Honestly, i couldn't disagree more about Ass Savers. they are super easy to fit (unlike most other mud guards) last indefinitely and do a great job of stopping that dreaded soggy bottom!! I use them on all my bikes that don't have proper mud guards.
Yes i Agree with you, they are great to throw on when it starts raining just before your summer ride and you have no mudguards on just to keep the rain of your rear.
Agree here they are great and I have full metal guards, full plastic guards in the winter , nothing beats throwing an ass saver on to avoid the shitty arse look
yup i've used them for the first time this winter and have to say they did the job. do you get wet .... eh if it rains and it's heavy enough regardless you're gonna get wet! the main purpose of htese is to dampen or limit not to keep you 100% dry!
Can’t help but think the Ass Saver was added at the end as comment bait 😅 In my experience they make a huge difference - from not filling your jersey pockets with mud riding off-road, to avoiding a damp, uncomfortable chamois. Full mudguards are the way to go, but Ass Savers are brilliant when you’re caught out
@@davidarthur I especially can't believe the waste of *TIME* bit, I put mine on years ago, took me 1 minute, I leave it on all year round cos it's so light and inconspicuous, and ever since it protects me from 85% of the "diarrhea butt triangle"
@@davidarthur Most of my rides are on gravel and the $11Ass Saver makes a difference. I've tried other fenders but they don't work well and swing all over the place. Trust me, when it's really cold (I live in MN) it makes a difference.
I think an ass saver is the best 10€ you can spend on a bike if you ride it all year. If you do group rides, you might wanna protect the rider behind you with a proper fender, but for riding solo it's perfect. If it's wet, you got weather proof clothes anyway
For me, the ass-saver does its job for little money, It avoid getting home with the lower part of your back wet when it has rained and there is water on the road,
A Titanium bolt is great for the top cap on the stem. Every bike I've ever owned rusted out the bolt in less than a year. I don't understand why they're not made with a stainless steel bolt. I now replace them with a titanium bolt. No more corrosion. No need to screw them on tightly.
@@donwinstonspot on. Alloy certainly does corrode. I've had the bottom bracket of an alloy bike corrode all the way through due to salty sweat getting under the paint. You have to keep an eagle eye on the frame for blistering, and clean up and repaint any eruptions pronto. In most other respects, I love alloy. It's fairly cheap and resistant to damage.
Stainless steel resists rust but I know from experience, sweat soaks thru the protective oxidative layer stainless steel forms and rust eventually sets in on the cap bolt. Titanium can literally last for a hundred years in the ocean without any effects. Your concentrated sweat, at least twenty years before it starts to oxidize. My stem cap bolts are titanium and I have sitting on my workbench, a new box of titanium caliper pad bolts for a set of Magura brakes. Don't give a fig about weight just corrosion
Also have to disagree about the ass saver. I bought it for damp/ wet roads after it rains and it gets the job done. Not completely dry but I'm still satisfied. If you're riding in the rain then yes get mudguards.
Theres a certain point when riding in the rain that mudguards become a waste of time too haha. At that point you wear water proof trousers and a rain proof coat and have done. And at that point you don't need mudguards.
I have a Lumos helmet that I use for commuting. I agree the turn signal feature isn’t worth anything, but the helmet provides not just front/rear lighting, but side lighting. Prior to getting the helmet, my biggest close calls were cars that didn’t see me when coming from the side (as opposed to in front or behind).
Titanium bolts are great! Not just the weight but has already been mentioned for corrosion resistance. The headset top cap is a prime example. A lot of people buy them because they are also are available in pretty colours so a relatively cheap way of customising your bike. Stronger than alloy as well!
The headset top cap is the main example not to use titanium. That bolt is not under stress at all, Aluminum is the way to go for the headset top cap, lighter and cheaper than Ti. Note this only applies to the headset top bolt, the majority of the bolt in the bike are under stress so you should go for Steel or Ti in general, the headset top cap is an exception :)
I must say that I disagree on the Ass-Savers. I use them all the time and while they aren't as effective as full-length mudguards, they do deflect the worst of the water/mud spray. Also, the Hövding inflatable helmet is super popular here in Sweden, especially among commuters and "regular" cyclists. The helmet is not made for road or mountain biking though, which the manufacturer also states clearly. It does deploy accidentally when hitting curbs hard etc, but everyone I know that has had this happen has been reimbursed by the manufacturer at no or very low cost. Also, the helmet has been around for a few years now, allowing the technology to mature and I don't think that these incidents are that common these days. Both products are Swedish, so of course, I'm biased here :)
in many cases that airbag is just for people who are too vain to wear a normal helmet. In which case....still a win, if they are wearing this instead of no helmet.
You should not ride in wet weather to begin with. For your own safety and the safety of motorists. Unless it is your only means of transportation to work.
@@williamko4751 Where I live (northern west coast of North America), if you don't ride in wet weather, you pretty much don't ride at all. If you are properly equipped and have an ounce of common sense, riding in the rain is no more dangerous than driving a car in the rain, probably less so.
I disagree with more than half of these, and I think the video intends to. Ass savers are great to keep the very spot clean that makes riding wet conditions feel so obnoxious. I ride heavy mud in winter, where fenders will just clog up the wheels and won't save my front or my bike from getting dirty anyways. The ass saver keeps the lower back dry'ish and thus the ride fun. Same with touring during 9 rainy days in Norway, where it allowed me to ride without the rain-proof pants once the rain stopped and the road remained wet. Friends witnessed a crash where an airbag saved the womens head and even doubled as a "matress" until the ambulance arrived. Helmets are the better idea of course, but many people can't/won't wear a helmet on their commute depending on hairstyle. And speaking as a rider and driver, helmets with lights are incredibly easy to spot in night traffic compared to rear lights, just due to the height and movement alone. Opposing such features with the sole agument that it doesn't fit their primary purpose is just lazy. There are reasons cars got radios, trains got internet or dog collars got lights now. And regarding titanium bolts: Those who spend money on those definitely shouldn't cheap out on a torque wrench. And you'll usually strip aluminum cage bolts easier than titanium ones.
Ass-Savers are not for rain, they are to keep your bib and jersey (especially if they are white) clean on a morning ride with damp roads. Seconds to install/remove before you leave home.
Unbelievable. I've had my arse saver for about two years now. When I ordered a custom frame last year they asked me if I wanted fixtures for mudguards. I said, hell no; I've got an arse saver!
The reason one can let lights on a helmet slide is lights as such are not "smart" (in the connected, IoT kind of way). They're just lights, and lights are great, safety first. It's when you pointlessly have to control stuff via a smartphone app that it becomes "smart" crap.
Ass saver is amazing! I use the wide version on my mtb on wet rides in the woods. I went on a very muddy night ride with this, and it definitely saved my ass from getting muddy. It works fantastically.
Titanium bolts can be very affordable if you buy them from Aliexpress, in various metric threads and head shapes. Just get the longest ones and cut them to size. If you can manage all this, then I suppose your are technical enough to know how to not strip them and use the proper grease/anti-sieze/thread-locker.
@@TimothyTakemoto I'd like to think so but I'm not very entertaining. Those who know what to do would have already done every suggestion and those that don't will just tell me to have a poo. I don't need lots of people telling me to have a poo 😂
@@kpizzle1985 Poo is one way...but I will look into getting a pack of bolts. There are a LOT of suppliers. If you have a recommend bolt pack even I would be interested. M6 seems appropriate.
@@TimothyTakemoto I've pretty much replaced every bolt on my bike, for aesthetics and corrosion resistance as well as weight reasons. Generally I get whatever comes up first on AliExpress, usually Wanyifa. If I want something a bit quicker I'll buy from RaceTi direct or from their eBay store. I've been using AliExpress bolts for years and they're solid.
I think you should rethink about smart helmets, please. My partner has hearing issues and have smart helmets with an intercom has made cycling more enjoyable for both of us. Also improved and safety as well, as we can warn each other of traffic, hazards and directions.
I actually thought that was a cool idea. Plus like you said safety as well. I can see less guys riding side by side in the streets and so forth with these because they can just chat to each other. Sure there's always out phones and a blue tooth but not everyone wants to use that.
@@jennibristol7720 I just have two dumb helmets 😅 but I do like the ideas in the smart helmets since I also ride a lot around town and use my bike to go shopping.
I use the Portland Design Works front Origami fender. Unless it's raining, it sits in my bike bag. If it is raining, this little piece of plastic clips on and works brilliantly at reducing spray and grit coming up from the front wheel and hitting my chin and face. This actually makes a huge difference and makes long rides in the rain viable. The Portland Design Works rear Origami fender seems to mount lower down than the Ass Saver. I can't comment on the efficacy of the rear Origami as I use a rear carrier with a central solid plate that fulfills the same function. Thanks for your thoughtful post. Marketers are always on us about what we "need." What we really need is to just ride.
