What is 120 film? Everything you need to know about medium format film!
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- čas přidán 25. 06. 2024
- One for anyone new to medium format film, or thinking of buying a 120 film camera. I run through everything you need to know about 120 film.
Probably not a video for people already familiar with 120 film! Goes on a bit...
Seriously though, if you're currently shooting with 35mm and are interested in shooting 120 but aren't sure what it's all about, then this is the video for you. Have a watch, if you still have questions, pop them in the comments and I'll do my best to answer!
(PS... I start off this vid saying it's going to be a quick one, but it turned into a bit of a tome...)
I usually never comment on CZcams, but I was surprised how this channel is underrated, I can truly say I've learned from this video more than any article or video about 120 film / Medium Format!! please keep them coming :)
Thank you! I'm glad you've found the channel useful. Lots more coming... just as soon as I can find enough time!
Some tips from someone who not only shoots 120 film, but feels comfortable enough with rollfilm that I make my own 120 and 220 film from bulk film:
1. Keep the film sealed in the foil/paper/plastic it comes in until you are ready to shoot. It keeps the film protected from light, and from getting dirty. I had a roll of 120 that was still sealed, but out of it’s foil on my desk for several months, in room light. The film was absolutely trashed. Don’t be like me, keep your films in a dark place, like a camera bag or dedicated film holder.
2. Although the film is able to be loaded outside a darkroom, load in subdued light. You will get light leaks if you don’t. If you are inside, make sure you aren’t in a super bright light, like a studio. If you are outside, move to the shade, and put your body between the sun and the film.
3. Do keep in mind that some cameras can be super finicky to load. Always read your camera manual. I have 3 120 cameras, each load differently. First, I have a box camera with a red window, super simple and intuitive. I also have an RB67 with a motor back, you line up the arrows on the film with a white marker. Pretty easy. And then I have a rolleiflex. With that, it isn’t obvious at all. But once you thread the film through a pair of rollers and onto the takeup, it will start automatically!
Hope these tidbits help someone out!
I just got a Lubitel with a red window, first time shooting 120, I loaded in some 120 lomography black & white film with black and white paper and I can’t see the numbers through the window to tell which exposure I’m on. Have you dealt with this, what did u do to fix it?
Good advice!
Wait, let me guess, are you shooting Ilford film? The numbers on the backing on Ilford film is really faint, I struggle sometimes!
Sorry I’m late! Best thing to do is shine a bright light onto the window and try and read the numbers. Although this shouldn’t effect the film, it’s still recommended to not shine the light directly into the window for long. Hope this helps!
Dude, your explanations are amazing. I bought a ratty Agfa Isoly from a thrift shop because I’ve always been interested in shooting film, but didn’t know where to start (and was scared to spend the big bucks right off the bat). When I bought it I barely had the slightest of clues, let alone what film and how to use it, but I’ve learned so much from such a short video already. Can’t thank you enough, keep on doing the great stuff
Thanks, glad you found it useful! There's nothing scary at all about any of this stuff, but I figured it might be helpful to show people the mistakes I made, or the things I didn't know when I started!
Without a doubt the best breakdown of medium film and how they work in cameras. Well done, sub'd and time to check out more of your videos.
Thank you! I hope you enjoy the rest of my vids. Lots more in the pipeline! 👍
Thank you for explaining the windows and the back of the film, I had no idea what I was looking at
No problem, glad you found the video helpful!
Awesome vid! A lot of info for a beginner. Wish I had this available when I was searching about medium format. Cheers mate!
Thanks, yeah I wanted to make a video that had all the information that I would have found helpful when I first started! Glad you enjoyed!
Brilliant, thank you! I was confused as to how 120 film seemed to give different sized negatives. All clear now 🙂
Glad it helped! I tried to transport myself back to the first time I used 120, and all the things I didn’t understand back then!
Nice video. Thank you
RS. Canada
Super helpful, thank you! I ordered a Chorma Camera Cube 66 recently. Between this and your other video on that camera I think I'm ready to try out 120!!
