Airbrush Tutorial: Airbrushing with Candy2o Part 2
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- čas přidán 11. 01. 2019
- In part 2 of Airbrushing with Candy2o I walk you through another method of incorporating candies in your artwork. This video covers painting an entire image using only candies over a metallic base coat. I offer tips and tricks related to layering candies for outstanding results!
Auto Air Sealer White amzn.to/2Dum2r1
Auto Air Colors Metallic White amzn.to/2TdFbC9
Candy2o Midnight Blue amzn.to/2DSE9H6
Helix Electric Eraser amzn.to/2R88btC
Faber-Castell Eraser amzn.to/2R9nLoE
Tack Rag amzn.to/2KyYKRh
Spray Max Wax & Grease Remover amzn.to/2QRaBRn
Candy2o Lemon Yellow amzn.to/2Ssmda9
Candy2o Poison Green amzn.to/2GR5CLT
Candy2o Emerald Green amzn.to/2Dulb9N
Candy2o Tequila Yellow amzn.to/2R8YX45
Texture F/X Stencils amzn.to/2LSPg4f
Createx 4011 Reducer amzn.to/2AWabPN
Createx 4030 Intercoat amzn.to/2RFEOhS
Iwata HP-CS amzn.to/2OCUD78
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This is great Trevor. I never realised the full potential of doing a whole painting with Candy2O until I looked at this video. I was simply using Candy2O as a uniform glaze over basecoats or artwork. This is awesome
Thank you my friend! I'm glad you found the information useful!
Thank you. That turned out amazing. Hope to see another video soon.
I appreciate the kind words Pete! Thank you for watching!
The flashlight really showed the effect! Glad you added that!
Thank you!
Thanks for the awesome video with great info and tips. That artwork looks amazing. It will definitely pop in the sun. Keep up the great work.
Glad you enjoyed the video! I appreciate the kind words and thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing your talent and time with your viewers... great info! So many tips and techniques that make a huge difference... Hope you keep them coming.
I appreciate the kind words! Thank you for watching and I'll do my best to continue uploading new content!
Thank you for the awesome video it showed me everything i was doing wrong which was just about everything from mixing my paint and laying it down in layers
I'm glad you found it helpful and I appreciate the kind words!
Always love the vids and great ,spot on info.👌👍👏
Thank you!
Brilliant video, great tutorial, I may never use a Candy paint, but at least I know how to get the best out of it now. Thank You.
Thank you Doug! I appreciate the kind words and support very much!
Holy smokes dude. I stumbled upon your site searching for Candy2o info and could not stop watching your videos. I feel kinda like a slacker for not checking you out earlier. By far the best explanations I've seen so far. Thanks 🤘☠🎨
I'm glad to help! I appreciate the kind words!
Hi. Being a studio artist who has worked on gesso board and canvas I primarily paint using the subtractive method. I have just begun using the Createx line of Illustration and Wicked Detail colors instead of Holbein Aeroflash and Com-art. I used to shy away from automotive work because of the toxicity of the urethanes. Having learned how versatile the Createx line I am now using in the studio is, I am excited to take my art to automotive surfaces. I began watching your videos in order to learn reducing and mixing methods to adapt the Createx paints to an automotive application. I was immediately struck by your professional and down-to-earth demeanor.
I was ecstatic to learn that not only is the system adaptable to automotive applications but also that all of the skills I have developed using the subtractive method also apply. As I watched you render the Hulk's eye in nothing but candies and then the skull entirely in Smoke Black, erasing and using Windex to create texture and highlights, I realized that you paint in exactly the same way that I do on canvas and board and that I can take my methods into the automotive world. I am beyond excited. Watching you render such beautiful and realistic images is truly inspiring. I am very much looking forward to watching Part 3 and the rest of your videos.
I do have a question. When you render using just the candies do you mix using the same ratios - one to one to 10% (candy to 4030 to 4011) as you did in Part 1?
Thank you so much for giving your time to make these highly informative videos.
