Another great video! Reminds me of my Dad pulling the sleeves out of our RD6 Cat back in the late '50's. We were getting water into the crankcase and the reason was obvious. The seal surfaces in the block at the lower end of the sleeves had corroded letting water past the seals. I say "water" because we couldn't afford proper coolant. Dad used diesel fuel in the radiator during the cold Kansas winters and straight water the rest of the year. To repair, he coated the block sealing surfaces with Devcon plastic steel and smoothed them with a stone on a drill, reassembled and then ran for a few more years. Poor Kansas farmers.
Glad they came out good and the block looks usable too. I thought it would. A lot of thought went into building those rigs years ago before all this pre-programed stuff. And as far as lubing up, back in the day of the 237 gold dog Mack engines there were a lot of blown head gaskets here. The main mechanic that came down here from West Virginia would re-torque the heads. He'd pull one bolt out at a time, oil it and then put it back and pull it back down. That was the last of the blown gaskets. I had a Rabbit diesel that was bubbling between the block and the head so I asked him if he thought the Mack deal would work and he said he thought so, so I tried it. The Rabbit book said to pull them to 90 or so and then 3/4 of a turn and not to re-use the bolts. I didn't have new bolts so I pulled the old ones to 90 and 3/4 of a turn after oiling and it ended being around 150-ish. I did that to all of them and no more bubbles. I remember that whenever I have to pull something down. Thanks, Toby! Hi to Pop as well and everything you do is good stuff, even feeding the heaters!
Just started a Cat Apprenticeship... Got to do this for the first time and it's remarkable how simple the design is yet how effective! Change our sleeves makes life easier when it comes to rebuilds 👌
That's exactly how I remember my grandpa doing it when I used to watch him in his shop. One thing I never got to see him do was put them back in. Maybe he didn't want me there either because I'm guessing there's a fair amount of swearing involved in trying to get the o'rings to seat without catching and rolling. If your looking for another video topic itd be a good one for when the time comes. Stay warm and brace yourself for the storm they're predicting for this weekend!
We pulled the liners in a 1970s? D6 one time. We hooked up the puller on the bottom then the top was hooked to the 10 ton overhead crane. The tractor was lifting before the sleeve came out.
After your "usual" clean up and checks this could be a strong engine for the future! A good video for the need to boil out engines with non removable sleeves. I am still impressed on how small the block is! Can't wait to hear it Hum!
Squatch, I don't know who you are, but let me tell you …...you are AWESOME!! I never knew about the cylinders and how they get junked up with crud, but you showing how the sleeves are removed is a great learning experience. Thanks for taking the time to make this vid.
Yep used to pull sleeves out the big 650 Cummins engines when I was in diesel school fun times back then those pistons were huge looked like two one gallon paint cans stacked on top of each other
Fascinating....one thought about the sediments is typical as found in the old ford flathead V8. One of the many causes of the V8 overheating was found to be build up residues of the original casting sands. After casting the block design was such that pockets of sand remained inside the cast water jackets. Just a thought about this issue. Great videos and very informative.
I like to see this type of work....I done lots of gasoline engines and was always interested in how hard diesel was to do....I did a Continental six-cylinder also in an old Oliver tractor that had sleave....wish I would have had this knowledge at the time....got the sleeves done by a machine shop...I could have done them easy.....CHEERS
Well when you pulled the first sleeve I figured it would be full of crud but I was as surprised as you were number four was more like what I'm used to. Great job keep up the good work. I catch myself checking every day to see if you've added a new video.
Wow that went so easy! I pulled the sleeves on a B-275 International and made up the same kid of set up. I tried it with threaded rod that was coarse thread and it could not handle it. I had to use a rod from a big puller we had with fine thread. I had to heat the sleeves and use a pipe on the bar. I was afraid I would crack the block but at that point it came down to do or die. I got to the point where I had one of the sleeves glowing I had to put so much heat on it. The worst of the bunch was the back cylinder. It was so full of crud and debris around the sleeve that 3/4 of the water jacket around the sleeve was full. After all the torture on that block it checked out just fine. Was quite incredible what kid of force it could take!
You made my comment for me, most failures are found in the tail end of the block. Since the water pump is all the way forward the rear gets the crap and lower flow. A lot of the pony motor failures were overheating due that fact.
Enjoy your videos and learn alot from them.i like the old iron and working on them. My equipment is a 1940 ford 9n ,1969 580ckcase backhoe,78 gmc dump truck and am looking for a small dozer for upnorth property.
CAT sure did make things right and heavy duty back then. Even with all the gunk inside the block, the walls looked pretty good and the sleeves could have done double duty as morter launchers.