Good luck with 120! You’re opening up a whole new world of cameras and possibilities! The Cube 66 is great. Couple of tips - don’t shoot with the sun in front of you if you can avoid it, and try to shade the red window in the back. If you wind on in bright sunlight you can still get streaks through the paper backing! Let me know how you get on. And watch out for my next video, which is all about MF cameras and what’s out there to try!
Thanks super clear explanation
Awesome! Thank you so much!
You’re welcome! Glad you found it useful.
This is awesome, many thanks!
Glad you found it helpful! 👍👍
This video has helped me tremendously, thank you so much.
Glad it helped! Good luck with your photos!
Excellent video! Hearing not only what to do, but also why it works this way makes it much easier to understand.
Really glad you found it helpful!
I just got my first medium format camera in the post yesterday and this has been very helpful. Thank you!
Glad you found it helpful! Good luck with shooting medium format, feel free to drop any questions you come across here and I’ll try to help if I can! 👍👍
This was inspiring and useful. Thank You!
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for the comment!
Excellent video describing 120 and 127 roll films. Very clear descriptions you give Mr. 120ist! Subscribed and will watch all your videos. Cheers from USA 🇺🇸!
Thanks so much, I’m glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the sub, lots more content coming! 👍👍
Awesome mate, you just answered all of my questions! 👍
Glad to have helped! Good luck with shooting 120! Drop me a message here if you have any other questions, I’ll try to help if I can 👍👍
Thanks, though I had known all this before it was a nice and enjoyable education, appreciated!
I've been shooting 120 occasionally for a few years, but this was still informative. I have a Yashica-Mat LM. Those Yashica TLRs were works of art!
Great explanation of medium format films. Especially appreciated the info about 120. I have a Yashica D my dad gave me about 50 years ago. Haven't used it in many years. Might give it another go. Thanks!
Do it! Get that camera out and put some film through it! The Yashica D is a great camera, almost identical to the Yashica 635 that I have. They're great to use, lots of character, and usually pretty solid and reliable. I have a Yashica A also that has a slightly sticky shutter, but my 635 is 100% reliable. Let me know how you get on!
Awesome breakdown man. Subscribed!
Thanks! And thanks for the sub!
Awesome video!
Thanks! Glad you found it helpful!
THANKS FOR THE INFO.
You're welcome! I hope it was helpful
thanks for the great video!
You're welcome!!
at 6:43 you are 1/2 right, you forget the Leica rangefinder M2 & M3 cameras, these 135 cameras did have a removable takeup spool (silver knirled part on one side), the M5/6/7 are the ones which went to a fixed spool, a closed petal design. ( this was because of the back flap design, you MUST load the spool first outside the camera!)- similar to the nikon and cannon 250 &750 bulk load backs, just a different design.
I just forgot, one other use for red-window advance is the older hasselblad backs, the 12-on, NOT the A12 backs, this has a funnel to show up the numbers to the red window.( just raise the asa dial, and this uncovers the window!)
at 15:33 there is ONE exception to this, the Mamiya Press standard, the predecessor of the universal press and super23; this 6x9 back can be used TWO ways, first, with counter for 6x9 shots, then SECOND: by a red window advance, for the other three formats, 6x4.5/6x6/6x7 which this multi-format back shoots, but fair warning, NEVER hit the 'trip' switch if red window advancing, as this takes the winder shaft out of free-run, and arms the 6x9 counter system, going into the 'start' run up cycle! as if about to start a fresh film.
I mention this as the door for the red window opens ALL three simultaneously, so you do see all the numbers!!!
Great video man, excellent advice for this dork who's just found his great great grandpa's old brownie no2! I'll see if I can put this knowledge to use and produce some (likely to be rubbish) photography with the thing. Thanks mate :)
Sorry for the late reply! Glad you found it helpful! Have you tried out the brownie yet? You can get some great results from those old things. I love box cameras, they’ve really got character!
