🔴 ProsKit SS-331 Desoldering Station Improvements - No.858
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- čas přidán 1. 07. 2024
- ProsKit SS-331 Desoldering Station Improvements
I do some modifications to my ProsKit SS-331 Desoldering Station to address some of the minor points that I wasn't completely happy with.
I change the fan to a quieter one.
I add a power switch to the front panel of the ProsKit SS-331 Desoldering Station.
I improve the case ventilation.
0:00 - Intro.
0:10 - Replacing the fan on the ProsKit SS-331
2:20 - Comparing the original and replacement fan.
3:52 - Adding a power switch to the front panel of the ProsKit SS-331.
5:18 - Improving the ventilation of the ProsKit SS-331.
6:15 - Looking at the ProsKit SS-331 power supply, ZD-P150, 18V 12A.
7:11 - Doing the wiring.
11:11 - Installing the quieter fan for the ProsKit SS-331.
14:08 - Re-assembling the ProsKit SS-331.
16:40 - Testing new fan - oops thats not right.
16:55 - Testing new fan - thats better.
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I had to laugh when you first powered up the new improved quieter fan! Thanks for leaving that bit in. Of course I've never assembled anything with wires rubbing on the fan! I have always used the "Western Union" splice or a close approximation, you just have to be sure to wrap the ends down tight so they don't poke through the heat shrink. As others have suggested, I would cut a fan-size hole and bolt on a metal grill, but the plastic case is the limiting factor for noise.
I have the same sucker but in a different housing (zd915) and I strongly advise You to install a 5 amps step down converter to provide 12v instead of 18 to the fan. My sucker runs the pump and the fan on the same power rail and it relies on a series of resistors combined with the load of the pump to drag it down to 12v from 18.
Now with the converter I run 13v (12,5 at the pump), it became nice and quiet and the fan is happy, the pump is snappy.
I shot the warranty but that´s worth it to my nerves. Plus: the converter mounts right into the box where the resistors were, very tidy.
Really enjoyed this video - Thx
Great job. Very nice. Thanks for a very well done video. It is appreciated.
Thanks
Thank you so much for giving your video on the SS-331H . After I watched your video I took my new one apart that just came in the mail today without testing it first . My idea was to drill a rectangular shape of holes into the left hand side of the case where the switching power supply is in order to allow fresh air to cool where it needs it most . Second thing I done was to remove the fan after marking the edge on the fan case with masking tape so I knew where to drill out some of the holes on the back cover to improve air flow exhausting heat . The fan runs very quiet and has a nice stream of air circulation through the entire case now .
And of coarse I replaced the fan same as it came new in the box after rear exhaust holes were drilled out larger . Thanks
Thank you! You have renewed my appreciation for my all-in-one Aoyue 968A+. I actually thought the ProKit stations were better units, judging from the modern and sleek case, but you proved me wrong. The manufacturer merely shoved a cheap, off-the-shelf, switch mode power supply into a case with a fan to keep it cool, which is ill-suited for high wattage applications. Moreover, the ABS plastic case is prone to molten scuffs, considering how easy it is to accidentally swipe against it with with a hot soldering tip. I guess the industrial design and not the internals soaked up most the R&D budget.
My Aoyue 968A+ internals features a linear power supply tapping 24V to the soldering handle, 120/220V to the hot air wand and air pump, and 5V to the controllers. There's no need for a fan to keep it cool. Although it doesn't come with a desoldering gun, if you're clever enough, you can purchase one sold as a spare for one of their higher end stations. My only gripe with the unit is it's old style soldering iron, which is not as responsive as the newer T12 cartridge style ones found in the higher priced soldering stations.
Very good review and mod
Thanks
cut out the hole for fan and put in a grille. those holes are too small they create more turbulence and noise.
Came to say this. Done it a few times on computer cases, as they usually have stupidly small holes. Makes a huge difference to airflow and noise is reduced.
nice mod
👍
Try making to holes bigger where the fan exits as the new fan did not make that much noise when you tested it on the bench. Better still remove the holes all together and use a wire fan grill.
Cheers Dave. (speed control is fine but the fan may not start after some time )
The best place to place the cooling fan is on the power supply where it is really needed. Where it is now it is completely useless. And if you want a silent fan that works when needed, just connect it to the vacuum pump. In this way, at the same time you unsolder and cool down the power supply unit. Any noise from the fan is covered by that of the pump. The air extracted from the power supply finds its way out by itself thanks to the vortices caused by the blades of the fans cooling the whole.
So I modified my 331H and I have to say it works great
The idea of an exhaust fan is not completely useless because it lowers the ambient temperature inside the case. But before doing any fan upgrades, you should first measure if there is an overheating problem.