I agree with all of them, althoughI would have expected something a little braver by calling out many of the major bike manufacturers and try to steer us away from the quite frankly, ridiculously priced models out there today that simply aren’t worth the money. In other words a much more realistic suite of products to avoid, and ones that impact a greater range of people!
Thank you so very much indeed for doing a frank video about bs /unnecessary products, (vs yet another industry-sponsored bike review). Btw, helmet lights are absolutely much-needed /beneficial safety accessories. With the ubiquity of small, efficient, and lightweight rechargeable blinky lights, it is ridiculously easy to accessorize just about any helmet with such options. I use a Moon Lights "Ring" model as a potent rear blinky on top of my Kali helmet, (velcro works beautifully to secure it) and a Fenix EDC front micro-light, (clipped to visor). I also bring spares in my tool caddy for long night rides. The combined weight of these tiny, (yet highly effective), lights is under 45g - absolutely featherweight!
I have to disagree about the smart helmet, I have a couple of them and they have in fact saved me from accident on several occasions so far driving upstate NY roads. I have asked motorists if I am more visible with the helmet and the overall consensus has been yes.
Agree completely except the AssSaver - I've used one on occasions where it's not wet enough to warrant full length mudguards. For me they've worked well and stop me getting a wet behind, which in turn means not getting saddle sore. Personally I think they are a good investment for in between conditions.
I ride with a 1st gen Lumos helmet which has worked very well. The turn signal buttons are a bit big and hard to mount on the bars. So I have left them off most of the time. I have stated before let's change to stainless steel bolts where possible. No more rusty bolts!!
I've got a Mudhugger FR on the front to protect the fork and stop some mud flicking forwards then up at me. Another FR on the back to protect the frame bearings and shock and an AssSaver style guard to stop too much mud getting right on my seat and rubbing it into my shorts and have them wet out beyond what the material can cope with. It's not about staying clean, it's about not getting mud in the eye or too much mud to hinder/harm the bike. Works a treat.
Ass Savers are not pointless or useless. They make a great extension for proper fenders (mudguards). Carefully drill 2 smaill holes near the bottom of a full fender and zip tie them in place. Not needed for proper fenders like the Portland Design Works Full Metal Fenders.
Good points. Shopping for mudguards is crazy difficult and you are right about the small plastic clip-ons. I found some that were appropriate for mountain biking and easy to to modify into quick release, plus they have soft rubber extensions that flex easily when your foot catches the lip during bike mounting. Now I can install them in one minute on those occasions that I really need the shields. RBRL Bike Front/Rear Fender Mudguards for $25
I do use indicators on the bike. Mine are a series of arrows similar to road works. There are three times that they are useful a) at night when my hands are not easily visible. b) at close range when I am needing my hands to control the bike or I am just sitting waiting at traffic lights and c) when riding with LOTS of riders. I can get a tail of riders following me. I can easily signal to them that I am pulling out around slower riders, or a pothole, or am about to pull back after passing. This leaves my hands free for riding, increasing our average speed and decreasing the speed up/ slow down effects.
I mean that was a bad point you made about the bang on the airbag being too loud vs. Concussion/TBI. Would you choose your hearing vs death or even permanent movement dysfunction?
I agree with most of these except the indicators/turn signals (I'm in the U.S.) as well as a headlight and brake light. I ride a 26" folding E Bike to and from work daily 1.2 mile round trip. I have a set that actually look like something a motorcycle would use. They have saved me from being hit countless times. As far as mud guards are concerned, I need to upgrade from what my E Bike came with (They look similar to what a dirt bike uses) to full fenders front and rear. My bike has dual suspension though.
I use clip on mudguards in the winter but in the summer and autumn you cant beat an ass saver for a quick solution to the occasional wet ride when the faff of attaching mudguards is too much for the odd ride. Also the best thing for clip on guards is to leave them on for the season rather than keep taking them on and off as that can damage the paint.
Do you ride a bike? Ass-savers are fantastic. I have full fenders on a winter bike and on a summer bike, but always keep the AS handy for the other rigs. If you want to spend significant time on your bike you have to be comfortable (ish).
Valid points. But made by a guy who justified a painted titanium bottle cage on his bike, and suggested to the community that it's a worthwhile investment. Then says spend your money elsewhere than ceramic bearings, ti bolts and helmets with indicators. Hmmm🤔. Love the channel and content though... Keep em coming
Ass savers work well for me on both on road and off. I still get wet as does everyone in rain but the difference being far less grit and mud between saddle and ass. Ti bolts usage in stems make for a smarter less rusty look over time which is more pleasing to my eye. Im my experience i find that giving advice on what to buy is best kept to when folk ask for advice. If city commuters chose to buy a blinking helmet then im sure they will be happy to find such products on the market. Each to ones own really.
I agree with all on your list except the Ass Saver. It's great when you've waited for the rain to stop to head out on a ride and the roads are still wet. In that situation you would remain dry except for a wet line up your back.
If you want proper mudguards get Mudhugger or SKS Germany. I have a enduro bike, Geometron G1 use Mudhugger rear large and front race on the fork. It works well, proper coverage. Dropper post is almost clean, same with back and butt, saddle.
I feel you may have shortchanged the titanium bolt weight saving advantage. While the bolts themselves weigh only slightly less just think how much weight will be saved by emptying out your wallet to buy the bolts! If time is money is true it"s also true that money is weight!
Titanium bolts fail catastrophically. Titanium is great until it isn’t. As for larger pulleys. . . They result in less chain bending. . . a source of power loss.
I have Winglites indicators in the ends of my handlebars. They are excellent, especially at night. They are further apart than typical motorcycle direction indicators, so, when read alongside riding lights, do give a clear indication of an intended turn. I also have a brake light.
Disagree with you about tech in helmet. I and my riding partner used Sena R1 helmets on a ride across the U.S. Being able to listen to music (without interfering with my ability to hear traffic) made the miles go much easier. The intercom came in handy dozens of times when we became separated. The ability to get turn-by-turn directions from my navigation was fantastic especially when going through cities.
I agree with some, but I definitely see the point in fall detection in helmets. Unlike fall detection in a Garmin or whatever, a helmet does feel when something really is wrong.
Ti bolts on the stem and WB cages are a must on all my bikes for corrosion resistance not weight. I have super corrosive sweat and normal bolts dont last long at all, headsets dont last that long for me either.
I love having full coverage fenders. Sure the bike doesn't look quite as slick with them, but they work awesome for not only keeping you clean, but the rest of the bike too. With the snow melting now, there's a lot of standing water and mud around. It's amazing how well they work. There's only a few mild splatter marks on the sides of the chainstay, after my last ride
I dunno, I have a Tunebug attached to my helmet for music and notifications. I can hear what's going on around me and still enjoy tunes as I bike. I do have indicators on my touring bicycle. They do help when at intersections during the night. I have had drivers pull up next to me after a turn and comment on the turn indicator. It may depend on environment or the style of indicator. I'm not a roadbike cyclist so these gadgets may not be what you guys are looking for, but as a tourer and a snow cyclist, these things work well.
I had full mudguards on a commuter bike ages ago; and when I say full, I really mean full: :-) The front one went down to about 4-inches off the ground and was flared at the bottom, and the rear was below the bottom bracket at the front and covered the back. They worked great until I got up to about 35 km/h, at which point the road spray would hit the guards so hard that plenty would spray onto me. LOL
Lights on helmet are great IMO. What you fail to consider is that basically ALL frame/handlebar mounted lights are below the cars' "rooftop line" for cars approaching perpendicularly. The light on the helmet on the other hand can be rotated, with your head, so if you see a car approaching, and have the feeling they might not spot you right away, you can just point the helmet at them.
Ceramic bearings are nowhere near more durable. The extra hardness of the ceramic balls in a bearing wears a track in the steel races, causing them to wear out faster and develop play. They're a complete scam for any normal person who has to pay to take care of their bike. Only reasons pros use them is because they literally ride on freshly serviced, or brand new bearings every time they race, and they do give an ever so slight reduction in friction when they are new and free of any dirt and debris. Most of the friction in a bearing is from the dust seals anyways, the balls inside the bearing only account for about 3% of the total friction produced in a bearing. Quality steel bearings will always be better for the regular cyclist.
when riding a 'real' bike (recumbent trike) those two mudguards up front are really handy. With a tadpole trike, whenever one is turning; there's no bike frame along the axis of the tyres to absorb/deflect all that flung road mud from hitting you in the face...
