How to Setup your Acoustic Guitar like a Pro - Full Tutorial
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- čas přidán 6. 07. 2024
- In this video you'll learn how to setup your acoustic guitar to get the most out of it in an easy and comprehensive way, using common tools that everybody have at home and with professional results. Enjoy!
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*Disclaimer: All the actions shown in this video are 100% safe for you and your guitar and are supported by years of experience doing this kind of works. Having said that, if you aren't familiarized with the use of basic hand tools like screwdrivers and pliers or don't feel comfortable messing around with your instruments, take your guitar to a reputable and trusty luthier to do it for you. Be safe!
Hope you enjoy the video!!!!!
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Useful products to setup and care your guitar:
Nut lubrication: amzn.to/3mxOVnY
Lemon oil for ebony/rosewood fretboards: amzn.to/2KURljz
Cleaner for all your guitar: amzn.to/3n2uHTX
Feeler Gauges: amzn.to/38k83ki
Measuring caliper/vernier: amzn.to/2Wt4CT2
Set of allen keys: amzn.to/38aYaFG
Guitar capo: amzn.to/38DIeMk
Clip on tuner (great for quick tuning during the setup): amzn.to/3ptD1h4
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All backing tracks of the video - in order of appearance:
Relaxed and Smooth Funk (Gm) - Guitar Backing Track
• Relaxed and Smooth Fun...
Killer groove Funk (Em/Bm) - Guitar Backing Track
• Killer groove Funk (Em...
Guitar Backing Track - Rock power ballad Bm
• Guitar Backing Track -...
Cool groovy Jazz Funk - Guitar Backing Track
• Cool groovy Jazz Funk ...
If you liked some of this tracks, please consider support my work by purchasing it in Band Camp - inspiringtracks.bandcamp.com/ - It´s only 75 cents and you're helping me A LOT to produce more tracks like this, plus you can download it to your computer in hi-res formats including mp3, flac and wav. Thanks in advance!!!
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Greetings from Argentina!
Juan Pablo - Inspiring Tracks - Hudba
Very interesting and informative. Many thanks for giving up your time to share your knowledge with others, much appreciated.
Excellent video. I’m working on a 1963 Gibson LG 0 and your instruction helped immensely.
I owe you a debt of gratitude that I could never repay. For those among us who love the beauty of the sound of acoustic guitars your information here is invaluable. You have reduced the perfection of the physics of the guitar to a level achievable to the average aficionado. Great job, whoever you are!
You could never repay? He literally has a Patreon, how about starting there. Or are these just pretty, empty words?
@@TheEchelonLmao.
Thanks for posting this tutorial; so helpful! The Bonus chapter was interesting, too! Gonna go get to work on it now, and will be back to check out more of your vids and jam to some tracks! Peace to you and yours! L8R...
Awesome video and music! I learned so much good stuff! Thank you
Great work... and the 3D process bonus was interesting. Thanks.
really enjoyed the tutorial,clear accurate and precise,plus good camera work.Well done Son.
amazing vid, just what i needed! subscribed!!!!
Great information. Thanks.
Nice job on the vid. One of the best out there
Absolutely awesome video. Very helpful and nice close-ups. I'm glad that I have found it!
Thanks! I really appreciate your comment and glad you liked the video
Thank you for your hard work on this video. Very helpful and much appreciated.
Glad you liked it!!!
Awesome video in great detail!! 😎
This was really excellent, thank you!
Ciao, i am writing from Italy. Thanks a lot for such easily understandable explaination. I try this afternoon and i will keep you updated!!!
Best video I have seen on this. No one ever told me about setting up a guitar. I best this is why I suck and it is setting in the corner in the house. This amazing.
Thanks, glad you liked it!
Excellent video and tutorial. The best I have seen on this subject. The addition of the captions is extremely valuable as well. Too bad the 3D Printer concept didn't work out as those devices can produce some amazing results. Thanks much for doing this.
Where are you located?
Great video! Entertaining, interesting and helpful. Cool music too. Thank you for posting.
Thanks! Glad you liked the video and the music too!!!
Great video work and great advice! Thank you for making this interesting instead of a lecture!
very good tutorial. detailed. thanks.
Very good , thanks for your video.
Very interesting and useful - so well explained. Many thanks!
Glad it was helpful, cheers!!!
