I'm in the process of doing my own valve clearances and filming the job just now so will be posting a vid on the subject when it's complete... please bear with me as I tend to be a bit slow when it comes to filming/editing and uploading to youtube... life and work commitments always get in the way lol. (Not to mention lovely days where I want to get out on the Bandit and enjoy her with my beautiful wife.) I've also recently synchronised the throttle bodies and filmed/taken pics of the process. I have yet to edit and upload that too. I will endeavour to complete them both when we have some crappy stay indoors weather and I can get to the PC.
You're welcome. I checked my valve clearances and they were all in tolerance so no adjustment/shim change was required. I filmed the whole procedure with an explanation of each stage and I will upload it... this will help to show people what's involved right up to the inspection stage and of course the rebuild procedure. Sadly I don't have footage of camshaft removal/assembly and shim change as it wasn't necessary this particular time. May I add that It has given me peace of mind knowing I've checked the valve clearances and they're all ok and of course I saved some money by not having to put the Bandit in the dealership and pay for the cost of the time and effort involved stripping down and rebuilding which isn't a quick job. If I paid my dealer to simply check I guess I would be looking at a charge of approx 3 hours labour plus parts which amounted to just under £40 for the valve cover gasket, 8 x new rubber washers for the valve cover bolts and a right hand side crankshaft cover gasket. You will need approx 1/2 to 1 ltr of coolant to refill too. Kind regards and Ride Safe Mark
Hi Boeserbob. Just to let you know I've uploaded the 1st part of 'Valve Clearance Check'. Will try to get the re-build part done next week. Ride safe Regards Mark
Mark Horton quick one when you change the spark plugs you pull the elec lead out the end does the caps screw off or pull of to get access to the top on the spark plug with the special socket cheers
Hi... when you've disconnected the electrical connector simply prise up the coil/rubber boot assembly as one. Place a cloth between the valve cover and whatever implement you use to prise.... this will prevent marking the paint. Hope that helps. Regards Mark
If you place a folded rag on the rocker cover and use a flat bladed screwdriver or a pair of long nose pliers underneath the top 'L' shaped part of the coil (after you've disconnected the power cable) you will find it simply pops upwards off of the spark plug. Hope that helps...
Hi Mark, Really useful & Helpful, i'm going to embark on a full service in the next few weeks. I was a bit worried about the spark plugs as they looked fiddly!!! Looking at your video, it looks doable!
If you have any worries mate don't hesitate to ask... changing the spark plugs was ok using the tools provided in the standard toolkit that came with the bike. There are cutouts on either side of the frame just at the place where you pass the spark plug tool down into the cylinder head for pots 1 & 4 which really helps too. It'll all come clear as you do it : )
Hi. Do you know what car oil filter will be compatible? Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki can be compatible with Hyundai, Kia, Toyota car oil filter. I think Suzuki also has the same.
Hey bud im totally with you on the spark plug situation. i have gsx1250fa and i done a service at the beginning of the year (pain in the ass) but much rather that than pay a garage to do. and doing an oil filter change isnt the easiest either is it lol. mine was on way too tight from previous owner aswell but i got there in the end . oh your bike is minted mate. :) very nice indeed!
Thank you bigoz1977.... so nice to receive positive friendly comments. I purchased a special oil filter removal wrench/spanner from CJ Accessories in Barnsley. They were selling them on ebay for just over a tenner posted and it made removal and tightening a breeze. Check out their ebay site or indeed their own website www.cjaccessories.co.uk they sell lots of useful bandit bits and pieces along with service kits (AIr/Oil Filter, Spark Plugs, Oil and Sump plug washer as a set at a discounted price from the rrp). Also if it helps here's a link to the oil filter spanner that I purchased... very useful addition to my tool kit. www.cjaccessories.co.uk/product.php?productid=16794&cat=256&page=1 Hope that's useful and as I have said in other posts...do pop back in the future as i will be uploading other support for balancing the throttle bodies on the GSF1250 and the procedure for Checking the valve clearances. i have completed these and collected the footage just gotta find time to edit and upload now. Ride Safe.... Regards Mark
If it helps my friend they will change an item for another and make a kit just for you... all you have to do is ask. For example I changed the Oil from Putoline DX4 to Putoline Sport 4 which has a better blend of synthetic components and they did it at a small charge over the std kit. I'm here if you need support mate. Ride safe.... Mark
Great video mate, I love my 1250 Bandit. Supprised you didnt opt a K&N or DNA life time air filter. Although doing so you should have free flowing cans and possibly a reprogram of the ECU?.
