The perfect VALVE LAPPING TOOL!
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- čas přidán 13. 09. 2024
- This is my take on the lapping tool problem.
Jafro lapping video link - • Cylinder Head 105 - Va... - a must see vid
The handle part - ER11 collet arbor
The collets - ER11 sizes 4,5,6,7 and 8mm
Purchased from eBay
![Save Money And Lap Your Own Valves! [Measured Results]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TPCrR-R7cTY/mqdefault.jpg)
![Save Money And Lap Your Own Valves! [Measured Results]](/img/tr.png)
I was just about to compliment your circle ability and spatial awareness when... 4:42. One take... sweet! As long as you're still hand-lapping with that thing from the spring side of the valve, ok then I'm totally cool with it and THAT THING IT'S AWESOME!
I'm still dead-set against mechanical means of lapping with power tools. 9/10 people using drills to lap their valves absolutely destroy their valve guides, and usually wreck their seats, too. Stainless steel valve spinning against bronze manganese guide in one spot = big no no even if the chuck doesn't slip. If you're not dead-nuts centered, or unable to pull the valve closed without any lateral forces of any kind on the stem... (like the weight of a drill) then the spinning valve stem turns a cutting tool and oblongs your guide hole. Every revolution just cuts it deeper. Valves and guides are supposed to slide in-n-out against each other and they have a spring-centered force that holds one far end. Their clearances measure in the ten thousandths spec (hundredths of a mm). The valves are not supposed to spin around in the guides while in the closed position. The valve guide is not a bearing. However, if you're going 0 rpm back and forth by hand in a random pattern generating little friction and can feel what you're doing... then have at it! You're not going to hurt it.
Lapping compound is supposed to be worked back and forth in 2 directions and it doesn't take much. The compound breaks down when you switch directions and it gets finer. You just do it long enough to leave the best mark you can on both parts. Then look to see if it's uniform, even and in the right spot on both parts. If not, go get a valve job done because lapping won't fix it. On pre-war cars and a lot of the vintage motorcycle equipment it used to be a common restoration process, but on modern engines with modern materials and multi-angle valve jobs, lapping should just be a test. I don't think there's ever a reason to get power tools involved with lapping compound. It should be done by hand and as little as necessary to achieve your results. Sorry for grandstanding if it seems like I'm doing that. That's just something I wish I had clarified better in my own video, but I didn't have a bad valve to demonstrate it.
I appreciate the shoutout, and the creativity different people use to overcome their mechanical problems!
Jafro
I have a Jafro comment on one of my videos! lol and he complimented me on my drawing! Everybody take note.
Enough of the gloating. I'll be doing the actual lapping video on the Kawasaki soon and I'll make will mension some of the points you have made.
And Jafro, grandstand as much as you want dude lol Been a sub of yours for at least 4 years if not longer. Thanks for the comment - matt
What up jafro!
jafro...u changed my life as a motorhead, thank u. but i thought id let you know what i came up with for valve lapping. U may use the suction cup still but ad a dab of hot glue from a hot glue gun which is entirely non-destructive and non abrasive to valve and the valve lapping tool will work without ever coming off the valve until you pry it off with a finger nail or some radial or axial torque and the guy comes right off. I guess you could say i got my inspiration from PDR (paintless dent removal). I hope that makes sense. It makes the job more precise and enjoyable :)
turns the valve into a cutting tool.... sure on some level and the cutting rate could be measured by nasa. i think that might be a bit dramatic. just sayin.
you know man i get alot like that when i get passionate and worked up. kind of reminds yourself you have a pulse. being passionate about stuff is what makes life worth living.
if your ever by las vegas stop by the shop.
I'm still at college and I watched one of the tutors doing it with a drill, always thought it didn't look right. He also used to go through a PowerPoint presentation that he bought online and then give out wordsearches as the mornings theory work, I swear that was it! And permanently had the other tutors doing work on his car for him. I'm getting an apprenticeship asap. During the first lockdown he was getting full wages to set us self marking 5 question online Quizzes a couple of times a week. Rant over
A bit of a trick I picked up many moons, put a light spring down over the valve stem that will sit against the flare of the underside of the valve crown and the valve guide, just enough pressure to let you bounce the V/V lightly against the seat, grind the V/V by hand allowing the spring to work lifting the V/V and clean and change the paste as req'd.