A trick when changing cooling fluid is to run a fill-up of coffee machine descaler and tap water and let it cool (like you would do a coffee machine). Removes scaling and rust and does not eat aluminium parts or water pump seals. Does this every 4'th year and my cooling channels are spotless.
Hi Nice video, on a 30-40 years old marine diesel with salt water cooling the cast iron turns to a dark brown material you can cut with a knife, a good old handmade thumbs up to you.
I used to work in a automotive machine shop and we removed 'dry sleeves' like the Ford 8N engines by making 4 verticle welds inside the sleeve let it cool to ambient temperature and the sleeve would normally come right out -assuming you didn't burn through the sleeve. With your knowledge you probably know about this.
I've had to freeze liners to get them to break loose in Semi-truck engine blocks. Some Mack blocks are the worst I've dealt with because they are siliconed on the bottom of the sleeves. Setting deck protrusion also has to be done immediantly with those same sleeves because of the " set up" time on the silicone.
Damn, I didn’t know the sleeves would come out. I certainly didn’t know the sleeves had seals and the sleeves complete the water jacket. Who would have thunk it. Great video thank you.
That's why they're called "sleeves". They can be replaced if necessary. On engines that don't have a sleeve design, if one bore is really messed up, your only hope is to be able to bore out the cylinder to another level, which by rights, should have the same done to the rest as well, then you need times however many cylinders you have for parts and labor... whereas with a sleeved engine, if only one cylinder/piston is messed up, you only change out one sleeve and piston. First sleeve and piston job I saw done was a farmer whose B414 had run dry and overheated the lead cylinder. I was impressed that he only had to replace just that one, the rest were still quite fine. A few hours of wrenching and both he and his old International were back to work. He never had another issue with it after that, but he did replace the leaky water pump during the same job which had caused the loss of water and the overheat to begin with.
yes thats so true remember that today less is supposed to be more lol most of the shit produced these days wouldn't last 1/4 of the time that goes for cat also they have gone from a reputation for solid reliable equipment with excellent performance to mediocre at best certainly just one of the crowd not the stand out manufacturer of years past
Very useful video. I'm going to build a rig similar to what you have for future use. Question: how deep do you turn down the 3 and 11/16" diameter from your total 1-inch height? It looks like 1/2" but there is no spec on your blueprint. (0:39) Thanks.
Great video. I have seen sleeve's pulled on some older Cummins. Today's stuff they say is better. I disagree with that. I like the older stuff. Mane because I'm old. Lol.
Another great video! Reminds me of my Dad pulling the sleeves out of our RD6 Cat back in the late '50's. We were getting water into the crankcase and the reason was obvious. The seal surfaces in the block at the lower end of the sleeves had corroded letting water past the seals. I say "water" because we couldn't afford proper coolant. Dad used diesel fuel in the radiator during the cold Kansas winters and straight water the rest of the year. To repair, he coated the block sealing surfaces with Devcon plastic steel and smoothed them with a stone on a drill, reassembled and then ran for a few more years. Poor Kansas farmers.
"Counterproductive, to say the least" I liked that.
I find videos like this interesting and informative. I haven’t turned wrenches in several years as a mechanic, but I still do as a hobby on occasion.
Will never wrench on anything but motorcycles and cars and i still find these videos entertaining😎
Glad they came out good and the block looks usable too. I thought it would. A lot of thought went into building those rigs years ago before all this pre-programed stuff. And as far as lubing up, back in the day of the 237 gold dog Mack engines there were a lot of blown head gaskets here. The main mechanic that came down here from West Virginia would re-torque the heads. He'd pull one bolt out at a time, oil it and then put it back and pull it back down. That was the last of the blown gaskets. I had a Rabbit diesel that was bubbling between the block and the head so I asked him if he thought the Mack deal would work and he said he thought so, so I tried it. The Rabbit book said to pull them to 90 or so and then 3/4 of a turn and not to re-use the bolts. I didn't have new bolts so I pulled the old ones to 90 and 3/4 of a turn after oiling and it ended being around 150-ish. I did that to all of them and no more bubbles. I remember that whenever I have to pull something down. Thanks, Toby! Hi to Pop as well and everything you do is good stuff, even feeding the heaters!
Liked all the videos on the tear down. Just keep doing what you're doing and don't apologize.
Just started a Cat Apprenticeship... Got to do this for the first time and it's remarkable how simple the design is yet how effective! Change our sleeves makes life easier when it comes to rebuilds 👌
Its good to see someone who can, when he doesn't have a tool, he makes it ! Also good to see an American who isn't afraid to get his hands dirty!