Ceramic loose balls on an old 1970’s Cup and cone hub 7 speed freewheel massive movement increase. So yes they do make a difference even on loose ball bearing hubs.
Personally I think ceramic bearings and titanium bolts are good products. Titanium have really good corrosion resistance and that's why I bought some on aliexpress after my bottle cage bolt got really rusty. Ceramic pulley wheels are dumb, but in where I live a set of Fulcrum Racing Zero , which is equipped with ceramic bearings, have a fair price and can be easily found in 2nd hand market. Your points in this video is valid but these product should not be 100% avoided, maybe just avoid 90% of it.
If you happen to buy a bike that has ceramic bearings, especially second hand, there's not a lot to worry about. Although I'd never recommend anyone purchase them to add to their current bike.
10000rpm spindles and above are what ceramic bearings are designed for, they are far more resistant to thermal growth and therefore seizing. Their place on a bicycle is utterly pointless, the difference in friction at 90rpm is almost immeasurable.
@@alistairmartin13 See, there's the thing. I've got several model plane engines that run nitro/alcohol fuel (very hydrophilic). I finally got tired of replacing rusty steel ball bearings constantly and tried some ceramic parts. I'm not sure if the races are stainless or what, but I have yet to have a ceramic bearing corrode yet and I've been running them in several of my motors for years now.
@@cratecruncher6687 maybe just a higher quality steel? All the ceramics i’ve bought for spindles are SKF, NSK etc who will use the correct grade stainless for maximum performance. I can well imagine the bike industry doesn’t buy the best bearings, especially for the lower/mid range bikes they assemble, margins will send them down the cheap and good enough to last the warranty period route
Agree with most of these David. There are places to use Ti bolts,like top cap.Should always be used with Ti prep. Most places I prefer 316 grade SS. Anything with a thread should be greased.Biopace and other oval chainrings have been marketed every so many years,don't waste your money imho. I have not tried the ass saver. Crud catcher (mtb) and others were popular in the 90's,I made my own.For road full mudguards are best. Ceramic bearings ; see Hambini & Peak Torque. Best to use high quality steel with good seals from SKF/TNL One thing you did not mention was bikes like the new Cannondale Synapse that has built in tech (smart tech? marketing tech !). I for one like to choose accessories, on price and performance.
Ceramic bearings are the pinnacle of marginal gains, HOWEVER, good quality bearings do offer close to ceramic performance for much lower price. Definitely recommended higher end bearings when possible. Not only for reductions in friction, but also for serviceability.
Titanium has a use in MTB. Not for the weight saving though. Some of us ride in corrosive areas, like near the sea. Titanium is tougher than Aluminium yet not as reactive as steel. On forks, Enduro Guard style mudguards are really good, again this is an MTB thing. For £10 you can stop loads of mud from getting on your stanchions saving your from a costly service (£250 at my local) or needing a new CSU . Sure you'll need to book a proper service at some point but those little guards do prolong that wait and save a fair bit of cash.
I changed almost every bolt to TI on my BMC alpinechallenge commuter. Not to save few grams rather due to corrosion. Rusted bolts annoys me. Spending few $$ and ride happy totally worth it. Didn't bother doing same thing on my 5K road bike coz it never stays outside in cold under rain or snow for long.
Cycling is the perfect application for Ti bolts. Not for weight saving (although there is a tiny amount), but for corrosion resistance. Also, if you buy quality bolts they have a rolled thread and are uber strong. I swap them from part to part and bike to bike as the bikes evolve, and probably offer a good ROI in that respect.
Neon yellow helmet adds visibility! Passive safety! I love my Lumos Ultra. The high mounted lights feel extra visible to drivers (and I dont use the indicator function, which kills the battery). And the bigger Ass Saver fender does the job - attaches to the seat tube and runs through the seat stays.
Ceramic bearings are legit; ran Swiss Bones bearings on a longboard i used to own. You run the lube the manufacturer makes for them and follow proper cleaning procedures and you'll have bearings that will get you in more trouble than you can imagine bombing hills; they are super smooth! Pro longboard racers and amateur riders alike run them nigh exclusively and a well-loved set of ceramic bearings will last a Long time. As per the value/utility of ceramic bearings on bikes/components, I'd think based on my experiences with them on my old longboard, I'd assume by logical/theoretical extension that said bearings, encased in a more protective housing than what a 90mm polyurethane wheel would provide, would be a legit upgrade if one's wallet was permissive. [I could be wrong too, since the physics and loads of what a bike frame/wheels impose on bearings do differ from what ceramic skate bearings deal with encased in a shell and surrounded by generous amounts of polyurethane but, logic/theory dictates advantage as long as you do proper periodical preventive maintenance...] Lastly, ceramics can take more heat and abrasion (ceramic brake pads for high-end sports cars) and can take more heat (e.g. the tiles on the underside of the Space Shuttle and experimental ceramic-blocked internal combustion engines in the past).
Seriously great point about ceramic bearings - with grease what is the point of fooling yourself? Regarding TI screws, I just bought some for my Moots, because they don't RUST. Nothing is worse than looking down on your stem at four rusty screws holding the carbon handlebar on your beautiful TI bike. But weight savings? Please. Just pour a little water out of your bottle and save the money. Would love to Dave talk about proprietary cranks, integrated stems, and the like. I've read so little about how these components from manufacturers compare to what is on most bikes from SRAM, ENVE, etc.
Cycle indicators are actually safer, one can’t put their hand out on a roundabout in time and without putting oneself at greater risk, try placing your right hand out then swap and place left hand out as you signal your exit you just end up becoming unbalanced as you swap hands quickly and sometimes just can’t swap quick enough Recommend to always have two hands on the handle bar at all times
I disagree about indicator lights on bikes, although I do agree about indicator lights on a helmet. the problem with indicator lights on a helmet is that you turn your head a lot, and this could make the signal unclear... I guess if it were standardized, for example if it were legally required, it would be better because then motorist would know what to expect. and it would be more visible on the helmet versus down on the saddle post. all this said having stereo headlamps mounted to the sides of your helmet would be the best. I use a single headlamp in the center front which is great most of the time, when it's not so great is in the fog because the beam passes between your eyes and the fog and basically lights the fog in front of my eyes. the lamp I use is petzl 320 actik Core. I used to use their Reactik model which Auto dims and brightens depending on how fast you're going and whether there's on-coming vehicles. this was great except for the battery couldn't be swapped out for a full one so for a long trips you could run out of battery... the Core version doesn't have the reactive lighting, but I can take along as many batteries as I want to carry and you can even use off the shelf AAA batteries if you're going cross country and you've burned through your spares with no place to recharge them via USB. the actual best lighting option would be to have two on the helmet and two on the bar, this way you're always lighting where you're looking, AND where your bike is going. you only have light on the bar then you can't look ahead on a trail, shine your light conspicuously at the driver approaching an intersection from the side, keep an eye on that dog that's in front of the house you're passing. similarly if you only have a light on your helmet then if you're keeping an eye on that dog you won't be able to see the pothole that your wheel is approaching. although if I can't have both I would rather have the light on the helmet instead of on the bar. in terms of general helmet lighting, my current Bell helmet has a three mode tail light built on at the back. the button is the center of the light, it's hard to press when it's on your head and there's no indication when you're wearing it which mode that it's in or even if it's on the only way to know is to take it off and look. however this is the optimum placement for motorist visibility. between the headlamp and the flashing tail light the only other thing that I would add is small LEDs and reflective dots/markings around the rim that would help cue drivers to where you're actually looking in the dark. the front and rear lights help with that but only if somebody is directly in front or behind you not so much from the side. along the same topic I can't recommend enough the 3M spoke reflectors. I think they cost like 10 bucks on Amazon get 36 to a package which I split between both wheels. I don't put them on every spoke but I do space them evenly, I'll lose one or two occasionally usually during the winter, and I'll just re space them if I don't have any left to replace them with. it's the same reflective material they make the safety vests out of, so after a while it wears & gets dirty... but even so they last a really long time and they make your bike stand out like beacons in the night to motorists approaching an intersection from the side. I'm not sure how they fare aerodynamically but they are cylindrical shape and they're on your spokes weight wise they're practically non-existent. they're super easy to install you just snap it on to the spoke if you wanted to really reduce your chances of losing them you can make a collar out of tape, just don't think you'll be clever by covering the whole thing in clear tape because it ruins the reflectivity of it.
to counter your anecdotal evidence, I had a great run with regular metal bearings. Even if ceramic ones had alonger lifespan, you still need to service the bike at least once a year to regrease etc. IMO it doesn't save enough labour to justify the extra cost
The Smart Helmets maybe not much of use for road cycling, gravel or MTB rides. But these things are designed for city commuter riding or those delivery guys.