@@hbgl8889 Well, the ZD 985 desoldering station does not have a fan but has the same power supply unit. The ProsKit SS 331H is nothing more than a ZD 8915. From these premises and imagining that the only part that produces heat and which justifies the presence of a fan is the heat of the PSU, I inserted the fan on this making it activate by the gun when it is in operation. Now the question is: the winding is necessary or not? The case of the ZD 985 is smaller than that of the SS331H and yet the fan does not exist and there is more stagnation of air, with my system I solved everything.
Did you check to see if the Vacuum driver/transistor can handle the extra load?
@@Biribeau PS, even under no load conditions, the SMPS will still get warm, wireing to the pump sounded good, but on second thoughts, cooling takes time, the quick trigger press's are not going to be effective imo and will shorten its life.
@@engjds The ZD 985 desoldering station does not have a cooling fan and has a much smaller internal space than for example the ZD 915 and the ZD 8915 (Pro's kit 331H). They all have the same PSU and the same vacuum pump . In a small space there is less air circulation and consequently less heat dissipation. So why build a soldering station without a fan? The PSU more than the vacuum pump is subject to heating and this applies to all models. By mounting a fan on the PSU and operating it for the duration of the desoldering, the air is forced to circulate inside the case, cooling the pump, which heats little, and pushing it into the PSU causing the air inside to change. This system works on great on all my desoldering stations and has the great advantage of having eliminated the annoying noise of the Fan.
The fans that I mounted on them have a diameter of 6 cm, a height of 2 and are of the dual bearing type. So they have a good air flow. I recommend it.
For the fan it is enough on the inverter max 7V, It is necessary to make a large hole and put a metal grid. I have it that way and I can't hear the fan at all.
I'd mount the fan on rubber with the nut inside, and maybe a simple opamp speed control ?
What a bodge.... well done lol.
I've had the odd replacement switch fail.
i take apart the old switch and fix it instead.
Can't even trust new switches!!.
I like your modifications, I think I'll do the same to mine. That original fan sure was hopping around and making a racket on the bench.
For even quieter fans, have you seen or experimented with those fans that have the toothed or feathered trailing edges ?
They are supposed to be much more quiet than regular fans. Sorry I can't remember the brand at the moment.
Sweet. Video mate and gives me an idea. What tools do you use is it all pro skit ? Also where do you buy them ?
I have a large mixture of different equipment
Hi! Could you please confirm if sensor is PTC thermistor or Thermocouple?? Thanks in advance
Ive been using my zd915 for a couple years. Definitely got my moneys worth.
I wanted to grab a heating element for if/when mine goes out but all that available is the parts for the proskit new version.
I wanted to order the whole new priskit gun but its 7 pin and the zd915 is 6 pin.
Any idea what the extra pin is for?
Thanks
Sleep mode?
That will be to operate the flux capacitor, it only activates when 60v is reached on the flange flutterer.
I wouldn’t worry about fan interference since I can always mount externally and throw a grille on it. Heck, even if mine does fit inside I would cut a hole and use a metal fan grille so that it flows more air and can run slower/quieter.
Was thinking the same, BUT you try buying a grill that doesnt protrude out of the case, will look ugly on this plastic unit.
@@engjds the traditional wire grille always looks fine, even on completely exposed fans. You know the ones: Chromed with concentric rings plus two angled V-shaped pieces that hold the rings and form loops at the end for four screws.
@@emmettturner9452 Beauty is in the eye of the beholder I guess :), been looking at some crazy mods for this including delayed-off vacuum and apparently the vacuum pump rated at 24v is only running at 18v which can be tweeked in the SMPS, its on EEVblog.
@@engjds I wouldn’t mind the entire fan being mounted outside the case. ;)
@@emmettturner9452 LOL, I would be the same, but after getting my room geared up with fancy new DSO and PSU's, heath robinson designs would not match, maybe I am getting soft in my old age, will be looking at soft fabrics and cushions next!
Where's the source of incoming air? I don't see any but might have missed them. For optimum cooling, I'd think you need holes in the bottom/front of the case so it passes over the power supply and exits the back. I would also plug up any of the back holes that are outside the perimeter of the fan.
I think its relying on the drilled back panel, you would think they would route the vacuum input drectly to the outside instead of dragging warm air through it.
Hi Scott, do you have a video on the 7808 you fixed it with? Great video by the way also 🤙🏼🇦🇺
If it wasn’t shown in this video, then I don’t have it recorded.
@@TheDefpom no wasn’t showed, but I’d like to see you do it.. as many others would too, I’m guessing, good job though 🤙🏼🇦🇺
Hello sir
I have the old model blue one
Im having problems reaching the temperature on the screen
There are 2 potentiometer in the main board
Are these for calibration?
Have you tried them
I wouldn’t be adjusting it, sounds like it needs a new heating element.
Can you push that cleaning wire till to the metal spring?
Does it also beep every 5 minutes while off?