That's awesome and I can't thank you enough for the kind words! Yes, I mixed the candies at relatively the same ratio for part two as I did in part one, give or take. As you saw in part one, I don't use a measured mixing cup to mix my paint. I just eyeball it and adjust if I'm not happy with the spray characteristics, but about 1:1 with 10 percent reducer works great for my needs.
I have been in the automotive field as a mechanic, an auto body man and painter since I was 19. I will be 59 this year and have had no problems from the so called toxicity of urethane paints. Yes I airbrush with water base and urethane without a mask, I have also done many a car and truck full paint job with urethane, enamel and lacquer without a mask many a time, with no ill effects to date. I just Blow my nose, light a smoke, crack a 12 pack of beer and let the paint dry till the next day. California has ruined this country by pushing it's way of thinking on everyone else, if it has it's way everything will be toxic soon...like sex, reading or even picking your nose. They have homeless people living in boxes and tents and crapping on sidewalks, and they are going to tell the rest of the country what is right or wrong, good and bad...lmao I say do what you want and have fun while living life !
Thank you for all this help on candies! I'm a model builder and didn't realize about the 4030 needs to be mixed and then let it sit for 5min!!
Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment!
Whew.
I saw the first video and was yelling at my screen at all the mistakes (maybe not mistakes, but for sure amateur process). Then I saw there was a part 2 and upon watching was immediately put at ease. I've been away from airbrushing for awhile and I'm looking forward to watching some more of your stuff.
So funny about the green hulk comment.
I did t-shirts for years. I always did an under painting... Purples and browns mostly. Customers would flip out seeing a brown and purple rose when they came back. I had fun with them (I'm out of red, no refunds, sorry I'm color blind).
I'm going to make another post to ask a few questions. Primarily about candy2o.
Thanks for the vids.
Yeah, the first video was more of an introduction to candy, what it is, what it isn't, how to mix it, how to spray it properly and problems associated with dye based candies. That panel was meant to illustrate all of those points loosely. The panel was never meant to be a refined artwork. Part 2 was a little more refined and focused on layering candies (which as you know is a technique that isn't limited to candies). I plan to make a part 3 for this series as well. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
Love the vids n all the info!
Thank you so much!
Great lesson on candy2o. Thks
Thank you!
THANKS FOR THE INFO .. TO BE HONEST IM JUST LEARNING HOW TO USE AN AIR-BRUSH TO SPRAY BAITS … BUT IT ALWAYS GOOD TO SEE WHAT CAN BE DONE 😉
Thank you for watching and taking the time to leave a comment!
Mad skills,mint work 👌
Thank you!
I found that Teal + lemon gives nice green tones. And caribe blue browns when mixed with reds. Got really cool brownish/rootbeer with brandywine+caribe 1to1to make "violet" and then lemon.. I added some Blood red = nice rootbeer color! So much possibilities!!!
Great video! Hopefully much more to come!
Have a Great Day!
-Anssi
Thanks for the additional tips and the kind words! I have plans for many more videos in the future my friend!
Great video mate thanks for sharing, I really like the technique of using all candies to build up the layers rather than just using the candy as a uniform glaze. I know you covered this in Part 1 but worth mentioning that the problem with Candy2o is that once you go too dark with it, you can't lighten it back up. You can erase small areas but if you want to lighten a large area you'd need to go over it with a pigment based paint (Wicked detail or illustration) and the candy2o will bleed through it like a pig unless you seal it with 4040 bleed checker first. Don't ask me how I know that lol ;)
You are correct. Once you go too dark with Candy2o, you cannot lighten it back up; however, that is true for any dye based candy regardless of the brand or whether the product is water-based or solvent-based. In some cases it is possible to go over a candy with a pigment based paint for repair purposes. That usually leads to a lot of frustration and other problems though. I wouldn't recommend that approach unless you really know what you're doing. That's another reason I really like the water-based products. You're forced to work in light layers. That actually helps keep the artist from going too dark the majority of the time. Candies can be used for more than just a uniform glaze over the top of other pigment based paints though. That will be covered in part 3. Thanks for your support and taking the time to comment again my friend!
Thx I ordered the iwata. I got the kit I already have a braided hose, thx for the advice...I need all the help I can get with me just learning how to use an airbrush...Thx again..