Thank you for your kind comments... lovely bikes with real world engines and ample power where you need it on the road. All the best mate, hope you enjoy lots of great times on your 1250 🏍️👍
great vid, got my gsx fa 1250 today. has 10k on the clock, think it could use an oil change. not sure about the sparks. it has 10k on the clock. would they need doing?
Matthew Jackson... thx. Lovely bikes and I'm sure you'll get lots of pleasure from yours too. According to the service schedule in my workshop manual they recommend 'Check The Spark Plugs' Every 4000 miles (6000km) and Replace The Spark Plugs With New Ones' Every 7500 miles (12000km). I do an Annual service where I change all the basics using a full service kit I get from CJ Accessories on ebay. (This includes 4 NGK CR7E Spark Plugs, Gen. Suzuki Air & Oil Filters and Putoline Sport4 Semi Synthetic Engine Oil along with a Sump Plug Washer) They are helpful, reliable and I save a few quid over my local Suzuki Main dealer - let alone of course the labour charge. (They will make up a part specific kit for you if you ask too.) My Bandit is 7 years old this month and well out of the need for warranty stamps in the service book - however that doesn't stop me taking care of the job and recording the details in the service book for future reference. I've only had her 18 months and I only average approx 3k miles per year and what I do is well over and above what is necessary - however I do get peace of mind knowing they're all done and in one go and I have reliability on all my journeys thus far. She rides so smooth and cleanly and I also enjoy maintaining her myself. Naturally it's a choice thing and you have to weigh up the pros and cons of cost, reliability, spare time etc. So in answer to your comment.... Some of the questions that spring to mind are: Do you know when they were last changed? What condition are they in? What sort of history/Bills/Receipts did you get with your GSX FA? Is it still in warranty and do you want to preserve that? (ie: entrust the bike to your local dealer and continue with a fully stamped up service record) Hope all goes well - Ride Safe ....regards Mark
+David Davis Hi David... the bike was on a shade over 14500 miles when I carried out the routine service and she was six years old. The owner before me had her from approx. 3 months old. I upgraded the oil from what had been used by previous dealers (Putoline DX4) to an oil that is well suited to the sports/touring machines of today (Putoline Sport4 - In my opinion it has a better blend of synthetic oil). The Air filter appeared to me as if it had never been changed (there was no evidence of one in the bill history I got with the bike either) and was choked up with dried out insects, and other airborne material, dust etc. It was desperately in need of changing and a few weeks prior to shooting the video and changing it I took the old one down to my local petrol station and used an airline to 'reverse blow' the bulk of the dust and debris. This bought me a little more time to obtain all of the service items and choose a day to carry out the procedure. I also balanced the Throttle Bodies using a set of Vacuum Gauges at the same time the routine service/maintenance was carried out. The bike now drives beautifully and I have the peace of mind knowing it was done using the Genuine Branded parts that I purchased (Suzuki Air/Oil Filter and new sump washer, NGK CR7E Plugs and of course the Sport 4 Oil) All good to enjoy for the spring and going in to the summer... and I shall be doing it all over again next spring. If the bike was new and within the warranty I would abstain from doing my own servicing until such time as it was out of warranty. I am really enjoying having this lovely machine... it's a real pleasure to own, ride & maintain. I may upload a video next time I connect up my Vacuum Gauges to help people that want to attempt this relatively straightforward improvement that most people should be able to perform with a multi cylinder engine and carbs/Throttle bodies. Hope all that helps... Incidentally I purchased a service kit for the GSF1250 from CJ Motorcycle accessories in Barnsley Tel: 01226 749871 - The cost was £89.00 incl. free postage. I saved around 20 quid over my Suzuki main dealer and all the parts are genuine branded products. ... very helpful and not greedy with their prices too. They normally include DX4 oil in their regular service kit but I upgraded and paid a little more for the Sport 4 oil.Regards MarkRead more Show less
+Mark Horton Thank you Mark for your reply , My bike has only done 3600 miles and hopefully by the time a big service comes round ,I will have all the info I need to carry it out myself.
And this is why I bought a GS500E. Maintenance on these modern bikes is far too complex. Everything is hidden away. If I want to get to the top of the engine all I have to do is remove 6 bolts and 2 hoses. From there I can replace the air filter adjust the valves or take the entire top of the engine apart and change it.
