Boating Magazine's Jim Hendricks walks you through creating the rope-to-chain splice that allows an electric windlass to feed the rope and chain in and out of an anchor locker.
Very simple and concise instructions. I just installed a windlass in my boat and I was worried about this part of the install but I tried the back splice with your instructions and got it first time. Even the missus was impressed.
Very handy video! Just last night in very windy and dark conditions the anchor splice refused to feed past the gypsy wheel of the windlass. The creek was very dark, 100 feet wide and the wind was blowing us into the submerged branches and limbs at the bank very quickly. This is the first time we ever had any trouble pulling the anchor up and I'm glad my young friend got on the bow while I kept us from fouling the prop. I will be trying your splice today!
Good info ... with one suggestion I might make. As in all three strand rope splices it's important to return any twist that has been lost in the strands by twisting them two or three times everytime you feed them around the chain or within standing rope. This increases strength and, gosh darn it, it just looks better. Thanks for the informative videos.
Good video but one thing I do different is I do not terminate all three strands at the same time. After 4 passes, drop one line, after 5 passes drop another line and then pass the remaining line through one last time. This technique tapers the splice and runs the stress throughout the entire line.
I agree with you. That is the correct way, acording to the rigging and splicing manual, i learned when i was in the USCoast Guard, and later, right now, i work doing splicing for boaters around my place in Puertio Rico, La Parguera.
Useful to get the concept across to a beginner like me. It might have been helpful to have framed this against a less distracting background with slower hand motions and on a bench instead of in mid-air. Good job though, by an obvious master.
Fantastic vid, anything with rope learning is great, now one step further, How strong is it, cause I can use that set up out of water, and can you use 2-3 links and would it be stronger?
This is the best chain splice I have seen, there are many chain splices that are totally different from one another, I saw one in which only two strand goes through the chain, and is too complicated.
Hi Jim could you give a tip what type of knot to tie to a 5 gallon bucket handle. The purpose to get water from a fishing party boat. approximately 10 to 15 feet from rail.
Most of the information in the video is good in spite of his apparent lack of knowledge of correct terminology. It is not called weaving and it is not called braiding--it is called splicing. Each time a strand is passed under another strand it is called a tuck; a splice is the completed operation. On a synthetic rope (it becomes a line when it comes aboard a boat) each strand should have at least 5 tucks and 7 are recommended for anchor rodes. Tucking one strand 5 times, the next strand 6 times, and the last strand 7 times (or 7, 8, and 9 times respectively) tapers the splice and should allow it to run through a windlass more easily (it also spreads the strain more evenly over a longer section of the line). For manila rope 3 tucks is usually sufficient. In the video he uses a hollow fid, a marlin spike is different. Fids can make splicing easier, especially for hard rope. The "loop" at the end of a line is called an eye and is created by an eye splice. A thimble is the tear-drop shaped metal insert in some eye splices creating a thimble-eye. A back splice secures the end of a line as a neat seaman-like termination. For splices I recommend leaving the tails of the strands long (at least an inch) until the line has been stressed because the tucks tend to get pulled in when the line is heavily loaded (like when anchored in a big blow and you don't want the splice to fail). I do not recommend melting the ends of the strands after completing a splice. As he indicated the heat can weaken the standing part of the line. In addition, the melted blob can have sharp edges that are hard on hands when handling the line. I always leave the tails loose. For the first tuck keep the strand twisted but for subsequent tucks the strands can be untwisted so the yarns are parallel to each other.
Sadly you have to glib patter of a man who’s done it a thousand times... The phrase, “just through here” defines nothing and there is no close up to see which one of the strands goes under the other stand and which in fact is the “other” strand. Have a think about how you explain it next time...
Very simple and concise instructions. I just installed a windlass in my boat and I was worried about this part of the install but I tried the back splice with your instructions and got it first time. Even the missus was impressed.
Very handy video! Just last night in very windy and dark conditions the anchor splice refused to feed past the gypsy wheel of the windlass. The creek was very dark, 100 feet wide and the wind was blowing us into the submerged branches and limbs at the bank very quickly. This is the first time we ever had any trouble pulling the anchor up and I'm glad my young friend got on the bow while I kept us from fouling the prop. I will be trying your splice today!