Glad to help!
Wow. I thought the first one looked good and then part 2 came along
Thank you! Part 3 is in the works.
Great vid ,you recommend spray max degreaser for overspray, what do you recommend for testing the wet or cleared look before clear coat? I haven't had any real good success with any product .I want to be able to soak my work with something like they do on solvent based paints to see what a cleared product will look like before clearing
Before I answer your question I want to be perfectly clear about something first... I strongly recommend you let your artwork cure for 24 to 48 hours (possibly shorter or longer depending on the conditions where you're located). The SprayMax wax & grease remover will work for that purpose if you allow the paint to cure first. Once cured, you can hose the SprayMax directly onto your work like I recommended not to do in the video. Spread it around with a paper towel and you'll get a good indication of how it will look with a clear coat applied. Do this before the paint is cured and you will very likely remove and/or smear the paint (ask me how I know...). The stuff evaporates pretty quickly. So, you don't get a long look, but it does work. Other wax and grease removers will do the same, but some are more aggressive than others. It's always a good idea to practice on a test panel before you try it on something you're proud of. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
Great presentation on a difficult (for me) process. Question: for model painting,, when to mix Candy2o and Pearl together vs separate layers of each? I've seen it done both ways. I will be using a black sealer, Wicked Pearl Fastback Green, and thinking of adding some Candy2o Emerald to make it pop.
I appreciate the kind words! Yes, you can spray that combination either way. It's easier for an inexperienced painter to get good results by mixing the candy and pearl together. Candy can be difficult to spray evenly. If the candy is uneven it will leave tiger stripes in the final finish. When you mix the candy with a pearl it sprays more like a traditional base coat which makes applying it evenly not as critical. For ultimate depth and clarity in the finished product, there is no substitute for using the tri-coat system (base coat, pearl coat, candy) in my opinion. I would suggest practicing on an old model or something to find which method will work best for you and your application. Applying candy coats evenly should be a little easier on a model compared to a full size vehicle.
new subscriber as well as new to airbrushing. Is it possible at all to get a glossy/candy look on canvas at all? Love your work and looking forward to seeing more! Thanks
It is. You just need to use a gloss varnish or a quality clear coat over your artwork when it's finished. Thank you for the kind words and I appreciate the subscription!
Could you tell me what air compressor you use, please? Your work is amazing, I've saved up to get some nice equipment just want to make sure I get the right gear.
Hi Casey. I use a Silentaire 50-T (you can find it here amzn.to/3lTVRvF ). That particular compressor is expensive, but it will last a lifetime and it is very quiet. I've used mine for eight hours or more on a daily basis for a lot of years now with no maintenance other than changing the oil about twice a year. There are a lot of options for airbrush compressors out there. I have a video sharing my thoughts and recommendations regarding different compressors here czcams.com/video/CpHlwe5C52w/video.html
Awesome work mate. As a newcomer to airbrushing i found it extremely instructional. In part 1 you mentioned that the candies were not UV stable. As an automotive painter i tend to use solvent based paints as i have access to them. Would a 2K clear coat not seal the candy and stabilize it. I have so many questions i don;t know where to start so i hope you upload more tutorials which might cover some of them. Once again, great work.
Guyfawkes7
A good 2K clear with UV inhibitors does stabilize the candy to an extent; however, it will still fade. The aniline dye in the candy just can't compete with years of direct sunlight. Notice I used "years". Candies do fade, but it's a very slow process and they fade away gradually over the years. Thanks for watching and I appreciate the kind words!
Merry Christmas trevor and happy new year! All the best to you in the new year! I have a question....currently doing a similar deal but its smaller in scale by say 1/3 I have always had a problem spraying candy to do layouts. How far can you reduce it! Thx man!
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you as well Nick! Remember candy2o colors are aniline dye based concentrates that require a carrier (4030 or UVLS). The candies are very thin straight out of the bottle. The carrier adds viscosity to the mix, as well as reduces the intensity of the candy color when it's sprayed onto a surface. Just FYI, mixing your candy colors on the stronger side normally leads to more pronounced bleeding issues. I prefer to mix three or four parts of UVLS or 4030 with one part of the candy color. It's important to add reducer after the candy and carrier have been mixed. I generally add one or two parts reducer to the candy/carrier mix. I've reduced it as much as 1:1 in some cases (which is a very thin mix) with great results. I suppose you could reduce it more than that, but I wouldn't recommend doing so because I've never tried it.