An Oil change alone takes 3 litres (3000ml) and an Oil and Filter change takes 3.5 litres (3500ml) according to my workshop/service manual. In my experience I find it best to start off by filling with slightly less as it's easier to add than it is to remove. Once you've completed the Oil/ Oil & Filter change start the engine... run for a couple of mins to circulate and then turn the engine off. Go have a cup of tea and a sandwich and find something else to do before you re-check the level. I like to allow the engine to cool and when all the oil has drained back to the sump you'll be able to see the settled level and decide whether or not to add a bit more. All checks should be done on the sight glass marks (High and Low) with the bike on level ground. You're looking for the oil level to be between these 2 marks.... above or below is not good.
It is a bit fiddly and it's true to say there is not a lot of room there.... You'll notice the Motorbike frame has bends/cutouts just in the area where you need to remove the coils and spark plugs for cylinders 1 & 4 - Very helpful indeed. I disconnected all the electrical connectors on the coils first and gently prised all the coils upwards (I placed a rag on the rocker cover and then used long nosed pliers and/or screwdriver to gently grip/prise the rubber insulator around the coil and levered against the rocker cover - the rag prevents any scratching/marking of the cover) once you feel the coil rubber lose its grip around the spark plug it's simply a case of pulling it up and away from the cover. I kept mine all in order and replaced them that way... but then I find that helps with my OCD lol. You could simply do one at a time if you prefer. Remember to ensure there are no loose debris/grit etc before undoing the spark plug and opening up entry to the cylinder area... either blow clean if you have access to high pressured air or use a vacuum cleaner to clean the area first before removal of any plug. Again that's just me being safe... generally there shouldn't be anything there in the first instance because of the tight fit of the coil rubber. When replacing the coils be sure to apply downward pressure to the top (Again... levering where you need to) and you'll feel it slip onto and grip the spark plug correctly as you drive it home. This ensures you get a good and decent electrical connection. - You can apply some Di-electric grease to the white porcelain insulator which eases the coil home and aids removal next time but don't overdo it... a smidgen will do. Hope that helps Mark
Thanks Mark! Replace the sparks, had let down the engine. But i still hear shots in the exhaust, when braking on the gear, compression checked - 12bar in all cylinders. Exhaust not stock, this may be causing the problem?
The pop you're referring to on the overrun is unburnt fuel being ignited in the exhaust after the combustion process has completed. Has it always done it or can you pinpoint a change that may have triggered it? Have you checked the Oxygen sensor/wiring connections? ... I've actually eliminated my sensor with an 'o2 eliminator' to help with the leanness/hesitancy issues associated at low rpm. It has improved the ride for me at low rpms in traffic etc.... You can get them on Ebay with a blanking plug quite cheaply. You could try putting the bike in 'Dealer mode' and see if there are any error codes displayed that may point you in the right direction (You can purchase the switch and connector on ebay for around £15 quid or indeed override the connector terminals by using a jumper wire/paper clip which is pennies... again there's loads of info on youtube about dealer mode suzuki etc.) Do you know of any/all history what's been done to the bike? Did the exhaust replacement require the ecu to be re-mapped? I'm still running the stock exhaust on mine and don't have any issues like that. Don't know how many miles you've done or any of the service history but may I add - Have you had the valve clearances checked? and also Air filter clean/change?... along with the Throttle bodies synchronised? Do you have a service manual? Haynes do one quite cheap and full of information. It's a Worthwhile investment if you like to look after your own machine although It does depend on the extent of how much you personally want to look after your bike or indeed put it in the hands of a dealer who has all the equipment and trained staff. (Downside to that of course is the cost) My Bike is 6 and 1/2 years old and far from warranty so I prefer to take care of it myself where I can. I know my own limitations and outside of them she would have to visit the dealer. Hope that starts you in the right areas... Mark
Mark Horton Hi Mark! I fix this problem, i just install stock exhaust and now i have normal sound.. I will check valve clearance and TB adjust after season closing, "winter is coming"))) Also thanks for help! Good luck on the road!