That's exactly how I remember my grandpa doing it when I used to watch him in his shop. One thing I never got to see him do was put them back in. Maybe he didn't want me there either because I'm guessing there's a fair amount of swearing involved in trying to get the o'rings to seat without catching and rolling. If your looking for another video topic itd be a good one for when the time comes. Stay warm and brace yourself for the storm they're predicting for this weekend!
We pulled the liners in a 1970s? D6 one time. We hooked up the puller on the bottom then the top was hooked to the 10 ton overhead crane. The tractor was lifting before the sleeve came out.
After your "usual" clean up and checks this could be a strong engine for the future! A good video for the need to boil out engines with non removable sleeves. I am still impressed on how small the block is! Can't wait to hear it Hum!
Amazing how easily those are came out!
Yes I did learn something new, thanks for showing this step, love seeing the massiveness and heavy duty design of all these parts
I can tell you love the old cats.
@ 0:42 "Let me give you some specs on it"
And you show us a drawing too! Love this video already.
Definitely learned something new here, you made that look easy Squatch, well done.
Love the way you explain and no music and you take your tim thank you very much
Squatch, I don't know who you are, but let me tell you …...you are AWESOME!! I never knew about the cylinders and how they get junked up with crud, but you showing how the sleeves are removed is a great learning experience. Thanks for taking the time to make this vid.
Dang looked like a rock slide when you pulled that fourth sleeve!!!! Nothing better than a good sleeve pull first thing in the morning!!!
This was another fun one to watch. Your videos are just like being there.
Superb. Need to rebuild my 3j engine so you videos are excellent to watch before I start.
Same system I used on my D7 17A but used old cat wrist pins over the studs
Wow, I've learned so much watching your channel brother!! Keep up the good work, you're going to be a huge CZcamsr sooner than later!
Yep used to pull sleeves out the big 650 Cummins engines when I was in diesel school fun times back then those pistons were huge looked like two one gallon paint cans stacked on top of each other
I imagine I will never pull the sleeves on D2, but now I know how to. 👍
I don’t play the lottery, but if I won, I’d pay you to rebuild whatever you felt like. Huge budget, no time limitations.
very informative and you did a great job with camera changes and breaks in narration, perfect.
love your videos man so fun to watch
Stellar video. Great views and explanations. Thank you for posting.
Great setup - thanks for sharing !
that was very interresting now i need to see how you put them back in. thanks for the video.
Fascinating....one thought about the sediments is typical as found in the old ford flathead V8. One of the many causes of the V8 overheating was found to be build up residues of the original casting sands. After casting the block design was such that pockets of sand remained inside the cast water jackets. Just a thought about this issue. Great videos and very informative.
And that is how it's done, bravo.Ty for sharing
I like to see this type of work....I done lots of gasoline engines and was always interested in how hard diesel was to do....I did a Continental six-cylinder also in an old Oliver tractor that had sleave....wish I would have had this knowledge at the time....got the sleeves done by a machine shop...I could have done them easy.....CHEERS
Nice vid I definitely learned how to do that job thank you keep up the great work
Very nice, looks so easy when you do it, another great video
Well when you pulled the first sleeve I figured it would be full of crud but I was as surprised as you were number four was more like what I'm used to. Great job keep up the good work. I catch myself checking every day to see if you've added a new video.
Good job ! I do all ,my sleeves the same way with homebrew puller- but use 1-14 fine thread rod just makes a little easier on the pull.
Boy those came out easy. Yup I have seen where the crud has built up twice as bad as those were. Thank for another interesting video.
Wow that went so easy! I pulled the sleeves on a B-275 International and made up the same kid of set up. I tried it with threaded rod that was coarse thread and it could not handle it. I had to use a rod from a big puller we had with fine thread. I had to heat the sleeves and use a pipe on the bar. I was afraid I would crack the block but at that point it came down to do or die. I got to the point where I had one of the sleeves glowing I had to put so much heat on it. The worst of the bunch was the back cylinder. It was so full of crud and debris around the sleeve that 3/4 of the water jacket around the sleeve was full. After all the torture on that block it checked out just fine. Was quite incredible what kid of force it could take!
@mad ass I think heating and dumping in nitrogen would work very well.
Always a learning experience.
You made my comment for me, most failures are found in the tail end of the block. Since the water pump is all the way forward the rear gets the crap and lower flow. A lot of the pony motor failures were overheating due that fact.
Enjoy your videos and learn alot from them.i like the old iron and working on them. My equipment is a 1940 ford 9n ,1969 580ckcase backhoe,78 gmc dump truck and am looking for a small dozer for upnorth property.
The best tools, in my experience, are shop made. That is an ingenious system.
Great camera positioning. Keep up the good work.
You do nice work!
Good job. Great tool !
Neat thank you for filming this.
Bloody brilliant video squatch 👍
So interesting, keep em coming!
