Calibrating BMS on Tesla
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- WARNING! Don't discharge to low SoC if you have a weak 12 V battery!
My car refused to charge past 96 %. I have mainly been staying between 20 and 70 %. So my guess was that the BMS (Battery Management System) was uncalibrated and needed a fix.
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what a nice trailer for second part. I love it
Love the dramatic music
I supercharged yesterday my P85 from 2014 after driving to 2%. My car has 135000km and it went up to 99% , then I left the stall while the car was still pulling 2kWh and mentioning charging complete in 5 minutes. For me it was ok , I charged 70 kWh. Together with what was in the battery being 2% I assume my total capacity is still approx. 72 kWh. After 8,5 years I am satisfied with this result.
Teslabjørn, going beyond the call of duty so we don't have to!
Oops, I thought you were still in the borrowed Model S for about 30 seconds there. OK, you're in Optimus.
EDIT: Actually, I'm really glad you've made this video, BN. Just a week ago or so I was confidently assured by a diesel driving relative that you have to REPLACE the entire battery if you happen to run it down to zero. When I said, 'no, that's absolutely not true', he became adamant that he'd been informed on a serious mainstream TV channel. Where do they get their rubbish info from? This is the kind of crap the advance of EVs is up against.
Anyway, I shall link him to this video so that Uncle Bjorn can set him straight. 😎
ANOTHER EDIT: No, no, no. I can't link him to this video now. You put a really scary bit on the end. 😁
Common ego problem.
I like the preview of the next video at the end
I heard that Tesla BMS starting to balance cells after 93% SoC, so it is basically wasting energy coming from the plug trying to discharge high voltage cell in favor low voltage cells. This could explain why it takes some much time to charge. It would nice to see your battery modules cells voltages. I have a cable for connecting tesla battery CAN bus to OBD adapter so you can use Scan my tesla app. If you want I can give it to you. You need to go deeper!
17:17 Bjørn break his car ... again ... and we all can't wait to see next episode!
My guess is that too many cells where at 100% percent and a few much lower. The Tesla therefore had to stop charging to bleed off the higher charged cells first before it could continue charging. So it might just have been sufficient to let the car sit at the 96% plugged in for hours. Instead of discharging it to 0% and charging it again. I have read elsewhere that the balance resitors in a Tesla BMS are rather small, so it might take hours before it could start charging again. Someone with a Tesla should try this.
Same issue I had with my MS90D some weeks ago. Stopped charging at 94%....
Hey. BMS doesn't need cells to be discharged low to correct itself, and discharging this battery that low only shortens its live. Just plug it overnight and charge to maximum, drive next day, charge again overnight to maximum and it's done (should be 100%).
Wrong. There is a Video of Björn, where he explains the principle behind the BMS.
Just Google about this topic. Lots of info out there.
It's a good opportunity to do a capacity test just to find out the battery's state of health.
Hi, yes You can test the capacity, but thats all. I'm in LiXXX battery chemistry and management systems back from where they started. Don't know tesla tho, but the basics are the same. If You failed once, just repeat first steps few times until BMS self-corrects. Dramatic low discharging of LiIONs is really bad idea :-) Regards.
How do you know that you are not seriously damaging the battery longevity by charging/discharging from 0-100%? The established advice is to not push over 90% and to try to avoid going under 10-20% to preserve the longevity of the battery. Unless you don't care and are intending to just buy a new pack, I guess. Also, if you are topping off to 100%, you should try to peel off that capacity back down quickly (i.e. immediately drive off) rather than allow it to sit around idle/sleep at 90-100.
16:50. And I was wondering why you had that warning message poping up so many times.
kitmanevo 12v is weak
12 Volt Battery stabbed Optimus in the back. There are rumors that Model Y doesn't need 12 Battery any more.
Bjorn thanks so much for your time and effort amazing videos and extremely entertaining. Fantastic cliffhanger for the next vid. All the best from Canada.
So, why DID you run it so low when you had a 12V battery warning on the screen? i was surprised you made no mention of that warning early in the video when we first saw it.
My Model X 100D now refuses to charge past 71%.. 18,000 miles only
What exactly does an "uncalibrated bms" mean? If the cells are at 4.2V then the BMS should know its 100% charged, even if its coulomb counter does not agree.
Uncalibrated is probably meant as unbalanced cells
czcams.com/video/v4FvBqXHbv0/video.html
At 50,000 km my S 100D only charges up to 99% and 332 miles of reported range.
What would be a nice feature is if you can toggle between the % charge and the km by simply toggling the numbers with one touch, instead of having to change the settings.