Normally, whenever I watch a video that takes more than 30 seconds to get to the point (i.e. 95% of the ones on youtube), my ADD rage causes me to give up on it completely. But you were entertaining enough to pull it off. kudos. :)
The worst are the videos that spend the first half explaining what the video is going to contain, then do the whole like/subscribe routine, then try to sell you something, they spend the remaining half actually showing you what you watched for, then completely breeze over a crucial step, like saying something such as "Then after that you just matriculize the crasus joint and I'll show you the next thing" midway through, so you need to watch another video to get information of what they hell they just mentioned.
a bit of fuel line shoved onto the stem and spun by hand always works great for me.
if I feel a bit of power drill is called for I chuck the other end of the fuel line up. it's real easy to push the valve away from its seat to let a bit of compound into the gap.
when shopping ebay for er11 (I use er8 all the time) one should be able to get a straight shank holder for a wee bit cheaper than a taper (Morse or otherwise).
"... the stupid plunging, vacuum, blow-jobby, sex toy, stick thing...." Aaaaaah F#ck! I know your pain man. You just made my day. Thanks!
I love the way you put it and you're right, the last one is probably the worst because of that suction cap not staying in fplace LoL.
The reasons for using the antiquated suction cup tool is (1)it is rubber,so you aren't as likely to apply torsional preload,like a hand drill invites,which is bad for the guides.(2)As you pointed out, slow speed is important. you probably won't go too fast with the wood one.(3)you lose some of your sensitivity to feel with a drill, (But I have used one on a badly pitted seat ,using a junk, expendable valve).(4)if the cup won't stay on,even with oil on it , hot glue,krazy glue or weatherstrip glue a.k.a."gorilla snot glue"can be buffed off when done.
I've been lucky enough that on the engines I've done this to, we swapped to flat-faced valves. 41-58mm pushrod engines. One time, someone brought me a cylinder head that had the keepers installed improperly. I went to take off the retainer with the spring compressor, applied some pressure, and *ping* it seated deeper. Dropped valve waiting to happen.
nice tool you have, at the moment i just use a rubber tube with nice fit to the valve stem, and i lap away
Truth. Every. Word. Thank you!
I like that collet tool, can think of other uses for it in my workshop too, bet they're not 14 quid now though, and I agree them rubber sucker things, they are a pain.
I've seen valves on some engines, that had a slot in the head, so you could use a screwdriver, but that was old vintage BSA stuff, I guess the manufacturer of the valves cared enough to think about maintenance. It's alright, new subber, I'm just wading though your old vids haha....ps not enough Del slagging off for me!, cheers, Dave
You can use small fuel line to put on the valve stem and put on a bit for the drill and use the drill that way too
The easiest explination why 3 jaw chucks are bad for valve lapping is that it's not designed for machine work. It will not keep the bit perfectly centered. If you want to do machining you need a mill type head that was made for precision work.
Here are four, much cheaper ways to solve the problem, without a lot of swear words being used. Cut a strip of brass shim stock long enough to wrap around the valve stem a couple of times and then clamp your drill chuck onto that. Or, go to a place that sells brass tubing, like a hobby shop or industrial metal supplier, and get some tubing of the approximate size and slit it and slide it over the stem, using two layers if needed if there's a big gap, and thirdly, get some copper water tubing and cut it lengthwise with a saw of some type, and slide it over the valve stem. All of those three methods will keep your drill chuck jaws from denting the valve stems. It's best to use a variable speed drill though so you don't spin the valves too fast.
If your valve lash is adjusted with shims and buckets, you can grab the end of the stem down in the bucket well with some rubber or plastic hose and make it grip with a small hose clamp that you tighten with an ignition wrench. We're NOT talking about needing tons (or tonnes) of pressure needing to be exerted here. Just a light pressure and some patience will get the job done.