I'm thinking about putting my oval chainring back on as i got my best times using the oval big ring. The biggest joke is the vadar. Who the hell around a city needs to be constantly reminded that a vehicle is behind and it doesn't change anything.
The early models of Hövding airbags could go off unintended while "armed" if you put them down a bit too heavy handed, but afaik that's mostly been fixed with later models. They're very common amongst commuters in Copenhagen, and have definitely saved more than a few lives.
The Hövding may be expensive, but it is excellent. I have worn one for over a year and it has never gone off falsely despite rough cycle paths and cobbles. I suspect the number of false triggers and problems with it is rather small.
The relative hardness of material affects wear and tear, so unless the bearing races are also ceramic (and then you'd have a brittle bearing posing new problems), ceramic ball bearings will more quickly wear the races they are in, especially when the pressure is uneven (bottom bracket because torque isn't uniform for the entire 360 degrees). As for ass savers, worked well until it killed the Di2 battery in my seat post. When I removed the battery, there was a lot of sand and mud above it near the seat clamp, and some further investigation show when riding in rain and mud the ass saver was great at catching the spray and channelling along under the seat and spraying the clamp from all different directions, so there was a lot more opportunity for crap to get in there than normally in bad weather and when riding through muddy puddles.
I found Asssaver mudgurds quite handy for UK wheather which changeable. If I definitly know that its a rainy day I use my clip on SKS mudgurds. Otherwise asssaver is always there as it weigh nothing.
you dont get titanium bolts for the weight savings, you get them because they are the best at not rusting, the top cap absolutely needs to be titanium, i would also do titanium bolts for bottlecage holders.
Ceramic bearings have an advantage over steel because they won't rust. I started using ceramic in my model airplane engines 10 years ago because the alcohol fuel attracts moisture and I got tired of replacing bearings every season. A ceramic bearing doesn't cost much more than a metal bearing. The bike manufacturers are just ripping people off. Buy them from the source.
As a commuter bike rider, who rides a two wheeled recumbent Ebike. The helmets with lights are pretty useless, considering how low I sit. Plus I have more lights on my bike, then some cars. As my Uncle used to say, Keep it Simple. I wont use the second s. The more you complicate something. The more prone it is to stop working when you need it.
I agree with you on everything you showed, everything. Including that little piece of crap hanging off the saddle. With that said and maybe this is where there may be confusion, the Ass Saver Full length is a gem. I have the FRR or FENDOR BENDOR. Awesome product. Attaches to the seat tube and is close to the wheel, giving full protection. It is inexpensive and pretty cool besides working. It folds to where you need it and is nothing to to put on. I just rode home from work, I live in Chicago and no worries. I was in the bike retail business for over thirty years and have used and sold many a fender. I was a messenger and this is the best and easiest fender. Now, if the comments are from the ones training and all they need is to keep their "bum hole" dry or a weight weenie so be it. I have lived cycling and have seen just about everything. From racing to commuting(I do not drive) and there is a ton of crap nowadays. My Canyon Grail with the Ass Saver(FRR) in the rear and the MuckyNutz up front can get me to and from work with pleasure in all conditions.
I totally disagree on indicators. Motorcycles indicators are for the most part not placed any wider than it is possible to place them on a bicycle, yet they work perfectly well. Not everyone is a pro bicycle racer or spandex weenie. For a commuter bicycle, particularly for a grocery getter in marginal conditions, being able to indicate your intentions without removing your hand from the grips is crucial. Handlebar ends on a flat bar commuter bike are more than wide enough for indicators to be seen front and rear, and rear indicators can be mounted to the rear rack that any serious transportation bike is going to have affixed. The real problem is that manufacturers just don't care to make integrated systems that operate seamlessly. Again, speaking as a motorcyclist, indicators are a well-sorted technology. They can be easily applied to bicycles, and they should be, particularly for e-bikes, where a large battery is already part of the equation.
Biopace rings - I remember them! Some of those indicators are just dangerous like the bar-end ones where they won't be seen from too many angles. Who wants to wear a helmet smarter than they are? Not me! I have succumbed to Ti bolts for their looks - the best way to save weight on a bike is to both stop drinking alcohol & diet! The jury is out on mud guards - I do use bolt-on under saddle ones that are quite a bit longer so do work to a reasonable degree. Full mud guards don't need to be the same width as the tyres though - maybe more with knobblies but not slicker ones where spray flies off centrally.
Disagree about Ass saver. I never travel without one. Why would you pour cold water down your ass crack if you can avoid it? Also, getting wet isn’t the same as getting hammered with road silt. In addition, if you go for a spin on a non-fender hybrid and it starts raining, you won’t soil your regular trousers. The other stuff they can keep in the store. I’m keeping my collection of that absolutely brilliant invention.
I'll be joining the horde of comments disagreeing about the ass saver. No doubt full mudguards are better, but that little piece of plastic does a good enough job at keeping a wet streak off my rear end when the roads are wet. I made mine from a $1 folder from the convivence store and it does the job well enough for 50 times less than a decent set of full fenders. Plus its lighter if you care about weight. Something is better than nothing.
I’m a gram weenie but instead of titanium I look for carbon fiber parts IF they are lighter than alloy or titanium which they often aren’t. I don’t have any titanium bolts on any of my bikes but I have other titanium parts. As far as mud guards go, I have the full Monty like you showed on my Kona Sutra touring bike. However, the smaller but wider mud guards for mountain bikes 🚲 are rather useful. They do protect your bum and keep a lot of gunk off the pedals and chainrings unless you’re in major mud. Then nothing works. I often ride my mountain bikes on the roads and paved trails so I get benefits from the mud guards but I wouldn’t put them on my racing road bikes. Nice video. Good cover of the pointless turning and brake lights. Drivers can’t see them. 👍☮️🌞🌟🚵♀️🚴
I like the Ass Saver. It may not provide as much protection as a full mudguard but it's a simple solution. It's way easier to just pop it on when you need to and it does the trick of keeping me dry enough. Might not help the rider behind me but it does it's job in a pinch.
I agree with all of them except the ass saver. You're correct that they are not as effective as full mud guards but I've found they do offer a little protection when the road is a little damp or you have to ride through some puddles on the road caused by runoff. Thanks for an informative vid.
Honestly, i couldn't disagree more about Ass Savers. they are super easy to fit (unlike most other mud guards) last indefinitely and do a great job of stopping that dreaded soggy bottom!! I use them on all my bikes that don't have proper mud guards.
Yes i Agree with you, they are great to throw on when it starts raining just before your summer ride and you have no mudguards on just to keep the rain of your rear.
Agree here they are great and I have full metal guards, full plastic guards in the winter , nothing beats throwing an ass saver on to avoid the shitty arse look
yup i've used them for the first time this winter and have to say they did the job. do you get wet .... eh if it rains and it's heavy enough regardless you're gonna get wet! the main purpose of htese is to dampen or limit not to keep you 100% dry!
Problem is they don't protect your saddlebag. To be fair, they don't say they will. 🙂
Yes to Assavers
Can’t help but think the Ass Saver was added at the end as comment bait 😅 In my experience they make a huge difference - from not filling your jersey pockets with mud riding off-road, to avoiding a damp, uncomfortable chamois. Full mudguards are the way to go, but Ass Savers are brilliant when you’re caught out
No I genuinely believe they’re a waste of time from personal experience 😜
@@davidarthur I especially can't believe the waste of *TIME* bit, I put mine on years ago, took me 1 minute, I leave it on all year round cos it's so light and inconspicuous, and ever since it protects me from 85% of the "diarrhea butt triangle"
@@davidarthur Most of my rides are on gravel and the $11Ass Saver makes a difference. I've tried other fenders but they don't work well and swing all over the place. Trust me, when it's really cold (I live in MN) it makes a difference.
I think an ass saver is the best 10€ you can spend on a bike if you ride it all year. If you do group rides, you might wanna protect the rider behind you with a proper fender, but for riding solo it's perfect. If it's wet, you got weather proof clothes anyway
Sometimes the User is the Problem...
Disagree about Ass Savers. They’re better than nothing when caught in downpour for a short ride.
I agree with you Michael, a small penis is better than a micro penis! We need to stand up for each other Michael, you're not alone.
I use a Klickfix seat post bag. More coverage and I have space for things like a rain jacket.