Use the profiles to create another say Max% MaxKM and just change the energy setting and it remembers !
They added this feature now in M3/MY lol
I'm surprised that there isn't a screen to show the individual states of charge of each cell.
Even cheap BMSs have that!
I'd also expect balancing to use charge redistribution rather than bleeding - there's an opportunity for the next generation.
Andy Lee Robinson I have the access to this info for my 2019 Chevrolet bolt using a simple Bluetooth OBDII device that connect to my smart phone. I can watch it live as I am am charging, I can monitor Voltage changing in each cells and I never noticed more than 0.01 Volt variation. My charge cycles are typically 75-40%. Unless going on a trip.
Model X founder? What is the production dates? From 2011 till?
What is battery size and hp? Or is it like a 100D?
Good shit
Would be interesting to see if you can easily change out the 12V battery at a service garage which is not Tesla to save money (or even do it yourself).
+nerdywolfi Tesla does tend to bury its 12V batteries deep in the frunk. The original Model S was particularly horrible in that regard. A keen owner could replace the battery if they were happy getting that involved but it is not the trivial 5 minute job that it would be on most cars (see CZcams for how-to videos). I'm guessing most service garages would not want to get involved. Then we have the battery. I'm sure any 12V lead acid battery that would fit would work but probably not for very many years. I'd rather pay the extra and get a Tesla approved replacement that has been optimised for a large number of charge/discharge cycles with no particular need for the high cranking amps that a traditional ICE 12V lead acid battery has to provide. My Model S is 3 years old now, the original 12V battery is still fine (Tesla service can pull up the car's logs to determine how often the DC to DC converter is called upon to top up the 12V battery from the 400V traction battery, if it is having to do this too frequently the 12V battery needs to be replaced).
Probably just get a deep cycle battery instead of a regular automotive one. Although I wouldn't be surprised if Tesla's systems just treat it like a regular battery and mostly keep it topped off all the time, in which case a regular automotive battery would be better than deep cycle. If you're going to the trouble to dig out the old battery, it should say on it which type it is.
Nice video. I really wonder if it will go a 99% in range. I am tune in... Haa ha.
Is this still your recommended way of calibrating the BMS or has it changed?
Love the videos please do more int the snow
Bjorn, any experience with battery error on bms_105,115 and vcfront? Have you seen this error at all? My car broke down and won’t start. It’s at Tesla SC now. Unfortunately.
My 2022 Tesla broke down yday. It’s got 10k km and had it for 3 months.
Definitely need a follow-up vid on this, and if you trickle charge it from very low if that helps the BMS re-cal/level the batts etc?
You say 0:20 "I was getting very low changing speed at higher state of charge"
That's the physics of the battery, and noone can change it. No matter if the battery made of lead acid or LiFePo. The higher charging state means also slower charging.
It would be possible of course increasing the charge voltage to increase the current, but in that case your battery is going to degrade very fast.
Did I go deep Enough? Priceless
cliffhanger!!
Goodonyah Bjorn
I saw a Tesla Model X driving down our towns main road today, it was a polar white one! Damn I bet owners of those have to wash it like all the time as that white in winter look muddy most of the time? The Blue seems a better colour to pick I think? btw BN what is the Scheduled Charging mean on the display you had on about charge levels in the video?
Oh no! The coming soon episode looks bad... About the recalibration i was mixed because you slow charged up to 96% again and then you managed to charge it up to 99%! You managed it because of recalibration?
What a cliff hanger at the end there :D
Hey Bjørn, love your videos! I just purchased 2018 Model S 75D and I've only charged it to max % once. That time, it only charged to 253 miles (max should have been 259). I had about 1,000 miles in the odometer. I think I'll try what you did, push it to 0 mi, then slow charge to max, and keep it at that for a few hours. When I take it to service, I'll also bring it up. Let me know if any other suggestions. Keep up the great work!
Mehmetcan Karahan Crazy. My 2016 S75 charged to 211 miles at 80% and 230 miles at 100%. I am now at 198 miles at 80% after 38000 miles.
I have issue With Leaf and bad DC/DC converter. If SoC is under 49% will the car not able to start to charge at all. 12V battery dropping to 10,8V and need a fossilcar help to get 14,4V to kick the relay in DC/DC converter on. Lowest voltage for relays is 12,3V
can't wait for the next episode
Can you show us how to connect a trailer ( European version ) to Tesla model X, starting from receiving a new car till its connected and how to get lights for the trailer.?
czcams.com/video/p4DAtybRQIU/video.html
The rest is in the manual.
