Polycrylic or Polyurethane: How and When to Apply | This or That DIY | Wood Finishing Basics
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- čas přidán 21. 05. 2020
- If you're wondering whether to use Minwax Polycrylic or Minwax Polyurethane as a topcoat for your wood finishing DIY project, you NEED to see this! I talk about the differences between Polycrylic and Polyurethane, how to apply them, and when you should use each topcoat to get the finished look you want. Knowing the differences between these oil-based and water-based paint and stain sealers is essential knowledge for any DIYer!
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Affiliate links to products shown in this video:
Polycrylic: amzn.to/2Zrb93m
Polyurethane: amzn.to/3gazVdT
4" foam roller: amzn.to/2TttVDm
The best polyester brushes: amzn.to/2ARFsG9
#MinwaxPolycrylic #MinwaxPolyurethane #ThisOrThatDIY
Satin Polyurethane will remain a gloss to semi -gloss finish if not completely stirred in the can before and during the application. This means a good 5-10 mins. of stirring. Do not shake the can as it will cause air bubbles that take days to disapate. The more coats you apply the more gloss is achieved in the finish. This I have experienced as a professional painting contractor for over 30 years. All satin products need complete mixing to achieve your satin finish. I appreciate your videos and most all your advice is spot on. Your are a good role model for all the young DYI'ers. Keep up the good work!
4:15 -Thank You for explaining the Dry times between the two different poly types AND time BETWEEN Coats and when to re-apply etc. This will help the current project we are doing since we have a can each of both oil based and water based and just bought a combo ( Varathane poly + water based ) Stain ! Assuming we can finish with either one but fumes, dry time in between, and clean up, are the game changers on what to use. Thanks again !
Nice explanation of the differences. I like the durability of oil-based. After a few years, the two look very similar.
If you finish with oil based poly, do not throw the rags in the trash. They can start a fire. I've seen it happen. I like to hang them up to dry. The next day they are dry and perfectly safe.
Ah hanging them. Thank you! I was never sure what to do with these stupid rags. I been throwing them in a bucket of water but now don’t know what to do with that mess. Was also laying them all over the place. Now I’m going to do a little clothes line. 👍
Polyurethane does not oxidize cure, it dries. Urethane doesn’t spontaneously combust because it is solvent drying.
Linseed or other similars like Tung Oil do create heat because it cures. This generates heat and a balled up rag can combust as it cures and oxidizes.
Thank you so much for this video! Very informative and now I know that I should use polycrilic to finish my countertops instead of the polyurethane I was planning on using. You rock!
This is everything you need to know if you're a DIYer or a Professional learning to protect paint and stain. The information is inclusive, and presented in a logical order, thank you for this great video.
This was fantastic. Quick and to the point. No nonsense talk. I love this video 💜
Yes! Yes! & Yes! I totally agree!!! Well done!
Well I learnt something new from watching your staircase renovation and had to find out about the poly acrylic and your channel pops up again, thanks!
Ha awesome! I'm glad 🙂
Thank you for your honesty, many you tubers won’t tell you details and you’ll end messing up your stuff 🤦🏻♀️
Wow! Wonderful walk through the material. Not one wasted word or distraction. I hope you continue doing videos.
A most complete unbiased informative video. Gives you everything you want to know and everything you need to know. Thanks for sharing. - Grampa Joe
I’m experimenting with Varathane’s water based polyurethane on a wood project. You can apply coats every 2-3 hours and fumes aren’t too bad. It even goes on milky so you can see what’s going on then it dries clear.
This is so helpful. I’m about to start one two different projects and I think that I will do both products on both projects but different areas of the projects (depending on the paint color I use, and how much use they will be subjected to). Very direct very concise. I will check out more of your videos!
Terrific overview and hits the high points very well.
Came here for advice and now I'm in love so that's cool.
😂👍
Lmao I was too mesmerized too learn a damn thing
I concur!
She’s pretty
Son of a bitch I hear ya
I really appreciate the shared knowledge! Especially the bit on raw plywood where color change is not desired. Which "poly" did you use on your raw ceiling?