For me, the ass-saver does its job for little money, It avoid getting home with the lower part of your back wet when it has rained and there is water on the road,
A Titanium bolt is great for the top cap on the stem. Every bike I've ever owned rusted out the bolt in less than a year. I don't understand why they're not made with a stainless steel bolt. I now replace them with a titanium bolt. No more corrosion. No need to screw them on tightly.
That’s a great point
Use aluminum bolts for the top cap and water bottle cages. Lighter, cheaper and less seizure prone.
@@mellis4726 It's just one bolt. Sweat causes aluminum to corrode too. Must be because of the salt.
@@donwinstonspot on. Alloy certainly does corrode. I've had the bottom bracket of an alloy bike corrode all the way through due to salty sweat getting under the paint. You have to keep an eagle eye on the frame for blistering, and clean up and repaint any eruptions pronto.
In most other respects, I love alloy. It's fairly cheap and resistant to damage.
Stainless steel resists rust but I know from experience, sweat soaks thru the protective oxidative layer stainless steel forms and rust eventually sets in on the cap bolt. Titanium can literally last for a hundred years in the ocean without any effects. Your concentrated sweat, at least twenty years before it starts to oxidize. My stem cap bolts are titanium and I have sitting on my workbench, a new box of titanium caliper pad bolts for a set of Magura brakes. Don't give a fig about weight just corrosion
Also have to disagree about the ass saver. I bought it for damp/ wet roads after it rains and it gets the job done. Not completely dry but I'm still satisfied. If you're riding in the rain then yes get mudguards.
Theres a certain point when riding in the rain that mudguards become a waste of time too haha. At that point you wear water proof trousers and a rain proof coat and have done. And at that point you don't need mudguards.
I have a Lumos helmet that I use for commuting. I agree the turn signal feature isn’t worth anything, but the helmet provides not just front/rear lighting, but side lighting. Prior to getting the helmet, my biggest close calls were cars that didn’t see me when coming from the side (as opposed to in front or behind).
I seen a rider, with a blinking left turn light while driving. Gave me the opportunity, which was declined, to yield to the rider.
Titanium bolts are great!
Not just the weight but has already been mentioned for corrosion resistance.
The headset top cap is a prime example.
A lot of people buy them because they are also are available in pretty colours so a relatively cheap way of customising your bike.
Stronger than alloy as well!
Interesting. My 2005 Giant TCR and 2013 Avanti Quantum 2.0 stem bolts are looking quite rusty. I was tossing up which type of bolts to buy.....
The headset top cap is the main example not to use titanium. That bolt is not under stress at all, Aluminum is the way to go for the headset top cap, lighter and cheaper than Ti. Note this only applies to the headset top bolt, the majority of the bolt in the bike are under stress so you should go for Steel or Ti in general, the headset top cap is an exception :)
@@LainOTN Yeah, same goes for the bolts for the bottle cage.
Not had issues with titanium bolts, I only have those that came with my Formula Cura 4.
I must say that I disagree on the Ass-Savers. I use them all the time and while they aren't as effective as full-length mudguards, they do deflect the worst of the water/mud spray. Also, the Hövding inflatable helmet is super popular here in Sweden, especially among commuters and "regular" cyclists. The helmet is not made for road or mountain biking though, which the manufacturer also states clearly. It does deploy accidentally when hitting curbs hard etc, but everyone I know that has had this happen has been reimbursed by the manufacturer at no or very low cost. Also, the helmet has been around for a few years now, allowing the technology to mature and I don't think that these incidents are that common these days. Both products are Swedish, so of course, I'm biased here :)
in many cases that airbag is just for people who are too vain to wear a normal helmet. In which case....still a win, if they are wearing this instead of no helmet.
You should not ride in wet weather to begin with. For your own safety and the safety of motorists. Unless it is your only means of transportation to work.
@@einundsiebenziger5488 you are still better off with a neck protector than if that's your worry.
@@williamko4751 Where I live (northern west coast of North America), if you don't ride in wet weather, you pretty much don't ride at all. If you are properly equipped and have an ounce of common sense, riding in the rain is no more dangerous than driving a car in the rain, probably less so.
I disagree with more than half of these, and I think the video intends to. Ass savers are great to keep the very spot clean that makes riding wet conditions feel so obnoxious. I ride heavy mud in winter, where fenders will just clog up the wheels and won't save my front or my bike from getting dirty anyways. The ass saver keeps the lower back dry'ish and thus the ride fun. Same with touring during 9 rainy days in Norway, where it allowed me to ride without the rain-proof pants once the rain stopped and the road remained wet.
Friends witnessed a crash where an airbag saved the womens head and even doubled as a "matress" until the ambulance arrived. Helmets are the better idea of course, but many people can't/won't wear a helmet on their commute depending on hairstyle. And speaking as a rider and driver, helmets with lights are incredibly easy to spot in night traffic compared to rear lights, just due to the height and movement alone. Opposing such features with the sole agument that it doesn't fit their primary purpose is just lazy. There are reasons cars got radios, trains got internet or dog collars got lights now. And regarding titanium bolts: Those who spend money on those definitely shouldn't cheap out on a torque wrench. And you'll usually strip aluminum cage bolts easier than titanium ones.
Ass-Savers are not for rain, they are to keep your bib and jersey (especially if they are white) clean on a morning ride with damp roads. Seconds to install/remove before you leave home.
I love my ass saver….I ride a gravel rail trail daily, and it works fine….but if you venture into more muddy areas, they are not as effective.
Unbelievable. I've had my arse saver for about two years now. When I ordered a custom frame last year they asked me if I wanted fixtures for mudguards. I said, hell no; I've got an arse saver!
It does what's it's supposed to, but it's no substitute for proper mudguards.
The reason one can let lights on a helmet slide is lights as such are not "smart" (in the connected, IoT kind of way). They're just lights, and lights are great, safety first. It's when you pointlessly have to control stuff via a smartphone app that it becomes "smart" crap.
Ass saver is amazing! I use the wide version on my mtb on wet rides in the woods. I went on a very muddy night ride with this, and it definitely saved my ass from getting muddy. It works fantastically.
Titanium bolts can be very affordable if you buy them from Aliexpress, in various metric threads and head shapes. Just get the longest ones and cut them to size. If you can manage all this, then I suppose your are technical enough to know how to not strip them and use the proper grease/anti-sieze/thread-locker.
I think Dave got this one wrong, it's attention to detail like this that's the reason for my bike being nearly a kilo lighter than the 'stock version'
@@kpizzle1985 If you made a video about how to make your bike nearly a kg lighter, I think people would watch it.
@@TimothyTakemoto I'd like to think so but I'm not very entertaining. Those who know what to do would have already done every suggestion and those that don't will just tell me to have a poo. I don't need lots of people telling me to have a poo 😂
@@kpizzle1985 Poo is one way...but I will look into getting a pack of bolts. There are a LOT of suppliers. If you have a recommend bolt pack even I would be interested. M6 seems appropriate.
@@TimothyTakemoto I've pretty much replaced every bolt on my bike, for aesthetics and corrosion resistance as well as weight reasons. Generally I get whatever comes up first on AliExpress, usually Wanyifa. If I want something a bit quicker I'll buy from RaceTi direct or from their eBay store. I've been using AliExpress bolts for years and they're solid.
I think you should rethink about smart helmets, please. My partner has hearing issues and have smart helmets with an intercom has made cycling more enjoyable for both of us. Also improved and safety as well, as we can warn each other of traffic, hazards and directions.
I actually thought that was a cool idea. Plus like you said safety as well. I can see less guys riding side by side in the streets and so forth with these because they can just chat to each other. Sure there's always out phones and a blue tooth but not everyone wants to use that.
@@buckroger6456 we have the Sena R1 helmets, they have now updated them to the Sena R1 Evo.
@@jennibristol7720 I just have two dumb helmets 😅 but I do like the ideas in the smart helmets since I also ride a lot around town and use my bike to go shopping.
@@buckroger6456 the Sena helmets are great if there are two of you.
Great video, David. Whether one agrees or disagrees, I enjoy and appreciate your candor.
I use the Portland Design Works front Origami fender. Unless it's raining, it sits in my bike bag. If it is raining, this little piece of plastic clips on and works brilliantly at reducing spray and grit coming up from the front wheel and hitting my chin and face. This actually makes a huge difference and makes long rides in the rain viable. The Portland Design Works rear Origami fender seems to mount lower down than the Ass Saver. I can't comment on the efficacy of the rear Origami as I use a rear carrier with a central solid plate that fulfills the same function. Thanks for your thoughtful post. Marketers are always on us about what we "need." What we really need is to just ride.