Can't wait for the next video, when will it be out?
In 10 Tesla minutes.
:p
@@bjornnyland Sheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeit!
Hi I have a alert on tesla model s85… level of battery maximum is reduced. But I have the same power …just it doesn’t charge fully and the alert is there.can you help me what to do
I want to see next video
That's what she said.
O.M.G. Awesome teaser, Bjørn 😨
Did I go deep enough...that’s what she said!!
Did she put something in you?
Hey is it the same way for model 3
Entertaining and technical as always. Great video for learning. :D
Bjorn, I saw that in this car 12v battery needs service soon. Same like on my car. Could you please recommend me some reference battery. The original Tesla battery expensive enouugh.
You should check out Lasersaber's supercapacitor battery replacement.
czcams.com/video/z3x_kYq3mHM/video.html
Mhm, i read that you should not empty the battery to 0. This could damage the battery. But maybe this info is wrong. There are so many different infos about battery loading in the internet. Also maybe Tesla is different.
There's a 5 kWh bricking protection.
0 is not 0, the cells probably have about 2.80v to 3v
You can do that sometimes to recalibrate stuff or to give them a boost from 0 to 100
I had a similar thing happen at a fast charger (46Kw is the most we have in NZ) Kona would not go above 95% charge. Got home and used granny charger and it went to a 100% again? Could ambient temperature be an issue. OAT was 7degC at the fast charger.
I think 28A was too high for calibrating the BMS. You should set it to very low, then the BMS would be calibrated at the first charging.
Bjorn sounded like a blonde swede....spoiler alert....he's Asian. Mind blown.
Why is your Tesla capable of 32A? Min only does 24a or is this only for 3 phase?
Mine is also max 24 A at 400 V 3-phase. The 32 A is for 230 V single phase.
Simon Plaît you can set the amperage on the screen. From 16? To 48 A. If you get the higher charger in the options, it will charge at 72A
At 13:58, it appears you are charging on a fast DC charger rather than a level 2 like you have at home. Did the fast DC charging give you a higher max battery percentage?
What was the capacity test results!?
I didn't get a correct measurement yet.
What a cliffhanger!!
Why is it neccessary to sit at 100% for hours? After deep discharge, this it the second most harmful state for a Li-Ion battery. Could you explain it? Thanks
When charging and discharging individual cells might not be drained/charged equally. if you do a lot of fast charging and discharging the difference gets bigger and bigger.
By leaving it at 100% you give the BMS/charger the chance to balance cells (on in the case of tesla's because not every cell is monitored) groups of parallel cells. I don't know the tesla packs, but in most cases "charging" is done by just applying the charging current through the entire pack (a series of parallel cells) and then balancing the parallel groups individually which is usually done with a very small trickle charge to charge the "weaker" cells more, or discharge to drain the "stronger" cells so that you can apply a charge current to the entire pack again to charge the groups of cells again to hopefully end up with a pack where all (groups of) cells are having an equal charge. (unless there are many defective cells that should be possible)
If a bunch of cells have failed in a single "group" of cells that group will always be drained faster, and charge faster which is gonna make balancing more and more difficult, or worst case impossible. if it's impossible the BMS should be able to adjust to that, and charge the good groups of cells a little bit less to compensate for the bad group and just set a new value to display as 100% to keep the consumers from complaining, but the range/available energy will be less for the same 100% you used to have.
Of course I don't own a tesla nor have I ever opened up a pack to actually figure out how it works, but this is how it works in most battery packs.
The whole discharge to 100% Bjorn did is imho more likely to do harm than good, and a bunch of partial discharges and leaving it plugged in over night would probably have been capable of either balancing the pack, or "re-calibrating" it as well if the BMS is smart enough.
Hi Bjorn, did you change your CZcams name from Tesla Bjorn to Bjorn Nyland? Are you planning to swap your Tesla for a different car?
It has always been "Bjørn Nyland". I'm not planning to swap my Tesla for something else. Simply because Tesla is the best EV as of today.
I’m glad to hear that! Thanks!
Looking forward to part two! Found your fav place to eat while in the US... they're all over the north-east... czcams.com/video/LyoH8vgk5IU/video.html
Maybe the car couldn't charge to 100% due to the cold weather? Is this the reason?
Nope. It wasn't cold.
Hi Bjorn, for more informations about your Tesla, BMS, battery and thermal analysis did you try "scan my tesla" on the google play store? (play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.emon.canbus.tesla&hl=it). It would be awesome if you'll bring it on the channel! Please thumbs up for let him read this!
2 I want a Tesla