Brilliant. Learned something AND was entertained....
this was soothing to watch
Short, but sweet. Thx for the video.
CAT sure did make things right and heavy duty back then. Even with all the gunk inside the block, the walls looked pretty good and the sleeves could have done double duty as morter launchers.
I pull sleeves 2 or 3 times a month, always use a impact. It’s going to the scrap hooper
Thanks ron
That was way too easy
Loved it Eric
Great camera locations!
Brilliant instructions. The sludge turned my stomach.
I learned something and i was entertained at the same time :) ,
good video!
peace
A trick when changing cooling fluid is to run a fill-up of coffee machine descaler and tap water and let it cool (like you would do a coffee machine). Removes scaling and rust and does not eat aluminium parts or water pump seals. Does this every 4'th year and my cooling channels are spotless.
Thank you !
Great camera work.
Hi Nice video, on a 30-40 years old marine diesel with salt water cooling the cast iron turns to a dark brown material you can cut with a knife, a good old handmade thumbs up to you.
So far so good.
Great video!
So the bottom hole is smaller than the top? Very interesting! First time I have ever seen this done. Thanks for the video.
I used to work in a automotive machine shop and we removed 'dry sleeves' like the Ford 8N engines by making 4 verticle welds inside the sleeve let it cool to ambient temperature and the sleeve would normally come right out -assuming you didn't burn through the sleeve. With your knowledge you probably know about this.
I've had to freeze liners to get them to break loose in Semi-truck engine blocks. Some Mack blocks are the worst I've dealt with because they are siliconed on the bottom of the sleeves. Setting deck protrusion also has to be done immediantly with those same sleeves because of the " set up" time on the silicone.
These engine had being helped with a rust inhibitor filter installed in the cooling system.
Learned something and entertained :)
Nice job 👍
that was really interesting thank you
Good lesson. Thanks
Damn, I didn’t know the sleeves would come out. I certainly didn’t know the sleeves had seals and the sleeves complete the water jacket. Who would have thunk it.
Great video thank you.
That's why they're called "sleeves". They can be replaced if necessary. On engines that don't have a sleeve design, if one bore is really messed up, your only hope is to be able to bore out the cylinder to another level, which by rights, should have the same done to the rest as well, then you need times however many cylinders you have for parts and labor... whereas with a sleeved engine, if only one cylinder/piston is messed up, you only change out one sleeve and piston. First sleeve and piston job I saw done was a farmer whose B414 had run dry and overheated the lead cylinder. I was impressed that he only had to replace just that one, the rest were still quite fine. A few hours of wrenching and both he and his old International were back to work. He never had another issue with it after that, but he did replace the leaky water pump during the same job which had caused the loss of water and the overheat to begin with.
Stan Patterson t
Thank you, great explanation I learned a lot.
Oh that is most satisfying.
Hey! Really good videography. BobUK
OTC. Owatonna Tool Company. Owatonna Minnesota 👍 Thanks for the nice video.
Yeah learned & Entertaining Thanks
Thank you very informative.
Nice job. Thanks
Those are pretty thick liners especially at the bottom, don't normally see them with that thick a wall especially not in the newer stuff.
yes thats so true remember that today less is supposed to be more lol most of the shit produced these days wouldn't last 1/4 of the time that goes for cat also they have gone from a reputation for solid reliable equipment with excellent performance to mediocre at best certainly just one of the crowd not the stand out manufacturer of years past
I used to put the new sleeves in the Coke machine to get cold.they install easy,r..cold metal is smaller..
Thanks for sharing 👍
Nice tool
Awesome
learned AND entertained. :)
Doesn't seem to be any red flags as far as your donor block goes...next...block inspection? Great video! Still crossing my fingers!
Better off using a copper/aluminium shim under those v blocks which would prevent any accidental marking of the deck... nice solution though..👌👌
Very useful video. I'm going to build a rig similar to what you have for future use. Question: how deep do you turn down the 3 and 11/16" diameter from your total 1-inch height? It looks like 1/2" but there is no spec on your blueprint. (0:39) Thanks.
Great video. I have seen sleeve's pulled on some older Cummins. Today's stuff they say is better. I disagree with that. I like the older stuff. Mane because I'm old. Lol.
great video.Where did u get a puller bar that size
nice video
Nice!!!!
Well done. What is all of that debris? Minerals in the water?
Good video! Imagine if they used only water for the coolant?!
Simple, effective and safe way to pull sleeves - makes sense! So it's a cast-iron block with steel inserts?
Squatch, where do you get your replacement engine parts for the old D2’s? Thanks.
A litle bit of lube on the thread will be a good help 😉
Nice 👍🏼
Would you ever consider modifying the water pump impeller to provide more push?