That's cool my friend....each to their own. Very hard to generalise such a topic... Do I bother/Don't I bother with so many factors to consider. If you've owned the bike from new then only you know how hard you've pushed that engine and that's fair to make that call if you choose. On the other hand If she's had a few owners and you're down the road of ownership and they've not been checked you just don't know. The vids are there if people want to see what's involved in simply checking the clearances. Personally for the small cost in gaskets I'd rather be safe and sure that I seen them clearances with my own eyes. Motorbike workshops will charge you a hefty fee just to look at the recommended service interval and of course an even bigger fee should there be any adjustments required. (There's also the charge for the adjustment that was 'carried out' that 'wasn't carried out' if you get my drift lol) That's fine cos after all they got a business and overheads to cover. However if you like to look after your own 'out of warranty' motorbike and keep some of that money for other mods/accessories there's nowt wrong with a bit of diy provided you tackle the job properly. Personally I'm happier to continue riding without the question mark hanging in my mind safe in the knowledge I'm good to go.... i certainly wouldn't want the bill associated with neglecting the valve clearances and the damage/costs that ensue. How many recalls have there been with Suzuki regarding Valve clearances on their Vstrom 650 just as an example? Freedom of choice for all concerned - I still like to help tho. Ride safe Motor City Man - Regards Mark : )
Ok, just a FYI for you though. I've talked to many owners of the Bandit 1250 and not a single one had to adjust the valves when checked at 14,500 like the manual says or even at 25,000 or 30,000 miles.
455Transam like I've said before. .. the vid is there if anyone wants to know what's involved. I choose to follow the schedule for peace of mind and I'm pleased I do for the record. When I sell my bike it's service history and info is what the buyer is interested in. I could say nah they've never been checked mate... they're good to go forever lol. I'm gonna retire on this subject and say.... It's up to each individual whether or not to check... at the end of the day it's their call. Ride safe my friend
What a waste of time, I think we all know what to do, I was expecting the bits in between like what pipes under the tank and how to remove it, not just being told. A few tips would have been better.
+321willow Thank you for your constructive comment... if there is anything in particular that I can help you with I'd be more than happy to help. I think it's fair to say that not everybody does know what to do and sometimes a couple of useful tips can be obtained from this brilliant medium that is youtube.... naturally most people that upload videos will respond to messages and also try and support if they can. I simply recorded some of what I did when I carried out my routine service and hoped it may help anybody with a Bandit GSF1250 to do likewise. I didn't think that removing 2 overflow pipes on the petrol tank and disconnecting an electrical fuel pump connector and fuel line warranted much airtime.... although if you check at 4:15 on the video I do explain the fittings that connect the fuel tank to the bike. I also mentioned there was only two bolts holding the petrol tank to the chassis and they can be accessed underneath the seat. This was prior to changing the air filter and I was showing its location and how to access it. This was my first video uploaded to you tube and I accept I may have made some mistakes. I will attempt other videos like balancing the throttle bodies etc. and hope they may be improved and of some use to someone in the future.....Ride safe....Regards Mark
+Mark Horton I only meant that you left out the good bits like wriggling the oil filter out and where the pipes are located under the tank, also the plugs, one minute they were in the next there out. It was a bit like a old blue peter clip "Here's one I prepared earlier lol. I did like the idea of the extra horns, some car drivers need the c**p scared out of them lol. Ride safe yourself
+321willow I get what you're saying... thx. I may add a separate audio track next time I do something like this and concentrate more on the filming instead of trying to juggle all things all at the same time. I thought the foil trick would help people to prevent getting engine oil all over their exhaust whilst undoing/draining and removing the oil filter. One less thing to clean up at the end of the job. I suppose I was concerned people might get bored watching too much detail so tried to compromise what I believed to be straightforward with showing edited parts and sending people to sleep. The horns have been a good investment and the old meep meep Suzuki horn is now redundant lol. Take care
I love your uploads too.... oh sorry you dont do uploads do you lol. You're a serial watcher and criticizer and nothing more. You are quite entertaining when you offer criticism although sadly it's obvious you know jack. I can tell you're super intelligent and love to help others (not).... so why don't you do something positive with your life for once and grow up. CHILD!!!
Well, *I* enjoyed the video. Then again I find maintenance videos relaxing. Thx anyway for the video, Mark.
Great video Mark!
I'm in the process of doing my own valve clearances and filming the job just now so will be posting a vid on the subject when it's complete... please bear with me as I tend to be a bit slow when it comes to filming/editing and uploading to youtube... life and work commitments always get in the way lol. (Not to mention lovely days where I want to get out on the Bandit and enjoy her with my beautiful wife.) I've also recently synchronised the throttle bodies and filmed/taken pics of the process. I have yet to edit and upload that too. I will endeavour to complete them both when we have some crappy stay indoors weather and I can get to the PC.