Randy
Swear words?
I accidently deleted your comment on my video, so I figured I'd rebuttal here. You have a good argument against using a drill to lap valves. However if done correctly, it works great.
Yes, you do have to keep the speed down. My drill is going about 200 RPM, not 1000+.
The compound DOES get squished out of the mating surfaces as you work, but the repeated pushing motion re-introduces the compound where it belongs.
You are absolutely correct on needing the sound and feel of the lapping to indicate if its being done correctly. The drill sounds noisier than it really is in my video. In really life you can hear and feel the valve clearly as the compound does its work.
As for the 3 jaw chuck argument, you should NEVER clamp the drill directly to the valve. Good way to cause permanent damage to the surface of the valve stem, and introduce lateral torque to the valve, causing a lot of stress on the guide. I use a piece of silicone tubing to attach the valve to the drill, so there is no lateral torque. This also smooths and dampens the forces when pulling on the valve.
Anyway, great video! Give the drill method another chance. Use a piece of silicone hose to attach a quieter drill at a slower speed. Ensure you are repeatedly opening and closing the valve gently as you work to keep the compound in the seat. I think you'll find it works fantastic!
Graphite powder in the valve guide might prevent any metal to metal contact there while lapping.
JJ Dasher I do the same thing exactly an never had a issue
JJ Dasher o
I just did my RB Valves and the tool had no problem sticking... the shape will cause some issues so build dependent?
The valve stem got caught in the collet Matt because the taper inside the locking nut that closes it tight is very shallow. Same thing happens on woodworking router collets.
The solution is to loosen the locking nut half a turn or more, then tap the centre of the valve head very gently with a lump of nylon or length of dowel. The valve will crack loose in the collet. Loosen the nut some more and remove it from the valve.
You're not apparently a trained engineer, but you've got very good instincts. I like and respect the stuff you do. And you're right, This IS the solution.
And yes, the fucking wankers using drills are indeed ruining valves, seats and guides. The point you missed though is that the solid connection between the drill chuck and the valve stem, not only causes indentation damage to the stem, it also exerts unequal lateral forces on the stem as it spins. It's impossible to keep everything perfectly aligned. It's a lazy bastard's solution, and I've had many arguments with the cunts that do it.
There is a way to use a drill though. If you put a piece of bar in a drill chuck, stretch a piece of plastic fuel pipe over the end (like Delboy's mother should have), then slip the other end over the valve (has to be a very tight fit), and run the drill at very low revs (100-150 rpm max), preferably in both directions, you can get decent results fairly quickly.
Having said ALL that, the best results will always be obtained by working the valve head from the valve head side. This does of course require a spotless valve head, a brand new and undamaged sucker (store it in a plastic bag away from any sharp edges of any kind) that fits, and has been dampened by something moist. Naturally I have my favourite source, but I'm not sharing that here ;))
pls make actual video on lapping process my friend👍 with this technique
i have your hands!!!!!! thank god* look at Matts hands... quality fingers right there...tough precise angle
thoughts on the pneumatic lapping tools? I use one at work and there are a decent selection of sizes of suction cups, if grinding paste gets between the cup and the valve a quick wipe with a cloth on the cup and valve usually does the trick. I like how the back and forth motion creates a grey noise which I get used to and can therefore tell apart from the sound of the valve/paste/seat. considering howmuch it could speed up the job, the annoyance of the cup slipping is reduced by the valve being almost done anyway.
Omg! Yes, tightening a drill chuck on the end of a valve stem is an incredibly bad idea. Scratches or marring on the stem WILL eat the guide. Or damage where the keepers grab the stem is bad as such scratching or marring create stress risers. Possibly leading to a dropped valve and catastrophic engine failure. Ive seen the drill thing before and I think the pic was what I remember. After sliding the valve back into the head, you take a short piece of hose(~6”) that fits tightly on the stem. You can then safely snug the chuck on the opposite end of said hose, or like your collet use it as a handle. It should spin very easily. If not something is wrong. One last bit, and I cant stress this enough to be sure each valve goes back into the port it came from as the stem and guide are worn into each other
Thanks for the video. Collects is a good idea but FYI the shank of a twist drill isn't normally hardened.