@@the120ist I haven't used the brownie itself yet since the shutter seemed to be a but gritty, but I've put a reel through an equally old (if not older, 1915-20ish) early ensign folding camera and am awaiting the results from the lab :) If the results come back any good then I'm planning on buying some more film and looking into doing my own developing seeing as the nearest shop that will do 120 take an eyewatering fee.
120 is so fascinating
I really like shooting it. Have you tried it?
@@the120ist unfortunately I don't have a camera that can take it, but I'm looking for one :)
@@NikolajLepka Well keep watching, I've got a few reviews coming up of 120 cameras, some that I've picked up crazy cheap! There are some great deals out there if you keep looking.
You need to get your arch-nemisis, The620ist on to explain the film that's the same size, same backing paper, but a slightly different spool, and won't fit in the 120 camera, or vice-versa. There were some nice 620 cameras made (Kodak Medalist), and you can wind 120 film on their reel to use the camera.
Ha ha! Damn that 620ist.... I feel sorry for that guy, not too many cameras to choose from. I actually did a video about 620 a couple of months back, take a look in my channel vids if you want.
Brilliant as always thanks. I’ve never been much interested in the how stuff works thing I’m happy to do what it says on the tin and go out shooting so although I’ve shot 120 on and off for 25 plus years I just learned a lot of new stuff. I tried an old box camera today didnt want to balls it up so I practiced loading with an old konica film perfect result arrows numbers in the red window happy as larry on speed then went for glory loaded some HP5 in im sure I did everything the same but this time nowt backdated in the widow not a number or bugger all I shot a frame of something half decent but didn’t want to dub expose that frame so wound on extra as I had no clue how far to wind eventually I made 3 frames on the roll I haven’t a Scooby if anything is actually on there im out of Chems so have to wait til I get some. Anyway put in a roll of tmax this was weird same no numbers so sacrificed the film wound through and the sticky tab was on the inner of the paper not the outer then put another roll of Tmax in and halla bloody luya numbers in the window. Let me get back to the Bronica quick 😂📷 top work Nick cheers mate
Ffs I was recording a vid of the experience so I just looked through the footage that roll of HP5 I put the film in the wrong damn way so the film came out of the roll closest to the cartridge what a muppet so basically I’m a mug but on the hp5 plus side at least I worked it out 🙄
Ahhh mate, how many times has a 120 film been loaded the wrong way round! But like you said, you worked it out. Some learn from books, some learn by doing, I learn but fu**ing it up and working out where I went wrong!!
@@the120ist that’s me mate balls stuff up kick me sen then hopefully do it it right next time
I have a Kodak vigilante 620 recently and wanted to learn more about how you use it
I have another video all about using 620 cameras, take a look on my videos page. I haven't used the Vigilante, but I do use a couple of other Kodak 620 cameras
Forensic question here... love this channel as I oops-bought another Hasselblad after selling my first in 2005 or so. So I'm getting back into 120/220. Question is, on 120 film, have you ever seen any that once developed is without brand, arrows or numbers in the rebate area of the film? AFAIK even the cheap brands from the 60s, Var-I-pan, Rex (Rexalls) had markers both to aid in processing and for the customer's sake. All the film mfgs wanted pros to use their film, police and press & so on, then legal issues and forensics. I'd bet even odd formats like 127, 110 and so on, down to toss-away cameras have arrows and numbering of some kind on the pellicule, if not the film brand. Prolly to do with mfg and quality control. Only concerned w 120 / 620 which has less space to print those figures than the robust rebate /sprocket areas of 135. Anyway, cheers and greatly enjoy your no nonsense approach!
Thank you! Hmmmm... I can't think of any films without any markers. Have you tried Shanghai GP3? I have a feeling that they used to be completely clear, but that may have changed in recent batches, not sure.
127 is also the film the "baby" Rolleiflexes took, hence why the 'baby' in the name!, as it shot 2\1/4" x 3\3/4" format also the 'sheet' size of the Linhof Baby's or 6.5x9's !!