Mark Horton I see forward to this video. I'll have to adjust my valves too. Thanks for sharing! Best wishes from Germany. Stay save
You're welcome. I checked my valve clearances and they were all in tolerance so no adjustment/shim change was required. I filmed the whole procedure with an explanation of each stage and I will upload it... this will help to show people what's involved right up to the inspection stage and of course the rebuild procedure. Sadly I don't have footage of camshaft removal/assembly and shim change as it wasn't necessary this particular time. May I add that It has given me peace of mind knowing I've checked the valve clearances and they're all ok and of course I saved some money by not having to put the Bandit in the dealership and pay for the cost of the time and effort involved stripping down and rebuilding which isn't a quick job. If I paid my dealer to simply check I guess I would be looking at a charge of approx 3 hours labour plus parts which amounted to just under £40 for the valve cover gasket, 8 x new rubber washers for the valve cover bolts and a right hand side crankshaft cover gasket. You will need approx 1/2 to 1 ltr of coolant to refill too. Kind regards and Ride Safe Mark
Hi Boeserbob. Just to let you know I've uploaded the 1st part of 'Valve Clearance Check'. Will try to get the re-build part done next week. Ride safe Regards Mark
Hope this helps with some of the routine servicing of your GSF 1250 Bandit.
Mark Horton quick one when you change the spark plugs you pull the elec lead out the end does the caps screw off or pull of to get access to the top on the spark plug with the special socket cheers
Hi... when you've disconnected the electrical connector simply prise up the coil/rubber boot assembly as one. Place a cloth between the valve cover and whatever implement you use to prise.... this will prevent marking the paint. Hope that helps. Regards Mark
Mark Horton take it takes some force as it's seem tight did not won't to go to far incase it broke lol
If you place a folded rag on the rocker cover and use a flat bladed screwdriver or a pair of long nose pliers underneath the top 'L' shaped part of the coil (after you've disconnected the power cable) you will find it simply pops upwards off of the spark plug. Hope that helps...
Put some silicon grease or other high temperature grease on the insulator part of each spark plug upon re assembly.... that will aid removal next time
Hi Mark, Really useful & Helpful, i'm going to embark on a full service in the next few weeks. I was a bit worried about the spark plugs as they looked fiddly!!! Looking at your video, it looks doable!
If you have any worries mate don't hesitate to ask... changing the spark plugs was ok using the tools provided in the standard toolkit that came with the bike. There are cutouts on either side of the frame just at the place where you pass the spark plug tool down into the cylinder head for pots 1 & 4 which really helps too. It'll all come clear as you do it : )
Thanks Mark ur a legend
Thank you for your kind comment
great vid, I have a 650 verison, but as far as I can tell, theres not a whole lot of differences other than sylinder volume:)
Bro that oil looked like my cars transmission fluid after 50k miles. How often do you change it?
Hi. Do you know what car oil filter will be compatible? Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki can be compatible with Hyundai, Kia, Toyota car oil filter. I think Suzuki also has the same.
I use 10 w30 moble one
Hey bud im totally with you on the spark plug situation. i have gsx1250fa and i done a service at the beginning of the year (pain in the ass) but much rather that than pay a garage to do. and doing an oil filter change isnt the easiest either is it lol. mine was on way too tight from previous owner aswell but i got there in the end . oh your bike is minted mate. :) very nice indeed!
Thank you bigoz1977.... so nice to receive positive friendly comments. I purchased a special oil filter removal wrench/spanner from CJ Accessories in Barnsley. They were selling them on ebay for just over a tenner posted and it made removal and tightening a breeze. Check out their ebay site or indeed their own website www.cjaccessories.co.uk they sell lots of useful bandit bits and pieces along with service kits (AIr/Oil Filter, Spark Plugs, Oil and Sump plug washer as a set at a discounted price from the rrp). Also if it helps here's a link to the oil filter spanner that I purchased... very useful addition to my tool kit. www.cjaccessories.co.uk/product.php?productid=16794&cat=256&page=1 Hope that's useful and as I have said in other posts...do pop back in the future as i will be uploading other support for balancing the throttle bodies on the GSF1250 and the procedure for Checking the valve clearances. i have completed these and collected the footage just gotta find time to edit and upload now. Ride Safe.... Regards Mark
Cheers mark I will certainly have a look at that company 👍🏻 ride safe buddy
If it helps my friend they will change an item for another and make a kit just for you... all you have to do is ask. For example I changed the Oil from Putoline DX4 to Putoline Sport 4 which has a better blend of synthetic components and they did it at a small charge over the std kit. I'm here if you need support mate. Ride safe.... Mark
cheers buddy i will certainly keep you in mind mate, thank you very much :)
Great video mate, I love my 1250 Bandit. Supprised you didnt opt a K&N or DNA life time air filter. Although doing so you should have free flowing cans and possibly a reprogram of the ECU?.