Would you recommend either of these poly-products on raw plywood used as countertops where water will be present? I'm looking for something extremely durable to protect raw plywood without changing the color of the light colored wood (okoume).
Great video, you answered a ton of questions I had. Thanks for making it!
Please make sure to lay out any rags used for oil based products flat until they're dry before throwing them in the trash. If it's bunched up, the fumes can increase the temperature high enough to spontaneously combust (a lot of garage fires start that way). Once it's dry enough to stop off-gassing, it should be fine to throw out.
Thank you for this comment! Directions on cans either say not to throw out the rags, but they not what to do with them, or they say "dispose of properly" but don't say what that is. Now I know that once the fumes are gone, the dry rags are safe to discard. Thanks!
This was extremely helpful! Thank you!
I have a bar top that's 1x10 pine. What would you recommend using for a water resistant finish on that. That also won't change to much of the color of the pine now.. Thank you
Hi! Great video! I have a question. I painted bathroom tiles, primed w/two coats, then painted with BEHR Urethane Alkyd paint which is oil based. I am so afraid of it turning yellow! Do you have a recommendation on which sealer I should use? Much appreciated!
GREAT EXPLANATION! You answered all my questions and concerns!!! thanks you so much. your wording and explanation was perfect!! Good Job!
The exact info I wanted!! You’re awesome.
Awesome!
Great video. You were really confident in your knowledge and experience of these products. I throughly enjoyed this video.
This was so helpful. It's so great to see other women doing DIY and sharing their tips. What do you think about a Varathane Diamond Finish? How does that compare to a polycrylic or polyurethane finish? Would like a video on this!
Super informative. Good tips to take away with for future projects. Thanks
Super helpful! Doing a baby salt dough foot imprint craft project and didn't want to use mod podge. Thank you
1:38 was exactly what I needed. THANK YOU 🙏
Well, I think you can achieve a somewhat natural look but it's more work. If you apply thin coats and at the end you rub the finish with an abrasive pad (synthetic steel wool), I suppose you can get rid of the gloss and plasticky look. I'm going to try soon because I don't usually like the look of the water based products but sometimes I need protection with no yellowing. And always prefer less harmful stuff if possible.
Thank you so much for clear explanation. I'll be staining and applying one of poly for the first time for couple of upcoming projects. Subscribed!
I'm glad it was helpful! Thanks for subbing! 🙂
Hi Melissa,
Thanks for sharing this I’ll go with poly on my front door 🚪
Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for this video. Great information. My take away is that for the dining tables I am refinishing for a Mexican Restaurant, which will have no stain or paint, I could use either water or oil poly. I’m curious to know how you believe the Polycrylic will tolerate the restaurant grade cleaning chemical that may be used to clean the tables between customers. Thank you again
Great info! Don't use water-base on wood benches and tables. I did and after time, it became sticky. Use oil-base. More durable and not sticky
But what if I painted a chair white and don’t want it to yellow?😶
I am confused, I just started to renovate my bathroom counter top as in a DIY only to understand fumes all the protective finishes has.. I put a a marble look wall paper on the counter and just want to finish with a clear protection from water and mold. Can I get some help?
Thanks,
Confused
Excellent job defining the differences between polyurethane and polycrylic.
Thank you for the great tips. What would you recommend to "seal" a stained coffee table that will be covered in stickers after staining? I could go either way on the base for the stain. Oil or water based. I don't care. Also, the stickers will all be high quality, plastic type stickers. Not the cheap paper ones.
What is the lowest temperature outside is best to apply polyurethane over a stained project!?
Thank you this is a great video and I learned what I was looking for! In addition to this I am wondering what can I use to seal clay pots that will be outdoors?
TY for this info. I'm about to polyacrylic a coffee table I just refinished. I chose the polyacrylic because of the clean up & being less toxic. I didn't know I would need so many layers, so I'll be sure to do 5 to 6. Thanks again for the video, it was very helpful
Go with an oil modifed finish. You still have water clean up and a better finish.
