1990 Miata Restore Project Episode 22 - Brake Fluid Flush
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- I got my Dad to help me again with changing my old brake fluid that had the color of baby diarrhea to new DOT4 fluid. Stainless steel brake lines are now on the list.
Hey there, I hope you'll see this post. I don't normally comment on videos, but wanted to give you a shout. I've been watching all your Miata vids, and really enjoy them.
I just bought, a week ago, a 1991 Miata and it has a laundry list of things to do. I expect to do all the jobs you've done on your car to mine. In fact, I have new brake pads and rotors ready to go on this week.
Thanks for taking the time to do these, and make them visible and comprehensive for the Miata noob.
Cheers!
Congrats on the new purchase! Be careful. You'll fall in love harder than you want to, and you'll spend money that you don't have to get it to be exactly what you want. And that's the fun. You'll be nursing an old vehicle back into good health. I'll be releasing a light rant video in the next few days about my 2016. It's ok. But it's definitely no 1990. Best of luck to you and if there's anything I can do to help answer any questions, feel free to contact me.
+goodeggpro I hope I don't fall too hard. I'm already looking at more stuff than I planned. :).
The biggest issue is that the car was repainted at some point a slightly darker red than the original color. Then it must have been damaged because the hood and passenger fender are classic red.
So now I wonder if I should get it painted to match. Slippery slope there.
Frank Raymond That's definitely a bummer. Paint jobs, even on cars as small as the Miata have prices that fluctuate wildly, but there's nothing like a quality job where someone cared to do the prep correctly. I was lucky that the kid before me never took care of the paint, so I was able to restore it to almost factory when I got to it. Had he polished it every month, or used the wrong products, it could have been ruined. Plus someone repainted the passenger fender and used a clearcoat, which the original Miatas didn't have. Single stage paint is so much easier to revive.
I don't know what I would do in that situation. I might even look at getting the car wrapped rather than painted. Wraps have come a long way in a short time and they can look just as good as paint, but they're just as expensive as a quality paint job. I'd put that toward the bottom of the list of restoration since it's such an expense. Not much sense in having a beautiful paint job on a car that doesn't run. Plus, it would suck to have a great paint job wrecked by working on it for months afterwards and all the scratches and dings you might put into it during the work.
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loved this video, was very informative and presented with all the right details. You make bleeding the brakes and changing the fluid sound easy, thank you.
You can also use a soap dispenser to get the fluid out
having access to a brake fluid exchange machine makes this process 10x easier and you don’t have to worry about mixing the new stuff with the old stuff
Youre supposed to do the line furthest away from the res. first..........
Samiata Just an urban legend
We are a-pos-ta look in the service Emanuel and he will tell us - hang-long wit other mucho importnti details.
Miata with turbo 😀
@@Seth_Desu bruh any where you look besides here tells you that's the way to do it.
The Brake Fluid will go down as the pads wear and the brake cylinder travels further.
For us complete novices, having close-ups of how you actually connected each wheel would be helpful. I know you showed us once, but I didn't have a clear idea of the process of when to tighten the wrench, when to loosen the wrench, when to tighten the screw (nipple? same thing? not sure), etc. I have literally never done this before, so slowing down more and giving even more steps for dummies like me would have been helpful.
Also, you talked about resistance, but again it wasn't clear to a complete novice like me exactly how to check that. I would be doing this myself without a helper so I would need to understand all of the steps.
I have to balance the videos between informative and entertaining. Too much detail work and the videos get really boring and nobody watches. The video is quite easy to follow though. Open the bleeder valve, pump brakes which pumps fluid through. Close bleeder valve to add more brake fluid to the master cylinder reservoir and repeat until all the dark fluid coming out turns light. The resistance will be felt immediately in the brake pedal once the bleeder valve is closed.
Finally, if you don't really feel confident, DEFINITELY do not do this job alone. It's ultimately easier and more effective when there's one person to pump the brakes and the other can work the valve and top off the reservoir fluid. If you mess up and drain the reservoir and get air into your lines, you have a huge problem that will take a LOT of time and a LOT of fluid to work out the air. Do not attempt this alone.
that intro haha, subbed.
The fluid in the reservoir should actually be close to clear when you're done, you just didn't get all of the fluid out of there.
I had a porous master cylinder. In episode 31, I replace it and put all new DOT4 in it. It's much better now.
how much fluid did you use? how many bottles ?
I'm pretty sure I didn't use more than one in total. When you're bleeding it, you just have to be sure to keep the reservoir from going too low.
What size inside diameter tube did you use?
I honestly don't remember. Pretty much just got lucky with the tubing that I had. If I remember right, I bought the tubing from the aquarium area at WalMart. It's pretty small tubing.
3/16" inside diameter. Both say it at 10:10.
Just for reference for anyone else who stumbles on this in the future!
please make that the intro to every video
So... this is a bit late... but on miata's (na's and nb's) You're supposed to use DOT3 fluid. Shouldn't be much of an issue but yeah...
Johnathan Schlief DOT4 is backwards compatible, but you can’t use DOT3 in DOT4 systems.
huh, the more you know! didn't know that. I know dot4 can handle higher heat than dot3.
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