I've shot plenty of 120 film before but just completed first two rolls with my Mia 6x6 pinhole camera and got fogging on both of them. I thought it was because I'd broken the cardinal rule and loaded outside but then realised it was the final frames that had edge fogging (second role unloaded indoors), starting about half way through role and getting progressively worse. I can only think it was because the film wasn't wound tight enough on the roll on completion. A real pain.
Hey thanks. Well explained. It’s been confusing but now it’s not 😂😂
Hope it helped in some way! 👍👍
Thanks for the information, I have a Brownie Hawkeye and a Vigilant Junior Six-20 and I love them. I'm looking at a Yashica C for my next, any thoughts? Thanks again for the info.
Haven’t tried a Yashica C, it’s the predecessor to the Yashica D and 635 but as far as I can tell the only difference is the wheels to change shutter speed and aperture instead of levers on the C. Looks like the lenses and shutter are the same on both models, so I’d say you can expect very similar results to the 635. You love the TLR experience after the box and folder, different approach to taking photos and lots of opportunity to create some great images! 👍👍
Amazing vid thankyou! Just got my first medium format camera in a charity shop and was so confused about how I was going to wind the film back until I watched this😂. Can’t find much about it, it’s a Bencini Koroll 24s and has two windows on the back. Pretty sure it shoots double frames or something? So 24 negatives instead of 12. Do you know anything about this? Thanks for the super helpful video :)
Thank you, glad you found the vid helpful! So the Bencini Koroll 24s is an interesting camera, I've never owned one, but you're right, it shoots 24 frames on a 120 film. It does this by shooting the very unusual frame size of 6x3... don't know of any other cameras that do that.
The 6x3 images will be either very tall and thin, or very wide and narrow, depending on which way up you have the camera!
The two windows are for you to repeat the same frame in the first red window (left) and then the second red window (right). So you'd line up frame 1 in the left hand window, take a pic, then wind on a turn until frame 1 (again) shows in the second red window. Then you take a pic again, and you wind until the number 2 appears in the first red window (left)... and so on.
Bear in mind that the orientation of the frames that the camera takes will be the opposite of what you're used to with a 35mm SLR - the rectangular frame is on its side, so to speak. So to get a landscape orientation photo, you need to hold the camera on its side, as you would to get a portrait orientation image on a 35mm SLR. Holding the camera in a "normal" way, will get you a portrait orientation image. Hopefully the viewfinder will show you what you're framing and reflect this orientation!
Have fun with it, sounds like a quirky little camera with quite a fan base! I may have to go looking for on myself, I'm curious about it now. Thanks for your message.
35 mill wasnt introduced in the 30s, the first leica was released in the early 20s... just a quick clarification
I'm sure you're right. I thought that the standardised 35mm film with sprocket holes came in around the 1930s, but I only have questionable internet sources to go on!
@@the120ist that is actually not the case, 35mm cinema film was around way before that... It was introduced in 1893.
It was the same film that was first used for still photography by Oskar Barnacks "ur-leica" in 1913, but because of WW1 the first commercially available 35mm camera was the Leica 1 in 1925.
0:29 I didn't. Found some an old Lubitel 2 TLR in my family's old stuff. Bought B and W film and started shooting.
Good for you! Have you shot 35mm since then? If not, then you may find it disappointing... if I shoot 120 for a long time and then go back to 35mm I find the negatives sooo disappointing. They're so small!
@@the120ist Not really. The only 35mm camera I found was a point and shoot from the 1990s and I don't really like using auto. Still, I wouldn't turn down a 35mm camera, if I found one.
@@KratasCRAFT I agree, me neither. And yes, if a free 35mm camera came along, I wouldn't say no either! But I do like the bigger negatives that 120 gives you!
This has helped me so much with my new camera ! But I just don’t get how you stick the film at 8:45 into the spool, do you just roll it over? Or do you stick it into the little holes on the spool?
Hey, sorry it's taken my a while to get back to you, you may have already figured this one out!