After adjusting the string height at the nut It's advisable to sand the top of the nut so about 1/2 of the string diameter protrudes above the top of the nut. This prevents the strings from binding in the nut slot when tuning and when doing string bends.
Great video man.
Wow this is really detailed. Thank you!
Glad you found it useful!!
Best setup video out there by far. Straight to the point, shows what to look for, and how to actually set the guitar up.
Thanks, glad you liked it!!
Random stuff as gauges are very helpful man very nice 👍👍
Thanks! Glad you like the idea!
A tip I learned online for bridge pins; loosen the string then push it back down, under the bridge. This takes tension off the pin and it lifts out without any help.
Cut the slots in the pin holes like the ultra expensive ones have, and you'll never have to worry about stuck pins again, and the resonance will be much better also. Because the strings are resting up against the sound board, and not in the little notch
I might try my own setup on an acoustic for the first time strictly based on this video. Excellent work my friend. Thank you so much for your knowledge and video skills.
Great to know that and glad you liked the video! Good luck with the setup!
This is a valuable resource.
Thanks!!!
Very good explanation.
I like the Black Smith 80/20 Bronze Extra Light 10/47 strings that you showed. Currently, the strings that I have on my acoustic guitar are way to heavy of a gauge and causing me to apply way too much finger pressure. Thanks for sharing great setup video. I appreciate you.
An outstanding and very detailed presentation..not to mention the background music you chose for the making of this video 😎🌺🌈🤙🏽
Thanks a lot! Glad you liked the video and the music!
Love love love …… I have burnt my eyes and wasted many minutes watching from so so to mediocre videos for acoustic set up. I am so glad I stumbled across yours and became a subscriber. I have been in possession of and older Takamine left to me by an old friend for many years. The nut was missing, and the bridge was lifted had a split and a sloppy attempt glue repair oh the saddle had been pulled forward and was stuck in that position. So, I found what looked like a direct replacement by the measurements. I learned how to remove the bridge with a little heat and sure enough it had been originally glued to the lacquer. I also ordered a bone saddle and nut. Well, the pin holes were off, so I filled with a wood epoxy and plan to redrill … not there yet. I think what I have learned here will be a big help moving forward. Thanks, if all goes well, I will send an update lol.
GREAT video!!
Thanks!!
Well done!
Thanks!!
I ALWAYS setup my own guitars. I don't understand what others are afraid of.
I guess i just don't believe in having to depend on someone else to go to whenever anything happens. That's true in all of life as well, lol.
That said, i try to learn as much as possible, so that i do a good job. Whatever the task.
As far as guitar goes, i learn from every source i can, and this is yet another good one!
Others are worried about possibly screwing up their guitar.
@@MarkEWallace And How was the intonations when you got done with your self-serve setup? Make a video and post it on youtube
@@missanthrope2 Huh? You said you don’t understand what others are afraid of. I simply answered that others are afraid of screwing up their guitars.
Do you somehow have a problem with that answer?
@@MarkEWallace please feel free to show how the set UP process worked... It is my opinion that when the guitar is built is the only time correctly to set UP the guitar to get the correct intonation. That is why I said show us the intonation on the acoustic guitar?
@@MarkEWallace I like you my guitar was not in good intonation 1/2 step + and the strings had a bit of a buzz in position 1. so to get the neck to lean forward I took the truss rod nut completely off and greased her up to fight future rust. And the neck still did not move * two days later it started to move so I put the nut on and tighten just enough to stop the rattles.. And oiled the finger board. But strange i found that put the guitar back to intonation 2cent+ way better than it was . but at 12 fret 5mn string height way high .. Then by night came and the neck bow back where it was. So as I played it the heat from my hand then brought back the relief. And when I stopped playing it went straightened again. So truss rod adjustments take days to get right. Then you adjust the saddle. Or buy 4 saddles because if you change your strings to a different guage you will once again do both .. So extra saddles are required when you get new strings.
Thank you so much for this! Great quality content. I really like the 3d print idea. I wonder if wood filament would turn out better than the PLA or ABS shown.
Thanks! I guess with saddles and nuts the harder the material the better the transference of strings vibrations to the rest of the guitar. All 3d printing materials I know are pretty soft but never tried wood filament, maybe it can work a little better
Great Video!
Thanks!! Glad you liked it!
You've got one of the best channels out here man, you deserve way more. I really wanna give you money for this, no kidding. How can I do it?