Thank you for your kind comments... lovely bikes with real world engines and ample power where you need it on the road.
All the best mate, hope you enjoy lots of great times on your 1250 🏍️👍
great vid, got my gsx fa 1250 today. has 10k on the clock, think it could use an oil change. not sure about the sparks. it has 10k on the clock. would they need doing?
Matthew Jackson... thx. Lovely bikes and I'm sure you'll get lots of pleasure from yours too. According to the service schedule in my workshop manual they recommend 'Check The Spark Plugs' Every 4000 miles (6000km) and Replace The Spark Plugs With New Ones' Every 7500 miles (12000km). I do an Annual service where I change all the basics using a full service kit I get from CJ Accessories on ebay. (This includes 4 NGK CR7E Spark Plugs, Gen. Suzuki Air & Oil Filters and Putoline Sport4 Semi Synthetic Engine Oil along with a Sump Plug Washer) They are helpful, reliable and I save a few quid over my local Suzuki Main dealer - let alone of course the labour charge. (They will make up a part specific kit for you if you ask too.) My Bandit is 7 years old this month and well out of the need for warranty stamps in the service book - however that doesn't stop me taking care of the job and recording the details in the service book for future reference. I've only had her 18 months and I only average approx 3k miles per year and what I do is well over and above what is necessary - however I do get peace of mind knowing they're all done and in one go and I have reliability on all my journeys thus far. She rides so smooth and cleanly and I also enjoy maintaining her myself. Naturally it's a choice thing and you have to weigh up the pros and cons of cost, reliability, spare time etc. So in answer to your comment.... Some of the questions that spring to mind are: Do you know when they were last changed? What condition are they in? What sort of history/Bills/Receipts did you get with your GSX FA? Is it still in warranty and do you want to preserve that? (ie: entrust the bike to your local dealer and continue with a fully stamped up service record) Hope all goes well - Ride Safe ....regards Mark
I would do it anyway, then you have a starting point for your maintenance schedule.
Any creative uses for the left over oil? I dislike having to dispose of it with the old oil.
Great for starting a bonfire
How many miles had the bike done ,when you changed the air filter and plugs , Did it make a great deal of difference to the bikes performance.
+David Davis Hi David... the bike was on a shade over 14500 miles when I carried out the routine service and she was six years old. The owner before me had her from approx. 3 months old. I upgraded the oil from what had been used by previous dealers (Putoline DX4) to an oil that is well suited to the sports/touring machines of today (Putoline Sport4 - In my opinion it has a better blend of synthetic oil). The Air filter appeared to me as if it had never been changed (there was no evidence of one in the bill history I got with the bike either) and was choked up with dried out insects, and other airborne material, dust etc. It was desperately in need of changing and a few weeks prior to shooting the video and changing it I took the old one down to my local petrol station and used an airline to 'reverse blow' the bulk of the dust and debris. This bought me a little more time to obtain all of the service items and choose a day to carry out the procedure. I also balanced the Throttle Bodies using a set of Vacuum Gauges at the same time the routine service/maintenance was carried out. The bike now drives beautifully and I have the peace of mind knowing it was done using the Genuine Branded parts that I purchased (Suzuki Air/Oil Filter and new sump washer, NGK CR7E Plugs and of course the Sport 4 Oil) All good to enjoy for the spring and going in to the summer... and I shall be doing it all over again next spring. If the bike was new and within the warranty I would abstain from doing my own servicing until such time as it was out of warranty. I am really enjoying having this lovely machine... it's a real pleasure to own, ride & maintain. I may upload a video next time I connect up my Vacuum Gauges to help people that want to attempt this relatively straightforward improvement that most people should be able to perform with a multi cylinder engine and carbs/Throttle bodies. Hope all that helps... Incidentally I purchased a service kit for the GSF1250 from CJ Motorcycle accessories in Barnsley Tel: 01226 749871 - The cost was £89.00 incl. free postage. I saved around 20 quid over my Suzuki main dealer and all the parts are genuine branded products. ... very helpful and not greedy with their prices too. They normally include DX4 oil in their regular service kit but I upgraded and paid a little more for the Sport 4 oil.Regards MarkRead more Show less
+Mark Horton Thank you Mark for your reply , My bike has only done 3600 miles and hopefully by the time a big service comes round ,I will have all the info I need to carry it out myself.
And this is why I bought a GS500E. Maintenance on these modern bikes is far too complex. Everything is hidden away. If I want to get to the top of the engine all I have to do is remove 6 bolts and 2 hoses. From there I can replace the air filter adjust the valves or take the entire top of the engine apart and change it.