You take the tongue, the tapered section on the front of the paper/film, and feed it into the slot down the middle of the spool. Then when you turn the spool it sort of folds in on itself, traps the folded bit and wraps around. So after a few turns it's pretty solid on there and won't pull free.
Does that make sense? Drop me another message if it's still not clear!
@@the120ist Thank you for getting back to me ! Yeah I loaded my first roll last week so I eventually figured that out haha but your video has helped me a LOT
@@Alex-em4zl Great stuff, glad you got it sorted! Shout if you have any other questions, i'll help if I can!
You mentioned taking off the tape of already exposed film to reload it. I’d like to do this to make double exposures. How would one go about reloading exposed film so that the shots lineup properly? Thank you in advance!
I don't think I've ever tried to reload 120... I take off the tape to load it onto the developing spool, but haven't tried loading it back onto a film spool. It's only taped at one end, so once the loose end is free, ie off the roll, it's actually really difficult to get it to roll up again. Not impossible, but you'd have to do it probably in a light tight room to give you the space to work it back tightly onto the roll.
I think if you detach the film from the backing paper there's almost no chance of getting it to line up again. The only way you're going to be able to do it is to keep it attached.
You could try stopping short of your final frame... so, stop after shooting 10 frames if you're on 6x6, for example. That way the loose end of the film won't have come off the roll, and should still be sitting snugly against the backing paper.
So long as you can get the film rolled up tightly again, all the way to the beginning, you should be able to line up your frames, either using the arrows on the backing paper, or by using the numbers on the back, and shoot almost identical bits of film the second time around.
Hope this helps! Let me know how you get on. I've never tried to do what you're doing, I'm interested!
You should really do double exposure by exposing twice at the same spot, it would be tricky to finish the film first then reload again.
Awesome thanks you! I just randomly found a Mamiya c220 for quite cheap and am now very interested in this sport.
My question is, should one take the camera to a dark place to change rolls? Should this only be done in a darkroom for best results?
I live in a small town, we do have a camera store, is 120 film fairly easy to develop or is it a specialized process?
Just starting on my journey though I did take basic photography (SLR) in school some decades ago...
Hey, thanks for the questions! The C220 is a great camera, you'll have lots of fun with that, definitely get yourself some film and start shooting!
People usually say "subdued lighting" for changing rolls, but this often isn't possible. The key is that you keep the 120 film wound tight throughout, don't let it fall loose. As long as you do that, you should be just fine. I changed one in direct blazing sunlight just yesterday, I didn't have a choice, I was out in the sunshine. It shouldn't do much damage, if any. You may occasionally find you get a few leaks right on the edge of the film, but nothing more.
I have never once changed rolls in a dark bag!
120 tends to be pretty common to get developed. Not as common as 35mm of course, but I've never come across a company that doesn't do it. You'll find a difference between black and white, and colour though. Not everywhere will do black and white, because it's a bit more specialised. Anywhere that processes film will do the basic colour service, called C41 processing. Some have machines to do this, but if they don't then the benefit of C41 is that you can do all films together, regardless of brand, ISO etc. Black and white processing often requires films to be processed by hand, because development times vary from film to film.
Unlikely your local photo store won't do 120, but it's possible they won't do black and white. If they don't do BW, and you want to shoot BW, there are a couple of BW films that can be processed as if they're colour, ie using C41 process. Look for Ilford XP2 as a starter.
And then when you really get into the whole film photography thing, you can start processing your own film at home! You don't need a dark room, it's super easy and it will save you a fortune in the long run!
Shout if you have any other questions. Good luck!
@@the120ist Thanks for the feedback!
I feel so lucky to have this camera at the price I got it for and am super stoked to get started on this journey!
@@shibby4389 Let me know how you get on!
Hello, how far is from the start indicate on backing paper to the actual film?
Not something I've ever checked before, but I have a few rolls of dead film here... I have just measured three, and I can tell you that there is a little variation, but they're all approximately 6.5 inches, or 17cm, from start markers to film start!