Hey Melissa , there is an element you're missing which is addressed by Stumpy Nubs video " How to apply a nice satin/ matte wood finish " . In it he discusses how satin and matte polycrylic finishes have silica flattening agents that require specialized stirring so they don't settle to the bottom of the can . Also wax is used to create matte finishes on period pieces along with shellac and varnish.
Any suggestions of what I can coat a white IKEA (fiberboard/acrylic paint) table top (LINNMON) with in order to make it more durable and look more expensive?
Just the advice I needed! Although, quick question about the matte finish…I just white painted some dark wood paneling in my basement and did all the steps. I have scratched it 3 places already:( so I want to seal it. Any suggestions? Thanks!!
so helpful!! what would you recommend I use to protect outdoor painted rocks? And a mailbox? both rocks and mailboxes decoratively painted with acrylic paints...I'd like to start selling them and dont want to gyp my customers...it needs to withstand the sun, rain, snow etc...
thanks in advance!
Excellent, to-the-point video, and VERY helpful. I wish I had seen it before using polyurethane over a latex gray painted surface a couple of months ago. It now looks like I varnished over the gray. UG-LY!!! I'm going to re-do my project, and I'll use polycrylic for sure this time. THANK YOU!!!
This was a awesome video. I’m trying to decide on what to use to finish a dining room set I painted using chalk paint. I tried polycrylic but it dried white if I didn’t catch a drip
Please tell me about the lacquer finishes, like when to apply , how well they hold up , are they smooth finishes or how do they compare to other finishes.
Thank you!! I was super confused in the hardware store yesterday trying to figure all of this out
The most non annoying and informative video! Thank you so much!
Thank you for such helpful info. Wondering what protective Finnish you would recommend for a decorative shelf that was painted with a crackle medium and a cream acrylic paint top coat. I see acrylic artist recommending varnish for acrylic paintings. Is the same true for a decorative shelf?
Thank you so much for the information, which I have been looking for answers to for weeks. My white kitchen laminate countertop gets stains easily, and I want to apply some kind of clear sealer to protect it from getting stains again. Would you recommend which sealer is safe, durable, and moisture resistant for countertops? Thanks again for your knowledge and time.
Great video! Answered so many of my questions. I’m making awards out of pine tree slices. I want to keep the pine look so I’m going to use polycrylic. Im also applying a transparent with white lettering sticker which will be step two. Then step 3, I’ll put several coats over the decal until it’s smooth. It’s raining. It’s winter. I don’t have time for polyurethane. Any input would be great. Thank you!
My husband inherited his parents home and we have a lot of work to get the home back in shape. The house was built in the 20's or 30's and has wood floors throughout. Plus, a built-in shelf wall. Old doors and door frames. I'm not sure what kind of wood was used but the shelf feels like a soft wood. I stripper off layers of paint and i want to just seal it. What would you recommend?
Thank you soo much. I now know the difference and appreciate how direct and succinct your video is. Great video
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! Straight to the point and very informative.
I'm so glad you liked it! 🙂
if you were going to paint your laminate countertop with say Rust-Oleum color would you or could you apply the Poly on top of that for more durability?
Super helpful, thank you!
I’m wanting to paint over wood a white color for an outdoor patio coffee table. It needs to be semi water resistant and can endure some sun exposure. What would you recommend I use?
Hi! I am repurposing an old desk into a vanity. I have painted it teal, my daughters favorite color. I started with the polyurethane but immediately noticed it yellowing. GRRR - I didn't know!!! Now I have to resend that part.. . So I should use the polycrylic? And will that give it a glossy finish??
Thank you for this info! It was exactly what I needed to know and you explained it all so well 👍
The only thing I would say is do not throw any rags with oil based products on them in the trash! They absolutely CAN and do combust without any spark or ignition agent. 😳
Apparently as the “drying” type oils (as opposed to kitchen oils that stay wet) start evaporating they heat up. If the rag is balled up it gets too hot and can combust on its own. 🔥 They say dry flat or put in sealed container of water. Someone here said to hang them to dry which is a great idea. 👍
Thanks again and I subscribed.👏
Thanks for the tips! Hope you make diy/woodworking videos! :)
Wow..!!!! Thank you soooooo much Wish I would’ve seen this earlier I got a satin finish clear poly in my kitchen cabinets are so shiny
Hi there thank you for the video. I am completely new to wood but I wanted to make some coaters out of wood cutouts that you find on the dollar store. I have painted them but now I am looking for something that will make them "water resistant". Any suggestions? Thank you so much
I'm looking for a matte finish for the back of my island that I just stained with minwax special walnut. Would you leave it as is or do you recommend protecting it ?