I guess I'm a bit late but my last bike was a gs500f and now I have the bandit. I'll never go back to a carbureted bike...
How much oil did it take exactly? Thank you!
An Oil change alone takes 3 litres (3000ml) and an Oil and Filter change takes 3.5 litres (3500ml) according to my workshop/service manual. In my experience I find it best to start off by filling with slightly less as it's easier to add than it is to remove. Once you've completed the Oil/ Oil & Filter change start the engine... run for a couple of mins to circulate and then turn the engine off. Go have a cup of tea and a sandwich and find something else to do before you re-check the level. I like to allow the engine to cool and when all the oil has drained back to the sump you'll be able to see the settled level and decide whether or not to add a bit more. All checks should be done on the sight glass marks (High and Low) with the bike on level ground. You're looking for the oil level to be between these 2 marks.... above or below is not good.
how to get the ignition coil #1? It rests on the frame...
It is a bit fiddly and it's true to say there is not a lot of room there.... You'll notice the Motorbike frame has bends/cutouts just in the area where you need to remove the coils and spark plugs for cylinders 1 & 4 - Very helpful indeed. I disconnected all the electrical connectors on the coils first and gently prised all the coils upwards (I placed a rag on the rocker cover and then used long nosed pliers and/or screwdriver to gently grip/prise the rubber insulator around the coil and levered against the rocker cover - the rag prevents any scratching/marking of the cover) once you feel the coil rubber lose its grip around the spark plug it's simply a case of pulling it up and away from the cover. I kept mine all in order and replaced them that way... but then I find that helps with my OCD lol. You could simply do one at a time if you prefer. Remember to ensure there are no loose debris/grit etc before undoing the spark plug and opening up entry to the cylinder area... either blow clean if you have access to high pressured air or use a vacuum cleaner to clean the area first before removal of any plug. Again that's just me being safe... generally there shouldn't be anything there in the first instance because of the tight fit of the coil rubber.
When replacing the coils be sure to apply downward pressure to the top (Again... levering where you need to) and you'll feel it slip onto and grip the spark plug correctly as you drive it home. This ensures you get a good and decent electrical connection. - You can apply some Di-electric grease to the white porcelain insulator which eases the coil home and aids removal next time but don't overdo it... a smidgen will do. Hope that helps Mark
Thanks Mark! Replace the sparks, had let down the engine. But i still hear shots in the exhaust, when braking on the gear, compression checked - 12bar in all cylinders. Exhaust not stock, this may be causing the problem?
The pop you're referring to on the overrun is unburnt fuel being ignited in the exhaust after the combustion process has completed. Has it always done it or can you pinpoint a change that may have triggered it? Have you checked the Oxygen sensor/wiring connections? ... I've actually eliminated my sensor with an 'o2 eliminator' to help with the leanness/hesitancy issues associated at low rpm. It has improved the ride for me at low rpms in traffic etc.... You can get them on Ebay with a blanking plug quite cheaply. You could try putting the bike in 'Dealer mode' and see if there are any error codes displayed that may point you in the right direction (You can purchase the switch and connector on ebay for around £15 quid or indeed override the connector terminals by using a jumper wire/paper clip which is pennies... again there's loads of info on youtube about dealer mode suzuki etc.) Do you know of any/all history what's been done to the bike? Did the exhaust replacement require the ecu to be re-mapped? I'm still running the stock exhaust on mine and don't have any issues like that. Don't know how many miles you've done or any of the service history but may I add - Have you had the valve clearances checked? and also Air filter clean/change?... along with the Throttle bodies synchronised? Do you have a service manual? Haynes do one quite cheap and full of information. It's a Worthwhile investment if you like to look after your own machine although It does depend on the extent of how much you personally want to look after your bike or indeed put it in the hands of a dealer who has all the equipment and trained staff. (Downside to that of course is the cost) My Bike is 6 and 1/2 years old and far from warranty so I prefer to take care of it myself where I can. I know my own limitations and outside of them she would have to visit the dealer. Hope that starts you in the right areas... Mark
Mark Horton
Hi Mark! I fix this problem, i just install stock exhaust and now i have normal sound.. I will check valve clearance and TB adjust after season closing, "winter is coming"))) Also thanks for help! Good luck on the road!
pleased you managed to sort it... Ride safe : )
You didn’t fill up the filter a little? And make it wet with oil when screwing it on?
Your showing when done, more useful to show how you do it.
Yes I could have shown a bit more detail when fitting the oil filter... Sorry about that.
