Making model I.C. engine valves. Silver soldered fabrication
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- čas přidán 10. 09. 2024
- How I make valves for my model engines using ground stainless steel bar. They are made in 2 parts and silver soldered together. This is easier than machining from a solid bar.
I started around 8 AM (here, Argentina) and until right now i not stopped of watch your videos, you make a great work!!!
Better because we learn something better than TV :) Thats remember me my Technical High School Times!!
Hi. I have watched all of your video's, several times and I'm gobsmacked every time. Fantastic. Please keep them coming.
I must say sir, you are a genius and an engineering miracle. I've thoroughly enjoyed your videos because I've been stuck to the screen watching them. I know what my next hobby is! I want to build a small hit and miss now! but smaller than yours.
well hello my friend here we go. had to watch the video again as i have reached the stage to produce and install the valves. slowly learning from all of you guyS (myfordboy, mrpete222, keith fenner, john r )and a few others,can only thenk you for your excellent instruction. regards
who needs TV when we got you myfordboy !
Thank you for uploading, its helping me at the university...with all that theory, im glad to see it done for real.
I have just used this method to make the valves for my Aermotor, it is so easy and faf free. Excellent work! I need to find a good way of making springs now....
I might have some suitable valve springs Nick.
Greetings from India. You are a very inspiring person. You have mastered your craft. There is so much passion in your work.
@titankron Thanks for the comment. The work is held in the vice which has been set parallel to the X axis. There is a V groove in the vice to ensure the work is parallel to the table. Hole is perfectly square and central .
Better than TV? Glad you like them.
Thanks for explaining.You have a lot of very interesting videos.I see them moore than once..Thanks for your help for a lot peopel..
Kind regards Peter,Netherlands
Ooh, I still love that hack saw machine. I kept seeing that in other videos.
Making it in two pieces means a ready ground and accurate size stem can be used in the form of a stainless rod. No need to make my own spring as a suitable size one was easily available.
@Britishman00 The advantage of making it with 2 pieces is that gorund stock is used for the valve stem which is accuratly sized ,needing no machining. On a model engine the strength is not such an issue as it would be in a high performance engine.
Yes the smaller one would work just fine. Making them this way gives you a gound valvestem aread acuratly sized. I am using a Sievert propane torch.
Как всегда великолепен!
Stumbled across your videos a few hours ago and I'm still watching.
I soo want to buy a lathe now :D
I can't understand how some folks take the time to watch something like this and then mark is at "dislike". What's to dislike? Maybe they just got here by accident and have no idea what's going on?
@dogdove Truth is, I never sharpen the workshop ones. The worn ones get used for jobs around the house or get thrown away.
@mikruson This tenacity flux can be mostly scrached off with a knife. Most of it on this job gets machined away. I have some sulphuric acid for removing easyflow 2 flux.
@zapwatt My mill does not have a quill.It is a fixed head. The lever on the side is not a down feed but the speed control.
Very very interesting, and your filming was perfect in that it showed well each step. Many tube videos don't do that part very well. Obviously you have been doing this a long time, it'd take me all day just to get the valve angle correct.
@valic000 This is not for a diesel. Its a petrol hit and miss although I run on butane gas. I have simular engines shown in my other videos. The only do about 400rpm. They do not run hot you can easily hold the hot engine with your hands. I don't even bother to put water in the water cooled ones.
@valic000 The washing up liquid is a wetting agent. The flux will adhere to the metal better.
Another good video, Super Duper.
Great job! Thanks for sharing.
really nice work you're doing... wish i had the machines you got.. !
@dougspair easy flow 2 is 50% silver 620/630 deg C melting range. It is cadmium bearing so I don't belive its easily available now, health and safety. Cadmium free versions are available.
It was a matter of tightening each jaw in in turn. My chuck gives a different reading depending on which jaw I tighten. I have since got a collet chuck so it's easier now.
Nice example to make a valve in a lathe! thanks
It's an unbranded neat oil I picked up at a show. Similar to Rocol .
excelentes herramientas disfruto mucho con los videos felicitaciones, saludos desde chile
This looks neat! thanks for sharing
Stem= shaft. Stainless steel rod is supplied ready ground to size. There are only two parts, stem and head.
@572334 I have had no problems with the parts seperating in use. It would probably be better to make a one peice valve if it were a high performance engine though.
I am enjoying your videos even though I don't do or have any plans to build models, but I want a lathe and no chinese stuff, a myford like yours looks interesting and I've been looking around the net for info on them, or perhaps something one step up in size...
And to have the intuition and skill to do that it takes years of Practice - So yes it would be Skill!
beautiful !!!
Excelentes vídeos!!! Un gran trabajo.
@chevyvictor My 3 jaw is not that accurate. Tightening it with a different position gives different results.
good good work!!!
I am not measuring durring th the rough cuts only when I get closer to size.
Beauty!
Sir, I have been a fan for some time now and always enjoy your videos. I have a question for you: why did I see you use the knee instead of the quill when you were pecking?
@FireDropTechnologies i wouldnt think so this look like an inlet valve for a hit'n'miss engine so it shouldnt get to many hard hits and silver solder has a very high melting point. also if both pieces of steel were stainless they should expand at about the same rate
@dogdove I know this sounds like some sort of ad, but honestly I bought one of those "Drill Doctor" drill sharpeners at Lowes on a whim about a year ago. It really does work for drills from about 1/16 up to a 1/2 inch.