I agree with all of them, althoughI would have expected something a little braver by calling out many of the major bike manufacturers and try to steer us away from the quite frankly, ridiculously priced models out there today that simply aren’t worth the money. In other words a much more realistic suite of products to avoid, and ones that impact a greater range of people!
Thank you so very much indeed for doing a frank video about bs /unnecessary products, (vs yet another industry-sponsored bike review). Btw, helmet lights are absolutely much-needed /beneficial safety accessories. With the ubiquity of small, efficient, and lightweight rechargeable blinky lights, it is ridiculously easy to accessorize just about any helmet with such options. I use a Moon Lights "Ring" model as a potent rear blinky on top of my Kali helmet, (velcro works beautifully to secure it) and a Fenix EDC front micro-light, (clipped to visor). I also bring spares in my tool caddy for long night rides. The combined weight of these tiny, (yet highly effective), lights is under 45g - absolutely featherweight!
I have to disagree about the smart helmet, I have a couple of them and they have in fact saved me from accident on several occasions so far driving upstate NY roads. I have asked motorists if I am more visible with the helmet and the overall consensus has been yes.
Agree completely except the AssSaver - I've used one on occasions where it's not wet enough to warrant full length mudguards. For me they've worked well and stop me getting a wet behind, which in turn means not getting saddle sore. Personally I think they are a good investment for in between conditions.
I also have one of the small rear under-saddle mudguards. Works ok for me, glad I bought it.
I ride with a 1st gen Lumos helmet which has worked very well. The turn signal buttons are a bit big and hard to mount on the bars. So I have left them off most of the time.
I have stated before let's change to stainless steel bolts where possible. No more rusty bolts!!
I've got a Mudhugger FR on the front to protect the fork and stop some mud flicking forwards then up at me. Another FR on the back to protect the frame bearings and shock and an AssSaver style guard to stop too much mud getting right on my seat and rubbing it into my shorts and have them wet out beyond what the material can cope with.
It's not about staying clean, it's about not getting mud in the eye or too much mud to hinder/harm the bike. Works a treat.
straight to the point and not alot of waffling like other channels! Kudos!
Thanks a mil for spending a few minutes telling us what NOT to buy, when the whole industry is dedicated to the opposite. 👍
Ass Savers are not pointless or useless. They make a great extension for proper fenders (mudguards). Carefully drill 2 smaill holes near the bottom of a full fender and zip tie them in place. Not needed for proper fenders like the Portland Design Works Full Metal Fenders.
Good points. Shopping for mudguards is crazy difficult and you are right about the small plastic clip-ons. I found some that were appropriate for mountain biking and easy to to modify into quick release, plus they have soft rubber extensions that flex easily when your foot catches the lip during bike mounting. Now I can install them in one minute on those occasions that I really need the shields. RBRL Bike Front/Rear Fender Mudguards for $25
I do use indicators on the bike. Mine are a series of arrows similar to road works. There are three times that they are useful a) at night when my hands are not easily visible. b) at close range when I am needing my hands to control the bike or I am just sitting waiting at traffic lights and c) when riding with LOTS of riders. I can get a tail of riders following me. I can easily signal to them that I am pulling out around slower riders, or a pothole, or am about to pull back after passing. This leaves my hands free for riding, increasing our average speed and decreasing the speed up/ slow down effects.
I mean that was a bad point you made about the bang on the airbag being too loud vs. Concussion/TBI. Would you choose your hearing vs death or even permanent movement dysfunction?
I agree with most of these except the indicators/turn signals (I'm in the U.S.) as well as a headlight and brake light. I ride a 26" folding E Bike to and from work daily 1.2 mile round trip. I have a set that actually look like something a motorcycle would use. They have saved me from being hit countless times. As far as mud guards are concerned, I need to upgrade from what my E Bike came with (They look similar to what a dirt bike uses) to full fenders front and rear. My bike has dual suspension though.
I use clip on mudguards in the winter but in the summer and autumn you cant beat an ass saver for a quick solution to the occasional wet ride when the faff of attaching mudguards is too much for the odd ride. Also the best thing for clip on guards is to leave them on for the season rather than keep taking them on and off as that can damage the paint.
Do you ride a bike? Ass-savers are fantastic. I have full fenders on a winter bike and on a summer bike, but always keep the AS handy for the other rigs. If you want to spend significant time on your bike you have to be comfortable (ish).
Valid points. But made by a guy who justified a painted titanium bottle cage on his bike, and suggested to the community that it's a worthwhile investment. Then says spend your money elsewhere than ceramic bearings, ti bolts and helmets with indicators. Hmmm🤔. Love the channel and content though... Keep em coming
Ass savers work well for me on both on road and off. I still get wet as does everyone in rain but the difference being far less grit and mud between saddle and ass. Ti bolts usage in stems make for a smarter less rusty look over time which is more pleasing to my eye. Im my experience i find that giving advice on what to buy is best kept to when folk ask for advice. If city commuters chose to buy a blinking helmet then im sure they will be happy to find such products on the market. Each to ones own really.
I agree with all on your list except the Ass Saver. It's great when you've waited for the rain to stop to head out on a ride and the roads are still wet. In that situation you would remain dry except for a wet line up your back.
Im a commuter. A Lumos helmut with embedded flashing lights was the best kit I've ever bought.
If you want proper mudguards get Mudhugger or SKS Germany. I have a enduro bike, Geometron G1 use Mudhugger rear large and front race on the fork. It works well, proper coverage. Dropper post is almost clean, same with back and butt, saddle.
I feel you may have shortchanged the titanium bolt weight saving advantage. While the bolts themselves weigh only slightly less just think how much weight will be saved by emptying out your wallet to buy the bolts! If time is money is true it"s also true that money is weight!
Haha that’s brilliant. I’ll do a video in how best to lighten your wallet next shall I? 😛
You win, take my like!
The best weight saving I’ve seen is losing a few kilos of personal body weight 😉
Aw come on, titanium screws rock! Same with the Ass Saver. The rest of your list I agree. You didn't mention oversized pulleys/cages.
Titanium bolts fail catastrophically. Titanium is great until it isn’t. As for larger pulleys. . . They result in less chain bending. . . a source of power loss.
Disagree with the Ass saver. I agree you mentioned that product so people like me comment on your video. Anything to help the algorithm 😆
No I genuinely believe they’re a waste of time from personal experience 😜
I have Winglites indicators in the ends of my handlebars. They are excellent, especially at night. They are further apart than typical motorcycle direction indicators, so, when read alongside riding lights, do give a clear indication of an intended turn.
I also have a brake light.
Disagree with you about tech in helmet. I and my riding partner used Sena R1 helmets on a ride across the U.S. Being able to listen to music (without interfering with my ability to hear traffic) made the miles go much easier. The intercom came in handy dozens of times when we became separated. The ability to get turn-by-turn directions from my navigation was fantastic especially when going through cities.
I agree with some, but I definitely see the point in fall detection in helmets. Unlike fall detection in a Garmin or whatever, a helmet does feel when something really is wrong.
I do titanium bolts for the cool factor not the weight savings and they don't rust is a plus as well.
Ti bolts on the stem and WB cages are a must on all my bikes for corrosion resistance not weight. I have super corrosive sweat and normal bolts dont last long at all, headsets dont last that long for me either.
I love having full coverage fenders. Sure the bike doesn't look quite as slick with them, but they work awesome for not only keeping you clean, but the rest of the bike too. With the snow melting now, there's a lot of standing water and mud around. It's amazing how well they work. There's only a few mild splatter marks on the sides of the chainstay, after my last ride
I dunno, I have a Tunebug attached to my helmet for music and notifications. I can hear what's going on around me and still enjoy tunes as I bike. I do have indicators on my touring bicycle. They do help when at intersections during the night. I have had drivers pull up next to me after a turn and comment on the turn indicator. It may depend on environment or the style of indicator. I'm not a roadbike cyclist so these gadgets may not be what you guys are looking for, but as a tourer and a snow cyclist, these things work well.
I had full mudguards on a commuter bike ages ago; and when I say full, I really mean full: :-) The front one went down to about 4-inches off the ground and was flared at the bottom, and the rear was below the bottom bracket at the front and covered the back. They worked great until I got up to about 35 km/h, at which point the road spray would hit the guards so hard that plenty would spray onto me. LOL
Lights on helmet are great IMO.
What you fail to consider is that basically ALL frame/handlebar mounted lights are below the cars' "rooftop line" for cars approaching perpendicularly. The light on the helmet on the other hand can be rotated, with your head, so if you see a car approaching, and have the feeling they might not spot you right away, you can just point the helmet at them.
I should add for clarity, that I mean the roofs of parked cars here.