I'd love to try Candy2o as the clear base for color shift powder sometime.
That would be a cool effect!
@@wickedartstudio maybe. Or maybe it would take away from both effects. There's only one way to find out. Unfortunately it is going to be an expensive test. Lol
@@cwwisk I don't think it would take away simply because the candy is completely transparent. I could be completely wrong though. You're right. There's only one way to find out and it will be an expensive experiment!
I actually came back to watch this video again just for the preparation of the panel... you have so many hidden gems in all your videos, really amazing work! Thank you!
Sorry, I get a bit confused with all the terms here, is urethane clear a 2k clear? Don’t you have adhesion issues spraying on top of the 2k clear? I really do like the idea of “locking in” my basecoat before using candies and possibly making a mistake. Really amazing info Trevor!
Hey Heinrich! Thanks again for the kind words my friend! Yes, when I refer to a urethane clear I'm referring to a catalyzed automotive top coat clear or a 2k clear. Sorry for the confusion. There are no adhesion issues when airbrushing over the 2k clear as long as the surface has been prepped and cleaned. Allow the 2k clear to fully cure and then scuff the surface with 600 to 800 grit sand paper (I prefer to wet sand vs. dry sand) or a red Scotch Brite pad. The idea is to remove all of the gloss. You want a nice dull finish before you begin airbrushing. The minor scratches put in the clear coat during the sanding process gives the additional paint layers a mechanical tooth for the paint to bite into and that promotes great adhesion.
A word of warning... spraying 2k clear requires some safety measures. Isocyanates are dangerous. If you are not familiar with any of this please do some research first. On the flip side, Createx UVLS gloss clear can also be used to lock in your basecoat to protect it. UVLS isn't as robust as a catalyzed clear, but it is much safer to spray. Just let it cure for about 48 hours before you begin airbrushing over the top of it.
@@wickedartstudio I don't know how you manage to reply to all the CZcams comments, thank you so much! I am familiar with 2K and the safety issues, Createx is actually the new challenge for me. I recently started using their products because I like the idea of water based paints - I just never thought water based can be durable. You have given more information and help than you'll ever know! Thank you SO much!
@@heinrichhelmbold419 Okay, good to know. I spent half of my career using urethane before switching to water-based. It was a steep learning curve initially for me. They are two completely different animals. Part of the issue was the technology wasn't quite far enough along when I started to make the switch back in 2002 or 2003. I anticipated, and probably expected water-based products to perform like urethane. They didn't then and they still don't now. The technology has come a long way in that time frame though and water-based performance has been improved substantially in my opinion. Water-based paint is just as durable but it still requires a good urethane clear coat.
I'm happy to help when I can my friend! I appreciate the kind words and the support!
One more question what paint set do you recommend. I will be painting some models. And some motorcycle helmets that will be exposed to the elements.. Thx again...
Here's a link to a playlist with some of the basic info czcams.com/video/0jyx4tP9tcQ/video.html If you have anymore questions, I'll be glad to answer them as well.
You mentioned a pencil eraser. Does that erase paint? Or do you wipe it across a surface before painting to block it out? I'm new to airbrushing
You can use different types of erasers to erase paint that has been applied to the surface. Soft erasers will remove less paint more gradually allowing for a softer look and/or almost a blend. Aggressive erasers will remove paint much easier and faster. The aggressive eraser usually removes paint with a sharp delineation. The end result is not as soft.
Nice again
Thank you!
i paint fishing lures i watch these cause this is perch pattern color an began painting different patterns.i cut stencils in tape cause i am working such small space
Very cool!
I'm new to airbrushing what air brushes do you recommend I start learning with I've purchased a iwata eclipse bottom feed and a badger patriot 105, the salesperson stated these where good brushes to learn with..Thx...