The cleaning rod passes right through, no beeping when it’s idle.
@@TheDefpom mine goes in max 6,5 cm. Think, there is something wrong in the heating element.
It is not only the size of the fan that defines air volume. The depth of the new fan looks to be less than the original fan. That would probably effect the static pressure of the new fan. You need to measure the air flow at the outlet to know if it is better or worse.
Yeah, sounds good, but how many people have that type of vane airflow meter hanging around the workshop, not many is my guess, then you have problems of coupling it to the outlet, nope, lets face it, not even the OEM designers measured this.
I like the front switch idea but I think just putting in shock mounts for the factory fan would be better. I don't see the point of extra airflow but, just invites more creepy crawlies to live inside :\
Good luck to the creepy crawleys living in a windy warm environment, surely there are better places to find a home?
hello i bought today i wanted to ask how does automatic sleep work, thank you
After a period of time (was about 5 min I think) it drops down to 200 degress C until you wake it up by pressing the vacuum trigger.
@@TheDefpom As we are aiming for a sharp pulse of vacuum, I think it might be better to overdrive the pump by say a 1/3 extra voltage above 24V @ 32V, should be good for the 1 second its used per joint. PS you can buy 12V miniture vacuum solonoids, that MAY even fit inside that handpiece.
Do you prefer this station over the other desoldering guns you have access to?
Yes, this is a much better unit compared to the other ones I have reviewed so far.
@@TheDefpom Thanks for your response! By the way: Really enjoy your repair videos! Keep it up!
Best budget one from my searching, Hakkos good but he prices are insane.
I've got a ZD915, which I believe is basically the same thing as yours but with different branding. In mine, the fan is 12V, but was actually running at closer to 20V as it shares the voltage with the pump, iirc. I replaced the fan with an equally sized one, but less noisy and hooked it up through a 12V regulator. The old one had become more and more noisy over time, probably due to running at a too high voltage. My station is nice and quiet now but still pushes an adequate amount of air out the back.
Here's where I got the idea: czcams.com/video/2zr097eMff0/video.html
I dont like original tips, they have large gaps between tip and heater (cone and 90 degrees angle are mated). And for desoldering from large polygons I made my own. In general, the factory did strange thing that it did not do a seal at the edge of heater. The solder trap implemented strangely, it blocs the suction hole, therebly creating resistance to flow.
Did you see some of the mods on the eev forum
Nope
I did this mod but ran the fan at 7v, it's practically silent and still flows more air than the original fan.
Yes I actually revisited this and installed an 8V regulator to run the fan, it is even better
Hook the wires together; urrghh! I was always taught to use the "Western Union" Splice, never hooks. Of course I cam up in the mid-late 70's. I guess the "Western Union" splice was all the craze back then.
At least I had a good laugh the first time you powered it up after "quieting it down". First video today that entertained me. lol Anyway, I enjoyed your improvement of the device.
Have you faced clogging issues with your SS-331?
Mine clogs every time I use it..
Mines been fine, only a couple of minor clogs, pushing the cleaner through once fixed it each time.
@@TheDefpom Lucky you!
Cleaner NEVER works for me. I'll have to pull out my soldering iron to heat up the other end of the heating element to get it up to temperature and then i can use the cleaner to push the solder out....
@@decee1157 try running it hotter, it could be the solder is cooling down before leaving the tube.
I also noticed that solder from the collection chamber can drop onto the end of the tube and re-melt slightly causing it to block it right at the end.
The temperature is set at 370 ° C. I clean regularly, everything is fine.
@@TheDefpom Currently im running it at 370c. Sadly didn't fix anything.
Imo going higher than 370c shouldn't be a solution.
To reduce any fan noise you should separate fan from the case by mounting it on some sort of rubber spacers without any hard material connecting them both together. Good idea, poor job
I used what I had on hand, I have since got some proper rubber fan mounts which are used instead of bolts.
@@TheDefpom There's these little nibs that you stretch to get through the holes and they're actually laughably cheap. I bought a bag of 100 for a couple euros. I've since become obsessed with replacing fan screws with these.
You can buy fans with integrated rubber mounts and specials notched blades to lower noise.
I have the exact same kit. I really do enjoy it and it works well. On page 4, instruction number five states that the appliance is not intended for use by young children. I guess it’s OK for young children to build them in Chinese sweatshops but not to use them lol. I literally just watched a documentary about sweat shops in China and around the world when it comes to cell phone production.
Sorry but if you make a power switch with only one pole????
anytime use an 2 pole switch, thats save.
I don't think there'd be enough space for that in the spot they chose. A switch that had two poles would have them too close together, which is more dangerous than having only live switched. The case is plastic, so there's no risk of that.
Can anyone explain why indeed two pole switching in a earthed system is better? is it just a question of redundancy that if one pole fails you have another that may not fail at the same time?