Wow thanks a lot!!! It's really great to know that you liked the channel so much. I have a link to my Patreon page here in the description, you can support the channel there if you want. Thanks again for your support and I'm glad you liked the channel. Cheers!
Hey, thanks for providing this kind of value. I'm an acoustic guitar player and I like keeping everything organized and maintained. Kudos for the video 👏
Glad to help! cheers!!
Great vid bro!
Thanks! Glad you liked it
Excellent instructions.
Thanks!!!
Many thanks for your video. Helps a lot. I use Teflon spray (do not spray at the nut though, but on a wooden tooth pick) in order to lubricate the nut.
Finally a video I can understand about setups without 45+ mins or more of rambling or useless information 🤦♂️.
Got any videos on setting intonation?
Can you even set intonation on an acoustic?
Great video! It was very informative, and definitely provided some ideas for how to change up my process a bit. You also showed me a couple tools I should pick up. The torch tip cleaner nut files are ingenious!
Thank God we saw how to pull each peg nice and slowly.
Thank you! Question: Did I miss something -- how can you adjust the intonation of the guitar, so the octaves are in tune, for example?
This is a great straight forward video. Thank you for sharing !! Can you tell me if the settings would change for 11's ?? I use 11's and I wonder how much different the settings would be? I used your helpful settings and I believe the nut needs to be replaced as the g string has almost no gap and the saddle has the strings too high. I believe it was set up with 12's. Thanks again !!
Thanks!
Thanks to you for your support! I really appreciate it!
Loved that you used a thick,soft cloth to protect the bridge when levering out the bridge pins, not entirely sold on using wire cutters instead of a bridge pin tool though 🤔👍.
Very useful instructional video👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you for walking us thru this process 😊
this is great. i've been playing guitar for decades and my acoustics get out of whack all the time and I can't afford to go running to the luthier every time i need an adjustment. I wanted to learn how to set up my guitar on my own and I am following this video as a guide. so far so good. I knew something wasn't right, and the video helped me determine the saddle is way too high. i'm going to sand it down tonight and see how it goes!
Good luck! Remember to measure twice and sand once! Dont rush it and take all the time you need
@@InspiringTracks thanks, i'm working on a plan to make sure I sand it evenly. I have an oscillating sander tool, i think i will use that to start and then change to manual on a flat surface. my string height was 3.25 mm!
@@InspiringTracks thanks! i actually broke the saddle, trying to get it out without removing the strings! but I glued it back together for temporary, and i ordered a new on that just arrived. the guitar is WAY better now already.... in the next couple days I'm going to put the new one in and make sure it's the right height. thanks again.
@@InspiringTracks Haaaaaaaa
Only one thing I would do differently is check string action before adjusting nut height. It’s a lot easier to replace a saddle if filed too low than having to replace the nut because of open string fret buzz.
He’s doing string action without a capo I think? This means that it depends on the nut…..so if you then adjust your nut slots it will screw up your action
Nice work. The compensating of the saddle.? How is this measured? Methods of accomplishing this task? Where do I obtain nubone saddle material?
Good video..not talking too much but easy to understand what he did
Great Video! This actually helped me a ton! The only comment I have is that if you sand down your saddle by 1.5mm (as an example only) the strings lower by 1.5mm. Not sure where the idea of it only lowers it by 1/2 of what you sand down came from but just wanted to let someone know that so that you aren't afraid to remove what is needed. Initially I measured my 6th string at 3.5mm at the 12th fret and then my 1st string at 3.25mm at the 12th fret. My target was 2mm at the 6th and 1.75 at the 1st string so I needed to shave off 1.5mm from the saddle to get to where I needed to be. I sanded off 1.5mm and my action was PERFECT at 2mm and 1.75mm respectively! Just follow the steps of this AWESOME video and you will be successful!
I thought the saddle reduction had to be double the 12th-fret action because the 12th fret is the halfway point of the strings. Since the strings angle on a downward slope from the bridge to the headstock, the distance between the string and the fretboard at the halfway point should naturally be half as high as where the string meets the saddle. I don't want to question your measurements, but do you think the results may be related to the position of the truss rod in your guitar?