Ceramic bearings are nowhere near more durable. The extra hardness of the ceramic balls in a bearing wears a track in the steel races, causing them to wear out faster and develop play. They're a complete scam for any normal person who has to pay to take care of their bike. Only reasons pros use them is because they literally ride on freshly serviced, or brand new bearings every time they race, and they do give an ever so slight reduction in friction when they are new and free of any dirt and debris. Most of the friction in a bearing is from the dust seals anyways, the balls inside the bearing only account for about 3% of the total friction produced in a bearing. Quality steel bearings will always be better for the regular cyclist.
when riding a 'real' bike (recumbent trike) those two mudguards up front are really handy. With a tadpole trike, whenever one is turning; there's no bike frame along the axis of the tyres to absorb/deflect all that flung road mud from hitting you in the face...
Ceramic loose balls on an old 1970’s Cup and cone hub 7 speed freewheel massive movement increase. So yes they do make a difference even on loose ball bearing hubs.
Personally I think ceramic bearings and titanium bolts are good products. Titanium have really good corrosion resistance and that's why I bought some on aliexpress after my bottle cage bolt got really rusty. Ceramic pulley wheels are dumb, but in where I live a set of Fulcrum Racing Zero , which is equipped with ceramic bearings, have a fair price and can be easily found in 2nd hand market.
Your points in this video is valid but these product should not be 100% avoided, maybe just avoid 90% of it.
spot on with the mudguards. full fenders ftw!
I trust you, David!
If you happen to buy a bike that has ceramic bearings, especially second hand, there's not a lot to worry about. Although I'd never recommend anyone purchase them to add to their current bike.
10000rpm spindles and above are what ceramic bearings are designed for, they are far more resistant to thermal growth and therefore seizing. Their place on a bicycle is utterly pointless, the difference in friction at 90rpm is almost immeasurable.
But they don't rust.
@@cratecruncher6687 yes they do, only the balls are ceramic. The inner and outer race are still made of steel
@@alistairmartin13 See, there's the thing. I've got several model plane engines that run nitro/alcohol fuel (very hydrophilic). I finally got tired of replacing rusty steel ball bearings constantly and tried some ceramic parts. I'm not sure if the races are stainless or what, but I have yet to have a ceramic bearing corrode yet and I've been running them in several of my motors for years now.
@@cratecruncher6687 maybe just a higher quality steel? All the ceramics i’ve bought for spindles are SKF, NSK etc who will use the correct grade stainless for maximum performance. I can well imagine the bike industry doesn’t buy the best bearings, especially for the lower/mid range bikes they assemble, margins will send them down the cheap and good enough to last the warranty period route
Agree with most of these David. There are places to use Ti bolts,like top cap.Should always be used with Ti prep. Most places I prefer 316 grade SS. Anything with a thread should be greased.Biopace and other oval chainrings have been marketed every so many years,don't waste your money imho. I have not tried the ass saver. Crud catcher (mtb) and others were popular in the 90's,I made my own.For road full mudguards are best. Ceramic bearings ; see Hambini & Peak Torque. Best to use high quality steel with good seals from SKF/TNL One thing you did not mention was bikes like the new Cannondale Synapse that has built in tech (smart tech? marketing tech !). I for one like to choose accessories, on price and performance.
Ceramic bearings are the pinnacle of marginal gains, HOWEVER, good quality bearings do offer close to ceramic performance for much lower price. Definitely recommended higher end bearings when possible. Not only for reductions in friction, but also for serviceability.
Titanium has a use in MTB. Not for the weight saving though. Some of us ride in corrosive areas, like near the sea. Titanium is tougher than Aluminium yet not as reactive as steel.
On forks, Enduro Guard style mudguards are really good, again this is an MTB thing. For £10 you can stop loads of mud from getting on your stanchions saving your from a costly service (£250 at my local) or needing a new CSU . Sure you'll need to book a proper service at some point but those little guards do prolong that wait and save a fair bit of cash.
I changed almost every bolt to TI on my BMC alpinechallenge commuter. Not to save few grams rather due to corrosion. Rusted bolts annoys me. Spending few $$ and ride happy totally worth it. Didn't bother doing same thing on my 5K road bike coz it never stays outside in cold under rain or snow for long.
Thanks Arthur for these valuable information!! Can't wait for your review for Scott 22 Addict Gravel 20!
Hi David, please can you add Fly 2 and Fly 12 Cycliq lights , they are expensive and do not work and the customer services are rubbish .
Cycling is the perfect application for Ti bolts. Not for weight saving (although there is a tiny amount), but for corrosion resistance. Also, if you buy quality bolts they have a rolled thread and are uber strong. I swap them from part to part and bike to bike as the bikes evolve, and probably offer a good ROI in that respect.
Neon yellow helmet adds visibility! Passive safety! I love my Lumos Ultra. The high mounted lights feel extra visible to drivers (and I dont use the indicator function, which kills the battery). And the bigger Ass Saver fender does the job - attaches to the seat tube and runs through the seat stays.
Ceramic bearings are legit; ran Swiss Bones bearings on a longboard i used to own. You run the lube the manufacturer makes for them and follow proper cleaning procedures and you'll have bearings that will get you in more trouble than you can imagine bombing hills; they are super smooth! Pro longboard racers and amateur riders alike run them nigh exclusively and a well-loved set of ceramic bearings will last a Long time.
As per the value/utility of ceramic bearings on bikes/components, I'd think based on my experiences with them on my old longboard, I'd assume by logical/theoretical extension that said bearings, encased in a more protective housing than what a 90mm polyurethane wheel would provide, would be a legit upgrade if one's wallet was permissive.
[I could be wrong too, since the physics and loads of what a bike frame/wheels impose on bearings do differ from what ceramic skate bearings deal with encased in a shell and surrounded by generous amounts of polyurethane but, logic/theory dictates advantage as long as you do proper periodical preventive maintenance...]
Lastly, ceramics can take more heat and abrasion (ceramic brake pads for high-end sports cars) and can take more heat (e.g. the tiles on the underside of the Space Shuttle and experimental ceramic-blocked internal combustion engines in the past).
Seriously great point about ceramic bearings - with grease what is the point of fooling yourself? Regarding TI screws, I just bought some for my Moots, because they don't RUST. Nothing is worse than looking down on your stem at four rusty screws holding the carbon handlebar on your beautiful TI bike. But weight savings? Please. Just pour a little water out of your bottle and save the money. Would love to Dave talk about proprietary cranks, integrated stems, and the like. I've read so little about how these components from manufacturers compare to what is on most bikes from SRAM, ENVE, etc.
Placebo effect of ceramic bearings work wonders for your perceived performance. Just use Hambini for bearings
Cycle indicators are actually safer, one can’t put their hand out on a roundabout in time and without putting oneself at greater risk, try placing your right hand out then swap and place left hand out as you signal your exit you just end up becoming unbalanced as you swap hands quickly and sometimes just can’t swap quick enough
Recommend to always have two hands on the handle bar at all times
Thanks for the even-keeled analysis and sound advice.
I disagree about indicator lights on bikes, although I do agree about indicator lights on a helmet. the problem with indicator lights on a helmet is that you turn your head a lot, and this could make the signal unclear... I guess if it were standardized, for example if it were legally required, it would be better because then motorist would know what to expect. and it would be more visible on the helmet versus down on the saddle post.
all this said having stereo headlamps mounted to the sides of your helmet would be the best. I use a single headlamp in the center front which is great most of the time, when it's not so great is in the fog because the beam passes between your eyes and the fog and basically lights the fog in front of my eyes. the lamp I use is petzl 320 actik Core. I used to use their Reactik model which Auto dims and brightens depending on how fast you're going and whether there's on-coming vehicles. this was great except for the battery couldn't be swapped out for a full one so for a long trips you could run out of battery... the Core version doesn't have the reactive lighting, but I can take along as many batteries as I want to carry and you can even use off the shelf AAA batteries if you're going cross country and you've burned through your spares with no place to recharge them via USB. the actual best lighting option would be to have two on the helmet and two on the bar, this way you're always lighting where you're looking, AND where your bike is going. you only have light on the bar then you can't look ahead on a trail, shine your light conspicuously at the driver approaching an intersection from the side, keep an eye on that dog that's in front of the house you're passing. similarly if you only have a light on your helmet then if you're keeping an eye on that dog you won't be able to see the pothole that your wheel is approaching. although if I can't have both I would rather have the light on the helmet instead of on the bar.
in terms of general helmet lighting, my current Bell helmet has a three mode tail light built on at the back. the button is the center of the light, it's hard to press when it's on your head and there's no indication when you're wearing it which mode that it's in or even if it's on the only way to know is to take it off and look. however this is the optimum placement for motorist visibility. between the headlamp and the flashing tail light the only other thing that I would add is small LEDs and reflective dots/markings around the rim that would help cue drivers to where you're actually looking in the dark. the front and rear lights help with that but only if somebody is directly in front or behind you not so much from the side.
along the same topic I can't recommend enough the 3M spoke reflectors. I think they cost like 10 bucks on Amazon get 36 to a package which I split between both wheels. I don't put them on every spoke but I do space them evenly, I'll lose one or two occasionally usually during the winter, and I'll just re space them if I don't have any left to replace them with. it's the same reflective material they make the safety vests out of, so after a while it wears & gets dirty... but even so they last a really long time and they make your bike stand out like beacons in the night to motorists approaching an intersection from the side. I'm not sure how they fare aerodynamically but they are cylindrical shape and they're on your spokes weight wise they're practically non-existent. they're super easy to install you just snap it on to the spoke if you wanted to really reduce your chances of losing them you can make a collar out of tape, just don't think you'll be clever by covering the whole thing in clear tape because it ruins the reflectivity of it.
