How do you keep the sheep in the electric netting? It was highly used and recommended. We got 3 lambs. The spooked and bolted through it in 5 minutes despite the wires being hot. We are so discouraged with this first dip into sheep/ livestock. We need all the advice. Once we catch the lambs again we are worried to try putting them back in the netting.
We are sorry to hear you had a bad experience on your first go! What size energizer do you have running your net? Is it posi-neg? If not, how much grounding do you have?
@@KencoveFarmFence my husband has all those answers. I know it was 11k voltage. The lambs had never been electric fence/ net trained. This is our first time with any kind of livestock. We did get them all back Monday. There is a lot we did not know that we are learning on the fly.
@@TwoBirchHomestead We would be happy to help! Shoot us an email to marketing@kencove.com and we can help trouble shoot for you! Or give us a call 800-KENCOVE
What do you do when you live in such a poor soil area that you cannot get the portable fence posts to stick in the ground? We live in rock country. Trying to fix this issue but need a little help so we can safely run the animals over it to develop the necessary fertility to do so! Tips?
Hi Jennie, In cases where rocks are present and there is not enough topsoil to hold step-in posts, I have seen people use masonry bits to drill post pilot holes into the ground. I know of other folks who made weighted, mobile posts by cementing a pot material inside coffee cans or 5gal buckets. This allowed them to have a secure fence and still move it as they built up the soil. Creativity is really the only limiting factor for fencing solutions. I always recommend using what you have around. Please let us know if you have any further questions or if you would like to continue brainstorming solutions for your context!
Hello - The bottom strand of the net is non-conductive. While there is some forage growth in this field, it is not heavy and really pulling down on the netting. However, where forage growth is heavier and thick, you could weed-wack or mow the path where the net will lay. Having a proper sized energizer is also important for combating forage growth.
Is it feasible to use the netting as a perimeter fence until we have the opportunity to get a woven wire fence built? Could we use step in stakes, braided electric and hook it to the netting for the power source to make the separate paddocks within the perimeter? Thanks!
Great questions! Yes, you can use netting as your perimeter in the meantime and divide into paddocks with twine and step-in posts or additional nets. Just make sure your energizer has enough capacity to add paddock divisions. Electric netting requires a minimum of .25 output joules per net, and we we recommend 1 output joule per mile of fence otherwise. So, be sure to calculate your fence demand by combining your nets and electric twine in order to properly size an energizer.
There is currently no true exterior/perimeter fence on the property, but I have the materials and design for installing a high tensile perimeter! This will open up more grazing options for future use.
This is a common question - There is no "gate". You simply turn off the power supply and can either step over the fence, or move your end post. If you want to make a small opening to use as the access point, purchase an additional step-in post and place it a short distance from your end post. That will act as a pivot point when you remove the end post to use as the entrance
Some questions I have are these: In hight wind situations, do the fences lay over? I know that animals have a tendency to drift with the wind when weather is driving them. If the fence is layed over on one of the long stretches of fence, couldn't the animals move across the intended barrier? In tall wet forage situations, how do you keep the fence from shorting out with so much in contact with the moist growth near the ground? I am curious about the composition of the flexible posts that are obviously new in your video. Are these fiberglass posts? If they are, how do you keep those fiberglass fibers from deteriorating in the sunlight and becoming a concern to handle with bare hands in the future. If the posts are not fiberglass, but some other material, is that material capable of withstanding the effects of light as a degrading agent? Things naturally get broken on a farm. In the case of a damaged post, how may a broken post be replaced? These examples that you have provided are small areas where foot travel installation and maintenance is easy to manage. 8 head of sheep do not require large areas to graze on. So talk to me about how this type of fencing might be affordable and acceptable as permanent perimiter fencing for 200 sheep or 100 bovine. What would be the cost of the fencing for a one mile straight run? I don't know if you want all of my comments and the answers to them to go back up here to your page, so I will include my private email address for you to use if you prefer. brushdcp3@gmail.com