Really like your videos! I have a question that you might be able to help me with. I would like to get into 120 shooting and I was looking at the different Bronicas out there. So heres the question, what are the macro capabilities of these cameras andis there any specific lenses that would be particularly well suited for that? Thank you!
Hey, thank you! The usual barrier to macro shooting is being able to get the lens far enough away from the camera... infinity (far) focus is when the lens is closest to the camera, focusing on close objects requires the lens to be further and further from the film plane. The standard minimum focus distance on lenses it entirely based on how far the lens can get from the film plane in its configuration out of the box. The solution to this is extension tubes and bellows attachments.
There is a bellows attachment and extension tubes available for ETRS cameras. I've never seen tubes or bellows for the S cameras, but that doesn't mean they're not around, although probably rare and expensive! I know that the Bronica SQ cameras have at least one dedicated macro lens available (110 f4), maybe more... and you can get extension tubes and an auto bellows for the SQ system too.
I should also say that I've never tried any of these! I don't do much macro... but you've got me thinking now...
@@the120ist video idea maybe? Yeah I've heard that the construction of the bronicas makes them focus closer than Hasselblads for instance.
Maybe a video on macro! Good idea! Yeah the minimum focus distance on the S2A with the stock 75mm f2.8 on it is just under 2ft, which is pretty close! The helicoid set up allows quite a lot of travel, at full extension focused at 2ft distance, the lens extends away from the camera almost 150mm, which is huge really. I would assume that the body of the Bronica is probably slightly longer than the Hasselblad as well, they are noticeably bigger, so that will add to it.
I might take a look around for some extension tubes, see if I can do some experimenting with macro. Thanks for the idea!
@@the120ist UPDATE: got myself a s2a and a whole lot of extra accessories (including bellows) and it's awesome. The only thing now is that it has some sort of problem with winding the film. It winds the film and then when the tension is close to that click that allows the shutter to shoot it pops out of tension. I leave it a minute or so and it works properly. Or i take the back off and back on and it works. I dont know if I'm doing something wrong but it does that on both backs that i got
Hi. I have a question... I haven't taken pictures of the recently purchased Zeiss Ikon Nettar 516/2. It's 120 film. I bought iso 400 film, but this camera doesn't have iso settings, so in the 40's what were the film sensitivities of those days? Regards:)
Hey, congratulations on the new Nettar. They're lovely little cameras. Really underrated. You should get some great images with it. There's no iso setting on it because it's fully manual. 400ISO should be just fine for it though, as long as you're taking photos outside. You might struggle indoors, depending on what lens you have with it. The Nettars all came with lens options, I think my Nettar has a f6.3 lens on it, you're may be a f6.3 or a f4.5 or similar. Either way you should be able to get good shots handheld with your 400ISO film.
Older film tended to be slower, so lower ISO, but you'll the camera will have a range of settings that will work with 400ISO.
Do you have a light meter? Or are you going on the sunny 16 rule?
@@the120ist Thanks for the answer! So it's good that I bought iso400 :) Once the films had a lower iso, so I assumed something. I really intend to take pictures outside - such a large film just in time for beautiful landscapes or portraits with an interesting background of nature. My lens is Novar Anastigmat 1:4.5 f=11. I will use the light meter in the smartphone from the application :) Yes, it's a beautiful little camera, it's great :)
@@langowski007 Yes you'll be fine with that. Enjoy shooting! If you have any more questions, just ask!
@@the120ist Thank you :) I am very happy that in case of anything I can always count on Your answer :))) 8 photos on film, oh, I will anticipate each shot in my imagination before pressing the shutter :D Greetings and wish you good photos too 👍👍👍
How do you store the film? Do you put it in a fridge?
Ahhh, the age old debate... to fridge or not to fridge. I don't store my film in a fridge, but I don't keep film for all that long. I tend to buy and then shoot pretty soon after. If you're going to be storing film for long periods I'm sure it is better to keep them in a fridge. But I never have, and I've never noticed any major difference.
To say that this was didactic is an understatement.
