90% of Welders CAN'T WELD This Joint, Here's How You Can.
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- čas přidán 9. 05. 2024
- Why the heck do so many welders have problems putting weld around this joint properly? Well, because IT IS HARD if you don't know what to watch for, what to avoid, and what to do to make it look AWESOME. Hang with me on this one, let's get welding.
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Have been in the biz for over fourty years, it just does not get any better than that weld. Thank you for sharing your craft, pay attention people this man knows his stuff
We can praise these welds all damn day, rightfully so; but the editor and the videographer are also definitely to blame for such a fantastic video! 30/10 fellas
in regards to the comfort, and i cant remeber where i heard it from but it stuck with me, might have been from the military, but i was told that "you need to learn to be comfortable being uncomfortable". some of the best advice i ever got.
Yeah that’s Navy Seal shit and they def need that skill. As far as welding, especially for anybody frustrated starting out, figuring out techniques on how to get comfortable make a world of difference. Better welds and less cussing. That’s my experience at least.
That sounds a little like "embrace the suck".
One of my favorite expressions is "if you don't mind, it don't matter"
Yup especially welding race car chassis that will put you in some messed up positions
Ain't that that damn truth!
Honestly dusty I've been watching you for a couple years now and I can honestly say I've learnt so much from you, I take pride in my welding capability as I sort of fell into the trade but quickly became obsessed with it as it's such a handy skill to able to do. I just wanted to take the opportunity to thank you for all your videos and the depth they go into with all the info you really can't ask for much more thank you mate 🤙
$25/hr. plus per diem and a 2013 Ford Taurus on company dime. Kidding. Very helpful, thank you.
Fantastic Instructional Video !! 💯
Beautiful work ! Great information , many thanks.
I try to tell ppl this all the time but they don’t want to listen so I sit back and watch them struggle lol. But I tried to learn them hahahaha
Great video. That would be a great trophy after the completion of your class. Thanks for my new goal.
Comme d'habitude SUPER.
Merci Dusty
Thanks for the info Awesome work
This was very helpful, thank you
That looks awesome Dusty
Good advice! Thanks!
Always a nice job
Thanks!
I'm guessing that you are a south paw. That's why it made sense to me. Thanks, I have a job that requires the exact procedure procedure.
Man that looks awesome!!!
Why couldn’t you release this in the beginning of last semester 😭 would’ve helped a lot. Great video as always
Let’s be honest. It’s all credited to that banging back cap 😉
Very good stuff as always Dusty.
Dusty what would you do if you are working on a new from scratch 30 gallon water tank for an RV. I would guess that you tack up the bottom and sides rotate the tank to do as many horz. welds as possible inside and outside then do the top last from the outside only. Dave
Beautiful! How many tries did it take?
Another banger!
I appreciate this so much my friend! A lot of work going into the episodes lately, but having more fun than ever. Thanks so much for joining for this one!🔥🔥
What would be your strategy for tackling this type of weld where the plates are so large you are forced to sit on it while welding the corner. I ended up getting a small height adjustable stool, cut off the wheels and stuck a rubber ball on the post. It allows me to rest my chest on the stool yet still allow you to pivot without sliding and frees up the strain in my back.
Straight tig torch will work too.
I have never been able to get aluminium down. But it did help me up my mild steel substantially lol
did you only brush your plate to clean it ? or you use acetone too ?
Was on a contract...(N.D.A) where I had to make that weld about 16X a day...difficult to master
Who sells those back caps?
Don't start or stop in a corner kids. On mild or stainless steels your making a failure point.
It's just practice a lot of practice and experience you'll be just fine
I guess 90% of youtube welders haven't heard of a flex head or straight head tig torch. That being said, I believe you're giving very little credit to the welding community. I agree it's more difficult than a straight fillet, but with a little thought process, even a rather new to the field welder could figure that out, just saying. Personally, I weld with either hand, so situations that can come up that may be difficult for someone who can only weld with one or the other hand may find it difficult to impossible for them to weld I find not difficult. My suggestion is to learn to weld using either hand. To go even further in your career, learn to weld with a mirror. It's like learning 2 languages. Once you learn another language, you understand your native language even better.
I agree. I am tired of this guy's clickbait thumbnails and titles
Great video. Lots of good tips. What size cup did you use, #5 with a gas lens? On your settings regarding 25% AC balance where you say 25% DCEP / 75% DCEN ... that's a bit of a misnomer (this may be a nit) but there's nothing "DC" when AC TIG welding aluminum. For every single AC cycle (no matter how long that cycle is based on HZ setting, let's say 1/100 of a second at 100Hz) you spend 25% of that cycle's time getting positive current and the other 75% (majority) getting negative current. But in neither case is that current DC or constant. Think of a normal sine wave (could also be triangle or square depending on your welder's setting). A normal sine wave spends half its cycle in the positive phase and half its time in the negative phase (50% balance). A 25% positive AC setting will compress that positive phase and stretch out the negative phase to compensate accordingly to keep the same cycle time. So for a 100Hz setting the positive part of the sine wave will be .0025 seconds and the negative part will be .0075 seconds over that one cycle. A picture would be a 1000 words here.
