E-mu Systems - Proteus 1 & Proteus 2 Sound Module Repair
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- čas přidán 8. 09. 2024
- E-mu Systems - Proteus 1 & Proteus 2 Sound Module Repair
© 2018 - Greg Youngman Music
If changing out the old power supply with a new one, make sure the voltages on the Proteus ribbon connector match up with the new power supply. MOST REPLACEMENT SUPPLIES ARE NOT USING THE SAME PINS FOR SOME VOLTAGES!!!!
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You arrived at the same replacement as I did. Due to the different mounting holes, connector pin out, and height, I think rebuilding the old boards might be a better option. Recapping for sure, perhaps replacing the rectifier and transistors/regulators too. The only roadblock I can see is maybe the 5 pin regulator.
Will the Meanwell PT-45B powersupply match up with the Proteus ribbon connector's voltages or will I need to rearrange the wires going into the molex connector thingy? I'm new to servicing gear, but eager and long overdue to be starting. Thanks for the excellent video!
The connections on the motherboard from pin 1 of CN1 (side of wire with indexing stripe) are:
1 +5V DC
2 +5V DC
3 Ground (earth), digital
4 Ground (earth), analog
5 -12V DC
6 +12V DC
According to Meanwell's sheet www.meanwell.com/productPdf.aspx?i=660#2 they use a slightly different order. Their connector is configured:
1 +12V DC
2 +5V DC
3 +5V DC
4 Ground (earth), digital
5 Ground (earth), analog
6 -12V DC
That means that the wire to pin 6 would be disconnected then all the others would shift over 1 place then the old pin 6 wire would have to stretch over to pin 1.
On the plus side, the Meanwell PT-45B is rated for greater current loads on the +5V & +12V circuits than the Skynet SNP-9031 so hopefully those portions on the power supply will be less stressed and it will be capable of supplying all the current your E-MU could need.
@@thomasbland6428 Trying to repair my Proteus 1 and this absolutley is the case. I have a working Emu Procussion and I opened it up to confirm the pin voltages. I bought the Meanwell PT-45B PS and the pin voltages are offset by one as you say. I took the #6 wire, +12v off and put it on pin 1, moved the connector over by one and voila. The Proteus lives. The only thing is the screw holes don't line up. The board is a little too big. Bought it from Jameco.com
@@kurtlarson9713 Hi Kurt - I just got a Proteus 2/Orchestral yesterday which "kind of" works, but the audio output is choppy and the volume knob doesn't seem to do anything. Have you experienced issues like this? I'm wondering if simply replacing the power supply has a chance of fixing it, but I don't know enough about electronics to have any idea.
@@magicgiraffesoundworks4533 I had the same kind of thing in my Proteus, turned out to be a cracked solder joint on the volume pot. I would remelt the solder joints of the volume pot on the circuit board and see if that works out.
@@kurtlarson9713 How do you move the pins one by one?
I have a "no voltage" power supply, in general what known causes are there. Thanks
Hello. My name is Wes Bowers, I have 2 EMU Proteus /1 Modules that I have purchase used and I was wondering if you would be interested in me hiring you to repair them. ! have a bad Volume Pot and the other has a non working Data Wheel. Thanks for your time.
Do you know where I might find a replacement LCD for a Proteus 1?
Ebay...get mine all the time there.
Also try Syntaur in Texas
I am trying to find someone who can actually repair a proteus module, It needs 4 capacitors to do with the earthing in the Manchester area UK
I can't seem to find the "D" versions but there are plenty of B and C versions. Will they work also?
There is no D version of the Meanwell PT-45 series, only the A, B, & C. Perhaps you misheard.
Only the B can be used. The A & C output incorrect voltages and could damage your unit.
How do you remove the cover?
Did you find out how to open the proteus? I too am looking and I did not understand how.
@@VERDENALS Same here....
@@ytnsanw you use a flat blade screwdriver and put it in the slots on the top of the unit's plastic cover. I started with the two slots at the back where the midi and audio connections are made, and used my fingers to keep the first tab apart as i pried. Then I got the second tab at the rear loose, then started to work on the 4 tabs on the left and right of the top cover. I worked it very gently because the plastic cover has become brittle with age, but with a little bit of delicate coaxing, was able to get the top cover off without breaking anything.