Hi Ronald! Wind: If your soil conditions are decent, you will not experience much issue with wind. You’ll be able to tell when installing if a placed foot is sturdy and secure or if you need to move it to find a better hold in the soil. In any case of a fence falling or a tree branch knocking it down, there is always potential for animals getting out. However, I’ve also seen animals that are well-trained to electric fencing not even attempting to cross a downed wire, let alone a wide net. Tall & wet forage: Having a low impedance energizer that is capable of handling vegetation load is the first remedy to this situation (we recommend .25 output joule per net minimum). Sometimes mowing or weed trimming the intended fence line before setting up nets may be necessary to easily install the netting and minimize vegetation load, and make life easier in general. So far, I have not had an issue with vegetation load on this netting system. Posts: These posts are solid SunGuard fiberglass posts. We have carried SunGuard posts for a while, they are tried and true. The nets in this video are not new and have been in use for several seasons with no signs of failure or deterioration. SunGuard posts are coated for UV protection and to prevent splintering. They will endure a lifetime of use on your farm/ranch. We also sell replacement posts and feet for each style of netting for easy repairs, should you need them. Scale of use: These nets are also used to graze large numbers of sheep and goats (200 head and above) not just a few head here and there. For a permanent perimeter, I would consider using wire fencing over netting. Electric netting is intended to be portable and temporary for mobile and flexible grazing systems but is probably not the most economical for a permanent perimeter. Plus, it comes in 164ft lengths as a full size, rather than 330ft for woven wire or 4,000ft on a coil of high tensile. I would use netting time and time again for mobile grazing, but would opt for high tensile or woven wire for a permanent perimeter. Let us know if you have any more questions!
Quality content. I purchased 14 acres this year, half pasture. Will be needing quite a bit of electric netting.
he does a great job speaking to us
Looks good Eli 👍
How do you keep the sheep in the electric netting? It was highly used and recommended. We got 3 lambs. The spooked and bolted through it in 5 minutes despite the wires being hot. We are so discouraged with this first dip into sheep/ livestock. We need all the advice. Once we catch the lambs again we are worried to try putting them back in the netting.
We are sorry to hear you had a bad experience on your first go! What size energizer do you have running your net? Is it posi-neg? If not, how much grounding do you have?
@@KencoveFarmFence my husband has all those answers. I know it was 11k voltage. The lambs had never been electric fence/ net trained. This is our first time with any kind of livestock. We did get them all back Monday. There is a lot we did not know that we are learning on the fly.
@@TwoBirchHomestead We would be happy to help! Shoot us an email to marketing@kencove.com and we can help trouble shoot for you! Or give us a call 800-KENCOVE
What do you do when you live in such a poor soil area that you cannot get the portable fence posts to stick in the ground? We live in rock country. Trying to fix this issue but need a little help so we can safely run the animals over it to develop the necessary fertility to do so! Tips?
Hi Jennie,
In cases where rocks are present and there is not enough topsoil to hold step-in posts, I have seen people use masonry bits to drill post pilot holes into the ground. I know of other folks who made weighted, mobile posts by cementing a pot material inside coffee cans or 5gal buckets. This allowed them to have a secure fence and still move it as they built up the soil. Creativity is really the only limiting factor for fencing solutions. I always recommend using what you have around. Please let us know if you have any further questions or if you would like to continue brainstorming solutions for your context!
Tall grass and weeds like in the video, wouldn’t they short the fence out?
Hello - The bottom strand of the net is non-conductive. While there is some forage growth in this field, it is not heavy and really pulling down on the netting. However, where forage growth is heavier and thick, you could weed-wack or mow the path where the net will lay. Having a proper sized energizer is also important for combating forage growth.
Is it feasible to use the netting as a perimeter fence until we have the opportunity to get a woven wire fence built?
Could we use step in stakes, braided electric and hook it to the netting for the power source to make the separate paddocks within the perimeter?