I have a request for a video. In other videos I've seen you mention that you ball your tungsten when TIG welding. How??? I've seen some people balling their Tungsten at DCEP. Some welders even have specific settings for balling tungsten. How do you do it on your Everlast welder, switch the cables around?
I appreciate the comment, and thanks for checking out the video. As far as preparing a ball on the tungsten I can definitely do this by flipping the terminals, but you can also turn the balance so that there is much more positive side of the cycle, I think when I get somewhere around 60% this will start to do the exact same thing🙂 I appreciate the feedback, have a great weekend!
@@PacificArcTigWelding thanks, i will try that on my everlast welder
I feel like most of the time in the real world overhand torching is uncomfortable at best as the part size is generally larger... I prefer to top feed and hold the torch off to the side that way I don't risk sticking the filler ( if you know you know). I've also had good results back feeding when traveling towards the pocket. Either way I would rather just weld through the corner with some 4 step, synergic, pulse on pulse and be done with it in about 2 seconds.
Still working on a 1/8” plate t-joint!😢
Now this is… notorious…
I'm not sure why but I always get porosity on this joint, for ex. I did a 2" tube frame w gussets flush on the bottom, I got rid of the mill scale w a flap disc and even took some acetone to it, but I still got some scatter porosity. After the joint is tacked up its basically impossible to clean since a buffing wheel can't get in there nor will a wire brush.
btw this was w low carbon steel, used a number 8 cup w a gas lens @ 30 cfh 115amp, 12 sec post flow , 3/32" 2% Lan
You shouldn't need a lens or more than 1 or 2 seconds postflow or that much gas for carbon steel. Try it with a straight cup and 20 cfh, and as little stickout as you can fit into the corner.
Sorry @maxscott3349, this is bad advice... you DO need decent post flow even on carbon steel... The post flow protects the tungsten, not just the weldment. Anything less than maybe 7 seconds (depending on your current vs tungsten size) and the tungsten will oxidise instantly when the gas flow stops. Try watching the tungsten during the cool down period ... you can see it flash to a different colour and surface finish instantly the gas stops, if your post flow is too short.
And yes it also protects the joint, but regardless of your joint material, you don't want to start your next weld with the tungsten all contaminated.
@@tano1747 You may have a point about the tungsten. I never really paid much attention to it because most of the TIG I've done has been on 7000 series aluminum and on that stuff your tungsten is just always contaminated. It's not really much of a problem once you get used to it
@guyfromgantz7976 you might have a contaminated flap disc... you should have one for aluminium, one for carbon steel, one for stainless steel etc, otherwise you only THINK you're cleaning the surface -- in fact you are embedding contamination into the surface roughness, and your weld will be less than ideal. The acetone needs to be applied with a clean paper towel, and you rub till the paper towel comes away from the surface without changing colour. If the paper towel is still picking up crap from the surface, then the surface isn't yet clean.
My level of diligence isn't always perfect either, but if it isn't, the chemistry always reminds me to try harder next time, via porosity and general crap weld quality.
Try a number 5 or 6 straight cup and turn your gas flow down around 20 and turn your amps down to 100. Tack up some practice pieces and start playing around with your flow,heat,and stick out. If you're not contaminating the material you should find your sweet spot. The disc you use on it should either be new or have never been used on anything but the material you are working with. Hope this helps.
After building drag cars few years we are most likely the best at perfection on are welds
Ok
Do tell.
I use a Miller cp220 and I have no problem welding pretty much anything 2,000 don't make that machine any longer
Let’s do some “real” aluminum… meaning everything that’s not clean and prepped and from great sources. Try a brand of aluminum from across the planet that is unknown and 7” thick. Let me know your thoughts.thank you.
Reminds me of a machine shop I worked in back in the day
280 amps on a 1/8 tungsten and I still had to sit on it for a while
99.9% of aluminum I ever weld is grungy dirty , of unknown origin and I almost never try to make ' dime stacks '
In fact, sometimes when it turns out a dime stack I go over it to smooth it out.
Guess I'm just a hack at aluminum.
All of the time: lab lab lab
Pro-jects 🇨🇦
Pretty standard sheet metal industry stuff actually. Click bait title.
OK young man. I'm glad you showed up for your welding test. Now all we have to do is put a hood over your head so you can't see anything...... Wow, that weld isn't even close to the joint and it also looks terrible. I guess we can't hire you. Maybe you should go to blind school for some extra training before you come back for another test. Sorry, we only hire the best.
🪙🪙💙💙🤙
Cheers my friend! I really appreciate you checking this one out, hope you have a great weekend!
Just don’t suck
Welds too shallow. Are you sure you won't need more filler material inside?
Yes
Pretty long winded
Too much talking
Rubbish 👏👏👏👏👏👏