As I understood and also it must be like this geometricaly - if you want to lower the action by 1.5mm you have to cut the saddle for 3mm
just take a blank paper and make a points at A: X, Y (0, 0) - B: (6, 4). And make the 3rd point exactly in the middle at C: (3, 2). Then lower the action by 2mm"s it will change the point B: from (6, 4) to (6, 2) and take a look how high will be the new point C (the middle) it will be exaclty at the half of cutted amount (from 3, 2 to 3, 1)
Nice video. The 3D printed saddles were cool too. One of my favorite parts was that technique for removing the saddle. I like the order and flow of your setup process as well as the care you exercise. I think you could call it the Zen of setting up an acoustic. I am curious to know why you didn't use lemon oil on the fret board or polish on the body. Is it possible to overuse lemon oil?
Very interesting and cutting edge expose' on where technology is in 3d printing.
It inspired me to think of an idea you may ponder;
What if you used that 3d part to make a mold? Then, pour molten glass or a more dense
material? Perhaps it would be too intricate but maybe in the future a better material will be developed.
I have a few electric guitars.
Yesterday I bought my first acoustic.
A Fender made in Indonesia the seller only tried it a couple times and it was almost free.
This was an awesome video, everything shown clearly how to set it up.
It has sky high action now, impossible to play and you clearly have the process I need.
I thought yesterday about getting a set of welding nozzle files.
I found your CZcams channel and subscribed due to the Metal Zone mod I did. 👍
Your Patreon link doesn’t work for me.
I’d like to join that and am interested in your backing tracks to help me learning guitar.
I’m 2-1/2 years in and progress every day.
Thanks and I’ll try to see if I can find your Patreon site, I have some specific questions for you there.
The Patreon link in this description doesn’t work.
Great!
Thanks!!!
@@InspiringTracks Do you plan to make a video about classical/nylon string guitar?
❤😮❤ went to adjust the saddle without checking the 1st fret action with your tooL ? What should it be . also lighter strings need a little higher because the vibrate more
Genio!!
Muchas gracias!!
The good old hard drive magnetic.
If you adjust the truss before setting the saddle and nut depths do you need to go back and re-adjust the truss?
GREAT VID! I also love steel wool....But did you mention its gotta be .0000 steel wool grade? Anything higher can damage the wood and take off too much from frets I believe. And LOVE the garbage bag + magnet idea! Gonna steal those ideas bro XD
Thanks! I'll add a little recomendation about 0000 wool, thanks for the remeinder! There's really no risk of damage with something coarser but certinly you'll need to work more later to polish the frets and leave everything shiny. And i'm glad you liked the bag idea! It's quick and super safe for the guitar. Cheers!!
@@InspiringTracksCool, great to know! Really good tips from you all the time. Cheers and thanks again for clear, no-nonsense info, tips and tutorials!
BTW, I also have a recent Washburn acoustic :D
@@joesatchton212 Thanks to you, I'm glad you found the videos useful. Congrats on your Washburn, I'm pleasantly surprised with mine, after an initial setup it plays almost like an electric, super low action and really comfortable. The fret job isn't pretty and you can see some tool marks but they are leveled to perfection. Awesome for the money!. Cheers!
Great video. My daughter has just started guitar lessons at school and I'm looking to find her a good beginner guitar without spending too much in case she doesn't stick with it. The thing I've noticed in many reviews of various brands is that they often need tweaking and setting up especially at the lower price ranges. I'm fairly sure that I could do what you've shown in this video if I needed to but I may just get a shop to do it. Any recommendations for a guitar would be much appreciated. Currently considering things like the Yamaha 310 and that lower price range.
I've been playing since I was a teen. I currently own, have owned and have played, a number of high end and custom made guitars . But I just love cheap guitars that sound good and are easy to play. My favorite hands down is the Ibanez Art Wood series. They retail new around $230 but can be had used in the $110-$150 range. I just bought another used one for $110 off eBay with free shipping and I can't wait to get my hands on it. Put some Elixir poly web or nano web light strings on it and she'll play. Frankly I favorably compare the feel and playability of them to the Martin D & HD-28s and the D-16 which I now own. That ain't too bad a crowd to be with is it?
Haha, sped-up tuning sounds awesome. :) 08:15
Will try on my cheap Harley Benton guitar. Can you share the STL file?. Thanks.