Both of those are good brushes. Personally, I prefer Iwata and I use the Eclipse gravity feed brush the most. I prefer the gravity feed over the siphon feed simply because it's easier to clean and it has a smaller needle and nozzle. You might want to check out my Airbrush Tutorial: Which Airbrush video here czcams.com/video/0jyx4tP9tcQ/video.html Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
What did you use to clear coat this? Amazing work BTW
I use an automotive urethane clear coat. I appreciate the compliment!
after looking at the comments I did not see anyone ask about the panel or surface you used, could you tell me what surface that your painting on?
The panel in this video was painted on a piece of Masonite with the white coating on one side.
Thanks for the videos! The only thing i can't understand how it is possibly to use eraser to remove paint. Does this paint dry in a trice, doesn't it?
The paint dries relatively quickly, especially when air is used to speed up the process. However, just because it is dry to the touch doesn't mean it's fully cured. That's the difference. Createx paint can be easily erased immediately after spraying it. It will become harder and harder to erase the longer you wait. So, it is generally very easy to erase within 10 to 15 minutes of applying it. It becomes increasingly more difficult to remove after that depending on how much time has passed. Once the paint is fully cured (anywhere from 12 to 48 hours depending on your conditions), it's very difficult to remove with an eraser. Does that make sense?
@@wickedartstudio thank you for replying! love your channel:)
Thank you! I appreciate that very much!
Color composition is the key here! Color interprétation too! You need to know the color theory a bit. Great channel by the way!
Agreed. A very basic knowledge of color theory is greatly beneficial. I appreciate the compliment, thank you!
@@wickedartstudio I understand why you put yellow after blue and green after.
@@Brazpastrop I was relatively certain you understood that based on your first comment.
@@wickedartstudio I learned some basics as a student in a CÉGEP in the province of Québec. I've studied to be a lighting desinger and a stage technician. Sorry for the bad english, je parle français le français de la Belle Province ! So I have some basics knowledge about color theory and lighting !
@@Brazpastrop Your English is good enough that we can understand each other my friend. Thank you for watching and taking the time to leave your comments!
Do you guys have a chameleon color? If so, where can i get it? Is there a process with your line?
I'm not affiliated with Createx, I only use their products.
Will a semi gloss clear coat hurt the finish of a Candy color? I looking to protect my statue but don't want a high gloss. Help! lol
I'm not sure what you mean by "hurt". It won't hurt the candy as far as a bad chemical reaction or anything. The only negative I can think of as far as using a semi gloss over candy is the candy may not appear as deep and vibrant compared to a top coat with a high gloss.
@@wickedartstudio thanks, yes thats what i meant.. i dont want to lose the look it has now but i really need to clear it for protection. do you think it would be better to high gloss it and than later after cured do a semi gloss? would that be better? Just brainstorming...lol
That shouldn't make any difference. You're just adding an extra step and materials only to cover it again with a semi gloss. I've personally never cleared anything I've done in candies with a semi gloss clear. So, it might be fine. Logically, I can see how it might affect the candies negatively as far as depth, clarity and vibrancy go. I could be completely wrong though... Safe bet would be to shoot a small test piece first. Then you'll know exactly what you're going to get before you commit to anything on the statue itself.
Hello amigo consulta si ya no esta ese color blanco metallico porque color se podra reemplazar si ahora esta la linea wicked justamente eso me pasa cuando pinto candy y uso blanco uno se sangra el color y ocupo 4040 bleed cheker pero no me gusta darucha luz con blanco porque apastela mucho la obra estaba revisando la carta de createx colors y no esta ya el blanco metallico tu comentaa en este video que color podria ser en linea wicked?
Agora você pode encontrar as cores metálicas na linha Wicked de produtos Createx. W360 é um branco metálico fino e W361 é um branco metálico grosso. wickedairbrushcolors.com/pearl-and-metallic
Quick question can this work on surfboards ?
Yes it can!
What is a helix tool. and what is it used for?
It's an electronic, or battery powered eraser. Erasers are generally used in a subtractive method of painting for removing paint to add highlights and/or create texture. This method also prevents the color shift commonly encountered when an artist sprays white paint over darker colors for the same purpose.
