Thanks for your video, I wouldn't of felt comfortable attempting this without watching the first. 27mm socket is needed for the torque wrench tightened to 110nm. Cheers great help.
There was an update for the early models as 13-32mm is too tight- my gearbox bearing was whining at this tension-so Triumph recommend 25-30mm on its wheels,which I set to 35mm on the ABBA stand AT THE TIGHTEST POINT-VERY IMPORTANT and missed off this video.My bike is the 2009 Street Triple 675R.
Great video. You make it so simple. Just did a 6K service at my dealership, and I think all those knuckleheads did was change the oil(after I told them not to-I do it before winter), and did not check jack on the bike, especially the chain tension.
Per the owner's manual: -Place the motorcycle on a level surface and hold it in an upright position with no weight on it. -Rotate the rear wheel by pushing the motorcycle to find the position where the chain is tightest, and measure the vertical movement of the chain midway between the sprockets. -The vertical movement of the drive chain must be in the range 21 - 30 mm. (0.83-1.18 in.) (13/16 - 1+ 3/16in.)
The manual’s recommendation is impractical unless you have an able assistant. The paddock stand method described in video is an exactly equivalent suspension load and much more practical.
There was an update for the early models as 13-32mm is too tight- my gearbox bearing was whining at this tension- so Triumph recommend 25-30mm on its wheels,which I set to 35mm on the ABBA stand AT THE TIGHTEST POINT-VERY IMPORTANT and missed off this video. My bike is the 2009 Street Triple 675 R.
Can't beat the price of that Harbor Freight stand, light weight, great design and it works as intended. They do make open end wrenches with a 1/2" drive hole so you can use them on a torque wrench, if there's an application there's a tool out there for it, thanks for posting, I enjoy riding my street triple, cheers mate.
Looking good felt it looked a little tight but you did measure it so hay must be good. The only thing I would do is find the tight spot first and adjust to that point 👍
turn the wheel and push chain up with three fingers and find the tightest point of the chain first, there is a section of 4-6 links tighter than the rest and mark that tightest link with paint, very important to do that first or the chain will be to tight on the gear box, read your manual, make chain adjustment on the painted link
X chains only need a thin film of lube to prevent corrosion. The real lubricant is sealed in the chain. Save you a mess with the spay and wipe it a moist towel. Just a thought. Good video btw.
The Triumph manual says that when retightning, you should "...push the wheel into firm contact with the adjuster.. tighten both adjuster lock nuts..". Any idea what they mean when they say push the wheel into firm contact?
wheel alignment, so it would be perfectly straight, and not a couple of mm of. remember that this is written for legal purposes. so you can't go to court when you break your chain by having an un-alligned rear wheel.
I have rear wheel out and found a lot of wear on the sprocket oil seal and spacer bush. Sprocket bearing is fine. Very low mileage. Anyone seen the same?
Why would that matter and if it was me I would do it in neutral and I would also be turning the tire and checking the whole chain for that tension instead of just one spot
Daytona has a track set up. Very Common to have a more play, so the suspension has more play too. Road bikes have less need of more free play in chain and therefore suspension. The manual says 13 mm - 32 mm play, mine is set up at 20 mm - 25 mm play.
Cool info. Probably also why the Street Triple calls for much higher rear tire pressure, which makes the ride unbearable. I lowered it to the Daytona pressure.
+Michael Keller Yes less pressure more grip by the rule. For straight highway commuting I set the pressure a bit higher, also for more tire mileage. About the chain tension, less tension gives a greater margin between the rear axel and front sprocket in groundplay, so more play for the spring/suspenion to set in and out. Of course there's also the torque to keep in mind. More torque needs more play.
I believe it was .75 inches, the manual calls for .5 to .9 inches. I was just looking at the manual again and the spec for the Daytona is much looser. I wonder why?
C'mon man you have been a mechanic for 20 years. Use a crows foot to act as you're open ended wrench with a torque wrench. Not saying I wold actually use it in this instance, but it certainly exists.
Simple explaination but all the correct info
good video man, gave it a thumbs up. But next time can you give the equivalent measurements in Metric for the rest of the world. Cheers bro.
Thanks for your video, I wouldn't of felt comfortable attempting this without watching the first. 27mm socket is needed for the torque wrench tightened to 110nm. Cheers great help.
Great how to video, just disagree on a few things done during the process. But you did cover all the things to do. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for posting, this video comes very much in handy as my tutorial.
Great video, thanks Michael
Thanks for making the vid!
Great video man. Very helpful
Thanks man! Just what I needed!
There was an update for the early models as 13-32mm is too tight- my gearbox bearing was whining at this tension-so Triumph recommend 25-30mm on its wheels,which I set to 35mm on the ABBA stand AT THE TIGHTEST POINT-VERY IMPORTANT and missed off this video.My bike is the 2009 Street Triple 675R.
Great video. You make it so simple. Just did a 6K service at my dealership, and I think all those knuckleheads did was change the oil(after I told them not to-I do it before winter), and did not check jack on the bike, especially the chain tension.
Per the owner's manual:
-Place the motorcycle on a level surface and hold it in an upright position with no weight on it.
