1965 Mustang How To Radiator Core Support Battery Tray Apron Replacement Episode 235 Autorestomod
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- čas přidán 8. 09. 2024
- We show How to tips tricks and diy ways to remove the inner fender apron and radiator core support from a 1965 1966 Mustang so we can install a fender apron and radiator core support from National Parts Depot.
Thanks for watching!
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Jeff Ford Contact:
Jford@autorestomod.com
Sponsor:
www.nationalpar...
Parts:
Mustang Radiator Support Repro C5ZZ-16138-A
Mustang Font Fender Apron RH 116-1RH
Mustang Battery Tray Modified 10732-1C
Mustang Mounting Kit Stone Deflector Concours: 17779-1AK
Great job Jeff, as usual. One word of advice you didn't mention. When it comes to purchasing your replacement core support, vendors offer several different pieces. One piece is a less expensive core support which is made of thinner metal (with or without the lower cross brace). A newer piece is the support with cross brace and made of thicker metal. Even if you don't need the lower cross brace, do yourself a favor and buy the thicker metal version. When compared side by side the difference is quit noticeable in quality and strength. If you don't want/need the lower cross brace, simply remove it before installation begins. Considering the effort it takes to change the core support, the quality, strength and fit are well worth the extra bucks!
"no,don't do it"LMFAO 😂 😂😂 😂😂 😂!
Thanks Jeff, real great info
Hey, great job Jeff! Wanna come over and replace mine too? I have a 69 Mach 1. 😂👍🏻
Lol depends on how far here is.
@@AutoRestoMod I’m in the SF Bay Area. Love the channel! 👍🏻
(JKWilson61- What company offers the thicker metal version?)Jeff, this is my first comment ever on a CZcams vid, and I must say, you guys are the best. Your vid's have saved my bacon so many times. Thanks for all you do!
+candymetts Metz Sorry Metz, CZcams decided that your comment needed review...looks good to us! The Canadian made sheet metal is the thicker stuff. National Parts Depot will list if it is the thicker metal.
Even through the Canadian battery tray is thicker metal, their are a lot of trimming to do, plus making more holes for the solenoid attachment, wire holders. Also the fitment is not as correct. After I welded the spectra battery tray and put on the fender, their were gaps on the fender and the upper tray. Like 1/4-1/2 gaps. For everyone else, be careful using an angle grinder with flap discs. An 80 grit flap disc will take out the MIG welds fast, but can eat trough the metal if not careful.
+Maksim Geyman The panel we got from NPD fit great. The only place we had fitment issues was a mild misalignment of the battery tray bolt reliefs at the bottom of the panel which we had to "kiss" the edge of the panel with a grinder to get clearance for the bolts. You are for sure right about the flap disc. We use a hard grinder disc for that and believe me, it can still try your nerves! =)
Looking for next video here in getting cross member off? Did you remove engine?
We didn't do anything with the frame rail and did not remove the engine.
Do you know if there are any majors differences for this project on a 67? Thanks
Not really a ton. Almost all of it will apply!
Major surgery! So my concern with tearing out a core support is tower collapse. If the car was a big block, etc, is there chance of the tower tops tipping in? I'm wondering if it helps to rig up something like Monte Carlo bars before cutting? Or, am I thinking/worrying too much?
+Karl X Don't think you can ever over think the structural part of this. Would a cross brace (like a monte bar) would be good? absolutely. But as long as the engine brace under the car is there, and the factory shock tower braces are there (and tight) you should be OK, note we say SHOULD, if there are other structural deficiencies (floor pans, frame rails etc.) nothing you do will help. Our little hard top has new pans, good rails and all the correct parts in place. We did a measure before and after removal of the apron and our shock towers never moved. BUT, a cross brace of box tube can't hurt either. We'll address this in the next video on 10/22/15.
+AutoRestoMod Makes sense to me! While we're on the subject, can you guys can do an episode on installing sub frame connectors on a unibody like the Mustang or Fairlane. With so many guys stuffing heavy twisting big blocks in these cars now, we're looking for ways to keep it from knotting it up. I've got a 68 Torino that I'm planning to fit a 460 in. I heard that I have to maybe even weld up the shock towers better? Thx.
We have a funny idea about that. These chassis are built for a certain amount of flex. While sub frame connectors can help reduce chassis flex, it can pop up in other areas, on the Fairlane hardtop you could see cracking at the B-pillar (area behind the rear quarter windows) if the chassis is tightened up a lot. There are several companies that offer these, so keep an eye peeled we might just do it!
+AutoRestoMod I agree about the B-pillar issue. When we restored my Torino fastback, we "got the lead out" of the seam and welded it up plus used All Metal. This is where I worry about cracking etc. after the big block is in. Hey! I know, why don't you guys drop a 460 into the Fairlane wagon?? Lot's of 68-69 owners would LOVE to do this, it's waaay cheaper to make much more horsepower with a 460 than an FE. Crites has a kit too.
LOL The Cleveland is plenty quick enough and gets marginally better mileage. But, we have our eyes on a Ranchero...