There is a bit of skill (not much) in using it, I have taken my 1/4" bits that I break or wear out and sharpened them, and gone right to drillilng mild steel.
Nice job.Ofcourse a model diesel engine has a low rpm and as diesels get not really hot,it wil hold,sure about that. But in therms of model diesels, I collect also them,have moore than 100,the oldest is 1947,but there run of a mix of petroleum,castor oil and aether.
Do you run this engine also on this mix? Or is it a real diesel with a pomp and injector?
Regards peter
It is a nicely done peice of work,
But as I asked, Would it hold up?
or is this mostly a display peice
prosses?
Very good idea but why not use a stainless bolt and turn the head and shaft down to size and polish up the shaft, i find this simple and effective but hey whatever works for you.
Hi there, i have watched a lot of your videos and would like to thank you for posting them up. I have learned a lot from your tips and tricks. There is one thing i do not understand with this video though. Would it not have been easier to mill some solid rod to the shape required instead of milling two pieces and attaching them together? Surely one piece is stronger than two pieces that have a potential fracture point? Ofcourse i am no expert, barely an amatuer in fact.
That's brilliant, thank you :)
@HomeDistiller
Thank's makes sence and awnsers my question.
could you perhaps make a video on how to properly sharpen a drill bit? It would be much appreciated.
Thanks for reply my coment.I see,its a low rpm running engine,so it wil hold. I notice,you put a drop of washing liquid in the flux mix.What is the reason behind it?.It makes the PH lower,so maeby it flows better? Big compliment on al your work. I wil also try ones a smal casting. I need a smal Model diesel crank case.I like to try to make my first IC engine. Specialy the web strengthing in the crankcase is almost imposibel to doe from bar stock..Casting is the only way..
Kind regards Peter
top video mate ... you just got another subscriber
To me it seams the solder would bang loose when the valve heats up and expands against the valve seat, pulling the stem from the face, I should think?
bravo!! nice done
Great Video Man, Thanks for the tips. :-).
easyflo #2? I'm in the west USA, is that something like stay-silv #45 or 56% silver. It looks like a hard wire.
No, its the diameter that is ground,
Good job I wish to own like this. Lathe
You are amazing
I am not familiar with HHO valves but if stainless steel is a suitable material I don't see why it could not be used.
My friend just found you. Great parctical work and good results. As I am about to embark on my first modelling adventure your videos will be logged in my favorites for reference.
One question? The valve was made in two pieces to save machining, but have you had them separate, the valve head from the stem? regards
Hi there; thanks a lot for your excellent instructional videos! I wondered about the cross-drilled hole - you didn't seem to make any attempt to make sure the piece was parallel to the mill, making the hole out of square. Is it just my eyes, or is the holding pin's squareness to the work not an issue?
Also, regarding the use of a detergent as a wetting agent in the solder flux; I believe that its job is to make the flux easier to mix with water, and not adherence to the metal.
Can you use other words? The stem is the "shaft" the long part, right?
What is ready ground? The first part you made being aligned with the "shaft" axis?
Sure can't argue with those results! Would you use the same method for a smaller valve, say a 3/8" face and a 5/32" stem? Also, what kind of torch are you using for silver soldering? Chuck
Hi, why didn't you made a sigle piece? Did you made the spring too? If yes send me the link pls
Are into forging as well? Because valves supposed to be one continuous fiber made from forging (for high loads on a real engine, I guess brazing holds for model engines).
Anyway, are you fond of blacksmithing?
I have more videos showing this (27 in all!) Search for metal casting at home part 1 (to27)
Thanks
Hi, thank you for the video, one question how did you manage to set the rod running true in a 3 jaw chuck? (5:27) time frame.
also by making it in 2 pieces he reduce cutting time&material by ..pff.. 70% ?? ... very skillful work..
I have a question thought.. can u use this tech,(silver solderering ,2 pieces) to make inox valves for HHO projects?
Another nice instructional vid, thanks. What kind of cutting fluid is that being used on the lathe? Thanks in advance!
How are the castings produced??
Ground to size means the length you want?
i see you are using your hack saw machine!
Wasn't preferential the stem be perpendicular to the valve superior face than the stem have exact diameter you want. Because you made the valve which needs to be much more accurate in the lathe, but you didn't made the whole piece in the lathe.
Why cant you make that valve from a single piece, without soldering?
You can make it in one piece but doing it this way avoids having to turn the stem. ground stainless steel is used for the stem which is accurately sized.
perfect work!
How do you remove melted flux?
Looks about the same size as a Briggs & Stratton mower engine valve.
5:31 why did you use a DTI in a 3jaw? lol
Why not just Weld and temper the valve, with OXY ACETY torch?
why cant this guy be my next door neighbor?
1980
Can you send me the plans
Which plans?
@@myfordboy the valve and valve guide plans
@@user-xm8ud3nn6m They are part of a model I sell castings for so not available to you.
@@myfordboy and how much money for the pieces
All my designs are here myfordboy.blogspot.com
Sorcery!!
snarman