Are you sure about that???
www.jacobschuck.com/keyed-chucks/jacobs-6230-3pd-3-plain-bearing-heavy-duty-5-8-chuck.html
From the Jacobs website linked above -
"Through-Hardened Sleeve Teeth, Plus Hardened Nose and Keyholes Provide Outstanding Wear Resistance."
Even newer Dewalt chucks have carbide (hard) inserts for the chuck teeth -
www.dewalt.co.uk/featured-ranges/technologies-innovations/XR-technology.html
Rohm chucks also have hardened jaws, or as the Germans like to say 'prisms'
eshop.roehm.biz/media/attachment/file/d/c/dc0001498.pdf
So I'd say chucks usually have hardened jaws FYI. If they weren't they wouldn't last 5 minutes. Shack of drill bits are not hardened because the drill bit is the sacrificial parts vs a drill chuck.
You should rename this as the perfect OHV lapping tool, where you can lap the valve from the shaft/stem as it sticks out of the cylinder head. You can't use this on a flat head engine where the valves are in the combustion chamber, because you can only lap those valves from the top of the valve head.
Granted, but side valves are easier to do
Nice! But although the drill chuck slips on the drill bit, wouldn't there be no slippage with the valve because you have far less pressure against the valve than with a drill bit trying to drill through steel? But the problem I see with using a drill, is possible wobble, causing excessive friction on the stem and the guide.
Very true, one of the many issues is this. - When you grab a drill in a chuck you can 'bite' down on the drill bit as hard as you like, its the chisel point that does the work, not the shaft. Its the small contact area of a drill chuck that can mark the stem. Collets increase this surface area massively. And as Jafromobile commented below and as you stated it the wobble that can fuck up your day.
In a nut shell, drill chucks are great for drills, shite for valve guides. - matt
Ditto
I've seen 2 other solutions. One was a suction cup on a drill fitting, the other was sticking a piece of vacuum hose over the valve stem and sticking a drill bit into the other end of the vac hose.
To quote Jafromobile below -
"I'm still dead-set against mechanical means of lapping with power tools.
9/10 people using drills to lap their valves absolutely destroy their
valve guides, and usually wreck their seats, too. Stainless steel valve
spinning against bronze manganese guide in one spot = big no no even if
the chuck doesn't slip. If you're not dead-nuts centered, or unable to
pull the valve closed without any lateral forces of any kind on the
stem... (like the weight of a drill) then the spinning valve stem turns a
cutting tool and oblongs your guide hole. Every revolution just cuts
it deeper. Valves and guides are supposed to slide in-n-out against
each other and they have a spring-centered force that holds one far end.
Their clearances measure in the ten thousandths spec (hundredths of a
mm). The valves are not supposed to spin around in the guides while in
the closed position. The valve guide is not a bearing. However, if
you're going 0 rpm back and forth by hand in a random pattern generating
little friction and can feel what you're doing... then have at it!
You're not going to hurt it."
I've only used a drill once and then I didn't let the speed get very high and I went back and forth. If you stick a piece of vac hose on the valve stem you could operate that by hand, you don't have to use a drill.
Some valves (ex) have mechanical rotators at the keeper to insure even heat distribution and even wear,Mostly on pre-unleaded small engines.(That ain't just a really thick washer!)
Rule no. 21: Never take mechanical advice from a guy wearing a monster logo on his clothes.
Cool idea, but that requires access from the below, for instance my mystery B&S style engine you simply cannot access to valve stems from below or the side. How ever its simple, just get hot glue stick, clean the valve head properly and remove any grease. Heat the end of the glue stick and stick it on the valve, straight as possible and middle as possible. When it stiffens you have flexible connection to valve and can start lapping. Removing works by cutting what you can off, then heat rest up and wipe it with a rag. Any final residue you can heat and remove with steelwire brush if need to be, what remains will burn off in first engine start.