From the UK: Thank you so much @Welcome To The Woods. After watching several other videos & trying to learn the best way to protect our revamped painted wooden kitchen table, your video gave me all the answers I needed in one go. Very much appreciated. Ordered the Minwax Polycrylic from Amazon, as it's not generally available here in stores. Subbed & rang the bell...you smashed this one for me 💥
Thank you for this video!!! I have some raggedy-looking window sills under windows left open during the rain too many times. I need to replace the sills but I pretty much have to paint them white to match the rest of the room. I was wondering if I could apply a clear sealer on the sills to drastically improve the water-proof-ness, for the future times the window is left open in the rain. And you answered my question with really practical reasons! Thank you! I'm going to try the poly gloss finish, 5 or 6 layers. Thank you so much!
Best video on Polycoat. Simple to the point no bs!
Hi, I just learned a lot !! So, what would you used for a pine diy outdoor bench ?¿ I used Varathane Dark Walnut stain but really want a satin non gloss or low gloss protective finish ...thankyou
I'd use polyurethane for a dark stained outdoor project. You won't notice the yellowing much at all and it will be more durable against the rain/weather. Be sure it's outdoor though! Buy the flattest finish you can find and then test it in an inconspicuous spot to see if you're okay with the level of shine. Try this one: amzn.to/3iGTBqj
Thank you! I am doing wood shelves in my kitchen and want to keep the look of the wood (white). If I do a white stain, do I still need to seal it?
I don't think it's necessary for shelves. Most stains seal the wood. The main wear might happen on the edges as you set things up and nick the edge. Poly would help prevent that, but I think it'll be ok if you just stain them!
If my countertops are painted with white oil primer and then finished with enamel paint, what would be best to seal and finish the job?
I need to beef or refresh hardwood floors that were done when we bought the house. We have no idea whether they used oil or water based polyurethane?
Very informative and much needed as I'm new to the finishing end of woodworking. Thank you and my goodness you're pretty! JS!
Thanks for sharing the information!!
Your explaination is very clear and good help.
Thank you so much. Cheers
Great video, it was very informative and clear. It will help me a lot. Thanks again.
I'm new to wood working, but so far I love the Polyurethane, seems like I can do the project with 3 coats of urethane, where the water base take's double. I have been making Adirondack Chair's, and the oil base really makes the cedar pop out...
That sounds like the perfect application for outside chairs and I agree that polyurethane goes on with less coats than polycrylic. Thanks for your comment!!
Very clearly and effectively explained 👍🏼
What would I use over a restained flat matte dining table to keep that matte look but protect it.ty
Hi this is a great video, thank you for the info. I have a question though, I made a wood sign I’d like to seal. So it’s wood painted with white acrylic paint and then I applied a black vinyl decal. What would you use to seal it? I’m thinking maybe polycrylic. I don’t want it to yellow over time, however I don’t want the black to look milky either. Do think a spray paint or regular paint/canned with a brush would be better? Thank you for any advice you can help me with. 😊
I have a birch butcherblock island that I love the unfinished color but when I see pictures of the birch butcherblock with poly it looks SO yellow which I don’t want. What’s my best option for a truly clear protective finish that will keep the natural finish look?
Thank you so much! Informative, and straight to the point, I really appreciate that!
That front porch ceiling looks great. I probably would have applied Minwax Natural (No. 209) stain to the raw wood before sealing with poly but that is a large area so I understand why you didn't. I've also never applied poly with a a foam roller (just foam brushes) so that's a tip I'll have to try sometime.
This answered my question perfectly. Great video!