Igual preferiria usar candie base solvente
Você pode usar à base de solvente ou à base de água. Os mesmos princípios se aplicam.
can these be only be applied on top of a metal surface? or can I use them on top of simple acrylic paints?
They can be applied to any surface that paint will stick to. And yes, you can absolutely apply them over simple acrylic paint.
@@wickedartstudio are they the same as acrylic inks? cause they seem the same for me, as well as having the same effects, I may be wrong tho
@@royalecrafts6252 I have no real experience with acrylic ink. I can tell you the candy2o line is acrylic based (as are all of the Createx products). So, they are similar. The big difference is how the colors are created. Acrylic ink colors are created with pigment. Candy2o colors are dye based.
@@wickedartstudio I guess putting these candies over simple acrylics will look too dull to take advantage of the dye, a metallic / pearlescent / iridescent acrylic base will do a better job, at least that's the theory haha
@@royalecrafts6252 I would disagree to an extent. It really depends on what you're trying to achieve. I agree the effect is more dramatic over a metallic, pearl, etc., but candies can also be used to intensify plain colors as well.
Very cool work and job man!! Hmmm....I'm old and nearing the end now and want to create a collage wall in a room that will house my family's memories. It's been 30+ years since I fired up my old, meh, not so good Paasche VL 0.5 and 0.3 guns, but they are still in working order. I'm on a tight, fixed income so I want to spend each $ as wisely as possible. So, I want to paint on WOOD Panels of different sizes to gain the collage effect on the Urn/memorial wall. After toooooo many hours studying the process I was hoping you could give me some help on the preparation of an UNPRIMED wood panel so I can paint it with Createx Candy2/Wicked transparents. At this time I have panel prep by airbrush spraying the Golden GAC 100 to seal the wood (preventing SID) mixed with Golden Airbrush Medium to control viscosity, then apply several thin coats of the Golden Gesso. Now, will that system work with the Createx Candies and Wicked paints? What would you do to prepare a wood panel for a Createx airbrush project? Thanks for your time, efforts to help educate us, and I look forward to your reply....peace
I appreciate the kind words my friend! I've never actually used Createx over Golden products. So, I can't answer that specific question definitively. I can't imagine you'd experience any issues with the Golden base layers though. I've used Createx products over a number of other different products and substrates and have yet to experience an adverse reaction. To be safe, I'd experiment on a small piece of test wood prepped the same way followed by whatever Createx top coats you plan to use on the real project.
If I was creating a similar project, I'd likely try coating the wood with Createx UVLS clear. You can get UVLS in a gloss, matte and satin finish. The gloss has the best adhesive properties when it comes to using it as a primer. The UVLS is an excellent wood primer that protects without raising the grain. It also prevents underlying oil and tannin bleed-through. That information came directly from the UVLS Technical Data Sheet. I've not used UVLS on wood yet. So, I can't verify whether those statements are accurate or not. I have used UVLS for a number of other things (including as a primer over bare metal) and I've had fantastic results! I hope that helps.
@@wickedartstudio Thanks for the reply brother....I have learned so much from your 2 part video about Candy2o (way...way back in the day...~40years...we had to use toxic solvent based paints to gain the Candy effect....so, I never had the opportunity to give them a shot....pun intended...lol...anyway) I've decided to eliminate the Gesso for now and go with the Createx AutoBourne Sealer over a base sealer of their 4050. AB sealer can be colorkeyed for a controlled background layer and then hit with the 4050 as a carrier for whatever I decide to use (metallic, pearls, etc.) as the base layer for the Candy2o application...cool....that's a big $$ savings to gain a ton of Application $$$ well spent. Thanks for the link to the Createx TDS's as they are required to understand application requirements. I'm subed in, so I'll be watching and I'll let you know the results of the testing to follow. May the "Big Airbrush" in the heavens spray you with luck and blessings.....peace
@@markschuyler1824 I'm glad to help when I can my friend! I used solvent based systems as well for about fifteen years before I switched to the Createx water-based system. There are pros and cons to both, but the water-based technology continues to improve and close the gap. I'm sure you're aware based on your past experience and your "that's a big $$ savings to gain a ton of application $$$ well spent" comment, but I'll say it anyway just to be sure... You'll definitely want to color key AutoBorne sealer to suit the top coats, especially if you plan to use metallic or pearl. Metallic and pearlized colors in the water-based world are more translucent than their solvent based cousins. I also recommend mixing a little (30 to 40 percent per volume) of the UVLS into your metallic and/or pearl spray mixture. UVLS has a higher solids content which allows the metallic and/or pearl to orient and lay flatter. Adding UVLS normally requires an additional coat or two for full coverage, but the finish is worth it! Also, I now prefer using UVLS as a carrier for candy2o rather than the 4030 I talk about in the videos. The ratio and procedure are the same, just substitute UVLS for 4030.
