if anything moved or if the belt had slack. The belt mark(s) would either match up or not with all the other marks.
You're really good at this. I would not hesitate to take my car to get it done by you and I'm a Mechanic. Great video!
At last, a belt replacement video that is clear and not shaky. Best video so far, the other belt videos from other youtubers are just plain unwatchable.
Excellent video. We are thinking very seriously about buying a used Pilot (awd) because of all of the great reviews and the last ability provided they are serviced and maintained with factory materials & products. The subject matter your video covers is at the very top of that list. Something like this is very important when looking to acquire a vehicle. Thank you.
Your presentation is amazing. 10/10. You are a star in my opinion. You have all that it takes for sheer success. Thank you.
Bro, you should teach auto repair. This is the best breakdown and explanation video I've ever watched.
I appreciate this video detailing all the steps needed to replace the timing belt and water pump. I like how you also replaced the thermostat while you're in there. You have made my decision of spending my time versus having the shop handle it while the car is in for a recall issue. I'll stick to spending my time working on trucks where there is more room and I'll stop griping about the lack of space after seeing this. This is very tight quarters.
I am eternally grateful for recommending using the 19 Milliliter harmonic balancer Honda socket. It was truly uneventful.
18 mins in and I was hooked. Subscribed. Both great production of the video itself and thorough steps to do this. Made me really think about my time vs paying to have timing belt done on my Odyssey.
Awsome detailed video man , thanks! I did my friend timing belt on a 2012 , and all good , I feel with confidence after watch your video couple of time, Thanks again !!!
This is above my comfort level , but great video. Would need to watch it a few more times before I attempt to do this
I’m in the process of doing it my first time. Been working at it for a couple hours. Got the water pump out and decided to take a short break. Reassembly soon.
Best video I've seen on replacing the timing belt on the Honda V6 engine. You went step by step and added relevant comments when necessary.
You did a fantastic job. I am considering buying a full size Honda V6 SUV so this is the perfect instruction video. I can just imagine what the repair shops / dealers are charging for this job.
@@ucesainbolt4572 Glad to be a DIYer at that price!
@@ucesainbolt4572 If in doubt take pictures - something I keep forgetting to do! The engineers seem to get a kick out of designing something different that does the same thing as a simple design. It sure does keep the DIYer on his toes! Good luck with your project. I do the same thing you do - buy the tools (and parts) & do the job yourself.
Just called in last week and Honda wants 2400 for this job...f that .. thanks for the detailed video.
one question though; are there any tips or tricks to ensuring the water pump goes back on securely instead of just waiting 'til you fill it to see if it leaks?
Just as a little warning, don't forget to disconnect your battery prior to doing any work. Or, you may very well find yourself at the Honda Dealer to have the computer rebooted/ cleared of codes which only the dealer can clear. Happened to me working on my Volvo.
Very wise move to manually turn over the engine after belt install and visually verify timing / great video 👍🏻 / I’m knee deep in belt replacement for my 2011 odyssey and your video was helpful / thank you!
Was is worth doing it your self I keep watching videos but I don't feel like doing it
This one is the best video I ever watch on "HOW TO" a Honda Odyssey timing belt and water pump ... Keep going with the good work to help other how to save money as long as we willing to get our hand dirty with grease, oil and other stuff around the engine.. Appreciation is my first thing to say to you.. Thank you very much..
Just did this job yesterday. Took all day but got it all done, and that includes a lot of time to degrease a lot of parts. No more ticking noises, Temps are good. Suggest the Aisin brand which cost me about $173 plus another $9.99 for the tool to remove the main pulley, don't go with the cheaper ones. Approximately $800 job at a shop.
Next up (due at the same time) is the valve timing. The exhaust valves get tight over time and Honda lists valve adjustments in the same service
Where did you get kit for that price @Daniellameans
@@johnnyt1621 rock auto
I got the aisin kit from amazon. It had a Mitsubishi (made in Thailand) belt. I’ll use it, but I kind of expected Japan for the price.
@@followingflinn8311 I too got the same kit and was disappointed with the timing belt, I had also ordered a Mitsuboshi serpentine belt and too was made in Thailand, I'm returning it back and have ordered a Honda belt. So frustrating 😤
This may be the best car repair video I have ever seen
Lol thanks. I have more too. Thanks for watching.
Great job....keep posting Honda videos please. You're great to watch !
I used this video and got the job done with the vehicle on the ground. I left the power steering plumbing in place, but it was pretty annoying to have there. I used hand tools but would buy an air ratchet if I ever did it again. Thank you for all the details and torque specs.
How did you re-torque the Crankshaft bolt on the ground? I'm about to do this myself as well
@@beompark6366 put a long extension on the bolt (24"?). Put a jack stand under the extension close to where the torque wrench will attach. If necessary, put a cheater bar on the torque wrench. Also, I used a breaker bar to pin against the frame to hold the pulley tool in place. I did this same thing to remove the bolt.