When you’re measuring your relief and your action hold the guitar in the playing position. I have an expensive set of nut slot files AND the torch tip files you used, they work really well! I use René Martínez “Nut Sauce” in the slots. He was Stevie Ray Vaughan’s guitar tech and he’s excellent. Google his name, you’ll find his site. And just to repeat the most important detail of setting up your guitar: as the guy said go SMALL steps. It’s easier to take off a little more than to have to cut a whole new nut! Also always check for free buzz by playing each string up the neck and see if it’s buzzy. Sometimes you have to sacrifice perfect action to get rid of the buzz. Go slow, go far!
Q
Thx - my $90 jzmanS35 sounds alot better now with D’add EJ 16s -I want a decent tool kit -need your help
What is the name of the tool you used to deepen the nut slots? Please advise so I can purchase one. Thanks so much for the awesome Video!
They are technically torch tip cleaners but ive seen them also advertised as nut files. Real nut files are way more effective and expensive but this ones work fine for some touch ups
rain Kool
Nice video! Keep researching on the 3D printer... Very interesting.
Thanks, will do!
Not sure about the Dremel tool to shave the bridge? One slip..DONE saddle required. Slow on level sanding block for me. Nice video, well done.
Nothing I like better than reading a video!!!! Talkies were invented in the '20s.....
Reading is good for you
@@InspiringTracksSORRY, but I don't think so!
When I"m watching such a Video, I'm feeling it verry uncomfortable, to read Your Text at the same Time, while my Ears are hungry waiting for these informations!
Sometimes it would be extremly better to TALK, because there is a lot to look, how to do it!
🤷♂️ Sorry for my bad English ...
Greetings from Germany ✌️
I checked the height of nut at first fret by putting a capo at 3rd, as you did, and there is no clearance. And yet there is no buzz. How can that be? Should there always be some clearance?
Hey thanks for putting this up man. Clear & concise. Great music as well! I have a question...
When adjusting the string action (by trimming or raising the saddle). the string length from nut to saddle will lengthened or shorten; however minute; depending on whats done. Is this correct? And thus will affect its intonation. Is there a work-around to this?
I've actually done a saddle height trim once before and took off about 1mm from the bottom. The intonation was spot on before I made the adjustment. With the trimmed saddle installed, intonation went to shxt! I couldn't figure out what went wrong and my best guess was the change in string length.
BTW, that was the last time I will ever try to set up an acoustic guitar lol
Glad you liked the video! And that's an excelent question! Since there's no way to easily adjust intonation on an acoustic never tought about that. What you said makes sense but in my experience never noticed a significant change in intonation. Since isn't that common to play high notes on an acoustic I think isn't a big deal
@@InspiringTracks Try playing Blackbird!! Thx for the reply :)
One detail I read from luthiers is when winding the strings through the posts, make sure the wounds are on TOP so that the string is at a correct angle to the nut. I think I saw that this was a bit inconsistent in the video. Not sure if this is true or makes a difference though. It's just something I read. Good video though !
Thanks! There's not much difference in winding up or down. As long as you don't make a mess and keep all the windings nice and not overlapping each other, then tunning stability will be fine. It's kind of like the "top wrap" on Gibson Tune-o-matic bridges, just a personal prefference that doesn't have much real world impact. Cheers!
Is it okay if I only adjust the truss rod?
Do you think 3D pringing could be used to fine tune compensation and later file one from a proper material?
Absolutely, you can 3d printed one and tweak it until you find the sweet spot and then translate it to the proper part. That should totally work!
Great video but I don't understand the difference between adjusting truss rod/neck relief and the action on a guitar. Seems like the same thing?
Not the same at all. Relief is not for action, it sets the fretboard into the proper shape to accommodate the arc a string makes when played, less movement at the ends, more in the middle of its length. Action is set by adjusting the saddle. If you use the neck relief to assist your action you end up (more than likely) increasing the relief and bringing the string to high off the middle frets. Then your notes will play sharp. Measure your relief and adjust it, that will remain the same, it’s set by the straight line of the string between the first and 12th fret. Too long, sorry!
Great video! I just did this exact same process on my first nice acoustic, a Taylor. Factory setup was 2.5mm, but it felt too high for my taste, so I sanded the bridge down a bit to get it down to 2mm, much improved! Although using a dremel is smart, took me forever to do by hand XD
That's great, enjoy your Taylor! Dremel is fast but also a little bit risky, in a nice guitar like yours and for a small adjustment I think I'll also use only sandpaper. Cheers!