❤
I don't like the markings on Ilford and Kodak 120 type films. On some cameras, the preview window is so dark that I cannot see the frame number. The labeling of Foma films is much better.
I can definitely agree that Ilford and Kodak are very hard to see!! It's a real struggle sometimes, and I often have to shine a pretty bright light onto the red window to see what's going on, which makes me nervous, especially when using panchro films!
I don't shoot much Foma actually... I should! I've got a few rolls in the fridge waiting for me. Maybe that's what I'll do this weekend! Thanks, you've given me a great idea!
Has anyone tried 120 Shanghai B&W film recently? I use their 4x5" film and like it.
The reason I am asking is I want to order some 120 Shanghai to try but not if they still are having trouble with the backing. If you are not aware, a few years ago Shanghai had a problem with the ink on the paper backing that would transfer to the emulsion of the film while it was all rolled up. The ink of the words and numbers would soak in and not come out during development! In the final B&W prints, you could faintly read those words and numbers.
Thank you.
Terry Thomas...
the photographer
Atlanta, Georgia USA
Hey terry, I haven’t tried shanghai film at all I’m afraid. But I did hear about the backing paper problem some years back, and haven’t heard anything more recently. Whether this means the problem has gone away, I don’t know!!
I have also read that Catlabs X80 is repackaged GP3… and I’ve read plenty of good reviews of the Catlabs 120 film recently.
Hopefully someone with more recent experience of Shanghai film will jump in! 👍
@@the120ist thank you for the information. At US $6 or so per roll, I really don't want to use it only to be disappointed. Oh well, I guess I will just have to bite the bullet and give some a try. I'll let you know what my experience with some is when I am finished.
It's just better. Full stop.
35mm is for beginners.
Ahhh now I may have to disagree with you there! I totally do agree that 120 is better, because there’s more real estate in your negatives and more detail available.
But, a lot of people see 35mm -> MF -> large format as a sort of progression. And I would argue that they all have their place. Shooting MF and LF has made me better at 35mm.
I also think that 35mm shooters can be scared of 120, and MF shooters scared of LF, and they shouldn’t be! It’s all the same thing really.
But 120 is better…
Personally speaking from my experiences. You know you're getting old when you have to explain how to load film to digital people.
No just how to load film... how about trying to explain what film cameras actually are!! Had that with one of my nephews! He just looked at me totally baffled.
I kind of like explaining it to someone who's interested though, imagine being in their shoes, with a whole new world to discover! I think maybe i get more excited about it than they do....
But lets talk about the positive: There is a growing demand by “young people” to learn how to load and shoot film. We’re seeing a revival of all kinds of analog media in these times, which i think is awesome!
@@sebi744 Totally 100% agree! Without a new generation taking up film photography it will all die out. We've seen numerous film formats go, 110, 620, Polaroid packs, and without interest from a new generation it surely wouldn't be long before 135 and 120 were struggling. I also love what the new rise of film photography says about the world... that there's an appetite for a slightly trickier but more "real" way of capturing the world around us.
On the one hand, I don't like that I have to pay more for vintage cameras at the moment, but on the other, I love what rising prices for vintage cameras says about what's going on out there!!
Long live film. I don't shoot film because I like having a niche hobby, I shoot film because I enjoy the process and the results, and increased popularity can only be a good thing for keeping it going!
@@sebi744 Very true Sebastian. Not knocking the film new revolution, just a comment on age. I think the new interest in film photography by young people is fantastic. Why spend mega dollars on a 50 Megapixel digital camera when film from a Kodak Brownie can give you 100 Megapixel results.
@@waynesimon7096 i didn’t want to sound offensive. I 100% agree with you! But regarding Age: don’t we all feel old sometimes? I’m 24 years old and i often feel like i don’t belong in my generation. I feel more comfortable talking about analog cameras then talking about TikTok 😄 Also: this part of CZcams is much more friendly and open, gotta give probs to you guys!
But as the @120ist said: with this new interest by the “new generation” come higher prices. A +1000$ Point and shoot? No thank you 😅