Hope this helps!! Good luck!
Nicely done tutorial, every step explained . Its not all that difficult. Take your time,double check each step . Perfect !
Like my Father would say, you can probably do it if you take your time and, think about what you are doing.
Who would dislike this video? Great work!
As a mechanic, of some years (built first motor in the 70's). I appreciate your video. For the same reasons as the rest. Only add I would suggest. Since I am blind in one eye and can't see out of the other. I use a paint marker on the timing marks. Thanks for the great video.
Good step by step video. Clear speak with no extra noise. And now I'm an expert DYIer. Thanks.
Excellent job! Really at a much higher level than other Videos like this. Hats off to you and thanks for doing it. I seldom go to the Library to look up a job in the Manuals anymore. I search for a good Video like this, much easier. I know you are not going to change the Video, but for anyone that reads this, start at the Rear cam and go to the Forward cam, then down to crank while maintaining tension throughout. Reason: Rear cam and water pump have rings on the outer portion that make it hard to get the belt over the cam and water pump. Very difficult to get the belt into the proper notch with the outer ring. I got all the way around starting with the front cam and then figured this out. So I reversed after putting it on the rear cam and tensioned from Rear cam to crank. Worked much better that way (front cam and crank do not have outer ring, so you can slide the belt into the notch. Note also that I temporarily tensioned the belt with a 1/4" to 3/8" tapered hardwood wedge instead of pulling the pin. This was a just in case so I would not have to re-compress and pin the tensioner. Worked slick. Again, great Video, thanks. P.S. I could not get the socket right away and I needed this done now. I had a strip of lead 3/8" thick (lol, I'm 65, I've acquired things). Wrapped it around my impact socket and tightened with hose clamps. Same effect, unsure if it would work, but worked exactly like your big socket.
Nice crystal clear how-to. Well done.
I was looking to do this myself, and this video made me realize this is above my head.
Thx for keeping it to the point and not rambling. My attention span is too short for most videos, good job and thanks
Bro you have the best video explaining this.. you save me 1200 dollar job
Thank you for the tutorial, I thought I would be able to tackle this job but I couldn't get the crank shaft bolt off so I threw in the towel 😕. your instructions were very good BTW, I almost felt like I could do it after watching this like 20 times.. 😂
Good job man. Thx for the help. Bought my wife a nice 2013 odyssey. 112k miles. Assumed that the timing belt had not been changed. I get it all apart….. AFTERMARKET PARTS! S**t
The heavy socket with the impact gun you have is why I used and it came off so easily. Good video with good angles on important parts
Best diy channel on CZcams I watched ur other vid on valve adjustments and it was a pretty easy job, I think im going to try the water pump next with this one
I really appreciate the info in this video - so I am going to pay forward some tips and tricks I learned while doing this on an odyssey.
1 - drain the coolant in the engine block and radiator. There is a drain just above the oil filter at rear of motor, 12mm - put a 1/4” hose on it and drain into reservoir, I got half a gallon out this way. You will still have some spill out of the water pump but not nearly as much.
2 - use a high impact torque with heavy socket like OP does. I broke a wrench trying to pry it off. With high impact socket it spins right off like in the video.
3 - buy new motor mount, you will probably need to replace this anyway, save the headache and have the part, might be wise to replace bolts at same time. In other belts I’ve done, this was recommended. One of the three bolts to the frame was severely rusted on mine, so I replaced it, would have been way easier to have the hardware ahead of time.
4- be very careful with water pump bolts, just hand tighten of you don’t have a light torque wrench. I busted one and was lucky enough to have enough threads to back it out.
5- as others have said, mark the old belt prior to removal and transfer marks to new belt as a safe guard. Mark any tooth that touches the belt on the crank sprocket, and a corresponding mark on the belt. Do the same for the cam sprockets, at TDC. Then count the teeth on the belt as you lay them side by side abs mark the same spots on the new belt. Re-count at least three times. It won’t take long, and you want to be certain your markings are the same. When you put the new belt on, you want those marks to line up with the marks on the sprockets. This is the only way to guarantee you will be in time. Route belt as OP explains keeping tension on the forward side, but make sure your marks line up. I had the rear cam sprocket move slightly back, and without my marks, it’s possible I wouldn’t have been able to notice. This is only way to ensure your in time, and you don’t want to be off by a single tooth.
That’s about it. Expect this job will take you most of a day. Take your time, do it right, get the right tools. It’s a big job and total PITA, but beats paying a grand for someone else to do it for you.
Great tips. Much appreciated.
Thanks for the tips. Our 16 Odyssey just hit 100k, so I'm making a grocery list of stuff I need before the van hits 105k.