For DIY lapping compound, i just tried using sandblasting medium, but that is bit too rough, least the grade i had on the shop, but it does seem to lap a little, after you get particles to break into smaller, Other option might be fine grinding dust from shot floor mixed with grease, just get largest particles off. Proper compound is just silica and grease far as i understand.
Though this works for jerry rigging lawnmower, but on cars you might use proper stuff, though lapping tool still works fine.
Thank you...
Show a video with you using it how you suggest, I'm studying how to do this type of work with the safest method an tools. I completely absorb all the knowledge I can, I've not seen this tool before but want to see in action especially with a "T handle" . I hope you receive this an reply back, I've watch jafro an many other videos an was excited from all of them. I really want to learn so please provide what I've requested so I can see an learn what an how to do sir. I see how you pointed with good reason the faults in the other equipment an methods so I hope to learn more thanks an God bless.
No worries dude - ill do doing the XJ600 head teardown soon and one of the exhaust valves has receeded into the head so I'll add valve lapping to the list - cheers dude - matt
Thanks man I really appreciate that
Wot a un- nesscary job for such a simple process ,
Just get the sucker stick and a drill.
Ever used it on motorcycle valve?
@@dirtygarageguy Yes, and it works fine if you have the right tool. Quit whinging and cogitating and self glorifying that you're sooo much smarter than everyone else who gets the tool to work just fine.
i want one. i use a fuel line or a hose to the stem and roll in my hands.. it works. but thats better what you have
Could you post the link to where the arbor and collets can be purchased? Thanks
eBay - just type in MT2 ER11 collet. - a link will be out of date in a couple of weeks, so doing a search is the better option.
Wow, awesome advice. Thanks!
Are you slowly going through all my videos? thanks for the comment - matt
The Workshop : Matt, yes I find your CZcams channel intriguing. Yup, I've been slowly making my way through 😂. My background is nuclear engineering. I did that for the US Navy for 6 years concentrating is mechanical engineering and radiological controls and primary and secondary corrosion analysis. Today I mostly crunch statistics. I have owned and ridden bikes in the past, but having babies has put my riding days on pause for now until my youngest starts school. I'm dying to start riding again. The new BMW bikes make my mouth water. Keep up the great work. Howdy from Austin Texas. We have MotoGP and formula 1 here at the Circuit of the Americas. My sons can't wait to see race in April. 👋🏻🤠👍🏻
Why bother with the arbor? Grab a chunk of rubber oil line (about 5" or so) press it onto the valve stem with or with out a hose clamp and go at it with your yams! The rubber is flexible (lots of feel), gobs of grip and the rubber has great no-way-it-can-mark-a-thing gripping surface. Available everywhere as oil line, rubber pressure water line, coolant line or whatever from your local hardware! Better yet, you can layer rubber hoses (like stuff for cooling systems) to get bigger diameters to grip a smaller rubber line that grips the valve stem!
Because it slips, and does fit every sized valve, and so on and so on. How much pressure can you apply to the seat surface with a rubber bit of hose? Try both and let me know. For the record I have. Many times
Those collet arbors are on amazon, you could make some money from amazon by putting their links to the collet arbor in your video description. I think they pay per click of the links and/or pay extra per purchase. Just saying, I'll be purchasing a set, might as well make some money for enlightening people.
I spent today lapping a cylinder head from a 6.4 ford diesel. I cleaned the entire cylinder head. Removed all carbon. Purchased new intake and exhaust valves. There 2 intake and 2 exhaust valves per cylinder. I lapped the valves using the hand tool and lapping compound mixed with grease from Permatex (it comes premixed). I doubled checked my work after finishing the cylinder head using water into the ports. Some water flows from the valves. A couple of drops here and there. The valve seats and the valves sealing surface looks perfect. Is this normal after lapping a cylinder head.