Good info ... with one suggestion I might make. As in all three strand rope splices it's important to return any twist that has been lost in the strands by twisting them two or three times everytime you feed them around the chain or within standing rope. This increases strength and, gosh darn it, it just looks better. Thanks for the informative videos.
Good video but one thing I do different is I do not terminate all three strands at the same time. After 4 passes, drop one line, after 5 passes drop another line and then pass the remaining line through one last time. This technique tapers the splice and runs the stress throughout the entire line.
I agree with you. That is the correct way, acording to the rigging and splicing manual, i learned when i was in the USCoast Guard, and later, right now, i work doing splicing for boaters around my place in Puertio Rico, La Parguera.
Very easy to follow. 10/10
Useful to get the concept across to a beginner like me. It might have been helpful to have framed this against a less distracting background with slower hand motions and on a bench instead of in mid-air. Good job though, by an obvious master.
very well explained many thanks
Decent looking splice but it would work and look nicer if you tapered the splice back it will be stronger and look better
very helpful video thank you
Very useful thank you!!!
Fantastic vid, anything with rope learning is great, now one step further, How strong is it, cause I can use that set up out of water, and can you use 2-3 links and would it be stronger?
This is the best chain splice I have seen, there are many chain splices that are totally different from one another, I saw one in which only two strand goes through the chain, and is too complicated.
Hi Jim could you give a tip what type of knot to tie to a 5 gallon bucket handle. The purpose to get water from a fishing party boat. approximately 10 to 15 feet from rail.
Might I suggest a round turn and two half hitches...very simple multi use knot..Cheers.
Very difficult to see what you were doing as your hands covered the actual splicing. You removed your hands only after completing the splice.
I think the tool you showed us was a fid, not a marlin spike.
Correct. It's called a Swedish fid for obvious reasons. Ideal for feeding the rope through and maintaining twist at the same time.
It was a Swedish fid...hollow.
Most of the information in the video is good in spite of his apparent lack of knowledge of correct terminology. It is not called weaving and it is not called braiding--it is called splicing. Each time a strand is passed under another strand it is called a tuck; a splice is the completed operation. On a synthetic rope (it becomes a line when it comes aboard a boat) each strand should have at least 5 tucks and 7 are recommended for anchor rodes. Tucking one strand 5 times, the next strand 6 times, and the last strand 7 times (or 7, 8, and 9 times respectively) tapers the splice and should allow it to run through a windlass more easily (it also spreads the strain more evenly over a longer section of the line). For manila rope 3 tucks is usually sufficient. In the video he uses a hollow fid, a marlin spike is different. Fids can make splicing easier, especially for hard rope. The "loop" at the end of a line is called an eye and is created by an eye splice. A thimble is the tear-drop shaped metal insert in some eye splices creating a thimble-eye. A back splice secures the end of a line as a neat seaman-like termination. For splices I recommend leaving the tails of the strands long (at least an inch) until the line has been stressed because the tucks tend to get pulled in when the line is heavily loaded (like when anchored in a big blow and you don't want the splice to fail). I do not recommend melting the ends of the strands after completing a splice. As he indicated the heat can weaken the standing part of the line. In addition, the melted blob can have sharp edges that are hard on hands when handling the line. I always leave the tails loose. For the first tuck keep the strand twisted but for subsequent tucks the strands can be untwisted so the yarns are parallel to each other.
Ugh. Splice should be tapered and the strands shouldn't be unlayed.
you didn't say how long the whip is at the beginning?
Way longer then it needed to be as he just cut it off later on.
well explained but poorly shot... We need close shots to really see the tucking well
Really? Over one under one, a rule of thumb. After 6 inches remove 1/3 6 more inches remove another 1/3 ?and complete the last. Six inches.
"Tuck" is passing thru and "Splice" is the finished product.
nice
The camera is way too far from your hands . I can’t see how you are weaving!
whoo!
Need to go slower and close up.
Why do you need to add the chain, how about just knot the anchor to the end of the rope?
The chain allows the anchor to properly dig into the bottom, google it!
MUCH better holding as the chain will keep the pull along the bottom.
Sadly you have to glib patter of a man who’s done it a thousand times...
The phrase, “just through here” defines nothing and there is no close up to see which one of the strands goes under the other stand and which in fact is the “other” strand.
Have a think about how you explain it next time...