Thanks!
Great questions! Yes, you can use netting as your perimeter in the meantime and divide into paddocks with twine and step-in posts or additional nets. Just make sure your energizer has enough capacity to add paddock divisions. Electric netting requires a minimum of .25 output joules per net, and we we recommend 1 output joule per mile of fence otherwise. So, be sure to calculate your fence demand by combining your nets and electric twine in order to properly size an energizer.
@@KencoveFarmFence Thanks so much for the quick reply!
New sub here!
@@garypiatt4666 Thanks for watching! Hope we are able to help you!
Have you put in any high tensile electric on your property? What is your border fence made of?
There is currently no true exterior/perimeter fence on the property, but I have the materials and design for installing a high tensile perimeter! This will open up more grazing options for future use.
What do you do for a gate to go in and out?
This is a common question - There is no "gate". You simply turn off the power supply and can either step over the fence, or move your end post. If you want to make a small opening to use as the access point, purchase an additional step-in post and place it a short distance from your end post. That will act as a pivot point when you remove the end post to use as the entrance
Some questions I have are these:
In hight wind situations, do the fences lay over? I know that animals have a tendency to drift with the wind when weather is driving them. If the fence is layed over on one of the long stretches of fence, couldn't the animals move across the intended barrier?
In tall wet forage situations, how do you keep the fence from shorting out with so much in contact with the moist growth near the ground?
I am curious about the composition of the flexible posts that are obviously new in your video. Are these fiberglass posts? If they are, how do you keep those fiberglass fibers from deteriorating in the sunlight and becoming a concern to handle with bare hands in the future. If the posts are not fiberglass, but some other material, is that material capable of withstanding the effects of light as a degrading agent?
Things naturally get broken on a farm. In the case of a damaged post, how may a broken post be replaced?
These examples that you have provided are small areas where foot travel installation and maintenance is easy to manage. 8 head of sheep do not require large areas to graze on. So talk to me about how this type of fencing might be affordable and acceptable as permanent perimiter fencing for 200 sheep or 100 bovine. What would be the cost of the fencing for a one mile straight run?
I don't know if you want all of my comments and the answers to them to go back up here to your page, so I will include my private email address for you to use if you prefer. brushdcp3@gmail.com
Hi Ronald!
Wind: If your soil conditions are decent, you will not experience much issue with wind. You’ll be able to tell when installing if a placed foot is sturdy and secure or if you need to move it to find a better hold in the soil. In any case of a fence falling or a tree branch knocking it down, there is always potential for animals getting out. However, I’ve also seen animals that are well-trained to electric fencing not even attempting to cross a downed wire, let alone a wide net.
Tall & wet forage: Having a low impedance energizer that is capable of handling vegetation load is the first remedy to this situation (we recommend .25 output joule per net minimum). Sometimes mowing or weed trimming the intended fence line before setting up nets may be necessary to easily install the netting and minimize vegetation load, and make life easier in general. So far, I have not had an issue with vegetation load on this netting system.
Posts: These posts are solid SunGuard fiberglass posts. We have carried SunGuard posts for a while, they are tried and true. The nets in this video are not new and have been in use for several seasons with no signs of failure or deterioration. SunGuard posts are coated for UV protection and to prevent splintering. They will endure a lifetime of use on your farm/ranch. We also sell replacement posts and feet for each style of netting for easy repairs, should you need them.
Scale of use: These nets are also used to graze large numbers of sheep and goats (200 head and above) not just a few head here and there. For a permanent perimeter, I would consider using wire fencing over netting. Electric netting is intended to be portable and temporary for mobile and flexible grazing systems but is probably not the most economical for a permanent perimeter. Plus, it comes in 164ft lengths as a full size, rather than 330ft for woven wire or 4,000ft on a coil of high tensile. I would use netting time and time again for mobile grazing, but would opt for high tensile or woven wire for a permanent perimeter.
Let us know if you have any more questions!