I got abit lost there in the question - are you asking is it normal for water to leak pass the valves? If so then no, its called a leak down test and the valve should hold all of the water indefinately. A couple of other questions -
1. Did you replace the valve guides?
2. Did you have the valve seats recut?
3. How many miles do you have on the engine?
Pony Power the guides are machined into the head. The guides are in excellent condition. Have you ever checked for leaks using water after lapping all of the valves? Some local machines shops have said it is normal for a few drops to get by until the engine has been run. They have said Water is not an official or accurate test. Just gives you a general idea of condition when heads are removed. As long as you get a even valve seat that is within spec. Using Prussian blue to check seats along with dial caliper. I am trying to pick peoples brains before I put these heads back on engine.
Pony Power the heads are not warped either. No cracks. Valves are new.
It all depends how much, you'll see this from time to time on new valves. Water is one of (if not) the smallest molecules there is. Using water in a leak down test is as good as anyone can get (unless you use helium and a helium detector) You'll have to use your own judgement. If you see weeping (i.e very little) more like wetting than actual drops then you'll be fine. Valves are designed to rotate in the seats (well the camshaft causes the valves to rotate with OHC camshafts) im guessing your ford has pushrods? If so then they'll take longer to seat properly. At the end of the day, nothing really bad is going to happen. If they leak a slight bit then you'll be down on power slightly.
You'll know if you have a problem if you have back firing, This means that fuel is sneaking past the exhaust valves and igniting in the exhaust manifold. - Hope this makes sense - matt
FordTechATC mi
Hi thanks for the video, but I can’t find the link of the tool set you have if you could please repost or reply with name thanks
I sold them all ages ago...
Why not put the suction cup stick in a lathe, shave it down to fit a drill, and come from the face of the valve with a low or variable speed drill?
Patience it a virtue. Once you make the tool, you have it forever! And you can't rush lapping. If you use a drill at the low speeds required, a good drill will be quiet enough to still hear the pitch change.
Also, I suggest hot glue to make sure it stays. Peels off clean with no residue.
Lapping is good, but if you want ABSOLUTE BEST RESULTS, follow with a mirror polish. Little more work, but a good engine is worth it!
Same process, but the grit gets finer and finer. I recommend Brasso. It'll leave a mirror polish without damaging the guides or seats, if your careful. If careful enough, you can use it to CLEAN the guides! It's very fine stuff meant for valuable jewelry!
What is the O.D. of the nut on the collet tool. My head (Yamaha R1) has a bore where the bucket sits down into which is slightly less than 19mm. The tool would need to fit into this bore in order to reach the valve stem.
Hello mate, I'll have to measure it tomorrow, but it's going to be tight. The nut takes a 17mm spanner I think. But I'll confirm it. - matt
Just read your comment again, are you sure the buckets are only 19mm? I thought the springs are that size.......
I just measured the O.D. of the bucket. It's 19.96mm. So almost 20.
Hello mate, just measured the collet at it widest part, its 19.08mm is the biggest measurement I can get
Ok thanks. It may be tight for cinching up the nut, but I will look into it.
The tool is sold in a kit of 2 for various sizes try using the smaller one guarantee to get the job done when the right tools are there nooo froooooken nightmare that way only sucess . Very clutch tool thoe
I've watched a few of these valve lapping videos cause I fear I'm going to have to do the inlet valve on one cylinder shortly and they all complain about the tool not sticking. I thought, just stick some double sided tape on it?
I was taught with the stupid suction cup tool in a professional machine shop. It was a cat diesel head too big for the machine. We had a drawer full of drills but I had to pretend I was building a fire. I wreckon there was a reason for this so that’s why I will not use a drill to lap my valves.
There's 3 problems with this; Five problems Sire; five problems with this.
Which are?
Just paraphrasing Monty Python.