Why do you buy good guitars when you're a beginner everyone will be salty at you they would be like this guy must be good he has an expensive guitar then you cant even play the c chord everyone's gonna insult and laught at you and you'll be insecure
A Taylor. My favorite !!! My baby is a Taylor GS Mini Koa wood..... Awesomeness 😀
Is the steel wool mandatory? I've seen people just use a soft cloth and lemon oil, have you tried that method before? And if so can you explain why you prefer the method you use. Trying to find the best way to do it, but I like to know the why behind it haha
SW wool is just one of the many methods out there. It's by far the messier but I found it works wonderful on very dirty boards. Other people use razor blades or naphtha but I don't like to use solvents or sharp objects. If your guitar has only the light dirt from a couple months between string changes then a soft cloth and some lemon oil should be more than enoug. You can also use some fret erasers to polish the frets and you are good to go.
Thanks for the great video! Only got one question (probably a no brainer for most of you): when you checked the nut height using a paper as gauge meter (correct use of word?). Is the string not supposed to be able to move down and make the “ting” sound when correct height?
Eventhough it seems no gap, but it should be enough to move slightly a little. But you should also able to create similar sound when you do the tapping like in the video demonstration
Wouldn't it have been a better to do all the measurements, adjustments, etc. before putting new strings on. That way, before cleaning the guitar, all measuring, filing and other adjustments could have been made using the old stings. Then the old strings could have been removed, the guitar thoroughly cleaned, and then the new strings put on, with little left to do other than fine adjustments and tuning, on the newly cleaned guitar.
Just a thought...
Maybe tension in new strings is different from tension in the old worn stretched rusty dirty strings, which might affect the neck? Just guessing. But I see your point.
You can skip the nut steps if you put in a zero fret. It's a little work up front, but save some time in the long run.
Do you have a video on electrics. I got one of those $150 guitar and amp as a gift. I bet it needs some TLC. That why it is in the corner too.
Check the channel, I have lots of videos about several models of electrics
Hi what kind of steel wool you used
0000 (or .0000 I can't remember if there's a decimal point or not, but you want the steel wool that has four zeros)
How much was 3d printer that is good I wish I had ine
Great video for a beginner learning how to fix our own instruments. I have to laugh at your blurring out a pile of SOGGY dog crap sorry, call me immature but it made me laugh a good 5 minutes after lol!! Again great video. putting new strings on today!! Much appreciated!!
Lol Thanks! Glad you liked the video. That was the intention with the blurring, also glad to know that it made you laugh! Cheers
The way reduced the saddle is pro. That s fast.
Thanks! It works great for removing lots of material
Why use the string winder to remove old strings, but not when fitting new strings?
Sincerely why I used it., kind of hate that things lol
Doesnt truss rod adjustment already fixing the low or high action? Do i really need to mess with the saddle because that thing is scary
Using the truss rod to adjust action isn't a good practice, you may end up with a neck with an unnecessary bow just to compensate the saddle problems. To me it's way less scary working on the saddle, you can always buy a new one for a couple bucks and install it in seconds if you mess up things. Hope the same can be said about the neck lol
Using the truss rod to adjust action isn't a good practice, you may end up with a neck with an unnecessary bow just to compensate the saddle problems. To me it's way less scary working on the saddle, you can always buy a new one for a couple bucks and install it in seconds if you mess up things. Hope the same can be said about the neck lol
Thank you for your kind answer, im new to all this. One thing: if not the action height, what exactly does the truss rod adjustment fix? I thought the whole point of truss rod adjustment was giving the fingerboard a good action
The truss rod adjusts the "straightness" of the neck. It should be almost perfectly straight excep for a really small bow that let the strings some room to vibrate without hitting the frets. When you adjust it the action certainly can and will change but this is a side effect, it need to be adjusted later at the saddle. That way you'll get both perfect neck bow AND the prefect action
@@InspiringTracks thanks again for this. Really informative. Best of luck.
I think it would have been better if you had some acoustic music playing
😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍
Steel wool is nasty to use. Try scotch brite instead.
Indeed is pretty nasty but it works like a charm if you can control the mess
Intonation?
Waaay beyond the scope of this tutorial
The groove in your string un-winder (on the part that goes over the machine head) is actually a bridge pin remover...
No, the string unwinder you mention is 3d printed and don't have a pin remover, plus the video shows how to remove the pins even if you don't have one of these...