Hi again...I think I'm getting closer to my selected medium to work from. The wood panels, sealed with 4050 clear, then the Autoborne primer followed by a metallic/pearl base coat and followed by another round of 4050 before graphic paint application. Does that correct? Also, do you have a "Cleaner" you could recommend to wipe down the 4050 clear surface between paint applications and 4040 bleed checker and the final clear topcoat? I know it has to be a solvent based cleaner so it won't reactive the painted underlayers. The Createx automotive videos used PPG SX 394 but I find that difficult to retail purchase....any ideas are greatly appreciated. Finally, you are a rare breed and highly appreciated here. Thanks again.....peace
@@wickedartstudio
@@markschuyler1824 Yep. Your plan is the same way I would attack it. And yes, PPG doesn't sell their products online. So unless you have a local jobber they are difficult to get. I've been using SprayMax wax and grease remover for quite a few years with good results (you can find it here amzn.to/3l6NVXh ). You can use any solvent based wax and grease remover for cleaning purposes though (mineral spirits also works well). The key is just be sure the paint is cured before using whatever cleaner you decide to use. I would recommend allowing it to dry overnight prior to cleaning and don't soak your project down or apply too much pressure while wiping. The water-based paints are not as resilient compared to solvent based systems. That's why I prefer the aerosol SprayMax. I can spray a small amount onto a paper towel to wipe down my work.
So the eraser is for overspray ?
No. A tack rag and wax and grease remover are used to eliminate overspray. I use erasers to remove paint in order to reestablish highlights.
Jack, I don't see the other comment with a question that you posted. I got an email with your comment, but for some reason it's not showing up on CZcams. Your comment read; "Wicked Art Airbrush Studio thanks for the tutorial I really enjoy the look of the candy 2o ,Do theese paints give the same effect on canvas?". The answer is yes. The candies will have the same effect on a canvas. There is one thing to be aware of before using candies on canvas though... Canvas generally has a lot of texture. If you intend to spray large areas on a canvas with candies you'll run into the same issue I talked about in the video with peaks and valleys. The valleys in the canvas texture will capture a lot of overspray which will give the candy a mottled look. Due to the depth of the texture in the canvas, I don't believe you would be able to wipe the overspray away with a tack rag. To counteract this effect I would suggest purchasing a very smooth canvas, or take steps to smooth a textured canvas out yourself prior to painting on it. I will be creating a video showing the process I use to get rid of texture in a canvas in the near future. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
Wicked Art Airbrush Studio thanks for taking the time going in depth with color theory and how theese paints behave ,saved me lots of time and a blown head gasket!
I'm glad to help! Thank you!
what did you clear with?
House of Kolor UC35
@@wickedartstudio yikes.. Just looked up the price..$100 for clear, activator and reducer!!!! There a cheaper alternative?.. haha
@@hobbylyfe4716 There are cheaper alternatives available out there, but I have no first hand experience with anything other then HOK and PPG when it comes to clear coat.
Part 2 no better with the loud music. but full of info once you see him talk and UN-mute the sound again. I'd rather just hear the airbrush hiss than the loud crappy music. Glad they didn't play music over the intercom in school when the teacher stopped talking, I would never have learned a thing.. and come home with a killer headache to boot.
Thanks again.
Great vid just dont care for that heart beat sound in background
Thanks and sorry... I do my best to put out good content, but sometimes I miss.