You did a great job helping me with my questions, thank you for making this vid
Clutch video. Helped me out when choosing a top coat for my bench. New to woodworking.
Good to hear! :)
What product do you use for a matte finish ? I want something that doesn't shine
Hi, thanks for this video! Just wanted to mention that I recently found Polycrylic in a clear Ultra Flat finish at Lowes. I did a test against the satin finish, this ultra flat is a winner! I'm sealing a chevron style red oak farm door.
Oh good to know! I have yet to find a poly that didn't have shine so now I'll have to try that Ultra Flat!
Wow SUPER informative with no pointless filler!!!
Excellent video, to the point and covered the necessary details.
Hi Melissa
So informative!
Thank you.
I have just painted an old cement floor with floor paint and I am going to stencil it with white floor paint also.
Would it be ok to use polycrylic on that to seal it?
Thank you
👏💯
Amazing presentation. Very crisp and to the point. 🤗👍👍👍👍
Thank you for this useful video! I just painted an old Ikea Kallax bookcase and made doors for it. Waiting for it to cure. Do you think it matters if I use a Minwax vs a Varathane polycrylic?
What sealer should I use for wood cabinets that I painted with “oil-enriched enamel” paint from Lowes? Oil-based polyurethane? Thanks
What would you use for a matte finish on a black painted countertop? (I haven't decided whether to use oil or water-based paint yet). Many thanks for your thoughts!
Did u ever get a solution to this?
I have just sanded my pine table back to bear wood and I want to keep it looking like bear wood. I don’t want gloss finish I want Matt so it still looks like bear wood. What do you recommend please ??
What topcoat do you recommend for a canvas floor cloth with acrylic metallic paint. It will go under a dining room table in a sunny room. I really don't want it to yellow and I need to be able to clean off spills, crumbs, etc. Thanks so much!
I learned so much in this video. I like how u explain in a simple and to the point way.
Absolutely clear and helpful video. A must for a beginner as I am. Great!!!
thank you for taking the time in sharing your experience you have very useful info, I have used polycrylic because it says its clear satin but I noticed what you say, it has a little shine, so ¿what should I use if I want a flat matte finish? BTW no matter you're using water based in ventilated area, you still going to breathe toxic vapors you have to use respirator, why risk your health?, Greetings from Mexico!!
Thank you so much. So if you wanted completely non yellowing and satin or matte finish what would you use instead please? I want something I don’t have to keep reapplying and that is non toxic please.
I don't have a ton of projects that require a completely matte finish so I've usually just used a spray. This is the one: amzn.to/33cf7ii (affiliate link) you can probably find it cheaper in the store. Almost everything has some level of toxicity, this spray should be done outdoors for this reason but the smell isn't too bad. Do three coats of this spray and you shouldn't need to reapply often.
This is a great video!!!
I painted an old dresser navy blue and attempted to seal it with minwax -fast drying polyurethane. I used a foam roller and I had lots of little bubbles so I switched to a foam brush but the polyurethane is extremely shiny. Is there any way I can dull the shine?
Good question. The little bubbles can be fixed by sanding the piece with like a 220 grit sandpaper and reapplying poly. I've never tried to dull the shininess of polyurethane, but I imagine if you sand with a high grit sandpaper, it would do just that without completely removing the protective layer. For example, I recently sanded epoxy resin down from a high gloss finish to semi-gloss using 800 grit sandpaper.
You could apply plain wax over it to dull the shine.
Whew. Talk about taking me to school! I painted a huge antique desk in chalk paint, two toned, black top with white body and black hardware. I knew wax wasn't going to protect the top from all the activities. So I came here to see if I was correct in going with the poly on the top. I'm going to go with the wax on the white. Can't even think about yellowing and possibly having to redo it. That would be my special nightmare. I've liked, commented and sub'd. I love yr no nonsense approach to yr content. Thx for yr time and knowledge. U rock!
Thank you, this was very helpful.
Great presentation. I would like to ask for an advice, please. For pine wood tongue and groove ceiling, I am thinking of whitewashing (white pickle). Could you direct me which might the best way, please? Thank you.