Do you teach ???
These bikes rarely need valve adjustments, I wouldn't have a problem not checking them for 30,000 miles!
That's cool my friend....each to their own. Very hard to generalise such a topic... Do I bother/Don't I bother with so many factors to consider. If you've owned the bike from new then only you know how hard you've pushed that engine and that's fair to make that call if you choose. On the other hand If she's had a few owners and you're down the road of ownership and they've not been checked you just don't know. The vids are there if people want to see what's involved in simply checking the clearances. Personally for the small cost in gaskets I'd rather be safe and sure that I seen them clearances with my own eyes. Motorbike workshops will charge you a hefty fee just to look at the recommended service interval and of course an even bigger fee should there be any adjustments required. (There's also the charge for the adjustment that was 'carried out' that 'wasn't carried out' if you get my drift lol) That's fine cos after all they got a business and overheads to cover. However if you like to look after your own 'out of warranty' motorbike and keep some of that money for other mods/accessories there's nowt wrong with a bit of diy provided you tackle the job properly. Personally I'm happier to continue riding without the question mark hanging in my mind safe in the knowledge I'm good to go.... i certainly wouldn't want the bill associated with neglecting the valve clearances and the damage/costs that ensue. How many recalls have there been with Suzuki regarding Valve clearances on their Vstrom 650 just as an example? Freedom of choice for all concerned - I still like to help tho. Ride safe Motor City Man - Regards Mark : )
Ok, just a FYI for you though.
I've talked to many owners of the Bandit 1250 and not a single one had to adjust the valves when checked at 14,500 like the manual says or even at 25,000 or 30,000 miles.
455Transam like I've said before. .. the vid is there if anyone wants to know what's involved. I choose to follow the schedule for peace of mind and I'm pleased I do for the record. When I sell my bike it's service history and info is what the buyer is interested in. I could say nah they've never been checked mate... they're good to go forever lol. I'm gonna retire on this subject and say.... It's up to each individual whether or not to check... at the end of the day it's their call. Ride safe my friend
What a waste of time, I think we all know what to do, I was expecting the bits in between like what pipes under the tank and how to remove it, not just being told. A few tips would have been better.
+321willow Thank you for your constructive comment... if there is anything in particular that I can help you with I'd be more than happy to help. I think it's fair to say that not everybody does know what to do and sometimes a couple of useful tips can be obtained from this brilliant medium that is youtube.... naturally most people that upload videos will respond to messages and also try and support if they can. I simply recorded some of what I did when I carried out my routine service and hoped it may help anybody with a Bandit GSF1250 to do likewise. I didn't think that removing 2 overflow pipes on the petrol tank and disconnecting an electrical fuel pump connector and fuel line warranted much airtime.... although if you check at 4:15 on the video I do explain the fittings that connect the fuel tank to the bike. I also mentioned there was only two bolts holding the petrol tank to the chassis and they can be accessed underneath the seat. This was prior to changing the air filter and I was showing its location and how to access it. This was my first video uploaded to you tube and I accept I may have made some mistakes. I will attempt other videos like balancing the throttle bodies etc. and hope they may be improved and of some use to someone in the future.....Ride safe....Regards Mark
+Mark Horton I only meant that you left out the good bits like wriggling the oil filter out and where the pipes are located under the tank, also the plugs, one minute they were in the next there out. It was a bit like a old blue peter clip "Here's one I prepared earlier lol. I did like the idea of the extra horns, some car drivers need the c**p scared out of them lol. Ride safe yourself
+321willow I get what you're saying... thx. I may add a separate audio track next time I do something like this and concentrate more on the filming instead of trying to juggle all things all at the same time. I thought the foil trick would help people to prevent getting engine oil all over their exhaust whilst undoing/draining and removing the oil filter. One less thing to clean up at the end of the job. I suppose I was concerned people might get bored watching too much detail so tried to compromise what I believed to be straightforward with showing edited parts and sending people to sleep. The horns have been a good investment and the old meep meep Suzuki horn is now redundant lol. Take care
What are you mumbling about.Too close to microphone?
I find q tips help with hearing difficulties lol... you should try them.
Learn how to make useable video.
I love your uploads too.... oh sorry you dont do uploads do you lol. You're a serial watcher and criticizer and nothing more. You are quite entertaining when you offer criticism although sadly it's obvious you know jack. I can tell you're super intelligent and love to help others (not).... so why don't you do something positive with your life for once and grow up. CHILD!!!
A bit mumbly yea, but thanks for the upload regardless, much appreciated and useful