-Rotate the rear wheel by pushing the motorcycle to find the position where the chain is tightest, and measure the
vertical movement of the chain midway between the sprockets.
-The vertical movement of the drive chain must be in the range 21 - 30 mm. (0.83-1.18 in.) (13/16 - 1+ 3/16in.)
huh weird.. i had a look at an owners manual online and there it said between
street triple: between 13-32mm
daytona: beween 28-38mm
@@RSfiregod may depend on the year
The manual’s recommendation is impractical unless you have an able assistant. The paddock stand method described in video is an exactly equivalent suspension load and much more practical.
There was an update for the early models as 13-32mm is too tight- my gearbox bearing was whining at this tension- so Triumph recommend 25-30mm on its wheels,which I set to 35mm on the ABBA stand AT THE TIGHTEST POINT-VERY IMPORTANT and missed off this video.
My bike is the 2009 Street Triple 675 R.
That's pretty cool, didn't know it existed.
Can't beat the price of that Harbor Freight stand, light weight, great design and it works as intended. They do make open end wrenches with a 1/2" drive hole so you can use them on a torque wrench, if there's an application there's a tool out there for it, thanks for posting, I enjoy riding my street triple, cheers mate.
+1 It's called the crowsfoot wrench (adapter).
Looking good felt it looked a little tight but you did measure it so hay must be good. The only thing I would do is find the tight spot first and adjust to that point 👍
Useful video', that chained looked a bit tight. Did you measure just under 1 inch of slack?
turn the wheel and push chain up with three fingers and find the tightest point of the chain first, there is a section of 4-6 links tighter than the rest and mark that tightest link with paint, very important to do that first or the chain will be to tight on the gear box, read your manual, make chain adjustment on the painted link
I am a subaru street triple owner as well (; My chain was loose straight from the dealer at 36mm.
subaru street triple owner here too lmao
Our people are of fine intelligence !!
Can't beat that triple boxer engine.
X chains only need a thin film of lube to prevent corrosion. The real lubricant is sealed in the chain. Save you a mess with the spay and wipe it a moist towel. Just a thought. Good video btw.
thanks... the question is how to align the rear wheel after some adjustments...how to measure the ideal alignment
been a mechanic for 20 years and never seen or known open end torque wrenches? where and what have you been working for 2 decades? 😅
whats you after market wind screen. how do you like it?
That's pretty tight from the manufacturer? My 2005 gsxr 1000 calls for 1 to 1 1/4 inch. Wonder why there so different. Both have chain drive
hello sir.. how do u see if the tyre centered or not? do u see the dot on the swingarm?
Respect the Harbor Freight lift, I have 3 😂
The Triumph manual says that when retightning, you should "...push the wheel into firm contact with the adjuster.. tighten both adjuster lock nuts..". Any idea what they mean when they say push the wheel into firm contact?
wheel alignment, so it would be perfectly straight, and not a couple of mm of. remember that this is written for legal purposes. so you can't go to court when you break your chain by having an un-alligned rear wheel.
Where did you get your bike stand? It looks like a very solid one.
Its from Harbor Freight and they are alright stands. Under $40 so don't expect too much out of it.
@@Ghost590 Mines held up amazingly and I don't expect much from HF but would buy this again for sure
I have rear wheel out and found a lot of wear on the sprocket oil seal and spacer bush. Sprocket bearing is fine. Very low mileage. Anyone seen the same?
how are you checking the tension? in gear or in neutral?
Why would that matter and if it was me I would do it in neutral and I would also be turning the tire and checking the whole chain for that tension instead of just one spot
Daytona has a track set up. Very Common to have a more play, so the suspension has more play too. Road bikes have less need of more free play in chain and therefore suspension. The manual says 13 mm - 32 mm play, mine is set up at 20 mm - 25 mm play.
Cool info. Probably also why the Street Triple calls for much higher rear tire pressure, which makes the ride unbearable. I lowered it to the Daytona pressure.
+Michael Keller Yes less pressure more grip by the rule. For straight highway commuting I set the pressure a bit higher, also for more tire mileage. About the chain tension, less tension gives a greater margin between the rear axel and front sprocket in groundplay, so more play for the spring/suspenion to set in and out. Of course there's also the torque to keep in mind. More torque needs more play.
Hey, do you check the chain tension with the bike on a paddock stand, side stand or with the rider sat on it?
it's painful but i usually count the threads on each adjuster so there both even
I believe it was .75 inches, the manual calls for .5 to .9 inches. I was just looking at the manual again and the spec for the Daytona is much looser. I wonder why?
Michael Keller geometry
Even the Daytona calls for a looser chain, and it's pretty much the same bike. I don't know why they are different
the rear shock is different, much firmer
Anybody know the size of the rear axle bolt ?
Axle nut is 1 and 13/16 on my 2001.
Or 27mm
C'mon man you have been a mechanic for 20 years. Use a crows foot to act as you're open ended wrench with a torque wrench. Not saying I wold actually use it in this instance, but it certainly exists.
Waaaay to tight
It’s within factory specs, making it not “waaaaay too tight”