I give you a lot of credit for doing this. Great job!
Well done and very professional a parts company should hire you as a install representative!
Great informative step by step instructions. I hope I can do this now because I really need to right about now 😅😅😅 I just got a pilot for 500$ and it needs this done
Well done video one of the best I’ve seen well detailed and great presentation I’m a Mechanic myself Great job 👏🏾
Great job! Very thorough explanation!
Thank you for sharing. Very helpful for the backyard mechanic.
Nice Job!! Clear and concise!! I have a 2017 Ridgeline that will need a TB soon! Thanks for the video!
Thank you for making this video. It made the job a lot easier.
I have a 2010 Honda Odyssey, i really enjoyed your vid. It cost $1700.00 here at the dealership. Thanks
Superb job. The best I've seen. I'm getting up the nerve to replace the timing belt on my old 2000 Honda Odyssey that was given to me some years ago. Its over 211,000 miles, and probably had a timing belt change around 100,000, so its definitely due for replacement asap. Can't afford to take it in to the dealer, so... Thanks!
Same here!
Alright, step one: buy a lift...
I'm a mechanic and this was a very well made video. Good job!
Hello sir. I am 15 and want a accord v6 6mt. But my dad is scared for the timing belt. How much does it cost for a mechanic to do it? Also how much does honda charge for doing it? Thank you
is there any way to do this job without a lift? looks like a lift will be critical only in tightening the crankshaft bolt.
i have milwaukee impact gun, leslie 19mm socket, crankshaft holding tool, torque wrench, 3 ton jack, stands.
@@wilsmith9230 FYI --- A dealer may charge up to $1200 to change a timing belt on your car depending on where you are located and the labor rate, but could be a little less. Independent garages charge less --- i have heard as little as $750, but probably more like $850. It is time consuming --- probably as much as 5 - 6 hours. Also, I suggest buying the entire kit from Honda, not any aftermarket parts. On my 2003 Acura TL-S I have to change my belt every 7 years or 100k miles. I am on my 3rd belt.
@@kensimon4478 Also, if you use any independent garage, make sure they have done this job before on a Honda/Acura and it is an experienced mechanic. It must be done correctly.
@@MM-ln4ym I have seen the work done on 2 odysseys and wanted to do it myself so I bought the major tools to do the work myself. I just don't have a lift. I just have jack stands and a 3ton jack and ramps. I have a Milwaukee impact, Leslie 19mm, 3/8 long neck and getting a 3/8 impact socket set.
thank you man, straight to the point great descriptions, keep up the good work
One of the best videos out there, thank you
Great vid very informative, that heavy socket is magic, my old school brushed milwaukee zipped off the crank pully no problem
Nice video, one of the most detailed I have seen so far, I just did my wife 2010 Honda odyssey over the weekend. Something that I will really add to the work you did was draining of the coolant system.
I will agree no point in draining the whole system from the radiator because it will not clear the coolant in the engine block, and it will spill just as much as it did in your video.
The EASY way to get it done without draining the whole system; is by the drain plug/bolt in the engine block, it is locate 3 or 4 inches behind the hydraulic timing belt puller in the engine block…it is a cooper/aluminum bolt (the cooper is screw into the aluminum bolt).
Spray some penetrating lubricant between the union of the two bolts, then hold the aluminum nut (17 mm) and unbolt just a little not all the way the cooper bolt (13 mm) you can put a 3/8” hose in the nipple (just like you drain the brake calipers) and catch the coolant into a container or bucket. You still will have some coolant when removing the water pump, but it is minimum.
Not spill or mess at all…
Cheers
AGAIN, NICE JOB….
Getting ready to do my kids oddessy.
I was going to look for a block drain plug, glad to see there's a good chance there will be one. Was there any concerns that you would not be able to seal it back up? I've heard The Car Wizard say never use the radiator petcock but that's pretty obvious suggestion when you see they are often made of plastic.
I've never done a timing belt replacement and would never ever want to. However, if I have a lift I would definitely do it thanks to your video. I wish Honda just use chain instead.
Thanks for showing where to line the timing marks on the crank pulley and mark on the block. It was not obvious on other videos.
Just be careful with the parallax. Make sure you’re looking right down the line at the marks. Especially on the rear cam. Sometimes I’ll take a ruler or piece of paper to make sure I’m looking straight on.