Ass saver is excellent particularly if you have a saddle with a central cut out!
I agree in all except on the ceramic bearings as I have had good experience with them in terms of longevity.
to counter your anecdotal evidence, I had a great run with regular metal bearings. Even if ceramic ones had alonger lifespan, you still need to service the bike at least once a year to regrease etc. IMO it doesn't save enough labour to justify the extra cost
The Smart Helmets maybe not much of use for road cycling, gravel or MTB rides. But these things are designed for city commuter riding or those delivery guys.
I'm thinking about putting my oval chainring back on as i got my best times using the oval big ring.
The biggest joke is the vadar. Who the hell around a city needs to be constantly reminded that a vehicle is behind and it doesn't change anything.
Lol I drafted behind a guy on the street with one of those and I kept setting it off. Funny how another cyclist can trigger it as well.
6:00 Quite possibly, the most unintentional hilarious demonstration of the cycling airbag. Bless you, David, for bringing this to our attention!!
The early models of Hövding airbags could go off unintended while "armed" if you put them down a bit too heavy handed, but afaik that's mostly been fixed with later models. They're very common amongst commuters in Copenhagen, and have definitely saved more than a few lives.
I use the fender bender ass saver, mounts on the seat tube and sits way closer to the rear wheel, it works pretty damn well
The Hövding may be expensive, but it is excellent. I have worn one for over a year and it has never gone off falsely despite rough cycle paths and cobbles. I suspect the number of false triggers and problems with it is rather small.
I found here in Australia that a front light on the helmet attracts all the bugs to your face! Leave it on the bars
I am in some agreement with your selection and feel that there are better ways to spend money at a time when it is declining in value.
The relative hardness of material affects wear and tear, so unless the bearing races are also ceramic (and then you'd have a brittle bearing posing new problems), ceramic ball bearings will more quickly wear the races they are in, especially when the pressure is uneven (bottom bracket because torque isn't uniform for the entire 360 degrees).
As for ass savers, worked well until it killed the Di2 battery in my seat post. When I removed the battery, there was a lot of sand and mud above it near the seat clamp, and some further investigation show when riding in rain and mud the ass saver was great at catching the spray and channelling along under the seat and spraying the clamp from all different directions, so there was a lot more opportunity for crap to get in there than normally in bad weather and when riding through muddy puddles.
I found Asssaver mudgurds quite handy for UK wheather which changeable. If I definitly know that its a rainy day I use my clip on SKS mudgurds. Otherwise asssaver is always there as it weigh nothing.
you dont get titanium bolts for the weight savings, you get them because they are the best at not rusting, the top cap absolutely needs to be titanium, i would also do titanium bolts for bottlecage holders.
Ceramic bearings have an advantage over steel because they won't rust. I started using ceramic in my model airplane engines 10 years ago because the alcohol fuel attracts moisture and I got tired of replacing bearings every season. A ceramic bearing doesn't cost much more than a metal bearing. The bike manufacturers are just ripping people off. Buy them from the source.
Great view on Assavers.....Complete crap.
As a commuter bike rider, who rides a two wheeled recumbent Ebike. The helmets with lights are pretty useless, considering how low I sit. Plus I have more lights on my bike, then some cars. As my Uncle used to say, Keep it Simple. I wont use the second s. The more you complicate something. The more prone it is to stop working when you need it.
I agree with you on everything you showed, everything. Including that little piece of crap hanging off the saddle. With that said and maybe this is where there may be confusion, the Ass Saver Full length is a gem. I have the FRR or FENDOR BENDOR. Awesome product. Attaches to the seat tube and is close to the wheel, giving full protection. It is inexpensive and pretty cool besides working. It folds to where you need it and is nothing to to put on. I just rode home from work, I live in Chicago and no worries. I was in the bike retail business for over thirty years and have used and sold many a fender. I was a messenger and this is the best and easiest fender. Now, if the comments are from the ones training and all they need is to keep their "bum hole" dry or a weight weenie so be it. I have lived cycling and have seen just about everything. From racing to commuting(I do not drive) and there is a ton of crap nowadays. My Canyon Grail with the Ass Saver(FRR) in the rear and the MuckyNutz up front can get me to and from work with pleasure in all conditions.
nice! thx David!
also please have a review of the canyon grail on. thx! more power!
I totally disagree on indicators. Motorcycles indicators are for the most part not placed any wider than it is possible to place them on a bicycle, yet they work perfectly well. Not everyone is a pro bicycle racer or spandex weenie. For a commuter bicycle, particularly for a grocery getter in marginal conditions, being able to indicate your intentions without removing your hand from the grips is crucial. Handlebar ends on a flat bar commuter bike are more than wide enough for indicators to be seen front and rear, and rear indicators can be mounted to the rear rack that any serious transportation bike is going to have affixed. The real problem is that manufacturers just don't care to make integrated systems that operate seamlessly. Again, speaking as a motorcyclist, indicators are a well-sorted technology. They can be easily applied to bicycles, and they should be, particularly for e-bikes, where a large battery is already part of the equation.
Biopace rings - I remember them! Some of those indicators are just dangerous like the bar-end ones where they won't be seen from too many angles. Who wants to wear a helmet smarter than they are? Not me! I have succumbed to Ti bolts for their looks - the best way to save weight on a bike is to both stop drinking alcohol & diet!
The jury is out on mud guards - I do use bolt-on under saddle ones that are quite a bit longer so do work to a reasonable degree. Full mud guards don't need to be the same width as the tyres though - maybe more with knobblies but not slicker ones where spray flies off centrally.
Disagree about Ass saver. I never travel without one. Why would you pour cold water down your ass crack if you can avoid it? Also, getting wet isn’t the same as getting hammered with road silt. In addition, if you go for a spin on a non-fender hybrid and it starts raining, you won’t soil your regular trousers. The other stuff they can keep in the store. I’m keeping my collection of that absolutely brilliant invention.
gear indicators are pretty useless to me too. I never ever looked at the indicators while riding.
I'll be joining the horde of comments disagreeing about the ass saver. No doubt full mudguards are better, but that little piece of plastic does a good enough job at keeping a wet streak off my rear end when the roads are wet. I made mine from a $1 folder from the convivence store and it does the job well enough for 50 times less than a decent set of full fenders. Plus its lighter if you care about weight.
Something is better than nothing.
I’m a gram weenie but instead of titanium I look for carbon fiber parts IF they are lighter than alloy or titanium which they often aren’t. I don’t have any titanium bolts on any of my bikes but I have other titanium parts. As far as mud guards go, I have the full Monty like you showed on my Kona Sutra touring bike. However, the smaller but wider mud guards for mountain bikes 🚲 are rather useful. They do protect your bum and keep a lot of gunk off the pedals and chainrings unless you’re in major mud. Then nothing works. I often ride my mountain bikes on the roads and paved trails so I get benefits from the mud guards but I wouldn’t put them on my racing road bikes. Nice video. Good cover of the pointless turning and brake lights. Drivers can’t see them. 👍☮️🌞🌟🚵♀️🚴
I like the Ass Saver. It may not provide as much protection as a full mudguard but it's a simple solution. It's way easier to just pop it on when you need to and it does the trick of keeping me dry enough. Might not help the rider behind me but it does it's job in a pinch.
I agree with all of them except the ass saver. You're correct that they are not as effective as full mud guards but I've found they do offer a little protection when the road is a little damp or you have to ride through some puddles on the road caused by runoff. Thanks for an informative vid.