"I'll come in again"
Hello sir ineed this tool please give me adress which company
what do you use if your building a briggs flathead?
lol not this. Good point lol
Suction cup and hot glue, if it won't stay on after 1 drop of oil
Valve lapping plungers work great when you buy the proper size and keep it inline with the valve stem. My neighborhood Pep Boys has 4 sizes varying from 3/8" to 1 1/2". Thats one store a block from my house. There is a plunger for any valve if you look for it. Don't use an old one. Rubber degrades and plungers are dirt cheap. Put a dab of grease on the proper size plunger. Keep the plunger in line with the valve and dont push too fucking hard. Slow and steady wins the race and it keeps plunger stuck to the valve. Every problem with plungers you described can be solved buy taking your time finding the proper tool and using proper technique. Oh and stop trying to emulate a top fuel pit crew who can lap a valve in 2 seconds, your not that good.
the only thing i got from this video is to use hot glue gun and glue my lapping tool to the lil valves as I admit doing small valves is a major pain in the ass but his solution is not really cost effecient unless a business with a lot of heads being done .. another solution is to use rubber hoes on the valve end and spin the hose from opposite side as if a lapping tool and the amount of force needed to hold the hose onto the valve during lapping is not a lot ...
in fact the rubber hose option is by far the best option as it cannot hurt the valve even if you used a small hose clamp to tighten the hose on .. buying end mill tool set to make valve lapping simpler ?? is like using gold to toss onto your driveway in the winter instead of salt ? yeah it might work but why would you want to do it ?
Use hot glue gun on the sucker it works great and it peels right off
i was waiting on the great idea,,,,still waiting
RUBBISH,DO NOT DO THAT; use a piece of rubber hose instead;
Anyway,you MUST NOT use a drill to lap valves,you WILL scratch the seat and valve; ALL manufs. recommend a hand method with a sucker,going back and forth; (oh,wait...
Electrical shrink tube on the valve and use drill
Remember you should never rotate the valve when you are lapping it, you should use a back and forth motion. Rotation creates groves in seat and valve face.
The best tool for lapping valves is to use a bloody stick. Even though they can be cumbersome.
I'm sorry mate, but your well off the mark.
There is a reason to this madness.
The oscillating tools have been around for a long time. Maybe if you can fit one of these to your holder it might work.
www.goodson.com/Powered-Valve-Lapping-Tool-and-Cups/
However, valves rotate in their seats, they have been designed to do this and the camshaft actually causes them to rotate. So lapping valves in a rotating motion is correct. Companies that try and sell sand to an Arab, are doing just that. The seats are machined, and they rotate, the valve to. The seat is cut, again using rotation, where did you get this -
"Remember you should never rotate the valve when you are lapping it, you
should use a back and forth motion. Rotation creates groves in seat and
valve face." ?????????????
I got if from being in the business. This is what mechanics have known for a long time.
Take a magnifying glass and have a look at the valve face after you have spun it around with grinding paste, and you will see the grooves all around the surface.
The valves having rotator caps or being rotated while you run the engine is another matter, because then there is no grinding paste there, and they are only doing a fraction of a turn on each opening.
So your saying rotating in killing the valves, but they pass the fluid test when doing a leak down, so............. why would you want a better finish? Aren't you just knit picking for the hell of it? Not only that but rotating backwards and forwards won't help this. I'm dude but I'm failing to understand your point here.
That is crappy drill bit.
Valve steel is much harder, drill chuck wouldn't damage valve.
Lol bollocks
Nooo !!Wrong !!jus put a neodim magnet in the midle of ohe original tool and that's it
LOL have you actually tried that? Magnets don't deal with tortional translation (rotation) dumbarse
@@dirtygarageguyexcuse me ,are you $tupid ?
@@dirtygarageguy before you answer this stupid answers be sure that you know wtf are u talking about !!good why do you leave this kind of people to live !?
You did answer the question - that's how questions work.....
The original question was -
" have you actually tried that?"
@@dirtygarageguy No i didn't try in this type of example,but in many similar cases , think that neodim magnets are extremely powerful and you also have the suction rubber as friction material,the magnet keeps the rubber tight to valve ,but you need to use a kinda small magnet but very powerful
Boredom