Very helpful video. I wanted to share what I did to ensure the belt was on properly with no slack. Before I removed the old belt, I used a white marking pen to mark a belt tooth and the corresponding notch on the cog at all three cog locations (both cams and the crank). I used the old timing belt after removal to mark the new timing belt at the exact three locations (same number of teeth between marks). The old and new timing belt teeth should be spaced exactly the same so I made sure the marks on the new belt perfectly match the marks on the old belt. I also found it very helpful to very slightly rotate the cam shaft clockwise a few degrees to get the belt on the exact location marked and the teeth properly seated in the cog. I then rotated the cam back (counter clockwise) a few degrees to make it taut. Make sure the marks on the cam and two crank cogs are properly aligned. This worked great for me and gave me the confidence to start the engine knowing the belt was on correctly. I notice that Mark Johnson in his comments below refers to the same method of marking the old and new belt.
EXACTLY! THIS IS A MUST DO!!! The new belt is so darn tight I would have probably got it on a tooth off if I hadn't been shooting to match the position tooth-for-tooth. Just "taking out the slack" will NOT suffice.
I learned a lot watching, I lack practice, I would have to buy many tools. A hug, very nice video
Thanks for making such a great video on this, really helped me get a feel for the job.
A bunch of the maintenance intervals on my Pilot just lined up and even the lowest estimate I got is still big money. I've been doing my own oil changes for about two years now so I did some research and I've done everything except the belt/pump but unfortunately I think this is a little above my skill level. If I had a backup car I'd probably try it myself but if I screwed this up it could turn into a serious mess.
Good video. Thanks for the reminder about not turning the cams because its an interference engine.
Great video - wish I had a garage and lift to tackle this myself.
I did mine on a jack stand. It sucks but not impossible.
Excellent how to video. Thank you for posting
Nice video. Some engines have a coolant drain plug on the engine block but these drain plugs aren't always easy to get to.
Thank u so much broski😎👍🏼 excellent well illustrated video.much appreciated
Daaamn..this guy is rocketship level good!
Great video. Hope you can show how to replace cam and crank seals and oil pump later. That's a complete video.
Good job and explanation! That timing belt was just about to BREAK soon.
Fantastic video. Detailed! Thanks!
Good one, To be honest i am not ready for this level of DIY 😊👍
I must have watched your video like 30x I have a 2004 honda pilot and a 2007 honda odyssey did both in a 2 week period. Odyssey timing belt busted while driving. Just shut off itself. Put on the new belt and it worked I was 1 of the lucky 1's
Awesome video, this was a huge help!!!!!!!!! Thank you!
Thank you so much, very professional video!
Dude your honda timing belt video was awesome
Just hit the 👍 and Subscribed... Excellent instructional video, you’re a natural instructor 👏.
I own a 2017 Ridgeline and are 80K away from this process. You made it seem easy even though in reality I’m sure it is not.
Hope to see more 2nd Gen Ridgeline/Pilot work.
Thanks for sharing 👍
I did my first timing belt job on a 2013 odyssey yesterday(I’ve built jeep 4.0s with timing chains)! Thank you for the video. I did have to buy the special thick crank socket, crank hold-tool, and use my brother’s new ryobi(4’ breaker did nada). Continental put the wrong size belt in the kit, so had to buy a dayco locally.
Which Ryobi product did you use? would 4-mode brushless impact driver be ok? or you actually got an impact Wrench?
Awesome video, easy to follow the steps.
If I had a lift I would go ahead and perform this. BTW, great DIY video!
Everything they said in the comments right back at you. And your watchers also had some great tips. Thank you for this award winning video.
Great Video / Audio Quality and great job clear description thats a rare find on you tube !! Thanks for the upload in a month or so i have to do an odyssey looks like fun but you give me hope its do able thanks brother !!
Excellent video, thanks for sharing!
Great job! video was a lot of help getting the job done!
Excellent video, you're one of the best
Excellent work and great video
Mannnn…. The Best Video! Well done sir 👍👍
my OEM Honda coolant is green to, I got personally from Honda dealer , so I don’t know why are you talking
about wrong coolant.
Thank you for great video, now I’ll do it by my self!
Outstanding video thank you for uploading
can't wait to do this on my honda van. Thank you for the video.
You did a great job. Impressive.
This is going to help so much!
Great tutorial video. Thank you so much.
Super helpful video man thank you much appreciated
Great video! Thank you!!!
I tightened the crank bolt w/ heavy socket, 1/2" impact on max with 100psi in the hose. Got the 60deg w/ 2 10sec blasts. Marked the bolt head and damper with paint so i could judge the bolt rotation. I just could not get 60deg on my back w/ the breaker bar & cheater. Guess i need to work out more. But the impact/socket is sooo easy!
good for my future replacement of pilot belt timing thank you geek
Excellent information Sir 👍.
Just do it. Nothing to it.
Very thorough video.
Great video! Yes, that crank bolt is a real pain. On my 91 Accord had to buy an Ingersoll Rand 2141 3/4 impact to get it off (did it with a regular impact socket). Wish I knew about the specialty socket at the time, my 1/2 impact probably would've gotten it.