Do-It-Yourself Wooden Gazebo (Part 2. Wooden Frame).

Do-It-Yourself Wooden Gazebo (Part 2. Wooden Frame).
Hello.
Please do not discuss the selected design and structure of the wooden gazebo, nor compare them with other types of structures from other bloggers.
Let me remind you once again that the construction of the gazebo was carried out exclusively with our own hands and, for convenience, was divided into component stages and considerably extended over time, but this is the way.
Go.
Two layers of roofing material are laid on the previously cast columnar foundation as waterproofing for the wooden pillars of the gazebo.
Then, using 60x10mm expansion anchor dowels, two pieces of steel angle 150 mm long, with a flange of approximately 5 cm, are attached to the foundation.
Next, the wooden gazebo is screwed to the steel foundation foundations using M6 steel bolts.
In fact, at the attachment point we get a hinge joint!
It is movable and inferior to the more classic pinching of the pillars of a wooden gazebo, but is much more repairable.
If desired, such a pole can be replaced or its design changed without much difficulty.
The fastening of the wooden gazebo to the foundation is made of hardware of modest sections, but there are no large loads here.
In fact, the fasteners should keep the frame of the wooden gazebo from being torn off by the wind and that’s all.
There are no lateral or torsional loads here, that’s why it’s a hinge.
All the pillars, as well as all the other wooden elements of the gazebo, were simply brushed with fire, and were not covered with anything else.
You can watch how to brush wood with your own hands in a separate video, it is on the channel.
The algorithm for assembling this wooden gazebo frame is as follows, but it is not the only possible or correct one.
First, vertical posts about 3 meters high are installed from pine beams (or boards) 150x50 mm and are temporarily fixed in both planes with jibs.
Next, facade mauerlats are nailed from boards of the same section, on which the rafters will subsequently rest.
The rafters are also made from 150x50 mm boards 4.5 m long.
All jibs and sheathing are made of boards with a section of 100x50 mm.
The pitch of the sheathing was chosen taking into account the arrangement of the future roof.
For the sake of the design of the wooden gazebo, its jibs do not cut into the pillars and the top frame.
If you want to learn how to properly embed jibs, you can watch a video about a frame house, and here...
The lack of rigidity is compensated by good fastening of the jibs to the mauerlat and rafters using 90x3.5 mm nails.
The reliable connection of powerful jibs with the Mauerlat forms a semblance of trusses and adds stability to the suspended structure.
Let me remind you that whether it is a wooden gazebo or another frame-type building with your own hands, all the joints of the boards are plentifully punched with nails: at least 7 nails for each joint.
Just make sure that the wood does not split, but try to hammer at least 5 nails into each small joint.
Only after the frame of the wooden gazebo has been completely assembled can the temporary supports be dismantled.
It would not be superfluous to add a vertical pine beam with a section of 50x50 mm between the double boards of each post.
Thus, the cross-section of the pillar in plan will be in the form of an I-beam, and in our case, this solution significantly added stability to the wooden gazebo.
After all, all the wood used has natural moisture and it twists a lot, but there is no other wood.
Also, the rigidity of a wooden structure can be increased by using jibs of maximum length or at least reducing the height of the gazebo.
But in our case, the choice of the standard size of wooden structures was determined by the use of lumber of standard lengths of 6 and 4.5 m with a minimum number of trims.
An estimate for materials is attached.
Let me remind you that the dimensions of the gazebo along the outer edges of the pillars are 3.2 m by 9.2 m.
The dimensions of the proposed pitched roof are approximately 4.5 m by 10.5 m.
Am I satisfied with the rigidity of the resulting wooden gazebo? - Probably not.
Would I make changes to the design if I were building a new gazebo? - Of course yes.
Is it worth remodeling an existing wooden gazebo structure? - Definitely not.
Thank you for attention!

[@Ж-Р]

Здравствуйте, Тема Видео "Беседка из Дерева Своими Руками (Часть 2. Деревянный Каркас).". Прошу Не Спамить! Благодарю Всех, Кого Не Забанил!

[@victorevgrafoff407]

Круто и выглядит приятно. Но таким лентяем, как я, наверное проще металлическую сделать. Эх я. Но спасибо за информацию.

[@Ж-Р]

Благодарю.

[@user-if4ds5gt4f]

Гениально! Положить гидроизоляцию на бетон и поставить столбы на железяки))

[@Ж-Р]

А что смущает?

[@user-if4ds5gt4f]

@@Ж-Р а смысл гидроизоляции? От чего влагу отсекаем? На металле, так же как и на бетоне будет конденсат, от которого дерево будет мокнуть и гнить.

[@Ж-Р]

Влагу отсекаем от постоянно влажного грунта. Конденсат на металле если и появится при определенных погодных условиях (вернее при их изменении), то это будет краткосрочное явление и за пару часов он высыхает полностью. По Вашей логике гвозди тоже нельзя забивать в доски?

[@user-fn1lx2bo8s]

Хороший навес получился. Дерево чем покроете?

[@Ж-Р]

Больше ничем.